PATTERNMAKING TOOLS AND THEIR USES

To work efficiently, the pattern maker must have the proper pattern making tools and supplies.

Dart manipulation:
Shoulder Tip
Mid-Shoulder
Mid-Neck
Center Front-Neck
Center Front - Bust Level
Center Front - Waist
French
Straight (side)
Mid-Armhole

TYPES OF PATTERN DRAFTING

There are two most common methods of drafting a pattern:
Dart Manipulation: changing the location of a dart within the pattern frame i.e. the
repositioning of dart around the pattern block. This involves repositioning a dart around the
pattern block to change the style while maintaining fit. Common dart positions on a bodice
include:
Shoulder: Mid-Shoulder or Shoulder Tip.
Neckline: Mid-Neck or Center Front-Neck.
Torso: Center Front-Bust Level, Center Front-Waist, or French dart.
Arm & Side: Mid-Armhole or Straight (side) dart.

Slashing and Spreading: your pattern to add fullness in the sleeve, skirt, or anywhere that you
don't want a fitted look. This technique involves cutting a pattern and spreading the pieces apart
to add fullness. It is used for designs where a fitted look is not desired, such as flared skirts or
voluminous sleeves.
With these 2 basic pattern drafting techniques, you can achieve ANY design you desire!

Fabric Grain and Terminology

Crosswise grain (weft): Yarns woven across the fabric from selvage to selvage. It is the filling
yarn of woven fabrics. Crosswise grain yields to tension.
Lengthwise grain (warp): Yarns parallel with selvage and at right angles to the crosswise grain.
It is the most stable grain.
Selvage: The narrow, firmly woven, and finished strip on both lengthwise grain edges of the
woven fabric. Clipping selvage releases tension.
True bias: The line that intersects with the lengthwise and crosswise grains at a 45° angle. True
bias has maximum give and stretch, easily conforming to the figure's contours. Flares, cowls,
and drapes work best when cut on true bias.

Understanding Fabric Grain

Grain: This refers to the direction of the threads in a woven fabric, which consists of the
lengthwise grain (warp) and crosswise grain (weft).
Lengthwise grain (warp): These yarns run parallel with the selvage and at right angles to the
crosswise grain. It is considered the most stable grain.
Crosswise grain (weft): These yarns are woven across the fabric from selvage to selvage and are
the filling yarns of woven fabrics. This grain yields to tension.
Selvage: This is the narrow, firmly woven, and finished strip found on both lengthwise grain
edges. Clipping the selvage helps to release tension.
True bias: This is a line that intersects the lengthwise and crosswise grains at a 45° angle. It
possesses maximum give and stretch, allowing it to easily conform to body contours.
Techniques like flares, cowls, and drapes are best executed when cut on the true bias.

Pattern Grading
Grading is the methodical process of proportionally increasing or decreasing a pattern's size.
Purpose: To fit a range of body types and sizes from a single base style.
Process: Each piece is adjusted to create a new size while maintaining the original fit, shape, and
proportions.
Nesting: Graded patterns can be displayed "nested" (stacked on top of each other) to show the
size variations.

