Lesson Plan

SHANTO-MARIAM UNIVERSITY OF CREATIVE

TECHNOLOGY

Module Title
Knitwear Design-Fully Fashioned

Module Code:
KNT-3205
9th & 6th Semester

Module Leader: [Link] Amin

Prepared

Pjjhki7yyykoj

Updated on 20/02/2025
 MODULE CONTINUOUS ASSESSMENT TIMETABLE

Course : B.A (Hon’s) in Fashion Design & Technology

Year & Semester : 4th Years
Module Title : 8th Semester
Module Code : KNT -3205
Credits :2
Assessment Mode : Class test, Assignment & Written Exam.

Assessment
MID Final
Description 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Term
9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18
Exam
Weeks

Class test

5% 5%
20% 40%
Written Written
Exam Exam

Assignment
10% 10%

NB: 5% mark is in Class attendance in Midterm and 5% is in Final Examination

Module Leader: [Link] Amin

Team members: Reashad Bin Kabir

Module Title :Knitwear design-Fully Fashioned
Module Code : KNT 3205
Year of Study : 4th Years (9th) Semester
Contact Hours : Lecture (1 hr 20 minutes/ Week)
Credits :2

Introduction

This module aims to make well understand about the knitwear manufacturing and designing technology. The student
will be able get complete knowledge about knitting yarn, machine and making process how a knit garments is made.
This lesson specially design for Fully Fashion knitwear, side by side knitwear manufacturing process to will be
highlighted.
Aims and Objectives

After completion of this module, students should be able to:

- Know sweater manufacturing process, yarn consumption and price quotation.
- Knitting fabric manufacturing process and yarn consumption.
Complete idea about latest development in knitting and sweater manufacturing machine.

Assessment

Mark Distribution
A. Class attendance: 05
Class test 10
Presentation + Assignment 05
Mid- Term Examination 20
40

Mark Distribution
B. Class attendance: 05
Class test 10
Presentation + Assignment 5
Semester Final Examination 40
60
Total 100

Reference books:
1) Knitting Technology-David J. Spencer
2) Circular Knitting- Lyer, Mammel & Schach
3) The Technology of Textile Properties- Taylor M
 Week: 09
Lecture: 09
LECTURE TITLE: Fully Fashion Knitwear Style Analysis

Body Styles

A) Straight Bottom:

B) A line shape:

C) Fitted Bottom:

Men’s (Less Rib width)

Ladies (Rib width more)

D) Button through Cardigan:

Cardigan must be included button or zipper in front.

E) Zipper through cardigan:

E) Pull Over (No button):

F) Hood Pull over:

G) Ladies Vest (Sleeve less):

Neck Style:
A. Crew Neck (Bigger Upper Shape)

B. Ballet Neck (Smaller Upper shape)

C. Mock Turtle Neck:

D. Shawl Neck:

Men’s Shawl neck

 Ladies Shawl neck

Shoulder Style:

A. Set in Sleeve:

B. Straight Sleeve

C. Reglan Sleeve.

[Link] Shoulder.

E. Classic Shoulder
Collar Style:
i. Mock Neck
ii. Round Neck
iii. Boat Neck
iv. Sailor Neck
v. V-Insert Neck
vi. V-neck
vii. Polo Neck
viii. Granded Collar
ix. High Neck
x. Turtle Neck
xi. Hooded Collar
xii. Round neck with roll edge
xiii. China Collar
Sleeve Style:

1. Sleeve less
2. Cap Sleeve
3. Short Sleeve
 4. ¾ Sleeve
5. Long Sleeve

Pocket Style:
1. Plain Pocket
2. Hexagonal
3. Round
4. Square
5. Hidden
6. Below
7. Real Flap pocket
8. Fake Flap Pocket
9. Fake Lip Pocket
10. Inverted Pocket
11. Box Placket pocket
12. Kangaroo Pocket
 Week: 10
Lecture: 10

LECTURE TITLE: KNIT FABRIC STITCHES/DESIGN

Different types of stitches/design used in fully fashioned knitwear:

