AINSLEY CUT-OUT BACK TEE
CUTTING AND SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
Skill Level: Beginner
Sizes Included: XXS – 5XL
Design Features: relaxed fit, drop shoulder, cut-out back detail
Fabric Recommendation: KNIT fabrics (jersey, cotton or rayon blend)
Materials and Tools
Fabric of your choice. This design is intended for KNIT fabric (jersey, cotton, rayon blend etc.). Because this design is
loose fit, you can also use woven fabric (make sure the binding are cut on bias if using woven fabric).
(Optional) Fusible stay tape to reinforce the neckline and keyhole edge.
Matching thread
Sewing machine
Ballpoint or stretch sewing needles
Scissors or rotary cutter, Measuring tape, Pins or clips, Iron
Optional: Serger for clean seam finishes
Fabric Yardage Requirements
Because most fabric will shrink after the first time washing and ironing, it is necessary to pre-wash your fabric. This does not
only stop future shrinkage but also removes excess dyes and chemicals from the production process.
The estimation is for non-directional, pre-washed, pre-shrunk fabric.
Size XXS XS S M L XL XXL 3XL 4XL 5XL
cm 100 100 100 100 150 150 155 155 160 160
Fabric requirement
(140cm/55" fabric width)
in 40 40 40 40 60 60 62 62 64 64
For fabric of different width, the amount needed will vary depending on the selected pattern size, the width, and design of
the fabric you plan to use. If you want to be sure, print all the paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric you plan
to use. Measure how much fabric you will need. Don't forget to account for pieces that need to be cut multiple times and
pieces that are cut on the fold.
Preparation
1. Printing and Assembling the Pattern:
Print the pattern at 100% scale. Make sure to check the test square/ruler to ensure the measurements are correct.
Detailed printing guide: [Link]
Align the pages according to the guide and tape them together.
2. Cutting the Fabric:
Lay out your pieces according to straight of grain as marked on the pattern pieces. Some pieces will be cut on the
fold, the corresponding edge will then be marked with a fold mark. Kindly pay attention to notes regarding type of
fabric and quantity of required pieces on a block. For example, [Lower Skirt, cut 1 on fold] on a pattern piece means
that you need to cut 1 piece on the fold, or [Collar, cut 2 main fabric + 1 fusible interfacing] means you need to cut
2 mirrored pieces of main fabric and 1 piece of fusible interfacing.
Place the sewing pattern pieces on the fabric and use weights to keep them from shifting. Mark the outlines with a
water-soluble or heat-erasable marker. Make sure to mark and transfer all notches and other design features such
as pleats, pocket position etc. from the pattern piece onto your fabric. When sewing the garment, pay attention to
notches, they must match up.
Pattern pieces
Front: cut 1 piece on the fold
Back: cut 2 mirrored pieces
Front Neck Binding: cut 1 piece
Back Neck Binding: cut 2 pieces
Back Keyhole Binding: cut 1 piece
Seam allowances
Hem: 2cm (3/4”)
All other seams: 1cm (3/8”)
Seam allowances have been included in the pattern pieces. Please cut as-is and use the above-mentioned seam
allowances to construct the garment.
Sewing Instructions
Finish front neckline with binding
Stabilizing neckline, using one of the following method:
+ Run a staystitching line along the neckline, or
+ Apply fusible stay tape along the neckline, on the WRONG
side of fabric.
Place the Front Neck Binding and the Front piece right sides
together, matching the neckline.
Stitch the neckline using a 1cm (3/8”) seam allowance.
Trim seam allowances down to 0.5cm (1/4”).
(Optional) Understitch seam allowances to binding.
Fold the binding to wrong side of fabric, so that the raw edge
of binding matches the neckline seam.
Fold the binding again so that all it is on the wrong side of
fabric, and all raw edges are enclosed and invisible from the
outside.
Pin in position.
Stitch the binding in place, try to stay as close as possible to
the folded edge of the binding.
Trim off excess length of binding if needed.
Sew the Back piece
Place two Back pieces right sides together, match the center
back seam and stitch.
Neaten seam allowances together and press toward either
side.
Finish the back neckline and keyhole with binding
Use the same method as finishing the front neckline to finish the
back neckline and back keyhole.
Sew the main garment
Line up the shoulder of the Back piece so that the narrower
shoulder is on top of the wider shoulder as shown.
Baste the narrow shoulder to the wide shoulder.
Place Front and Back pieces right sides together, matching the
shoulder and side seams and stitch.
Neaten seam allowances together and press toward the front
piece.
Finish hem and sleeve
Press the 1cm (3/8”) sleeve hem and 2cm (3/4”) bottom hem
allowance to the inside of the garment and pin to secure
position.
Topstitch the hem close to the folded edge using twin machine
needle.
Stitch from the right side of the fabric at a straight stitch setting
with two upper threads and one bobbin thread. The upper
threads form parallel lines of stitching while the bobbin thread
forms zigzag stitching and keeps the edge stretchy.
Finishing Touches
Press all seams for a polished look.
Trim any loose threads.
Try on your garment and make any adjustments as needed.
Credits
Pattern design by Tiana’s Closet Sewing Patterns.
This pattern is intended for personal use only. Redistribution or resale of the pattern, in either digital or physical form, is strictly
prohibited.
Small businesses may sell finished products made using this pattern, provided the items are hand-made and produced in
small quantities. In such cases, proper credit must be given to the pattern designer. The credit should include a statement
such as: "Pattern designed by Tiana’s Closet Sewing Patterns.”
Mass production of products made with this pattern requires a separate commercial licensing agreement.