GSM Calculation

GSM means the weight in gram per square meter of [Link] is a very important parameter
for specified a certain quality of knitted fabric. The production of knitted fabric is calculated in
weight. The GSM cutter is very popular and easy usable GSM testing instrument used in most
knitted factory. But the construction of this cutter is very simple. It is circular disk of 100 square
cm area with sharp blade attached to its edge. So 100 square cm of fabric can easily cut by it and
weighted at the electric balance to get GSM reading.

There are two formulas for calculating the GSM of a knitted fabric

First formula is as under:

Course per inch X Stitch length X 39.37 X 39.37 X Tex

GSM = ----------------------------------------------------------------------
1000 X 1000

WPI X CPI X SL(mm)

GSM = ----------------------------- X 0.9155
Count(Ne)

CALCULATION OF WALES PER INCH (WPI):

We calculated the number of Wales in 10 inch fabric unraveling the yarn. Then we divide the no of
total Wales by 10 inch to getting the Wales per inch.

CALCULATION OF COURSE PER INCH (CPI):

We calculated the number of course in five inch with the help of counting glass and needle. Then we
divide the total no of course by five inch to getting the course per inch.

MEASUREMENT OF STITCH LENGTH (SL mm):

Stitch length is theoretically a single length of yarn which includes one needle loop and adjacent
needle loops on either side of it. Loop exits in course in course length and it is that which influence
fabric dimension and other properties including weight.

In order to determine the stitch length, we count 100 no Wales or stitch and count its length by
hanging the yarn on the stitch counter. The reading is found in mm unit.
MEASUREMENT OF YARN COUNT:
We have fallowed a different way to find out the count of the yarn. At first we unravel a considerable
no yarn from the fabric. Then we measured the total length of the yarn and measured the weight of
that no of yarn. From these weights, we find out the count of the yarn.

The equation we followed is as follow:

N x L x 453.6
Count = ----------------
Wt x 36 x 840
Where,

N = number of yarn in bundle.

L = length of yarn.
Wt = weight of yarn.

Another formula is the following:

Ks x Tex
GSM = ---------------------
Stitch length (mm)

Where,
Ks is a constant. Its value is different for different fabric structure and fabric type. Ks is calculated
and estimated as below:

GSM x Stitch length

Ks = -----------------------------
Tex
 Basic Structures of Knitted Fabrics

Basic Structure of Knitted Fabric are:

1. Plain
2. Rib
3. Purl
4. Interlock

Plain structure:
Plain is produced by the needles knitting as a single set, drawing the loops away from the
technical back and towards the technical face side of the fabric

Features:

1. Used only a single set needle

2. Simplest and most economical production

3.40% potential recovery after stretching

4. Probability of curling yarn

5. Technical face is smooth

6. Technical back is rough

7. If yarn breaks needle loop successively un-mesh down a wale and sinker lop un-mesh up a
wale. This structures breakdown is termed ‘Laddering’

8. Plain can be unroved.

9. In plain fabric, unroving can be prevented by binding off.

Plain Circular latch needle machine:
1. Single jersey fabric is produced by the plain circular latch needle machine
2. One set of latch needle is used.
3. Latch needle, Cylinder and sinker ring revolve through the stationary knitting cam System
4. Stationary yarn feeders are situated at regular intervals around the circumference of the
cylinder.

Rib structure:
The structure which requires two sets of needles operating in between each other so that the wale
of face stitching and wale of revere stitching knitted on each side of the fabric is called rib
structure.

