MODULE 4

DRAFTING
BASIC & BLOCK
PATTERNS

Module 1 Intended Learning Outcomes

At the end of the module, the students will be able to:
1. Identify the elements and principle of design;
2. Explain the importance of the elements and principle of design;
3. Illustrate the different elements and principle of design; and
4. Develop traits such as honesty and value for quality work in achieving the
knowledge skills in identifying the elements and principle of design.

In the fascinating world of dressmaking, an artful blend of creativity and meticulous skill
comes to life. Module 4 in dressmaking is an introductory course that opens the doors to this
captivating realm. Through this course, students will embark on a journey filled with exciting
techniques and principles of designing and assembling garments. From understanding different
fabric types to mastering basic sewing techniques, this module aims to equip high school students
with the essential knowledge and skills to start their dressmaking adventure. By learning about
different fabric types, students can explore their potential in designing garments that suit various
occasions and personal preferences. They will also develop their understanding of measurements,
allowing them to create clothes that fit well and enhance the wearer's confidence. Additionally,
this module provides an opportunity for students to practice patience and attention to detail, as
dressmaking requires precision in cutting, sewing, and finishing each garment. Overall, the
introduction module in dressmaking equips high school students with the necessary knowledg/-
and skills to embark on an exciting journey in the world of fashion and garment creation.

Module 4: Techniques Involved in Drafting, Blocking of Patterns and Assembling of Skirts for Girls and
Slacks for Boys

Intended Learning Outcomes

At the end of the lesson, the students will be able to:
1. Identify the procedures in drafting the front and back
pattern of ladies’ skirt and slacks for boys, and the
procedures in drafting the front and back pattern of
slacks for boys;
2. Perform the procedure in drafting the front and back
pattern ladies skirt and slacks for boys, and the front
and back pattern slacks for boys; and
3. Create an individual pattern output and apply the
procedure in drafting.

Introduction

A competency-based curriculum is the set of specifications for a course or subject (module)

which describes all the training experiences a trainee or learner undergoes. It generally includes
learning outcomes, contents, conditions, methodologies and assessment methods. It specifies
outcomes which are consistent with the requirements of the workplace as agreed through industry
or community consultation.
This lesson will discuss on how to draft, blocking of patterns and correct assembling of
skirts for girls and slacks for boys..

Activity: Picture Analysis

Critically think your ideal skirt. Show your output on the box below.
 What do you think?

1. Why do we need to organize and categorize our drafting tools and materials?
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2. How importance is accuracy in drafting, and why?
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Let’s dig deeper!

Drafting Basic/ Block Pattern of the Skirt

Patterns are carefully drafted to give accurate results. They serve as a valuable guide in laying, cutting
and assembling the different parts during sewing.

Pattern Drafting - A system of crating patterns that reflect an individual’s measurement or the sizing
standards of an apparel company.
Two types of Patterns
Foundation Pattern – simple pattern that contains the exact body measurement and reflect no definite
style. It has five parts: back, blouse, front blouse, back-skirt, front skirt, and sleeve. Each part has dart
except the sleeve.
Style Pattern – above the style of the garment to be constructed. It contains the necessary seam
allowance that are found in the finish garment.
Drafting the foundation pattern, the following materials should use:
▪ Pattern paper
▪ Pencil with Eraser
▪ Tape measure
▪ Ruler
▪ Hip guide/L square
▪ Scissors
Drafting the Fundamental Lines of Skirt
The Skirt Pattern (Front & Back)
Drafting the skirt must (front & back) pattern, locating the four major lines will simplify your drafting
activities.
Procedure:
1. On your paper, draw a
2. Perpendicular line T. Mark the
3. Midpoint as 1.
4. From 1, measure 1cm down to get 2.
5. From 1, measure 1 ½ cm down to get 3.
6. From 1, measure 18cm to get 25cm
7. Down to get 4
8. From 2, apply the front skirt length
9. Down to get 5F
10. From 3, apply the back-skirt length
11. Down to get 5B
12. Square 4 and 5B to the left
13. Square 4 and 5F to the right

