LINE BALANCING IN SEWING LINE

Project analysis slide 8

• The process of aligning operations within a specific production line, that
removes bottlenecks and minimizes fluctuations in production levels and
operation downtime.
• The process of assigning tasks to workstations or workers in such a way
Pocket Attach Pocket Hem that the workstations/workers have approximately equal time .
• It helps in maximizing operator and machine utilization , while ensuring
least operator shuffling .

Yoke Top stitch Yoke Attach Appropriate allocation of operators to operations is the key to any balancing.
Allocation also depends on the type of balance required .

Intrinsic Balance Dynamic Balance

Sleeve Gathering Collar Band Set One approach to Another approach of

allocation is to find the allocation is to utilize
closest match between the operators in
operator performance operations they can
required and operator do best.
Collar Band Hem Collar Edge stitch performance available .

Trim collar Collar Run stitch

 LINE BALANCING : EXAMPLE
Project analysis slide 8

Unbalanced Line Balanced Line

 LINE BALANCING : STEPS
Project analysis slide 8
Line balancing can be defined as the step by step as:

01
02
•Optimum 03
sectionalisation
(operation breakdown) Calculate time values for 04
of a garment each operation (using
either time study or Calculate total workforce
PMTS) Allocate available resources
requirement based on (operators who are present) to
target, utilization factor, requirements (operations), so that:
attendance and avg.
efficiency (rating) of Target is fulfilled
operator Priorities of operations are met
Operators are assigned to operations
they do best
Idle time for operators are minimized
No bottleneck operations
 LINE BALANCING : EXAMPLE
Project analysis slide 8

Skill Requirement Skill Availability Allocation

Operation SAM M/C Target Rating Operation Sita Urmila Rita Savita Operation Intrinsic Dynamic
Balance Balance
Collar 1.5 SNLS 40pcs 100% Collar 70% 105% 140% Collar Attach Urmila Savita
Attach Attach
Cuff 1.2 SNLS 40pcs 80% Cuff Attach 80% 100% Cuff Attach Sita Rita
Attach
Band Hem 1.0 SNLS 40pcs 66% Band Hem 120% 70% 100% 70% Band Hem Savita Savita+Rita
 LINE BALANCING : OTHER OPTIONS
Project
Clubbing andanalysis slide
splitting of operations 8 on type of operation, type of m/c and sequence of operation
are dependent
and often not practically possible even if required for the sake of balancing.

Clubbing Splitting
Operations Operations
Clubbing of operations are Splitting of a time
comparatively easier and consuming operation may
operations that require similar require operation re-
machines (similar attachment engineering and require
also) can easily be clubbed even reasonably good command
though the material flow in the over garment construction
floor becomes jigsaw. techniques.
After completing above steps the supervisor calculate operator efficiency required for every operation and then
operators are assigned jobs (operations) based on what they can do best.
 THREAD CONSUMPTION
Project analysis slide 10 01 Thickness of
fabrics
02 Plies of fabrics to be sewn
• The amount of threads that is needed
to produce a garment is called thread 03 Stitch types
consumption of that Garment.
• Generally, it is expressed in Length. 04 Stitch density
• It is important to know the amount of
thread consumed in a sewn product Sewing thread 05 Width of
in order to estimate the number of consumption factors Seam
cones needed and calculate the cost
of the thread needed to manufacture 06 Design & Size of garment
the finished product.
07 Automatic thread
trimmer
08 Quality of Thread
 THREAD CONSUMPTION: METHODOLOGY
There are two methods generally used to calculate the amount of thread in a seam and hence the thread consumption in the sewn product
Project analysis slide 10
A specified length of a given seam is measured and then the thread is pulled out of this
length.

We can use the amount pulled out of this specified length to calculate the ratio
of thread consumed in the entire seam.

By dividing the amount of thread by the seam length, we get the ratio of
thread consumed.

If we multiply this factor times the total length of seam, we can determine
the total thread consumed for that seam.

Generally, 10% to 15% wastage of thread is added to the consumption derived. This
wastage occurs due to shop-floor conditions like machine running, thread breakage,
repairs, etc.

1. Measuring Actual Thread

Consumed
 THREAD CONSUMPTION: METHODOLOGY
Project analysis slide 10
To calculate thread ratio, you need a sewing machine, fabric and sewing thread that will be used for bulk
production. For fabric and thread you can take similar thickness and same thread count in case actual is
Step 1 not available.

