Topics will be discussed:

Ø Definition & Types of Interlining.

Ø Advantages of fusible interlining
Ø Conditions of Fusing
Ø Types of fusible interlining
Ø Properties of fusible interlining
Ø Methods of resin coating
Ø Fusing m/c
Ø Types of fusing
Ø Quality control parameter for fusing
 What is Interlining?

One separate kind of fabrics except the body fabrics, which is used between two layers of
original fabrics in order to keep some of parts or components of a garment fair, strong and
attractive & also for retaining the actual shape is called interlining.

Types of Interlining:
Sewn Interlining

• Polyethylene Coated Interlining

• Polyester Coated Interlining
• Polypropylene Coated Interlining
Fusible Interlining • Polyamide Coated Interlining
• PVC Coated Interlining
• PVA Coated Interlining
 Sewn Interlining
When we combine a number of layers of fabric and sew it frequently, we call it sewn
interlining. Sewing interlining is joined with main fabric of the garments by sewing. This
type of interlining takes much time. Its usage is limited because of the quality, price & time.

Fusible Interlining
The interlining which is joined with the main fabric with the help of heat and pressure is
called fusible interlining. The fusible interlining is made by using a light coating of
thermoplastic resin on the fabrics. Placing the fusible interlining properly on the garment
parts, when heat & pressure are applied, the thermoplastic resins melt due to the pressure, it
helps in joining the interlining with the fabric of the garments.
 Advantages of fusible Interlining

ü Time usage is minimum in case of joining fusible interlining with main fabrics.
ü It takes fewer labor and higher output is obtained in lesser time.
ü Joining process of fusible interlining in fusing technique is very easy. That’s why no so-
called skilled workers are required or no need of giving any special training.
ü When garments are made through fusible interlining, consistencies are found in shapes,
external beauties and in qualities, which is not found all the time in sewn interlining.
ü The beauty & quality achieved in garments through fusible interlining are higher than
sewn interlining.
ü Sometimes fusible interlining can be used as work aid such as in making of waist belt
slotted interlining helps in belt making.
ü Sufficient quantity of fusible interlining is available in market for purchase.
 Conditions of Fusing
Fusible interlining can be joined in various ways. Whatever the way of fusing in case of fusible
interlining , due to keep maintaining proper quality & appearance, some conditions are needed
to be fulfilled during fusing which are discussed below:
v Beauty: The garments that are made using fusible interlining should be beautiful to look at
which is involved with quality of stiffness, draping, handling of the fused parts. For this
reason what type of fusible interlining is compatible with what type of fabric should be
selected with special care to keep the beauty & benefit unaffected.
v Strength: Fusible interlining is joined by using resin bond. The strength of this resin bond
should be such that interlining is not separated from fabric during making of garments, using
& washing of garments. Specially it is necessary to retain the strength of the bond till the
normal life of the garment. Otherwise if the bond is separated, that places will be uneven &
garments will look bad. If interlining selection is wrong then this type of problem may arise.
v Special quality: During finishing some special qualities are developed. Care should be taken
so that these qualities are not damaged during fusing. For example, during joining of fusible
interlining with showerproof fabric, the showerproof quality of the fused portion may be
damaged due to temperature.
 Conditions of Fusing
v Proper fusing: During fusing care should be taken so that strike back or strike through does
not happen during fusing. If the temperature or pressure is higher during fusing, then melted
resin may come out in the front by penetrating the fabric of the garment, which is called strike
through. If the melted resin goes downward by penetrating the main fabric, then it is called
strike through. Both strike back & strike through are harmful for garment & fusing m/c which
should be avoided with care.
v Shrinking in heat: Normally fusing is done at 150̊-170̊ C temperature and some fabrics may
shrink at this temperature. So this must be checked out so that fabric of the garments does not
shrink during fusing, otherwise problem will arise in the time of production of garments and
produced garments will be shorter size than expected size.
v Resemblance in external appearance: When fusing is done on piled fabrics, the pile of the fused
portion may deviate due to application of both heat & pressure during fusing. If it happens, then
difference may be seen in appearance between fused & non-fused parts of garments. So it
should be checked so that resemblance in appearance is not harmed.
v Fabric color: Care should be taken so that the color of the place of the garment where fusing
will be done is not changed . Otherwise garment will be rejected due to shade matching
problem.
 Properties of fusible Interlining

