BrandingCraft

Side Tie Tank

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 BrandingCraft

Pattern Information
01 FABRICS
The fabric you use for this project will depend on your desired outcome. Stiffer, medium- to
heavy- weight fabrics may be used for a more structured and tailored look. These fabrics may
include denim, twill, or canvas fabrics. Keep in mind that you should use the appropriate
needle and thread for fabric like denim. For a more casual look, you may choose to use
chambray, cotton poplins, shirting fabrics, or washed linen. For any fabric that is on the drapey
side (i.e. lacks structure), I recommend applying a medium weight fusible interfacing to the
fabric and lining the top completely. Avoid all stretch fabrics and slippery

02 FIT
This top is meant to be form fitting but also comfortable, therefore there are many curved
seams to shape the top. There is ease included in the pattern so that it is not skin tight.

03 INSTRUCTIONS
I have included written instructions, illustrations, and pictures in this pattern. I also have video
instructions, which I would highly recommend following: [Link] LLhi1w

Materials
* This is the minimum width of the fabric. You can use wider fabrics if you wish.
** Lining fabrics are usually 46" in width, but if you can find lining that is 55" (140cm) wide you
will only need 0.9 yards (0.8 meters).
*** Interfacing isnt absolutely necessary, but it will help to prevent any stretching/sagging at
the neckline and armholes. If youre doing option B, the interfacing will be applied to the facing.
If you’re doing option A, you can apply the interfacing to the lining pieces. If you want to
interface the top completely, you will need 2.6 yards/2.4 meters of 20" wide interfacing, or you
can try to find interfacing that is as wide and long as the main fabric.
You’ll also need...
Thread to match your main fabric
An invisible zipper that is at least 21"/55 cm long
Invisible zipper foot
Sewing machine
Fabric scissors and/or a rotary cutter and mat
Pins
Fabric pen or chalk
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FABRIC REQUIREMENTS

LENGTH *WIDTH

1.4 yards 46"

MAIN FABRIC
1.3 meters 116.8 cm

1.4 yards 46"

**LINING (OPTION A)
1.3 meters 116.8 cm

0.4 yards 46"

FACING (OPTION B)
0.4 meters 116.8 cm

0.7 yards 20"

***INTERFACING
0.6 meters 50.8 cm

Make sure to wash your fabric beforehand, as it may shrink. I always recommend buying about
10% more fabric than what is required to account for shrinkage.

Size Guide
SIZE XS S M L XL XXL XXXL

in 31 33 35 37 39 41 43
BUST
cm 78.7 83.8 88.9 94 99.1 104.1 109.2

in 24 26 28 30 32 34 36
WAIST
cm 61 66 71.1 76.2 81.3 86.4 91.4

in 34 36 38 40 42 44 46
HIP
cm 86.4 91.4 96.5 101.6 106.7 111.8 116.8

** For this pattern, the most important measurements are the bust and waist. If your bust
measurement size recommendation is different than that for your waist measurement, go with
the larger size. For example, if your bust measurement fits in the size M but your waist fits in the
size L, then you should make the size L and take in the top at the bust if needed.
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BUST

WAIST

HIP

The bust is measured around the largest part of your upper half, the waist is measured around
the smallest part of your torso, and the hips are measured around the largest part of your
lower half.

Youtube Tutorial
Here is a link to the video tutorial: [Link]

Part One: Assembling the pattern

01
Print the pattern single-sided, at 100% scale. It is advised to print in colour to better see the
markings, but black and white works as well.

02
Check the test squares on the they measure 1" by 1". If not, check that you printed the pattern at
the correct scale and try again.

03
Trim the borders of the pages so that you can align the square guides. Follow the formatting to
the right when assembling. Tape the pages together.
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04
Cut out the pattern following the size guides. Don't
worry if the guides are hard to distinguish in some
areas. As long as you cut out the general shape,
you should be fine.
** If you are between sizes, you can cut in between
the lines of the size up and the size down. For
example, If you are in between S and M you can
cut in between those size markings.

