Inching towards Lean Manufacturing

Prepared By: Cutting Process Improvement

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Orientation Analysis of Cost Cutting Process Flow (Material & Info Flow) Performance Matrix Planning Cost Reduction Cut Order Planning Material Utilization Labor Aspects & Role of Management in Cutting Introduction to Gerber Cutting Quality role & Modern Concept Cutting KPI's & Visibility

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Cutting is the Heart Foundation for Fabric Planning Most vital for material saving Feeding point of the sewing, the most important division Any imperfection can result in quality issues

Prepared By: Cutting Process Improvement

Prepared By: Cutting Process Improvement

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Prepared By: Cutting Process Improvement

Layout Planning

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Marker Planning
Planning Procedure

Motive Apparel Planning Marker Verification & Improvement Consumption Verification and Change in Fabric Demand Marker Efficiency Calculation Factors
Width Style Technology (Manual, Computerized, Auto) Skills Fabric Quality

Marker Vs Lay Efficiency

Prepared By: Cutting Process Improvement

Spreading

Manual Spreading Auto Spreading

Open Spreaders Tubular Spreaders

Cutting

Lay Lengths

Manual Cutting
Height Marker Margins Height Marker Margins

Auto Cutting

Bundling

Die Cut Roll to Roll Bundling Band Wise Bundling Size Vs Piece Bundling Vs Marker Making
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Embellishment Section Cutting Inspection Apparel Audit Inspection Barcode Generation Auto Placket Section Dispatch to Apparel

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1.
2. 3.

4.
5.

Output Productivity Efficiency Performance Utilization

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Output
A tool to measure ratio between INPUT and OUTPUT

Absolute Term for measuring quantity in units or pieces Talks about quantity only Used when all the variables are same as it does not consider variable factor i.e.
Floor
Floor A Floor B

Output
9000 kg 7000Kg

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Productivity
An other tool to measure ratio between INPUT and OUTPUT

A tool of comparison when product is same but Input variables are different It cant compare different products Limited use due to above limitation

Unit Productivity

= Pcs /hr/DL(Operator) = Out Put/DL*Time

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Efficiency
Ratio of SAM Produced (Output) and Man Minutes (Input)

Bes tool for measurement as it consider different product profiles and factor of production Measures both operators skill and Managements effectiveness Good factories work at 70%

Efficiency %
SAM Produced Man Minutes

= SAM Produced / Man Minutes 100

= SAM Output = DL Clock Time

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Performance
Ratio of SAM Produced and On-Standard Time

Best tool for measurement as it consider different product profiles and factor of production Measures operator's Skill Good factories work at 90-95%

Performance%
SAM Produced On-Standard Time

= SAM Produced / On-Standard Time 100

= SAM Output = Clock Time - Breakdowns

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Utilization
Ratio of On-Standard and Clock time in minutes Very important factor telling how is capacity being utilized

Utilization%
Efficiency %

= On-Standard Time / Clock time 100

= Performance% Utilization%

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Time taken by a standard operator using specific or standard method to do a particular job with all the allowances factored in. Mathematically

Standard Operator Rating Allowances Basic Time

Operators Time

Shift Time Clock Time Off-Standard Time On-Standard Time

Factor
SAM (Per Variable Per Team) SAM (Per Variable Per Person)

Calculation
= ASCT * Rating % * ( 1+ PF% + MD% ) = ASCT * Rating % * ( 1+ PF% + MD% ) * D.L

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Steps in Study

Observe the job and break into elements Use the stop watch to time each element (ASCT) Rate each element by comparing with standards Multiply each element with rating to get basic time Average each basic time to get operations Basic Minute Add personnel and machine fatigues to get SAM for the activity

Prepared By: Cutting Process Improvement

Calculation Of SAM

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Usage Of SAM

Calculation of Output Targets, Machines and Man Power Setting Piece Rates, Cost sheets & Quotas Capacity Study Preparing Operations Bulletin Line Balancing Setting up training programs based on TNA

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Material Saving
Direct Material Indirect Material

Time Resources Saving Elimination of MUDA

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Direct Material Saving

Improving fabric Utilization% or Yield% by studying the factors effecting it can save the direct material cost

Factors Effecting Utilization are

Small Waste (20.40%)

Marker Waste (17.09%)

Difference in style remains the major factor in marker efficiency variations Improper width against plan width Pin holes, Sinker Line, Winder Line Block/Close Piece Markers due to shade problem Marker Ratio Problems Skill set of marker maker Within Roll/Roll To Roll Width Variations Compactor Marks & Crease on edges Extra spreading margins in width or length Same marker width planning against all rolls instead of working as per COP

