Industrial Garments

© Md Samiul Alom Washing

Lecturer & Course Coordinator, CP 1: Introduction to
Dept. of Textile & Fashion Management, ISTT Washing
Email: [Link]@[Link], samiul_dtfm@[Link]

Chapter 1
Introduction to Garments Washing

This lecturer contains-

❖ Basic principles of garments washing
❖ Definition, purpose and effects of garments
washing process
❖ Denim fabric
❖ Classification of denim washing process.
1.1 Garments Washing:
The technology which is used to modify the outlook, appearance, fashion, and comfortability of
garments is called garments washing. Garments washing are the aesthetic finish given to the denim
fabric to enhance the appeal and to provide strength.
It is a technology by which outlook, size, comfort, and fashion of garments or apparels are
modified and given old garment effect is called garment washing. Varieties type of chemicals or
materials may be needed to do the specific wash.
Primary garment washing is classified into two types, these are-
1. Dry process or Mechanical process,
2. Wet process or chemical process.

1.2 Objects of Garments Washing

1. To create wash look appearance, seems the new touch of fashion.
2. By the washing technique, faded/old, color or tinted affect
3. Washing technique creates new fashion such as tagging, grinding, destroy, blasting,
whickering, permanent wrinkle, deep dye, tie dye, p.p spray, hand crapping, p.p spoonzing
etc.
4. To reduce size materials that imports soft hand feels.
5. To attraction the customers/buyer by different types of fashionable washing and market
development.
6. Due to washing, shrinkage occurs in the garments. There is no possibility of further shrinkage
of the wash garments.
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7. Any dirt, spot or germ if added in the garments during manufacturing is also removed due to
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washing.

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@ Md. Samiul Alom/D/ISTT/Lecture/I G Washing/F
 Industrial Garments
© Md Samiul Alom Washing
Lecturer & Course Coordinator, CP 1: Introduction to
Dept. of Textile & Fashion Management, ISTT Washing
Email: [Link]@[Link], samiul_dtfm@[Link]

1.3 Advantages of Garments Washing

1. Removal of starch, making the garments soft feeling.
2. Application of softener at the last stage of washing increase the softness property of
garments.
3. Any dirt, oil spots, stains developed in the garments during manufacturing also removed.
4. Shrinkage occurs in garments during washing, resulting in accurate size of the garments.
5. Washed garments could be used directly after purchase from stores or shops.
6. Partial discoloration of garments produces a new outlook to the garments.
7. Different types of washing produce the different effect of out looking.
8. A similar outlook could also be produced by different types of washing.
9. Comparatively lower capital investment to set up a garment washing plant.

1.4 Machineries used in garments washing industry:

• Garments washing machine.
• Hydro extractor machine
• Drying machine (tumble dryer)
• Boiler
• Sample washing machine
• Sand blasting unit for sand blast washing
• Spray machine
• Whickering
• Grinding machine
• Heat chamber for making crease in denim garments.

1.5 Process Flow Chart of Garments Washing:

Actual process flow chart for garments washing are mentioned in the following-

Garments receive from the sewing department

↓
Garments sent to the dry process (If there’s any dry process)
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 Industrial Garments
© Md Samiul Alom Washing
Lecturer & Course Coordinator, CP 1: Introduction to
Dept. of Textile & Fashion Management, ISTT Washing
Email: [Link]@[Link], samiul_dtfm@[Link]

Hand scrapping
↓
Whiskering
↓
Tacking
↓
Garments sent to the wet process
↓
Garments loading into the washing machine
↓
Washing (Maintaining wash reference)
↓
Extracting
↓
Drying
↓
Garments sent to the dry process (If there’s needed any more dry process)
↓
P.P spray (If the process needed)
↓
P.P sprayed garments sent to the wet process
↓
P.P sprayed garments loading into the washing machine
↓
Washing (Completing rest of the wet process)
↓
Extracting
↓
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Drying

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 Industrial Garments
© Md Samiul Alom Washing
Lecturer & Course Coordinator, CP 1: Introduction to
Dept. of Textile & Fashion Management, ISTT Washing
Email: [Link]@[Link], samiul_dtfm@[Link]

↓
Garments sent to the dry process (If there’s needed any more dry process)
↓
3D (If needed)
↓
Curing
↓
Quality check (Q.C)
↓
Send to the finishing department.

