A COMPARISON OF THE PROPERTIES OF The yarns posed no major weaving problems except that the

COTTON-COVERED COTTON/ POLYESTER tandem spun yarn caused excessive lint shedding on the
YARNS AND FABRICS REPRESENTING RING, loom. As expected, the two fabrics which used the filament-
FRICTION, AND TANDEM SPINNING core yarns in the filling direction showed the highest
TECHNOLOGIES tensile and tear strengths in the filling direction. However,
P. Radhakrishnaiah, James W. Rose, the fillingwise tensile strength of the tandem spun yarn
and Thanh Khanh Tran fabric was very close to that of the two fabrics that used the
School of Textile and Fiber Engineering filament-core filling yarns and the fillingwise tear strength
Georgia Institute of Technology of the tandem spun yarn fabric fell between that of the
Atlanta, GA fabrics representing the filament-core yarns and other all
A. P. S. Sawhney staple yarns.
USDA, ARS, SRRC
New Orleans, LA. Comparison of the low-stress mechanical behavior of the
stone-washed denim fabrics showed that the fabric
Abstract containing the tandem spun filling yarn gave not only the
maximum compressive softness but also minimum bending
Four cotton covered cotton/polyester yarns were produced and shear rigidities. This fabric, therefore, represented the
using both filaments and staple polyester fibers in the core. best tactile quality and mechanical comfort performance
Three different spinning systems ( ring, friction, and among the experimental fabrics. Fabrics made from cotton
tandem spinning processes) were used to produce the cotton covered filling yarns received better hand ratings from a
covered yarns. For comparison, a 100% cotton yarn and a panel of young judges compared to the fabrics made from
polyester/cotton random blend yarn were also made on a the conventional rotor spun filling yarns.
rotor spinning system. The six different yarns were then
incorporated as filling yarns in a medium weight denim Experimental Procedures
fabric which used 100% cotton rotor yarn in the warp
direction. The fabrics were stone washed in the presence of Yarn and Fabric Production: Table 1 gives the
a softener. The experimental yarns and the washed fabrics construction particulars and production rates of the six
were evaluated for the whole range of quality and different yarns used in this work. Of the four cotton
performance properties. covered yarns, two yarns represented filament-core
construction and the other two represented staple-core
Major differences were observed in the stress-strain construction. Filament-core yarns were produced on ring
behavior of the experimental yarns. The breaking and friction spinning systems while staple-core yarns were
elongation of the tandem spun yarn was found to be higher produced on tandem and friction spinning systems. The
than that of 100% cotton, ring spun filament-core, and possibility of successfully producing core-sheath yarns
friction spun staple-core yarns, while its work of rupture without the need for any modifications to the existing
was found to be higher than that of 100% cotton, and machines was the main guiding principle used in deciding
friction spun staple-core yarns. Tandem spun yarn also what type of yarn is produced on which system. The yarn
showed the lowest initial tensile modulus among the six count was chosen to suit the requirements of the filling yarn
yarns. The friction spun staple-core yarn showed the lowest and the twist levels employed were those considered
average breaking elongation and an unusually high optimum for each system and each yarn. The polyester
variation in strength and elongation. Compared to the fibers used in the rotor spun polyester/cotton yarn were
friction spun filament-core yarn, the ring spun filament- regenerated staple fibers obtained by the melting and re-
core yarn showed higher tensile strength but lower extrusion of transparent soda bottles. All the core-sheath
elongation and lower work of rupture. All the six yarns yarns represented a 30% polyester composition in the yarn
exhibited a near simultaneous rupture behavior under axial while the random blend polyester/cotton yarn represented
loading. Comparison of yarn evenness properties revealed a 67% by weight of recycled polyester fiber in the yarn.
that the yarns containing staple fibers in the core were in The random blend yarn and the 100% cotton yarn were
general more even compared to the filament-core yarns. supplied by a denim manufacturer.
Between the two staple-core yarns (friction and tandem),
the tandem spun yarn showed lower CV% values over a All the six yarns were used as filling yarns to produce six
wide range of cut lengths. This yarn also gave the different denim fabrics in which the only variable was the
minimum imperfection count. filling yarn. A 1.7m wide Nissan air-jet loom running at
700 picks/minute was used to produce the fabrics. The
tandem spun yarn showed excessive linting and lint
accumulation during weaving. The shedding behavior
appears to be the reflection of the low friction drum speeds
Reprinted from the Proceedings of the Beltwide Cotton Conference employed in the fabrication of the experimental yarn.
