PATTERNMAKING TERMS:
• Basic pattern set: A five-piece pattern set, consisting of a front and
back bodice, a skirt, and a long sleeve, which represents the
dimensions of a specific form or figure. It is developed without design
features.
Basic block
• A sloper pattern or block pattern (industrial
production) is a custom-fitted, basic pattern from
which patterns for many different styles can be
developed.
The process of changing the size of a finished pattern is
called grading.
• Sloper/master/block/basic pattern making: A pattern of
a garment, without style lines, or seam allowance
developed from specific measurements of a given size,
dress forms.
– Used as tool from which other patterns may be developed, to
facilitate the development of original styles and to develop
various bodices, skirt, dress, pants, sleeve designs.
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• Blending and Trueing:
Blending is the process of smoothing and shaping
angular and curved lines on a seam to create a nice
transition.
Trueing patterns is the process of checking and
correcting seam lines, shapes, and measurements on a
pattern.
It’s the process of making sure the seams of two
adjoining pattern pieces equal, making sure both legs of a
dart are the same length, and making sure that shapes are
smooth as they continue through different seams.
FABRIC TERMS:
• Grain: The direction in which the yarn is woven or
knitted (lengthwise grain, or warp; crosswise grain,
or weft).
• Bias: A slanting or diagonal line cut or sewn across the
weave of the cloth.
• True bias: The angle line that intersects with lengthwise
and crosswise grains at 45 degree.
• Bowing and skewing:
When weft yarns are even at two edges but arched
across the middle is called bowing.
When weft yarns are straight from one end to other
but angled across the width of the fabric is called skewing.
DART TERMS:
• Bust point: A designated place on the bust and pattern and
referred to in flat patternmaking as the pivotal point or
apex.
• Dart: A wedge-shaped cutout in a pattern to control the fit
of a garment. They convert the flat piece of cloth into a
three dimensional form.
• Dart intake: The amount of excess (or space) confined
between dart legs. Its purposes are to take up excess where
it is not needed, and to gradually release fabric where it is
needed to control the fit of the garment.
• Dart legs: The two lines that converge at a predetermined
point on the pattern.
Dart types
• Single Dart Pattern: A single dart is used for
entire suppression/control required. Dart ends
½" away from the bust point.
• Two Dart Pattern: A pattern with two darts
either in a skirt or bodice. Waist dart is ¾" to 1"
away from the bust point.
Style lines
• Princess style line
• Panel style line
• Empire line
• Dress form: A standardized duplication of a human form, cotton
padded and canvas covered, set on a movable, light adjustable stand
and compressible shoulders and sloper. It is used to take
measurements, develop patterns, fit garment samples, to alter
garments, to establish style lines for the garment.
Methods of Pattern Making
Pattern making involves three methods:
• Drafting
• Draping
• Flat paper patternmaking
Drafting: It involves measurements derived from sizing
systems or accurate measurements taken on a person,
dress or body form.
• Measurements for chest, waist, hip and so on, and ease
allowances are marked on paper and construction lines are
drawn to complete the pattern. Drafting is used to create
basic, foundation or design patterns.
Draping:
• Draping is an artistic approach in which the person makes pattern by
positioning and pinning fabric on a dress form to develop the structure of a
garment design.
• Fashion draping and fitting are usually done with muslin (an inexpensive,
unbleached, loosely woven cotton) to resolve any design and fitting issues
of a garment before cutting the pattern in real fabric.
• However, it is important to drape using a fabric that has similar drape
characteristics (the way it falls and folds) as the real fabric of the finished
garment.
• Muslin comes in a variety of weights, and inexpensive synthetic fabrics can
also be used in fitting and draping for apparel design.
• It involves the draping of a two dimensional piece of fabric around a form,
conforming to its shape, creating a three-dimensional fabric pattern.
• Advantage of draping is that the designer can see the overall design effect
of the finished garment on the body form before the garment piece is cut
and sewn. However, it is more expensive and time consuming than flat
pattern making.
• Flat Pattern Making:
Flat pattern method is the technique of developing
patterns for varied styles by modifying a basic
pattern
• Basically through flat pattern method a basic
pattern is created and this is used to create various
other new designs by manipulating it in different
ways specific for a particular design.
Types of Pattern
Working pattern:
• Working pattern is that which is used as a base for
manipulation when generating design patterns.
First pattern:
• The original pattern developed for each design. This
pattern is generally made from marking paper and usually
requires fitting and adjustments.
Production Pattern:
• It is one kinds of pattern set that has been perfected and
corrected and contains every pattern piece require to
complete the garment. Production pattern is normally
used by the grader for grading sizes and by the marker
maker for a preparing fabric layout.
