Dry Process:
Dry process is an important factor in garments washing. Garments get fashionable look
by applying dry process on it. Dry process is mainly done by hand or mechanically. Dry
process section maintains a process flow-chart, which is discussed below.
Flow Chart of Dry Process in Garments Washing:
Process Procedure
Whisker It is the first process of dry process section in garments washing. Whisker is done
with the help of sharp edge emery paper rolled on fine wood stick or pasted on
plastic material.
Scrapping Removing color from the surface of denim is called scrapping. Here, fabric is
scrapped with different tools in order to get an used effect.
Tagging Tagging is done by using swift tag machine. In this process, Garments is folded
three or four times and tagged through folds. Then the garments is washed and
dried. Permanent fold appears after removal of tag pin. In this case, the inner of
the fold is dark due to less exposure of rubbing and chemicals. Faded effect
comes on the folded parts.
In order to achieve favorite vintage look, different destroying processes such as
grinding, abrasion, hole, scratching and needle effect are used in dry process
Destroy/Tearing
section.
P.P Spray P.P means potassium per manganite. P.P sprayed onto desired areas of garments
and P.P oxidizes indigo color. This process can be done before or after garments
washing process. Here, at first have to sprayed P.P, then it should be neutralized
to get final effect.
3D Here, resin chemical is used on whiskered areas to make the effect permanent.
At first, resin is sprayed all over of the whiskered garments with spray gun, then
whiskers are designed by folding the fabric. Finally resin sprayed garments are
put into oven and dry at high temperature for 30minutes.
Whisker Process:
Whisker is the first process and one of the most important process in denim dry process.
Different whisker pattern is developed according to the design and the garment is scrubbed
over the prepared pattern with abrasive paper or emery paper to get the whiskered effect or
fading effect.
Whisker can be made in different ways. But the
top most ways are as follows.
A. By whisker pattern
B. By Manual hand scrap.
C. By using laser Machine.
A . By whisker pattern: Different process can be used to make whisker pattern . One process is
given below:
1. At first the design is selected then a white poly is placed on the garment.
2. Marking the design with marker with seam line
3. Taking a rubber board and replace the marked poly on the rubber board
4. Engraving the marked rubber board area of whisker by cutter or blade
5. Whisker pattern is made
6. The pattern then inserted into the
denim garments
7. Scrape over the engraved area
and the whiskered design is
created.
After making the whisker pattern , the
board is placed inside the denim
garments and the emery paper or
abrasive paper is scrubbed over the
engraved pattern.
B . Manual Hand Scraping : Manual process is also used to bring the whisker pattern design on
the denim garments. Apparatus is used for hand scraping is given below :
1. Pattern
2. Emery paper or abrasive paper
3. Chalk powder
Abrasive paper grading :
1. P – 400 ( very rough surface for hard fabric )
2. P – 800 ( medium rough surface for medium hard fabric )
3. P – 1000 ( less rough surface for soft fabric )
Manual hand scraping process is
given below :
1. First the design is observed
then draw the design with a
chalk on the denim garments
carefully
2. Scrape on the drawn line of
the design by the abrasive
paper thus the design is
created.
Whisker Process:
C . Using Laser Machine : Laser machine is used
to make whisker or burning effect on the
denim garments. This process is done after the
washing process. Different intensity of light is
used to get the desired design. Laser is
produced by the combination of co2 and DC
current.
The process is given below :
1. First, the whisker design is made by
Photoshop or illustrator
2. Design is transferred to laser machine
3. The intensity of laser light is selected
4. Laser light is imposed on the denim garments to get the design
5. After the wash the burned indigo is removed and the whisker is visible
Sand Blasting:
Sand blasting is the process of scrubbing off the garment by blowing high-speed air
mixed with very fine particles of sand. This is a very successful and most widely used
process for fashion articles. When the surface area of the garment is blasted, white
cotton appears beneath the blasted area and the effect appearing is very similar to the
worn out jeans. Sand blast provides a very uniform result, which cannot be achieved
with its alternates. Its specialty is the merging effect that is blended with such a beauty
that it has no difference with natural effect.
High pressure of air produces a powerful backward thrust to operator so it is always
recommended to fix the gun in appropriate stands rather than placing it on shoulders or
using it with bare hands. On some fabrics sand blasting is not successful for it covers the
characteristics of fabric. Especially in fabrics, which are famous for slob patterns it
flattens the look. Specified areas for sand blasting are front thigh, back seat, back panel
near bottom or front panel around knee. Sometime full body blasting is also done for
giving a unique look to fabric. Hot spots may be designed for more real look on front
knees or back seat by intense blasting in these areas.