Visual Swatch Analysis

1. Basic Type: 1) Jersey 2) Rib ( 1X1, 2X2, 2X1, 3X2)

2. Cables:
1. Normal Cables
2. Fancy Cables
3. Butterfly Cables

3. Diamond:
1. Normal Diamond
2. Fancy Diamond
3. Pointal Fancy Diamond
4. Half Diamond Stitch
5. Half Pointal

4. Drop Stich

5. Pointal

6. Half Shager

7. Full Shager

8. Milano Stitch

9. Tuck Stitch

10. Pineapple Stitch

11. Zigzag stitch

There are three types of Cable stitch:
a) Normal / Single Cable Stitch.

b) 2 lines joined Cable Stitch

Figure: 2-Lines joined cable stitch

Pattern of Pointelle Stitch:

Diamond Stitch:

I. Tuck Stitch: Single tiny hole or both side tiny holes

Pattern of Honey comb:

K. Moss Stitch:

Analysis of Sweater Knitting Yarn & Visual Identification

Yarn available in local market:
1) 100% Cotton
2) 100% Acrylic.
3) 100% Cashmere like.
4) 100% Acrylic Mohair like.
5) 70% Acrylic & 30% Wool
6) 100% Rayon.
7) 100% Nylon.
8) 95% Cotton & 5% Lycra.
9) 65% Rayon & 35% Nylon.
10) 60% Viscose & 40% Cotton.
11) Silver lurex.
12) 65% Viscose & 35 % Cotton

Formula of producing different gauges sweater using different quality of yarn:

Gauge Yarn ( 100% Acrylic) Count Ply

1.5 100% Acrylic 2/32 8
3 100% Acrylic 2/32 6
5 100% Acrylic 2/32 4
7 100% Acrylic 2/32 2
12 100% Acrylic 2/32 1

Gauge Yarn (100% Acrylic Cashmere like) Count Ply

1.5 100% Acrylic Cashmere like 2/28 8
3 100% Acrylic Cashmere like 2/28 6
5 100% Acrylic Cashmere like 2/28 4
7 100% Acrylic Cashmere like 2/26 2
12 100% Acrylic Cashmere like 2/36 1

Gauge Yarn ( 100% Cotton) Count Ply

1.5 100% Cotton 2/20 11
3 100% Cotton 2/20 8
5 100% Cotton 2/20 5
7 100% Cotton 2/20 3
12 100% Cotton 2/32 or 2/30 2

Gauge Yarn ( 70% Acrylic 30% Wool) Count Ply

1.5 70/30 Acrylic wool 2/28 or 2/32 8
3 70/30 Acrylic wool 2/28 or 2/32 6
5 70/30 Acrylic wool 2/28 or 2/32 4
7 70/30 Acrylic wool 2/28 or 2/32 2
12 70/30 Acrylic wool 2/36 1

Gauge Peak season Off-peak season

3,5,7 gauges March to August September to February
12 gauges September to February March to August
 Week: 11
Lecture: 11

Lecture Title: DESIGN CHART MAKING/ SHAPING CALCULATION OF SWEATER

GARMENTS
Design Chart
&
Calculation the Fashioning Sequence of the Knitted Panel

Design Chart: Design chart is a representation of some written instruction.

Basic Requirement to Calculate Design Chart

1. Size Specification
2. Types of gauge
3. Weight of garments
4. Tension
Etc.
Problem: Prepare a design chart based on given instruction ,Neck width A-
A1=10″ arm pit to arm pit ,B-B1=20″,Bottom width C-C1=20″,rib width 2″,rib to
armhole start point 15″ straight armhole to neck line ( Raglan) 10″.Say tension:
WPI=3 & CPI=[Link] also fashioning sequence bottom rib to neckline.
 Week: 12
Lecture: 12

Lecture Title: Quality Guidelines of Sweaters

According sweater production process, quality control analysis of each process, the enterprise only to
establish self-inspection, mutual inspection and professionals. Check quality supervision system, and
constantly improve the quality of staff, quality of products in order to have a good guarantee.

