REVIEW ARTICLE Sept-Oct 2020

Cosmetic Toxicity & Its Management - An

Ayurvedic Perspective
Prima Stanly1, K. V. Asha2
1
Final Year Post Graduate Scholar, 2Professor & HOD, Department of Agad Tantra, VPSV Ayurveda College, Kottakkal,
Kerala, INDIA.

ABSTRACT
People in every civilization used cosmetics to protect and embellish their skin, which naturally leads us
to conclude that this is a primordial need. The demand of cosmetic products have increased in recent
times, resulting in massive production without following any standard guidelines. Many of them
contain dangerous ingredients such as Hydroquinone, Talcum, Parabens, Phthalates, Fragrance, Heavy
metals like Lead, Arsenic etc. Studies have shown that about 50% skin fairness face creams available
in India contain steroids. Due to long term use, it accumulates in the body and can cause irritation,
increased susceptibility to infections, Kidney and Liver damage, Reproductive toxicity and
Carcinogenicity. In Ayurveda, the concept of Gara Visha can be well incorporate with Cosmetic
toxicity. Acarya Susruta mentions about various Gara Visha Adhishtanas and its different
manifestations. The widespread use of cosmetic products is increasingly recognized as a public health
and social justice issue due to the deleterious health side effects and the potential reinforcement of
racial and social inequalities. So this article review the concepts of Cosmetic toxicity in Ayurveda, their
prevention and management.

Key words: Cosmetic Toxicity, Gara Visha, Parabens, Talc, Heavy Metals.

INTRODUCTION beauty products. Now there is an increase in demand

Skin fairness has been understood to be a cultural of organic, herbal and Ayurvedic products. The trend
marker of class, wealth, beauty and social status for is primarily a result of growing health consciousness.
centuries. Global cosmetic market values about US$ The advertising industry in particular is argued to play
58.6 billion in 2018 and the market is expected to a significant role in reinforcing and capitalizing on
grow annually by 6.4% (CAGR 2019-2023). The cause stereotypical notions of caste, age, race, and beauty.[1]
of this unbelievable growth may be the rising Due to this, nowadays the use of cosmetic products
disposable income, growth of upper middle class are increasing worldwide. But here comes the
population and increasing awareness about the question. Do all the cosmetics we are using safe?

Address for correspondence: The demand of cosmetic products ranging from skin-
Prima Stanly lightening creams, deodorants, face powder, lotion,
Final Year Post Graduate Scholar,
Department of Agad Tantra, VPSV Ayurveda College, Kottakkal,
shampoo, etc. have increased in recent times,
Kerala, INDIA. resulting in massive production without following any
E-mail: prima173@[Link] standard guidelines. Government reports in the US
Submission Date: 12/09/2020 Accepted Date: 05/10/2020
Access this article online
and EU indicate that about 90% of the ingredients
Quick Response Code used in cosmetics are not safe for people in the long-
Website: [Link] term.[2] In Ayurveda, the toxic cosmetic ingredient can
be correlated with Gara Visha (artificial poison) and
symptoms of cosmetic toxicities can also be well
Published by Maharshi Charaka
Ayurveda Organization, Vijayapur, explained under various Gara Visha Adhishtanas
Karnataka (Regd) under the license CC- (source of Gara Visha).
by-NC-SA

Journal of Ayurveda and Integrated Medical Sciences | Sept - Oct 2020 | Vol. 5 | Issue 5 297
 Prima Stanly et al. Cosmetic Toxicity & Its Management - An Ayurvedic Perspective

ISSN: 2456-3110 REVIEW ARTICLE Sept-Oct 2020

HISTORY OF COSMETICS Breast cancer

Fragrance Almost all Good smell Clogs

The word cosmetics derives from a Greek word-
cosmetics lymphatic
‘Kosmeticos’ which means art of dress and ornament. system
FDA defines cosmetics as the substances which are Endocrine
intended to be applied to the human body for disruption
cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or Organ system
altering the appearance without affecting the body’s toxicity
structure or functions. Around 10000 BC Egyptian
Talc Eye shadow Absorbent Lung tumour
were started to use scented oils and creams. Around
Blush Ovarian
840 BC Romans and Greeks started to use cosmetics. cancer
Baby powder
They used lead ore and copper to improve the
Deodorant
complexion and ochre clays and red iron as lipstick.
Later the toxic lead combo was replaced by zinc oxide. Face powder