Procedure of Sand Blasting:
Individual garment to be processed is taken on a table.
Air compressor is started and pressure to be maintained between 3 – 4 kg/[Link].
Air compressor then stores air in the machine cylinder. Aluminum sand or silicon sand,
Al2(SiO4)3, is then taken in the chamber of the blasting machine.
Sand and compressed air are then sprayed over the garments at specific points at 10-
200 angle by hand spray pipe.
Sands pass into the machine by regulating system.
The machine comprises a blasting regulator and a hand regulator to control the amount
of sand and compressed air respectively.
The angle of sand blowing is very important. Higher the blowing angle, higher the fading
effect and higher the risk of fabric damage.
Fading is done on pre-marked areas.
Sandblasting is a hazardous technique and therefore, the area should be isolated from
other working areas.
Handling of sandblasting gun is risky therefore, operators should use safety equipment's
like hand gloves, mask and gown. Production/hour/gun varies from 25 – 45 garments
depending upon the degree of fading or extent of fading to be attained.
The faded garments are cleaned by shaking manually. After sandblasting, garments are
washed and the technique is being followed may be normal, bleach or bio-stone
Grinding:
Grinding is the destruction of edges or the worn out
effect on the edge of the garments. If the garments
has two time wash that time we will wash it after first
wash to avoid the damages of garments. It is often
done on hem, pocket edge, west belt , pocket opening
and pocket flap of the garments. It brings old look
appearance and creates high fashion garments.
Grinding machine is used to destroy the edges . For
grinding small size stones are used in the grinding machine.
Overall Crinkle:
The full garments is washed with resin and after hydro-
extracting the full garments is dried then special effect
is produced. For the effect , the garment is tied with
thread or net or rope which resin treatment. Overall
crinkle is done the all types of fabrics like denim , twill ,
canvas , poplin , knit , viscose , nylon etc. This is done
after all types of dry and wet process. This is very
popular and widely used in denims now a days.
Overall Crinkle:
Resin solution prepared:
1. Resin 20%
2. Water 80%
Machine / Apparatus / Requirements for overall crinkle process:
1. Washing machine
2. Trolley
3. Hydro extractor
4. Curing machine
5. Tie, rope, thread
Overall Crinkle process is given below:
1. Garments are tied with rope, tie , thread
2. Then, garments are loaded into the washing machine with solution
3. Let, temperature is 50-degree c and keep the machine running for 10-15 minutes.
4. Then, unload the garments from washing machine to trolley and start hydro extracting
5. Untie or cut the threads, ropes
6. Put those garments into curing machine and set the machine at 140- 160 degree c for
40-60 minutes
7. When the time exceeds, machine automatically becomes off
8. Then , all the garments are hanged by hanger for 10-15 minutes for cooling
After those processes the garments are checked for quality and delivered.
Potassium permanganate spray (P.P Spray):
Potassium permanganate spray is done on jeans to take a bright effect on sand blast
area. One important thing about potassium permanganate spray is, this is usually a
sporting process to increase the effect of sand blast. Potassium permanganate solution
is sprayed on blasted area of jeans garment with the help of normal spray gun. This
potassium permanganate spray appears pink on garment when fresh and turns to
muddy brown on drying. The garment is hanged in open to dry after potassium
permanganate spray and when the potassium permanganate turns its colors completely
then it is considered to ready for next process. It is always followed by neutralization
process. Sodium Meta bi-sulphate is most commonly used neutralizer. A number of
products are available in market for neutralization process like sodium Meta bisulfate
selected on the bases of effect required on blasted area.
Potassium permanganate sprays concentrations ranges from .25 gm. per liter to 15.00
grams per liter depending to required results and fabric types. Usually indigo died
fabrics are treated with low concentrations whereas Black Sulfur Fabric requires high
concentrations to treat with.
Process of P.P Spray:
Potassium permanganate spray in best is done in specific spray booths, where rubber
dummies are installed for holding garments. Garments are mounted on the dummies
and air is filled so the garment is full fit exposed. Specific dummies are used for different
sizes and styles, like for kids, men’s, trousers, jackets, shirts etc. The booths are fitted
with proper air exhaust system. This system leads the spray to treatment room where
the chemical mixed air is usually passed through the water showers. Potassium
permanganate is dissolved in water and the clean air is blown to open. Shower water is
further treated with mild quantities of neutralizer before adding to main drain. But
where the potassium permanganate spray is used in low concentrations then there is
now need to treat shower water. This mild potassium permanganate mixed water is
rather useful for water reservoirs to keep the water clean and germs free.
