Course Code: PHA 107

Cosmetic Product Development

Student’s Guide Module #5

Name:____________________________________________________________ Class number: _______

Section: ____________ Schedule: _____________________________________ Date: _______________

Lesson title: Skin Care Products: Sun Care Products Materials:

Lesson Objectives:  Pen, SAS, highlighter
At the end of this module, the students should be able to:
1. Understand the light spectrum affecting the skin Reference:
2. Differentiate chemical and physical sunscreens Baki, G. and Alexander K. (2015).
3. Identify different sun care product formulations Introduction to Cosmetic Formulation
4. List ingredients necessary for sun care products and Technology

Productivity Tip:
Start the day with a proactive mindset. Starting the day with an expectation that what you do matters will give you the
best chance of getting off to a productive start.

A. LESSON PREVIEW/REVIEW
Introduction (2 mins)
Skin exposure affects the skin in many ways. In the short term, it can lead to reddening, irritation, and
eventually tanning, which is the main reason for most people sunbathing. There are, however, long-term effects of
UV radiation, which are irreversible and often malignant. Sun exposure is now increasingly recognized as the
possible cause of premature wrinkling and various types of skin cancer. For these reasons, sun protection has
become a very important issue today. UV filters, ingredients that can effectively protect the skin from UV
radiation, are now incorporated not only into sunscreens but also in daily-use cosmetics, such as moisturizing
creams, foundations, and lipsticks. Appropriate skin care should follow any type of sun exposure to help the skin
maintain its integrity and barrier function. This module provides a summary on the major types of UV radiation
and their positive and negative effects on the human body. It reviews sunscreen ingredients, the major product
types, and their characteristics.
Activity 1: What I Know Chart, part 1 (5 mins)
Instructions: In this chart, reflect on what you know. Do not worry if you are not sure of your answers. This
activity simply serves to get you started on thinking about our topic. Answer only the first column “What I
Know”. Leave the “What I learned” blank at this time.

What I Know Questions: What I Learned (Activity 4)

1. What is the meaning of SPF?

2. What is the difference between

physical and chemical
sunscreens?

This document is the property of PHINMA EDUCATION

 Course Code: PHA 107
Cosmetic Product Development
Student’s Guide Module #5

Name:____________________________________________________________ Class number: _______

Section: ____________ Schedule: _____________________________________ Date: _______________

[Link] LESSON
1) Activity 2: Content Notes (25 mins)
Instructions: Read and take note or highlight some important and striking information. This will help in retaining
essential information upon your review.
_________________________________________________________________________________________________

Sun Protection Basics

The Light Spectrum

The sun emits a constant flow of energy in the form of electromagnetic radiation, which ranges over a wide
spectrum of wavelengths. The electromagnetic spectrum is divided into categories defined by the size of the wavelength,
frequency, and energy. Radio waves at the bottom of the spectrum have the lowest energy and lowest frequency; their
wavelengths are long with peaks far apart. Microwave radiation has higher energy, followed by infrared waves, visible
waves, UV rays, and X-rays. At the top of the spectrum,
gamma rays have the highest energy and shortest
wavelength with peaks closer to one another. Most
electromagnetic radiation from space is unable to reach
the surface of the Earth due to the Earth’s atmosphere.
The electromagnetic waves reaching us consist of only
a portion of the UV light, visible light, a portion of the
infrared rays (near-infrared light), and radio waves.
Consequently, the surface of our planet is not exposed
to cosmic rays, gamma rays, and X-rays, each of which
is potentially lethal. Of the wavelengths of radiation
that reach the Earth’s surface, UV has the highest
energy. Therefore, it has the highest importance in
relation to sun exposure.

Electromagnetic spectrum. The shaded areas indicate rays that do not reach the
Earth’s surface. Infrared rays are partially filtered out.

