Setting and Operating Sewing Machines
Setting and Operating Sewing Machines
22
WHAT IS THIS MODULE ABOUT?
Let us determine how much you already know about setting and
operating sewing machines. Read and understand the questions below.
Choose the correct answer and write it in your quiz notebook.
______1. The equipment that makes sewing easier and faster is:
a. electric iron b. iron board
c. sewing machine d. working table
______4. A machine which has an oiler tank where the oil is restored
under its bed is:
a. embroidery machine b. hemmer machine
c. hi-speed lockstitch machine d. over edging machine
______7. The mechanism which sets the sewing machine in motion is:
a. balance wheel b. belt
c. feed dog d. stitch regulator
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______8. The part of the sewing machine that controls the
looseness
and tightness of stitches is:
a. bobbin b. presser foot
c. thread guide d. upper tension
______9. The part of the sewing machine that checks the length of
stitches is:
a. balance wheel b. belt
c. feed dog d. stitch regulator
______10. The part of the sewing machine that controls the bobbin
while
winding the thread is:
a. bobbin winder b. needle bar
c. needle clamp d. spool pin
______12. The first step in threading the upper part of the sewing
machine is:
a. bring the thread to thread guide
b. pull it through the lower thread guide
c. put the spool of thread on the spool pin
d. thread the needle
______13. The first step in threading the lower part of the sewing
machine is to:
a. be sure that you hear the case being locked upon
inserting
the bobbin case inside the shuttle
b. pull the upper and lower thread together by 4 inches
c. put the bobbin back to the bobbin case and pull the
thread through the little slot at least 4 inches
d. remove the bobbin case pulling on the bobbin case
latch.
______15. When sewing, place one foot ______ on the treadle and the
other
foot slightly back.
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a. forward b. downward
c. sideward d. none of these
______16. The correct way to stop the electric sewing machine is to:
a. ask for assistance
b. control the treadle
c. foot off on the motor controller
d. push the sewing machine
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LESSON 1
The lesson deals with the types of the sewing machine and
sewing machine setting.
LET’S STUDY
Let’s Define
Sewing Equipment
26
Types of Sewing Machines
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6. Button Attachment Machine – this is used
in attaching buttons to the garments.
The two major parts of the lock stitch sewing machine are the
upper and lower parts.
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3. Thread Take up Lever releases the thread and interlocks
with the bobbin thread.
4. Presser bar lifter moves the presser foot high.
5. Tension controls the looseness and tightness of stitches.
6. Needle Bar holds the needle in place.
7. Needle Clamp holds and tightens the needle.
8. Presser Foot holds the fabric in place while sewing.
9. Needle is a slender tool attached in the needle clamp used
for sewing.
10. Bobbin Winder controls the bobbin while winding thread.
11. Stitch regulator checks the length of the stitches.
12. Balance Wheel sets the mechanism in motion.
13. Belt connects the balance wheel to the drive wheel.
14. Stop Motion Screw hinders moving when loosened and
starts
moving when tightened.
The lower parts of the sewing machine are the cabinet and the
stand. The cabinet has drawers and screw on the hinges for the
attachment of the head.
The following are the lower parts of the sewing machine and their
uses:
Needles
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Needles for the 31 -15 machines are of a class and variety known as 16
x 87. These needles are furnished in sizes 14, 16, 17, 18, 19, 21, 22,
and 23.
The size of a needle is shown by a number stamped on its shank.
The low numbers indicate needles of small diameters, while the higher
numbers indicate larger sizes.
In machine stitching, the thread must pass freely through the eye
of the needle. If the needle is too small, the thread will pull through the
eye with difficulty and interfere with successful operation of the
machine. On the other hand, if the needle is too coarse it will leave
holes in the material. Therefore, the needle size depends upon the size
of thread to be used.
Threads
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The thread should be selected to suit the materials to be sewn.
The color, size and kind of thread are very important to the finished
appearance of the garment. A thread which is shaded darker than the
material is usually preferred as it blends well.
Machine thread for use in the garment shop is usually furnished
on cones. The taper of the cone allows the thread to unwind freely as it
is drawn through the machine. For general sewing, a soft finished
cotton thread is more desirable than a glazed thread for it will slip
down the cone and tangle. Mercerized cotton frays badly when used on
the sewing machine.
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becoming a competent operator. It is just as important to master the
operation of threading a needle for hand sewing. Now, are you ready to
become a competent operator?
1. Spool Pin
2. Upper thread guide
3. Between metal disc of tension
4. Thread take up lever
5. Lower thread guide
6. Needle
Steps:
1. Put the spool of thread on the spool pin.
2. Bring the thread to the thread guide.
3. Pull the thread between the metal disc of the tension.
4. Bring the thread up to the thread take up lever and raise it as
it goes.