Dart Terminology and Manipulation

A dart is a wedge-shaped cut-out that allows flat pattern pieces to take shape on a
three-dimensional figure.
Bust Point: The pivotal point or apex of the bust on a pattern.
Dart Intake: The amount of excess fabric or space confined between dart legs.
Dart Legs: The two lines converging at a predetermined point on the pattern.
Manipulation Positions: Darts can be moved to various locations on a bodice, including the
shoulder tip, mid-shoulder, mid-neck, center front (neck, bust level, or waist), French, straight
side, or mid-armhole.
Patternmaking Terminology
Apex: The highest point of a curve or dart.
Armscye: The specific point on a pattern where the sleeve is attached.
Blending: The process of smoothing and shaping lines to create a smooth transition between
points or separate pattern pieces.
Ease or Tolerance: Extra room allowed in a pattern to facilitate easy movement.
Grading: Proportionally increasing or decreasing a pattern's size to fit various body types while
maintaining the original fit and style.
Muslin: An unbleached cotton fabric used to test pattern fit before creating final "slopers".
Notch: Markings used to indicate cutting lines, joining points, hems, or dart legs. Single notches
usually refer to the front, while double notches refer to the back.
Production Pattern: The final, error-free version containing every piece needed to complete a
garment.
Seam Allowance: The area between the stitching and cutting lines.
Trueing: Straightening or blending lines and marks to establish correct seam lengths.
Working Pattern: Any base pattern used for manipulation to generate new designs.
Understanding Fabric Grain
Lengthwise grain (warp): Yarns parallel to the selvage; this is the most stable grain.
Crosswise grain (weft): Filling yarns woven across the fabric that yield to tension.
Selvage: The finished strip on the lengthwise edges of the fabric.
True Bias: A 45^{\circ} line intersecting the grains that provides maximum stretch for cowls and
drapes.

Types of Patterns
Working Pattern: Any base pattern used for manipulation to create new designs.
Production Pattern: The final, error-free version containing every piece required to complete the
garment.
Commercial Patterns: These often include a pattern envelope, instruction sheet, and sized
pattern tissue for home or industrial use.

Commercial Patterns
Commercial patterns are pre-made designs produced from standard industry measurements.
They are sold to designers or individuals and typically include:
Pattern Envelope: For storage and identification.
Instruction Sheet: Detailed steps for construction.
Pattern Tissue: The actual sized patterns for cutting.

Foundational Patternmaking Concepts

Flat Patternmaking: A system of using already drafted blocks or slopers to create
two-dimensional patterns that, when sewn, achieve a desired fit.
Basic Blocks/Slopers (5 Piece Basic Foundation): A set of five patterns consisting of a front
bodice, back bodice, front skirt, back skirt, and sleeve. These blocks are tested for perfect fit and
altered to create new styles.
Muslin: A plain weave, unbleached cotton fabric used to perfect the fit of a pattern before final
versions are created.
Grading: The process of proportionally increasing or decreasing a pattern's size to fit various
body types. Graded patterns can be displayed "nested," or stacked on top of each other, to show
size variations.

Patternmaking Terminology
Notch: Symbols or markings on a pattern indicating cutting lines, joining points, hems, or dart
legs. Single notches refer to the front, while double notches refer to the back.
Seam Allowance: Extra fabric added to a pattern between the stitching line and the cutting line.
Ease or Tolerance: The extra amount allowed in a pattern to facilitate easy movement.
Trueing: Straightening and blending lines (pencil marks, crossmarks, etc.) to establish correct
seam lengths.
Apex: The highest point of a dart or a curve.
Armscye: The specific point on a pattern where the sleeve is sewn.

Fabric Grain and Anatomy

Grain: The direction of threads in a woven fabric.
Lengthwise grain (warp): Yarns parallel with the selvage; this is the most stable grain.
Crosswise grain (weft): Filling yarns woven across the fabric from selvage to selvage; this grain
yields to tension.
True bias: A line at a 45° angle to the grain, possessing maximum stretch. It is ideal for flares,
cowls, and drapes.
Selvage: The finished, firmly woven strip on both lengthwise edges of a fabric.

Primary Drafting Methods

There are two most common methods used to draft a pattern:
1. Dart Manipulation
A dart is a wedge-shaped cut-out used to control garment fit by allowing a flat pattern to take
shape on a three-dimensional figure.
Bust Point (Apex): The designated pivotal point on the bust/pattern.
Dart Intake: The amount of excess fabric confined between dart legs.
Repositioning: Manipulation involves moving a dart to various locations, such as the shoulder
tip, mid-neck, center front-waist, or mid-armhole.
2. Slashing and Spreading
This technique involves cutting (slashing) a pattern and fanning out the pieces (spreading) to
add fullness. It is used for sleeves, skirts, or any design where a fitted look is not desired.