Features
1. It is normally knitted with two set s of latch needles.
2. Rib has vertical cord appearance.
3. 1X1 rib has the appearance of the technical face of the plain fabric.
4. Relaxed 1X1 rib theoretically twice as thick and ½ the width of an equivalent plain fabric.
5. It is more expensive fabric produce than plain
6. It can be unroved from the end knitted last by the free loop
7. IT is a heavier structure
8. It has no curing tendency
9. Rib structures are elastic, from fitting and retain warmth better than plain structure
10. There are many type of rib structure such as 6X3 rib or derby rib, 1X1 rib or English rib, 2X2
rib or Swiss rib,

Uses:
Rib is suitable particularly for the extremities of articles such as tops of socks, cuff, sleeves or rib
boarders of garments and strolling and strapping for cardigans. It is knitted at the top of plain
knit socks and gloves
Difference between single jersey and double jersey fabric:

Single jersey (Plain) Double Jersey(Rib)

Single jersey is produced by one set of Rib stitch is produced by two sets of
needle. needle.
Face and back side appearance is different. Face and back side appearance are same.
Plain fabric has curling tendency No curling tendency
Plain fabric is unbalanced Rib fabric is balanced
Less elastic property More elastic property
Thickness and weight is half of rib fabric Thickness and weight is twice of rib fabric
Face side contain only face loop and back Face side contain both face and reverse
side contains only reverse loops or all are loop and back side same or one face and
face otherwise all are back loop. one back loop.
It has laddering problem It has no laddering problem
Requires not too finer yarn. Requires finer yarn.
Less expensive More expensive than single
 Interlock fabric features:
(1) Interlock has the technical face of plain fabric on both sides but its smooth surface cannot be
stretched out to reveal the reverse meshed loop wales because the wales on each side are exactly
opposite to each other and are locked together.
(2) Each interval pattern row requires two feeder courses, each with a separate yarn that knits
separate alternate needles. Thus odd feeders will produce alternate wales of loops on each side
and even feeders will produce the other wales.
(3) It is a balanced, smooth, stable structure that lies flat without curl.
(4) It will not unrove from the end knitted first but it is thicker, heavier, and narrower than rib of
equivalent gauge.
(5) When two different colored yarns are used, horizontal effects are produced. If the same color is
knitted at two adjacent feeders then also horizontal effects will be produced.

Definition of Purl Stitch in Knitting:

In securing the previous stitch in a wale, the next stitch can pass through the previous loop either
from below or above. In the case of the former, the stitch is denoted as a knit stitch; In the case
of the latter, as a purl stitch. The two stitches are related in that a knit stitch seen from one side of
the fabric appears as a purl stitch on the other side.

Appearance of Stitches:

The two types of stitches have a different visual effect; the knit stitches look like “V”‘s stacked
vertically, whereas the purl stitches look like a wavy horizontal line across the fabric. Patterns
and pictures can be created in knitted fabrics by using knit and purl stitches as “pixels”; however,
such pixels are usually rectangular, rather than square, depending on the gauge of the knitting.
Individual stitches, or rows of stitches, may be made taller by drawing more yarn into the new
loop (an elongated stitch) which is the basis for uneven knitting: a row of tall stitches may
alternate with one or more rows of short stitches for an interesting visual effect. Short and tall
stitches may also alternate within a row, forming a fish-like oval pattern.

In knitting two courses of red yarn illustrating two basic fabric types, the lower red course is knit
into the white row below it and is itself knit on the next row; this produces stockinette stitch. The
upper red course is purled into the row below and then is knit, consistent with garter stitch.

In the simplest knitted fabrics, all of the stitches are knit or purl; these fabrics are denoted as
stockinette and reverse stockinette, respectively. Vertical stripes (ribbing) are possible by having
alternating wales of knit and purl stitches; for example, a common choice is 2×2 ribbing, in
which two wales of knit stitches are followed by two wales of purl stitches, etc.
Horizontal striping (welting) is also possible, by alternating rows of knit and purl stitches; the
simplest of these is garter stitch, so-called because its great elasticity made it well-suited for
garters. Checkerboard patterns (basketweave) are also possible, the smallest of which is known
as seed stitch: the stitches alternate between knit and purl in every wale and along every row.

Fabrics in which the number of knit and purl stitches are not the same, such as stockinette, have a
tendency to curl; by contrast, those in which knit and purl stitches are arranged symmetrically
(such as ribbing, garter stitch or seed stitch) tend to lie flat and drape well.