5. Pull the thread down to the thread guide.
6. Pull it through the lower thread guide.
7. Thread the needle.
Steps:
1. Remove the bobbin case by pulling on the bobbin case latch.
2. Remove the bobbin from the case and wind the thread.
3. Put the bobbin back to the bobbin case and pull the thread
through the little slot at least 4 inches.
4. Be sure that you hear the case being locked upon inserting
the bobbin case inside the shuttle.
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5. Start the mechanism by rolling the balance wheel forward to
get the thread of the bobbin through the needle.
6. Pull the upper and lower thread together by 4 inches.
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5. Remove the bobbin from the case by
releasing the latch and turning the
open end of the case downward to
allow the bobbin to drop out.
Make sure that the bobbin fit the bobbin case of the machine you are
using.
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3. Wind the end of the thread a little
around the bobbin towards you, lift
the bobbin winder latch and press the
bobbin through its spindle.
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LET’S REMEMBER
Column A Column B
_____1. This is used in making fancy a. hi-speed lockstitch sewing
stitches and in making machine
different kinds of embroidery b. lockstitch sewing
machine
stitches. c. Button holer machine
_____2. This is used for making d. Hemming machine
button holes on garment. e. Over edging machine
_____3. This is sometimes called f. Embroidery machine
“straight stitching machine”.
_____4. This is usually used at home and
sometimes in school.
_____5. This finishes the raw edges of the
pattern construction.
II. Identify the parts of the lockstitch sewing machine. Write your
answers in your quiz notebook.
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III. Arrange the steps in threading the upper and lower parts of the
sewing machine. Write number 1 for the first step, 2 for the second
step, and so on. Write your answer in your quiz notebook.
______ Remove the bobbin case by pulling on the bobbin case latch.
______ Pull the upper and lower thread together by four inches.
______ Remove the bobbin from the case and wind the thread.
______ Start the mechanism by rolling the balance wheel forward to get
the thread of the bobbin through the needle.
______ Be sure that you hear the case being locked upon inserting the
bobbin case inside the shuttle.
______ Put the bobbin back to the bobbin case and pull the thread
through the little slot at least four inches.
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LET’S APPLY WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED!
Task 1
Pair Work
1. Practice the following:
a. Threading the upper parts of the sewing machine
b. Threading the lower parts of the sewing machine
c. Removing the bobbin and bobbin case
d. Winding the bobbin
SCORING RUBRICS
Very
Satisfactor Fairly Needs
Excellent Satisfactor
Criteria y Satisfactory Improvement Score
(5) y
(3) (2) (1)
(4)
1. Steps Some of the Few of the Most of the Did not follow
Knowledge were steps were steps were steps were any of the
followed omitted not followed not followed steps
from step
1 to the
last
2. Speed Finished Finished on Finished but Finished but Did not finish
ahead of time late by late by more
time three than 3
minutes minutes
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3. Did not Needed Needed Needed Needed
Assistance need assistance assistance assistance assistance
required assistance once twice four to five every time
times
Task 2
Individual Tasks
1. Cut out pictures of different types of the sewing machine. Identify
or label each type. Then submit it to your teacher.
2. Draw pictures of a lockstitch sewing machine and identify its
parts.
RESOURCES
Equipment
Lockstitch Sewing Machine
Hi-speed Sewing Machine
Edging Machine
Tools
Scissors
Supplies
Thread
Accessories
Presser foot
Machine Needle
Learning Materials
Writing Pad
Learning Modules
Manuals
Textbook
REFERENCES
40
De Cosse, Cy. et al. Singer (Sewing Update). U.S.A. Contemporary Book
Inc., 1988.
http//www. [Link]
LESSON 2
The lesson deals with the materials used for sample run and
sewing machine operations.
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1. obtain appropriate materials used for sample run in
operating a sewing machine
2. find pleasure in obtaining materials and in operating a
sewing machine
3. operate sewing machine properly
LET’S STUDY
Let’s Define
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3. Label – refers to the information of fabric such as a) fiber
content and percentages, b) name or identification number of
manufacturer, c) permanent – care label, d) then brand name
of the product.
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Sewing Machine Operation
Now that you are able to obtain materials appropriate for the
setting of the sewing machine, let us proceed to machine operation.
1. Always work with the light coming from the left. In this way you
can see your work well. Your eyes do not suffer from the glare of
a light that shines directly if it comes from the left.