q The fabric of the garment or the color of the fabric should not be damaged in the temperature
at which fusing will be done. The highest temperature of fusing should not go beyond 175̊C.
q The minimum temperature of the fusing should be such that the bond of the fabric & the
interlining is not separated during the time of washing or using of the garments. The lowest
temperature of fusing should not go below 110̊C.
q The bond of the fusible interlining should not be damaged at least in one option of the two: in
washing with water or in dry cleaning.
q The desired rigidity & handling after fusing of the interlining should be obtained.

q The color of the interlining should be white or transparent, but it can be desired color also.
But there should not be any difference in color of garment due to color of interlining.

q During the fusing of interlining or during the use of garment, it should not be harmful for
health.
 Types of fusible Interlining

1. Polyethylene coated fusible Interlining:

Polyethylene coating is used as resin in this type of interlining. The amount of coating on
the base fabric may vary. Based on the amount of polyethylene coating, its quality may be
high or low. Greater the amount of coating , after fusing of that interlining, the fused part
will be hard up to strength. Garments made by this type of interlining may be washed by
water but can not be dry cleaned. But if the amount of resins are high then it can be dry
cleaned. Generally this type of interlining is used in collars of garments.
 Types of fusible Interlining
2. Polypropylene coated fusible Interlining:

The quality of this type of interlining is similar to a great extent to the polyethylene coated
interlining, but fusing is done at comparatively higher temperature. This type of interlining
can be washed by water.
 Types of fusible Interlining
3. Polyamide coated fusible Interlining:

Various types of polyamide resins are used in various amount on the fabrics of this type of
interlining. This type of interlining is used in those garments which can be dry cleaned and can
also be washed by water below 60̊ C temperature, but in this case high temperature fusible
interlining has to be used.
 Types of fusible Interlining
4. Polyester coated fusible Interlining:
Polyester coating is used as resin in this type of interlining. The difference of the quality of the
interlining depends on the amount of polyester coating. This type of interlining can be used in all
types of garments because it is not damaged if it is washed by water or dry cleaned. As this
interlining is applicable for all kinds of garments, it is called standard interlining. The price of this
type of interlining is comparatively higher.
 Types of fusible Interlining
5. PVC coated fusible Interlining:
The coating of polyvinyl chloride is used in various amounts on the base fabric of interlining.
This type of interlining can be used in all types of garments, because it is not damaged by water
during washing or in dry cleaning. This type of interlining is used much, specially in making
coats.
 Types of fusible Interlining
5. PVA coated fusible Interlining:
This type of interlining is made by applying light coating of plasticized poly vinyl acetate on the
main fabric of interlining. This type of interlining can not be dry cleaned, but can be mild water
washed. Generally in garment industry this type of interlining is not used frequently.
 Methods of Resin Coating

Fusible interlining is made by applying the layer or coating of resin on base fabric. There
are differences of quality based on the types of coating of resins. In various ways resin
coatings can be done , but most widely used methods of coating are discussed below:

I. Scatter coating
II. Dry dot coating
III. Paste coating
IV. Film coating
V. Emulsion coating
 Methods of Resin Coating
1. Scatter coating:
In this method, resins are spread in very small particles which is scattered on the base fabric of the
interlining with the help of a special type of head. Then the resins melted with heat and melted
resins are joined properly with the fabric by pressure. When the temperature of the resins of the
interlining is reduced then the coating of the resins are firmly joined with the base fabric of the
interlining. In scatter coating method, the size of the resin particles are between 150 to 400 micron,
which is bigger than the other methods. In this method, the cost for resin coating is minimum, but
the uniformity of the quality and flexibility of the interlining are comparatively low.
2. Dry dot coating:
The fine powder of resin is printed on the main fabric of the interlining in dot shape with the help
of an engraved roller. Then the dot printed fabric is passed through the oven. Resin melts in the
temperature of the oven and by the pressure of the roller the melted resins are joined well with the
fabric. There may be different types of temperature and the pressure for different types of resins.
The number of dots per cm may be 3 to 12. In case of dry dot, the size of the resin particle may be
used between 80 to 200 micron. Small size of dots are used for light fabrics and big size of dots are
used for coarse type of fabrics.
 Methods of Resin Coating
3. Paste coating:
In this method, the fine resin powder is converted to a paste by water and chemicals. Then that
paste is printed on the base fabric of the interlining in the shape of small dots in specific pattern.
Water and chemicals are driven out from the dots of paste by applying heat. As a result, the dots of
the resins are joined with the fabric. The sizes of resin particles in paste coating may be from 1 to
80 micron. In this method, the resin coating is done with the minimum sizes of dots.
4. Film coating:
In this method, melting the resins in heat its coating is applied as light films on the main fabric by
m/c. Generally the coating of polyethylene resin is much used in this method. The flexibility of the
film coating interlining is low.
5. Emulsion coating:
In this method, the resin powder is converted to emulsion with the help of water and chemicals. Then
the base fabric of the interlining is passed through the container of the emulsion. As a result, the
fabric soaks the emulsion. The excess emulsion is separated from the fabric with the help of a pair of
squeeze roller. Finally the emulsion fabric is passed through an oven. The fabric is dried and the
coating of the resin is adhered fairly on the both sides of the fabric. Very hard hand feeling obtained
after fusing of this type of coated interlining.
 Types of Fusing Machine
Fusing machines are mainly of four types.

Hand Iron Flat bed fusing press

Continuous fusing press High frequency fusing m/c

 Types of Fusing Machine
Hand Iron:

§ The interlinings which are fused comparatively in low temperature & in low pressure, those are
fused by hand iron.
§ During fusing with hand iron none of the three factors of temperature, pressure or fusing time
can be controlled properly. As a result, the strength of the resin bond is very weak . For this
reason, after sewing of the garment with fusing of hand iron, once more final fusing is done
with the help of a fusing press for getting better result.
§ If final fusing is not done with the help of a fusing press, during washing or using of garments
the bond between the garment and the interlining may be separated.
§ Hand Iron is generally used in small parts in doing primary fusing.
 Types of Fusing Machine

Flat bed fusing press:

M/c description:
• In this type of fusing press , there are generally two beds- 1. static bed & 2. moving bed. The
static bed is called Buck and moving bed is called Head.
• The top of the buck is covered by some soft bed made of fabrics, blankets or silicon rubbers.
• The surface of the both buck & head is covered by such fabric , where there is coating of
PTFE.
• As a result, the melted resins, dusts or spots can be easily cleaned.
• The head is heated with electricity or vapor. Sometimes there are arrangements of heat
producing in bucks also.
• The methods of coming down of the head on the buck may be of 2 types: a) vertical action b)
scissors action. In vertical action press, balanced pressure can be obtained. The pressure that is
applied by head on the buck is controlled mechanically, hydraulically and pneumatically.
• Generally the size of the head and buck is 1m ×1/2m and shape of the head & buck not only
flat, it may be as per the shape of specific parts of garments.
• In modern flat bed fusing m/c, 2 or 3 bucks may be there with a head.
 Types of Fusing Machine
Continuous fusing press:
• In this type of m/c, placing the garment parts & the interlining one upon another properly on
the endless or loop shaped feed sheet and fed in flat condition.
• Feed sheet carry this part and the interlinings to the fusing chamber of the m/c where required
heat and pressure are applied. In order to transmission of heat in the interlining, direct or
indirect heating method is applied.
• Just after applying heat, required pressure is applied on the interlining with the help of a pair
of rollers.
• The surface of the roller is generally covered by hard rubber. With the help of spring or
pneumatic power, pressure is created in the rollers and there is arrangement of increasing or
decreasing the amount of heat as required.
• The pre-settled time of fusing is determined through the controlling of speed of endless feed
sheet.
• Just after fusing, the fused parts are removed carefully from the delivery sheet.
• Production is high & quality of fusing is also good.
• This m/c is best suited for fusing of piled fabrics because here pressure is applied for very short
time. So less possibility of damaging in case of piled fabrics.
 Types of Fusing Machine

