Doctor Drake’s

Patented Aerial Steam

Carriage

Before proceeding with this document, make sure you have read the beginners guide to card modeling in-
cluded with this model set! All pages have user selectable options for the graphics which you can adjust prior
to printing. Please see the section on ‘DRAGON LAYERS’ in the Beginners Guide for more info.

Miniature shown is from REAPER MINIATURES excellent Chronoscope line ([Link])

Special thanks to Steve “Spacedog Zot” Lortz for his invaluable help researching this model and naming this
sucker!
 Carriage

1: You can use any colored marker brand or acrylic 2: The four ropes used to connect the carriage to the gas
paint to touch up your white fold and cut edges to make bag are simple four-sided structures covered in the Be-
them less visible. We prefer to use Bic Mark It markers ginner’s Guide. Cut, score and fold/glue them as shown
available at Staples and elsewhere. They’re cheap (less and set aside for later.
than $1) and the colors work great. A light brown was
used for all models in this set.

3: Cut, score and test fold the forward carriage piece. 4: Next fold over and glue in half and allow to dry.
5: Cut away the excess white areas. 6: Cut out and score the main carriage body as depicted
above. Before gluing it we recommend you edge it at
this time.

7: Glue the carriage bottom piece to the underside of 8: Next fold over and glue the side walls as shown
the piece you just cut out in the previous step. Make above.
sure the opening for the stand aligns correctly.
9: Cut, score and test fold the forward bulkhead and 10: Glue the two pieces together, making sure all tabs
instrument panel mount. are folded outward and do not get glued together.

11: Glue the instrument panel as shown. 12: Glue the forward curved carriage body section to
the main section as shown. Make sure to get the ends
tightly aligned while the glue dries.
13: IMPORTANT!! Before attempting to glue the 14: Now proceed to glue the opposite end to the re-
curved front piece to the opposite side wall, GENTLY maining sidewall.
wrap it around a curved surface like a glue bottle or
similar object. This will allow the cardstock to bend
without creasing. Work slowly back and forth until you
are satisfied there is enough curvature.

15: Glue the rear wall flaps together and set aside to 16: Glue the forward bulkhead/instrument panel into
dry. place. This will keep your forward floor attached to the
forward carriage wall.
17: Cut and score the rope mounts as shown. 18: Glue the four mounts, two per side, as depicted
above (there are rectangular glue-points on each inner
side wall to aid in alignment.) While they are drying
insert the rope structure to make sure the opening is the
correct size.
 Propellers and Mounts

1: Cut and score the rear gear box. 2: Glue the long main tab first. Finish by gluing the
small side tabs completing the box structure.

3: Glue to the rear of the carriage. 4: Cut and score the upper propeller mounts. These
pieces simply fold in half and are glued as depicted
above.
5: Cut, score and test fold the remaining propeller 6: Glue these pieces together, making sure the tabs fold
mount pieces as shown. outward and do not get glued together.

7: Glue the side and upper mount pieces together. Note 8: Glue the propeller shaft mounts into simple box
the upper piece is intended to extend past the side piece shapes as shown.
as shown.
9: Glue the two parts together (one set for each side) to 10: The rear tip of the mount arm aligns with the back
finish the propeller mount structures. The front end of corner of the carriage and SLIGHTLY (1mm or so) un-
the ‘box’ aligns with the front edge of the upper propel- der the lip of the carriage side wall.
ler mount. The rear end (the one that is white) extends
to the rear as shown above.

11: The propellers simply fold and glue in half. Once 12: The drive chains assemble just like the propellers.
dry, cut away the excess white areas. Glue in half, allow to dry, and cutaway the excess white
areas.
 13: Glue the drive chains and propellers to the rear
of the carriage as shown above. If you only intend on
using the stand, you can mount the propellers at any
angle. If you would like to ‘land’ your carriage on the
ground, the propellers must be glued more horizontal
to allow clearance.