05
There are two options for this top: OPTION A = lining the top completely OPTION B = finishing
the top with a facing
Cut your main fabric using the pattern pieces, paying attention to the markings on the pattern.
Note that some pieces need to be cut on fold, or cut twice. Follow the cutting strategy to the
right to minimize fabric waste.
Note that seam allowance is already included in the pattern (3/8" (1 cm) all around, 1/2" (1.27
cm) at the center back).
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06
Mark any notches on your pattern pieces. You may use fabric chalk, a fabric marker, pins, or
scissors to mark them.

07
If using interfacing, use an iron to fuse the interfacing to your pattern pieces.
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08
Cut out your lining/facing pieces according to the cutting strategies below:

OPTION A (LINING FABRIC, 46" WIDE)

OPTION A (LINING FABRIC, 55" WIDE)

OPTION A (LINING FABRIC, 55" WIDE)

OPTION B (FACING FABRIC)

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09
If you are using interfacing, cut the pieces according to the cutting strategy below

** if you’re interfacing the whole top, use the full pattern pieces to cut out the interfacing

Part Two: Sewing the Front

01
Match up the notches of your centre front piece and the front side panels, right sides together.
Pin along the princess seams together.

Start pinning where the notches are, then continue to line up the
edges and pin. This is a curved seam, so take your time!

Repeat on the other side.

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Part Two: Sewing the Front

01
Match up the notches of your centre front piece and the front side panels, right sides together.
Pin along the princess seams together.

Start pinning where the notches

are, then continue to line up the
edges and pin. This is a curved
seam, so take your time!
Repeat on the other side.

Here’s what it will look like all pinned together:

02
Sew the seams with 3/8" (1 cm) seam allowance. To make sewing easier, sew with a shorter
stitch length than usual (2 mm is good). This will move the fabric along at a slower rate, so
that you have better control. Do your best to avoid any puckering of the fabric while sewing. If
you’d like, you can clip into the seam allowance around the really curved parts, which will
make them more flexible and thus easier to sew.

03
Trim the seam allowance down to about 1/4". Press the seam
allowance towards the side seams. If you are lining the top
completely, you do not need to finish the seams. If you are
using a facing, finish the seams using your preferred
method (overlocking, zig-zag stitching, bias binding, etc.)
If you’d like to add top stitching at these seams, sew the
seam allowance down 1/8" away from the stitch line.

Here’s what it should

look like so far:
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04
OPTION A: Repeat steps 1-3 with your
lining fabric.
OPTION B: Finish the bottom edges of
your facing pieces using overlocker or
zig-zag stitch.
Sew your front facing pieces together
with 3/8" seam allowance and press
the seam allowance open.

Part Three: Sewing the Back

01
Match up the notches of the centre back pieces with the notches of the side back panels, with
the pieces facing right sides together. Pin all along this seam.

Just like you did with the

front, start pinning where the
notches are, then continue to
line up the edges and pin.

02
Sew the seams with 3/8" (1 cm) seam allowance. To make sewing easier, sew with a shorter
stitch length than usual (2 mm is good). This will move the fabric along at a slower rate, so
that you have better control. Do your best to avoid any puckering of the fabric while sewing. If
you’d like, you can clip into the seam allowance around the really curved parts, which will
make them more flexible and thus easier to sew.
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03
Trim the seam allowance down to about 1/4". Press the
seam allowance towards the side seams. If you are lining
the top completely, you do not need to finish the seams.
If you are using a facing, finish the seams using your
preferred method (overlocking, zig-zag stitching, bias
binding, etc.)
If you’d like to add top stitching at these seams, sew the
seam allowance down 1/8" away from the stitch line.

Here’s what the back pieces

should look like so far:

04
OPTION A: Repeat steps 1-3 with your lining fabric.
OPTION B: Sew your centre back facing piece to the side back facing piece with 3/8" seam
allowance and press the seam allowance open.
Finish the bottom edge of your facing pieces using an overlocker or zig-zag stitch.
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05
If you are doing option B, overlock or zig-zag stitch the center back edges of your main fabric
as well as the facing. You can skip this step if you are doing option A

OVERLOCK/ZIG-ZAG STITCH
OVERLOCK/ZIG-ZAG STITCH

06
We will now install the invisible zipper at the centre back. To prepare, iron open the teeth of the
zipper.
TIP: If you’re working with a delicate fabric, you can apply a thin strip of fusible interfacing to
the centre back edges before installing the zipper (if you didn’t already interface your pieces).
 Place you main fabric pieces right sides up. Open the zipper all the way.
Turn the zipper so it is wrong side up and place the left side on the right
center back piece. This will result in the zipper teeth facing the right side
of the fabric. Pin the zipper into place, lining up the edge of the zipper
tape with the edge of the fabric.