While coming into the Indian cosmetic history, use of Formaldehyde Nail products, Preservative Cancer
turmeric, kajal, henna preparations were more Hair dye, Fake
prevalent at that time. They used different kinds of oil eyelash
adhesives,
for massaging and used butter/ ghee to protect the lip
Shampoos
from cracking. To improve complexion and to fight
against acne Chandana (Sandal wood), Agaru (Agar), Phthalates Fragrance Solvent and Headaches,
Perfumes fixative in Asthma,
Nimba (Neem), Kumkuma (Saffron) etc. were used.[3]
fragrances Dermatitis,
Deodorants
Classification of Cosmetics Denaturant Endocrine
Lotions disruption,
Cosmetics can be broadly classified into 4 categories; Liver/Kidney/
Lung damage,
1. Skin care cosmetics - cleansers, toners, Cancer
moisturizers, creams, lotions, sunscreens etc.
Lead Lipstick Contaminants Cancer
2. Hair care cosmetics - shampoo, conditioners, hair
Hair dye Neurotoxicity
spray, gel etc.
Mercury Mascara Contaminants Allergen
3. Colour/ make up cosmetics - primer, concealer,
some eye Impairs brain
compact powder, foundation, mascara, eye liner, drops development
lip stick, lip liner etc.
Sodium Lauryl Used in Surfactant Eye and skin
4. Fragrance/ perfumes Sulfate (SLS, foaming irritation
SLES) cosmetics such Depression
Table 1: Major toxic contents in the Cosmetics[2],[4],[5] as shampoos,
Liver damage
cleansers,
Content Product Purpose Toxic effect
soaps. Cancer
BHA & BHT Moisturizers Anti-oxidant Endocrine
Toluene Nail polish Solvent Reproductive
disruption
Hair dye Colouring &
Cancer development
agent
al damage
DEA-related Moisturizers Thicken the Cancer
ingredients aqueous Liver and
Shampoo
portion Kidney
damage
Parabens Body lotions Preservative Endocrine
disruption Oxybenzone Sunscreen Protects from Contact
Diaper wipes

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UVB rays allergies, Jwara (fever), Mamsanam Daranam (deep seated

photo ulcers) etc. Mukhalepa Visha produces symptoms
allergies
Endocrine
similar to that of Abyanga Visha with additional
disruption symptoms like Syavamukha (blackish discolouration of
Organ system the face) and thorny eruptions like those found in the
toxicity Padminikantaka (lotus flower).[8]

p- Hair dye Colouring Skin irritation, DISCUSSION

phenylenedia agent Liver toxicity
mine Ayurvedic management of Cosmetic toxicity
Birth defects
Cancer Samanya Chikitsa (general management) of Gara
Visha is mainly Sodhana (purifactory therapies) -
CONCEPT OF GARA VISHA Vamana (emesis) and Virecana (purgation). Along
with this Hridayavarana treatment (protection of
As per the classics, Gara Visha is mainly an artificial
Heart), administration of Swarna (gold), Samana
poison which can be prepared from the combination
Prayogas (palliative treatment) can be utilized.[9] But
of substances which are not poisonous in nature or
in case of cosmetic toxicity, Samana therapies
weak poisons. It can be drugs, chemicals,
(palliative) will be more useful than Sodhana
incompatible foods, alcohols, body parts of insects
therapies (purifactory). Because usually we are
etc. It causes physical, psychological and social issues.
identifying cosmetic toxicity of immediate nature like
According to Cakrapani, “as it takes much time for
urticarial reaction, allergic dermatitis etc. So Samana
digestion Gara Visha is always Cirakarirogajanaka”
(palliative therapies) will be more apt for this
(which does not endanger life soon).[6] But Vagbhata
condition. Here we can use both internal and external
says that the symptoms may manifest immediately/
therapies with drugs having properties like Pācana
after some time/ after long time.[7] In case of cosmetic
(promoting digestion), Deepana (kindling digestive
toxicity also, the signs and symptoms usually manifest
fire), especially with vishshara (anti-toxic) properties.
in different time periods. Some cosmetic ingredients
According to the condition, we can use internal
produce immediate effects like non-immunological
medicines like Lodrasevyadi Kashaya, Guluchyadi
allergic contact dermatitis, immunological dermatitis,
Kashaya, Drakshadi Kashaya, Murvadi Churna,
contact urticarial syndrome etc. eg: Benzoic acid,
Dushivishari Gulika, Dasanga Gulika and external
Cinnamic acid, Cinnamal, Methyl nicotinate, SLS,
medicines like Pathyakshadathryadi Kshalanam
Formaldehyde etc. On long term usage some
(pouring of medicated water), Neelidaladi Keram,
produces toxic effects like endocrine disruption,
Paranthyadi Keram, Sigrupunarnavadi Lepam,
reproductive toxicity and carcinogenicity. eg:
Kottamtakaradi Churnam, Triphala Churnam etc. Gara
Parabens, Fragrance, Triclosan, Phthalates, Talc etc.
Adhishtana treatment can also be incorporate in
Gara Visha Adhishtanas (source/ mode of poisoning) suitable conditions.
Susruta mentions about various Gara Visha Prevention
Adhishtanas. Some of them have direct link with
1. Healthy life style
cosmetic toxicity like Abyanga Visha, Anjana Visha,
Parisheka Visha, Anulepana Visha, Mukhalepa Visha 2. Attitude
etc. If collyrium is poisonous, it will produce Daha 3. Natural methods
(burning sensation), Vedana (pain), Drshti Vibhrama
The best prevention strategy is to maintain a well
(visual difficulties) and Andhyam (blindness). Abyanga
regulated life style. A balanced nutritious diet is
Visha produces symptoms like Sphota (eruptions),
Ruja (pain), Srava (exudation), Twakpaka (ulcer), important in maintaining healthy and beautiful skin.