Volume 2:1491-1495 (1996)
National Cotton Council, Memphis TN Optimization of drum speed, therefore, can be expected to

1491
minimize the shedding problem. The loom-state fabrics Results and Discussion
representing friction and tandem spinning processes gave
a better surface appearance compared to those made from Table 1 gives a description of yarn construction parameters.
the rotor and ring yarns. Stone washing of the fabrics was Table 2 gives the values for measured yarn properties,
performed by a major denim manufacturer, following the while Tables 3, 4, and 5 provide a comparison of measured
standard industry norms. Before stone washing, the fabrics fabric properties.
were sewn into tubes that resembled the legs of typical
Table 1. Yarn construction particulars
denim pants. The experienced operators who worked on the Rotor Spun Ring Spun
sewing machines did not notice needle cuts on any of the 100% Cotton Filament- Friction Spun
fabrics. Also, the operators classified all the six fabrics in Parameter Yarn core Yarn Filament- core Yarn
Count (tex) 98.4 103.5 98.4
the "Easy-to-Sew" category. Polyester % 0.0 30 30
Nature of Medium Medium Tenacity
Evaluation of Yarns and Fabrics: Yarn evenness Polyester ----------- Tenacity - Multi-Fil
Material Multi-Fil
properties were measured using the Uster-3 evenness tester. Position of
The Uster test permitted computation of yarn CV% values Polyester in the ----------- Core Core
at different cut lengths. The single yarn strength test was Yarn
carried out using the Statimat M tester. In addition to the Production
Rate (mets/min)210 35 280
individual and average stress-strain curves, the strength test Maximum
provided information on mean strength and elongation, Possible 250 40 400
CV% of strength and elongation, initial tensile modulus, Production
Count (tex) 95.2 95.2 64.2
nature of yarn failure, work of rupture, etc. Polyester % 30 67 30
Nature of Medium Tenacity Recycled Medium Tenacity
Modulus was measured as the load to elongation ratio Polyester Staple Fiber Staple Fiber Staple Fiber
Material
obtained between 0 and 0.7% elongation. All the six yarns Position of
showed a linear deformation in this range. The parameters Polyester in the Core Randomly Core
used to judge the nature of yarn failure are: 1) post-break Yarn Distributed
Production
elongation (total elongation registered to the post break Rate (mets/min)270 180 280
point which corresponded to 5% of breaking load), 2) load Maximum
at the first fiber/filament break, and 3) elongation at the Possible 380-400 230 400
Production
first fiber/filament break. Whenever the instrument
registered at least 1% drop in strength at any point in the Table 2.. Yarn properties
stress strain curve between zero load and ultimate breaking Yarn 1 Yarn 2 Yarn 3
Rotor Ring Spun Friction
load, the yarn rupture was assumed to be non-simultaneous. Spun cotton Filament- core Spun Filament-
Also, the point at which a 1% drop in strength occurred Property yarn yarn core yarn
was considered to be the point of first fiber/filament break. Avg. [Link]( %) 8.11 10.75 14.75
Whenever the elongation corresponding to the first CV% 6.04 3.4 7.3
Post-Break Elong.,% 8.17 10.84 14.78
fiber/filament break failed to differ by more than 1% from
the ultimate breaking load and breaking elongation, it was Avg. B. Load (cN) & 1050 2276 1863
inferred that the yarn rupture is simultaneous. Similarly if CV% 5.6 4.2 3.5
Tenacity(cN/tex) 10.67 21.97 18.93
the post break elongation was not at least 1% greater than Work of Rupture 2308 5689 7453
the ultimate breaking elongation, it was inferred that the ([Link])& CV% 11.5(CV) 2.5 10.7
yarn rupture is simultaneous. Breaking Time (sec) 12.16 14.07 22.06
%Elon. at Ist Fiber/Fil 8.11 10.74 14.07
Break and CV% 6.0 (CV) 3.5 7.6
Fabric tensile and tear strength tests were carried out on the Load at Ist Fiber/Fil 1049 2274 1860
unwashed as well as home washed fabrics (i.e., on fabrics Break (cN) & CV% 5.7(CV) 4.2 3.5
Modulus (cN) & CV% 240.6 274.3 352.0
subjected to the standard three home wash test). The home 17.3 8.3 3.8
wash procedure also permitted measurement of the Yarn Count (tex) 98.4 103.5 98.4
shrinkage potential of the finished (pre-shrunk) denim Uster CV% 13.84 13.71 17.63
Imperfections/km
fabrics. The Kawabata Evaluation System (KES-F) was Thin Places 334.5 134 676
used to measure the hand related low-stress mechanical Thick places 15 20.5 117
properties of the six fabrics that were stone washed and Neps 12 8.0 29.5
tumble dried in the presence of high density polyethylene
softener.