DRAFTING ON BACK SKIRT

1. Back skirt pattern, from 1 to 6B, use ¼ waist measurement plus 4 cm. Connect 3 to 6B with
broken line.
2. From 4 to 7B, use ¼ hip measurement plus 1.5 cm. Connect 6B t 7B by using hip curve
3. From 5B to 8B, use ¼ hip measurement plus 1 cm. Connect 7B to 8B.
4. From 3 to 9B, use ¼ bust point width minus 1.5cm.
5. From 9B to 10B, measure 4cm.
6. Get the midpoint of 9B and 10B and mark this 11B.
7. From 11B to 12B, measure 15cm. Connect 9B, 10B, and 11B to 12B to form the waist dart.
8. Fold 9B over 10B, Connect 3 to 6B with a slight curve.
9. From 6B to 13B, use the back-skirt side length.
10. Connect 5B to 13B with a slight curve.
 DRAFTING THE FRONT SKIRT

1. Basic front skirt pattern, from 1 to 6F, use ¼ waist measurement plus 2.5cm. Connect 6 to 6F
with a broken line.
2. From 4 to 7F, use ¼ hip measurement plus 1.5cm. Connect 6F to 7F with a slight curve.
3. From 5F to 8F, use ¼ hip measurement plus 1cm. Connect 7F to 8F with a straight line.
4. From 2 to 9F, use ½ bust point with minus 2cm.
5. From 9F to 10F, measure 2.5cm.
6. Get a midpoint of 9F to 10F and mark this 11F.
7. From 11F to 12F, measure 8cm t0 13 cm. Connect 9F, 10F, and 11F to from the waist dart.
8. Fold 9F over 10F, Connect 2 to 6F with a slight curve.
9. From 6F to 13F, use the front skirt side length.
10. Connect 5F and 13F with a slight curve.
 Drafting the Front Basic Skirt Pattern

Waistline

A From the top edge of the pattern paper, go down 2 inches

(5cm). Mark this point A. From point A, square or extend the
line across to 15 inches (38.5cm). This line will serve as the
waistline level.
B From point A (the waistline level) get ¼ of the waistline
measurement by folding the tape measure into four parts.
Mark it as the point B.
C From point B, go out 1 inch (2.6cm). Mark this point C. This
will make up for the dart allowance that will be added or
marked on the inside of the pattern.
D From point A, go down ½ inch (1.3cm). Mark this point D.
D-C Connect point D to point C with a curve ruler. This
adjustment on the waistline is to follow the roundness of the
curve of the stomach.
Dart Line

E From point A, get 1/8” of the waistline

measurement. Mark this point E. Point E will the
center of the dart allowance.
F From point E, go out ½ of an inch (1.3cm) for
the dart point. Mark this point F.
G From point E, go out ½ of the inch (1.3cm) for
the other point. Mark this point G.
H From point E, square down for a short figure 5”
(13cm), for medium height figure 5 and ½”
(14cm) or a tall figure 6” (15.5cm). mark this
point H. This will be the length of the dart.
Connect point H, to point E, F, G with straight
lines. This will serve as the dart lines.

Lower Hipline
I To get the lower hip level, lay the tape measure
from point A down to the lower hip level
measurement. Mark this point I. Square or extend
the line across 15” (38.5cm). This will serve as
your lower hip level. If in case you want to
determine the upper hip level, it is the center
between the waistline level and the lower hip
level.
J From point I, get ¼ of the lower hip
measurement, by folding the tape measure into 4
parts. Mark this point J.
C Connect point C to point J with a curve to shape
- the hip.
J

