UNIT-I

• The basic component of textiles is the

Fibre which significantly influences the
structure, appearance, nature and
property of a textile. Since there are
different types of fibres present around
us, a variety of textiles can be produced
from them.
• The fibres, which form the subject matter of this lesson,
are the basis of clothing and therefore their importance
cannot be overemphasized.
• Textile fibres are hair-like substances with a high
degree of fineness, outstanding flexibility, reasonable
strength, a minimum level of length and cohesiveness
(ability to hold to one another, when placed side by
side).
• They may be short with a length at least 500 times (but
commonly 1000 to 3000 times) their diameter or
thickness or may be very long with the length to
diameter ratio being almost infinity. The short fibres are
called staple fibres while those with very long length are
called filaments.
• However, this distinction is generally not made and both
short fibres and continuous filaments are called fibres. In
this lesson the fibres will first be classified according to
their origin.
• This will be followed by a description of the growth of
natural fibres and manufacture of man-made fibres.
Some of the important characteristics will also be briefly
considered.
• Fiber- It is defined as one of the delicate, hair
portions of the tissues of a plant or animal or other
substances that are very small in diameter in
relation to their length. A fiber is a material which is
several hundred times as long as it’s thick.
• Textile Fiber:
Textile fiber has some characteristics which differ
between fiber to Textile fiber. Textile fiber can be
spun into a yarn or made into a fabric by various
methods including weaving, knitting, braiding,
felting, and twisting. The essential requirements for
fibers to be spun into yarn include a length of at
least 5 millimeters, flexibility, cohesiveness, and
sufficient strength. Other important properties
include elasticity, fineness, uniformity, durability,
and luster.
• Banana fiber is one kind of fiber but it is not a
textile fiber. Because it can not fill up the above
properties. So we can say that all fiber are not textile
fiber.
• Natural fiber.
• Manmade fiber.
Staple fiber and Filament fiber-Filament fibres
refer to fibres of long continuous lengths, while
Staples refer to those of shorter length, about a
few inches long

Natural Fiber
Natural fibers include those produced by plants,
animals, and geological processes. They are
biodegradable over time. They can be classified
according to their origin.
1) Animal (i.e., silk fiber and wool fiber);

