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Textile science

Macramé craft techniques are gaining popularity again. Designers and craft workshops are teaching macramé skills. Vintage 1970s macramé pieces look modern in contemporary homes. Some crafters recreate vintage patterns while others give macramé a modern twist through simplified shapes and colors. Macramé is now used for plant hangers, wall hangings, lighting, furniture, and accessories. Playing with scale, from small wall hangings to large art installations, also gives macramé a contemporary feel.

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Textile Science
Key Terms Fabrics Fibers Natural Fibers Regenerated Fibers Synthetic Fibers 2 All rights are reserved
Definition of Fibers……. A morphological term for substances characterized by their flexibility, fineness and high ratio of length to cross sectional area. A unit of matter, either natural or manufactured, that forms the basic element of fabrics and other textile structures. It is defined as one of the delicate, hair portions of the tissues of a plant or animal or other substances that are very small in diameter in relation to there length. 3 All rights are reserved
A fiber is characterized by having a length at least 100 times its diameter or width. The term refers to units that can be spun into a yarn or made into a fabric by various methods including weaving, knitting, braiding, felting, and twisting. The essential requirements for fibers to be spun into yarn include a length of at least 5 millimeters, flexibility, cohesiveness, and sufficient strength. Other important properties include elasticity, fineness, uniformity, durability, and luster. 4 All rights are reserved
Types of Fibers and Yarns Fibers are spun into yarn Yarns are uninterrupted threads of textile fibers that are ready to be turned into fabrics Natural Originate from natural sources Plant (cellulosic) or animal (protein) Manufactured, synthetic, or man-made (terms interchangeable) Originate from chemical sources May also be from regenerated or recycled sources 5 All rights are reserved
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Natural Fibers Natural fibers are textile fibers made from plants or animals Cellulosic (from plants) Cotton From cotton plants Flax (linen) From flax stems Jute (Jute stems) Protein (from animals) Silk From cocoons of silkworms Wool From fleece (hair) of sheep or lambs All rights are reserved 8
Characteristics of Natural Fibers Natural fibers are usually: Absorbent Comfortable Cooler to wear Wrinkle more Shrink when washed Important natural fibers are: Cotton Linen Jute Wool Silk 9 All rights are reserved
Cotton Cellulosic fiber From “bolls” (seed pods) growing on bushes “Environmentally friendly” cotton can be grown in a range of colors Main textile products of China, India, Iran, Pakistan and Egypt Made into a wide range of wearing apparel 10 All rights are reserved
Cotton Advantages: Comfortable Absorbent Good color retention Dyes & prints well Washable Strong Drapes well Easy to handle and sew Inexpensive 11 All rights are reserved Disadvantages: Shrinks in hot water Wrinkles easily Weakened by perspiration and sun Burns easily Affected by mildew
Linen (Flax) Flax is the fiber name; linen is the fabric name. World’s oldest textile fiber, dates back to Stone Age 5,000 years. Cellulosic fiber from stem of flax plant. Towels, sheets, and tablecloths are called “linens”. 12 All rights are reserved
Linen (Flax) Advantages: Strong Comfortable Hand-washable or dry-cleanable Absorbent Dyes and prints well Resists dirt and stains Durable Withstands high heat Lint-free 13 All rights are reserved Disadvantages: Wrinkles easily Can be expensive Shrinks Burns easily Affected by mildew and perspiration Ravels Difficult to remove creases Shines if ironed
Jute Jute is a long, shiny vegetable fiber that can be spun into coarse, strong threads. The fibers are off-white to brown, and 1-4 meters (3-12 feet) long. Bangladesh is the world’s largest exporter of jute. Jute is grown in the same land-water area as rice and is a very difficult crop to grow and harvest. Other important jute export countries include India, China, Burma (Myanmar), Pakistan, Nepal and Thailand. 14 All rights are reserved
Advantages Great antistatic properties Low thermal conductivity. Moisture Regain properties is good enough (about 13.75%). 100% Biodegradable; so it is environment friendly fiber like Cotton. Cheap in market. Can be widely used in Agriculture Sector, Textile Sector, Woven Sector, Nonwoven Sector. Jute Fiber can be blended with Natural and Synthetic fibers. 15 Disadvantages •The crease resistance of Jute is very low. •Drape Property is not good enough. •Create Shade effect and becomes yellowish if sunlight is used. •If Jute is wetted it lose it’s strength.