UV radiation represents 5% of the total solar radiation reaching the Earth’s surface. As sunlight passes through the
atmosphere, all UVC and approximately 90% of UVB radiation are absorbed by ozone, water vapor, oxygen, and carbon
dioxide. UVA radiation is less affected by the atmosphere. Therefore, the UV radiation reaching the Earth’s surface is
largely composed of UVA (approximately 95%) with a small UVB component (approximately 5%). UV radiation can be
divided into three categories based on wavelength. These are:

1. UVC: ranges from 100 to 280 nm and is blocked out by the ozone layer.

2. UVB: radiation ranges from 280 to 320 nm. UVB rays mainly penetrate the superficial skin layers. It is the major
cause of sunburn, which is acute skin damage perceived as redness. Additionally, it has been identified as a
leading factor in the development of skin cancer. The immediate result of UVB radiation is skin redness and
thickening of the SC, which is a defense reaction of the body to reduce the UVB effect on the epidermis. The
redness and potential pain subside in a relatively short amount of time; however, the underlying damage
accumulates over time. This leads to the formation of various types of skin cancer. Additionally, UVB
contributes to photoaging and tanning and also has immunosuppressive effects. An advantageous effect of the

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 Course Code: PHA 107
Cosmetic Product Development
Student’s Guide Module #5

Name:____________________________________________________________ Class number: _______

Section: ____________ Schedule: _____________________________________ Date: _______________

UVB radiation is that it is responsible for the synthesis of

vitamin D in the skin. The intensity of UVB varies by season,
location, and time of day. UVB rays do not significantly
penetrate glass.

3. UVA: radiation ranges from 320 to 400 nm. Due to their longer
wavelength, it penetrates deeper into the skin, down to the
dermis. These rays can be further subdivided into UVA II (320–
340 nm) and UVA I (340–400 nm). On the short term, UVA
radiation leads to skin tanning which is often considered a sign
of health. It is unfortunate since tanning, whether outdoor or
indoor tanning, causes cumulative damage over time, leading to
photoaging. UVA has long been identified as a leading factor in
photoaging; however, until recently, it was not believed to cause
any cancer. Studies over the past decades, however, showed that
UVA damages keratinocytes in the basal cell layer where the
most of the skin cancers occur. Therefore, on the long term, it
can also contribute to and may even initiate the formation of
skin cancer. Additionally, UVA weakens the immune system,
which also helps the development of skin cancer. Photosensitivity reactions are also primarily mediated by UVA.

Sun Protection Factor (SPF)

The term “sun protection factor” (hereinafter referred to as “SPF”) was adopted by the FDA to describe the effectiveness
of sunscreens. SPF is a measure that indicates how long it takes for UV rays to redden protected skin (i.e., skin with
a sunscreen) compared to unprotected skin. As the SPF value increases, sunburn protection increases. The effectiveness
of a given SPF is measured in terms of redness (medically termed “erythema”) that appears on the skin after sun exposure.
The amount of UV energy required to produce the first visible redness on the skin is referred to as the minimal erythema
dose (hereinafter referred to as “MED”). As SPF values are determined from the test that measures protection against
sunburn caused by UVB radiation, SPF values only indicate a sunscreen’s UVB protection.

sun protection factor (SPF) = minimal erythema dose (MED) with sunscreen
minimal erythema dose (MED) without sunscreen

The number you see associated with SPF represents the length of time (in minutes) you can theoretically stay out in the
sun without burning, multiplied by the corresponding number. For example, a person who would normally start to burn in
10 min could theoretically have 150 min of sun protection with a sunscreen that has an SPF of 15. This is only true in
theory, though since SPF is not directly related to the time of solar exposure, but to the amount of solar exposure.
Historically, SPF values have ranged from 2 to greater than 100. This led to the assumption that higher SPF provides
significantly better sun protection (i.e., SPF 30 being twice as protective as SPF 15). This is not true, however. It has been
shown in in vitro tests that SPF 15 sunscreens filter out 93% of UVB rays, while SPF 30 protects against 97% and SPF 50,
98%.22–24 The higher the number, the smaller the difference in terms of UVB protection. Again, keep it in mind that the
SPF value refers to the amount of solar exposure against which the sunscreen provides protection and not the length of
solar exposure you can have without getting sunburn.

This document is the property of PHINMA EDUCATION

 Course Code: PHA 107
Cosmetic Product Development
Student’s Guide Module #5

Name:____________________________________________________________ Class number: _______

Section: ____________ Schedule: _____________________________________ Date: _______________

Broad-Spectrum Protection
The term “broad-spectrum protection” refers to protection against both UVA and UVB rays. It has been shown in
studies that using sunscreens with even a high SPF value does not provide appropriate protection against UVA radiation,
which is responsible for photoaging and skin cancer formation. Therefore, in order to prevent the long-term effects,
protection is needed against both types of rays. Due to increasing concerns regarding the skin damaging effect of UVA
radiation, the FDA recently issued new requirements for sunscreens. The new rules include testing and labeling
requirements for protection against UVA radiation. Sunscreens that meet the FDA standard for both UVA and UVB
protection can be labeled as “broad spectrum.” This term has been used for a while; however, it did not have an official
definition or a standard testing. Now standardized methods are available to measure UVA protection. The new
requirements also specify statements that should be used on product labels to indicate whether the product provides
protection against aging and skin cancer or just sunburn. Scientific studies have demonstrated that products that are broad-
spectrum with SPF 15 or higher can reduce the risk of skin cancer and early skin aging when used with other skin
protection measures.