2) Mineral (i.e., asbestos fiber); or

3) Vegetable origin (i.e., cotton fiber, flax

• Based on their origin, the fibres may be classified as
belonging to one of the following two categories:
Natural and Man-made. Natural fibres can be further
classified according to their origin into the following
three groups:
• i) Vegetable Fibres: Most of these are cellulose fibres
and include cotton, linen, jute, flax, ramie, coir, sisal
and hemp. Besides their use as textiles, cellulose fibres
are also used in the manufacture of paper and other
useful products like ropes, cords, coir mats, industrial
fabrics, etc.
• ii) Animal Fibres: They are mostly protein fibres and
include wool and silk. The only filament fiber that
occure in its natural stage is silk.
• iii) Mineral Fibres: Asbestos is the only naturally
occurring mineral fibre that was used extensively for
making industrial products but is now being gradually
phased out due to its suspected carcinogenic effect.
 It is also known as Manufactured fiber. Synthetic or man-
made fibers generally come from synthetic materials such as
petrochemicals. But some types of synthetic fibers are
manufactured from natural cellulose; including rayon, modal,
and the more recently developed Lyocell. A class name for
various genera of fibers (including filaments) produced from
fiber-forming substances which may be:
• (1) Polymers synthesized from chemical compounds,
e.g., acrylic fiber, nylon fiber, polyester fiber,
polyethylene fiber, polyurethane fiber, and polyvinyl fibers;
• (2) Modified or transformed natural polymers falls in the
category of re-generated fiber, e.g., alginate and cellulose-
based fibers such as acetates fiber and rayon fiber; and
• (3) Minerals, e.g., glasses. The term manufactured usually
refers to all chemically produced fibers fron a petrochemical
material to distinguish them from the truly natural fibers
such as cotton, wool, silk, flax, etc.e.g: Glass fiber.
 Normally properties of textile fiber are
three types:
A) Physical Properties
B) Mechanical Properties
C) Chemical Properties
 Length-A longer fibre length is preferred. Textile fibres
are either staple or filament length. Staple fibres range
from 2 to 46 cm; filament fibres are of infinite length.
 Fineness- The ratio between fibre mass and fibre length.
The main physical unit of fibre fineness is 1 tex,.The
fineness determine how many fibres are present in the
cross-section of a yarn of given thickness. minimum thirty
fibres are needed at the cross-section.
 Crimp- Fiber crimp is also can be called as the waviness of
a fiber expressed as waves or crimps per unit length
 Maturity- a fibre characteristic which
expresses the relative degree of thickening
of the fibre wall. Determines the quality of
the fibre
 Luster- lustre is a physical property that
makes them appear bright, glossy, and
shiny. The amount of light reflected from the
surface of a fibre
 Softness- Softness is one of the fabric
features felt when a person touches, rubs, or
presses the fabric with their hands or fingers.
•Resiliency- Resiliency is the ability of a fibre to bounce
back to shape following compression, bending or similar
deformation. Wool and silk fabrics are more resilient.
•Work of rupture- Work of rupture, sometimes called
toughness, is the energy needed to break a fibre or fabric. It
gives a. measurement for the ability of the material to
withstand sudden shocks of given energy.
•Density- Fibre density plays a direct part in affecting the
weight of fabrics. The position at which the sample floats
due to its neutral buoyancy indicates the density of the
sample.
•Appearance- Each textile fibre offers a
distinct cross sectional appearance when
seen under a microscope. The shapes vary
from round to oval and flat, different shapes
determines certain characteristics of the
textiles. Cross section appearance
determines the lustre of the fabric.
•Flexibility- the ability to resist permanent
deformation under bending, lateral stress
and strain.
•Toughness- The ability of a material to
absorb energy and plastically deform without
• Strength-Tensile strength is the
maximum load that a material can support
without fracture when being stretched
• Elasticity-elasticity is the ability to return
to normal length after a stretch.
• Extensibility-extensibility is the ability to
be stretched or to increase in length
• Rigidity-rigidity is the stiffness of a textile
fibre
Moisture Regain-Moisture regain is expressed as
percentage. It is the ratio of oven dry weight of
a material to the weight of water in this material
and multiple of hundred.
Moisture Content-Moisture content is also
expressed as percentage. It the ratio of oven dry
weight of a material to the total weight (oven
dry weight + weight of water in this material) of
the material.
Absorbency-Normally, textile fibres absorb
moisture. The ability of fibre to take up the
moisture is known as absorbency.
 Cotton fibre is a natural, soft and fluffy
staple fibre that is harvested from the
seedpods of the cotton plant.
Cotton fibres are composed primarily of
cellulose. The cotton fibre is most often
spun into yarn or thread and is used to
make a soft, breathable textile.
 The cotton fibres are usually about 1-
1.5 inches long, but can be longer.
 They are usually white, but can also be
various shades of brown, yellow, green,
or gray.
Types of Cotton-Egyptian cotton(South America), upland cotton(South and
Central America), Indian cotton.
 Softness: Cotton fibres are naturally soft and
comfortable to the touch, making them ideal for clothing,
bedding, and other household items.
 Absorbency: These fibres are highly absorbent, which
means they can hold a large amount of water. This
makes cotton fabrics breathable and comfortable to
wear.
 Strength: They are strong and durable, which means
they can withstand repeated washings and wear.
 Hypoallergenic: Cotton fibres are hypoallergenic, which
means they are less likely to cause allergic reactions.
 Resistant to wrinkles: Cotton fibres are naturally
wrinkle-resistant, which means they can maintain their
shape even after being washed or worn.
 Biodegradable: Cotton are biodegradable, which
means they can break down naturally in the
environment.
 UV-Resistant: Cotton fibres have natural UV
resistance and can block out some of the harmful
rays of the sun.
 Easy to dye: They are easy to dye, which means it
can be coloured in different ways, making it
versatile and can be used in a variety of clothing.
 Low lint: Cotton fibres have low lint, which means
they are less likely to leave fibres behind when
washed or worn.
 Renewable Resource: Cotton is a renewable
resource and is grown in many parts of the world.
Cambric corduroy canvas Denim