Patternmaking Fundamentals
Flat Patternmaking: A system of using already drafted blocks or slopers to create
two-dimensional patterns that, when sewn, achieve a desired fit.
Basic Blocks/Slopers: Also known as the 5 Piece Basic Foundation, this is a set consisting of the
front bodice, back bodice, front skirt, back skirt, and sleeve. These blocks are tested for perfect
fit and can be altered to create a variety of new styles.
Working Pattern: Any pattern used as a base for manipulation when generating new design
patterns.
Production Pattern: The final, error-free version containing every pattern piece required to
complete the garment.
Commercial Pattern: Patterns produced from industry "Standard measurements" and sold to
designers or individuals. These typically include a pattern envelope, instruction sheet, and sized
pattern tissue.

Basic Sleeve Pattern Instructions

Here are the step-by-step instructions for drafting the basic sleeve pattern:
1-2 = sleeve length 7 \frac{1}{2} inches (19 cm) to 7 \frac{3}{4} inches (20 cm)
1-3 = 4 \frac{1}{2} inches (12 cm)
Square points 3 and 2 to the right
1-4 = 3/8 inch (1 cm)
4-5 = 1/2 armhole measure
2-6 = 1/2 lower arm girth + 3/8 inch (1 cm)
Connect 5 to 6 and 4 to 5
Divide line 4-5 into 4 equal parts and mark 7, 8, 9
7-10 raise 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)
9-11 lower 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)
Connect 4, 10, 8 with a French curve
Connect 5, 12, 8 with a French curve (for front sleeve cap)
8-12 = 1/4 inch (0.5 cm)
13 = center of 11 and 9
Connect 10, 12, 13, and 5 for back sleeve capline with a dotted line
Cut off in the dotted line for back sleeve pattern
Cut off 12 to 5 and 6 to 5
Open the sleeve and cut 5, 11, 8 to 10 for front sleeve pattern
Here are the instructions for drafting the front skirt pattern and starting the sleeve basic pattern:

Front Skirt Pattern Drafting

Front Skirt Square down 10B

1-7F = 1/4 waist + 1 \frac{1}{2} inches (4 cm)
4-8F = 1/4 second hip + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)
5-9F = 1/4 second hip + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)
1-10F = 1/2 bust point width; Square down 10F
10F-11F = 5 \frac{1}{4} inches (13 cm) to 5 \frac{1}{2} inches (14 cm)
10F-12F = 3/4 inch (2 cm)
11F-13F = 3/4 inch (2 cm); Connect 12F and 13F to 11F
Fold 12F over 13F and connect 3 to 7F with a hip curve
Connect 7F to 8F with a hip curve
Connect 8F to 9F with a straight line
5 to 14 = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm); Connect 14 to 9F with a hip curve
Drafting the Sleeve Basic Pattern
Get one-fourth sheet of pattern paper.
Construct a sleeve.
Place the centerline on a folded pattern paper.

Drafting the Back and Front Skirt Basic Pattern

​Get one-half sheet of pattern paper. Construct a back skirt basic pattern.
​Draw perpendicular line T.
​1-2 = 3/8 inch (1 cm)
​1-3 = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)
​1-4 = 7 inches (18 cm) to 8 \frac{3}{4} inches (22 cm)
​1-5 = skirt length
​1-6 = middle of 1 and 4
​Square out 3, 6, 4, and 5 to the right

​Drafting the Sleeve Basic Pattern

​Get one-fourth sheet of pattern paper.
​Construct a sleeve.
​Place the centerline on a folded pattern paper.