Coir • Is a natural fiber extracted from the husk of coconut • Products such as floor mats, doormats, brushes, mattresses, etc. • Technically, coir is the fibrous material found between the hard, internal shell and the outer coat of a coconut. • Other uses of brown coir (made from ripe coconut) are in upholstery padding, sacking and horticulture. • White coir, harvested from unripe coconuts, is used for making finer brushes, string, rope and fishing nets. 16 All rights are reserved
Hemp Hemp fiber was widely used throughout history. Items ranging from rope, to fabrics, to industrial materials were made from hemp fiber. Hemp was often used to make sail canvas, and the word canvas derives from cannabis. Today, a modest hemp fabric industry exists, and hemp fibers can be used in clothing. Pure hemp has a texture similar to linen. 17 All rights are reserved
Banana Fibers • A native plant of Southeast Asia, banana is now grown extensively in all tropical countries for fruit, fiber or foliage. • These fibers are obtained mainly from stem. • The fibers obtained from the central core are of low.er quality compared to the fibbers obtained mainly from pseudo stem. At present, banana fiber is available in three qualities • It is used to make fancy items like bags, table mats, purses, etc and their latest venture is weaving of banana fiber fabric 18 All rights are reserved
Wool Protein fiber from sheep or lambs Worsted wool is higher quality with long staple fibers (over 2 inches) Natural insulator The term wool can only apply to all animal hair fibers, including the hair of cashmere or angora goat As well as the specialty hair fibers of camel, alpaca, llama, or vicuna 19 All rights are reserved
Wool Advantages: Warm Lightweight Wrinkle-resistant Absorbent Dyes well Comfortable Durable Creases well Easy to tailor Recyclable 20 All rights are reserved Disadvantages: Affected by moths Shrinks with heat and moisture Needs special care, dry cleaning Absorbs orders Scratchy on skin Weakens when wet Harmed by bleach, perspiration
Silk •Silkworms spin cocoons in filaments •Filament is a very long, fine, continuous thread •It can take as many as 500 cocoons to create 1 blouse 21 All rights are reserved
Silk Advantages: Soft Drapes well Dyes and prints well Very strong Lightweight Resists soil, mildew, and moths Comfortable Absorbent 22 All rights are reserved Disadvantages: Expensive Needs special care, dry cleaning Stains with water Yellows with age Weakened by perspiration, sun, soap Attacked by insects, silverfish
Sisal fibers Sisal is a perennial hardy plant, which unlike the other fibers is not a seasonal crop. It can establish and easily grow in all states of India covering sub humid to arid and semiarid regions, which cover major parts of India. 23 All rights are reserved
Pineapple(PINA) Fiber… Piña is a fiber made from the leaves of a pineapple and is commonly used in the Philippines It is sometimes combined with silk or polyester to create a textile fabric. The people there used to extract fibers from pineapple leaves and through hand spinning, made a soft, sheer and a little stiff fabric- the piña fabric. It's regal and exotic! 24 All rights are reserved
Man Made Fibers
Manufactured Fibers Manufactured fibers are fibers created by a manufacturing process of any substance that is not a fiber. Cellulosic- from generated fibrous substance in plants. Non-cellulosic or synthetic- made from petrochemical products. Process Raw materials melted or dissolved to form thick syrup Liquid extruded through spinneret Extruded filaments stretched and hardened into fibers 26 All rights are reserved
Rayon •1st manufactured in 1894 by the American Viscose Company •Used during WW 1 for industrial products •Derived from wood pulp, cotton linters, or vegetable matter •Rayon led to crepe, velvet, and satin fabrics 27
Rayon Advantages: Soft and comfortable Drapes well Durable Highly absorbent Dyes and prints well No static or pilling problems Inexpensive Colorfast May be washable 28 All rights are reserved Disadvantages: Wrinkles easily unless treated Low resiliency Heat sensitive Susceptible to mildew Stretches Weakens when wet Fabric shrinks if washed May need dry cleaning
Acetate Rayon •Developed in early 20th century •Produced in 1924 by the Celanese Corporation •Used to line coats and fabrics Advantages: Luxurious appearance Crisp (texture) soft hand Wide range of colors; dyes and prints well Drapes well Resists shrinkage, moths, and mildew Low moisture absorbency, relatively fast drying No pilling, little static 29 All rights are reserved Disadvantages: Requires dry cleaning Weak Heat sensitive Poor abrasion resistance Dissolved by nail polish remover (acetone)