According to the new rules, broad-spectrum sunscreens with an SPF 15 or higher can have the following
statement on the labels: “…decreases the risk of skin cancer and early skin aging caused by the sun.” However, any
sunscreen that is not broad spectrum or is less than SPF 15 broad spectrum has to put the following warning statement on
its label to inform consumers about the potential adverse effects of sun damage. The warning statement reads as follows:
“… Spending time in the sun increases your risk of skin cancer and early skin aging. This product has been shown only to
help prevent sunburn, not skin cancer or early skin aging.”

Water Resistance
Sweating, swimming, and other water exposure can reduce the efficacy of sunscreens by rubbing them off and
washing them off from the skin. In order to clarify whether a product provides any water-resistance properties, the new
sunscreen guidelines include terms that should be and can be used on the labels. Additionally, it identifies claims that
cannot be made. According to the FDA monograph on sunscreens, products can be labeled as “water resistant” or “very
water resistant” depending on how long they can retain the stated SPF after immersion in water.
In order to maintain the claimed sun protection, sunscreens have to be reapplied regularly, especially after
swimming or heavy sweating. The labels also have to include directions to reapply the product. Terms such as “sunblock,”
“waterproof,” and “sunproof” are not allowed to be used on product labels since these may be misleading. No sunscreens
today are 100% waterproof and none of them can filter out sunlight at 100%. Additionally, sunscreens cannot claim to
provide sun protection for more than 2 h without reapplication or to provide protection immediately after application (e.g.,
instant protection) without obtaining FDA approval.

Effects of Ultraviolet Radiation on the Human Body

UV radiation can affect human health, both positively and negatively. These are enumerated below:
 Its main positive effect is related to vitamin D production in human skin, which is catalyzed by UVB light.
Vitamin D has a significant role in bone health and the prevention of osteoporosis and osteomalacia. It also affects
a variety of adult health problems. It lowers blood pressure in hypertensive patients; the incidence and severity of
cardiovascular disorders, type 2 diabetes, and rheumatoid arthritis; and also helps prevent tooth loss. Vitamin D
also has a significant role in reducing the mortality from various cancers, including colon, breast, prostate, ovarian,
and even – ironically – melanoma (the most severe form of skin cancer). For most children and adults, the major
source of vitamin D is sunlight, which obviously creates a public health dilemma since UV radiation also causes
skin cancers.

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 Course Code: PHA 107
Cosmetic Product Development
Student’s Guide Module #5

Name:____________________________________________________________ Class number: _______

Section: ____________ Schedule: _____________________________________ Date: _______________

 Exposure to UV radiation in the form of lasers, lamps, or a combination of these devices is helpful in certain
skin conditions that do not respond to other methods of therapy. Such skin conditions include psoriasis, eczema,
certain fungal skin infections, and acne, among others. Phototherapy involves exposing a patient to a carefully
monitored dose of UV radiation on a regular schedule. This type of therapy does not eliminate the negative side
effects of UV exposure; however, treatment is carefully supervised by a healthcare professional to ensure that the
benefits outweigh the risks.

 Sun exposure has also been found helpful to reduce the severity of depression in patients with seasonal affective
disorders.

 Tanning is not healthy; it is a sign of skin damage. This damage builds up and accelerates aging and can also
increase the risk for all types of skin cancer. Both the US Department of Health and Human Services and the
WHO have identified UV as a proven human carcinogen. UV radiation is considered the main cause of non-
melanoma skin cancers, including basal cell carcinoma and squamous cell carcinoma. Additionally, UV radiation
is one of the major risks for the development of melanoma, the deadliest form of skin cancer, especially for fair-
skinned people.

 UV radiation is also linked with various eye diseases, including cataract formation and retinal degeneration.

 As discussed earlier, UV radiation plays a leading role in photoaging and the premature appearance of lines and
wrinkles as well as sun spots.

