Fabel
MEASUREMENTS (CM) GAUGE/TENSION:
Bust circumference: 126S 135M 144L 18 stitches in two-colored pattern = 10 cm
Full length: 72S 75M 77L (before blocking)
Sleeves: 36S 38M 40L.
Note: The stated gauge for the yarn Suri
YARN QUANTITY (GRAMS) norwegian lambswool is 15 stitches per 10
I made my versions in Suri norwegian cm on 5 mm needles. For this garment, the
lambswool yarn from [Link]. The measurements are based on a gauge of 18
yarn is a mix of wool and cotton. For stitches per 10 cm on 5 mm needles. This is
reference, the gauge/tension on the yarn is because the designer knits tighter when
15 stitches = 10 cm on needle 5, and one working colorwork than with regular
ball (50 grams) measures 135 meters. stockinette stitch. If you don’t knit tighter
when doing colorwork, you may need to go
Color 1 (main color) 300S 350M 400L down a needle size. Therefore I recommend
Color 2: 200S 200M 250L knitting a swatch or checking your gauge
early on.
The main color is used for the ribbing and
cable panel on the sleeves. In the sample, RIGHTS:
the main color is blush pink, and color 2 is This knitting pattern is developed by
apple green. Randine Grini | @strikkerandine and is
protected by copyright law. It is not allowed
RECOMMENDED NEEDLES: to copy, sell, or distribute the pattern.
Circular needles size 5 mm, 80 cm and 40
cm length
INFORMATION:
Fabel is an oversized, playful, and airy sweater that combines textured knitting with colorwork.
The body is knitted from the bottom up. The sleeves are constructed similarly to my other
designs, Fryd and Senja: first, you cast on for a cable pattern, which is knitted back and forth.
After binding off, the short edges are sewn together into a tube. From one side of the tube,
stitches are picked up to form the sleeve, which is knitted in the round with a colorwork pattern.
Once both sleeves are finished, they are attached to the body, and the rest of the sweater is
worked in pattern with raglan decreases.
I recommend steaming the sweater when finished. This helps even out the pattern and gives the
garment an airier fit. The given measurements are based on the dimensions after steaming. If
you prefer blocking instead of steaming, that works as well.
BODY:
Using size 5 mm circular needles (80 cm), cast on 226S 242M 258L stitches in the main color.
Place a marker at the beginning of the round and another marker after 113S 121M 129 L stitches.
Work 1x1 rib (K1, P1) for approximately 5 cm. End with a round of knit stitches.
Now divide for the pattern: The body pattern consists of the chart (diagram) repeated across the
stitches. Constant stripes are worked along the side seams. Begin by the first marker with
knitting *1 stitch in main color, 1 stitch in color 2, 1 stitch in main color, then follow the chart for
13 S 14 M 15 L repeats. End with the first 3 stitches of the chart, and then knit 1 stitch in main color,
1 stitch in color 2, 1 stitch in main color*. You have now reached the second marker. Repeat *…*
for the front of the body.
Knit in pattern until the piece measures approximately 42S 44M 46 L cm. Now shape the armholes
by binding off the first 5 stitches, knit across the back until 5 stitches remain before the marker.
Bind off 10 stitches, knit across the front until 5 stitches remain, and bind off these stitches. You
will now have 206 S 222 M 238 L stitches remaining.
Note: My garment stops at row 7 in the chart vertically. When you later knit the sleeves, be
aware that the sleeves must end at the same row vertically, so the pattern aligns when the body
and sleeves are joined.
SLEEVES:
Cast on 29 stitches in the main color on 5 mm needles (40 cm). Work the cable structure as
follows: P3, K2, P4, K1, P4, K1, P4, K1, P4, K2, P3. Turn and knit as the stitches appear for 3 more
rows. Tip: To create a neat edge, slip the first and last stitch purlwise on the wrong side rows.
Begin cabling on the next right-side row: For the first set of 4 knit stitches, place the first 2
stitches on a cable needle and hold them at the back, knit the next 2 stitches, then knit the 2
stitches from the cable needle. For the next set of 4 knit stitches, place the first 2 stitches on a
cable needle and hold them in front, knit the next 2 stitches, then knit the 2 stitches from the
cable needle. Repeat the cable pattern on the next two areas with 4 knit stitches.
Continue the cable pattern every 4th row from the right side until the panel measures
approximately 30 cm. Bind off and sew the short edges together to form a tube.
Using a 5 mm circular needle (40 cm), pick up 73 stitches from one side of the tube using the
main color. Place a marker at the beginning of the round. Knit one round. Next, divide for the
pattern: Knit 1 stitch in main color, 1 stitch in color 2, 1 stitch in main color, then repeat the
chart 8 times, ending with the first 3 stitches of the chart, and then knit 1 stitch in main color, 1
stitch in color 2, 1 stitch in main color.