2. Wash your hands before working. This will keep your work clean.
Unwashed hands will soil your work. If your hands perspire, have
a hand towel nearby. Wipe your hands on the towel every time
that you feel they are moist. Let some time pass before washing
your hands after doing some sewing. The hands should not be
washed when they are tired.
3. Use the scissors for cutting thread. They cut well than your teeth.
It is not sanitary to put anything but food and drink in the mouth.
Cutting thread with your teeth is unsanitary. Always have a pair
of scissors nearby to cut thread either from the spool or ball or
from the work. Breaking the thread by the hands is not advisable
either. Sometimes thread has a very tight twist. It is difficult to
break the thread with a tight twist.
4. Be careful when handling scissors or shears. Keep the point away
from you. Always place them in your box after using. Do not
leave them around. Children may get hold of them and get hurt.
1. Sit correctly while using the sewing machine. Put the chair
directly in front of the machine. Sit well back on the chair. Put
both of your feet on the treadle. Treadle with both feet. Do not
use just one foot for treadling. You will have better balance and
better control using both feet on the treadle. Place one foot in
front and one to the back.
2. Your left hand guides the material as it is being stitched. Keep
your hand a safe distance from the needle. Do not run the
machine too fast. Learn to guide your material as you learn how
to run the machine.
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3. Your right hand starts the balance wheel. Use the open palm of
the right hand to start and stop the machine. Do not use your
fingers. They may get caught in the wheel.
4. Before cutting the thread leave about 6 centimeters of it from the
needle. In this way the thread does not get out of the needle
when you next start stitching.
5. To fasten machine stitching use either of the two methods:
a. Retrace the stitching both at the beginning and at the end.
This is sometimes called backstitching. Start or stop the
machine with the needle in the material. Raise the presser
foot, turn the material around, lower the presser foot and
stitch about 1 cm. in the reverse direction in the line of
stitching. Retrace the 1 cm. of stitching and continue.
Some machines are made with stitch backwards. Then in
this case the material need not be turned around.
b. Tie the ends of the threads. The stitching is started and
stopped at the points desired. The ends of the thread are
left long enough for tying. Pull the threads to the wrong
side. Tie the threads close to the material. Then cut the
threads with scissors.
1. Place the foot forward on the treadle and the other foot slightly
back.
2. Using the right hand, turn the balance wheel.
Note: Practice until the balance wheel continues in the same direction
and the treadle can be operated with an even, regular rhythm.
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Electric machine is easier to operate than the treadle machine
especially when you learn how to control the treadle. Here are the
steps in operating the electric machine:
Procedure
1. Sit in an erect position, well back on the seat of the chair, and
close to the machine. The chair should be placed so that the
center of the body will be in line with the needle.
2. Start the motor by turning the switch to the “on” position.
3. Raise the presser foot with the presser bar lifter.
4. Turn the balance wheel toward you until the needle is raised
above the presser foot.
5. Place the material under the presser foot.
6. Lower the presser foot by pressing against the knee press.
Note: Pressure on the knee press will release the presser bar
when locked in the raised position.
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7. Place the right foot on the treadle with the weight of the foot
resting on the heel.
8. Place the hands on material at each side of the presser foot.
9. Start the machine by pressing down on the treadle with the ball
of the foot.
[Link] the material with the finger tips as the work feeds through
the machine.
Caution: Keep both hands at a safe distance to the right and left of the
needle.
[Link] the machine when the needle is about one inch from the
end
of the material.
Caution: Avoid running the machine with the presser
foot directly against the feeder. This causes excessive
wear on those parts.
12. Move the balance wheel by hand so that the needle is down
through the material; then, raise the presser foot with the knee
press and swing the material on the needle end for end.
[Link] running the material through the machine from end to
end until a fair degree of control is acquired.
LET’S REMEMBER
47
LET’S APPLY WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED!
Tasks
1. Visit 2 or more dress shops near your locality. Ask for swatches
for fabrics appropriate for beginners like you. Examine, analyze
and classify the textures and quality of different fabrics.. Make a
table of comparison and submit it to your teacher.
SCORING RUBRICS
48
2. Speed Finished Finished on Finished but Finished but Did not finish
ahead of time late by late by more
time three than 3
minutes minutes
RESOURCES
Equipment
Sewing Machine
Tools
Shears / Scissors
Supplies
Thread
Pieces of scrap fabrics
Learning Materials
Manual and Textbook
REFERENCES
Del Rosario, Marissa and Constancia Del Rosario. Clothing and Textiles
III & IV. Manila. Philippine Book Company. 1986.