First, we must understand the sweater process: raw material inspection → → → knitting machine section
inspection and repair of semi-finished garment sewing section → → → stitched semi-finished products
inspection and repair handstitching inspection of semi-finished stitching section → → → wash wash
shrink section reduced inspection and repair of semi-finished ironing section → → → ironing semi-
finished products inspection and repair nails standard product inspection and repair → packaging and
storage .
Methods / steps

1
Ingredients:
Quality yarn sweaters directly related to the quality of products, related materials must be carefully
selected , without inspection or test does not meet the criteria may not deliver the yarn is produced .
2
Workshop management

Internal quality management issues are largely only well-managed , sound organization , good quality of
personnel, and to strictly enforce the standards of the enterprise, in order to better the quality of their
products , reputation of peers and consumers can be good , market share will be high , whereas the quality
of products on the easy problems.

3
Knitting machine section

Strict implementation of process quality management system, effective control of the process on the
machine and found that the problem can be solved in time. On a single machine is a crucial step process
woven sweaters products, craft requires a strong sense of responsibility, but also adhere to the three
signatory is responsible for the system. When proofing strict feedback form to fill in the complex board,
as shown in Table 1.

Generally a plate can be repeated three times on a batch machine, first proofing, the modified complex
board, according to customer requirements, last modified fixed plate, feeding mass production.
When mass production, process guidance workers to fill semi-finished products to strictly check list, as
shown in Table 2 .
Table 2 each individually filled, craft workers to guide each employee must be tested first product to fill
orders, with proportionally random testing products and fill orders, and there are problems timely
feedbacks to the Tenders.

When semi-finished garment inspection , inspection work should be based on the size of the process one
by one to check a single piece of clothing , pull , plus or minus the number of stitches and knit the defect ,
fill process card , promptly repair or rework and inspection of feedback to the workshop, in a timely
manner adjustments.

4
Sewing section, stitching section

To strictly according to process requirements and process operation, the first product produced by the
process according to the guidance of workers required by person -by- piece inspection , be sure to fill out
the check list, with proportionally random testing products and fill orders. Inspection of semi-finished
stitching , stitching semi-finished products inspection , testing should also be carefully piece by piece
according to process requirements and filling orders .
5
Wash shrink section

Wash shrink by an decontamination process, you can get two beautiful look, feel rich, soft, smooth and
warm and good results. Wash sweaters shrink process directly affects the surface of villus height and
texture, wash shrinkage process has a greater impact on the quality of the sweater, which requires Xishan
work in strict accordance with wash shrinkage process operation, fill in the Xishan process record sheet.
6
Ironing section

In sweaters ironing, the ironing workers operate strictly according to process requirements, strict testing
and inspection work to fill out the ironing process inspection records, as shown in Table 3.

7
Standard product inspection and repair nails

This step is the last one factory inspection process, requiring inspection stations have a strong sense of
responsibility, carefully inspected and filling orders.
END
Precautions
To ensure the quality of products, in addition to the strict inspection of each section , it should also set up
quality inspection department , responsible for tracking random testing for each section , and timely
records of each section of the test will be compiled and analyzed , and better quality control.

With the development of enterprises, the device updates faster , new materials emerging, diversify
product design , which requires the operator on the basis of existing experience and accept new
knowledge and new work procedures, improve their skills , only highly qualified staff in order to produce
qualified products. Enterprises to develop , it must be the introduction of talent and training, establish and
improve talent

Training colleges can be taken with a joint approach to establish mechanisms for long-term training ,
training management personnel and skilled workers of enterprises, so that the development of enterprises
continue to inject new vitality.

Product quality is the key to managing sweater, strict inspection system and high-quality workforce.
Enterprise development must adopt modern management, the adoption of international quality
certification standards; there are plans to train employees, the introduction of high-quality personnel.

Explain Quality Guidelines of Sweaters

• PP sample check
• material check
• Accessories check
• workmanship details check
• lead time planning ( T&A)

• Knitting check in random

• Linking check in random
• Lamp check 100%
• Sewing/stitching Check 100%
• Printing/embroidery Check 100%
• Washing Check
• Iron Check in random
* Measurement Check 100%
* Accessories (hangtag/label/logo) check 100%
* Package check
• Media QC Report
Inline Inspection

• Inspection Basis (AQL/MIL STD)

• Packing check in random
• Poly bag Sticker in random
• Label And Tag in random
• Overall Appearance Check in random
• Symmetry Check in random
* Color 、hand feel check in random
* Measurement check in random
* Workman ship check in random
* Carton check (quality/measurement/shipping mark/content) in random
• Final QC Report

Final Inspection

Quality Legal Standard

Materials Quality Standard
Performance Specifications
• Embroidery
• Heart-Shaped
• Rib Collar
• Hoodie
• Zipper Open Bag
• Flower Bar
• Cardigan Style
 Week: 13
Lecture: 13
LECTURE TITLE: YARN CONSUMPTION CALCULATION AND COSTING OF
SWEATER GARMENTS.