Sew a seam of 12 cms. long and take 10 cms. seam out of it by trimming 1 cm from both
edges.
Step 2

Unravel both needle thread and bobbin thread from the seam. Remove crimp from the unraveled
thread and measure its length in cm. Generally it will be higher than the seam length. Now find the
multiplying factor by dividing thread length with seam length. Assume unraveled needle thread length
Step 3 is 12.5 cm then needle thread multiplying factor is 12.5/10 or 1.25. Using this method you can find out
any types of machines’ thread consumption factors.

Once you have consumption factors then it is easy to calculate total thread consumption. Measure
seam length of all operations of the garment and get thread requirement by multiplying thread
consumption factor. Add thread wastage 15% for the thread that trim out from each ends of the seam.
Step 4

2. Simplified Thread Consumption

Calculation Process
 THREAD CONSUMPTION: CALCULATION
Project analysis slide 10
 THREAD CONSUMPTION: RATIOS
Thread Consumption Ratios
Project analysis slide 10
Stitch Description Total Thread No. of Needles Needle Thread % Looper/Under Thread %
Class Usage/cm of seam
301 Lockstitch 2.5 1 50 50
101 Chainstitch 4 1 100 0
401 2-Thread Chainstitch 5.5 1 25 75
304 Zig-Zag Lockstitch 7 1 50 50
503 2-Thread Overedge stitch 12 1 55 45
504 3-Thread Overedge stitch 14 1 20 80
512 4-Thread Mock-safety stitch 18 2 25 75

516 5-Thread Safety stitch 20 2 20 80

406 3-Thread Covering stitch 18 2 30 70
602 4-Thread Covering stitch 25 2 20 80
605 5-Thread Covering stitch 28 3 30 70

Note: The above ratios are arrived at with a stitch density of 7 stitches per cm (18 stitches per inch). Changes in stitch density will
change the ratios marginally
 THREAD CONSUMPTION: AN EXAMPLE
Project analysis slide 10
An Example - Thread Consumption for an average size Knitted T-Shirt

Seam Thread Total Thread

Stitch Type Length Ratio Consumption NT LT
(m) (m)

301 Lockstitch 4 2.5 10 5 5

• Length of seam = 100 cm (1 metre) 3 Thread
504 Overedge Stitch 3 14 42 8.5 34
• Stitch class 401 = 2-Thread Chain stitch
• From the table, total thread usage per cm of seam = 5.5 cm
2 Thread Chain
• Total thread consumption = 100 cm x 5.5 = 550 cm 401 Stitch 0.75 5.5 4 1 3
• Estimated Needle thread = 550 x 0.25 = 138 cm 2 Thread
503 Overedge Stitch 0.95 12 11.4 6.3 5.1
• Estimated Looper thread = 550 x 0.75 = 412 cm
1 Thread Chain
• Add 15% wastage = 550 cm x 1.15 = 633 cm of thread per 101 Stitch 0.1 4 0.4 0.4 0
seam Total thread consumed 67.8 21 47
By applying thread consumption ratios in a manner similar to
the calculation in the above example, a sample consumption Wastage (15%) 10 3 7
working for an average sized knitted t-shirt is shown in the next Total after considering wastage 77.8 24 54
slide.
Introduction to ergonomics
 Work Place Postures & Conduct for Operators

Today we will discuss:

• Why Operators get injured at your job
• Some ways you can reduce these injuries
• The right kind of equipment to use to prevent injury
 Garment Workers Have Many Work-related Injuries

Shoulder 23% Neck 33%

Elbow 15% Back 48%

Wrist 16% Hand 18%

Other 22% Hand 18%9%

Knee
WHY ARE YOU GETTING INJURED?

Doing The Same Thing Over And Over Again

Working In An Awkward Position

Working Too Hard Or Too Long

 NECK, UPPER BACK AND SHOULDER INJURIES

Head only slightly bent

Back Straight
Arms parallel to work surface

Hips and knees at 90 degrees

Feet Level

Awkward neck, and back position because of improper chair and table height or position.
NECK, UPPER BACK AND SHOULDER INJURIES
 NECK, UPPER BACK AND SHOULDER INJURIES

Straining to see your work hurts your neck, back

and shoulders.
Garment workers need:
● Good lighting
● No glare
● Eye exams and glasses if you have trouble
seeing
 NECK, UPPER BACK AND SHOULDER INJURIES