Garments are mounted on air-filled rubber dummies and chemical is sprayed on blasted
areas. The variables in spray process are as follows:
• Distance of spray gun to garment: Less distance will give more defined and sharp effect
whereas distant spray will result in more mild and merged effect. Distance ranges from
one foot to two and a half feet.
• Air to water ratio of gun: This is to be set very carefully. Low air pressure possibly will
through KMnO4 drops on garment resulting in bright white spots whereas high pressure
will produce very low bright effect spray effect to areas where it is not required.
• Potassium Permanganate Solution Concentration: This will control the extent of
brightness
Potassium Permanganate Sponging/ Brushing:
o PP Spray is being done on denim garments to achieve local abraded area to appear
whiter than back ground indigo color shade. This can be applied by sponges dipped in to
PP Solution & rubbed on desired area followed by neutralization in wet process. This
process can be done in rigid after doing hand scrape or in the middle of the wash. Doing
after enzyme or bleach cycle will give more natural & white effect that doing in rigid.
There are many additives can be added in order to achieve desired intensity and look
o In usual, it is done with regular paint brushes or the brushes are modified by cutting
hairs in different shapes to produce new styles. Rather towels, sponges, straw bunches
or other objects are also used to create effects. What it is seen, is that most merging
and beautiful effects are created with towel. Towel dipped in solution are drawn over
the garment very lightly. This produces random effect and looks great with dark washes
in contrast.
o This process is very complicated & needs highly skilled operators to execute it followed
by immediate neutralization.
Procedure of P.P Sponging/ Brushing:
Prepare Potassium Permanganate solution.(P.P 20%,water 80%).
Take the solution in a tray or bowl.
Take a rubber board.
Then take a jeans trouser & place the rubber board inside the leg panel of the trouser.
Now place the trouser with rubber board on a flat table & sponged or rubbed P.P on
apparel surface.
Then color will faded.
After this process wet process essential (detergent/bleach/enzyme wash).
Destroying:
One of the most popular distressing effects currently , ‘Destruction’ is an art which make denim
look unique & used. To make destruction pen type of stone tools being used in mid of wash
process to apply on desired area. It can also be achieved by cutting it thru knife the warp yarns
& keep the weft yarn as is to show white thread. Holes also can be made by cutting weft &
warp yarns. These are all manual processes & every garment
will look unique & different than others.
Destroying:
Different types of machine used for destroy the garments.
Such as-
Grinding Machine
Emery Cloth.
Hacksaw Blade.
Needle.
Knife etc.
Process of Destruction:
We can make holes in jeans by overdoing different methods. The trick is to make the
holes look natural. Grind away at the fabric slowly. Try not to localize the worn area,
spread it with diminishing wear the further we get from the intended hole.
The area around the hole should be worn out as well as bleached to further blend the
hole with the surrounding fabric. "Finish" the edges with a pumice stone or sandpaper
dampened in bleach. Also dampening a sponge with bleach and applying it to the outer
edges of the hole will add to the natural worn look.
Ripped jeans are a bit different. The rip is not necessarily from wear, and should not
look the same as a worn out hole.
It is important that what types of look we want to see on our denim. It is recommended
to use a sharp pocket knife. Be careful, they are very sharp. Rub the blade of the knife
perpendicular to the line of the rip that we want. Continue until we create a slit, and
then fray the edges, exposing the threads that are perpendicular to the rip. Do this until
the hole is the size that we want and the edges are fuzzy. A wash and a dry will further
mess up the edge. To some extent this will control further fraying
To reinforce this newly created hole, turn your pants inside out and place an adequately
cut piece of fabric around it and sew it. An iron on will work as well, but the stitching,
done either by hand or with a sewing machine, will make it look much better.
It is preferred that not too many holes, 3 to 5 should be enough. The current trend,
however, seems to be for smaller holes
Tagging:
Tagging is done at unwashed condition
of garments.
It is done by tag gun or plastic staple
machine
Manually by needle and thread
After wash the effect is visual
Sometimes it creates hole on the edge
Ozone Wash:
Ozone machine coverts the oxygen gas into the ozone gas. The garments to be washed thrown
to the ozone machine and run the machine. After some time, the garments is checked whether
if matches with the desired effect or not. Finally, effect is visible
Important definition:
Emery paper is a type of abrasive paper or sandpaper, that can be used to abrade (remove
material from) surfaces or mechanically finish a surface. Operations include debarring, polishing,
paint removal, corrosion removal, sizing, etc. This is accomplished by moving the abrasive-
coated paper, with some pressure, against the object being processed. Abrasion may be
performed by hand, electrically powered, or air powered equipment.