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Module 1 - Introduction to Port and Harbours

Dr. Srineash V K
Dept. of Civil Engineering, IIT BOMBAY.
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Tides - Classification
If the Earth were a perfect sphere without large continents, all areas on the planet would experience two
equally proportioned high and low tides every lunar day.

• Large continents block the westward passage of the tidal bulges as the earth rotates.
• Unable to move freely around the globe, these tides establish complex patterns within each ocean basin
that often differ greatly from tidal patterns of adjacent ocean basins or other regions of the same ocean
basin.

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Tides

Largest tidal ranges are encountered occur close to the shore!

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Tides - Classification
Diurnal - One high and one low tide each day
Semidiurnal - two highs and the two low tides of same height each day
Mixed - two high and low tides of varying range/height

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Tides - Classification

Diurnal Semidiurnal

Mixed

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Tides - Classification

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Tides - Classification
At the new and full moon, the sun and moon are in (three celestial bodies in a straight line) => Spring tide
At the first and third quarter, the Sun and Moon are at right angles, their tidal forces counteract each other
=> Neap tide

 Spring tides have higher high tides and lower low tides
 Neap tides have lower high tides and higher low tides.
 the tidal range (difference in water level between high and low tide) is much larger in a spring tide
than in a low tide.

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Perigee and Apogee

Perigee: least distance between the moon and the earth

Apogee: greatest distance between the moon and the earth

About three or four times a year the new or full moon coincides with the perigee of the moon, resulting in a king
tide or perigean spring tide
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Design Water Levels

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Design Water Levels

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Design Water Levels

HHWL
MHWS
MHW

Tidal
Range MSL

MLW
MLWS
LLWL

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What is a Barge?
• A type of vessel which is primarily used for transporting cargo is termed as a ‘Barge’. Barges are not something
like independent vessels or boats but are floating vessels generally towed or tugged along with other vessels.

• A barge is a shallow-draft flat-bottomed vessel

Types of Barges:

Barrack Barges
Dry Bulk Cargo Barges
Liquid Cargo Barges
Car-float Barges
Split hopper Barges

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Tugboat

A tug or more commonly a tugboat is a secondary boat which helps in mooring or berthing operation of a ship
by either towing or pushing a vessel towards the port.

•These boats can also have fire fighting accessories so as

to provide fire fighting assistance in port or barges.

•These are the most important marine element, as they

act as saviour to the boat in hard times such as in
narrow canals and bad weather, but on contrary, the
most neglected one in the maritime industry.

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Water wave mechanics

(source: [Link]

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Classification of Ocean waves with respect to Wave Period/frequency

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Classification of Ocean waves

Shape Relative Water Depth Origin

Capillary waves
Progressive Standing Deep water Intermediate Shallow
Waves Waves waves water waves
water waves Gravity waves
(Clapotis)
(d/L>0.5) (0.5>d/L>0.05) (d/L<0.05)
Long period
waves

Tidal waves
Oscillatory Solitary
Waves Waves
Trans-tidal
waves

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Wave Motion

(Source: [Link] (Source: [Link]

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Linear/Airy’s Wave Theory

• Linear wave theory, popularly known as Airy’s wave theory (Airy, 1845) is considered to be the simplest
and often most useful theory.
• The equations derived based on this theory will be useful to understand the kinematic and dynamic
properties of surface gravity waves. This also includes analytical expressions for the computing
particle velocities, particle paths, particle accelerations and pressures.
• However, there are various assumptions based on which this theory is derived.

•Wave height (H)- the vertical distance between the wave crest,
Terminology and the trough
•Wave period (T)- time taken for a wave to travel one
wavelength.
•Wavelength (L)- distance between 2 successive crests.

•Wave Elevation (𝜼)- free surface displacement.

•Wave depth (d)- depth below the Still Water Level (SWL)
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Small-Amplitude Wave Theory

• The small-amplitude theory as the name suggests is derived by considering a wave with small amplitude
(η<<L).
• Therefore, the theory for a two-dimensional, freely propagating, periodic gravity waves is developed by
linearizing the equations involving the boundary conditions.

• Further, to determine an exact equation for the problem of free surface gravity waves, potential theory is
assumed ignoring viscosity effects.

Unknowns:
• Velocity Field: V (x, y, z, t) = ∇𝜙(x, y, z, t)
• Free surface elevation: η(x, y, t)
• Pressure field: p (x ,y, z, t)

(Dean and Dalrymple 1991)

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Linear Wave Theory - Assumptions

The linear wave theory is developed with following

assumptions:

1. The bottom is stationary, impermeable, and horizontal.

2. The pressure along the air–sea interface is constant.
3. The waves have regular profiles.
4. Fluid is considered to be irrotational, inviscid and
z η(x,t)
incompressible (ideal). Thus, the velocity potential must
x
satisfy the Laplace equation for two-dimensional
5. The flow is two-dimensional (vertical x-z plane).
6. The wave propagation is unidirectional. d ∇ 𝜙=0
7. The wave height is small compared to the wavelength
and water depth

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Linear Wave Theory

Small amplitude wave is developed using velocity

z
potential approach where, 𝜙(x,z,t). η(x,t)
x
In case of irrotational flow, the velocity field can be
expressed as a gradient of a scalar field,
𝑢=∇𝜙 1
d ∇ 𝜙=0

In terms of Cartesian coordinate system xyz, the velocity

components of a potential flow can be determined as

𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜙
𝑢= ,𝑣 = ,𝑤 =
𝜕𝑥 𝜕𝑦 𝜕𝑧 From 1 and 2, we can derive

Continuity equation for incompressible fluid is given as ∇ 𝜙=0 LAPLACE equation

∇ · 𝑢=0 2

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Boundary Conditions
𝑛𝑒𝑔𝑙𝑒𝑡𝑒𝑑
Particle on the free surface remains on the free surface 𝑑𝜂 𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜂 𝜕𝜂
𝑤= = +𝑢
Kinematic Free Surface Boundary Condition (KFSBC) 𝑑𝑡 𝜕𝑧 𝜕𝑡 𝜕𝑥
z Dynamic Free Surface Boundary Condition
η(x,t) Free Surface
Boundary Condition = (DFSBC) – Applying Bernoulli's equation
x Kinematic + Dynamic BC 𝑔𝑎𝑢𝑔𝑒 𝑝𝑟𝑒𝑠𝑠𝑢𝑟𝑒, 𝑝 = 0 at 𝑧 = 𝜂 (Free Surface)
0
𝜕𝜙 𝑝 1
+ + 𝑔𝜂 + ∇ 𝜙 = 0
𝜕𝑡 𝜌 2

PLBC 0
Periodic Lateral
Boundary 𝜕𝜙 𝑝
d ∇ 𝜙=0 + + 𝑔𝜂 = 0
Condition (PLBC) 𝜕𝑡 𝜌

PLBC applicable in time and space 0 < 𝑥 < 𝐿; −𝑑 < 𝑧 < 𝜂

𝜙 𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡 = 𝜙 𝑥 + 𝐿, 𝑧, 𝑡
𝜕𝜙
𝜙(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = 𝜙(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡 + 𝑇) + 𝑔𝜂 = 0
𝜕𝑡

The periodicity condition

reflects that the wave is a Bottom 1 𝜕𝜙
𝜕𝜙
Boundary =0 𝜂=−
periodic, progressive wave of Condition 𝜕𝑧 𝑔 𝜕𝑡
[at z=-d]
constant form

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Summary of Mathematical Problem

The governing Laplace equation and the boundary conditions can be summarized as:

𝜕 𝜙 𝜕 𝜙
Laplace equation ∇ 𝜙 = 0 + =0
𝜕𝑥 𝜕𝑧

𝜕𝜙
Bottom Boundary Condition =0
𝜕𝑧

Kinematic Free Surface Boundary Condition 𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜂

=
(KFSBC) 𝜕𝑧 𝜕𝑡 Combined Free Surface
Boundary Condition

Dynamic Free Surface Boundary Condition 1 𝜕𝜙

𝜂=−
(DFSBC) 𝑔 𝜕𝑡

Periodic Lateral 𝜙 𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡 = 𝜙 𝑥 + 𝐿, 𝑧, 𝑡
Boundary Condition (PLBC) 𝜙(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = 𝜙(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡 + 𝑇)

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Linear Wave Theory

The Laplace equation is separable with respect to rectangular coordinate system. We shall therefore seek
solution of the form
𝜙(𝑥, 𝑦, 𝑧, 𝑡) = 𝑋(𝑥). 𝑍(𝑧). 𝑇(𝑡)

Using the governing equations and applying the boundary conditions, the velocity potential 𝜙 (x,z,t) can
be derived as
𝑎𝑔 cosh 𝑘 (𝑑 + 𝑧)
𝜙= ⋅ ⋅ sin( 𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
𝜔 cosh 𝑘 𝑑

From Dynamic Free Surface Boundary condition, we obtain:

Wave number, k =
1 𝜕𝜙
𝜂=− 𝜂 = 𝑎 cos ( 𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
𝑔 𝜕𝑡 Wave angular frequency, ω =

Wave amplitude 𝑎 =

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Dispersion Relationship

Based on Kinematic Free Surface Boundary condition,

𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜂
= ( ⋅ ⋅ sin( 𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)) = (𝑎 cos ( 𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡))
𝜕𝑧 𝜕𝑡

Further on substituting the velocity potential of wave in the above expression we end up in getting an
important relationship termed as “dispersion relationship”

ω = 𝑔𝑘 tanh 𝑘𝑑 3

The dispersion relationship combines or relates wavelength, wave period and water depth. Further, the
above expression can be written as

ω 𝑔 ω 𝑔 𝑔 Wave number, 𝑘 =
= tanh 𝑘𝑑 = tanh 𝑘𝑑 𝑐 = tanh 𝑘𝑑
𝑘 𝑘 𝑘 𝑘 𝑘
Wave frequency, ω =
𝑔𝐿
𝐶= ⋅ tanh 𝑘𝑑 Celerity, C=
2𝜋

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Dispersion Relationship

A similar algebraic manipulation of Eq. 3 will yield a relationship for the wavelength

2𝜋 2𝜋 2𝜋 𝑔𝑇
ω = 𝑔𝑘 tanh 𝑘𝑑 =𝑔 tanh 𝑘𝑑 𝐿= tanh 𝑘𝑑 𝐿 = 𝐿 tanh 𝑘𝑑 𝐿 =
𝑇 𝑇 𝐿 2𝜋
“Dispersion relationship”
𝐿 = 1.56𝑇

Classification d/L 𝐭𝐚𝐧𝐡 𝒌𝒅 L c

Deep waters >0.5 1 𝐿
𝑔𝐿
2𝜋 tanh 𝑘𝑑

Intermediate 0.5>0.05 tanh 𝑘𝑑 𝐿 tanh 𝑘𝑑

𝑔𝐿
waters ⋅ tanh 𝑘𝑑
2𝜋 𝑘𝑑

Shallow waters <0.05 𝑘𝑑 𝐿 . 𝑘𝑑 𝑔𝑑 𝑑/𝐿

0.05 0.5

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Hydraulic Jump

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Water particle kinematics

To better understand the characteristics of the wave motion it is essential know to the water particle
kinematics and the pressure field within the waves. This has got direct implications to the calculation of
forces on bodies

Using the governing equations and applying the boundary conditions, the velocity potential 𝜙 (x,z,t) has
been derived as 𝜃 – Phase angle
𝑎𝑔 cosh 𝑘 (𝑑 + 𝑧)
𝜙= ⋅ ⋅ sin( 𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
𝜔 cosh 𝑘 𝑑
We know that the horizontal water particle velocity, u can be expressed as

𝜕𝜙 𝑎𝑔 cosh 𝑘 (𝑑 + 𝑧)
𝑢= = ⋅𝑘⋅ ⋅ cos( 𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
𝜕𝑥 𝜔 cosh 𝑘 𝑑

Similarly, w can be expressed as

𝜕𝜙 𝑎𝑔 sinh 𝑘 (𝑑 + 𝑧)
𝑤= = ⋅𝑘⋅ ⋅ sin( 𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
𝜕𝑧 𝜔 cosh 𝑘 𝑑

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Water particle kinematics

Further, the horizontal water particle acceleration, 𝑢̇ can be expressed as

𝜕𝑢 𝑎𝑔 cosh 𝑘 (𝑑 + 𝑧)
𝑢̇ = = ⋅𝑘⋅𝜔⋅ ⋅ sin( 𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
𝜕𝑡 𝜔 cosh 𝑘 𝑑

Similarly, 𝑤̇ can be expressed as

𝜕𝑤 𝑎𝑔 sinh 𝑘 (𝑑 + 𝑧)
𝑤̇ = =− ⋅𝑘⋅𝜔⋅ ⋅ cos( 𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
𝜕𝑡 𝜔 cosh 𝑘 𝑑

𝜕𝑢 cosh 𝑘 (𝑑 + 𝑧)
𝑢̇ = = 𝑎𝑔 ⋅ 𝑘 ⋅ ⋅ sin( 𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
𝜕𝑡 cosh 𝑘 𝑑

𝜕𝑤 sinh 𝑘 (𝑑 + 𝑧)
𝑤̇ = = −𝑎𝑔 ⋅ 𝑘 ⋅ ⋅ cos( 𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
𝜕𝑡 cosh 𝑘 𝑑

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Water particle kinematics

𝜋 3𝜋
𝜃= 𝜃=
2 2

𝜂 𝜂 = 𝑎 cos ( 𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
𝜂 and 𝑢 𝜃=0
𝜃=𝜋 𝜃 = 2𝜋
are in phase
𝑢𝑚𝑎𝑥 𝑎𝑔 cosh 𝑘 (𝑑 + 𝑧)
𝜙 𝜙= ⋅ ⋅ sin( 𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
𝜔 cosh 𝑘 𝑑

𝜕𝜙 𝑎𝑔 cosh 𝑘 (𝑑 + 𝑧)
𝑢 𝑢= = ⋅𝑘⋅ ⋅ cos( 𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
𝑢 and 𝑤 are out 𝜕𝑥 𝜔 cosh 𝑘 𝑑
of phase
𝜕𝜙 𝑎𝑔 sinh 𝑘 (𝑑 + 𝑧)
𝑤 𝑤= = ⋅𝑘⋅ ⋅ sin( 𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
𝜕𝑧 𝜔 cosh 𝑘 𝑑

𝜕𝑢 cosh 𝑘 (𝑑 + 𝑧)
𝑢̇ 𝑢̇ = = 𝑎𝑔 ⋅ 𝑘 ⋅ ⋅ sin( 𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
𝜕𝑡 cosh 𝑘 𝑑

𝜕𝑤 sinh 𝑘 (𝑑 + 𝑧)
𝑤̇ 𝑤̇ = = −𝑎𝑔 ⋅ 𝑘 ⋅ ⋅ cos( 𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
𝜕𝑡 cosh 𝑘 𝑑

Water particle velocities in a progressive wave

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Wave Table

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Problem

A wave in water 100 m deep has a period of 10 s and a height of 2 m.

(i)Determine the wave celerity, length, and steepness.
(ii) What is the water particle speed at the wave crest?

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Problem

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Problem

(ii) What is the water particle speed at the wave crest?

𝜕𝜙 𝑎𝑔 cosh 𝑘 (𝑑 + 𝑧)
𝑢= = ⋅𝑘⋅ ⋅ cos( 𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
𝜕𝑥 𝜔 cosh 𝑘 𝑑

𝜕𝜙 𝑎𝑔 cosh 𝑘 (𝑑 + 𝑧)
𝑢= = ⋅𝑘⋅ ⋅1
𝜕𝑥 𝜔 cosh 𝑘 𝑑

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Problem

A wave with a period of 10 s propagates to 10m water depth with a wave height of 2 m.
(i)Determine the wave celerity and length.
(ii) What is the water particle speed at the wave crest?

𝜕𝜙 𝐻 × 𝑔
𝑢= = ⋅𝑇
𝜕𝑥 2×𝐿

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Problem

A wave with a period of 10 s propagates to 10m water depth with a wave height of 2 m what will be the water
particle velocity at 5 m below the free surface during wave crest?

𝑎𝑔 cosh 𝑘 (𝑑 + 𝑧) 𝑔 cosh 𝑘 (10 + (−5))

𝑢= ⋅𝑘⋅ ⋅1 𝑢= ⋅𝑇⋅
𝜔 cosh 𝑘 𝑑 𝐿 cosh 𝑘 (10)

𝑔 cosh((0.068) (5))
𝑢= ⋅𝑇⋅
𝐿 1.2402

𝑔 1.0583
𝑢= ⋅𝑇⋅
𝐿 1.2402

𝑢 = 0.9056 𝑚/𝑠

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Thank you for your attention

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