Awkward shoulder and elbow posture Bending and twisting to pick up fabric can hurt
your back and shoulders.
NECK, UPPER BACK AND SHOULDER INJURIES

The fabric pieces and your

tools should all be at the
same height and within
easy reach to prevent injury
 ARM, HAND AND FINGER INJURIES

Wrong Right

You hurt your wrists when you Keeping your wrist and hand in a
bend them like this straight line will prevent injury
 ARM, HAND AND FINGER INJURIES

Wrong Right

Bending your wrist and Keeping your wrist in

fingers like this will cause neutral position will
injuries! help prevent injuries.
 LOWER BACK INJURIES

•This chair doesn’t support the back

•Seat is tilted backward
• Chair edge presses against thigh
 KNEE, LEG AND FOOT INJURIES

• Hard Surface stops blood circulation, pinches

nerves, and injures knee

• You need enough room to move your legs

freely
 ERGONOMIC WORKSTATION DESIGN SUGGESTIONS

FOOTREST TABLE EXTENSION

It is inexpensive to make and Notice the hinge. The extension can be lowered when not in use.
keeps both feet level It supports the fabric so you don’t have to twist and lift as
much.
 ERGONOMIC WORKSTATION DESIGN SUGGESTIONS

TABLE TILT NO SLIP MATERIALS

Tilting the table a few degrees Inexpensive non-skid shelf liner keeps material
improves the line of vision. You
and tools from slipping when the table is tilted.
can sit straighter when you work.
 ERGONOMIC WORKSTATION DESIGN SUGGESTIONS

STORAGE BOXES PADDED KNEE PADS

These storage boxes help you These knee pads are easy to make. They use foam
keep the items you use in easy inside a simple covering that ties over the knee
reaching distance. pedal.
 ERGONOMIC WORKSTATION DESIGN SUGGESTIONS

USE RIGHT FOLDERS AND ATTACHMENTS PADDED KNEE PADS

If you work in a factory that is not well-lit, you may need a

better light source.
Make sure bulbs are replaced
 CHARACTERISTICS OF AN IDEAL WORK STATION
Project analysis slide 3
• All works (components) should be placed as closer as
possible to the operator for easy reach
• Enough space in between two machine for operator
movement

• Work should be presented correct way for easy

unbundling and quick pick up
• Use Jig and folders where required

Ideal
Workstation
• Keep bins or other means to dispose
finished work
• Arrange height adjustable chair

• Operators must have enough space on the table to handle

the garment parts.
• If required add table extension near operator and left side
of the machine
Introduction to SMED
 Style Changeovers in a Garment Factory
Project analysis
• Today’s highly slide
competitive fashion world6
is moving towards
shorter run styles in shortest lead time in a lowest possible
price.
• Every Garment Manufacturer wants to be competitive in
today’s Fashion Wear market, in Which Changeovers are
more due to shorter runs of styles and continuously
changing fashion trends.
• Many factories take hours or even days to do a changeover
to a new style.
• Many factories are losing around 20% of sewing floor
efficiency due improper changeover process set ups.
• QCO (Quick change over)) module is a highly effective tool
to reduce the losses owing to the frequent style changes.
 SMED: A Lean Approach to style changeover
Project analysis slide 6
• The Principal of Quick Changeover is based on the lean theory of
SMED: Stands for Single-Minute Exchange of Die.

• The SMED system is a theory and set of techniques that makes it

possible to perform equipment setup and changeover operations in
under 10 minutes – in another words, in the single-minute range.
• It Helps factories in producing small quantities with less WASTE by
making it Cost-Effective. SMED principles apply to changeovers in all
types of processes.

• “Quick Change Over” is a method of analysing and reducing the time

needed to change a process from producing one good part to
producing the next good part by using a team approach

Style change over Time = Run down Time + Set up Time + Run up Time
 SMED: A Lean Approach to style changeover
Project analysis slide 6
 SMED: A Lean Approach to style changeover
Project analysis slide 6
• Run down time: This is the time loss due to the end of
pieces from last order.
• Run Up time-: This is the time loss in learning and reaching
the target efficiency for the new style
• Set-Up Time: This is the time involved in transition from the
old style to new style incorporating following categories:
 Machine time
 Batch Setting Time
 Demonstration Time
 Other delay Time (operator delay etc.)
• The Set up time varies according to the Styles with changes in
duration under the above mentioned categories.
 SMED: A Lean Approach to style changeover
Project analysis slide 6
• The Set up time varies according to the Styles with changes in
duration under the above mentioned categories.
• For Style changeover we are mostly concerned with the Set-up time.
Using the SMED principle we can reduce the set up time by
segregating the different activities involved in Style changeover into
• External – Activities which can be done prior or parallel to
style changeover
• Internal – Activities which can be done only while the style
changeover
• And thereby trying to convert the internal activities into external
activities as much as possible.
 Activity Segregation & Responsibility Allocation in SMED: An Example
Project analysis slide 6
S. No. Activity Before SMED After SMED Responsible person

