INTRO TO YM

BY MR. UZAIR HUSSAIN

 Topic

Yarn Numbering
&
Drafting

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Yarn numbering system

 Yarns can be of different sizes

 They can be thick or thin
 But it is difficult to measure their diameter
 So the size of the yarn is expressed by taking into account its mass
and length
Yarn numbering system

Yarn Number
•It is a measure of linear density of the material and NOT its
diameter or cross‐sectional size.

• Yarn Count and Yarn Size are synonymous with Yarn

Number.

•Expressed as a certain length of yarn per a standard

weight or as a certain weight of yarn per a standard length.
 Yarn Number

The number which shows the fineness or coarseness of yarn is called

yarn number.
There are two systems of yarn numbering.
i. Direct system
ii. Indirect system

In direct system, yarn number is called the linear density of yarn

with units of tex, denier and dtex, etc.
While, in the indirect system, yarn number is called the yarn count
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 Direct System

The most widely used indirect numbering systems are

1. Tex (Tex = No. of grams / 1000 m)

2. Grex (Grex = No. of grams / 10,000 m)

3. Denier (Denier = No. of grams / 9000 m)

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Yarn numbering system
All Yarn Numbering Systems can be categorized into two
groups;

Indirect and Direct

•Indirect or reciprocal yarn numbering systems with a higher number

means a finer or light weight material.
Yarn numbering system

Direct yarn numbering systems with a higher number

means a coarser or heavier weight material.
 Direct System

It is used for the measurement of linear density that is the weight

per unit length of yarn.

In this system yarn length is kept constant and weight is variable.

Linear density = mass / length

In the direct system, yarn thickness and yarn number are directly
proportional.
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Direct Yarn Numbering systems

 Tex: (No. of Grams / 1000 m)

 Example: A 20 tex yarn weighs 20 grams per a standard length of 1,000 meters

 Decitex (dtex) = No. of Grams / 10,000 m)

 Example: a 200 decitex yarn weighs 200 grams per 10,000 meters

 Denier: (No. of Grams / 9000 m)

 Example: a 70 denier yarn weighs 70 grams per a standard length of 9,000 meters
 Example: a 300 denier yarn weighs 300 grams per 9,000 meters
 Question: What does 150 denier mean?
Direct Yarn Numbering systems
Yarn numbering system
 Indirect System

It is used for the measurement of length per unit weight of the yarn.
In this system, weight is kept constant while length is variable.

In the indirect system, yarn thickness and yarn number are inversely
proportional. This means that as the yarn count increases the yarn
weight decreases and hence yarn becomes finer.

The indirect system is also known as English system of counting.

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 Indirect System

The most commonly used indirect numbering systems

are

1. English Cotton Nec = No of hanks / lbs

2. Metric system Nm = Km / Kg

3. Worsted N = No of hanks / lbs

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 Indirect System

Different hank lengths for natural

fibers

Nature of Fiber Hank

Length
Cotton 840 yards
Spun silk 840 yards
Wool 256 yards
Worsted 560 yards 16
Indirect Yarn Numbering systems

 Hank lengths for different systems

Nature of Fibre Hank Length
Cotton 840 yards
Spun silk 840 yards
Wool 256 yards
Worsted 560 yards
Linen 300 yards
Jute 14400 yards
Asbestos 50 yards
yarn size

yarn number—size or fineness

• filament yarns—weight per unit length
• spun yarns—length per unit weight; generally the
finer the yarn, the larger the number
denier system—
•describes yarn size using filament fibers
•weight in grams per 9,000 meters
tex system—
•determines yarn number in the same way for all yarns
•weight in grams per 1,000 meters
Yarn Size Systems
 Relationship between weight of yarns and
certain length of yarn
 Yarn sizes
 Yarn-count systems (spun yarns)
 cotton, lea, run, worsted
 Denier system (filament yarns)
d = denier
 dpf = denier per filament
 Tex system (mostly for thread)
 Tex and d-tex
 Yarn Count System
 Larger the size number, finer the
yarn
 Sheer lawn = 70s to 100s
 Calico = 30s to 40s
 Written as 50/2 (yarn count +
number of plies)
 Denier System
 Higher the denier, larger the yarn
 1 d yarn: 9000 meters of yarn
weighs 1 gram
 2 d yarn: 9000 meters of yarn
weighs 2 grams
 Sheer hosiery = 20 d
 Luggage = 100 d

 Tex System
Spun yarns = yarn count
system
Spun yarns may be plied
Size is expressed as 50/2 count
(or if woolen or worsted as 2/50)
(2 yarns are twisted together & each yarn size
is 50/1 count)

An equivalent sized singles yarn would be size 25 count (50
divided by 2)
Filament yarns = denier system
Filament yarns are seldom plied but
when they are, the size is expressed as
two-ply 80 denier
 a singles yarn of comparable size would be

160 d. (80 x 2)
 300-10-1/2 Z means a 300 denier multifilament yarn with 10 filaments (each 30
d.) with a half turn per inch and a Z-twist. This is NOT a plied yarn.
Indirect Yarn Numbering systems

 English Count (Ne)

 Example: a Ne 24 yarn number means that it takes 24 hanks of the yarn to weigh one pound.
 • 24/1 denotes a singles yarn (“24” singles)
 • 48/2 denotes a plied yarn (“48’s” 2‐ply)
 Question: What does 10/1 mean?
 Metric Count (Nm)
 Example: a Nm 30 yarn number means that it takes 30 meters of yarn to weigh one gram or 30
kilometers of yarn to weigh one kilogram
 Question: What does Nm 20 mean?
 Worsted Count (Nw) – yarn number represents the number of 560 yard lengths of yarn (also
called “hanks”) that it takes to weigh one pound.
 Example: a Nw 36 yarn means it takes 36 hanks (560‐yard lengths) of yarn to weigh one pound.
 Note: Worsted count yarns are usually long staple yarns and typically wool or wool blends that
go into worsted fabrics.
 Practice

 100 grams of yarn have a length of 1000 meters, what will be its
metric count (Nm)?
 1grams of yarn have a length of 1000 meters, what will be its metric
count (Nm)?
 95 grams of yarn have a length of 100 meters, what will be its metric
count (Nm)?
 One pound of yarn have a length of 1680 yards, what will be its Ne
count?
Different conversions

 1yard (yd) = 0.9144m

 1 pound (lb) = 0.4536kg or 1 lb = 453.6 grams
 1 ounce (oz) = 1/16lb or 1 lb = 16 ounces
 1 grain (gr) = 1/7000 lb or 1 lb = 7000 grains
 1 gram (gm) = 15.43 grains
Practice

 250 meters of yarn weighs 35 grams, what will be its count in Ktex
and Tex?

 2550 meters of yarn weighs 30.5 grams, what will be its count in
Denier and dTex?
 1,000 meters of yarn weighs 0.1 Kg, what will be its count in Ktex,
Denier, dTex and Tex?
 10,000 meters of yarn weighs 0.1 Kg, what will be its count in Ktex,
Denier, dTex and Tex?
Yarn Number Conversions

 Some Common Conversions:

 Nm / 1.69 = Ne
 5315 / Denier = Ne
 590.54 / Tex = Ne
 Denier / 9 = Tex
 Decitex / 10 = Tex
 Nw / 1.5 = Ne
Inter-conversion of Yarn Numbers

1 Tex = 0.1

dTex

= 0.111

Denier

= 70.86 gr/y

= 25.4 µg/inch 28
Count conversion Table

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Count conversion table
Count calculation Table

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 Example of count calculation

Calculate the yarn number in Nec if length of yarn is

15000 yards and weight of yarn is 1.5 pounds. Further,

convert Nec to Tex.

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 Example of count calculation

Question: If a skein of 100 m of filament Viscose Yarn weight is

1.67 g, calculate its Denier.

Sol: In the Denier system the weight unit is the gram and the
unit of length is 9000 m.

Thus, W=1.67 g, L=100 m, and = 9000 m.

So the yarn count is 150.3 D.
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 Example of count calculation

Question: Calculate the tex-count of nylon yarn, if the length of

yarn is 20000 yards & its weight is 400 gram’s.

Sol: 1 yard = 0.9144 meter

1000 x Weight in gram’s
Tex = -------------------------------
Length in meter’s

1000 x 400
Tex = --------------------------
20000 x 0.9144
Tex = 21.87
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 Example of count calculation

Question: The yarn of polyester filament weighing 50 grams in 6000

meter length calculate the Denier of the yarn.

Answer:
9000 x Weight in grams
Denier = --------------------------------------
Length in meter
9000 x 50
Denier = ----------------------
6000
Denier = 75
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 Example of count calculation

Question: A yarn having length of 90,000 yards and its weight in 2

pounds calculate its English count.
Answer:
Length in yards
English cotton count (Ne) = -----------------------------------
840 x Weight in lbs
90,000
Ne = -------------------
840 x 2
English cotton count (Ne) = 53.57

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 Example of count calculation

Question: If 80 yards worsted yarn weighing 50 grains

what is count of yarns.
Answer:
Length in yards
Worsted count (Nm) = ---------------------------------
560 x Weight in lbs
80
Nm = ------------------------
560 x (50/7000)
Nm = 20.0s

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 Example of count calculation

Question: If 240 yards of linen yarn weight 1 oz., what is the count
of the yarn.

Answer:
1 lbs. = 16 oz.
Length in yards
Linen count = -------------------------------
300 x Weight in lbs

240
Linen count = ----------------------
300 x (1/16)
Linen count = 12.8 38
 Example of count calculation
Question: Calculate Metric cotton count of 60000 yards weighing 1.2 pound
(lbs.)

Answer:
1 yard = 0.9144 meter
1 kg = 2.202 pounds
Length in meters
Metric count (Nm) = -----------------------------------
1000 x Weight in kg

60000 x 0.9144
Metric count (Nm) = -----------------------------------
1000 x (1.2/2.202)

54864
Metric count (Nm) = -----------------------------------
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1000 x 0.5449
Metric count (Nm) = 100.68
Draft

 Increase in length per unit weight

OR
 Decrease in weight per unit length

 There are two types of drafting:

 Dispersion Drafting
 Roller Drafting
 Draft

 Increase in length per unit weight

 Decrease in weight per unit length

There are two main types of Draft used in spinning industry

i. Dispersion Draft (Material is opened and weight/length of is
reduced)
ii. Roller Draft (length/weight is increased)

Dispersion drafting is done on the Blow-Room machines, Carding,

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Draft

 The type of drafting in which the material attenuates in an irregular

and dispersed form is called dispersion drafting.
 Dispersion drafting mainly performs opening and cleaning actions.
Straightening and parallelization are also observed but to a short
extent.
 Dispersion drafting takes place in blow room, i.e. Scutcher AND card
machine.
Roller Drafting

 The type of drafting in which a minimum of two pairs of rollers are

used to keep the material in a regular form, is called roller drafting.
e.g. the regular form may be sliver, roving etc.
 Roller drafting mainly perform straightening and parallelization of
fibers. Opening and cleaning are not usually concerned in roller
drafting .
 Roller drafting takes place on drawing frame, simplex & ring spinning
frame.
Roller Drafting

Objectives of Drafting:-

(i)To decrease the wt/l

(ii)To straighten the fibres
(iii)To
parallelize the fibres
To regularize the fibres
Roller Drafting

Indirect system
Ending Notes

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