Length of the Skirt

K From point A, go down to the desired length of the skit. Mark this point K. from
point K, square of extend the line across to 15” (38.5cm). This line will serve as the
hemline level.
L From point K, get ¼ of the lower hip measurement, or bring down the measurement
form point I-J to point K-L. Mark this point L.
M From point K, go down ½ of an inch (1.3cm). Mark this point M. This hemline
adjustment is a must for the skirt.
M-L Connect point M to point L, with a curve ruler.
J-L Connect point J to point L, with a straight line.
 Pattern for the Waistband
Another piece of paper for drafting waistband
A-B Get the waistline measurement and make a line. Mark this A-B
C From B, add 3inches for closure allowance. Mark This C
D From A, go down 1 and ¼ inches for the thickness of the waistband. Mark this D,
the thickness of the waistband may vary depending on the thickness desired.
E From C, go down 1 and ¼ inches for the thickness of waistband. Mark this E, Make
line form E to D. The line eventually folded.
F From D, go down 1 and ¼ inches for the thickness of waistband. Mark this F
G From E, go down 1 and ¼ inches for the thickness of the waistband. Mark thus G,
line form F to G. Connect all points with a straight line.

Application:

Instruction: On a manila paper or pattern paper, draft the fundamental lines in a

drafting skirt pattern. Document your work by taking pictures in a step-by-step
procedure. Make sure you documented before, during, and after. You will be rated base
in rubrics below.
Criteria 5 3 1 Score
Use of tools Tools were Lack of one tool, Lack of two or more
complete, some were tools, some were
appropriate, and appropriate and appropriate and not
correctly used. correctly used. correctly used.
Procedure Used the correct Used the correct Failed to use the correct
method. The method. The method. The procedure
procedure was procedure was was not followed.
correctly followed. partly followed.
Pattern All patterns’ details Some pattern details All pattern details were
were correctly were inaccurately not drafted correctly
measured and drafted. and accurately
accurately drafted.
Speed Finished the pattern Finished the pattern Finished the pattern
ahead of time. on time more than allotted time.
Drafting Basic/ Block Pattern of the Slacks for Boys
Start at the very beginning
Draw a horizontal line at the bottom of your paper. I don’t worry
about the length of the line as I go back and make tick marks for the
width.

Draw a line perpendicular to your horizontal ankle line. You want to make
sure the perpendicular line, which is your crease line, is in the center of your
ankle. I usually just draw a long vertical line and don’t worry about length. I’ll
mark the distances I need instead of just trying to draw a line 19.5 inches long.

Draw horizontal line at your knee level. Make sure it is centered on the crease line.

If you haven’t already, continue the crease line.

Draw a horizontal line at the crotch level. Depending on your
measurements, your horizontal line will not be centered on the crease
line.

Continue the crease line.

Draw a horizontal line at the hip level. Remember that the distance from the
crease line to the center is the most important for pants fitting.

Connecting the Dots

Draw a straight line from ankle to knee along the inseam and side
seam.

Draw a straight line from the knee to the crotch level along the side seam.
Unless the knee width is really narrow, I have not had to smooth or curve
this line in any way.
Using a curved ruler, draw a curved line from the knee to the crotch
level along the inseam. I always use my Dritz ruler, and I always
place the far edge at the knee. Be careful not to create any weird
puckers or shapes when connecting from the knee to the crotch along
the inseam.

You don’t want the curve so extreme from the knee to the crotch that you
create a point at the knee. That’s why I place the far, least curved end at the
knee to create a gentle curve to the crotch hook.

Drafting the Torso

Draw a line perpendicular to the hip level. This is the reference line for the center front / back.
In this case, I’m drawing the front.
Depending on your body and fit preference, the length of the rise will vary,
but this is why I make sample garments of all my patterns beforehand. I want
to check if I need to raise or lower the waistband. Remember that I’m adding
a 2-inch elastic waistband to this pattern, so the rise will vary depending on
what waistband size I use.

Draw a horizontal line from center to the side seam.

From the center, measure the width of your waistband. How did I
determine how much up from the horizontal line to place the waistband?
Again, trial and error! With a sample garment pinned at the crease line,
you can smooth the pants over your body to determine where you want
the waistband to hit your hips. Remember not to pull or yank the pants
into place. My guess is that the side seam should be ½ to 1 inch above the
horizontal plane, but everyone’s different!

