Aatcc 179-2019
Aatcc 179-2019
AATCC TM179-2019 1
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Copyright © 2019 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
≥ 380 mm
≥ 75 mm
B B
90° 90°
≥ 380 mm
≥ 660 mm
500 mm
500 mm
250 mm 250 mm
B C B C
90° 90°
≥ 380 mm
250 mm
250 mm
90° 90°
Y 90° Z Y 90° Z
A ≥ 75 mm A
A D A ≥ 75 mm D ≥ 75 mm
Fig. 1—Marking Method 1 for fabric (left) and garment (right). Fig. 2—Marking Method 2 for fabric (left) and garment (right).
8.1.1 Lay specimens flat, separately, on Fig. 2). 10.1.1 Select washing conditions for
a screen or perforated shelf of a condi- 9.2.1 Mark specimens without tension testing from Table I. Set washing ma-
tioning rack. For garments normally on a flat, smooth, horizontal surface. chine controls to generate the selected cy-
stored hung, hang separately on hangers 9.2.2 On each specimen, mark refer- cle parameters.
to condition. Allow space for air move- ence line YZ perpendicular to the length 10.1.2 Load for laundering shall con-
ment on all sides of the garment. of the specimen, at least 75 mm (3 in.) sist of all specimens in the sample,
8.2 Specimens will be conditioned above the bottom edge. plus enough laundering ballast pieces to
again after laundering. 9.2.3 Mark A midway on YZ. make a total load weight of 1.8 ± 0.1 kg
9.2.4 Place one side of a right-angle (4.0 ± 0.2 lb).
9. Marking of Specimens marking device along YZ so that the per- 10.1.3 Begin selected wash cycle. Al-
pendicular side extends upward from low machine to fill to specified water
9.1 Marking Method 1 (see 15.8 and point A. Mark a line along this side of level.
Fig. 1). the right-angle marking device, upward 10.1.4 Add 66 ± 1 g of AATCC 1993
9.1.1 Mark specimens without tension from point A, perpendicular to YZ, at least Standard Reference Detergent to washing
on a flat, smooth, horizontal surface. 500 mm (20-in.) long. machine as directed by washing machine
9.1.2 On each specimen, mark 250-mm 9.2.5 Mark point B along the second manufacturer’s instructions. If detergent
(10-in.) pairs of benchmarks parallel to line, 500 mm (20-in) above point A. If is added directly to wash water, agitate
the length of the specimen and 250-mm the specimen size is insufficient to mark briefly to dissolve completely. Stop agita-
(10-in.) pairs of benchmarks perpendicu- a 500-mm (20-in.) length, mark B at the tion before adding wash load.
lar to the length of the specimen. Indi- farthest available point along the line that 10.1.5 Add wash load (test speci-
cate any alternate benchmark distances in is at least 75 mm (3 in.) below the upper mens and ballast), distributing evenly
the test report (see 15.9). edge of the test specimen. Indicate any al- around center agitator. Restart wash cy-
9.1.3 Extend and connect benchmarks ternate distance in the test report. cle.
so that a square is formed. Label corners 9.2.6 or circular knitted fabrics to be 10.1.6 For specimens to be drip dried
as A, B, C and D in clockwise direction used in tubular form (e.g., underwear, (drying procedure C), stop wash cycle be-
starting with lower left corner. sweatshirts, etc.), test in tubular form. For fore the water begins to drain from the fi-
9.1.4 For circular knitted fabrics to be others, slit tube and test in open-width nal rinse cycle. Remove specimens soak-
used in tubular form (e.g., underwear, form. ing wet. For specimens to be tumble (A),
sweatshirts, etc.), test in tubular form. For line (B), or screen/flat (D) dried, allow
others, slit tube and test in open-width 10. Laundering Procedure washing to proceed through the final spin
form. cycle.