49
Erwin, Mabel D. Clothing for Moderns. Sixth Edition. Quezon City. JMC
Press Inc., 1979.
http/
/www. [Link]
LESSON 3
50
The lesson deals on how sewing machine outputs are tested and
how to make adjustments on the sewing machine.
LET’S STUDY
Let’s Define
Consistent– uniformed.
Interlock – to engage or interlace together.
Lint – soft light pieces of thread or wool that come off.
Long groove – the point where the shuttle hooks and the
needle meets.
Pressure – the force exerted on the fabric as it is moved,
by the action of the feed, under the presser
foot.
Sheer off – to change direction suddenly, especially in
order to avoid something.
Short groove – the part of the needle blade.
Stitch length - refers to how long each individual stitch
is.
Swatches – small pieces of fabrics.
Tangles – a twisted mass of thread.
Tension - refers to the force that is applied by the
machine on your thread.
Tension spring – small screw in the outside part of the
Howbobbin
to Test Sewing Machine Output
case.
Now you are ready for hands on testing, which requires some
prior practice at home. Let us start by, preparing the following:
1. Arrange the swatches, right side to wrong side, with the smaller
swatch on top and one side aligned.
2. Overlap each set of swatches by ½” and baste together by
machine or with glue stick.
3. Stitch on the swatches by stitching straight lines at various stitch
lengths.
4. Set the stitch length at 15-12, position the swatches, and lower
the presser foot. Turn the balance wheel by hand to see whether
the needle stitches are in the same hole or not on each down
stroke of the needle.
After accomplishing the activity above you can test the output
using the following:
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How to Make Adjustment on the Machine
53
Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 3
54
ends of the spring near the delivery eye are damaged, they
should be replaced. Consult your teacher if defective parts
are discovered.
Figure 4
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How to Regulate the Pressure on the Material
Figure 6
Note: A pressure that is too heavy will cause the machine to run
hard and will leave the print of the feed on fine materials.
Figure 7
Turn the balance wheel towards you until the needle bar
moves up to its highest point.
Loosen the screw in the lower end of the needle bar.
Remove the needle.
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Tighten the screw in the clamp.(Figure 8)
Figure 8
Caution: Keep the left hand away from the lower end of
the
needle bar when tightening the clamping screw,
as
the screw driver might slip and injure the hand.
LET’S REMEMBER
57
____________________________________________________________
_____________________
Tasks
Individual
58
Length of Consistency Tension of
Types of Fabric
Stitches of Stitches Stitches
Silk
Denim
Cotton
2. Below are the samples of stitches. Judge the following stitches by
writing your observations below.
A B C
STITCHES A
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
____________________.
STITCHES B
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
____________________.
STITCHES C
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
____________________.
Dial Observation
Number
3
59
8
4. Set the stitch length to 30-20, 15-12, and 10-8. Make two rows of
stitches on a scrap of fabric for each adjustment. Observe and
record the changes using the table below.
Stitch Observation
Length
30-20
15-12
10-8
RESOURCES
Equipment
Sewing machine
Tools
Scissors
Flat screw
Supplies
Swatches of fabric
Thread
Learning Materials
Learning Module
Writing Pad
Textbook & Manual
REFERENCES
Erwin, Mabel D. Clothing for Moderns. Sixth Edition. JMC Press, Inc.,
1979.
60
Garment Making. Basic Operations.
http//www. [Link]
LESSON 4
61
The lesson deals with the importance of recording, record and
report on sewing machines set.
LET’S STUDY
Let’s Define
62
Record Matrix Form
Machine No. 1
ADJUSTMENTS AND
ATTACHMENTS
Dat Project
Upper No. of Remarks Students
e Title Stitch Thread
Tensio Needl
Setting Use
n e
July
Straight Polyeste Joanne
14, 5 10-8 14 Good
Stitching r Thread Zartiga
2008
63
c. Bad tension
d. Seam breaking away
Appearanc Preventio
Fault Cause Effect Action
e n
Uneven Size of the Weak part Change Check the
Stitches needle did in stitches the size of size of the
not match which the needle needle and
the under which the
thickness pressure matches thickness
of a fabric. would the fabric. of the
break fabric.
away.
LET’S REMEMBER
64
HOW MUCH HAVE YOU LEARNED?
6. How does record matrix and fault analysis help in the operation
of sewing machine?