Wales of purl stitches have a tendency to recede, whereas those of knit stitches tend to come
forward. Thus, the purl wales in ribbing tend to be invisible, since the neighboring knit wales
come forward. Conversely, rows of purl stitches tend to form an embossed ridge relative to a row
of knit stitches. This is the basis of shadow knitting, in which the appearance of a knitted fabric
changes when viewed from different directions.

Typically, a new stitch is passed through a single unsecured (“active”) loop, thus lengthening
that wale by one stitch. However, this need not be so; the new loop may be passed through an
already secured stitch lower down on the fabric, or even between secured stitches (a dip stitch).

Depending on the distance between where the loop is drawn through the fabric and where it is
knitted, dip stitches can produce a subtle stippling or long lines across the surface of the fabric,
e.g., the lower leaves of a flower. The new loop may also be passed between two stitches in the
present row, thus clustering the intervening stitches; this approach is often used to produce a
smocking effect in the fabric. The new loop may also be passed through two or more previous
stitches, producing a decrease and merging wales together. The merged stitches need not be from
the same row; for example, a tuck can be formed by knitting stitches together from two different
rows, producing a raised horizontal welt on the fabric.

Not every stitch in a row need be knitted; some may be left as it is and knitted on a subsequent
row. This is known as slip-stitch knitting. The slipped stitches are naturally longer than the
knitted ones; for example, a stitch slipped for one row before knitting would be roughly twice as
tall as its knitted counterparts. This can produce interesting visual effects, although the resulting
fabric is more rigid, because the slipped stitch “pulls” on its neighbors and is less deformable.

Slip-stitch knitting plays an important role in mosaic knitting, an important technique in hand-
knitting patterned fabrics; mosaic-knit fabrics tend to be stiffer than patterned fabrics produced
by other methods such as Fair-Isle knitting.

In some cases, a stitch may be deliberately left unsecured by a new stitch and its wale allowed
disassembling. This is known as drop-stitch knitting. And produces a vertical ladder of see-
through holes in the fabric, corresponding to where the wale had been.
The stitches on the right are right-plaited, whereas the stitches on the left are left-plaited. Within
limits, an arbitrary number of twists may be added to new stitches, whether they be knit or purl.
Here, a single twist is illustrated, with left-plaited and right-plaited stitches on the left and right,
respectively.
 Knitting Needles

The fundamental element in construction of knitted fabrics is the knitting needles. During yarn
feeding, the hook is opened to release the retained old loop and to receive the new loop which is
then enclosed in the hook. The new loop is then drawn by the hook through the old loop which
slides on the outside of the bridge of the enclosed hook. All needles must therefore have same
method of closing the Knitting needle hook to retain the new loop and exclude the old loop.

Types of Knitting Needles:

There are three types of Needle. These are:

1. Latch Needle
2. Bearded Needle
3. Compound Needle.

Latch Needle

Characteristics & Uses of Latch Needle:

Latch Needle is mostly used needle in the knitting industry today:

Latch Needle Characteristics:

1. Most widely used in weft knitting.

2. More expensive needle than the bearded needle.
3. Self acting or loop controlled.
4. Work at any angle.
5. Needle Depth determines the loop length.
6. Variation of the height of reciprocating produces knit, tuck or miss stitch.
Uses of Latch Needle: Latch needle are widely used in –

