TRAINING ON ORGANIC FERTILIZER

ORGANIC FERTILIZER

derived from animal matter, animal excreta (manure), human

excreta, and vegetable matter (e.g. compost and crop residues).
COMPOSTING
Composting is the life of organic
farming. It is the oldest and
most natural form of recycling
material in which a high
percentage of nutrients is
captured and returned back to
the soil.
Compost is the alternative fertilizer
offered by organic farming. It is a mixture
of decomposed organic materials
containing nutrients such as nitrogen,
phosphorus and potassium and lots of
other minerals ( copper molybdenum,
boron, iron, manganese, etc.) released
into readily available forms for plant use.
IMPROVING SOIL FERTILITY through
Compost Application
_____________________________________________________________________________________________

A. COMPOST APPLICATION
 compost making is the activity of intervening
in the natural process of degrading organic
materials to come up with safe & quality
compost in shorter time than the natural
process.
 application is the activity of introducing or
putting and or applying the compost to the
soil.
 10 Benefits of Using Compost

1. Big Savings - Composting is

economically sound as it cuts down
expenses on synthetic fertilizers. It
contains valuable nutrients that could
replace the use of commercial
fertilizers.
2. Increase Yields - A fertile, vital soil will
nurture the growth and health of plants due to
the increased number of elements made
available to the plants.
3. Improve texture of any type of soil:
sandy, clay, loose or hard.
4. Increase water – holding capacity of the
soil and prevents soil erosion- Compost
encourages healthy root system, which
decreases run- off.
5. Improves structure and aeration –
Compost loosens tightly bound particles so
roots can spread, water can drain and air can
penetrate.

6. Provides organic matter and essential

nutrients which are not supplied by
chemical fertilizers. Compost contains
macro and micro nutrients often absent in
synthetic fertilizers released slowly to plants.
7. Acts as buffer to changes in soil PH –
Compost buffers the soil, neutralizing both acid and
alkaline soils, bringing Ph Levels to the optimum
range for nutrient availability to plants.

8. Compost suppresses diseases and harmful

pests and adds diverse living organisms in the
soil. Compost enriched soil have lots of beneficial
insects, worms and other organisms (bacteria, fungi,
insects) that support healthy plant growth. When
proper heating is observed, compost kills bad
bacteria and seeds of harmful weeds.
9. Mature compost can quickly be part of the soil
Compost is a mixture of decomposed organic
materials that easily dissolves and return important
elements needed for the optimal growth of plants to
the soil.

10. Different materials can be blended or mixed

which can increase the nutrient content of the
compost fertilizer
TYPES OF COMPOST
1. Garden compost- these are made from weeds, grasses and
plants around us. These are best for organic farming.
2. Kitchen compost – these are from the kitchen wastes
generated from households/kitchens and are best for
ornamental plants.
3. Manure compost – compost produced from manure of
animals and livestock.

*Use of manure compost is discouraged because of the possibility of

contaminants such as colliform (pathogenic or bad bacteria) especially if the
source of the manure comes from non- organic poultry farms.
METHODS OF COMPOST MAKING
1. Rapid Method through Microbial Aide- done with
the aid of compost activators or microbes.
Decomposition of materials is accelerated to just 2-4
weeks.
2. Traditional or Natural Method – is a slow process,
requiring 3-4 months before the materials are fully
decomposed and ready for use as compost fertilizer.
3. Vermiculture/ Vermicomposting has also been
practiced recently by organic farmers. Composting in
this process is done with the aid of earthworms.
 Vermi Composting – use of earthworms as aid