Spreading Waste (4.12%)

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Large Waste (4.5%)

Faults analysis, cause increase in large waste

Cutting shapes rejection

Gerber Cutter Problem on Auto Floors

Marker making problem

Maintenance Problem with cutting machine Shaper negligence during manual cutting

Panels/Garment Rejection after Cutting (1.10%)

Panel rejection at bundling and inspection due to fabric faults
Panel rejection at bundling and inspection due to miss shapes

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In-Direct Material Saving

FOH Factors
Accessories & Packing Material Fuel & Power Tools & Spare Parts Dyes & Chemicals etc Alternative Material Alternative Vendor Recycling/Reusability or Recyclable Material Improved Usage Multipurpose use Usage of by-products etc
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Techniques

Time Resources Saving

Strength Rationalization Crew Analysis Table Utilization / Machine Utilization

SMED/Changeover Analysis
Performance% Improvement Utilization% Improvement Method Improvement Process Cycle Efficiency

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Strength Rationalization
Steps

Observe & enlist the activities Record activities time Consider Breaks and Human Factor Observe Capacity & Maximum frequency of the job Rationalize the activities being performed Calculate & Compare Required Vs Actual Minutes Define strength Add reliever if necessary

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Crew Analysis
When activities are performed in groups Observe and enlist the activities Record time & people engaged in each activity Summarize Productive & Non Productive time of each person of

the crew Summarize Productive & Non Productive time against each activity Calculate the crew required

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Table / Machine Utilization

Location identification Recording of ON/Off-Standard time Reasons against Off-Standard PDCA & Standardize

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Single Minute Exchange Of Dies (SMED)

The time elapsed between when the last good piece of product A comes off and the first good piece of product B starts is called Changeover Time
SMED: Single Minute Exchange of Die Concept that says all setups should and can take less than 10 minutes
OTED: One Touch Exchange of Die Concept that says all setups should and can take less than 100 seconds!

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Steps
Observe & Record Separate internal & External Activities Convert Internal to External Activities Streamline all Activities Document Internal & External Procedures

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All Setup E
I

Activities E
I

Run E
Internals I

Run Run Externals

Externals

Post-setup externals

Externals

Internals

Run

Externals

Internals

Run

Externals

Internals

Run

Externals

Internals

Run

Internals Externals Prepared By: Cutting Process Improvement

Run

Warm Changeover
The concepts states that, every individual should start his work from the same point, end by the previous individual.

Minimized preparation time

Less floor space required Less money tied up in inventory Less labor required to manage the inventory Less scrap due to part obsolescence Less cycle time or lead time to accomplish a job

Prepared By: Cutting Process Improvement

Down Time Reduction

A period of time when something (as a machine or operator) is not operating (especially as a result of malfunctions or decision making)
TIME SEGREGATION SIX BIG LOSSES
Breakdowns

Available time Available operating time

Actual operating time
Effective Operating time

Setup/ adjustment Idling/minor stoppages Speed Defects in process rework Start-up losses
Prepared By: Cutting Process Improvement

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Prepared By: Cutting Process Improvement

Lean Manufacturing
7-Wastage (TIMWOOD)
1. 2.

3.
4. 5. 6.

7.

Transportation Inventory Motion Waiting Over Production Over Processing Defects

Prepared By: Cutting Process Improvement

All planning of PO in terms of cutting layout before its execution in production. Process that coordinates PO with all variables of marker making, spreading and cutting to minimize the production cost and meet time line for demand in sewing.
Actually It includes: Advance Marker Making Theoretical Number of Layouts Shade Bands Number of Plies required per lay

Prepared By: Cutting Process Improvement

Marker Making Requires Info

Size Ratio Cutable Width

Shade confirmation
Problematic Fabric info Roll Weight

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What it helps
Material Saving Time Saving Less Fatigue Effective use of Labor, equipment, Fabric and Space

Improve Marker Efficiency

Multiple working on Same marker to get optimum results

Reduction of Material Waste

Already Made Markers

Zero ReMarking

Prepared By: Cutting Process Improvement

Fabric Saving
Roll based Planning for optimum fabric utilization Handling problematic fabric in a better way Focused Markers

Time Saving
2-3 Lays/Lot accumulates to 1.5hr Start up time reduction to improve Process cycle Efficiency