Journal of Ayurveda and Integrated Medical Sciences | Sept - Oct 2020 | Vol. 5 | Issue 5 299
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ISSN: 2456-3110 REVIEW ARTICLE Sept-Oct 2020

Food with vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin E, polyphenols 3. Chaudhri, Jain. History of cosmetics- A review. Asian J
etc. should be included in the diet.[10] Accept yourself Pharm 2009;3(3). doi: 10.4103/0973-8398.56292.
and Love the way you look is the important one in the 4. Meena Kumari Mahto et al. Role of Ayurvedic
prevention. In Ayurveda, there are so many natural management in chemical toxicity of cosmetics: a
methods mentioned which includes single drug review. Int. J. Res. Ayurveda Pharm 2017;8(2):18-20.
therapy and combinational therapy. For example, as 5. Pereira Jonathas Xavier, Pereira Thaís Canuto.
cleansers we can use Licorice, Manjishta (Indian Cosmetics and its Health Risks. Global Journal of
Madder), Sandal wood, Fenugreek, Lemon peel with Medical Research 2018;18(2). doi:
water/milk/lemon juice/yoghurt. For scrubbing action 10.34257/GJMRBVOL18IS2PG63.
- Oats, Tulasi (Holy basil), Rose petals with water or 6. Trikamji Jathavji editor. Caraka Saṃhitā of Agniveśa
barley, Rice bran, Amalaki (Gooseberry), Neem, (Āyurvedadīpikā, Cakrapāṇidatta, Comme, Sanskrit)
Manjishta (Indian Madder) with lemon/aloe. As face Varanasi: Chaukhambha;2017;p.571.23/14. Mohandas
packs we can use fruits and vegetables with Indological Series.
honey/lemon/yogurt according to the skin texture. 7. Śāstri Hari Sadāśiva editor. Aṣṭāṅga hṛdaya of
For normal skin almond oil will be good as Vāgbhaṭa (Sarvāṅga sundarā, Āyurveda rasāyana,
moisturizer. Arrow root powder mixed with any Comme, Sanskrit) Varanasi:
Suganda Dravyas (aromatic drugs) can be used as face Chaukhambha;2016;p.901.35/6.
powder. As lip balm butter/ghee/Yashti (Licorice) + 8. Trikamji Jathavji editor. Suśruta Saṃhitā of Suśruta
honey or bee wax + butter will be good choice. (Nibandha Saṅgraha, Nyāyachandrikā, Comme,
Traditional Kajal preparation with Sahadevi Moola Sanskrit) Varanasi: Chaukhambha;2012;p.560.1/15-17.
Swarasa (juice of Vernonia cineria) can replace the Kashi Sanskrit Series.
toxic eye care cosmetics.[11],[12]
9. ŚāstriHariSadāśiva editor. Aṣṭāṅgahṛdaya of Vāgbhaṭa
CONCLUSION (Sarvāṅgasundarā, Āyurvedarasāyana, Comme,
Sanskrit) Varanasi: Chaukhambha;2016;p.906.35/55.
The widespread use of cosmetic products is
10. Silke K. Schagen et al. Discovering the link between
increasingly recognized as a public health, nutrition and skin aging. Dermatoendocrinol 2012 Jul
environmental justice, and social justice issue. There 1;4(3):298–307. doi: 10.4161/derm.22876.
is a great demand of application of Ayurveda
11. Shilpa et al. Cosmetology in Ayurveda- A Review. Int. J.
principles in this field. Awareness of the toxic
Ayurvedic med 2014; 2(2):138-142.
ingredients and utilizing the natural products will help
to reduce the incidence of cosmetic toxicity. 12. Das Banamali et al. Cosmetology in Ayurveda and it’s
scope in research. Res. J. Pharmacology and
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Journal of Ayurveda and Integrated Medical Sciences | Sept - Oct 2020 | Vol. 5 | Issue 5 300