Drafting the Front Bodice Pattern

2-8F = 1/2 back neck or 6.5 to 7.5 cm
2-9F = 1/2 shoulder. Square down 9F
9F – 10F = 4.5 cm. connect 8F to 10F
4-11F = 1/2 shoulder minus 3/4 inch (2 cm).
8 – 12F = 1/4 bust + 1 inch (2.5 cm). Connect 10F, 11F, and 12F with a French curve
5-13F = 1/2 bust point width
7-14F = 1/2 bust point width. Connect 13F to 14F
7-15F = 1/4 waist + 4 cm. Connect 12F to 15F with a dotted line.
14F – 16F = 3/4 inch (2 cm).
14F – 17F = 3/4 inch (2 cm).
13F – 18F = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 16F-18F, 17F to 18F
12F – 19F = 3 \frac{1}{5} inches (8 cm).
19F – 20F = difference of 6 and 7
21 – middle of 19F and 20F. Connect 21F and 13F
13F – 22F = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 19F to 20F to 22F (side dart)
Fold 20F over 19F
Connect 12F and 15F with a straight line
Fold 16F over 17F
Connect 7F to 15F
12F – 15F with a dart closed = 12B – 15B of back bodice (side length)

Drafting the Back and Front Skirt Basic Pattern

Get one-half sheet of pattern paper. Construct a back skirt basic pattern.
Draw perpendicular line T.
1-2 = 3/8 inch (1 cm).
1-3 = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
1-4 = 7 inches (18 cm) to 8 \frac{3}{4} inches (22 cm).
1-5 = skirt length
1-6 = middle of 1 and 4
Square out 3, 6, 4, and 5 to the right

Drafting the Back Bodice Pattern

1-4 = 5 \frac{1}{2} inches (14 cm)
2-5 = bust point height measure
1-6 = back figure
2-7 = front figure
8 is the middle of 2 and 7
Square out 2, 4, 8, 5 and 7 to the right
1-8B = 1/2 back neck or 2 \frac{1}{2} inches (6.5 cm) to 2.9 inches (7.5 cm)
Connect 8B to 2 with a French curve
1-9B = 1/2 shoulder + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm); Square down 9B
9B – 10B = 1 \ 3/8 inches (3.5 cm); Connect 8B to 10B
4-11B = 1/2 shoulder minus 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)
8-12B = 1/4 bust + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm); Connect 10B, 11B and 12B with a French curve
8-13B = 1/2 bust point width
6-14B = 1/2 bust point width; Connect 13B to 14B
6-15B = 1/4 waist + 1 \ 1/8 inches (3 cm); connect 12B to 15B
14B – 16B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm); Connect 16B-18B and 17B-18B
14B – 17B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm); Connect 16B-18B and 17B-18B

Drafting the Front Bodice Pattern

2-8F = 1/2 back neck or 6.5 to 7.5 cm
2-9F = 1/2 shoulder; Square down 9F
9F – 10F = 4.5 cm; connect 8F to 10F
4-11F = 1/2 shoulder minus 3/4 inch (2 cm)
8 – 12F = 1/4 bust + 1 inch (2.5 cm); Connect 10F, 11F, and 12F with a French curve
5-13F = 1/2 bust point width
7-14F = 1/2 bust point width; Connect 13F to 14F
7-15F = 1/4 waist + 4 cm; Connect 12F to 15F with dotted line
14F – 16F = 3/4 inch (2 cm)
14F – 17F = 3/4 inch (2 cm)
13F – 18F = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm); Connect 16F-18F, 17F to 18F
12F – 19F = 3 \ 1/5 inches (8 cm)
19F – 20F = difference of 6 and 7
21 – middle of 19F and 20F; Connect 21F and 13F
13F – 22F = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm); Connect 19F to 20F to 22F (side dart)
Fold 20F over 19F
Connect 12F and 15F with a straight line
Fold 16F over 17F
Connect 7F to 15F
12F – 15F with a dart closed = 12B – 15B of back bodice (side length)

Drafting the Back and Front Skirt Basic Pattern

Get one-half sheet of pattern paper; Construct a back skirt basic pattern
Draw perpendicular line T
1-2 = 3/8 inch (1 cm)
1-3 = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)
1-4 = 7 inches (18 cm) to 8 \ 3/4 inches (22 cm)
1-5 = skirt length
1-6 = middle of 1 and 4
Square out 3, 6, 4, and 5 to the right