1. Double Cylinder Machine,

2. Flat Bar Machine,
3. Single Jersey Circular Knitting Machine,
4. Double Jersey Circular Knitting Machine.

Features & different parts of a Latch Needle

1. The Hook: The hook which draws and returns the new loop.
2. The slot or Saw Cut: This slot receives the latch blade.
3. The Cheeks or Slot Walls: It is either punched or riveted to fulcrum the latch blade.
4. The Rivet: The rivet which may be plain or threaded. This has been dispensed with on most
plated metal needles by pinching in the slot walls to retain the latch blades.
5. The latch blade: This latch blade locates the latch in the needle.
6. The latch spoon: The latch spoon is an extension of blade and bridges the gap between the
hook and stem.
7. The stem: The stem of latch needle carries the loop in the clearing on rest position.
8. The Butt: Butt of latch needle enables the needle to be reciprocated.
9. The Tail: The tail is an extension below the butt giving additional support to the needle and
keeping the needle in its trick
Compound Needle: The needle which has two separately controlled parts:- the hook & the
closing element( latch, tongue) is called compound needle. It has a short, smooth & simple action
without latch or bearded needle. It is patent at first in 1856. It is mainly used in warp knitting
machine. There are two types of compound needle in current use:
a) Tubular pipe needle. b) Open stem pusher type needle.

The compound needle consists of two separately controlled parts:1. The Stem, 2. The sliding
latch.

The basic knitting action of a needle:

The loop formation process on latch needle is divided into ten operations.

The operations are stated as below:

1. Clearing.
2. Laying.
3. Under lapping.
4. Pressing.
5. Landing.
6. Joining.
7. Casting off.
(8) & (9) loop forming & sinking.
(10) Loop draw off.
CLEARING: The process of loop formation is started by the clearing operations. Its aim is to
draw the old loop behind the needle latch. Clearing is affected during needle lift. The old loop is
retained by the beak of the sinker shifted to the cylinder centre so as to avoid its displacement
together with the needle.

LAYING: In the course of needle downward motion, the hook taken of yarn coming from the
yarn guide & effects it’s laying as not to further hamper the loop forming process.

UNDER LAPPING: Further movement of yarn just laid & its forwarding under the needle
hook is called under lapping or drawing.

PRESSING: The aim of the pressing is to close the needle have with the yarn laid in it. When
the needle lowers, its latch contacts the old loop lying near the knock off plane & retained from
lowering by the sinker chain. The old loop interacts with the latch & closes it.

LANDING: The essence of this operation consists in shafting the old loop on the closed latch.
The landing operation in latch needle m/cs begins simultaneously with pressing.

JOINING: At joining the new yarn comes in contact with the old loop. Joining is accomplished
simultaneously with the begging of casting off.

CASTING OFF: The casting off operation consists in the retreat of the old loop from the needle
hook.

LOOP FORMING & SINKING: At this operation, the new loop is drawn through the old loop.
So, the new course is produced.

LOOP DRAW OFF: In this stage loop is drawn.

 Knitting Cam & Sinker

The angular knitting cam acts directly onto the butts of needles or other elements to produce
individual or serial movement in the tricks of latch needle of weft knitting m/c. Two
arrangements exist there:

1. Revolving Cylinder M/cs: The needle butt pass through the stationary cam system and the
fabric hanging from the needles revolves with them.

2. Reciprocating Cam carriage flat M/cs: The cams with the yarn feed pass across stationary
needle beds.

Cam is a third primary knitting element which converts rotary machines drive into a suitable
reciprocating motion to give drive to other elements of the needles.

They are two types: - 1. Engineering cam &

2. Knitting cam.

Engineering cam: These types of cam are used in all kinds of machines to give motion to its
other elements when the movement cannot be given by the wheel or other element. In knitting
machines this types of cam are used generally in full fashioning & warp knitting machine.
They may be elliptical, heart or unequally shaped.

Knitting cam: The knitting cam is an element which acts directly on to the butt of needles or
other elements to produce individual or seriation movement. Knitting cams are attached either
individually or in unit form to cam plate depending upon machine design.

Two arrangements exist: a) Revolving cylinder machine.

b) Reciprocating cam carriage flat machine.