 UV radiation causes the melanocytes, located in the basal cell layer of the epidermis, to produce melanin, which
is the pigment that makes the skin darker

It is important to understand the relationship between skin pigmentation and photoprotection from the perspective of
skin cancer. Studies show that melanin provides the skin with natural protection against solar damage by serving as a
physical barrier and an absorbent. However, the amount of melanin that is produced in fair-skinned people following
exposure to the sun is relatively low and does not afford them adequate protection. Dark skin, which contains more
melanin than fair skin, is better protected against UV-induced damage. That is why dark-skinned people often look
younger than fair-skinned people of the same age. Nevertheless, even dark-skinned people should avoid excessive sun
exposure. While the epidermis of African American skin allows only 7.4% of UVB and 17.5% of UVA to penetrate, 24%
UVB and 55% UVA pass through Caucasian skin. Claims made for the healthfulness of indoor tanning are misleading
since it may make consumers believe that they can acquire effective protection when tanning. The amount of melanin
produced, however, is not enough to be an effective filter against UV radiation.

Types and Definition of Sun Care Products

Sun exposure is unavoidable in our daily lives; however, without appropriate protection, the sun can severely
damage our skin on the short as well as long term. Sunscreens are considered OTC drugs in the US since they help
prevent various skin conditions, including sunburn, aging, and skin cancer. After-sun products, on the other hand are
considered cosmetics in the US.
Sunscreens are designed to provide photoprotection against the harmful radiation of the sun, including both UVA
and UVB radiations. The protection they provide can be through chemical and/or physical methods. Sunscreens are

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 Course Code: PHA 107
Cosmetic Product Development
Student’s Guide Module #5

Name:____________________________________________________________ Class number: _______

Section: ____________ Schedule: _____________________________________ Date: _______________

available in a variety of dosage forms, including creams, lotions, sticks, wipes, gels, as well as aerosols. Sunscreen
products can be classified into two main categories according to their purpose:

1. Primary sunscreens are products whose main purpose is to provide photoprotection for the skin, such as beach
sunscreens and products used for outdoor activities.

2. Secondary sunscreens are products that have a primary use other than skin protection, such as daily
moisturizing creams, antiaging creams, and color cosmetics, such as facial foundations. For this category of
products, sun protection is an additional benefit, but not the main purpose of their use.

After-sun products are designed to be used after exposure to the sun or other UV radiation. After sunbathing, even
without any signs of redness, appropriate skin care is recommended. After-sun preparations help smooth and moisturize
the skin as well as provide a cooling effect and relieve pain resulting from sunburn. Product forms include lotions, creams,
and gels.

Sunscreens
From a consumer perspective, a quality skin cleansing Sunscreens represent a practical approach to
product should possess the following characteristics: photoprotection. Sunscreen ingredients are usually
Sunscreens referred to as UV filters and are identified on product
 Provide protection against both UVB and UVA labels as active ingredients.
radiation
 Allow some tanning appropriate foaming UV Filters
property UV filters are classified into two groups based on their
 Water-resistant mechanism of action: physical and chemical sunscreens.
Sun damage preparations A single product usually contains more than one active
 Alleviate pain ingredient, both physical and chemical filters, to achieve
 Sooth and moisturize the skin the desired SPF value and broad-spectrum protection. It
 Leaves no residue should be noted, however, that the OTC monograph
 Non-odorous and non-sticky includes restrictions for the combination of certain
 Non-staining for skin or clothing ingredients.
 Pleasant feeling during and after application o Physical sunscreens, otherwise known as
 Easy spreadability inorganic UV filters, reflect and scatter UV
 Quick drying time and absorption after radiation. There are two approved physical
application filters in the US, namely titanium dioxide
 User-friendly to encourage frequent application (TiO2) and zinc oxide (ZnO). Both of these
and ingredients are white powders that are
 Provide reliable protection insoluble in the sunscreen product base.
 Non-toxic, non-irritant, and non-sensitizing Therefore, they are suspended in such
products.