1.6 Basic principles of garments washing

Here are some of the basic principles of garments washing in textile:
1. Sort garments by fabric type and color. This will help to prevent colors from bleeding and
fabrics from shrinking or fading.
2. Use the correct detergent for the fabric type. Detergents are designed for different types
of fabrics, so using the wrong one can damage your clothes.
3. Wash clothes in cold water whenever possible. Hot water can shrink and fade fabrics.
4. Use a mild detergent and short wash cycle for delicate fabrics. Delicate fabrics can be
damaged by harsh detergents or long wash cycles.
5. Avoid using fabric softeners on water-resistant fabrics. Fabric softeners can coat the
fabric and make it less water-resistant.
6. Air-dry your clothes whenever possible. Tumble drying can shrink and fade fabrics.
7. Read the care labels on your clothes.
8. Prewash heavily soiled clothes. This will help to loosen dirt and stains so they can be
washed away more easily.
9. Spot treat stains before washing. This will help to prevent the stains from setting.
10. Don't overload your washing machine. This can prevent the clothes from getting clean and
can also damage the machine.
11. Clean your washing machine regularly. This will help to prevent buildup of dirt and
detergent that can damage your clothes.
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@ Md. Samiul Alom/D/ISTT/Lecture/I G Washing/F
 Industrial Garments
© Md Samiul Alom Washing
Lecturer & Course Coordinator, CP 1: Introduction to
Dept. of Textile & Fashion Management, ISTT Washing
Email: [Link]@[Link], samiul_dtfm@[Link]

1.7 Effects of garments washing process

The effects of garments washing process vary depending on the type of fabric, the washing
method, and the settings used. However, some common effects of garment washing include:
1. Shrinkage: Some fabrics, such as cotton and linen, can shrink when washed. This is usually
more pronounced when the fabric is washed in hot water or with a strong detergent.
2. Color fading: The color of garments can fade over time, especially when they are washed in
hot water or with harsh detergents. This is more likely to happen with fabrics that are dyed
with bright colors.
3. Pilling: Pilling is the formation of small balls of fabric on the surface of garments. This is
caused by friction, and it is more likely to happen with fabrics that are made from natural
fibers, such as wool and cotton.
4. Snagging: Snagging is the catching of a loose thread or fiber on a garment. This can happen
during washing or drying, and it can damage the fabric.
5. Delamination: Delamination is the separation of the layers of fabric in a garment. This can
happen when the garment is washed in hot water or with harsh detergents.

1.8 Denim Fabric

Denim is a type of woven twill fabric, usually made from cotton.
It consists of two yarns that are woven together. The yarn that runs across—known as the weft—
is threaded over and under the yarn that runs downwards, which is called the warp.
Denim is usually yarn-dyed with indigo. That means the warp yarns are dyed before they’re woven
into denim, while the weft yarns are left undyed or bleached. This allows makers to only dye one
set of yarn, the warp. That is why denim is blue on the front and white on the back.
Since it is a 3/1 twill weave with the warp set closer together than the filling, the former
predominates on the surface of the fabric. Denim was traditionally colored blue with indigo dye to
make blue “jeans,” though “jean” then denoted a different, lighter cotton textile; the contemporary
use of jean comes from the French word for Genoa, Italy (Gênes), from which the first denim
trousers were made. Although blue denim fabric has been a consumer favorite for many years, the
product also comes in different shades and tones.
However, with the advancement of alternative dyes such as sulfur, the definition of denim can be
stretched to include garment-dyed twills as well.
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@ Md. Samiul Alom/D/ISTT/Lecture/I G Washing/F
 Industrial Garments
© Md Samiul Alom Washing
Lecturer & Course Coordinator, CP 1: Introduction to
Dept. of Textile & Fashion Management, ISTT Washing
Email: [Link]@[Link], samiul_dtfm@[Link]

1.9 Types of Denim Washing Process

There is two widely used process of washing denim. One is a dry process and the other is a wet
process.

