Fabric Inspection: Process
The process outlined in the following are the procedure for textile Inspection process Is to be adhered to by the mill, third party inspection services and the garment manufactures: Textile Evaluation Procedure 4 point system Defect Size Penalty point Inspection Conditions Fabric Groupings Standards of Fabrics Critical Defects Acceptable Point Count Levels Roll Classification Color Control of Fabrics
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Textile Evaluation Procedure Four Point System
All textiles are to be inspected in accordance to the Four Point System To Evaluate the fabric acceptability penalty points are assigned to each defectdepending on the size and location of the defect Four Point system derives its name from basic grading rules: No more than four penalty point may be assigned to any single defect No more than four points may be assigned to any one liner yard regardless of the number of defects within that one yard The formula used to determine the point count level of a roll of fabric is as follows:
Textile Evaluation Procedure Penalty Point System
Defects in both warp/ fill directions will be assigned points using the following criteria: Penalty Point 1 point 2 points 3 points Inches Defects 3 or less Defects >3 6 Defects >6 9
4 points
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Defects >9
Textile Evaluation Procedure Inspection Conditions
All Textile are to be inspected on an inspection frame or perch fitted with a variable speed motor and a clock for measuring rolls lengths Inspection frame is to be lighted with a minimum of two F96 CWB (cool white) fluorescent bulbs Inspection speed should be left to the discretion of inspector abilities, but should not exceed 15 yard per minute for dark and medium colors 10 yards per minute for light colors 1st 3 yard to be reviewed at half speed Stop every 25 yards approx for a detailed review Stop and mark every fault found Sheer light fabrics will be viewed with a back light and/ or double layered
Critical Defects Classifications
Physical Standard Critical Defects If found in the product would be rejected or returned by our customer Rolls with a 3yd continuous defect, such as barre, streaks, creasing, uneven finish/ brushing continuous manner Rolls with a noticeable degree of looseness or tightness along either or both selvages, exhibits ripples, puckers, folds or creases Rolls less than Talbots tolerances for cuttable width maximum -2% Rolls with width greater 3% Shading: Rolls less than 4-5 grey scale rating Penalty Point/ Action Rolls Classified as REJECT Rolls Classified as REJECT
Rolls Classified as REJECT Rolls Classified as REJECT Rolls Classified as REJECT Shade groupings sent to be sent to both and Agent/ Vendor for review and disposition Rolls Classified as REJECT Rolls with more than 2 splices: Roll Classified as REJECT Each Splices 4 points per splice Rolls Classified as REJECT
Rolls found to deviate more than 2% from the length of the roll ticket Splices
Bow/ Skew: rolls containing outside Talbots bow and skew standard
Holes: consisting of two or more broken yarns Fabric weight Rolls greater than the tolerance of +/-5% outside the contacted weight
Maximum 4 points per defect Roll Classified as REJECT
Critical Defects Classifications Print Bow
Critical Defects Classifications - Skew
Critical Defects Classifications - Barre
Critical Defects Classifications - Slub
Critical Defects Classifications - Hole
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Critical Defects Classifications - Float
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Critical Defects Classifications - Snagging
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Critical Defects Classifications Slack end Insufficient warp tension
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Critical Defects Classifications Mending Mark
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Critical Defects Classifications Side Center Side Shading
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Critical Defects Classifications Roll Shading
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Critical Defects Classifications Mis-pick
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Grouping Classification
Group One
20 points max allowable/ 100 square yard Canvas and twills
Group Two
28 points max allowable/ 100 square yard All Specialty Novelty Fabrics: Jacquards, Seersuckers, Dobby, Crinkle
Synthetics: Polyester/ Nylon/ Acetate
Basic Silks Shirting: Casual and Dress: Yarn Dye and Solids: Broadcloth, oxfords, pique, checks, voile, chiffon, faille, poplines Rayon and Rayon blends Wools and wool blends: worsted, boiled, gabardines Denims: open end and spun
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Chambray/ Indigo Yarn Dyes
Coated Fabrics wax, oil, pu Corduroys, Fleece, Flannel, Velvet, Slub Denim Dupioni Silk Linen/ Linen Blends Madras
Acceptable Point Count Level
Grading per roll classification Group One Group Two Action
1st Quality Acceptable
20 points/ 100 square yard
28 points/ 100 square yard
Mill to Ship
2nd Quality Acceptable
21-30 points/ 100 square yard
29-38 points/ 100 square yard
Mill can ship with allowable compensation Mill cannot ship without agreement with Garment Manufacturer and local agent office
Rejected
31+points 100 square yard
39+points/ 100 square yard
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Grading Roll Classification and Compensation Guideline
First Quality Rolls Individual rolls are classified as first quality grade when the assigned defect point count level is below the maximum or equal to the allowable point count per grouping 2nd Quality Rolls Individual rolls are classified as second quality when assigned defect point counts level falls within the allowable penalty points per range per grouping nd Quality Rolls Compensation 2 Mill will compensate a minimum of 0.25 yards per point above the accept point count level Vendor to accept responsibility to achieve maximum fabric cuttability when agreed faults exceed the maximum allowable 1st Quality acceptable point count level Rolls graded as 2nd quality will be deemed as commercially acceptable with mill compensation Reject Rolls Individual rolls will be classified as Reject if point counts are above the maximum second quality allowable limit or Critical defects are detected. (shading, bowing, continuous flaw etc) Shipment will fail if the total number of rejected yardage exceeds 10% of the total number of yardage audited are classified as REJECTED If Fail; mill is required to hold the shipment and acquire an approval from L&F prior to shipping Rejected roll may need to be fully replaced or compensated
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