Weight Calculation: Suppose, 250 gms yarn are required for the production of a sweater then
weight calculation will be as follows:

= 250 gm
= (250x12) gm
= 3000 gm
= 3 kg
= 3x2.20
=6.6147 lb/dozen

Yarn: 80% Lambswool 20% Nylon 2/16

CM (Cost of Manufacturing) for Peak & Off-peak season:

Gauge Off-peak Peak
3 $17 $19
5 $18 $20
7 $19 $21
12 $22 $24

Costing of Sweater:

A Sample costing procedure is described below:

Suppose,

01) Yarn used for making sweater 100% Acrylic

02) Yarn needed 7.5 lbs/Dzn
03) Sweater gauge 3 gg.
04) Ship Date: 30 September,2010
05) Ship mode: FOB
06) L/C at Sight.
07) Normal garment test from ITS
08) Plastic Button & Stopper 36 L

Total yarn is needed with wastages:

= 7.5+ 10% wastages
=8.25 lbs

Now Yarn price= 8.25 x $2.00 (yarn price $ 2.00 /lbs)

=$ 16.5
Final Cost Sheet:
Yarn ------------------ ---------------- $ 16.5 / Dzn
Button / Stopper-------- $ 6.2+$ 3= $ 9.2
Draw Cord----------------------------- $ 1.25
Trim’s ----------------------------------- $ 4.00
CM--------------------------------------- $ 19.00

Others----------------------------------- $ 3.00
Total = $ 52.95 / Dzn

$52.95+10% = $ 55/ Dzn

= $ 4.5/ Pc (FOB)

2. Calculate the FOB Consumption, costing/pricing per Dozen of the following

product?

Lady’s pullover with High neck, Drop shoulder, Cap sleeve. All over Jersey stitch
with 8 lines fancy Diamond stitch in front part. Collar, cuff & bottom 1X1 rib.
Material type 100 % acrylic, Gauge type 12, expected weight 18 lb /dz. Delivery
time Nov 10th 2026, Yarn price $3:00/ lb ,Trims $7 ,others $5.

Yarn Consumption= 18+10%=18+1.8=19.8 lb/dz

Yarn Price = 19.8 x 3=$59.4/dz

Styling Charge= $0.25
Designing Charge= 1.50 x 8=$12
CM= $26
Trims=$7
Commercial –others=$5
Total Cost= $110/dz Ans.
A men’s cardigan with raglan shoulder V-neek all over jersey stitch in front part 2-
line normal cable stitch, 100% cotton yarn machine Gauge 3,Expected Weight
20Lbs/[Link] date 23 january2022…..calculate the consumption costing &
pricing ---Yarn price $4/Lbs , Trims $5 ,others $6.
 Week-14
Lecture: 14
Sustainable Production Practices in Fully Fashioned Knitwear
Fully Fashioned Knitwear (FFK) is inherently more sustainable than cut-and-sew
knitwear because garments are knitted to shape, minimizing fabric waste.
However, sustainability can be further enhanced through the following practices:

1. Design & Product Development

Knit-to-shape design reduces yarn waste by eliminating cutting losses.

Timeless designs and durable constructions extend garment life.
Digital sampling (CAD / CLO 3D) reduces physical samples, saving yarn,
energy, and time.

2. Sustainable Raw Materials

Organic cotton, recycled polyester, recycled nylon reduce environmental

impact.
Natural fibers like wool, merino, bamboo, and Tencel™ are biodegradable.
Responsible sourcing (e.g., RWS wool, GOTS cotton) ensures ethical and
eco-friendly materials

3. Efficient Knitting Technology

WholeGarment / Seamless knitting machines reduce waste, sewing, and

energy use.
Advanced flat knitting machines optimize yarn consumption and
production efficiency.
Lower machine downtime reduces power and resource waste.