ZIPPER RIGHT
SIDE OUT
BACK PIECES RIGHT SIDES OUT

ZIPPER GETS TURNED SO THAT IT

IS TOUCHING THE MAIN FABRIC
RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER.
 Mark the zipper about 2" up from the bottom. Sew the zipper into place
8 using an invisible zipper foot, starting from the neckline and ending at the
marked point.

After sewing, close the zipper and mark on the zipper (on the half that has
not been sewn) where the neckline hits, as well as where you stopped
stitching at the bottom.
 Open the zipper again and pin it to the left back piece, right sides
10 together. Use the mark on the top of the zipper to align it with the top
edge of the fabric. Pin into place, lining up the edge of the zipper tape
with the edge of the back piece.

Sew the zipper into place using your invisible zipper foot. Start at the top
11 and finish at the mark you placed at the bottom of the zipper.
 Close the zipper. Sew the remainder of the center back closed
12 with 1/2" seam allowance, starting where you finished sewing
the zipper. Using a regular zipper foot will allow you to sew
close to where you finished sewing the zipper. After sewing,
trim the excess zipper.

Sew here with

1/2" seam allowance
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Part Four: Attaching the

front and back
Pin the front and back bodice right sides together at the
shoulder seams. Sew together at 3/8" (1 cm) seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance open.

FRONT BODICE
WRONG SIDE UP
(RIGHT SIDES SHOULD BE
TOUCHING)

OPTION A: Repeat the last step with the lining pieces.

OPTION B: Repeat the last step with the facing pieces.

 Turn your main fabric right sides out and unzip the zipper
completely. Turn your lining/facing wrong side out and pin it to
the main fabric at the neckline, right sides together. Make sure
to line up the center back edges and shoulder seams.

Sew all around the neckline at 3/8" seam allowance. Trim the
seam allowance down to approximately 1/8" and press towards
the lining/facing. Understitch by sewing the seam allowance to
the lining/facing 1/8" away from the neckline seam.
Now we will sew the lining/facing to the zipper. Take the
lining at the center back and flip it over so it is touching
the zipper. Pin the lining to the zipper tape only (not the
main fabric).

LINING

PIN ZIPPER
TAPE TO
LINING/FACING
Sew the zipper tape to the lining/facing. You don’t need
to sew close to the zipper teeth, you can simply sew in
the middle of the zipper tape. It will be much easier to
sew if you use a regular zipper foot. Start as close as
you can to the top of the zipper and end at the point
where you finished the zipper on the main fabric.

**NOTE: if you are doing option B, you will do the exact

same thing, but you’ll stop sewing once you reach the
bottom of the facing.

OPTION A ONLY: Sew the remainder of the lining

closed, starting at the end of the previous stitchline.
Using a regular zipper foot will make this easier.
 I recommend trimming the top corners where the zipper
8
starts. Then you can turn everything right sides out and
give everything a good press!

Now we’re gonna work on the front panel. Start by

ironing each of your ties in half lengthwise. Then fold
the edges of the ties inwards so that they line up with
that original crease, similar to how you make bias
binding.
 On each tie, fold one of the sides inwards by 3/8" (1 cm) and
10 press. Then refold the ties alone the middle crease and press
everything nice and flat.

Start sewing along one of the long sides, starting from the side where
11 the edge has not been folded inwards. Sew about 1/8" away from the
side edge. Stop sewing when you reach the end of the tie but don’t
backstitch yet. With your needle still in the fabric, lift your presser foot
and turn the fabric so you can sew along the short edge. Sew over that
edge and repeat the same technique to pivot so you can continue
sewing along the other long edge.
 Grab one of your front panel pieces and lay it right side up. Pin
12 one of your ties to the center front edge close to the top of the
panel (I chose to place it 1.5" away from the top of the panel). Pin
another tie in place below the first tie (I chose to place it just
below the middle of the panel). Stitch these into place about 1/4"
away from the centre front edge.