Labor Saving
Following the fixed ratio

Pre-planned Markers

Space & Equipment Saving

Table, Floor and Machines can be planned accordingly

Prepared By: Cutting Process Improvement

Piece Planning Lay Planning Basic lay Planning Procedure Cut Planning Loading the cutting section Seasonal Planning Target Setting Case study

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Major Functions
Before Production
Planned Consumption Analysis (Before Go-ahead)
Stripe fixations Size wise ratio fixation Marker fixation Analysis & Impact Amended pattern Considering Actual floor margins Confirmation of nesting specs Impact and Ok for bulk production

Consumption Analysis Operations (After Go-ahead)

After Production
GGT Operations Working
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Sr.# Marker Type 1 2 3 Normal Marker Sectional Marker Paired Marker

Reason Scramble marker making To avoid shading in garment Paired marker making for asymmetrical garment components

4
5 6 7 8

One Garment in One Direction

One Size in One Direction Sequence Marker Dump Line Marker

Due to suedding effect, we place one garment in one direction

In Pique fabric, we put one size in one direction To follow the stitching sequence and roll wise bundling To avoid the line in fabric (At edges, within or center of the width)

All Garments in One Direction Specific for Directional printed fabric

Prepared By: Cutting Process Improvement

Tables
Manual Tables AFT tables
Spreader movement table Railing encoder tape Air blowers

Spreader (Speed 14.5mtr/min, Break 50%)

Fabric Platform Operator platform Cradle portion Cutting device (knife motor, pulling motor, material clump) Elevator Edge Sensor (Edge aligner) Eye Sensor (fixed at center) LCD Screen Info (Length, Speed, sharpening control, calibration control)
Prepared By: Cutting Process Improvement

Gerber Cutter

Cutting Speed (10*80=800inch/min) Vacuum motor(4.5) Knife motor (complete knife system movement) Fry wheel Sharpening assembly Articulator (for knife up down) Resealer Bristol

Manual Cutters Band Saw

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CIDB Report

Shift Time Clock time Number of Markers Processed Total Bites Cut Total Cakes Cut Run Time (Sum of 1-5)
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

Estimated Changeover (No of Marker * Changeover time/Marker) Run Time % Utilization % (Run Time + Changeover Time)/ Clock Time

Cut Dry Haul Bite Dry run Sharpen Sleep Interrupt

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Quality Control involves monitoring specific project results to determine if they comply with relevant quality standards, and identifying ways to eliminate causes of unsatisfactory results Meeting Customer Requirements

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Evolution of Quality

Product Orientation

Process Orientation (1900-1940) Primary Focus: Process Control Shewhart analysis of data for Controlled process SQC charts Quality After World War-II (1941-1945) 100 % to Sampling invention Adaption of Sampling standards (Mil-Std-105) Backward planning Adaption of SQC TQM (1946-Onward)
Improving all organizational processes through the people who used them
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Primary Focus: Product Inspection

Audit Procedure

Take Job Card Select & Receive Sample Component checking as per trail run instructions Half fold shape inspection Specs inspection Shade inspection Component counting Repeat steps for Accessories
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TAKING JOB CARD & REPORT

SAMPLE SELECTION

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COMPONENT CHECKING

HALF FOLD SHAPE CHECKING

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SPECS INSPECTION

SHADE INSPECTION

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PIECES COUNTS

ACCESSORIES CHECKING

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Types Of Faults

Center Out Bottom Uneven Length -,+ Width -,+ Chest -,+ Extra Notches D Shaped Panels Panel Variation Shoulder Seem Variation Scissor Problem
Prepared By: Cutting Process Improvement

Prepared By: Cutting Process Improvement

Prepared By: Cutting Process Improvement

Prepared By: Cutting Process Improvement

Possible Reasons

Excess Lay Height Unsuitable Cutting Methods Ignorance / Negligence Lay Tension Lay Leaning Lay Mishandling Vacuum Pressure @ Gerber Cutter Blade Sharpness @ Gerber Cutter Scaling @ Gerber Cutter Cut Parameter@ Gerber Cutter Untrained Cutter Operators Improper placement Of pcs In GGT Markers
Prepared By: Cutting Process Improvement

Prepared By: Cutting Process Improvement

Prepared By: Cutting Process Improvement

Prepared By: Cutting Process Improvement

Prepared By: Cutting Process Improvement

Prepared By: Cutting Process Improvement

Prepared By: Cutting Process Improvement

Consumptions Efficiency % Spreading Loss % Large Waste % Fabric Utilization % Utilization% Overall Equipment Efficiency (OEE)

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Thanks
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