Drafting the Back Skirt Pattern

Square out 2, 6, 4, and 5 to the left
1-7B = 1/4 waist + 1.2 inches (3 cm)
4-8B = 1/4 second hip + 3/8 inch (1 cm)
5-9B = 1/4 second hip + 3/8 inch (1 cm)
1-10B = 1/2 bust point width; Square down 10B
10B-11B = 5 \frac{1}{2} inches (14 cm) to 6 inches (15 cm)
10B-12B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)
10B-13B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm); Connect 12B and 13B to 11B
Fold 12B over 13B and connect 2 to 7B with a hip curve
Connect 7B to 8B with a hip curve
Connect 8B to 9B with a straight line

Drafting the Front Skirt Pattern

Front Skirt Square down 10B
1-7F = 1/4 waist + 1 \frac{1}{2} inches (4 cm)
4-8F = 1/4 second hip + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)
5-9F = 1/4 second hip + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)
1-10F = 1/2 bust point width; Square down 10F
10F-11F = 5 \frac{1}{4} inches (13 cm) to 5 \frac{1}{2} inches (14 cm)
10F-12F = 3/4 inch (2 cm)
11F – 13F = 3/4 inch (2 cm); Connect 12F and 13F to 11F
Fold 12F over 13F and connect 3 to 7F with a hip curve
Connect 7F to 8F with a hip curve
Connect 8F to 9F with a straight line
5 to 14 = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm); Connect 14 to 9F with a hip curve

Pattern Drafting Essentials

Drafting Tools
Tape measure
L-square
Hip curve
French curve
Transparent ruler
Pencil
Eraser
Scissor
Sharpener

Drafting the Bodice Patterns

Foundation Lines
Get one-half sheet of pattern paper to construct back and front bodice patterns.
Draw perpendicular line T.
1-2 = 3/4 inch (2 cm) down.
1-3 = 4 inches (10 cm).
1-4 = 5 \frac{1}{2} inches (14 cm).
2-5 = bust point height measure.
1-6 = back figure.
2-7 = front figure.
8 is the middle of 2 and 7.
Square out 2, 4, 8, 5 and 7 to the right.

Back Bodice Pattern

1-8B = 1/2 back neck or 2 \frac{1}{2} inches (6.5 cm) to 2.9 inches (7.5 cm).
Connect 8B to 2 with a French curve.
1-9B = 1/2 shoulder + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm); Square down 9B.
9B – 10B = 1 \ 3/8 inches (3.5 cm); Connect 8B to 10B.
4-11B = 1/2 shoulder minus 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
8-12B = 1/4 bust + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm); Connect 10B, 11B and 12B with a French curve.
8-13B = 1/2 bust point width.
6-14B = 1/2 bust point width; Connect 13B to 14B.
6-15B = 1/4 waist + 1 \ 1/8 inches (3 cm); connect 12B to 15B.
14B – 16B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
14B – 17B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
Connect 16B-18B and 17B-18B (for dart formation).

Front Bodice Pattern

2-8F = 1/2 back neck or 6.5 to 7.5 cm.
2-9F = 1/2 shoulder; Square down 9F.
9F – 10F = 4.5 cm; connect 8F to 10F.
4-11F = 1/2 shoulder minus 3/4 inch (2 cm).
8 – 12F = 1/4 bust + 1 inch (2.5 cm); Connect 10F, 11F, and 12F with a French curve.
5-13F = 1/2 bust point width.
7-14F = 1/2 bust point width; Connect 13F to 14F.
7-15F = 1/4 waist + 4 cm; Connect 12F to 15F with dotted line.
14F – 16F = 3/4 inch (2 cm).
14F – 17F = 3/4 inch (2 cm).
13F – 18F = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm); Connect 16F-18F, 17F to 18F.
12F – 19F = 3 \ 1/5 inches (8 cm).
19F – 20F = difference of 6 and 7.
21 – middle of 19F and 20F; Connect 21F and 13F.
13F – 22F = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm); Connect 19F to 20F to 22F (side dart).
Fold 20F over 19F.
Connect 12F and 15F with a straight line.
Fold 16F over 17F.
Connect 7F to 15F.
12F – 15F with a dart closed = 12B – 15B of back bodice (side length).

