Importance of Fashion Accessories
Importance of Fashion Accessories
Structure
4.0 Objectives
4.1 Introduction
4.2 Footwear
4.3 Hosiery
4.4 Intimate Apparel
4.5 Handbags
4.6 Wallets
4.7 Other Leather Goods
4.8 Gloves
4.9 Millinery
4.10 Jewellery
4.11 Umbrellas
4.12 Other Accessories
4.13 Let Us Sum Up
4.14 Key Words
4.15 Suggested Readings
4.15 Answers to Check Your Progress
4.0 OBJECTIVES
After studying this unit, you will be able to:
• Know the importance of accessories in fashion industry
• Recognize different accessories used in the fashion industry
• Explain the construction processes used to manufacture accessories
• Enumerate the available variety of each accessory category
4.1 INTRODUCTION
In the last unit on understanding silhouettes, you have studied what is
silhouette, how it is classified, what are various figure types and which
silhouette should be selected for each figure type, how shape of a garment
can vary with the use of darts and dart equivalents and how fabrics help
support the foundation of a garment and give a good fit and drape. Keeping
all these components of silhouette in mind and elements and principles of
design (as studied in unit-1 of this block), a designer creates fashion after a
long process which will be dealt in this unit.
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In this unit, we are going to build an understanding of fashion. The unit deals Fashion: An Overview
with what is fashion, who creates fashion, fashion cycle, some terms
associated with fashion, what are the sources of inspiration for creation of
fashion, widely accepted theories of fashion, factors that help promote
fashion, factors that suppress the growth of fashion, fashion forecasting and
finally have a glimpse of the Indian fashion Industry and some famous Indian
fashion designers. Let’s start the unit by defining fashion.
4.2 FOOTWEAR
It is the area of largest volume production amongst accessories. When we
look at ourselves in a full-length mirror, it highlights the importance of shoes
appropriate to our outfit. Footwear completes the look of an outfit and their
requirements vary with occasions, seasons, age, roles, etc.
Footwear technology has evolved over time. During the eighteenth century,
shoemakers began producing shoes for sale, made without waiting for
specific orders and brought to market, before this they were made-to-order
only. Thus, readymade shoes were introduced. These were made only in three
widths and five lengths.
Styles in women’s footwear appear and reappear: boots from the early part of
the century have been constantly reinvented; the pointed bar-strap shoes of
the 1920s made a comeback in 1950s with stiletto heels; and the platform
soles of the late thirties and forties were reintroduced in exaggerated form in
the 1970s. Men’s shoes have altered little over the past one hundred years.
Footwear Construction
Footwear design also needs research and development like apparels.
Footwear designers and manufacturers work with fiber producers on color
projections so that their shoes will coordinate with apparel fashions. The
production is complex, involving sizes for length, width and combinations.
You will be amazed to know that the full range of women’s shoe sizes
include 103 width and length combinations between sizes 5 and 10. They
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Course 2 consist of a number of different parts (as shown n Fig 4.1), all of which must
be joined together with precision to provide comfortable fit. Two to three
hundred operations can go into the production of a finely made fashion shoe
which can be hand-made or mass-produced. The most expensive shoes are of
handmade construction and are referred to “bench-made”.
Heels are made up of many materials including leather, wood, plastic, and
rubber. Heels heights of shoes vary and are referred in terms of eighths of an
inch. Flats measure up to 7/8 inch; low heels are 8/8 to 14/8 inch. Medium
heels are 15/8 to 19/8 inch; high heels are 20/8 inch and up.
Sneakers
Shoes Pumps
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Fashion: An Overview
Flats
Heels
Boots
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Course 2
4.3 HOSIERY
Hosiery, also referred to as leg wear, describes garments worn directly on the
feet and legs. The maker or seller of such products is called a hosier and these
products are also known generically as hose. The term is nowadays used for
all types of knitted fabric. Its thickness and weight is defined in terms of
denier. Lower denier measurements of 5 to 15 describe a hose which may be
sheer in appearance, whereas denier measurements of 40 and above are
dense.
One of the important components of hosiery is stockings which were made
primarily in silk, and also of wool, rayon and cotton. Nylon stockings were
introduced in 1938. Yarns were knitted into pieces of flat fabric, each shaped
so that when it was folded in half and seamed down the back, a stocking in
the form of a leg resulted. Colors were limited and fabric surfaces were plain.
With technological progress, nylon stockings became sheerer and were
produced in various colors, styles like sandal-foot and other styles, patterns
and textures developed that could not be imagined in earlier years. Large
firms that dominate hosiery segment are - Oswal Woollen Mills (OWM),
Neva, Lux innerwear and Rupa.
Hosiery Construction
Hosiery is knitted, fully-fashioned or seamless. Knitted hosiery is produced
on flat knitting machines. Full-fashioned hosiery is shaped as it is knitted,
fulfilling size and length specifications. Seamless hosiery is knitted on a
circular machine at high speed and then dyed. The same procedure, i.e.
circular dyeing machine is used for pantyhose, some of which are knitted as
stockings and then attached to separate panties. Full-fashioned hosiery had
the advantage of a better fit until the introduction of stretch yarns in the 1960.
Stretch yarns also made possible to stretch hosiery, support hose, control
tops, and comfortably fit knee-high stockings. The steps involved in hosiery
production are knitting, dyeing, boarding (a heat setting process), pairing (for
stockings), brand stamping or labeling and packaging. Automation in hosiery
production is constantly increasing, to the point that computerized machines
can turn out hosiery that features graphics, patterns, and textures and employs
many novelty yarns today
4.5 HANDBAGS
The need for handbags was felt in the earlier times when people wanted
something to carry their personal possessions and necessities. The earlier
handbags were pouches made out of skin and leather and were suspended
from a belt around the waist. In the twentieth century as women’s activities
grew, handbags became a necessity and developed into accessories that
would complement and coordinate with the apparel. Today, every woman has
a collection of handbags matching to her wardrobe and in various styles for
different occasions. The materials used include leather, fabric, plastic, velvet,
corduroy, satin, brocade, vinyl, novelty fabrics, polyurethane and suede. They
are produced in a diversity of sizes and shapes. The major shapes available
are (refer to Fig 4.4):
• Clutch-Any bag that does not have a handle and therefore must be
carried in the hand.
• Sling bag- A sling bag is a type of handbag that is worn over one
shoulder with a strap that winds around the chest resting the bag on the
lower back.
• Tote bag- A bag adapted from the paper shopping bag. Sturdy and
rectangular with an open top (does not have a zipper) and two strap
handles. The inside may have zippered compartments.
• Satchel bag-A bag with a wide, flat bottom, zippered top, two handles or
straps, adapted from luggage. It can be in different sizes. Variations
include the "doctor's bag".
• Backpack- A draw-able shoulder bag with double handles. It is derived
from luggage; designed to be carried across the back on either one or
both shoulders.
• Kid’s school bag- A roomy bag with a snapped, fastened or buckled top
flap and one wide shoulder strap.
• Pouch- A gathered or straight bag with a top closure usually a frame. It
may be large, small, clutch, shoulder, short handled, sporty or dressy.
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Course 2 • Duffle bag-A cylindrical bag with short handles carried horizontally. It is
based on the vertical drawstring bag which was used by soldiers to carry
their gear.
• Athletic Bag - A soft roomy bag used to carry sports gear and apparel.
• Drawstring bag - A bag with a drawstring-gathered closure; drawstring
may form straps or it may have a separate strap; usually soft.
• Box bag - A rigid bag shaped like a square or rectangular box with a
variety of handle treatments.
• Convertible bag - A bag with a handle that can be tucked or folded inside
turning it into a clutch.
• Hobo - A soft, large bag that usually has a zippered top and shoulder
strap; it tends to crunch down when carried.
• Minaudiere - A small evening bag generally made from precious metals;
often covered with semi-precious or precious gems or covered with
fabric and/ or leather.
• Safari - A soft leather bag with curved shape, a top zipper, two top strap
handles and two outside pockets with flaps and buckles.
Sling bag
Handbag Construction
The earliest material used for making handbags was leather which involved a
lot of hand work in cutting. It was difficult to work due to an irregular shape
and scars present on it. Today, many bags are made of plastic or fabric with a
uniformity in width and quality that simplifies the work. The number and
difficulty of the operations required varies with the styling.
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Handbag construction is very much like apparel design. The elements of Fashion: An Overview
colour, line, shape, fabrication and detail as well as the principles of emphasis
and proportion must be considered. To test a design, a dummy is made in
flannel from a sample pattern. Ornaments, closures, and/or handles must be
chosen to complete the design successfully. Final sample is made with
supportive interlinings that differ with each type of bag and each fabrication.
When the final line has been chosen, cutting dies are made from the pattern
and used to stamp out leather on a machine. Fabrics may be cut by methods
similar to those used in the apparel industry. Both fabrics and leather may be
stitched by machine, but much of the assembly of linings, ornaments, handles
and closures is done by hand.
4.6 WALLETS
A wallet is a flat pocket-size case used to carry personal items such as cash,
credit cards, identification documents, business cards, etc. Wallets are
generally made of leather or any other suitable fabric.
Types of Wallets
Breast wallet: a wallet in which banknotes are kept in a flat manner and not
folded. They are carried by men in their jacket’s breast pockets as the wallet
is too large for a pant pocket or by ladies in their handbags. They can be used
to hold cheques and other monetary documents.
Bi-fold wallet: it is the typical wallet that is most popularly used in which the
banknotes are folded over once and inserted. Credit cards and identification
cards may be stored horizontally or vertically.
Tri-fold wallet: a wallet with two folds, in which credit cards are generally
stored vertically.
Wallet band: a type of wallet that has a continuous elastic band of fabric or
rubber to hold cards and/or cash. Wallet bands help to reduce the bulk of a
traditional wallet.
Wrist wallet: a type of wallet that can be secured to the wrist, to keep one's
hands free.
Intext activity1. Plan a store visit, specialized in Hand Bags and Wallets and
explore various kind of products as mentioned above
4.8 GLOVES
The use of gloves was first seen in Egypt and Ancient Rome for the purpose
of protection. In the medieval times, kings and church dignitaries wore richly
ornamented gloves symbolic of their status. Today, gloves have become
articles of fashion. A glove can enhance the look of a plain dress if it has
been beautifully ornamented and it can give a casual look at times as well.
Glove fabrications include leather, knit or woven fabrics. Different styles of
gloves are available today like activity and sports gloves- with special
properties such as anti-slip, water proof, etc.; fashion and formal gloves- to
enhance the look of a dress; leather gloves; winter gloves- for protection
against cold; general purpose gloves- gloves for work and industrial use;
white gloves- for parade, service and hospitality; and palm patch- gloves
which do not cover finger and thumb completely.
Glove Construction
Of all accessories, gloves are probably the most labor intensive to
manufacture. They require the most skill of production workers since a glove
must fit the hand when the hand is closed in a fist and yet not be baggy when
the hand is open. They involve many steps in production.
Gloves are made up of numerous small pieces-the hand and the finger piece,
front and back, thumb part, and the fauchettes or pieces that shape the fingers
between front and back. Since so many small components are involved, a
great deal of hand work is involved in cutting. This may be done by hand,
called table cutting, or with the help of a die called clicker cutting.
Inexpensive gloves may consist of a front and back sewn together simply,
which is called “sandwich gloves”.
ii) Tex
iii) Grams
iv) Kilograms
b) ___________hosiery is shaped as it is knitted, fulfilling size and
length specifications:
i) Full-fashioned
ii) Seamless
iii) Knitted
iv) None of these
c) Three categories of products produced by intimate apparel industry
are:
i) Foundation
ii) _________
iii) _________
2) Match the following categories of gloves:
a) Activity and sports gloves for parade, service and hospitality
b) Fashion and formal gloves protect against cold
c) Winter gloves do not cover finger and thumb completely
d) White gloves gloves with special properties such as anti-slip
e) Palm patch enhance the look of a dress
3) List the steps involved in hosiery production.
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4.9 MILINNERY
Millinery is the designing and manufacture of hats. It can also be used to
refer to a type of store that sells these goods. However, millinery is often
confused with hat making which means manufacture of hats and headwear.
Until the middle of the twentieth century, it was unthinkable for a well-
dressed woman to be seen without hats. Every department store or women’s
specialty store devoted a prime space to millinery departments, which
featured both ready-made and custom-made hats. The industry had its share
of well-known designers.
The importance of total look in fashion today may spark renewed interest in
millinery. Designers put appropriate headwear on their models as they
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Course 2 parade. Retailers show millinery with other outer apparel as well. But one
sees few, indeed, on the streets and other public places.
Millinery Construction
The millinery industry has essentially two products: hats and fine millinery.
Hats tend to be more functional and are less complicated to produce. They
include caps that can be knitted on machines or by hand, felt hats stamped out
by steel molds, and fabric hats that may be sewn from goods cut from
patterns over buckram forms. In contrast, fine millinery is made by hand.
Here are a few of the different construction methods for making hats:
Sewn
Usually sewn hats have a soft shape, but stiffening materials like interfacing
can be added for some styles to give the hat more body or a more pronounced
shape. This is one of the easiest hats for beginners to make since few
specialized tools and materials are needed.
Blocked
Stretching fabric over a form is called blocking. Wood hat blocks come in an
infinite variety of brim and crown shapes. To block a hat, the fabric is
moistened either by water or steam and stretched over the block until it’s the
desired shape. Once dry, the hat is pulled from the block, the edges are
trimmed and embellishments are added.
4.10 JEWELLERY
It is interesting to know that the wearing of jewellery is believed to occur
before the wearing of clothes. In modern times, jewellery has become a sign
of worth and status and very important fashion accessory. No fashion
costume is complete without it.
Costume jewellery
Costume jewellery is mass produced to fill the fashion demand of customers
who seek relatively inexpensive jewellery to complete the fashion look of
their outfits. It can be traditional jewellery or fashion jewellery. The materials
used may be plastic, wood, brass, tin, glass, brass, aluminum, copper, lead, or
any other substance that can be manipulated to achieve the desired effect.
Jewellery Construction
There are as many techniques of making jewellery as there are jewellery
types. Artisans use various methods including carving, grinding, drilling,
filling and hammering metal into desired shapes and perhaps welding parts
together. There are also many ways to mass-produce jewellery by using metal
sheet, metal cast in moulds, and wire.
4.11 UMBRELLAS
An umbrella is an accessory used to protect in the rain as well as to shade
from the sun on a sunny day. It is no more just a functional object and has
become an equally fashionable accessory that people like to flaunt. The early
use of an umbrella dates back to more than 4,000 years ago in various parts
of the world. Silk umbrellas became popular in London in the year 1778
when John MacDonald introduced them. There are various parts of an
umbrella which are discussed in the next section.
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Course 2 Parts of an Umbrella
The various component parts of an umbrella are:
1. Frame - the metal form which constitutes the basic structure, usually
steel or fibreglass.
2. Ribs - metal supports that hold the fabric of the umbrella, usually 8 to 16
in number.
3. Canopy - the fabric cover of the umbrella, usually nylon because of its
durability.
4. Shaft or pole - it can be stationery or collapsible.
5. Spreaders - rods that move up and down when the umbrella is opened.
6. Finial - decorative design on the top of the umbrella.
Styles of Umbrellas
Different styles of umbrellas varying in shape, size, function and fabrics are
popular.
a. Stick - a long, narrow umbrella that fits into a case or tube and has a band
with snaps, which make it less cumbersome when, carried.
b. Automatic - it has a release button on the handle and opens up on
pressing the button. It can be on a stick or a collapsible umbrella and has
a shaft that extends to the full height.
c. Bubble - it has a dome-shaped canopy usually made with a vinyl cover.
d. Ballerina - it is more popular in children’s umbrellas and has a bell-
shape with a ruffle at the edge of canopy.
e. Collapsible - it is a type of umbrella that is reduced in size, when not in
use into half of its original size. It can be opened back to the full size by
the press of a button.
f. Golf - it is an oversized umbrella that is used at times when extra
coverage is needed, not necessarily on the golf course. It is also used
quite often for promotional activities.
Other accessories like sunglasses, belts, scarves, umbrellas, etc. are articles of
function as well as fashion.
4.14 KEYWORDS
Denier: is a unit of measurement that is used to determine the fiber thickness
of individual threads or filaments used in the creation of textiles and fabrics.
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Links: Fashion: An Overview
[Link] accessed on
13.02.2022.
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