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 Course Code: PHA 107
Cosmetic Product Development
Student’s Guide Module #5

Name:____________________________________________________________ Class number: _______

Section: ____________ Schedule: _____________________________________ Date: _______________

Inorganic sunscreens can only penetrate the outer layer of the skin. Therefore, they have an excellent safety profile.
Additionally, inorganic filters are photostable, independent of the sunscreen base and other ingredients. Inorganic filters
provide a broad-spectrum protection since they reflect and scatter both UVA and UVB radiations (TiO2 offers UVB and
UVA II protection, while ZnO provides protection against UVB, UVA II, and UVA I radiations). The main disadvantage
of inorganic filters with regular particle size is that they reflect and scatter UV radiation into the visible spectrum (>400
nm), which provide a white appearance on the skin after application. This can make sunscreens cosmetically less
appealing and can lead to reduced application by consumers. Therefore, today, TiO2 and ZnO are commonly used in
micronized (i.e., with a particle size of 1–100 μm) and nanonized (i.e., with a particle size of 1–100 nm) forms for an
aesthetically more appealing cosmetic look. Another advantage of smaller particles is that they feel lighter on the skin.
Additionally, inorganic filters are more often used in combination with organic filters to provide broad-spectrum
protection while maintaining good aesthetics.
o Chemical sunscreens, otherwise known as organic UV filters, are generally aromatic compounds. Their
molecular structure is responsible for absorbing UV energy. Organic filters absorb UV rays, which produce
excitation of the sunscreen chemical to a higher energy state. Then, they return to the ground state and convert
the absorbed energy into longer, lower energy wavelengths (heat). Currently, there are 15 organic sunscreen
ingredients approved in the US. Examples for organic UVB absorbing filters include octinoxate, octisalate, and
padimate O. Examples for UVA filters include avobenzone, oxybenzone, and meradimate. Organic filters are
often combined with one another to achieve the desired broad-spectrum protection. According to the OTC
monograph for sunscreens, a sunscreen product must have a minimum SPF of not less than the number of
active sunscreen ingredients used in combination multiplied by 2. Organic sunscreens can penetrate the skin
due to their lipophilic nature, which may cause safety concerns. An issue with many of the organic sunscreens
is their photostability. Upon exposure to UV radiation, the structure of UV filters may be negatively affected
and/or destructed. As a result, instead of returning to the ground state, they lose their absorption capacity.
Therefore, when organic and inorganic filters are combined, surface-treated inorganic filters should be used, for
example, silica-coated, aluminum-coated, or silicon-coated TiO2 or ZnO.

Working principle of the two main types of UV filters. (a) physical sunscreens
and (b) chemical sunscreens.

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 Course Code: PHA 107
Cosmetic Product Development
Student’s Guide Module #5

Name:____________________________________________________________ Class number: _______

Section: ____________ Schedule: _____________________________________ Date: _______________

Additional Ingredients of Sunscreens

Inactive ingredients generally found in sunscreen products depend on the dosage form. The vehicle determines which UV
filters can be used based on their polarity and solubility characteristics. The most commonly used ingredient types are
summarized in the table below.

Additional Ingredients Examples

Waterproofing agents dimethicone 350, cyclomethicone, and

dimethicone/trimethylsiloxysilicate, Alkylated
polyvinylpyrrolidones (PVPs)
Photostabilizers octocrylene (for avobenzone specifically) and TiO2,
polyester-8
Emollients mineral oil, shea butter, castor oil, cocoa butter, isopropyl
myristate, isohexadecane, paraffin, and silicones
Solvent Water, alcohol (for aerosol products)

Emulsifiers glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, cetyl alcohol,

polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, and cetyl
dimethicone copolyol
Thickeners carbomers; cellulose derivatives, such as hydroxy
propylcellulose; gums, such as xanthan gum; and other
polymers, such as acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate
crosspolymer
Film-forming ingredients hydrolyzed wheat protein/PVP crosspolymer, methylcel
lulose, polyester-7, and acrylates/octylacrylamide
copolymer
Antioxidants vitamins E and C.