Flannel Gauze lawn muslin

Jute is a long, rough, shiny bast fibre that can
be spun into coarse, strong threads. Jute is
one of the most affordable natural fibres and
second only to cotton in the amount produced
and variety of uses. Jute fibres composed
primarily of cellulose and lignin are collected
from bast (sometimes called the "skin") of
plants. The fibres' are off-white to brown and
range from 1–4 meters (3–13 feet) long. jute
is called the "golden fibres" for its colours
and high cash value. Jute stem has very high
volume of cellulose that can procured within
4-6 months.
 Length: Jute fibres are long, usually between 1.5 to 4
meters, which makes them easy to handle and spin into
yarn.
 Softness: They are relatively soft to the touch, which
makes them comfortable to handle and use in products such
as carpets, rugs, and upholstery.
 Coarseness: Jute are coarse in texture, which gives them
strength and durability. This property makes them suitable
for use in products that require strength and longevity, such
as burlap and hessian cloth.
 Shininess: Jute fibres have a natural shine, which gives
them a distinctive appearance that is different from
other natural fibres.
 Lightweight: Jute are lightweight, which makes them easy
to transport and handle.
 Durability: Jute is relatively durable and can withstand
prolonged exposure to sunlight and moisture, which makes
them suitable for use in outdoor products such as garden
furniture and landscape
 Flexibility: Jute fibres are flexible, which makes
them easy to weave or knit into various products.
 Elasticity: Jute are moderately elastic, which makes
them suitable for use in products that require some
degree of stretch, such as twine and cordage.
 Density: Jute fibres have a moderate density,
which makes them suitable for use in products that
require a balance of strength and softness, such as
bags and packaging materials.
 Tensile strength: Jute fibres have a moderate
tensile strength, which makes them suitable for use
in products that require a balance of strength and
flexibility, such as twine and cordage.
 Texture: Jute fibres are smooth and silky in
texture, making them suitable for use in a wide
range of products, including textiles, industrial, and
agricultural products.
Tossa Jute

Mesta Jute

White Jute
 Wool is a textile fibr obtained from sheep
and some other animals, including
cashmere and mohair from goats, qiviut
from muskoxen, angora from rabbits, and
other types of wool from camelids.
 Wool fibre is a natural fibre and its
characteristics such as diameter, crimps
and length are essential parameters of
the wool trait, as well as important
indicators of the spinning efficiency of the
wool.
 Durability – Wool is a hard fibre that
remains that retains its nice appearance for
a long time.
 Absorption of moisture – As a fabric wool
draws moisture from the body and absorbs
it inside its fibres. Heat is generated as the
moisture is absorbed so that the garment
stays warm without feeling wet.
 Resistance to dirt – Wool fibres have an
outer layer of scales that reduce the ability
of dirt and dust to penetrate the fibre.
 Resistance to fire – One of the properties
of wool is that it does not burn easily. When
subjected to flames, it will smoulder instead.
 Repel nature – Even though wool absorbs
moisture the scales on the outer layer of
each fibre repel liquids.
 Insulating nature – Tiny gaps are present
between the fibres. These are filled with
bubbles of air, which heat up as the
moisture in the centre of the fibre heats up,
making wool a perfect insulator.
 Llama wool
Cashmere Mohair

Alpaca wool
Quivit Camel wool
 Silk is a natural protein fibre that is
produced by the silkworm (Bombyx mori)
larvae to form their cocoons. It is known for
its unique combination of strength, softness,
and beauty, which make them a highly
valued material for many applications,
including clothing, bedding, and home
furnishings. Silk is also highly valued for its
unique properties. It is a good conductor of
heat, making it cool to the touch in warm
weather and warm in cold weather.
 Softness: Silk fibres are incredibly soft and
smooth to the touch, which makes them a popular
choice for clothing, bedding, and other items that
come into direct contact with the skin.
 Strength: Despite their softness, silk fibres are
also known for their strength. tensile strength is
high.
 Dye-ability: Silk fibres readily accept dyes, which
means that they can be easily colour to produce a
wide range of colour. They are known for their rich,
vibrant colours and their ability to hold colour well,
even after repeated washing and wearing.
 Shine: Silk fibres have a natural lustre and sheen that
gives them a luxurious appearance. This shine is a
result of the way that the protein fibres are woven
together, creating a smooth surface that reflects light.
 Thermal regulation: Silk fibres are good conductors
of heat, which means that they are cool to the touch in
warm weather and warm in cold weather.
 Hypoallergenic: Silk fibres are naturally
hypoallergenic, They are resistant to dust mites, mold,
and other allergens.
 Elasticity: Silk fibres have good elasticity, which
means that they can stretch and then return to their
original shape without breaking.
 Moisture-wicking: Silk fibres are
naturally breathable and can wick
moisture away from the skin, making
them comfortable to wear in warm
weather.
 Types of silk: Eri Silk, Muga Silk,
Mulberries Silk, Tussar Silk, Sea Silk,
Spider Silk.
 Eri Silk Mulberry Silk
Muga silk