Traditional and natural methods - use of animal manure

as aid.
Guide to Compost Production:
Key Considerations in Producing Fertile Soil
A well managed compost material will produce a
quality and safe soil enriching amendment. To
have quality compost, we must provide the right
environment.
Considerations:
1. Compost Site
2. Compost Materials
3. Compost Pile
1. COMPOST SITE
•The compost site should be near
the source of raw materials and
near the vegetable fields where
the compost is intended to be
applied.
•It should have a shed and
cemented floor if possible, to
prevent run-off of valuable
minerals. Exposure to sunlight
will cause nitrogen evaporation
and exposure to rain will wash
away the nutrients.
2. COMPOST MATERIALS
Do not be too selective in gathering
materials needed for composting. The
compost should not be limited to certain
plants or weeds such as sunflower, and
leguminous materials. A mixture of plants
will ensure complete nutrients and
minerals for the crops.
*Right Size- Shred or
chop materials for
easier and faster
decomposition.
Shredding helps
speed up
decomposition by
increasing the surface
area available for
microbial action and
for better aeration.
3. COMPOST PILE
 The compost pile should have a correct
mixture of Carbon to Nitrogen materials to
ensure proper decomposition.
 A good ratio of carbon materials to 1 part
nitrogen materials).
 A compost pile rich in carbon materials
results in slow decomposition while a compost
rich in nitrogen materials in a smelly compost
pile.
*Ensure proper aeration - beneficial microbes
need oxygen to thrive and properly decompose
materials. More microbes means faster
decomposition.
*Ensure enough moisture – microbes need
moisture to breakdown the materials of the
compost.
** A compost pile that is too dry will not heat up
because microbes are not active. A compost pile
with too much moisture will clog- up air holes
depriving microbes of oxygen.
*Proper Warmth/heat – dictates the speed of
decomposition of the compost pile. Heat
temperature of the compost pile should be at
50 oC to 70 Oc. Heat will kill weeds seeds and
bad bacteria.
*Right Volume- A compost pile should at least
have a minimum width of 1 meter and
minimum height of 1 meter. As mall voulne of
compost pile will result in an uneven
decomposition.
The following must not be included in the compost:

•Manure from pet animals like dogs and cats- these

are the source of harmful bacteria and viruses.
•Human wastes (urine and feces)
•Meat Scraps and bones- will attract animals and
could result in the scattering of the compost pile.
•Toxic Materials (batteries, colored inks, broken
fluorescent bulbs, paints and solvents, motor oil, etc.)
•Non- biodegrdable materials like plastic, bottles,
glass, tin cans.
Making the Compost
(Rapid Composting technique)

Step 1.
Gather the needed
materials. A mixture of
grasses and weeds available
in the farm ( example:
napier grass and wild
sunflower- Stalks and
leaves; leftovers after
harvest) will be good
materials for the compost.
 Step 2.
Shred the gathered materials. Microbes
can decompose smaller materials faster
and easier

Step 3 .
Pile the shredded materials. A
compost pile should at lest have a
minimum width of 1 meter and a
minimum height of 1 meter.
 Step 4 .
Spray the compost pile
with compost
activators. Compost
activators enhance the
rapid decomposition
of materials by
increasing the
multiplication of good
bacteria or microbes.
 Step 5 .
Cover the compost heap. The compost
heap is covered with plastic sheets, used
sacks, banana or coconut leaves- if placed
outside. This will help increase the
temperature and protect it from rain that
could leach the nutrients. However, if
there is a compost shed, there is no need
to cover the compost pile
 Step 6 .
Turn the compost
heap daily. Turning
the compost daily
will help maintain
heat which will result
in rapid and uniform
decomposition.
Step 7 Step 7 .

In between turnings. Check the moisture if it is too dry or too

wet. The compost pile must have proper moisture. To check it,
you have to squeeze the material. If it spread or cannot be
compacted, it lacks proper moisture.. It should become whole or
easily formed into a ball when squeezed. If water drips, there is
too much moisture.
 Step 8 .
Monitor the temperature. An ordinary
thermometer can be used or you can improvise
a metal road to monitor temperature of the
compost. Insert the metal rod in the compost
pile. After 2 hours, pull it up. Try to hold the
metal rod. If the part that is inserted is too hot
to hold, the desired temperature has been
reached. But, if you can easily hold it, your
compost lacks the required temperature.
 Step 9.
14th day- Compost is ready for harvest. Compost is
usually harvested around 2-4 weeks after turning or
rotation of the compost heap.