Preservatives parabens, benzyl alcohol, methylchloroisothiazolinone,

methylisothiazolinone, and phenoxyethanol.
Humectants sorbitol, glycerin, and propylene glycol

Chelating agents EDTA and its derivatives

Propellants isobutane and dimethyl ether

Others pH modifiers, fragrances, colorants, natural products

Product Forms
Sunscreens are available in a variety of dosage forms, including O/W or W/O emulsions; anhydrous systems, such as
ointments, sticks, oils, and silicone-based aerosols; wipes; and gels.

a. Emulsions are the most popular form since they offer a variety of textures. Additionally, another advantage of
emulsions is that both oil- and water-soluble ingredients can be incorporated into them. O/W emulsions are

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 Course Code: PHA 107
Cosmetic Product Development
Student’s Guide Module #5

Name:____________________________________________________________ Class number: _______

Section: ____________ Schedule: _____________________________________ Date: _______________

generally more popular as the skin feel they offer is cosmetically more appealing, and are easier to manufacture at
relatively low cost. Products with good spreadability are generally applied more uniformly to the skin, which
results in a smooth surface with low variation in SPF and a greater application thickness. W/O emulsions are
greasier and stickier; however, they have been shown to have a higher efficacy. Lower viscosity emulsions may
be packaged into nonaerosol spray containers. It can make application easier and more comfortable.

b. Sticks are available as lipsticks and lip balms as well as sticks for babies. They are suitable for smaller surfaces
areas only, such as the face and lips and for babies. However, applying them to a larger surface area, such as legs
or back of adults, may be time consuming; therefore, sticks are usually not offered for such purposes. The choice
of waxes determines the melting point of the stick and its performance on the skin. Melting point can be reduced
by the level and type of the emollients used, although firmness must be maintained in hot weather conditions.

c. Aerosol sprays are one of the most popular formulations. The multiposition spray nozzles allow for quick and
easy application by covering a relatively larger area on the body, so even hard-to-reach areas can be covered more
easily. A common problem, however, is that they are not applied appropriately and the amount of product applied
is far less than what is recommended by the FDA. Aerosol spray sunscreens should be evenly spread on the skin
and rubbed onto the skin after application (not just sprayed on). Aerosol sprays are generally alcohol-based
products containing alcohol-soluble organic UV filters. As physical sunscreens are not alcohol soluble, they are
usually not formulated into aerosol sprays or would otherwise clog the valve.

d. Ointments and oils were quite popular years ago when many people used low-SPF products and wanted a deep-
colored tan. Today, they are not as popular as other forms. Ointments and oils are greasier than W/O emulsions,
which are not desired by consumers. They are based on waxes, fats, and oils and are, therefore, more expensive
than other forms.

e. Gels provide a nice skin feel and absorb quickly; however, providing water-resistance properties for such
formulations is quite difficult. Active ingredients that can be used for this dosage form are very limited. Another
disadvantage may be irritation, if alcohol is used in the formulation

f. Wipes, which are similar to wet facial wipes are pre-moistened by the manufacturer. The formulators can place
emollients and other moisturizers onto the cloth wipes, which may, thus, provide additional benefits.

g. Cosmetic products containing sunscreens (which are considered drugs for this reason), such as facial liquid
foundation, face powder, BB creams, and CC creams, are also available today. These products are a convenient
way for women to provide photoprotection on the facial region every day. The FDA currently considers
sunscreens in the form of oils, creams, lotions, gels, butters, pastes, ointments, sticks, and sprays to be eligible for
potential inclusion in the OTC sunscreen monograph; i.e., they can be marketed without individual product
approvals.

Optimizing Product Efficacy and Consumer Acceptance

There are several strategies commonly employed to formulate sunscreens with broad-spectrum protection,
preventing both short-term and long-term effects of UV radiation. Although it seems logical to combine various UV filters
in order to achieve better UV protection, active ingredients are not the only ingredients that can modify a product’s
properties. Inactive ingredients (i.e., cosmetic ingredients) also play a significant role in optimizing the formulation for

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 Course Code: PHA 107
Cosmetic Product Development
Student’s Guide Module #5

Name:____________________________________________________________ Class number: _______

Section: ____________ Schedule: _____________________________________ Date: _______________

both efficacy and consumer acceptance. Additionally, developing and marketing new cosmetic ingredients is much easier
than those of UV filters, which also have to be approved by the FDA.
Here is a summary of commonly used strategies:
 UVB protection is not enough. Therefore, UVB filters should be combined with UVA filters in order to achieve
optimal protection. Combining physical and chemical UV filters allows for a better coverage of the UVB and UVA
spectrums, resulting in broad-spectrum protection. Extending protection to the UVA region also helps enhance the
SPF value.

 UV filters are either hydrophilic or lipophilic. When combined, a synergetic effect can be observed. This property
can be used to obtain higher efficacy against UVB and UVA radiations. As most sunscreen formulations are
emulsions, having active ingredients in both phases provides better overall efficacy, even if the product is not
uniformly distributed on the skin surface.

