A.

LAYING OUT PATTERN PIECES FOR LADIES

BLOUSE
This lesson will guide you on how to lay out a pattern on your
fabric. It will also show you how to transfer the marking pattern
and symbols onto the fabric.
Pattern Layout It is the placement and arrangement of pattern
pieces on the materials for marking and cutting.
In laying out the pattern pieces on the fabric, study the
directions of the fibers that are woven into the fabric. It is the
grainline of the fabric. This is where the pattern pieces are laid out.
To locate the grainline, one should be familiar with the following
parts of the woven fabric.
1. Selvage – This is the finished side edges of the fabric. It is
tightly woven to avoid unravelling. Sometimes it is where the
brand name is printed. This is also spelled as selvedge.
2. Lengthwise grain – This is known as the warp which runs
parallel to the selvage and the strongest grainline with least
amount of stretch.
3. Crosswise grain – This is known as weft. This runs from
selvedge to selvedge.
General Layout of a Pattern
1. Patterns must be checked well before laying them on the cloth.
2. Examine all the necessary pattern symbols before laying them
on the cloth.
3. Follow the correct lay out diagram, fold the fabric as directed
and spread squarely and smoothly on the cutting table.
4. Choose the longest cutting table to prevent the fabric from
hanging over the edge of table.
5. Lay out all the pattern pieces required to ensure that there is
sufficient fabric.
6. Check the position of each piece, so that the necessary pieces
are placed to the fold and that the straight threads are parallel with
the markings for the straight thread.
7. Pin the pattern in place with the pins near the seam allowance
and at the right angles to the edges.
8. Mark the stitching lines before cutting.
9. Lay out the largest pattern piece first on the wrong side of the
material.
10. Lay the small pattern pieces and pin them in vacant places.
Pinning Pins used in dressmaking are made of steel or brass
with a tin coating. The types of pins used in dressmaking:
1. Dressmaker’s pin is of medium size 1/16 inches long.
2. Glass-headed pins are easy to handle.
3. Lace pins or silk pins It is 1 inch long, finest size with sharp
points and used for lightweight fabrics.
4. T-pins stay in position in an open woven fabrics.
5. Safety pins
Laying out pattern for facing
Laying out front pattern
piece
Laying out back bodice
B. PINNING PATTERN TO THE CLOTH:
 
1. Be sure the pattern piece is placed on the straight grain by
measuring the grain from the fabric’s edge.
2. After measuring the grain line, smooth the tissue and place
pins diagonally towards the corners of the pattern.
3. Then place pins where necessary to keep the pattern pieces
flat for cutting.
Marking In doing this marking details, we have to learn the
various marking tolls needed. What to mark? All details should be
marked; however, these are not shown by notches or clips when
long straight edges are left unmarked stitching guide is used to
keep seams even.
Construction details to be marked:
1. Seam lines
2. Center lines along closing
3. Fold lines
4. Position for ease or gathers
5. Position for pockets
6. Buttonholes and buttons
7. Slash line
8. Point where stitching line should stop
C. HOW TO TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS
 
Before transferring the marks onto the fabric, check the
correct measurements, follow directions, and set sharp pins or
make a chalk mark at the exact point indicated. To mark cutting
lines with chalk, lay your ruler or yard stick carefully on perfectly
smooth fabric, marking the line exactly from point to point. For
circular cutting lines, use tracing wheel to achieve greater
accuracy in measurement, the fabric to avoid confusion and as to
where the marks should be properly placed.
 An expert sewer need not to transfer every single mark onto the
fabric, but for beginners like you, there is a need to transfer every
mark onto
1. Place the garment and the pattern piece on top of the tracing
paper.
2. Mark straight lines using the tracing wheel. Get over lines only
once.
3. The tip of darts should be indicated with a short line.
4. Remove the pattern piece then place the pins back.
5. Work on the other side of the fabric, re-trace over previous lines
to transfer the other half of the garment.
Marking darts and pocket location For a good fitting, darts may be
used in ladies blouse and skirts. Dart is a fold in the fabric stitch
wider at one end and tapering to the other end. It is used to give
fullness or shape to the garments. Pocket is a small piece of cloth
attached to the garment, which serves as a holder of items such
as money, wallet and handkerchief. It also serves as decoration on
the garments. Accuracy in tracing the marks of the location of darts
and pockets in necessary.
Marking dart location:
1. Mark the stitching lines and the line through the center known
as fold line.
2. Mark a line at right angle to the point of the dart. Mark the
centreline before marking the two side lines to prevent the pattern
from shifting
The following markings should be carefully identified while
transferring the marks onto the fabric.
[Link] – These are small triangular markings which are used
to match fabric pieces together.
2. Darts – instead of drawing all the lines of a dart on your fabric,
snip the ends into the seam allowance of the fabric and mark the
point with a pencil or water-or air-soluble fabric marker.
3. Center points – this is the midpoint or center of a piece of
garment, such as collar or sleeve. Mark the fabric by snipping into
the seam allowance at the centers of the pieces.
4. Buttonholes lines -
Marking tools are required for transferring pattern markings to
garment fabric pieces and for making alternations on garments.
There are various types of marking tools:
 1. Tailor’s chalk This is essential as a marker
for use on materials. Tailor’s chalk is available
in a range of colors and is removed by
brushing.

2. Wax chalk This is available in black or white and is used for

woollen fabrics. Wax can be removed by pressing.
 

3. Dressmaker’s pencil This is available in

white or pastel shades. This chalk pencil is
used to make fine lines on fabric. It has an
erasing brush at one end.
 4. Tracing wheel It is a saw-tooth with a sharp
point. This tool is used to transfer pattern
markings to the wrong side of the fabric. This
is used with the dressmaker’s carbon paper

5. Dressmaker’s carbon paper This type of

tracing paper is available in a number of colors
including white, red and blue. It is used in
marking all types of fabric in combination with a
tracing wheel. This work is best on plane, flat-
surfaced fabrics.
6. Liquid marking pen This is felt-tip liquid
marking pen. Marks may disappear after 48
hours, and the other washes out
The marking tips:
1. Marking is done on the wrong side of the fabric.
2. Pattern symbols are transferred on the wrong side of the fabric
after cutting and before the patterns are removed.
3. Construction symbols and marks for placement of details
should be transferred.
In cutting the fabric, it is best to used good shears with 7” or 8” blades.
Always cut with long even strokes, following exactly the cutting lines. Use
short strokes and the points of the shears when cutting short spaces and in
turning corners as shown in the pattern. Cut the fabric flat on the cutting
table which is free of any obstacles. Use the other hand to hold the fabric
in position while cutting some parts of it. In cutting folded fabric, place pins
within to hold the two pieces firmly. Do not place the pins on the cutting
lines.
 Cut lining and interfacing at the same time. There are times
that the fabric is slippery like silk, it is necessary to lay tissue
down first to serve as an anchor, pin the silk on top, place your
pattern on top of the silk. Cut through all the layers to have
accurate set of fabric pieces. It is good practice to iron the pieces
to tissue pattern before cutting them together with the fabric.
There are times that the fabric is so delicate and pin holes
from pins might ruin the appearance of the fabric, avoid using pins
instead use weights and place them at the corners of the pattern
pieces.
When cutting the pattern pieces, do not lift the scissors from
the table; keep the bottom blade fixed, gliding the top blade
carefully. Make your cutting continuous.