4. Energy & Resource Management

 Energy-efficient knitting machines reduce electricity consumption.
Renewable energy use (solar, wind) lowers carbon footprint.
Water-saving dyeing and finishing techniques reduce water usage.

5. Sustainable Dyeing & Finishing

Low-impact and natural dyes reduce chemical pollution.

Dope-dyed or yarn-dyed fibers save water and energy compared to piece
dyeing.
Zero-discharge and effluent treatment plants (ETP) protect water bodies.

6. Waste Reduction & Recycling

Minimal yarn waste due to fully fashioned knitting.

Recycling leftover yarn into new products.
Waste segregation for better recycling and disposal.

7. Ethical & Social Responsibility

Fair wages and safe working conditions improve social sustainability.

Skill development for machine operators enhances productivity and quality.
Compliance with international standards (BSCI, WRAP, SEDEX).

8. Packaging & Logistics

Eco-friendly packaging (recycled paper, biodegradable polybags).

Optimized logistics and local sourcing reduce transportation emissions.

9. Product Use & End-of-Life

Durable knit structures increase product lifespan.

Easy-to-recycle mono-material garments support circular fashion.
 Take-back and recycling programs reduce landfill waste.

Fully Fashioned Knitwear production supports sustainability through reduced

material waste, efficient resource use, and advanced knitting technology. By
combining responsible raw materials, energy-efficient processes, ethical labor
practices, and circular design principles, the FFK industry can significantly lower
its environmental footprint while maintaining high quality and value.
 Week: 15
Lecture: 15
Trend Analysis and Design Innovation in Fully Fashioned Knitwear
Fashion trend analysis of fully fashioned knitwear is the systematic study of changing
consumer preferences, design directions, and market demands related to sweaters and knit
garments produced by shaping during knitting (not cutting). This analysis helps designers,
merchandisers, and manufacturers develop commercially successful and fashionable knitwear
collections.

1. Purpose of Trend Analysis in Fully Fashioned Knitwear

To forecast future styles, silhouettes, and details

To align knitwear designs with market demand
To reduce design and production risk
To plan yarn selection, machine gauge, and costing
To remain competitive in global knitwear markets

2. Key Elements of Fashion Trend Analysis in FFK

a. Silhouette & Fit Trends

Slim fit, relaxed fit, oversized, boxy shapes
Cropped sweaters, longline pullovers
Dropped shoulder, raglan, saddle shoulder, straight shoulder

Impact on FFK: Requires shaping through increases and decreases during knitting.

b. Yarn & Fiber Trends

Natural fibers: cotton, wool, merino, cashmere
Sustainable fibers: recycled polyester, recycled acrylic, organic cotton
Blended yarns for comfort and durability

Trend drivers: Sustainability, comfort, seasonality, cost.

c. Color & Shade Trends
Seasonal color palettes (Pantone forecasts)
Earth tones, pastels, neutrals, bold accent colors
Melange and heather effects

FFK advantage: Clean color definition due to precise knitting.

d. Structure & Stitch Pattern Trends

Cables, ribs (1×1, 2×2), tuck and miss stitches
Jacquard, intarsia, engineered patterns
Texture-focused designs

FFK strength: Complex stitch patterns with accurate shaping.

e. Gauge & Fabric Weight Trends

Coarse gauge (3G–5G): chunky, winter, casual looks
Medium gauge (7G–9G): all-season wear
Fine gauge (12G–14G): lightweight, premium fashion

f. Neckline & Design Detail Trends

Crew neck, V-neck, mock neck, polo neck
Button plackets, zipper details
Contrast trims, fancy ribs, decorative bindings

3. Market & Consumer Influence

Fast fashion vs premium knitwear brands

Regional preferences (EU, USA, Japan)
Lifestyle changes (work-from-home → comfort knitwear)
Gender-neutral and minimal designs

4. Sustainability Trends in FFK

Zero-waste production (no cutting loss)

 Eco-friendly yarns
Long-lasting, timeless designs
Energy-efficient knitting machines

FFK is inherently sustainable due to shaped knitting.