1 Layout planning Internal/ External IE Manager & Production Manager

external
2 Layout Change Internal Internal /External IE manager & Line Supervisor
3 Style Analysis External External IE manager, Production Manager & Merchandiser
4 Machine Preparation Internal External Machine Mechanic & Garment Technician
5 Machine Movement Internal Internal Machine Mechanic & Line Supervisor
6 Machine setting Internal Internal /External Machine Mechanic & Garment Technician
7 Operator Demonstration Internal Internal Garment technician ,Line supervisor & Line QC
8 WIP Planning Internal External Production Manager & cutting Incharge
9 Fabric & Trims Status Internal/ External Production Manager & fabric & Trims Manager
External
10 Operator Allocation Internal External IE Manager & Line Supervisor
11 Buffer Allocation Internal External Production Manager & cutting Incharge
12 Mock-ups preparation Internal External Garment technician & Line supervisor
13 Templates Preparation Internal External Garment technician & Line supervisor
14 Sealed sample, measurement charts Internal External Line Supervisor & Line QC
etc.
 Quick Changeover Through SMED: Process flow
Project analysis slide 6
• Preparation of production schedule for next upcoming style
• Pre-production meeting with merchandising, fabric & trims, Mechanic, IE, Quality & production team and ensure all are on the same page
1.

• OB preparation by IE with the help of SMV bank (past data) to ensure machine, folder & attachments and manpower requirements of the style
with proper SMV calculation for the style.
2.

• Preparation of Style sample by Supervisor to understand the garment construction by heart and understand the critical operations(Size-set )
• Preparation of mock-ups with illustrated construction comments by supervisors for critical operations
3.

• Check & confirm with technician, mechanic and IE for availabilty of proper machines, folder attachments and manpower(tailors & Helpers) as
per the OB and ensure the requirements are ready to be deployed
4.

• Preparation of simulated machine layout on paper by IE along with Production team (Floor Manager & Line Supervisor)
• Share the prepared machine layout with the mechanic for line set-up
5.
 Quick Changeover Through SMED: Process flow
Project analysis slide 6
• Checking with the cutting department and updating the cutting data as per the production schedule for upcoming style, a minimum of 2.5
days WIP to be maintained in cutting
6. • finishing layout should also be shared with the finishing Incharge/manager to ensure finishing line is ready for the new style.

• Meeting of IE, Line Supervisor, Mechanic, QC of the line before initiating changeover
• Distribution of Work/processes to responsible persons before changeover to ascertain accountability
7.

• Layout change successively started by Technician, supervisor, mechanic and QC as the old style ends operation wise
8. • Technician showing respective tailors their operations and QC checking the output and ensuring good output from every set-up workstation

• Putting up well illustrated mock-ups with construction comments on all operations for operator's help
• Continous Line balancing ny supervisor until the line reaches the planned efficiency
9.

• Prepare QCO report with changeover time as time taken to produce 1st good output of the new style from the last good output of old style.
10.
Introduction to Smart Factory
 What is a Smart Factory?
 The smart factory is defined as a factory where physical production processes and
operations are combined with digital technology, smart computing.

 The smart factory is an aspect of Industry 4.0, a new phase in the Industrial
Revolution that focuses heavily on:

• real-time data
• embedded sensors
• connectivity, automation
• machine learning.

 A factory that used industry 4.0 technologies - such as

• Robotics
• Artificial Intelligence (AI)
• Internet of Things (IoT)
• Analytics
• AR/VR.
Evolution of the smart factories
AUTOMATION
 Introduction to Automation
• Automation is the process of using a control
system to perform certain tasks.

• Automation can be achieved using various

automated tools and equipment that ease all Automation in pattern making
the processes in the industry.

• The role of automation in garment industry is

to increase productivity, throughput, and
flexibility of the production systems.

Automation in fabric spreading

 Introduction to Automation
• Garment manufacturing process is labor
intensive nature of cutting and sewing tasks
make them expensive.