Lyocell Lyocell is the newest of the cellulosic manufactured fibers Trade name is Tencel® Advantages: Absorbent Biodegradable Strong Resists sunlight, aging, and abrasion Disadvantages Susceptible to mildew Used to Make: Reusable woven materials Fashion fabrics Soft denims shirts 30 All rights are reserved
Bamboo It is a regenerated cellulose fiber. Bamboo fiber is 100% made from bamboo through a high-tech process. Fastest growing plant and takes only 3-4 years to reach maturity 31 All rights are reserved
Advantage: •High strength, health care •Anti- bacteria •Moisture management and •Soft hand feel •Anti-static •Perfect for Sensitive Skin Disadvantage: •Poor spinability •High cost (30 to 40 % higher than cotton) 32 All rights are reserved
Corn Fiber Trade name of this fiber is Ingeo. Ingeo fiber combines the qualities of natural and synthetic fibers in a new way. Strength and resilience are balanced with comfort, softness and drape in textiles. In addition, Ingeo fiber has good moisture management characteristics. This means that Ingeo fiber is ideally suited to fabrics from fashion to furnishings. 33 All rights are reserved
Advantages of Corn fiber Good color fast (i.e. does not fade). Wrinkle free (doesn’t need ironing). Good Resilient - it doesn’t shrink. Doesn’t absorb odors. Has excellent soil release and stain resistance. Has excellent performance when compared to other fibers. Is hypoallergenic. Ingeo has never caused an allergic reaction in independent testing. Has excellent U.V. resistance (better than polyester). 34 All rights are reserved
Milk Fiber Milk Yarn is made from milk protein fibers. To make it, milk is first dewatered, i.e. all the water content is taken out from it and then it is skimmed. New bio-engineering technique is then applied to make a protein spinning fluid. This fluid is suitable for wet spinning process through which the final high-grade textile fiber is made. 35 All rights are reserved
Advantages • Eco-friendly in nature. • It can be considered as Green Product . • More compatible to human skin. • Milk fiber has sanitarian function. • Comfortable, excellent water transportation & air permeability. • Milk Fiber has the advantages natural Fiber combined with synthetic Fiber. Disadvantages of casein fiber • It gets wrinkles easily after washing and needs to be ironed every time. • It should not be washed in machine and that is because it's not a very hard fiber • It has a low durability • Due to abundance of other fabrics like polyester, milk fabric never really became that popular • It is expensive 36 All rights are reserved
Synthetic Fiber
Polyester Synthetic fiber developed in the 1950’s by DuPont Advantages: Strong Crisp, but soft hand Resists stretching and shrinkage Washable or dry-cleanable Quick drying Resilient, resists wrinkles Abrasion resistant Resistant to most chemicals Colorfast Strong, durable Dyes well Disadvantages: Low absorbency Static and pilling problems 38 All rights are reserved
Nylon •Invented in 1938 by DuPont •1st synthetic fiber •Made completely from petrochemicals in an experimental laboratory Advantages: Lightweight Exceptional strength Abrasion resistant Easy to wash Resists shrinkage and wrinkles Resilient, pleat retentive Fast drying, low moisture absorbency Can be pre-colored or dyed in a wide range of colors Resists damage from oil and many chemicals Insulating properties 39 All rights are reserved Disadvantages: Static and pilling Poor resistance to sunlight Low absorbency Picks up oils and dyes in wash Heat sensitive
Acrylic •Manufactured in the 1950’s by DuPont. •Originally used for blankets and sweaters because it resembled wool. •Fiber composed of linear macromolecules having in the chain at least 85% by mass of acrylonitrile repeating units. Advantages: Lightweight, soft, warm, wool-like hand Dyes to bright colors Machine washable, quick drying Resilient, retains shape, resists shrinkage and wrinkles Wool-like, cotton-like, or blended appearance Excellent pleat retention Resists moths, oil, chemicals 40 All rights are reserved Disadvantages: Low absorbency Develops static Pilling Heat sensitive Weak Dissolved by nail polish remover (acetone)
Spandex Developed in 1959 by DuPont Stretches over 500% without breaking Advantages: Lightweight Retains original shape Abrasion Resistant Stronger than rubber Soft, smooth, supple Resists body oils, perspiration, lotions, detergents No static or pilling Disadvantages: Whites yellow with age Heat sensitive Harmed by chlorine bleach nonabsorbent 41 All rights are reserved