Revolving cylinder machine following cam are used:

1. Knit cam: This cam helps to form knit loop.

2. Miss cam: This cam helps to form miss loop.
3. Tuck cam: This cam helps to form tuck loop.

Reciprocating cam carriage flat machine following cam are used:

1. Raising cam
2. Gaurd cam
3. Stitch cam
4. Tuck cam
Design Cams of Weft Knitting Machine

There are three types of design cams used in weft knitting machine:
a) Knit Cam
b) Tuck Cam
c) Miss Cam

Sinker:
The sinker is the second primary knitting element. It is a thin metal plate with an individual or
collective action approximately at right angles from the hook side between adjoining needles. It
may perform one or more of the following functions depending upon the machines knitting
action & consequent sinker shape & movement:

a) Loop formation.
b) Holding down.
c) Knocking over.
Loop forming sinker: On bearded needle weft knitting machines of the straight bar frame &
sinker wheel type the main purpose of a sinker is to sink or kink the newly laid yarn into a loop,
as its forward edge or catch advances between the two adjoining needles.

Holding down sinker: A second & more common function of sinkers on modern machines is to
hold down the old loops from their hooks.

Knocking over sinker: On latch needle machines & tricot warp knitting machines the upper
surface or belly of sinker supports the old loop as the new lop is drawn through it.

Topic: Faults, Causes & their Remedy in Knitted fabric:

Circular knitting is one of the easiest and fastest ways (20 million stitches per minute) of
producing cloth and textile pieces such as garments, socks and gloves. Fabric faults, or defects,
are responsible for nearly 85% of the defects found by the garment industry. An automated
defect detection and identification system enhances the product quality and results in improved
productivity to meet both customer demands and to reduce the costs associated with off-quality.
Higher production speeds make the timely detection of fabric defects more important than ever.
Presently, inspection is done manually when a significant amount of fabric is produced; the
fabric roll is removed from circular knitting machine and then sent to an inspection frame. An
optimal solution would be to automatically inspect fabric as it is being produced and to
encourage maintenance personnel to prevent production of defects or to change process
parameters automatically and consequently improve product quality.

1. Hole Mark
Causes:
 Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.
 During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook.
 If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and density.
 Badly knot or splicing.
 Yarn feeder badly set.
Remedies:
 Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.
 Use proper count of yarn.
 Correctly set of yarn feeder.
 Knot should be given properly.
2. Needle Mark
Causes:
 When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics.
  If a needle or needle hook slightly bends then needle mark comes on the fabrics.
Remedies:
 Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.
3. Sinker Mark
Causes:
 When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a new loop as a result
sinker mark comes.
 If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.

Remedies:
 Sinker should be changed.

4. Star Mark
Causes:
 Yarn tension variation during production.
 Buckling of the needle latch.
 Low G.S.M fabric production.

Remedies:
 Maintain same Yarn tension during production.
 Use good conditioned needles.

5. Drop Stitches
Causes:
 Defective needle.
 If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the needle
hook.
 Take-down mechanism too loose.
 Insufficient yarn tension.
 Badly set yarn feeder.
 Remedies:
 Needle should be straight & well.
 Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.
 Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.
 Yarn tension should be proper.

6. Oil stain

Causes:
 When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a line.

Remedies:
 Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.
 Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.

7. Rust stain
Causes:
 If any rust on the machine parts.
Remedies:
 If any rust on the machine parts then clean it.
 Proper maintenance as well as proper oiling.