The design concept is the propeller drive would be dis-

engaged prior to landing, and the propellers stopped
in a horizontal position prior to setting down on the
ground.

Boiler and Engine Box

1: Cut and score all boiler pieces. Edge them with a 2: Glue the main boiler body into a tube.
black marker (brown around the brass parts.)
3: Flip the boiler upside down and glue the top piece 4: Here is what the boiler looks like with the top piece
into it. By having the boiler upside down you can insert in place.
a tool through the bottom to apply pressure to the tabs.
Also, by keeping the upper edge against the table, it
allows the top piece to be glued flush along that edge.

5: Glue the tapered ring as shown. 6: Before gluing the tapered ring to the top of the boiler
body, you can edge the top piece of the boiler with a
brown marker to avoid any white showing once the
ring is glued in place.
7: Here is the tapered ring glued in place on top of the 8: Finish by gluing the two access hatches in place as
boiler body. shown.

9: Color the rear side of the exhaust stack with a black 10: Glue into a tube and set aside to dry.
marker.
11: Insert the stack into the ring and glue to the top face 12: Cut and score the engine box.
of the boiler body.

13: Starting at the top of the box and working down 14: Continue gluing, being patient and carefully align-
each side toward the bottom, begin gluing one tab at a ing each tab.
time.
15: Finish by gluing the bottom flap. 16: Glue to the rear center of the carriage, behind where
the boiler will go.

17: Glue the boiler assembly where marked on the floor

of the carriage.
 Air Bag

1: Cut and score the main piece. 2: Fold and glue into a tube.

5: Cut and score the interior support. 6: Glue the main side tab.
7: Finish by gluing the end tabs. 8: Cut and score the interior bag bulkheads.

9: Glue a bulkhead in the approximate middle of the 10: Repeat for the opposite side. Make sure the bulk-
support box. heads are glued so the tabs fold in the same direction.
11: Insert the support structure into the larger tube as 12: Glue the end caps into place.
shown. Use a pencil or paint brush to push the bulk-
heads back and forth via each end opening until they
are roughly centered (this doesn’t need to be too pre-
cise.)

13: Here is the completed center tube with caps glued. 14: The end pieces are constructed of four sections
glued in order. From left to right, the pieces are #1-2-
3-4.
15: Begin gluing two pieces together at the largest side 16: Slowly work your way down through the remain-
tab (the one at the top of this photo. ing side tabs until two sections are joined. Repeat for
each ‘leaf’ of the piece.

17: Once you have glued two pairs of pieces, proceed 18: Cut out the front cap piece.
to join them into one piece.
19: Glue to the interior of the end piece at the front 20: This is what the end piece should look like from
center. the exterior.

21: The end piece attach to the center tube as shown. 22: The completed gas bag.
Slide the end piece over the tube and begin gluing one
or two tabs at a time. You can apply glue to each tab
with a small scrap of paper.
 Stand

1: Glue one side of each structure section to foamcore. 2: Once the foamcore piece is cut out, proceed to glue
Proceed to cut it out. the opposite printed side to the foamcore as shown, be-
ing careful to properly align the edges.

3: Glue the edge strips to the piece as shown. Use an 4: Insert the two vertical sections through each other’s
actual liquid glue for this, not a glue stick. slots to create an ‘X’ cross-section. Insert these into the
base as shown.
 Anchors and Ladders

1: Cut out the anchor model as shown (the ladders as- 2: Fold and glue in half.
semble identical to the anchors.)

3: Cut away the excess white areas.

Do not glue the rope supports to the carriage or air bag. They will stay in place just fine without glue, and your
model can then be easily disassembled as required. The anchor and ladder simply use the folded end to hang off
of the carriage side wall, do not glue these into place.

©2011 Fat Dragon Games. BOILERS & COGS and Doctor Drake’s Patented Aerial Steam Carriage are trade-
marks of Fat Dragon Games. All rights reserved.