Dry Process Wet Process

1. Whiskering 1. Desizing

2. Brushing 2. Enzyme

3. Tacking 3. Acid Wash

4. 3DCrinkle 4. Bleaching

5. P.P Spray 5. Neutralization

6. Grinding 6. Rinse Wash

7. Tie 7. Tint

8. Twist 8. Over Dyeing

9. Damage 9. Cleaning

10. Laser 10. Softening

1.9.1 Dry Process

This process is done in the unwashed condition. Basically, denim garments are treated here but
nowadays twill garments are also treated.
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@ Md. Samiul Alom/D/ISTT/Lecture/I G Washing/F
 Industrial Garments
© Md Samiul Alom Washing
Lecturer & Course Coordinator, CP 1: Introduction to
Dept. of Textile & Fashion Management, ISTT Washing
Email: [Link]@[Link], samiul_dtfm@[Link]

1. Whisker
Whisker is the most common dry process for denim garments. This is done by making a pattern
and put the garments then remove the color from the pattern area. After wash, we can see the
pattern mark. It is one kind of design on the garments.
Manual Whisker
This whisker is done in a manual way with the help of a pattern. On denim garments, we have
done it by abrasive paper.
The Procedure of Manual whisker
▪ Put the whisker pattern into the garments
▪ Then rub the pattern area according to standard intensity by abrasive paper
▪ Quality check

2. Laser Whisker
This whisker is done by a laser machine. Here, garments specific areas are burned by imposing
laser with high intensity. After wash, the burned indigo color will be removed and the whisker
effect will be visible.
The Procedure of Laser Whisker
▪ Making the design by Photoshop/illustrator
▪ Put the garments on the machine surface
▪ Set the intensity of the burn
▪ Burn the garments
▪ Quality check

3. Hand Scrapping
This process is used to remove/fade the color from a specific area of the garments with an abrasive
paper. The faded effect is nicely visible after wash.
Required Tools for Hand Scrapping
1. Abrasive paper
2. Dummy
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3. Chalk for marking and masks

Working Procedure of Hand Scrapping
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@ Md. Samiul Alom/D/ISTT/Lecture/I G Washing/F
 Industrial Garments
© Md Samiul Alom Washing
Lecturer & Course Coordinator, CP 1: Introduction to
Dept. of Textile & Fashion Management, ISTT Washing
Email: [Link]@[Link], samiul_dtfm@[Link]

1. Specify the area

2. Put the garments into dummy
3. Scrapping with emery paper
4. Quality checking

4. P.P Spray
Potassium Permanganate is sprayed on the garments at a specific area. Garments are placed on a
dummy first and then pp spraying is done with the help of a gun by air pressure. After that garments
are dried and finally neutralize it to get the desired effect.
Materials Needed for P.P Spray
▪ Spray gun.
▪ PP solution
▪ Air pressure
▪ Mask
The procedure of P.P Spray
▪ Placement on dummy
▪ Spraying
▪ Drying
▪ Neutralization
▪ Quality check

5. Tagging
Tagging or tacking is the process that is done at the unwashed condition of garments. After wash,
we will get its effect. The maximum time we will do it at edge area by folding the garments.
Sometimes this process damages the garments by creating a hole.
Materials Needed for Tagging
▪ Tag gun
▪ Tag pin
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▪ Chalk
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▪ Hand Gloves

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@ Md. Samiul Alom/D/ISTT/Lecture/I G Washing/F
 Industrial Garments
© Md Samiul Alom Washing
Lecturer & Course Coordinator, CP 1: Introduction to
Dept. of Textile & Fashion Management, ISTT Washing
Email: [Link]@[Link], samiul_dtfm@[Link]

Procedure of Tagging
▪ Marking the garments
▪ Fold the garments as per standard
▪ Then tag the garments
▪ Quality check

6. Destroy
This process is done by a pen grinding machine which destroys only the warp yarns of the fabrics
or garments. The destroy look on the garments is best viewed after washing.
Necessary Tools to Destroy
▪ Pen grinding machine
▪ Marking Chalk
▪ Pattern board
▪ Hand gloves
▪ Masks
Working Procedure of Destroy
▪ Marking the area
▪ Destruct the garments by pen grinder
▪ Check the quality

7. Grinding
This process is done at the edges area of garments. If the garments require two-time wash in that
case grinding is done after the first wash to avoid the damages of garments.
Materials Needed for Grinding
▪ Grinding machine
▪ Hand gloves for safety.
Procedure of Grinding
▪ Run the machine
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▪ Touching the edge of garments according to standard.