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Table 2 (continued) Table 4 (continued)
Yarn 4 Shear Bending
Tandem Spun Yarn 5 Yarn 6 [Link] Type of Filling Yarn G 2HG 2HG5 B 2HB
Staple-core Rotor Spun Friction Spun 1 100% Cotton - Rotor 2.54 3.84 7.02 314 30.79
Property yarn P/C Blend yarn Staple-core yarn 2 Filament-core - Ring 2.54 4.16 7.38 402 33.34
Avg. [Link]( %) 12.14 16.66 5.87 3 Filament-core - Friction 2.29 3.63 7.14 484 40.54
CV% 5.5 13.7 24.8 4 Staple-core - Tandem 1.45 2.62 4.47 167 16.67
Post-Break Elong.,% 12.15 16.80 5.90 5 P/C Blend - Rotor 2.22 3.79 6.69 295 26.77
6 Staple-core - Friction 2.27 3.67 6.83 385 33.44
Avg. B. Load (cN) & 1432 834.5 773.4 LT: Linearity of the stress-strain curve ( lower the value, less stiff is the
CV% 5.6 8.3 8.0 fabric)
Tenacity(cN/tex) 15.03 8.76 12.05 WT: Energy in extending fabric to a load of 5N per cm width - J/m2
Work of Rupture 4255 4851 1287 RT%: Percentage tensile resilience ( higher the value, more springy is the
([Link])& CV% 10.3 20.5 22.2 fabric)
Breaking Time (sec) 18.12 24.91 8.7 EMT%: Percentage elongation at a load of 5N per cm width
%Elon. at Ist Fiber/Fil 12.09 16.66 5.87
Break and CV% 5.5 13.7 24.9 G: Shear rigidity ( higher the value, stiffer is the fabric - N/m)
Load at Ist Fiber/Fil 1429 834 773 2HG: Shear hysteresis at 8.7 mrad ( higher the value, less is the recovery from
Break (cN) & CV% 5.6 8.3 8.0 shear - N/m)
Modulus (cN) & 193.3 200.6 395.8 2HG5: Shear hysteresis at 87 mrad (higher the value, less is the recovery -
CV% 10.5 7.2 22.6 N/m)
Yarn Count (tex) 95.2 95.2 64.2
Uster CV% 11.45 14.45 13.89 B: Bending rigidity ( higher the value, less flexible is the fabric - uNm)
Imperfections/km 2HB: Bending hysteresis (higher the value, less recoverable is the fabric -
Thin Places 104.5 418 470 mN)
Thick places 2.0 15 14
Neps 0.5 8.5 24.5 Table 5. Compression properties of stone-washed denim fabrics
Rating
Table 3. Fabric physical properties [Link] Type of Filling LC WC RC% EMC% TO Hand
Fabric 1 Fabric 2 Fabric 3 1 100% cotton - Rotor 0.54 0.48 39.09 25.39 1.43 5.8
Rotor Ring Spun Friction 2 Filament-core - Ring 0.54 0.46 41.00 23.64 1.45 6.6
Spun 100% Filament- core Spun Filament- 3 Filament-core - Friction 0.50 0.53 39.97 28.09 1.51 6.3
Fabric Property cotton Fil Fil core Fil 4 Staple-core - Tandem 0.40 0.45 31.56 31.39 1.47 7.4
Width (m) 1.6 1.59 1.64 5 P/C Blend - Rotor 0.46 0.48 37.89 27.99 1.49 5.2
Weight-UW(kg/m2) 0.5150 0.5425 0.4682 6 Staple-core - Friction 0.42 0.38 30.12 25.75 1.41 6.5
Weight- 3HL 0.4859 0.4988 0.4696 LC: Linearity of the load versus thickness curve (lower value implies better
Picks/cm - UW 17.72 17.91 16.14 softness)
Picks/cm - 3HL 17.81 17.91 17.72 WC: Energy in compressing to a pressure of 5 kPa - J/m2
Warp tear - UW (kg) 4.432 4.967 4.132 RC%: Compressive resilience ( %)
Warp tear - 3HL 4.631 4.935 4.30 EMC%: % Thickness compression at 5 kPa press (higher values imply better
Weft tear - UW (kg) 3.43 11.70 9.40 softness)
Weft tear - 3HL 4.16 13.00 11.83 TO: Fabric thickness at a pressure of 5 Pa - mm
Warp tens-UW(kg) 92.99 96.62 93.44
Warp tensile - 3HL 88.00 84.37 83.01
Weft tens -UW(kg) 68.94 114.76 103.43