9.2 Marking Method 2 (see 15.8 and 10.1 Washing. 10.1.7 After each washing cycle, sepa-
2 AATCC TM179-2019
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Copyright © 2019 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Table II—Standard Drying Conditions Table III—Standard Tumble Dryer Parameters (see 15.5)
(A) Tumble Dry Cycle (Ai) Normal (Aii) Delicate (Aiii) Permanent Press
(Ai) Tumble Dry Normal Max. Exhaust Temp, °C (°F) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10) 60 ± 6 (140 ± 10) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10)
(Aii Tumble Dry Delicate Cool Down Time, min. ≤ 10 ≤ 10 ≤ 10
(Aiii) Tumble Dry Permanent Press
(B) Line/Hang Dry
(C) Drip Dry
(D) Screen Dry/Dry Flat Table IV—Laundering Ballast Parameters
Type 1 Type 3
Fiber Content 100% cotton 50% cotton/50% polyester ± 3%
rate tangled specimens and ballast pieces, Greige Fabric Yarns 16/1 ring spun 16/1 or 30/2 ring spun
taking care to minimize distortion. Pro- Greige Fabric Construction 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave
ceed to appropriate drying procedure. Finished Fabric Weight 155 ± 10 g/m2 155 ± 10 g/m2
10.2 Drying. Edges All edges hemmed or over-edged All edges hemmed or over-edged
10.2.1 Select drying conditions from Finished Piece Size 920 × 920 ± 30 mm 920 × 920 ± 30 mm
Table II. (36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.) (36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.)
Finished Piece Weight 130 ± 10 g 130 ± 10 g
10.2.2 (A) Tumble dry. Place the
washed load (test specimens and ballast)
in the tumble dryer, and set the tempera-
ture control to generate the selected ex- surement, so as not to cause measurement Mark point A where this side of the right-
haust temperature (see Table III). Allow error. If the specimens are extremely angle marking device meets line AD.
the dryer to run until the load is fully dry. wrinkled and the consumer would AL- 11.3.3 Next place one side of the
Remove specimens immediately. WAYS expect to iron a garment made right-angle marking device along line
10.2.3 (B) Line/hang dry. Hang each from the fabric, test specimens may be AD so that the perpendicular side ex-
specimen on an appropriate hanger, hand ironed prior to measurement. tends to point C. Mark D where this
straightening and smoothing facings, 10.4.2 Use safe ironing temperatures side of the right-angle marking device
seams, etc. Specimens should generally appropriate to the fibers in the fabric being meets line AD
be oriented in the direction in which ironed. See TM133, Table I, Safe Ironing 11.3.4 Measure and record the length of
they are worn. Do not fold or stretch Temperature Guide (see 15.1). Exert only AA, DD, AB, and CD after laundering, to
specimens over the hanger. Allow speci- the minimum pressure necessary to re- the nearest millimeter, or eighth or tenth
mens to hang in still air at room tempera- move wrinkles. of an inch.
ture not greater than 26°C (78°F) until 10.4.3 Due to the extremely high 11.4 Marking Method 2, Calculation
dry. Do not blow air directly on speci- variability of hand ironing procedures Option 3 (see Fig. 3c).
mens as it may cause distortion. performed by individual operators (no 11.4.1 Place one side of a right-angle
10.2.4 (C) Drip dry. Hang dripping standard test method exists for hand iron- marking device along line YZ so that the
wet specimen on an appropriate hanger, ing procedures), the reproducibility of perpendicular side extends to point B.
straightening and smoothing facings, dimensional change results after hand Mark point A where this side of the right-
seams, etc. Specimens should generally ironing has been found to be extremely angle marking device meets line YZ.
be oriented in the direction in which they poor. Consequently, caution is advised 11.4.2 Measure and record the length
are worn. Do not fold or stretch speci- when comparing dimensional change re- of AA and AB after laundering, to the
mens over the hanger. Allow specimens sults after laundering and hand ironing, nearest millimeter, or eighth or tenth of an
to hang in still air at room temperature reported by different operators. inch.