 The combination of organic and inorganic filters is also advantageous. Combining nano-TiO2 with chemical UV
filters often provides better UVB protection than expected, based on the SPF of each ingredient. Studies show that
as inorganic filters scatter light in the upper layers of the skin, they increase the optical path length of UV radiation
and create more opportunity for absorption by chemical filters.

 Applying photostabilizers is very important in all formulations containing chemical filters. As discussed earlier,
many chemical filters, such as avobenzone, are sensitive to UV radiation. In order to prevent photodegradation,
various photoprotective ingredients should be included in the formulations. Photostabilizers are able to quench the
excited state of the organic filters by accepting the excited state energy, thereby returning the UV-absorbing
molecule back to its ground state.

 Homogenous distribution of the active ingredients in the product is also very important. Vehicles that dissolve and
disperse the UV filters uniformly can enhance the overall UV protection by providing an even coverage on the skin,
thus better protecting against sunburn. As inorganic filters are insoluble particles, they will be in a suspended state in
the formulation. Rheology modifiers have to be used to provide an appropriate viscosity for the formulations. Ideally,
products are easy to spread; however, they do not flow off the skin surface after application but stay there and form
a uniform film.

After-Sun Preparations
After-sun preparations, otherwise known as sunburn preparations, are used to hydrate the skin and sooth irritated, red,
burnt skin. Even if no sunburn occurs, after exposure to UV radiation, the skin needs care, including soothing, smoothing,
and moisturizing.

Sunburn
Although tanning is believed to be healthy by many, any degree of tanning is a sign of skin damage, even without
reddening. Sunburn is an acute inflammatory skin reaction for excessive exposure to UV radiation, which can come from
a variety of sources, including sun, tanning beds, and phototherapy lamps. Sunburn is generally classified as a superficial
or a first-degree burn. It can cause various signs and symptoms, such as tenderness, mild pain upon touch, itching, and
redness, which may be followed by scaling. More severe cases may proceed to edema or even blistering.

Skin Care after Sun Exposure

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 Course Code: PHA 107
Cosmetic Product Development
Student’s Guide Module #5

Name:____________________________________________________________ Class number: _______

Section: ____________ Schedule: _____________________________________ Date: _______________

As a first step of treating sun-affected skin, it is usual to clean the skin with water and mild cleaners to remove any
remaining product, sweat, and dirt. Thereafter, hydration therapy can take place. Vitalization and hydration of skin are
very important after sun exposure to help the skin maintain or restore its healthy status. Most after-sun formulations are
O/W emulsions (such as lotions, creams, and sprays) and gels containing moisturizers as well as anti-inflammatory agents
and antioxidants. Gels have the advantage of an immediate cooling effect due to the high water content. The main
functional ingredients in sunburn preparations are summarized below.

 Soothing and anti-inflammatory ingredients help alleviate pain, redness, and burning. Examples include azulene
and bisabolol (from chamomile), allantoin, aloe extract, and panthenol. Witch hazel is an astringent and anti-
inflammatory agent that is commonly used.

 Cooling agents such as menthol, eucalyptus, and alcohol provide an immediate short cold sensation. They soothe
and alleviate the warm sensation and tenseness of sun-irritated skin, at least for a short period of time.

 Antioxidants help replenish the depleted antioxidant pool and/or boost the antioxidant defenses of the horny layer.
Examples include vitamin E, vitamin A, green tea extract, and pomegranate extract, among other natural
ingredients.

 Moisturizers help replace the water lost during sun exposure to improve elasticity and dryness by maintaining
moisture levels. The use of suitable moisturizing agents also prevents, or at least postpones, the unsightly features
of skin flaking and peeling. Primary ingredient types used include humectants and emollients. The formulation
should follow the general routine of the conventional formulation of emulsions and gels.