Yarn Evenness and Imperfections: Previous work [2,3]
Weft tensile - 3HL 64.86 118.84 104.3 has shown that the Uster evenness of cotton covered yarns
% Elongation 6.00 6.20 2.60 containing a staple fiber core is comparable to that of the
% Shrinkage-3HL W 0.15 0.20 1.40
F 3.40 1.20 1.00
corresponding random blend yarns. Literature however fails
to give a similar comparison of evenness values for two
Width (m) 1.61 1.59 1.59 types of covered yarns containing staple fibers and
Weight-UW(kg/m2) 0.5008 0.5110 0.4516
Weight- 3HL 0.4710 0.4754 0.4286
continuous filaments in the yarn core. From the CV%
Picks/cm - UW 17.72 17.72 17.91 values listed in Table 2, it can be seen that the two yarns
Picks/cm - 3HL 17.72 17.72 17.91 containing staple polyester in the core are more even
Warp tear - UW (kg) 4.40 4.736 4.935 compared to the filament-cored yarns. This result may
Warp tear - 3HL 4.63 4.53 5.067
Weft tear - UW (kg) 5.87 3.96 2.37 come as a surprise at the first look because one would
Weft tear - 3HL 7.50 4.50 3.03 expect a more uniform composite yarn when the core is
Warp tens-UW(kg) 96.16 93.44 88.45 composed of continuous filaments as opposed to staple
Warp tensile - 3HL 85.46 80.74 83.01
Weft tens -UW(kg) 97.52 76.20 48.99 fibers. However, the inferior uniformity results shown by
Weft tensile - 3HL 91.63 73.48 43.55 the filament-cored yarns can be explained on the basis of
% Elongation 6.00 6.80 6.20 the differences in the core yarn tensions and also on the
% Shrinkage-3HL W 0.35 0.15 0.20
F 1.20 1.20 2.35 basis of the of the relative positioning of the staple fibers
and filaments within the yarn.
Table 4. Tensile, shear and bending properties of stone-washed denim fabrics
Tensile
[Link] Type of Filling Yarn LT WT RT% EMT%
Compared to a staple fiber core, a multi-filament-core can
1 100% Cotton - Rotor 0.67 26.96 42.60 11.38 be expected to sustain a greater amount of tension and
2 Filament-core - Ring 0.63 25.35 49.57 11.63 tension variation during spinning and this is true for the
3 Filament-core - Friction 0.65 25.35 49.45 10.00
4 Staple-core - Tandem 0.65 25.99 41.46 12.69
core yarns corresponding to both ring and friction spinning
5 P/C Blend - Rotor 0.67 25.25 48.31 10.19 technologies. Thus while staple polyester fibers can be
6 Staple-core - Friction 0.67 27.95 47.44 10.13 expected to exist as a relatively unmixed bundle in the yarn

1493
core, the bundle of core filaments may not represent a Comparing the tensile behavior of the two filament-core
similar unadulterated integrity. In other words, cotton yarns (filament-core friction and filament-core ring yarns),
fibers can be expected to get trapped between the filaments it can be seen that the friction yarn has a higher breaking
because of the variation of filament tension. A random elongation and higher work of rupture compared to the ring
trapping of short fibers can be expected to result in a yarn. The difference in work of rupture appears to arise not
random radial displacement of some of the filaments in the only from the difference in breaking elongations but also
core filament yarn. This random radial displacement of due to the difference in the shape of the stress-strain curves.