Tussar Silk
Spider silk
 fabric made from the flax plant. Flax is one of
the oldest textile fibres used by humans.
Linen is stronger than cotton, dries more
quickly, and is more slowly affected by
exposure to sunlight. Low elasticity, imparting
a hard, smooth texture, makes linen subject
to wrinkling. Because linen absorbs and
releases moisture quickly and is a good
conductor of heat, linen garments feel cool to
wearers. Fine grades of linen are made into
woven fabrics and laces for apparel and
household furnishings.
Flax Plant
Fabric name Linen
Fabric also known as Flax fabric
Spun fibers from the stalks of flax
Fabric composition
plants
Fabric possible thread count
200-2,000
variations
Fabric breathability Highly breathable
Moisture-wicking abilities High
Heat retention abilities Low
Stretchability (give) Low
Prone to pilling/bubbling Low
Country where fabric was first
Prehistoric Europe
produced
Biggest exporting/producing
China
country today
Recommended washing
Cold, warm, or hot
 Polyester is a synthetic or man-made fiber
material. Shortened from its technical name,
polyethylene terephthalate (PET), is made
by mixing ethylene glycol and terephthalic
acid. Made in a lab from chemical
compounds, polyester is a kind of plastic.
 Used for a countless number of applications
for its strength and ability to retain its
shape, polyester is a base component for
several industrial, commercial, and
household products.
 Since polyester is a synthetic fibre, it doesn’t come
from a plant like cotton. Instead, polyester is
chemically produced from derived
compounds. Polyester has numerous attributes,
many of which are unique to the fabric.
 Most types of polyester aren’t biodegradable.
Polyester also isn’t the most luxurious fabric, which
means it can feel coarse on its own. Cheap or
poorly made polyester will feel rough, especially on
sensitive skin. The texture of polyester can depend
on how the fibres were made or tethered together.
While some polyester fabrics tend to be coarse and
itchy, others can be smooth and silky.
 Durable: Polyester fibres are much stronger than
other natural fibres. Polyester won’t tear or
stretch and can withstand abrasions. It’s highly
resilient to heat, light, and ultraviolet radiation
degradation, making it a good material for boat
covers and high sun exposure applications.
 Moisture resistant: Polyester repels moisture
and will wick away liquid droplets instead of
soaking them up like cotton.
 Wrinkle resistant: Polyester retains its shape
without needing to be washed or ironed as often
as cotton or linen.
 Mouldable: When heat is applied,
polyester is highly malleable and can be
formed into shapes.