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
___________________________.
Tasks
65
Individual
ADJUSTMENTS AND
Project ATTACHMENTS Remark Student
Date Stitch No. of
Title Upper Thread s s
Settin Needl
Tension Use
g e
Name: Date:
Machine No.:
Appearanc Preventio
Fault Cause Effect Action
e n
RESOURCES
Equipment
Sewing machine
Tools
Scissors/shears
Supplies
Needle
Threads
66
Swatches of fabric
Learning Materials
Writing Materials
Textbook & Manual
Learning Module
Record Matrix (Sample Form)
Fault Analysis Card (Sample Form)
REFERENCES
[Link]
[Link]
POST TEST
67
Let us determine how much have you learned about setting and
operating sewing machines. Read and understand the questions below.
Select the best answer and write the letter of the correct answer in
your quiz notebook.
______1. When sewing, place one foot ______ on the treadle and the
other
foot slightly back.
a. forward b. downward
c. sideward d. none of these
______2. The part of the sewing machine that controls the looseness
and
tightness of stitches.
a. bobbin b. presser foot
c. thread guide d. upper tension
______3. The part of the sewing machine that checks the length of
stitches is:
a. balance wheel b. belt
c. feed dog d. stitch regulator
______4. The equipment that makes sewing easier and faster is:
a. electric iron b. iron board
c. sewing machine d. working table
______5. The part of the sewing machine that controls the bobbin while
winding thread is:
a. bobbin winder b. needle bar
c. needle clamp d. spool pin
______6. Size of sewing machine needle used for general
sewing is:
a. 10 b. 12
c. 14 d. 16
______7. The machine run by foot and it may also be converted to
electric power machine is:
a. hemmer machine b. high speed over edger
c. lockstitch machine d. over edging machine
______8. This machine has an oiler tank where the oil is restored under
its bed is:
a. embroidery machine b. hemmer machine
c. hi-speed lockstitch machine d. over edging machine
______9. These fabrics appear different in the up-and-down directions
depending on the reflection of light is called:
a. napped b. non-woven
c. synthetic d. wash-and-wear
______10. A machine used in making fancy stitches and in making
different kinds of embroidery stitches on fabrics is:
a. button holer machine b. double needle machine
c. embroidery machine d. lockstitch sewing machine
______11. The flat portion of the machine where the thread is mounted:
a. arm b. bed
c. cabinet d. head
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______12. The mechanism of the sewing machine that sets it in motion
is:
a. balance wheel b. belt
c. feed dog d. stitch regulator
______13. The first step in threading the upper part of the sewing
machine is to:
a. bring the thread to thread guide
b. pull it through the lower thread guide
c. put the spool of thread on the spool pin
d. thread the needle
______14. The first step in threading the lower part of the sewing
machine is to:
a. be sure that you hear the case being locked upon inserting
the bobbin case inside the shuttle
b. pull the upper and lower thread together by 4 inches
c. put the bobbin back to the bobbin case and pull the thread
through the little slot at least 4 inches
d. remove the bobbin case pulling on the bobbin case latch.
______15. The best fabric suitable for beginners is:
a. brocade b. cotton
c. satin d. velvet
______16. The correct way to stop the electric sewing machine is:
a. ask for assistance
b. foot off on the motor controller
c. push the sewing machine
______17. The pressure must be regulated according to the _______ to
be
stitched.
a. fabric b. material
c. paper d. plastic
______18. A good characteristic of machine stitches is:
a. There are skipped or broken gaps in stitching
b. The length of stitch is proportioned to the texture of the
fabric
c. The stitching has tangles
d. None of the above
______19. The upper tension controls the thread from the:
a. bobbin b. needle
c. thread guide d. spool pin
______20. The lower tension controls the thread from the:
a. bobbin b. bobbin case
c. feed dog d. shuttle
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Key to Correction
Post
Pretest Lesson 1 Lesson 3
Test
1. C I. II. III. II. 1. A
2. C 1. F 1. Spool pin A. 1. √ 2. D
3. C 2. C 2. Presser foot 4 2. √ 3. D
4. C 3. A 3. Thread guide 5 3. х 4. C
5. A 4. B 4. Upper tension 6 4. х 5. A
6. B 5. E 5. Stitch regulator 1 5. √ 6. C
7. A 6. Thread take-up 3 7. C
8. D lever 2 III. 8. C
9. D 7. Needle clamp 1. stitch 9. A
10. A 8. Presser bar lifter B. 2. material 10. C
11. A 9. Feed dog 6 3. outside 11. B
12. C 10. Balance wheel 5 4. stitch 12. A
13. C 11. Bobbin winder 1 regulator 13. C
14. B 12. Belt 2 5. top 14. C
15. A 13. Drive wheel 3 15. B
16. C 14. Treadle 4 16. C
17. B 15. Bed 17. A
18. D 16. Throat plate C. 18. B
19. A 17. Dress guard 1 19. D
20. A 6 20. A
2
5
4
3
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