not greater than 26°C (78°F) until dry. 10.4.4 After ironing, condition test 11.5 Point A, for Calculation Options 2
Do not blow air directly on specimens as specimens as described in 8.1. and 3, plus D, for Calculation Option 2,
it may cause distortion. are marked after 3 (or an agreed upon
10.2.5 (D) Screen/flat dry. Spread 11. Measurement number of) washings. Points after subse-
each specimen on a horizontal screen quent washings should be indicated by
11.1 After conditioning, lay each test numbers or other symbols to differentiate
or perforated surface, removing wrinkles specimen without tension on the same
without distorting or stretching it. Allow measurements (e.g., A).
surface used for marking in section 9. Use
specimens to rest in still air at room tem- the same measuring device as for initial
perature not greater than 26°C (78°F) 12. Calculation
marking and measurement.
until dry. Do not blow air directly on 11.1.1 Calculation Option 1 or 2 can be 12.1 Skew Change Calculation Option
specimens as it may cause distortion. used with Marking Method 1. Calculation 1 (see Fig. 3a).
10.2.6 For all drying methods, allow Option 3 should be used with Marking 12.1.1 Calculate percent change in
specimens to dry completely before Method 2. skew to the nearest 0.1% using equation
washing again. 11.2 Marking Method 1, Calculation 1,
10.2.7 Repeat the selected washing and Option 1 (see Fig. 3a).
drying procedure for a total of 3 complete 11.2.1 Measure and record the diagonal X = |100 × [2 (AC – BD)/(AC + BD)]| (1)
cycles, or an agreed upon number of cy- length of AC and BD after laundering, to where:
cles. the nearest millimeter, or eighth or tenth X = % change in skew
10.3 Conditioning. of an inch (see Fig. 3a).
10.3.1 After final drying cycle is com- 11.3 Marking Method 1, Calculation 12.2 Skew Change Calculation Option
plete, condition test specimens as de- Option 2 (see Fig. 3b). 2 (see Fig. 3b).
scribed in section 8. 11.3.1 Extend line AD in each direction 12.2.1 Calculate percent change in
10.4 Ironing (optional). across the width of the specimen. skew to the nearest 0.1% using equation 2,
10.4.1 The wrinkles in most fabrics 11.3.2 Place one side of a right-angle X = 100 × [(AA' + DD')/(AB + CD)] (2)
flatten sufficiently under pressure of a marking device along line AD so that the
measuring instrument at the time of mea- perpendicular side extends to point B. where:
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AATCC TM179-2019 3
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Copyright © 2019 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
when comparing data between laborato- skew change of 3 different garments (jer-
ries, the same option should be used for sey leggings, jersey T-shirt, denim
C calculations. jeans), following this test method. Each
B 12.5 Average the results obtained from lab used only 1 operator and repeated the
equation 1, 2 or 3, for all specimens in test 2 times, on separate days. Laundering
the sample. Note that results of equation was performed in traditional top-loading
1 are reported as absolute values; there washing machines with 1993 AATCC
should be no negative values included in Standard Reference Detergent (powder),
the average. and tumble dryers. Precision of tests per-
12.5.1 If the test is used to establish the formed with other laundering conditions
D condition of the fabric across the width has not been determined.
A (see 7.1.4), calculate averages for each 14.1.1 Table V gives the within-lab
(a)
area separately. and between-lab precision values for this
12.6 Interpretation of Skew Change. study, using Marking Method 1 and Cal-
C 12.6.1 If the skew change for fabric or culation Option 1 on jersey T-shirt sam-
garment specimens after 1 full launder- ples.
B ing cycle is within a specification previ- 14.1.2 Table VI gives the within-lab
ously agreed on, continue until an agreed and between-lab precision values for this
upon number of cycles have been com- study, using Marking Method 1 and Cal-
pleted. culation Option 2 on jersey T-shirt sam-
12.6.2 If the change in skew exceeds a ples.
90° specification previously agreed on, termi- 14.1.3 Table VII gives the within-lab
nate the test. and between-lab precision values for this
90°
D D'
study, using Marking Method 2 and Cal-
A A' 13. Report culation Option 3 on jersey leggings and
(b) denim jeans samples.
