ASFT
AMITY SCHOOL OF FASHION
TECHNOLOGY
Course Title: Fashion Material study-II
Course Code: TEXT401
ASFT
AMITY SCHOOL OF FASHION
TECHNOLOGY
Module IV: Interlining
Course Objectives: ASFT
• To develop an understanding of the technical &
commercial aspects of materials (trims) vis-à-vis
the various garment types with respect to the
various global markets.
Course Learning Outcomes: ASFT
By the end of this course, students will be able to
• 1) Remembering the major trim & accessories types and prevalent in the major markets.
• 2 ) Understand the major trim & accessories types and prevalent in the major markets.
• 3 ) Applying the Ability to discern the trim & accessories types available in the market
• 4 ) Analyzing the major sources and prices of the trims
• 5 ) Analyzing the major sources and prices of the trims
• 6 ) Creating accessories folder
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Interlining ASFT
Interlining is a very important in apparel manufacturing. Interlining is one kind of
accessories that is used between the two layers of fabric in a garment.
To keep the different component or part of apparel in a desired shape, a kind of fabric is
used between the two ply of fabric by sewing or fusing is called interlining.
Generally, interlinings are soft, thick, and flexible. It is made cotton, nylon, polyester,
wool and viscose. Sometimes finishing is necessary to improve its properties i.e. shrink
resist finish, crease resist finish.
PURPOSE AND USE ASFT
These aims can be separated into three separate groups.
（ 1 ） TO MAKE Sewing Easier and To Increase Production
● Because of the speed of industrial sewing machines the material must
be in perfect shape before sewing so that the machine operator does not have to
try to reshape the piece before or during the sewing [Link]. before
sewing ,interlining is fused onto the material,it keeps it shape, therefore
saving time and labour.
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（ 2 ） Retaining Shape and Improving Materials Appearance
● The use of interlining helps the garment material 's appearance
while at the same time retaining the garments shape. With the
development of interlinings and better Fusing press machines,
the permanent fusing process was Developed. With this process,
garments keep their shape no matter how often they are worn or
washed
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（ 3 ） Making a Functional, Lasting ,Easy to Wear Product
Using the Permanent press technique, everyone from
the producers and designers to the consumers is
satisfied. The people in production find the garments
easier to sew, the clothing designers can achieve
shape and long term performance, while the
consumers get a good quality product that is easy to
care for, looks good and is easy to wear. The basic aim
of pressing is to make the garment look better for
longer periods of time. While still being comfortable.
Interlining reduces the occurrence of stretching,
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FUNCTIONS OF INTERLINING:
To support the garment.
To control the shape of the garment.
To control the area of the apparel.
To reinforce the components of the garment.
To make the apparel beautiful, strong and attractive.
To ensure the anticipated look, quality and effect of the
fabric.
To improve garment performance.
Uses of Interlinings: Interlining is generally used in collar,
TYPES OF INTERLINING ASFT
There are mainly two
types of interlining are as
follows:
Sewn interlining or non-
fusible interlining.
Fusible interlining
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DIVISION OF FUSING:-Permanent Fusing and Temporary Fusing
Interlining can be divided into 2 groups temporary and permanent.
The purpose of temporary fusing is to make sewing easier and to reinforce the stitching.
The fusing intensity does not need to be strong as it is merely to prevent puckering during
stitching.
Permanent fusing is used when the shape and style of the garment intact. Therefore after
washing and long periods of use, the interlining must stay fused. If the fusing temperature,
pressure and timing are not correctly set, the intensity of the fusing will differ. Before
fusing, the type of material and interlining being used and the desired intensity of the
bond must be considered.
(a) Permanent fusing must stay fused after washing or dry cleaning.
(b)Temporary fusing is simply to make sewing easier and can become separated after the
garment is completed.
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NON FUSIBLE INTERLINING
The interlining which is used between two layers of
fabrics directly by sewing without heat and pressure
is called non-fuse interlining.
This type of interlining is also called sewn
interlining or non- fusible interlining.
For the preparation of sewn interlining a piece of
fabric is treated
with starch and allowed to dry and finally sewn
with main fabric.
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Non fuse interlining is used for special
case.
The application field is given below:
Non-fuse interlining use in “Flame
Retardant” apparel.
It is used for making apparel for fire
service people.
Specially used in embroidery
machine.
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Advantages of Non-fusible Interlining:
To make fl ame retardant garments.
Simple and easy technique.
No elaborate machine is required.
Possible to use in steel or re-rolling or
highly heated industry.
Disadvantages of Non-fusible
Interlining:
Quality is not good.
Not suitable for large production.
More time required.
High work load & labor cost.
FUSIBLE INTERLINING: ASFT
It is most used interlining. The interlining
which is used between two layers of fabrics
by applying heat and pressure for a certain
time is called Fusible Interlining.
Fusible interlining is used for all kinds of
apparel.
Also it is used in “Ready to wear” and
“Bespoke garment”. It is very popular.
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Advantages of Fusible Interlining:
To get similarities among the apparel. Interlining gives the
same outlook of the apparel.
Application process is very easy.
It has high productivity.
Fusing time is less.
It is cheap.
Performance is very good.
Disadvantages of Fusible
Interlining:
High temperature is required.
TYPES OF FUSIBLE INTERLINING: ASFT
On the basis of resin coating and its
properties fusible interlining can be
classified as follows:
Polyethylene coated interlining
Polyamide coated interlining
PVC coated interlining
Polyester coated interlining
Polypropylene coated interlining
PVA coated interlining
Polyethylene Coated ASFT
Interlining:
Polyethylene is used as resin
coating.
The effect of varying the
density of the resin is to give a
greater resistance to dry
cleaning solvents and a higher
softening point with increasing
density.
This type of interlining is used
in collar, cuff of shirt.
The fabric attached with this
type of interlining can be
washed in water.
Polyamide Coated Interlining: ASFT
Polyamide is used as
resin coating.
Poly-amides are
widely very
cleanable
used garments.
in
High temperature
fusing is done dry
for the
garments, which are
washed with water at
60ºc.
PVC Coated Interlining: ASFT
Poly vinyl chloride is used as
resin coating
This type is suitable for both
dry cleanable and washable
garments.
PVC coated interlining is
widely used for making the
coat type garments.
Polyester Coated Interlining: ASFT
Polyester is used as resin coating
Polyester resins are used in dry
cleanable and washable garments
because polyester is less water
absorbent than polyamide.
It can be used as in all types of
garments
This is called ideal interlining
Available in market but costly in
price
Polypropylene Coated Interlining ASFT
Polypropylene coated
interlining. The resin is
similar to the properties
of polyethylene coated
interning
Comparatively high
temperature fusing is
done.
The fabric attached with
this interlining can be
washed with water
PVA Coated Interlining ASFT
PVA coated interlining. Poly vinyl acetate
is used
as resin coating
PVA coated interlining is not dry
cleanable and it has limited wash ability
Low temperature and pressure is
required. Basically it is used between the
leather and fur materials.
The resin is normally in the form of a
continuous plasticized coating on the
base fabric.
This type is rarely used in garments
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SELECTING & USING SUPPORTIVE
FABRICS
LININGS, UNDERLININGS &
INTERLININGS
Lining ASFT
LINING -- a separate, but attached, supportive or
inner garment fabric or fabric construction which
conceals or covers the insidegarment construction.
Garments may be fully or only partially lined;
completely or partially attached to the fashion
garment.
A lining eliminates the need for time-consuming
seam finishes and reduces "wear and tear" on the
inside garment construction.
It will lengthen the life and durability of a garment.
A lining provides some body and support to a
garment, but it
never takes the place of interfacing.
It often makes the garment easier to wear over
other clothing—as in a jacket or coat; it can
Fabric Selection ASFT
There are a multitude of fabrics suitable
for use as a lining. The deciding factors
include:
1) type of fashion fabric (weight, fiber
content/method of care, hand or "feel,"
personal likes and dislikes)
2) type and style of garment
3) type of lining--partial or complete; and
how the lining will be attached
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Fabrics may be woven or knit; they should be able to "give" and
recover as necessary to accommodate body movement.
The lining fabric should be durable, opaque, colorfast to
perspiration and body oils and the same care method as the fashion
fabric.
Lining should match or harmonize in color with the fashion
fabric, and have a smooth surface texture to permit the garment to
be taken on and off the body easily.
It is important that the lining be the same weight (a lightweight
polyester or microfiber jacket or dress) or lighter weight (wool
slacks or suit) and softer than the fashion fabric so that it does not
dominate the garment.
Lining fabric should be preshrunk before using following the same
procedure you plan to use for the finished garment.
Purchasing Tips ASFT
Pay very close attention to fiber content
and fabric weave as they provide some
very important clues to lining durability.
If garment is to be worn close to the body--
i.e. dress-- be sure lining is absorbent or
"breathable." This often eliminates some
synthetic linings made of polyester, nylon,
etc.
Rayons, rayon/acetate blends or cotton may
be more comfortable. Purchase or invest in
the highest quality lining available
UNDERLINING ASFT
UNDERLINING -- a supportive or inner garment fabric which "backs," or is
attached to,
each major garment piece (jacket front, jacket back, sleeve, etc.).
The underlining and fashion fabric function together as one piece
throughout the construction process. The entire garment or only parts of
the garment may be underlined depending on the garment design, fashion
fabric and the chief function of the underlining. Underlining can give
support and shape, prevent sagging and stretching, add crease resistance,
provide evenness of color when the fashion fabric is not opaque or firmly
woven, and help create certain fashion detail effects.
It is not designed to take the place of interfacing. A combination of
underlining and lining maybe used in a garment. Underlining should be
preshrunk. Use the same grain as corresponding garment pieces unless a
separate pattern is included.
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Fabric Selection:
The weight of the underlining is usually
lighter, but compatible to the fashion
fabric.
Underlining and the fashion fabric must be
compatible in terms of care. Examples of
underlinings include voile, organza,
lightweight polyester/cotton blends, silk,
muslin, lightweight percales, batiste, fusible
tricot, and some commercial lining fabrics.
Underlining should be preshrunk before
using.
INTERLINING ASFT
INTERLINING --- a separate layer of fabric or fabric construction
between the lining and the fashion fabric used for many purposes.
Interlining is usually cut by the same pattern as the lining.
In the case of foam, fleece or felt-type fabric which adds some
bulk, lining would need to be cut some larger to accommodate
interlining. Interlining does not take the place of interfacing.
Fabric Selection: Some lining fabrics are backed with or come with
interlining substances: a metallic reflective finish, backed with
wool, quilted, or napped- backed lining fabrics, etc. Bulk often
becomes a serious consideration; "warmth without weight" is
another. Interlinings must be compatible with all other fabrics in
the garment in terms of care.
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Major suppliers of Interlinings ASFT
To know the major suppliers of interlinings please go
through the following link.
[Link]
[Link]?category=seller&IsAutoSuggest=0&keywor
ds=Interlinings
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Reference
• [Link]
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ng%20is%20a%20layer%20of,wearing%2Fuse%20
or%20aftercare%20treatments
.
• [Link]
rment-manufacturing/
• [Link]
to-interlining/
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• Video link
1) [Link]
2)[Link]
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