High frequency fusing m/c:

Working principle:
• In this type of m/c, heat is created as the same process of microwave cooker. Fabrics &
interlinings are arranged in stacks and are placed between two metal plates of fusing m/c.
• The upper plate exerts pressure on the plies of fabrics & interlining with the help of spring
pressure. With electrical connection atoms within the materials between the plates moves at
a very high speed, as a result due to high friction heat is generated within the material.
• This heat is generated in well balance, equally and at the same time everywhere of the plies
of fabric & interlining. This method of heat generation is called di-electric heating.
• For generation of heat in this process, presence of water vapor is must. For the difference
of amount of water vapor, difference of heat also may happen.
• Fusing can be done by applying comparatively small amount of heat on the fabric. Up to
7cm height of fabric lay & interlining can be fused.
• Time requirement for fusing depends on electrical power of the m/c, generally it takes 1-
3min for fusing.
 Types of Fusing Machine

Precautions:
• Before fusing in this type of m/c, m/c has to be set with special care and during the
setting, the nature of fiber in fabric, height of lay in fabric, amount of water vapor in
fabric have to be considered.
• Proper setting of m/c is the main problem of this type of m/c because due to setting
problem, there may happen problems of over fusing or under fusing.
• If there is over fusing, the fabrics and interlining of the lay join together & is converted
to a hard block. For under fusing, the power of the bond is inadequate.
• Though the rate of production is very high, for complexity of setting m/c and for bigger
risk of defective production, the use of this type of m/c is very much limited.
 Types of Fusing
There are mainly 3 types of fusing which are discussed below:
1. Reverse fusing: When the interlining fabric is spread on fusing bed by keeping the surface of
resin side of interlining on the top and then the fabric of the garment is spread on it and fusing is
done, this kind of fusing is called reverse fusing. Here volume of interlining is some extent
shorter than volume of fabric of garment.

2. Sandwich fusing: When heat is applied from both side in top & bottom, two pairs that means
two fabrics of garments are placed in outside and two interlining inside and then fusing is done
which is called sandwich fusing. Continuous fusing m/c is used. If heat & pressure are not
controlled well then due to strike back fault , four layers may be joined together. It takes much
time in preparation & quality is not satisfactory.
3. Double fusing: In this method, two types of interlining are joined at a time. This type of
fusing is generally joined at the collar of the shirt and at the front part of a coat. The shirt when
one piece collar is used, in those collars first one interlining is fused, then another 3mm slotted
interlining is attached with fusing at the place where collar is folded. Temperature should be
controlled properly specially during accurate cutting & setting of the parts of the garment and
the parts of interlining are very much essential.
 Quality control parameter/ Factors in Fusing
1. Temperature: The interlining manufacturing authority will recommend the temperature at
which the fusible interlining will be fused. The difference of the temperature of fusing depends
on the type of interlining.
2. Pressure: In everywhere of the bed of the fusing press and of the roller, sufficient and balanced
pressure should be applied, otherwise the balanced bond strength of the fused parts is not
obtained.
3. Fusing time: The time for which heat & pressure are applied on the fabric of the garment and
the interlining during the period of fusing is called fusing time. The increasing & reducing of
fusing time depend on the type of fabric of the garment & type of interlining. More time is
required for coarse fabric.
4. Pilling strength: Due to fusing resin bond is made between the fabric of garment and the
interlining. For measuring strength of fusing, the bond strength is measured and it is compared
with standard bond strength of the fabric & interlining. For measuring bond strength, pilling
strength is found out.
5. Dry cleaning or washing: The fused parts needs to be tested after washing by water or after dry
cleaning, specially it is checked whether there has been any change in appearance or change in
bond strength, any change of color of fabric and shrinkage of fabric.