5. Sources of Trend Information

Fashion forecasting agencies (WGSN, Pantone)

International fashion weeks
Knitwear trade fairs (Pitti Filati, Spinexpo)
Brand collections and retail analysis
Social media and street fashion

6. Application of Trend Analysis in Industry

Design development and sample planning

Machine programming and gauge selection
Costing and merchandising strategy
Buyer presentation and order confirmation

Fashion trend analysis in fully fashioned knitwear bridges creativity and technology. By
understanding trends in silhouette, yarn, color, structure, and sustainability, knitwear
manufacturers and designers can create stylish, market-relevant, and commercially successful
FFK products.
 Week: 16
Lecture: 16

Modern Technological Developments in Fully Fashioned Knitwear Industry

Fully Fashioned Knitwear refers to sweaters and knit garments where each panel is shaped
during knitting, rather than cut from fabric. Modern technological advancements have
transformed this sector by improving design precision, production efficiency, sustainability,
customization, and quality control. Today’s fully fashioned sweaters are produced using
computerized, automated, and intelligent systems, integrating digital design and smart
manufacturing.

1. 3D & Seamless Knitting Technology

One of the biggest shifts in modern knitwear is making garments without seams using digital
knitting machines.
  Whole Garment / Complete Garment Knitting:
Advanced machines like Shima Seiki’s WHOLEGARMENT produce a complete sweater
in one go — no cutting or sewing required, reducing material waste dramatically and
improving fit and comfort.

 Benefits:
Up to 90% less fabric waste vs traditional cut-and-sew methods.
Better fit through 3D knit shaping.
Faster time to market with automated production.

2. Digital Design, AI & CAD Integration

Technology isn’t just in the machines — it’s also in how designs are created and optimized.

CAD (Computer-Aided Design):

Designers can create intricate knit patterns and simulate garments before production,
reducing sample waste and errors.
 AI-Assisted Tools:
Artificial intelligence helps generate design variations, optimize production parameters,
and enhance fit models.
Virtual Prototyping & Simulation:
Software like CLO3D allows real-time evaluation of knitwear fit, texture, and
performance without physical samples.

3. Automation, Robotics & Smart Production

The knitwear factory is becoming automated and smarter, with robotics and sensors:

Automated Knitting Robots:

High-precision robotic arms combined with digital control knit garments based on 3D
scans or specifications.
AI & IoT in Manufacturing:
Real-time monitoring systems detect defects, optimize yarn tension, and reduce waste.
Automated quality control:
Machine vision and sensors can pause production when flaws appear — reducing losses.

4. Sustainable & Eco-Conscious Innovation

Sustainability is central to modern knitwear technology:

Recycled & Bio-Based Yarns:

Use of recycled polyester, organic cotton, bamboo, and regenerative fibers is increasing.
Zero-Waste & Circular Production:
Technologies like seamless knitting reduce offcuts and support circular fashion goals. l
Digital Sampling Saves Resources:
Virtual sampling cuts down water use, waste, and carbon footprint in early design stages.

5. Smart & Functional Knitwear

Fashion is merging with functionality:

Conductive Yarns & E-Textiles:

Yarn integrated with electronics enables garments that can monitor health, track
movement, or interact with devices.
Thermo regulating Knit:
Materials engineered to adapt to body temperature — warming or cooling as needed.

6. Digital Supply Chain & Traceability

Beyond production, technology streamlines the whole knitwear lifecycle:

 Block chain:
Used to track sweater materials from source to finished garment, boosting transparency
and consumer trust.
Smart Logistics & Inventory:
AI optimizes shipping routes and keeps inventory lean, reducing environmental impact.

7. Specialized Machinery & Techniques

Traditional machines are also advancing:

Jacquard Knitting:
Enables highly detailed patterns and color work directly in knit fabric.
Circular & Multi-Gauge Knitting Machines:
Produce varied textures and knit densities in one garment.

8. Industry Trends & Adoption

Industry events like the Dhaka International Textile & Garment Machinery Exhibition (DTG)
2025 highlighted how Bangladesh and other apparel hubs are adopting:

Computerized knitting machines

AI quality control systems
Automation for higher efficiency and variety
 Week: 17
Lecture: 17

Review and Problem Solving Class.

Assignment Submission