Lecture 8 (Knitting Introduction)
Introduction to Fabric
Manufacturing
Knitting
o Second most popular technique
of fabric formation
o Fabric formation by inter-
looping
o Straight continuous length
of yarn is bent into loops
and
o those loops are interlooped
for fabric formation
o Continuous length of yarn is
converted vertically into
intermeshed loop either by
hand or machine
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Interlooping
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Knitting Major Exports Apparel
Men's &
ladies T-
shirts
Night shirts
Boxer sets
for ladies
Major Exports
Men's
Jogging suit
pyjama
Sportswear
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BASIC TERMINOLOGIES
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Loop
o Basic unit of knitted
structure
o Three Parts
o A head (H)
o 2 side limbs or legs (L).
o A foot (F), at the base
of each leg
o Yarn passes through
the head of the loop
formed at the
previous knitting
cycle.
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Loop Types
o Open loop
o The open loop is one in
which loop forming
yarn does not cross at
bottom of loop.
o Closed loop
o In closed loop, legs of
loop cross so loop
closing takes place
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Loop Types
o Face loop New
Loop
o In face loop legs of
new loop pass over
the head of old loop Old
Loop
New o Back loop
Loop
o In back loop head of
old loop pass over the
Old legs of new loop
Loop
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Courses
• Series of loops, connected
horizontally
• Courses per unit length is
course density,
• measured in cpi (course/inch)
or cpcm(course/cm)
Wales
• Series of loops
intermeshing vertically
• Wales per unit length
is wale density,
• measured in
wpi(course/inch) or
wpcm(course/cm)
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Technical Face
• The side of the
knitted fabric consist
of Face Knit Loops
Technical Back
• The side of knitted
fabric consist of
Back Knit Loops
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o Stitch length
o length of the yarn in the knitted loop.
o measured in millimetre
o control properties of knitted fabrics
o generally longer the stitch length, the
more open and lighter the fabric.
o Stitch density
o Total number of loops in a given area.
o Is the product of Courses and Wales per
unit length
o measured in units of loops per square
centimetre or loops per square inch .
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PROPERTIES &
APPLICATIONS
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Properties
o Knitted Fabric are popular for their
o Shape fitting property,
o Soft handle,
o Bulkier nature and
o High extension at low tension.
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Clothing’s
• Vests , Sweaters and pullover Cardigan (we)
• Gloves(we), Socks(we), Tights(wa,we)
• Seamless garments (wa, we)
• Undergarments (Wa,we)
Home and furnishing
• Curtain(wa)
• Uphostery (we)
• Blanket(we)
• Terry towel (wa,we)
Technical
•Medical(stocking, compression bandages)
(wa,we)
•Automotive(seat upholstery, roofing,
filtration, composites)(wa,we)
•Packaging and mosquito nets, filtration
(wa,we)
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WOVEN VS KNITTED
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Weaving Knitting
Produced by interlacement of yarn Produce by interlooping of yarn
Minimum Two Sets of yarn is Minimum one yarn is required
required for warp and weft
Sizing is required Don't require sizing
Production is lower Production is higher
Production cost is higher Production cost is less
Elasticity and stretch ability is poor Good elasticity and stretch ability
Dimensional stability is higher Dimensional stability is lower
Thick and wind resistant Cool and breathable
Holds a crease well Wrinkle resistant
More durability Less durability
Harsher Softer
less moisture absorption More moisture absorption
Less air permeability More air permeability
Lengthy processing route(singeing, Short processing route( scouring, 20
On the basis of direction of movement of
yarn w.r.t to the direction of fabric
formation
CLASSIFICATION
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Single jersy Purl
Weft Knitted
Knitted Fabrics
Double jersy Rib
Tricot Interlock
Milanese
Simplex
Warp Knitted Raschel
Ketten Raschel
Corchet
Weft Insertion
warp
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Weft Knitting
o If the yarns run in the width or crosswise
direction with reference to the direction of
fabric formation during knitting, then the
process of knitting is called weft knitting
Fabric Formation
Yarn run in width
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Weft knitting machine
o Flat ( gloves and fully fashioned machine )
o Circular ( socks , single and double jersey
machine)
Circular Knitting m/c Flat Knitting m/c
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Weft knitting machine
Socks m/c Gloves m/c
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