8. Pin hole
Causes:
 Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric.
Remedies:
 Change the needle.

9. Grease stain
Causes:
 Improper greasing
  Excess greasing
Remedies:
 Proper greasing as well as proper maintenance

10. Cloth fall- out

Causes:
 Cloth fall- out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with an
empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn feeder and remove the yarn out of the
hook of the following needles.
Remedies:
 Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after a drop stitch.
11. Barre:
A fault in weft knitted fabric appearing as light or dark course wise (width wise) stripe(s).
Causes:
 This fault comes from yarn fault.
 If different micro near value of fiber content in yarn.
 Different lusture, dye affinity of fiber content in yarn.
 During spinning different similar classes of fiber is mixed specially in carded yarn &
these fibers have similar characteristics.
 In draw fame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver.
Remedies:
 We can use this fabric in white color.
12. Fly:
Causes:
 In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due to low
twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric surface tightly
during knit fabric production.
Remedies:
 Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time.
 By cleaning the floor continuously.
 By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor.
  Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric.
13. Yarn contamination
Causes:
 If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing,
 If lot, count mixing occurs.
Remedies:
 By avoiding lot, count mixing.
 Fault less spinning.
.
14. Yarn Faults:
 Neps.
 Slubs.
 Yarn count.
 Thick/Thin place in yarn.
 Hairiness.

Production calculation

A. Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency:

RPM × No . of Feeder × No. of Needle × SL( mm)

=
3527.80× Yarn count

B. Production/shift in meter:

Course /min .
=
Course /cm
RPM ×No . of Feeder ×60×12×Efficiency
=
Course /cm×100

C. Fabric width in meter:

Total no . of wales
=
Wales /cm×100
Total no . of Needles usedin knitting
=
Wales /cm×100
 Points to Consider Before Producing Knitted Fabrics

When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production and quality.
Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. Those are as follows-

- Type of Fabric or design of Fabric.

- Finished G.S.M.
- Yarn count
- Types of yarn (combed or carded)
- Diameter of the fabric.
- Stitch length
- Color depth.

Methods of increasing production:

By the following methods the production of knitted fabric can be increased –

A. By increasing m/c speed:

Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately production will be
increased but it has to make sure that excess tension is not imposed on yarn because of
this high speed.

B. By increasing the number of feeder:

If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the number of
courses will be increased in one revolution at a time.

C. By using machine of higher gauge:

The more the machine gauge, the more the production is. So by using machine of higher
gauge production can be increased.

E. By imposing other developments:

a) Using creel-feeding system.
b) Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of yarn
damage.
c) Using yarn feed control device.
d) Using auto lint removal.
 State of Knitted Fabric

1. Off machine state:

This is the state of knitted fabric in which it is obtained just after production from knitting
machine.

2. Dry relaxed state:

The state of knitted fabric which is obtained after keeping it at 27+2c temperature for 24-72
hours

3. Fully relaxed state:

The state of knitted fabric which is obtained after washing it with detergent and then during
keeping it in standard atmosphere

4. Finished state:
The state of knitted fabric which is obtained after dyeing and finishing.

Factors influences fabric quality:

Fabric quality (Knitted fabric depends on the following factors as stated below :)

Quality of Yarn:

The yarn variable which influences knitting fabric quality are

1. Yarn Type
2. Yarn strength
3. Yarn Rigidness
4. Yarn Finishing Treatment
5. Yarn Count
6. Yarn evenness
7. Yarn Twist
8. Yarn extensibility

Features of Machine:

The machine variable which knitted fabric quality is

1. Machine Speed
2. Machine Gauge
3. Knitting elements
4. Stretcher Board
5. Take Down arrangement
6. Needle gaiting
7. Timing
8. Cam Design/ Cam arrangement
Productivity also depends on the following factors:

Fabric structure:

Simple and plain fabric structure will give high production where as complex designs will result
in les & slow production

Yarn Quality:

Yarn quality determines yarn breakage rate. If, in yarn there are thick places thin places,
excessive twist then that yarn breaks more frequently and will not pass easily through the needle.
Again for hairy fibres in yarn the co-efficient of friction will be more. For better quality yarn,
production will be smooth.

Machine Criteria:

Needle type, machine gauge, machine rpm, cam design etc. influence the productivity of
machine

Skill ness:

Skill ness of labors and worker influences the productivity. For skilled worker production will
increase.
 Sequence of Knit GMTS production & Sewing Thread

Sequence of Knit GMTS production

Pattern design& Sketching

Sample making

Production pattern

Pattern grading

Marker making

Spreading

Lay Plan

Fabric cutting

Numbering of cut parts

Bundling of cut parts

Sewing

Inspection

Pressing

Final inspection

Packing

Delivery
Fabric Cutting:

Fabric cutting means to cut out the garments pieces from lays of fabric with the help of cutting
template or marker. To make a complete garment, cutting is necessary. It is the previous step of
sewing.