This document is the property of PHINMA EDUCATION

 Course Code: PHA 107
Cosmetic Product Development
Student’s Guide Module #5

Name:____________________________________________________________ Class number: _______

Section: ____________ Schedule: _____________________________________ Date: _______________

2) Skill Building Activities (with answer key) (15 mins + 5 mins checking)

A. Crossword Puzzle. Fill in the boxes with the appropriate words/items as described in the clues.

Across

4. solvent for aerosol sunscreen

8. acute inflammatory skin reaction for excessive exposure to UV radiation
10. UV light wavelengths are measured in _________
11. photostabilizer for avobenzone
12. UVA can penetrate this skin layer

This document is the property of PHINMA EDUCATION

 Course Code: PHA 107
Cosmetic Product Development
Student’s Guide Module #5

Name:____________________________________________________________ Class number: _______

Section: ____________ Schedule: _____________________________________ Date: _______________

13. UVB light helps in the synthesis of this vitamin (allot a blank box for the space)
15. government body that screens and check ingredients and labeling for sun care products

Down
1. UV ray that does not pass thru Earth's atmosphere
2. the deadliest form of skin cancer
3. a common UVA filter
5. UV light that majorly causes sunburn
6. product that provides photoprotection against the harmful radiation of the sun, including both UVA and UVB
radiations
7. redness that appears on the skin after sun exposure
9. sunscreen category which the main purpose is to provide photoprotection
14. pigment that makes the skin darker

Note: Check your answers against the Key to Corrections found at the end of this SAS. Write your score on your
paper.

2) Activity 4: What I Know Chart, part 2 (3 mins)

Instruction: To review what was learned from this session, please go back to Activity 1 and answer the “What I
Learned” column. Notice and reflect on any changes in your answers.

3) Activity 5: Check for Understanding (5 mins)

Multiple Choice. Write the CAPITAL LETTER of the correct answer before each number.

____1. If the MED with sunscreen is 1200 and the MED without sunscreen is 20, the SPF value would be
a. 90
b. 20
c. 30
d. 60

____2. These are the approved physical filters.

a. Zinc oxide
b. Titanium dioxide
c. All of the above
d. None of the choices

____3. Photoaging is commonly caused by _______ exposure

a. Infrared
b. UVA
c. UVB
d. UVC

____4. UVB filters should be combined with UVA filters in order to achieve optimal protection.
Photostabilizers are recommended to be added to zinc oxide.
a. Only the 1st statement is CORRECT.
b. Only the 2nd statement is CORRECT.

This document is the property of PHINMA EDUCATION

 Course Code: PHA 107
Cosmetic Product Development
Student’s Guide Module #5

Name:____________________________________________________________ Class number: _______

Section: ____________ Schedule: _____________________________________ Date: _______________

c. Both statements are CORRECT.

d. Both statements are INCORRECT.

____5. What is the mechanism of action of chemical sunscreens?

a. Reflect and scatter UV radiation
b. Absorb UV radiation and convert it to a lower energy
c. Both A and B
d. None of the choices

Note: Answers will be provided and discussed by the instructor.

C. LESSON WRAP-UP
1) Activity 6: Thinking about Learning (5 mins)
A. Work Tracker
You are done with this session! Let’s track your progress. Shade the session number you just completed.
P1 P2
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

hink about your Learning

Tell me about your thoughts in this module! What are your insights of this topic? Did you gain new
information?

FAQs
1. Is UVC harmful to humans?

2. What is the highest SPF value known?

This document is the property of PHINMA EDUCATION

 Course Code: PHA 107
Cosmetic Product Development
Student’s Guide Module #5

Name:____________________________________________________________ Class number: _______

Section: ____________ Schedule: _____________________________________ Date: _______________

KEY TO CORRECTIONS
Activity 3. Skill Building Activities. Key to Corrections.
A. Crossword Puzzle

Across

4. solvent for aerosol sunscreen (ALCOHOL)

8. acute inflammatory skin reaction for excessive exposure to UV radiation (SUNBURN)
10. UV light wavelengths are measured in _________ (NANOMETER)
11. photostabilizer for avobenzone (OCTOCRYLENE)
12. UVA can penetrate this skin layer (DERMIS)
13. UVB light helps in the synthesis of this vitamin (allot a blank box for the space) (VITAMIN D)
15. government body that screens and check ingredients and labeling for sun care products (FDA)

Down
1. UV ray that does not pass thru Earth's atmosphere (UVC)
2. the deadliest form of skin cancer (MELANOMA)
3. a common UVA filter (AVOBENZONE)
5. UV light that majorly causes sunburn (UVB)
6. product that provides photoprotection against the harmful radiation of the sun, including both UVA and UVB
radiations (SUNSCREEN)
7. redness that appears on the skin after sun exposure (ERYTHEMA)
9. sunscreen category which the main purpose is to provide photoprotection (PRIMARY)
14. pigment that makes the skin darker (MELANIN)

This document is the property of PHINMA EDUCATION