filaments brought about by the trapped short fibers can be The higher breaking elongation of the friction yarn may be
expected to cause additional short-term variation in the partly due to the higher yarn twist, and partly due to the
yarn. In fact, careful observation of a partially peeled radial displacement of filaments referred to in the section
filament-core friction yarn under a stereo microscope on yarn evenness properties. Short fibers trapped between
revealed small bunches of short fibers lying trapped the filaments may not only cause higher breaking
between the filaments. It appears that the trapped fibers are elongation but also greater variation in elongation. From
mainly responsible for the high short-term variation shown Table 2, it can be seen that the elongation of the friction
by the filament-core friction yarn. yarn is in fact more variable than that of the ring yarn
while the variation in breaking loads appears to be more or
Of the two staple-core yarns, tandem spun yarn gave the less similar.
minimum CV% over the entire range of cut lengths. This
yarn also gave minimum values for imperfection count. Fabric Strength: From Table 3 which gives the strength
The superior uniformity of the tandem spun yarn is perhaps values for unwashed (UW) and washed (3HL) fabrics, it
linked to the principle of yarn formation itself. Tandem can be seen that the two fabrics containing the filament-
spinning uses both air-jet and friction spinning processes core yarns in the filling direction gave the highest weft-
in tandem [5]. The air-jet spinning unit first forms an way tensile and tear strengths. The weft way tensile
integrated 100% polyester yarn, using polyester fibers. The strength of the tandem spun yarn fabric was very close to
friction spinning process then wraps cotton fibers around that of the two fabrics that used the filament-core weft
the core polyester yarn. Since the cotton fibers are wrapped yarns while the weft way tear strength of the tandem spun
on the surface of an already twisted polyester yarn, we have yarn fabric fell between that of the fabrics representing the
in effect, a doubling action in the spinning process, which filament-core yarns and other all staple yarns. The fabric
makes the composite yarn more uniform compared to either made from tandem spun yarn, therefore, gave the highest
of the yarn components. The mass regulation arising as a tensile and tear strength values among the four fabrics that
result of the doubling of strands appears to be responsible used the all staple filling yarns.
for the better uniformity of the tandem spun yarn.
The warp way tensile strength of all six fabrics shows a
Yarn Tensile Properties: The yarn tensile properties drop after washing but the drop in weft way strength is
(Table 2 ) suggest that the filament-cored yarns are confined to the four fabrics that represent the all staple
stronger than the all staple yarns. It can also be seen that filling yarns. In other words, the two fabrics made from the
the work of rupture of the tandem spun yarn is greater than filament-core filling yarns show an increase in weft way
that of 100% cotton , and friction spun staple-core yarns. tensile strength after washing, suggesting that the integrity
The breaking elongation of this yarn is found to be higher of the filament-core yarns may be improving after washing.
than that of 100% cotton, ring spun filament-core, and In general, the washed fabrics show an increase in tear
friction spun staple-core yarns. The tandem spun yarn is strength in both directions but the increase in the weft
also the strongest yarn among the four all staple yarns. The direction is greater than the increase in the warp direction.
cotton/polyester yarn gave the highest breaking elongation The increased slackness of the fabric and the greater thread
while the friction spun staple-core yarn gave the lowest mobility achieved after washing appear to be responsible
breaking elongation. The post- break elongation values as for the higher tear strength shown by the washed fabrics.
well as the load and elongation values corresponding to the Among the six fabrics, the fabric made from the poly/cotton
first fiber/filament break suggest that all the six yarns filling yarn showed the least change in tear strength. This
exhibit more or less simultaneous rupture under axial appears to be a reflection of the high polyester composition
loading. The initial tensile modulus of both the friction of the filling yarn (67% as opposed to 30%).