Step 10
Compost application.
Broadcast compost as basal fertilizer before final
harrowing during land preparation
4 Reasons Why the Compost Pile Doesn’t
Heat Up
1. The 30:1 carbon- nitrogen ratio is not properly
followed.
2. Lack of moisture or too much moisture
3. The size is too small. The required size for the
compost pile should be one meter both for it’s
height and width.
4. Lack of microbes- This implies that vthe compost
pile lacks inoculants to enhance the populations of
the microbes.
 PLANNING A COMPOST AREA
1. Consider proximity to planting area
and source of materials.
2. Ideal if covered with cemented
flooring
3. Protected from stray dogs and cats.
 IMPROVING SOIL FERTILITY through
Mulching

MULCHING – biodegradable materials

 IMPROVING SOIL FERTILITY through
Green Manuring
GREEN MANURING- application of fresh green
materials in the soil.

 DO NOT USE WEEDS OR GRASSES THAT SPROUTS

NEW SHOOTS FROM THE NODES OR WEEDS SND
GRASSES WITH MATURED SEEDS
 MAINTAIN SOIL FERTILITY
A. CROP ROTATION
B. BIO- DIVERSITY- multi cropping, intercropping,
companion planting and cover cropping
C. MINIMUM TILLAGE
*Enhance the rhythm of life in the soil and
around the farm; do not necessarily disturb
the ecological balance.
D. IMPLEMENT SOIL EOSION CONTROL
MEASURES, WIND AND WATER
 Prepare Vermicomposting area and raw
materials
Selecting site

•Good drainage system

•Availability of water supply
•Proximity to the source of raw
materials
•Accessibility of the composting
site
•Area of minimum contamination
•Area with minimal light
Site Lay-out
Wormbins/wormbeds
made of any material available
whether iron bars with plastic
lining, old plastic basins, bamboo
slats or hollow blocks.
the advantage of wormbins/
wormbeds is that they are movable
and can be transferred.
Substrate is placed in the
wormbeds where the worms feed
on them.
Windrows
are piles of substrate that are
decomposed before feeding
them to the worms.
they are usually about 1 meter
wide and at least 1 meter high
and can be any length desired or
practicable.
they have also to be covered either by plastic material
or any organic material that will protect the substrate and
ultimately the worms from the elements and natural
predators.
Housing structures

best options but are

also the most expensive
so will be considered
when finances permit
Bed Preparation

•Shaded
•Free from predators
•near to the water source.
•Arrange the hollow blocks making a bed of 1m x 3m
and put bamboo stakes to strengthen the bed.
• Used sacks and nylon net could be used as matting.
•Other materials
*Water and water sprinklers
*Plastic sheet to cover the bed.
 Gathering Raw materials
Source and Quality
• Animal manure, be sure that the animals were not dewormed.
• Free from harmful insecticides, fungicide and herbicides which
may also decimate your worm population
Carbon 70%: Nitrogen30% (C:N)
• Carbon (Banana bracts, rice hull, grass)
• Nitrogen (Leguminous plant)
Size of the materials
• The smaller the materials being composted, the faster the
process.
• Mix well and shred
• Wet the mixture so it feels like a damp sponge.
Vermicomposting
is a method of making compost, with the use of
earthworms, which generally live in soil, eat biomass
and excrete it in digested form.

African Night Crawler

Eudrilus eugeniae
Compost worm has the following characteristics:
It is a true hermaphrodite.
When two worm comes together, they get
pregnant.
The African night crawlers when sexually
mature breed every week and the resultant
cocoon capsule can produce from 2-10 worms.
It was observed that in six months, 1,000
sexually mature worms produce 30,000 on the
low side. On the high side, it can go up to
120,000.
One worm divided by 2 equals 1. Only the
part where the vital organs are found will
regenerate. The other half will die.