Drafting the Skirt Patterns

Basic Skirt Foundation
Get one-half sheet of pattern paper; Construct a back skirt basic pattern.
Draw perpendicular line T.
1-2 = 3/8 inch (1 cm).
1-3 = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
1-4 = 7 inches (18 cm) to 8 \ 3/4 inches (22 cm).
1-5 = skirt length.
1-6 = middle of 1 and 4.
Square out 3, 6, 4, and 5 to the right.
Back Skirt Pattern
Square out 2, 6, 4, and 5 to the left.
1-7B = 1/4 waist + 1.2 inches (3 cm).
4-8B = 1/4 second hip + 3/8 inch (1 cm).
5-9B = 1/4 second hip + 3/8 inch (1 cm).
1-10B = 1/2 bust point width; Square down 10B.
10B-11B = 5 \frac{1}{2} inches (14 cm) to 6 inches (15 cm).
10B-12B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
10B-13B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm); Connect 12B and 13B to 11B.
Fold 12B over 13B and connect 2 to 7B with a hip curve.
Connect 7B to 8B with a hip curve.
Connect 8B to 9B with a straight line.

Front Skirt Pattern

Square down 10B.
1-7F = 1/4 waist + 1 \frac{1}{2} inches (4 cm).
4-8F = 1/4 second hip + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
5-9F = 1/4 second hip + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
1-10F = 1/2 bust point width; Square down 10F.
10F-11F = 5 \frac{1}{4} inches (13 cm) to 5 \frac{1}{2} inches (14 cm).
10F-12F = 3/4 inch (2 cm).
11F – 13F = 3/4 inch (2 cm); Connect 12F and 13F to 11F.
Fold 12F over 13F and connect 3 to 7F with a hip curve.
Connect 7F to 8F with a hip curve.
Connect 8F to 9F with a straight line.
5 to 14 = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm); Connect 14 to 9F with a hip curve.

Fundamental Concepts of Pattern Drafting

Basic Pattern: Also known as a "master," "foundation pattern," or "block," this is the starting
point for flat-pattern designing. It fits the body with just enough ease for movement and
consists of five pieces: bodice front, bodice back, skirt front, skirt back, and sleeve.
Block Pattern: A pattern made by drafting from measurements carefully taken from an
individual or a model.
Final Pattern: The completed pattern provided with symbols (grain lines, notches, center folds)
to guide the cutter on how to lay it out on cloth.

Preparation and Tools

To achieve an accurate draft, observe these measures:
Use an L-square for accurate division of measurements and making lines.
Use a French curve to shape necklines and armholes for a perfect curve.
Utilize a hip curve for shaping as necessary.
Secure the paper with weights or dressmaker's pins so it does not move.
Additional Tools: Tape measure, transparent ruler, pencil, eraser, scissors, and sharpener.