Polyethylene Terephthalate
Plant-Based Polyester
PCDT Polyester
 Nylon is the name of a family of synthetic
polymers that are commonly used to make a
variety of different types of apparel and consumer
goods. Unlike other organic or semi-synthetic
fibres, nylon fibres are entirely synthetic, which
means that they have no basis in organic material.
 Nylon is the most useful synthetic material with
applications varying from daily life activities to industries. It
is a plastic which can be drawn into fibres or moulded into
daily products for making amenities. We can live our entire
life with nylon on our side. You hop across the nylon carpet
to the kitchen, eat your breakfast on a nylon bowl after
cleaning your teeth with a toothbrush whose bristles are
made of nylon. A nylon umbrella over your head is used to
move out of the house in heavy sunlight or to keep out of
the rain.
 Lustrous
 Elastic
 Very strong
 Damage resistant to oil and
many chemicals
 Resilient
 Does not absorb water
 Dries quickly
 Spandex is a synthetic fabric that is prized
for its elasticity.
 Refers to polyether-polyurea copolymer
fabrics that have been made with a variety
of production processes.
 Termed as spandex, Lycra, and elastane .
 This fabric can stretch to 5-8 times its
normal size, and it is commonly used in
form-fitting consumer apparel.
 The base material used to make spandex
is polyurethane
Fabric name Spandex
Fabric also known as Lycra, elastane
Fabric composition Polyether-polyurea copolymer
Fabric breathability High breathability
Moisture-wicking abilities High
Heat retention abilities Low
Stretchability (give) Exceptionally high
Prone to pilling/bubbling High
Country where fabric was first
United States
produced
Biggest exporting/producing
China
country today
Recommended washing
Warm or cold
temperatures
Athletic wear, stretch pants, yoga
Commonly used in pants, skinny jeans, underwear,
bras, socks, motion capture suits
 Lightweight.
 Can be stretched over 500% without breaking.
 Able to be stretched repetitively and still
recover original length.
 Abrasion resistant.
 Stronger, more durable than rubber.
 Soft, smooth and supple.
 Resistant to body oils, perspiration, lotions or
detergents.
 No static or pilling problems.
 The scientific name of acrylic is Poly-acrylonitrle.
 Acrylic is now used as artificial wool. ‘DuPont’
company first made acrylic fibers in 1944 and
began commercial production in 1950.
 It is made by either dry spinning or wet spinning.
 Acrylic filaments are smooth and straight. A
process called ‘texturizing’ is done on acrylic
filaments to make them wavy like wool. Due to
texturing, acrylic fibers become bulky and warm
wool-like.
 End Uses:  Apparel: Dresses, infant wear, knitted garments, ski wear,
socks, sportswear, sweaters.  Home Furnishings: Blankets, carpets,
draperies, upholstery.  Other: Auto tops, hand-knitting and craft yarns,
industrial and geotextile fabrics.
  Soft and warm
  Wool-like
  Retains shape
  Good abrasion resistance
  Light weight
  Quick-drying
  Resistant to moths, sunlight, acids and
chemicals
  Problem of static charge which also
attracts dirt and dust
 Strength: Acrylic fabrics have fair to strong tenacity. The acrylic
fiber loses the strength on wetting. It is weaker than cotton but
stronger than wool. It has good abrasion resistance.
 Elasticity: Acrylic fabrics have low elasticity. Acrylic fabrics do
not wrinkle easily and recover from creases quickly which makes
it very suitable for apparel purposes.
 Heat Conductivity: Acrylic fibers have poor heat conductivity.
The advantage of acrylic fabrics over wool is its warmth with
light weight. This makes acrylic suitable for blankets.
 Absorbency: Acrylic fabrics have poor water absorbency. These
fabrics dry quickly.
 Cleanliness and Washability: It is easy to keep Acrylic fabrics
clean, and they may be drycleaned easily. Acrylic fabrics should
be washed with a mild soap or detergent.
 Acrylics should not be washed at boiling temperatures because
the fabrics will shrink when washed at high temperatures.
 Effect of Heat: Acrylic fabrics cannot be heat set. They tend to
discolor and decompose when heated.
 Effect of Light: Acrylics have excellent resistance to sun light.
 Reaction to Alkalis: Acrylic fabrics are resistant to weak alkalis and
have medium resistance to the strong and cold alkalis. Its
resistance decreases as the strength of the alkali, the temperature
and the time increases.
 Reaction to Acids: Acrylic fabrics have excellent resistance to the
dilute acids.
 Affinity for Dyes: They can be dyed with disperse or cationic dyes
in a wide range of color. In addition, most of the synthetic filaments
are solution dyed. This means that the dyes are added to the
polymer melt before spinning. Solution dyed fabrics have excellent
colour fastness as the dye molecules become the fixed part of the
filament structure. The properties of the warmth, bulkiness without
weight and the resistance to insects make acrylics advantageous
over wool.
 Viscose rayon is a re-generated cellulose
fiber. It is made by chemical treatment of
wood pulp or waste cotton. It is made by
wet spinning.
 End Uses:

 Apparel: Tops, coats, dresses, jackets,

undergarments, linings, slacks, sports
shirts, sportswear, suits, ties, work clothes.
 Home Furnishings: Bedspreads, carpets,
curtains, draperies, sheets, tablecloths,
upholstery.
  High absorbency
  Soft and comfortable
  Shrinks more than cotton
  Poor abrasion resistance
  Loses strength on wetting
  Dyes easily
  Fairly expensive
 Luster: Rayon has good luster.
 Strength: Regular rayon is stronger than wool but is
weaker than cotton and the strength is reduced
from 40-70% when wet. Rayon has tenacity value of
2-3 gpd.
 Elasticity: Rayon has greater elasticity than cotton
but less than wool or silk. Rayon wrinkles easily
 Heat Conductivity: Rayon is a good conductor of
heat because it is a regenerated cellulose fibre. It is
used for summer apparels.
 Absorbency: Rayon fabric has excellent absorbency.
But its absorbency is less than wool and silk.
 Effect of Heat: Rayon has burning properties similar to
cotton fabric. Rayon fabric loses strength above 149° C. It
decomposes at 177 to 204°C. Rayon fabrics do not melt or
stick.
 Effect of Micro-organisms: Resistance of rayon fabrics to
mildew is similar to cotton. Rayon is damaged by mildew
and silverfish when stored in damp condition for long time.
 Reaction to Alkalis: Alkalis does not attack the rayon fabrics.
However, concentrated solutions of alkalis damage rayon.
 Reaction to Acids: Similar to cotton, rayon is attacked by
acids.
 Affinity for Dyes: Rayon fabric is absorbent in nature, so
absorbs dyes evenly. Colored rayon has good color fastness
but color fade with long exposure to sunlight. To overcome
this, solutiondyed rayon was developed.
 Fibre: It is a very fine thread or filament. It is a
natural or man-made substance that has very
small width. Yarn: Fibers are used to make
yarn. Yarn is also known as thread. Yarn a fine
cord of twisted fibers (of cotton or silk or wool
or nylon etc.)
 Yarns are also used for products such as
sewing and embroidery thread, string, and
rope. Yarns are produced in various sizes and
textures, and also vary in other characteristics.
Performance, end use, and fabric care are
affected by these yarn characteristics.
 Fibre length is
used to broadly
divide yarns
into:
 – Spun yarns
(made from
short, staple
fibres)
 – Filament
yarns (made
from
continuous
filament
fibres)
 Two important things in spinning of yarn that will later
on affect the fineness and strength of the fabric woven.
 Yarn twist : Yarns (especially spun yarns) are twisted to
hold the fibres together. Yarn twist impacts the yarn's
appearance, fineness, strength, and absorption.
 The number of twists per unit length is used to
measure twist.
 Some of the common uses for yarns with different twists
are given below:
 – Filament yarns used for smooth fabrics have no or very
low twist.
 – Yarns used for napping, bulky sweaters, and pile in
towels have low twist.
 – Most spun yarns used for woven fabrics have average
twist.
 – Crepe yarns used for plain and crepe weave fabrics have
high twist.
DIRECTIONS OF TWIST : Fibres
can be twisted together in the
clockwise or counter

clockwise direction to form yarns.

Yarns are twisted in the clockwise
direction for "S“ twist, and counter
clockwise for "Z" twist. The "Z" twist
is employed in a majority of
the spun yarns used for fabric
construction.
SPUN/STAPLE YARNS FILAMENT YARNS

Spun yarns are composed of Majority of the filament yarns

short staple fibres, or long are extruded yarns that are
filament fibres made of natural extruded
that have been cut into short fibres or manufactured fibres
staple fibres. Spun yarns may extruded through the
contain fibres spinneret. These yarns fibres
of the same type or a blend of can be broadly divided into:
different fibres. The spinning 1. Monofilament yarn is made
method used to manufacture from a single, relatively
the yarn affects properties thicker filament
such as uniformity and fibre. Transparent sewing
strength. Finer, smoother, thread, metallic yarns, bare
better quality cotton yarns, elastic, and fishing lines are
known as combed cotton examples of monofilament
yarns, are produced by yarns.
combing the fibres prior to 2. Multifilament yarn is made
spinning. A similar process is from multiple filament fibres.
used to manufacture fine Continuous filament fibre