yarns is rather high which perhaps is a reflection of the
high levels of twist present in these yarns. Tandem spun Hand Related Low-Stress Mechanical Properties:
yarn gave the lowest value for tensile modulus. Lower Tables 4 and 5 suggest that the fabric made from the
initial modulus values of yarns and fabrics is generally tandem spun yarn is different from the rest of the fabrics in
desirable from the point of view of mechanical comfort. A terms of bending, shear, and compression properties. This
fabric that is easy to stretch under low load conditions can fabric thus showed the lowest values for bending and shear
be expected to impose less load on the body, thus providing rigidities (B and G), bending hysteresis (2HB), shear
for better mechanical comfort. hysteresis (2HG and 2HG5), compression linearity(LC),
and tensile resilience (RT%.). The same fabric also showed

1494
the highest values for tensile elongation(EMT%) and Literature Cited
percentage thickness compression (EMC%). These
differences clearly suggest that the stone washed fabric 1. Marsh, J. T., in An Introduction to Textile Finishing,
made from the tandem spun yarn gives not only maximum Chapter IX: Anti-Shrink Cotton, Chapman & Hall Ltd.,
compressive softness but also minimum resistance to London, 240-258 (1950).
bending and shear deformations. This fabric therefore
showed the best combination of low-stress mechanical 2. Sawhney, A. P. S., Robert, K.Q., Ruppenicker, G.F.,
properties from the point of view of hand quality and and Kimmel, L. B., Improved Method of Producing a
mechanical comfort performance. Cotton Covered/Polyester Staple-Core Yarn on a Ring
Spinning Frame, Text. Res. J.62, 21-25(1992).
Subjective Rating of Fabrics for Hand Quality: A group
of twenty-two undergraduate textile majors were asked to 3. Sawhney, A. P. S., Ruppenicker, G.F., Kimmel, L. B.,
assign hand values to the stone washed fabrics in the range Salaun, H. L., and Robert, K.Q., New Technique to
of 0-10, 0 representing extremely poor hand quality which Produce a Cotton/Polyester Blend Yarn with Improved
will make the fabric unsuitable for use in denim garments, Strength, Text. Res. J.58, 601-604(1988).
and 10 representing the best hand quality. The average
ratings assigned by the group are listed in Table 5. It can be 4. Radhakrishnaiah, P., Sukasem Tejatanalert, and
seen that in terms of subjective hand preference also, the Sawhney, A.P.S., Handle and Comfort Properties of Woven
tandem yarn fabric came on the top. Fabrics Made From Random Blend and Cotton covered
Cotton/Polyester Yarns, Text. Res.J.63, 573-579(1993).
Conclusions
5. Sawhney, A. P. S., Kimmel, L. B., Ruppenicker, G.F.,
We looked at some new ways of producing engineered and Thibodeaux., D. P., A Unique Polyester Staple-
yarns for denim fabrics. Our work focused on three aspects: Core/Cotton-wrap Yarn Made on a Tandem Spinning
i) design and production of cotton covered cotton/polyester System, Text. Res. J.63, 764-768(1993).
yarns on modern spinning systems, ii) incorporating these
yarns as filling yarns in a denim fabric, and iii) evaluation
of the relevant fabric properties in washed and unwashed
states. Results showed that cotton covered yarns offer
significant advantages in terms of fabric strength and
durability, tactile quality, dimensional stability, surface
appearance and rate of production. Subjective and objective
evaluation of hand qualities revealed that the tactile quality
of the fabric made from the tandem spun filling yarn is
superior to that of fabrics made from the conventional
100% cotton and polyester/cotton filling yarns.

Acknowledgments

This work would not have been possible without the

support provided by the Georgia Consortium on
Competitiveness for the Apparel, Carpet, and Textile
Industries (CCACTI). The authors would like to express
their sincere thanks to the members of the executive
committee of the above organization for their support and
encouragement. The authors would also like to express
their gratitude to the officials of the USDA, New Orleans
for their fruitful cooperation and to the Georgia based
denim manufacturers, Swift Textiles, Inc., and Lindale
Manufacturing, Inc., for their active role in the production
and evaluation of the experimental fabrics.

1495