Drafting the Basic Bodice Pattern

Foundation Lines
Use a half-sheet of pattern paper and draw perpendicular line T.
1-2: 3/4 inch (2 cm) down.
1-3: 4 inches (10 cm).
1-4: 5 \frac{1}{2} inches (14 cm).
2-5: Bust point height measure.
1-6: Back figure.
2-7: Front figure.
8: Middle of points 2 and 7.
Square out points 2, 4, 8, 5, and 7 to the right.
Back Bodice Details
1-8B: 1/2 back neck or 6.5 cm to 7.5 cm. Connect to 2 with a French curve.
1-9B: 1/2 shoulder + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm); square down to 9B.
9B-10B: 1 \ 3/8 inches (3.5 cm); connect 8B to 10B.
4-11B: 1/2 shoulder minus 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
8-12B: 1/4 bust + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm); connect 10B, 11B, and 12B with a French curve.
Darts: 6-14B is 1/2 bust point width; connect to 13B. 14B-16B and 14B-17B are each 5/8 inch (1.5
cm).
Front Bodice Details
2-8F: 1/2 back neck or 6.5 to 7.5 cm.
2-9F: 1/2 shoulder; square down to 9F.
9F-10F: 4.5 cm; connect 8F to 10F.
4-11F: 1/2 shoulder minus 3/4 inch (2 cm).
8-12F: 1/4 bust + 1 inch (2.5 cm); connect 10F, 11F, and 12F with a French curve.
Darts: 7-14F is 1/2 bust point width; connect to 13F. 14F-16F and 14F-17F are each 3/4 inch (2
cm).
Drafting the Basic Skirt Pattern
Foundation and Back Skirt
Draw perpendicular line T.
1-2: 3/8 inch (1 cm); 1-3: 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
1-4: 7 inches (18 cm) to 8 \ 3/4 inches (22 cm).
1-5: Skirt length; 1-6: Middle of points 1 and 4.
Square out points 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6.
1-7B: 1/4 waist + 1.2 inches (3 cm).
4-8B: 1/4 second hip + 3/8 inch (1 cm).
5-9B: 1/4 second hip + 3/8 inch (1 cm).
10B-11B: 5 \frac{1}{2} inches (14 cm) to 6 inches (15 cm) for the back dart.
Front Skirt Details
1-7F: 1/4 waist + 1 \frac{1}{2} inches (4 cm).
4-8F: 1/4 second hip + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
5-9F: 1/4 second hip + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
10F-11F: 5 \frac{1}{4} inches (13 cm) to 5 \frac{1}{2} inches (14 cm) for the front dart.
Side Curve: From point 5 to 14 is 5/8 inch (1.5 cm); connect 14 to 9F with a hip curve.

Taking Necessary Measurements

Bust point height: Measured from the neck point down to the highest point of the bust.
Length of sleeve: Measured from the shoulder point down to the desired length on the arm.
Length of skirt: Measured from the waist down to the desired length (mini, short, knee, midi,
maxi, ankle, or gown).

How to Measure
Measuring Tools
Tape measure
Pencil
Notebook
Hem gauge
Hem Marker
Procedure in Taking Body Measurements
There are several parts of the body to be measured. These are taken in:
Horizontal measurement
Vertical measurement
Circumferential measurement
The horizontal measurement is taken from the left of the figure to the right.
shoulder
Shoulder. Measurement is taken from the tip of the left shoulder to the tip of the right shoulder,
arching slightly to cover the cervical prominence of the neck bone.

Lesson 2 : Taking Client’s Body Measurement

What is this lesson about?
The lesson deals with the preparation of measuring tools and taking body measurement
accurately and recording them based on job requirements.
What will you learn?
At the end of the lesson, you should be able to:
prepare measuring tools in accordance with the job requirements;
take body measurements of client in sequence according to standard procedure; and
record the body measurements in line with job requirements.
Taking Body Measurements
Measurements are the foundation of pattern drafting. They establish basic axes which are
natural to the body. These axes are then used to reconstruct the shape of the body onto the
paper. They must be taken with complete accuracy.
Measurements can be taken without assistance, but the task is easier when you have someone to
help you.
Rules in Taking Body Measurement
Wear undergarments or bodysuits when measuring.
Use a tape measure that does not stretch.
Tie a string around your natural waistline.
Pull the tape snug, but not too tight.
Be sure to keep the tape parallel to the floor.
Take girth measurements, then length measurements.
Ask the subject to stand in a relaxed, upright position in stocking feet.
Insert two fingers in taking girth measurements.
Record all measurements on a chart accurately.