Microfibers Newest trend in fashion 1st developed in 1989 by DuPont Ultra-fine fiber Denier is a unit of measurement used to identify the thickness of diameter of a fiber Advantages Extremely drapeable Very soft, luxurious hand Washable or dry cleanable Shrink-resistant Strong Insulates against wind, rain, and cold Disadvantages Heat sensitive 42 All rights are reserved
Kevlar & Nomex Advantages Exceptional strength Exceptional heat and flame resistance Resistant to stretch and abrasion Disadvantages Not absorbent 43 All rights are reserved
Kevlar Bullet Proof Vests Cut/Heat and Chemical resistant Gloves Nomex Fireman Uniforms Racing Apparel 44 All rights are reserved
Apartment Therapy A Rum Fellow
With craft continuing to rise in popularity, macramé techniques are gaining traction. Anthropologie recently commissioned workshops by stylist Emily Henson, while Red magazine asked stylist Joanna Thornhill to demonstrate at a public event. Authentic pieces from the 1970s heyday appear modern when incorporated into otherwise contemporary interiors, and crafters recreate original patterns. In contrast, some designers opt to add modernity to pieces by streamlining shapes and incorporating contemporary colours. While hanging plant pot holders and wall hangings form the main part of this trend, lighting, furniture and accessories now also feature in homes and public spaces. Playing with scale gives a modern twist to macramé, and is seen across the board, from domestic wall hangings to giant art installations in exhibitions or commercial venues. American Trade Hotel Six Week Boutique The Student Hotel Amsterdam
A renewed interest in houseplants, especially among young, urban small-space dwellers, makes macramé plant hangers a practical option, with websites such as Urban Jungle celebrating the movement. Made from slim string or jute, cut jersey fabric or acrylic rope, they incorporate modern touches, such as neon twines and chunky wooden beads. Graham & Green Modern Macrame Joanna Thornhill Warp and Weft Atelier Rue Verte A Rum Fellow
Referencing the 1970s, makers play with colour, using unexpected hues or ombré-dyed string to add a contemporary twist to original designs. As well as more traditional rectangular formats, interesting shapes such as circular and abstract designs appear. Macramé knotting is also mixed with other mediums such as weaving or screen-printing. Maryanne Moodie Vicky's Home Himo Art A Pair And A Spare Warp and Weft Rowan Studios
Revived retro shapes such as hanging chairs and hammocks or suspended side tables take on authentic 1970s styles, or embrace more streamlined silhouettes. Accessories play with scale for a modern twist. The Notknot cushion mimics an oversized macramé knot while Ladies & Gentlemen’s rug resembles an oversized doily. Reykjavik Corner Store Patricia Urquiola Apartment Therapy Sunroom Ladies & Gentlemen Studio Classy Clutter
Lighting makes a natural pairing for macramé, due to its ability to cocoon itself around a variety of different shapes, making for theatrical pieces. Examples include large-scale designs or oversized knots, with Christian Haas’s Ropes light incorporating modern LED lighting technology within the rope itself. Lights Lights Lights Rennes Smalltown Justyna Blakeney Christian Haas
Designers emulate macramé patterning on fabrics, wallpapers and soft furnishings, as a form of homage to the real thing, offering a get-the-look option for consumers perhaps unwilling to have full macramé items within their homes. As well as repeat pattern designs, print artwork depicting finished macramé pieces emerges. Surfacephilia Anthropologie Alia Diaz Harlequin Jane Clayton Lamorna
Macramé is mimicked with hard structures that range from organic approaches, with rope-based items treated with hardening resins, to pieces completely engineered from man-made materials. Launched in Milan, Kartell and Exnovo's new lamps employ the latest 3D printing technology to recreate a traditional macramé design. Kenneth Cobonpue .exnovo Kettal Accademia Kartell
Giant scale gives macramé a modern look, and art installations are commissioned by various hotels and restaurants. Homeowners also personalise their spaces with bespoke pieces acting as room dividers or backdrops for special occasions, such as weddings. Ace Hotel Palm Springs Sera of London A Beautiful Mess Nikki Gabriel Jacqueline Surdell 100 Layer Cake