▪ Quality Check.
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 Industrial Garments
© Md Samiul Alom Washing
Lecturer & Course Coordinator, CP 1: Introduction to
Dept. of Textile & Fashion Management, ISTT Washing
Email: [Link]@[Link], samiul_dtfm@[Link]

8. Crinkle
This process is done by crinkle machine or by manual clipping of a specific area and the effect is
more visible at the front and back knee area.
2D Crinkle
This process is done by crinkle machine or by manual clipping of a specific area and the effect is
more visible at the front and back knee area. In this process, the two-dimensional effect is
produced.
Material Needed for Crinkle
▪ Crinkle machine
▪ Resin
▪ Clip
▪ White fabric
Process flow of 2D Crinkle
▪ Applying Resin
▪ Garment Placement on machine
▪ Squeeze the garments
▪ Keep it up to retention time (Curing)
▪ Quality Check.

3D Crinkle
This effect is found by the special treatments of garments. By this system, the 3-dimensional effect
is produced. The final is more visible after washing the garments.
Tools used in 3D Crinkle
▪ 3D crinkle machine
▪ Resin
▪ White fabric
The procedure of 3D Crinkle
▪ Apply resin
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▪ Placement into dummy

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▪ Make 3D crinkle as per standard

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 Industrial Garments
© Md Samiul Alom Washing
Lecturer & Course Coordinator, CP 1: Introduction to
Dept. of Textile & Fashion Management, ISTT Washing
Email: [Link]@[Link], samiul_dtfm@[Link]

▪ Pre-cure the garments at 90 degrees C

▪ Taken out the garments from the machine
▪ Put into curing oven for full cure
▪ Quality check

1.9.2 Wet Process

This type of process is done at the wet conditions. There are so many stages in the wet process.

1. Normal Wash
This wash is the combination of rinse wash and softener wash.
The purposes of Normal Wash
▪ To remove dust, oil spot, and other impurities.
▪ To make the garments soft.
Problems of Normal Wash
▪ Sometimes pocket staining may occur.
▪ Colorfastness may be failing.
▪ Tone change if wash time is increased.

2. Enzyme Wash
In this wash, the enzyme is used to create the desired effect. They work basically on the surface of
the fabric. The enzyme may be neutral or acidic according to the requirement of shade. The main
benefits of using enzymes are that it is biodegradable and hence eco-friendly.
Purpose of Enzyme wash
▪ To remove size and starch materials.
▪ To make the garments softer.
▪ To improve fastness and anti-pilling properties.
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Stone Enzyme Wash

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Stone and Enzyme are used together for washing. Heavy abrasion occurs in this wash. Typically
done for Denim garments.

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 Industrial Garments
© Md Samiul Alom Washing
Lecturer & Course Coordinator, CP 1: Introduction to
Dept. of Textile & Fashion Management, ISTT Washing
Email: [Link]@[Link], samiul_dtfm@[Link]

Problems of Stone Enzyme Wash

▪ Sometimes metal may be found after using stone.
▪ Hem and seam area can be damaged.

3. Bleach Wash
In bleach wash, a strong oxidative bleaching agent is added during the washing, with or without
pumice stones.

4. Acid Wash
Acid washing or ice washing is usually done by dry tumbling the garments with pumice stones
presoaked in an acid solution.
Problems of Acid Wash
▪ Wide variation in effect.
▪ PP spot may come.
▪ Garments can be damaged due to vigorous action.

1.10 References
1. [Link]
2. [Link]
3. [Link]
4. [Link]
5. [Link]
6. [Link]
7. [Link]
8. [Link]
9. [Link]
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