CENTRE FRONT EDGE TOP EDGE

Pin both panel pieces right sides together and sew along each
13
side except for the side with the notches (3/8" seam allowance).
It’s a good idea to backstitch over the ties a few times to make
sure they are extra secure.
 Trim the corners to eliminate any bulk and turn the panel right
14 side out. Poke out those corners with a dull object (like a
chopstick or crochet hook) to get them nice and sharp. Press
everything flat.

Pin the panel to the main fabric of the front bodice at one of the
15 side seams (I pinned it to the left side), lining up the side
notches. Stitch the panel into place about 1/4" away from the
edge of the fabric

HERE IS THE SIDE NOTCH.

THE PANEL IS PINNED TO THE
MAIN FABRIC ONLY, NOT THE
LINING FABRIC.
16 On the other side of the front bodice, pin your other two
ties in place to the main fabric. I like to use the front
panel as a guide for where I should place the ties.

THE TIES ARE PINNED

IN PLACE SO THEY
MATCH UP WITH THE
TIES ON THE FRONT
PANEL. THE TIES ARE
PINNED TO THE MAIN
FABRIC ONLY, NOT
THE LINING.

Sew these ties in place, about 1/4" away from the edge
17 of the fabric.
We will now sew the side seams using the burrito method. I will be
explaining how to do this, but I have also linked a video tutorial in
case you need another explanation:

[Link]

18 Lay your top out flat with the right sides facing up, like in the
picture below. Roll the fabric up towards one of the armholes.
19 Once the fabric is rolled up, reach under the fabric and grab
the lining/facing fabric. Then match it up right sides together
with the main fabric at the shoulder seam, so that the rolled
up fabric is encased in between the lining/facing and the main
fabric. Continue to pin the lining to the main fabric all along
the armhole.

LINING OR
FACING

Here’s what it will look like all pinned

together. Make sure to not pin into
the rolled up fabric inside
 Sew along where you pinned with 3/8" (1 cm) seam allowance.
20 Make sure you don’t sew any of the rolled up fabric in
between the main fabric and the lining/facing.

Trim the seam allowance down to approximately 1/8". Turn the

21 top right side out and press the armhole flat.

22 Repeat steps 18-21 for the other armhole.

23 We will now close the side seams. Lay your top down as
shown below. Grab the tops of the side seams of both the
front and back bodice and bring them together, matching up
the seam that you just sewed.

LINE UP THESE SEAMS

GRAB THESE CORNERS

AND BRING THEM
RIGHT SIDES
TOGETHER
 Start pinning at the seams that you just matched together. These seams
24 are the ones which attach the lining/facing to the main fabric at the
armhole, so you will have one half which is the main fabric and the other
half which is the lining/facing . After pinning at those points, continue to
pin the front and back bodice together at the side seams, for both the
main fabric and the lining/facing.

MAIN FABRIC LINING

Sew along those side seams with 3/8" (1 cm) seam allowance. Press the
25 seam allowance open and as flat as possible. Before turning inside out,
cut away some of the seam allowance at that middle seam (where the
lining and main fabric meets) to eliminate some of the bulk at the
underarm point.

26 Repeat steps 23-25 for the other side of the top.

** If working with a facing, you should finish the side seams with a zig-
zag stitch or overlocker.
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Part Five: Finishing Touches

Before hemming the top, turn it right side out and try it on. You
may choose to adjust it slightly depending on your desired fit.
For example, you may choose to take it in at the side seams
for a more form fitting top.

Keep the top turned right side out. If you are using a facing,
finish the bottom edge with an overlocker or zig-zag stitch.
Press the hem of the main fabric up by 3/8" (1 cm) all the way
around.
 OPTION A ONLY: Fold the hem of the lining up by 1/2"
(1.27 cm) towards the wrong side and press.

MAIN
FABRIC

LINING

Pin the main fabric to the lining all along the bottom edge wrong sides
together, so the folded edges are touching together. The main fabric
should be about 1/8" longer than the lining so that the lining does not
show from the outside of the garment.
 Sew along the bottom 1/4" away from the edge. If you want it to look
extra professional, you can hand sew the lining and main fabric
together with an invisible stitch!

Congratulations! Your new

top is now complete!