Automation in fabric cutting

• Fabric cost and cut-and-sew labor are the two
largest expenses in apparel manufacturing.

• The application of
automation and robotics in apparel industry
can transform the labor-intensive production
into high-tech production centers.
Automation in pocket sewing
Why Automation ?

Productivity Increase

Improved Quality

Simplifying of Operations

Reduced Manpower
 Need for automation in garment industry
• Enhances Style Changeover: Consumer demands are changing quite frequently
and manufacturers who do not cope up with the industry will lay behind.

• To survive effectively with this fast-pacing industry, manufacturers can implement

automation to fasten their manufacturing processes.

• Reduced lead time: When the demands are regularly changing, it is necessary to
deliver the product on time.

• The manual process will take a lot of time while using automation will accomplish
the tasks rapidly.

• Hence, reducing the time to market and delivering the right product at the right
time and right place.
 Need for automation in garment industry
• Inventory Management: The garment industry uses raw materials like
fabrics and trims and managing this inventory will be costly at times.
• To cut the cost of inventory management, garment manufacturers can
use automated systems to manage inventories.

• Reduces the need for labor: The garment manufacturing process is

highly dependent on laborers and when there are multiple laborers
their cost of maintaining them also increases.
• At times the industry also faces issues with labor scarcity and heavy
absenteeism.
• Switching to automation in garment industry will reduce the need for
human labor. Hence, resulting in reduced costs, faster production, etc.
 Need for automation in garment industry
• Enhanced quality: As consumer demands increase, there is an
increase in the complexity of the design.

• While manufacturing unique garment designs, maintaining the

quality of the product is also a crucial aspect of the process.

• With the help of automated systems, garment manufacturers can

offer consistent quality garments with minimum rejections.
 BENEFITS OF APPAREL 4.0
• Reduced order delivery time
• Agility
• Transparency
• Increased quality
• Increased productivity
• Reduced operational costs
• Increased customer satisfaction
Challenges in implementing automation in the garment industry

• Adapting to the Technology: While switching to

automation technology in the garment development process, the
manufacturers will face a few barriers.
• For example, a machine operator may face difficulties in material
handling in an advanced industrial sewing machine that may affect
the end product quality.

• Initial ROI is low: The initial investment to automate the garment

manufacturing process is significant. But, the return on investment
of automation technology is very low in the initial days. The net cost
savings can be gained in a short period.
Challenges in implementing automation in the garment industry

• Incorporate the right technology: Automation in garment industry

will involve integrating costly equipment or fully automated
machines as per the requirements. So, the industry should figure out
which automated system suits the best for them and research well
before investing.

• Adapting the Change: Many garment workers will be more

comfortable with the manual process. While it comes to shifting to
digital technologies, they may find it more difficult to understand the
process. Hence, it may result in reduced productivity in the initial
days. However, the long-term goals of adapting to the technology
are way better than short-term losses.
 Various automation systems and advanced tools in garment manufacturing
Technology used in automation Abbreviation Description Areas of application
Creation of design, drawing of
Computer-aided design CAD garment components by the use of Designing, patternmaking, digitizing,
computers and grading

Computer-aided manufacturing CAM Manufacturing of garments by the use of Spreading, cutting, sewing, and
machines controlled by software material handling

Computer-aided process CAPP The use of computers in production Production planning, linkage
planning planning of garment manufacturing between CAD and CAM

Computer-aided quality control CAQC Application of computers to inspect the Garment inspection, statistical
garment quality process control

Computer-aided testing CAT Testing the components by the use of Intermediate testing of semi-finished
computers garments, final inspection

Automated inspection AIN Presentation of the components and Fabric, trims inspection
inspection are both done automatically

Automated material handling AMHD Used to automatically handle the fabric Fabric, patterns, semi finished
devices and other cut components garment handling
 Various automation systems and advanced tools in garment manufacturing

A software that integrates several Fabric storage, spreading, cutting,

Enterprise resource planning ERP operation of a plant relating to sewing, pressing packaging, human
technology, human resources, and other resources, inspection, supply chain,
services and retailing

Computer used factory floor CUFF Computers are used to monitor various Spreading, cutting, sewing, and
operations in the production floor inspection

Internet IT Global connecting system that connects Production planning, sewing, quality
millions of computers worldwide control

It can be between any departments

Communication CM The exchange of information between during production, distribution and
departments retail.
Thank You