Continue working in the pattern until the sleeve measures approximately 36S 38M 40L cm or your
desired length. Now shape the armhole by binding off 5 stitches at the beginning and end of the
round = 63 stitches remaining. Place the remaining stitches on hold and knit the second sleeve.
Note: it is possible to adapt the length of the sleeves more, but make sure that both sleeves and
the body end on the same row of the chart to match up during raglan shaping later on. When
binding of, the sleeve should reach just above your elbow.
BODY:
Now the sleeves should be attached to the needle along with the body, and the rest of the
sweater is knitted in the round with raglan decreases. Start with a round where you attach the
sleeves and simultaneously divide for the raglan using 1 beginning-of-round marker and 8 raglan
markers. The round begins at the back of the right shoulder:
Place a marker to indicate the start of the round. Knit 1 stitch in the main color, 1 stitch in color
2, and place a raglan marker. Knit the pattern across the back section until 2 stitches remain
before the armhole decrease. Place a raglan marker, knit 1 stitch in color 2, 1 stitch in the main
color. Now, knit the stitches for the left sleeve onto the needle. Knit 1 stitch in the main color, 1
stitch in color 2, and place a raglan marker. Continue knitting the sleeve onto the needle
according to the pattern. When 2 stitches remain from the sleeve section, place a raglan marker
and knit 1 stitch in color 2, 1 stitch in the main color. Next up is knitting across the front section.
Begin with knit 1 stitch in the main color, 1 stitch in color 2, and place a raglan marker. Knit the
pattern across the remaining stitches of the front section until 2 stitches remain. Place a raglan
marker and knit 1 stitch in color 2, 1 stitch in the main color. Now, knit the stitches for the right
sleeve onto the needle. Knit 1 stitch in the main color, 1 stitch in color 2, and place a raglan
marker. Continue knitting the sleeve onto the needle according to the pattern. When 2 stitches
remain from the sleeve section, place a raglan marker and knit 1 stitch in color 2, 1 stitch in the
main color. You are now back at the beginning-of-round marker. The stitch distribution will be as
follows:
S: 4 raglan stitches, 99 stitches for the back, 4 raglan stitches, 59 stitches for the left sleeve, 4
raglan stitches, 99 stitches for the front, 4 raglan stitches, 59 stitches for the right sleeve = 332
stitches.
M: 4 raglan stitches, 107 stitches for the back, 4 raglan stitches, 59 stitches for the left sleeve, 4
raglan stitches, 107 stitches for the front, 4 raglan stitches, 59 stitches for the right sleeve = 348
stitches.
L: 4 raglan stitches, 115 stitches for the back, 4 raglan stitches, 59 stitches for the left sleeve, 4
raglan stitches, 115 stitches for the front, 4 raglan stitches, 59 stitches for the right sleeve = 364
stitches.
Continue with raglan decreases every other round. A round with decreases consists of a total of
8 stitches decreased: one decrease before each raglan marker (right-side decrease) and one
decrease after each raglan marker (left-side decrease). The pattern continues according to the
chart, but it will gradually diminish towards the raglan stitches, which form 4 constant stitches
running up towards the neckline. After a decrease round, knit a plain round.
Right-side decrease: Knit 2 stitches together through the back loops.
Left-side decrease: Knit 2 stitches together.
Continue with raglan decreases every other round until you have a total of: 164S 180M 188L
stitches. This corresponds to: 21S 21M 22L rounds of raglan decreases. Next, proceed with the
neck shaping.
NECK SHAPING AND NECKBAND:
Work one round of raglan decreases as usual. When you reach the front stitches, bind off the
center 27 stitches for the neckline, and continue with raglan decreases to the end of the round.
Break the yarn and move all stitches from the right needle to the left needle without knitting
them. Turn the garment so the next row begins from the wrong side at the left shoulder (where
the neckline shaping started).
Work back across the wrong side, knitting purl stitches and continuing the pattern. Tip: If you're
unfamiliar with working colorwork on the wrong side, you can check the right side to see which
color should be worked next.
Turn to the right side and work a row of decreases: Knit 2 stitches together at the beginning of
the row for neckline shaping, then continue with raglan decreases and pattern as before, ending
with another knit 2 stitches together. Turn to the wrong side again and purl across, maintaining
the colorwork pattern.
Repeat these rows, decreasing for both the neckline and raglan shaping on every right-side row,
and purling back on every wrong-side row until there are 3S 1M 1L stitches remaining for each
sleeve. Bind off the remaining stitches. Pick up neckline stitches using the main color: pick up
approximately 74S 76M 78L stitches around the neckline. Work 1x1 rib (K1, P1) for 5 cm, then bind
off loosely.
FINISHING:
Sew underarm seams and weave in all ends. Block or steam the sweater to even out the pattern
and achieve the desired drape. You now have your own Fabel sweater! Feel free to share your
creation by tagging @skappeloslo and @strikkerandine.