Objectives of Fabric Cutting:

1. To separate the parts of garments from the lays of fabric which are laid as per
dimension of the marker.
2. To get the accurate shape of the components of a garment.
3. To make the garments parts ready for sewing.

Work sequence or flow in a Cutting room:

1. Design pattern of all parts of garments.
2. Grade pattern of other sizes.
3. Make marker for the best cutting efficiency.
4. Spread fabric on the cutting table.
5. Make a right lay.
6. Make an economic cut order plan.
7. Cut fabric as per lay plan & waste control.
8. Number cut parts & bundle them.

Organization chart of a cutting Department:

Manager of Cutting Department

Assistant Manager, Cutting

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

In Charge, CAD In Charge, Cutting

--------------------------------------- Cutting Supervisor

Pattern Designer Pattern grader Assistant Cutting Supervisor

---------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------
/
Plotter Operator Digitizer Marker Planner Fabric Spreader Fabric Cutter
Helper

Numbering & Bundling operator

Machines used for cutting of fabric:
1. Completely by manual--- Hand operated Scissor
2. Manually operated powered knife:
a) Straight Knife cutting machine.
b) Band Knife cutting machine.
c) Round knife cutting machine.
d) Die cutter.
e) Notcher.
f) Drill.
3. Computerized technique:
a) Knife cutting.
b) Cutting by water jet.
c) Laser cutting.
d) Plasma torch cutting.

Sewing Thread

Among all of the process involved in making apparels sewing is the most important one.
Sewing means apparels sewing is the most important one. Sewing means to join the cut
fabric by using sewing thread and needle, though without using sewing thread and needle
we can prepare dresses also. But sewing method is the best way, because the strength,
flexibility and easier method denote sewing only.

Seam: Seam means the line through which the sewing goes.

Properties of seam:

 Strength
 Elasticity
 Durability
 Security &
 Comfort.

Needle: Needle is the main element of sewing.

Function of needle

 To pass thread through the fabric securely.

 To pass needle loop
 To prepare seam.
Selection of needle:

 Before selecting a needle the shank dia, butt to eye distance, blade dia should be
considered.
 To consider the types of sewing thread.
 To consider the type of fabric to be sewed

The Techniques for sewing knit fabric:

 We should use a ball pointed needle as small as possible. A ball pointed needle should
not cut the yarns in the fabric as the needle penetrates the seam but shift the yarns to
one side. This also requires a small diameter thread.
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 Inspect the needles at regular intervals and replace them if they show signs of having a sharp
or burred point. Sometimes, the sewing machine can be out of adjustment, which allows
metal to metal contact that will damage the point. Readjust the sewing machine if necessary
to minimize this condition.

 As knit fabric is made by interlocking a series of loops, before sewing the edges of the
fabrics is folded down and make a zigzag stitch just before the seam. Because if a
loop be opened then there creates the possibility of opening the whole fabrics.

 Because knit "rolls" and "curls" one can never use enough pins. You will want to use
about twice as many pins as you normally would use when sewing the cotton. Even
so, your fabric will still roll. Lots of pining and correct ironing and pressing must
take place for your garment to have professional look when done.

 The finishing of sewing thread also be considered. Polyester and nylon threads are
also used on the over lock machine. Never use cotton thread for sewing on knit fabric.
The thread must also have elasticity to match up with the stretch of the fabric.

 At last the finishing of needle should be chosen carefully. Check for signs of needle
heat that may be melting the fibers. If needle heat is identified as the problem reduces
the needle heat by one of the following methods: a) use a double grooved needle if
available; b) make sure the thread has a good lubricant on it; and c) use some type of
needle cooler.