13.1 Report for each sample tested:
14.2 Bias. Skew resulting from home
13.1.1 A description or identification
laundering can be defined only in terms
of the sample.
B of a test method. There is no indepen-
13.1.2 Evaluation was performed using
AATCC TM179-2019.
13.1.3 Type of ballast used, i.e., Type 1
or Type 3. Table V—Precision Values for Marking
13.1.4 Number of laundering cycles Method 1, Calculation Option 1
(default is 3 cycles, see 10.2.7).
13.1.5 Laundering conditions, includ- Within Between
ing washing machine cycle, wash temper- n Laboratory Laboratory
ature, drying procedure and tumble-dry- 1 0.8900 2.1820
ing temperature, if applicable. Alpha- 2 0.6303 1.5453
numeric designations may be used if they 3 0.5138 1.2597
are clearly understood by all parties. For
example, 1-IV-A(ii) indicates normal Note: Mean change in skew after laundering for all
wash cycle at 49°C and Delicate tumble interlab measurements of jersey T-shirt was 3.7%.
90° Z dry cycle.
Y 13.1.6 If specimens were distorted or
A A' wrinkled in their original state. Table VI—Precision Values for Marking
13.1.7 If specimens were hand ironed. Method 1, Calculation Option 2
(c) 13.1.8 Marking method used (Method Within Between
1 or 2) n Laboratory Laboratory
Fig. 3—Final (after laundering) markings 13.1.9 Calculation option used (Option
1, 2 or 3) 1 0.9531 2.4617
for measurement and skew Calculation 2 0.6750 1.7434
Option 1 (a), Calculation Option 2 (b), 13.1.10 Number of specimens tested
3 0.5503 1.4212
and Calculation Option 3 (c). (default is 3).
13.1.11 Average skew change, to the Note: Mean change in skew after laundering for all
nearest 0.1%, for the sample. interlab measurements of jersey T-shirt was 3.2%.
X = % change in skew 13.1.12 Average skew change, to the
nearest 0.1%, for each area evaluated
12.3 Skew Change Calculation Option (e.g., left-side, center, right-side), if appli- Table VII—Precision Values for Marking
3 (see Fig. 3c). cable. Method 1, Calculation Option 3
12.3.1 Calculate percent change in 13.1.13 Any modifications of the test
method, including alternate benchmark Within Between
skew to nearest 0.1% using equation 3, n Laboratory Laboratory
distances.
X = 100 × (AA'/AB) (3) 1 0.3693 1.4140
2 0.2615 1.0014
where: 14. Precision and Bias 3 0.2132 0.8164
X = % change in skew
14.1 Precision. Four different laborato-
Note: Grand mean of change in skew after laundering
12.4 The calculation of Option 1 is re- ries participated in an interlaboratory for all interlab measurements was 1.4%. Mean change
lated on a mathematical basis to the cal- study to measure fabric skew change after in skew for jersey leggings was 1.3%. Mean change in
culations of Options 2 and 3; however, home laundering. All 4 labs measured the skew for denim jeans was 1.6%.
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methods. ter measurement precision. If alternate size vised 2008. Editorially revised 2005. Revised
15.5 For model number(s) of washer(s) and specimens or benchmarks are used, skew 2004. Editorially revised and reaffirmed 2001.
tumble dryers(s) reported to meet the standard change results may not be equal to those ob- Reaffirmed 1996. Revised 1995.
parameters, visit [Link]/test/washers tained with 250-mm (10-in.) marks. 16.3 Developed in 1994 by AATCC Com-
or contact AATCC, PO Box 12215, Research 15.10 The laundering temperatures and mittee RA42.
AATCC TM179-2019 5
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Copyright © 2019 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists