Greece

# Section 1: Construction: Creating a Garment

-in the Greek world garments are squares and rectangles
​ -standardization, easy to adjust
​ -fabric and garments were generally being made by the women in the family
​ ​ -fabric took a lot of effort to make and they didn't want to ruin that beautiful textile
​ -idea of taking care of the outside indicated the interior/morality
​ ​ -emphasis on physical fitness to where the garment **draping** elevated their
body

[[Map of Greece]]

-Greeks were on the water

​ -had a lot of interaction with others

-linen and wool are the main fibers used

​ -linen
​ ​ -lightweight
​ ​ -breathable
​ ​ -wrinkles easily (pleating)
​ ​ -natural fiber from flax
​ ​ ​ -imported from Egypt
​ -wool
​ ​ -from sheep
​ ​ -in Greek mythology there's always a Shepherd who typically bring bad news

[[Terracotta lekythos]]
-oil lamp
-they are spinning the yarn
​ -the women depicted are using a drop **spindle**: long weighted narrow device that
when set to spinning they are able to spin the fiber into yarn
​ ​ -has to be spun because plant (flax for linen) and wool fibers are staple fibers
-the other ladies on the right image are weaving on a vertical loom
​ -warp yarn goes on the loom first
​ ​ -on the highest amt of tension | in Ancient Greece they used warp weights
​ ​ ​ -weight hangs from the warp loom to create that tension
​ -weft yarn goes across and creates the imagery

**Women's Garments**
[[Peplos ]]

-sometimes referred to as the doric peplos

-made for women
-there are different weights of wool that can be spun
​ -different types of wool can have insulating properties (even cooler)
-narrow in circumference
-the shape for the peplos is the same
​ -status is shown through dyes, weaving, and additional fibulas
-starts with two folds
​ -first one is seen at the top
​ ​ -right at the collar bone
​ ​ -bottom is at the waist level
​ -whole peplos is ankle length
​ ​ -most women are wearing full length garments
​ -second fold is vertical so you're being incased in the fabric
​ ​ -fold to meet in the middle
​ ​ -one side is closed one side is open
-held together by a fibula
​ -for the peplos there are two fibulas on each shoulder
​ -the fibulas used for the peplos are like straight pins
-usually a belt of some sort around the waist to give it some shape
-story related to the peplos 'made' women stop wearing peplos
​ -> in a village they sent all their men to a war to fight
​ -> the women in the story took their fibula and stabbed the messenger in their grief and
anger

-Himation
-equivalent to a shawl
-women would often put over head for modesty

[[Ionic Chiton vs Peplos]]

Ionic Chiton
-doesn't have a closed seam on the sleeves, they are fastened together by a fibula
-fibula was more like a safety pin
-two pieces of fabric
-during this time period was the golden age of Greece
-blousing was sometimes used
[[Doric Chiton]]

-one piece of fabric

-fold at the shoulders
-wide circumference at the hem
-fibula at each shoulder
-at one of the corners of the fabric there is a weight to keep shape/not be bouncy
-belt over the fold

**Men's Garments**
Chiton
-men had options with the length of their chiton
Himation

-can be draped around that body

​ -not held on by an fibula, just draping

[Chlamys]()
-a smaller rectangle that is pinned with one fibula
# Chapter 3 Notes

### Vocab:
chlamys: a rectangular cloak of leather or wool pinned over the right or left shoulder
​ -worn for cool weather
​ -worn by men over a chiton, especially for traveling
​ -could be used as a blanket
doric chiton: a style of a chiton (garment/fabric) | the equivalent to a tunic
​ -worn by: men and women
​ -length: short with a few exceptions (men) | long (women)
​ -narrower than Ionic, without sleeves, fastened with one brooch (fibula) at shoulders
​ -material: wool, linen, silk
​ -time period: 400-100 BCE | 450-300 BCE
fibula: a pin used to hold a garment together
himation: word that applies to a large rectangle of fabric that is wrapped around the body
​ -was in wide use by the late fifth century BCE
​ -various methods of draping
ionic chiton: a style of a chiton (garment/fabric) | the equivalent to a tunic | changes made to be
in the ionic style
​ -worn by: men and women
​ -length: short or long | long to ground
​ -full, longer sleeves, fastened with many small brooches at shoulder
​ -material: lightweight wool or pleated linen
​ -time period: 550-480 BCE | less often from 480-300 BCE
peplos: a patterned garment made out of wool
​ -as part of a religious ceremony to honor Athena (credited as the first woman to work
with wool) a patterned sacred peplos was carried to the temple to be placed under a statue
​ ​ -was woven by two women selected from those who participated in fertility rites
associated with the cult of Athena
​ -doric peplos:
​ ​ -worn by: women
​ ​ -length: to ankles
​ ​ -close to body, fastened with large straight pin at shoulder
​ ​ -material: usually patterned wool
​ ​ -time period: archaic period to c. 550 BCE
warp: lengthwise yarn
warp weighted loom: weights are on the warp
weft: crosswise yarn

ROME

-Roman man's dress is a lot about projecting status

​ -color, detail, layers/amt of fabric, quality, etc
​ -the colors represent status; the harder it is to obtain the dye the higher in status
### Vocab
amictus: garment that was "wrapped around"
​ -could be considered outerwear
​ ​ -ex: toga or himation
clavi: broad purple bands that extend vertically from hem to hem across the shoulders
​ -used to signify senators/people of high importance
​ -the wider the clavi the higher the status
indutus: garments that were "put on"
​ -worn underneath/close to the skin
pallium: a broad rectangle draped around the shoulders, crossed in front, and held in place with
a belt
​ -evolved form of the Greek himation
​ -smaller amount of fabric and draped differently than toga
toga: draped, elliptically shaped mantle that probably evolved from the Etruscan tabenna
​ -used to show status | the male citizen was entitled to wear the toga, slaves, foreigners,
and chaste adult women were prohibited from wearing it
toga praetexta: type of toga with a purple border about 2–3 inches wide
​ worn by: young sons (until age 16) and daughters (until age 12) of the nobility and by
certain adult magistrates and high priests
toga candida: this was the toga pura (plain white undecorated wool) lightened to an exceptional
white
​ -worn by: candidates for office; the word candidate derives from this term
subligar: loincloth
​ -served as an undergarment for middle and upper class men and a working garment for
slaves
​ subligaria (feminine form of subligar): undergarments/loincloth for women
strophium: a band of fabric that supports the breasts
[[tunic]]: indutus, pulled on over the head

Late middle ages

undershirt: a garment that is not tailored and goes under the clothes
​ -linen/woven
braise: type of underpants similar to a subligar
chemise- a womens equivalent to a mans undershirt
​ -layer between the body and clothes
​ ​ -helps with not getting garments dirty
​ ​ -potentially warmth
​ -longer garment because of the modesty of the time
pourpoint: extremely tailored patterned and quilted garment
​ -only worn by men
​ -3 layers
​ -outside layer has patterned silk
​ ​ -surface texture could be created by quilting
​ -originally worn in battle
hose: tall pair of socks
​ -the pourpoints had ties to tie the hose to it on the inside
​ -can show status through material
### Vocab
chaperon
cotehardie
fitchet
gisper
godet: triangle of fabric inserted to create fullness in a skirt
gore: in the pattern for the side seam it is a lot higher at the hem in
gusset: diamond or triangle shape of fabric that is put in to the underarm area
​ -they can be used in a couple areas as well
​ -used so its easier to move/more mobility
hose
liripipe
pourpoint / doublet

tippet
dagging