 Worm are hard working, unpaid, silent and

efficient workers. They do not demand pay
increases nor to form unions. There is no
learning curve for them because they work as
soon as they are born. All they ask for are goo
working, living and eating conditions. They eat
their weight per day.
 Vermicomposting Process

Animal Manure-IMO-Carbon-Nitrogen-
Animal Manure-IMO- Carbon-Nitrogen-
Animal Manure- IMO-Carbon-Nitrogen-
Animal Manure-IMO
 Decomposition Process
Anaerobic Decomposition
• Place the substrate in containers as airtight as possible
or cover it with plastic sheet.
• This is the anaerobic process which is to hasten the
decomposition.
• This is composting without air, hence the name.
• This stage may last from 1 week depending upon the
quantity being processed and the size of the particles.
• The substrate is ready for use when the temperature
has dropped to ambient levels and you can see the
appearance of white mushroom.
Aerobic Decomposition
• When the substrate has cooled down, place the
substrate in appropriate containers or remove the
plastic sheet in the bed.
• This next phase is called the aerobic stage or
composting with air

Monitoring Compost
• Maintain a humidity of 80% (squeezing, 5-7 drops of water)
• Protect the worms from natural predators
• Shade the worms from direct sunlight
• Loosen the substrate gently and do not allow it to get
compacted.
 Harvesting Compost
Practical tip: Compost is ready to use when it is dark
brown, crumbly and has earthly smell.

OPTIONS:
a. Pick the worms by hand and transfer them to a new worm
bed. The vermicompost may be allowed to dry in the shade for
a few days and then sifted if a finer is desired.
b. In the shade, pile the vermicompost in such a manner that it
looks like a pyramid. After a day, you can harvest the top part
easily because the worms have gone to the bottom of the pile.
When you reach the bottom of the pile, you can extract the
worms manually.
 c. Move the contents of the whole bed to one side. Fill the
empty half with new substrate. Allow the worms to move
freely to the new food. Harvest the castings left by the worms.
d. Fill an onion bag with fresh food and bury it in the middle of
the bed. After a week or so, the bag will be filled with worms
which you can empty to a new wormbed.
e. Place a net on top of the bed and place a 5 cm layer of fresh
substrate on top. You can delay harvesting for about a week
(depending on the volume of worms in the bed)because the
worms will transfer to the new food.

Practical Tip: To check if it is 30% humidity, place some vermicompost in your hand
and squeeze to form a ball. Open your palm and apply some pressure with the index
finger of the other hand. If the ball breaks easily into two to three parts, that is
about 30% humidity. If the ball crumbles easily, that is less than 30%. If your finger
leaves and imprint on the ball and the ball breaks, that is more than 30%.
 Application of the Vermicompost
Basal

Top Dressing

Potting Mix

Basal And Foliar fertilizer

Organic Fertilizer vs. Chemical-based Fertilizer
Properties of Soil Organic Fertilizer Chemical-based Fertilizer
Improves structure by adjusting Destroy soil structure
the arrangement of soil particles
Soil become porous Soil become compact and hard due to
Physical Property fillers present in the material
For light texture soil, it increase No contribution on the improvement of
water holding capacity while for the water holding capacity of the soil
heavy textured soil, easy to drain
Adds organic macro and micro No organic matter addition
nutrients
Provides both macro and Contains 1-4 elements and mostly
Chemical Property micronutrients macronutrients only
Improves soil pH Contributes to the acidity of the soil

Lower toxicity level of

micronutrients

Biological Property Increase population density of

beneficial microorganism
Kills most of beneficial microorganisms in
the soil
Record Keeping
Manufacturing date
Expiry date
Quantity
Moisture content
Nutritional composition
 Processing Organic Foliar Fertilizer
1. Prepare a 60- liter capacity container with aeration
facility .
[Link] 50 liters of clean water in the container.
3. Aerate the water in 30 minutes
4. Put 3 kgs. of Vermicast inside the tea bag and place
inside the container.
5. Pour 500 ml of molasses in the aerated container.
6. Add IMO (50ml) after 30 minutes then cover.
7. Harvest after 24 hours of continuous aeration and use
the prepared foliar fertilizer within 24 hours.