Crotch Hook
Continue the line drawn for the center down to the crotch level. Draw a
second reference line perfectly square with the crotch hook. The crotch
hook should have a perfect 90º angle when done. This prevents weird
flaps or divots when sewing the pants together. Square corners give
you smooth transitions.
3

For the pants I have drafted for Ryan and myself, I don’t allow any part of the
ruler to extend past my reference lines or my center line. In the image above,
the ruler goes beyond the pants along the center front. I would adjust my
ruler so that no part of the ruler extends past the center front.
After slightly rotating the ruler, now from the hip to the waist, the ruler
doesn’t go beyond the center front. This is just what works for Ryan
and me. This may not work for everyone.

I make sure that from the hip point down towards the crotch level, I
don’t follow the reference line. When my crotch hook begins, I want
it to immediately slope away from the hip point. If the top of your
crotch hook follows the reference line, you are actually dropping the
horizontal hip line. The hip level is the transition point between the
crotch curve and the upper part of the pants. That’s why I make sure
that when I draft my crotch curve, the top immediately starts
curving.

Nearly There

The last line to draft is from the crotch to the waist along the side
seam. With your curved ruler, find the best curve extending the entire
length that also includes the hip point. Drawing this line will be an
excellent indication of whether you have the correct numbers for your
body. Here are some examples.
In my blog post about drafting pants for your quadriceps, which is the
crotch level measurement, I mentioned that I really spent a lot of time
befuddled. I was befuddled because drafting guides say that the crease line
has to be at the center or near the center at the crotch level.

The other thing that can cause weird shape issues is crease line placement at
the hip. In my post about crease line placement at the hip, I question whether
measurements are absolute. For example, my crease line is 3.5 inches from
the center front. For a straighter figure, I assumed that Ryan would need 3.5
inches or less. If I draft pants 3.5 inches from the center front to the crease
line, this is how the front pattern piece would look.

Finishing Up

Make sure the crease line is drawn from the ankle all the way up
to the waistband. The ankle, knee, crotch, and hip lines should all
be perpendicular to the crease line.

Add the desired amount of seam allowance (e.g., ⅜-, ½-, ⅝-, 1-inch). I
usually at ⅝ inches, but that’s just preference. Add the desired amount
to hem allowance. I usually add 1 ½ inches to do a ½ inch fold
followed by a 1-inch fold. You may have to curve or slightly adjust the
waistband to get center front and the side seam square. The three
locations that need 90º angles are crotch hook, center front at the
waist, and side seam at the waist. Having things squared means you’ll
have smooth transitions and no weird flaps or divots.
Final Check
Once you have front and back pattern pieces drafted, ensure that the side seam lengths are the
same length. You don’t want to make pants and find out that they are ¼ inch different. Next,
make sure that the inseam lengths are nearly the same. The back leg inseam can be ½ inch
shorter but no more. Pants are often drafted with the back leg inseam ever so slightly shorter.
The top of the inseam near the crotch is usually on the bias and can be ever so slightly pulled
longer to fit the front leg inseam. This isn’t necessary, so if the front and back leg inseam are the
same, that’s fine!
I don’t have any grand conclusions for this post. If you are drafting patterns for yourself, here’s a
list of supplies I use. These aren’t affiliate links or anything, so feel free to use what you have or
shop around for something that fits your needs.

Application:

Instruction: On a manila paper or pattern paper, draft the fundamental lines in drafting
slacks for boy’s pattern. Document your work by taking pictures in a step-by-step
procedure. Make sure you documented before, during, and after. You will be rated base
in rubrics below.
Criteria 5 3 1 Score
Use of tools Tools were Lack of one tool, Lack of two or more
complete, some were tools, some were
appropriate, and appropriate and appropriate and not
correctly used. correctly used. correctly used.
Procedure Used the correct Used the correct Failed to use the correct
method. The method. The method. The procedure
procedure was procedure was was not followed.
correctly followed. partly followed.
Pattern All patterns’ details Some pattern details All pattern details were
were correctly were inaccurately not drafted correctly
measured and drafted. and accurately
accurately drafted.
Speed Finished the pattern Finished the pattern Finished the pattern
ahead of time. on time more than allotted time.

Closure
Congratulations for having completed this lesson. See you in your next journey to
becoming an educator.