DIPLOMA IN ORGANIC SKINCARE FORMULATION

FORMULA BOTANICA

MODULE 3 – LESSON 1

FORMULATION SKILLS:
OIL BLENDING
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LESSON 1:
OIL BLENDING

Lesson 1: Lesson 2: Lesson 3:

Creamy Whipped
Oil blending
butters butters

Lesson 5: Lesson 4:
Quiz Lotion bars Balms

FORMULA BOTANICA
LEARNING OUTCOMES
LEARNING OUTCOMES FOR THIS LESSON:
‚ To formulate natural oil blends.
‚ To identify botanical ingredients that can be added to the formulation.
‚ To be able to follow the sample formulas provided to practise your skills.
‚ To know how to use our formulation template to create your own formula.

Welcome to Module 3, where we will finally get started with our formulation lessons!

You will very soon be making a variety of beautiful formulations packed with amazing
botanicals, including oil blends, creamy butters, whipped butters, balms and lotion bars
within this module. By starting with exploring the world of anhydrous formulations, which
are skincare products that do not contain water, we simplify the formulation process by
focusing on the ingredients' natural properties and their interactions without having to
manage aspects such as microbial contamination and pH adjustment. Remember what we
covered in Module 2: formulations can only have a pH if they contain water, and, barring a
few exceptions, most anhydrous formulations don’t need to be preserved. That’s why we
recommend all formulators start by making anhydrous formulations, which allows you to
focus on understanding and mastering the basics of formulating while still creating safe,
effective and nourishing skincare formulations.

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Remember to create an easy system to document your journey every step of the way, partly
to help you develop as a formulator and ensure you can recreate your favourite formulations
again and again, but also so you can look back and feel proud of your journey when you have
completed the Diploma!

€ Please share your photos in our online classroom or tag us on social media using
the #formulabotanica hashtag, so we can cheer you on and share in your success!

A MOMENT OF INSPIRATION
Before you begin, spend some time in our online classroom looking at some of the
formulations our creative students have been making. Use the search function to specifically
find products that have been created related to Module 3, for example, whipped butters
or lotion bars.

Why not create an inspiration board to connect you to this Module? There are many free
online mood board creators, or it could be a Google doc or even a paper journal.

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Consider the types of products that catch your eye, how they are designed and presented,
which ingredients are used, the botanicals chosen, the colours, textures and aromas, the
packaging and label design, and perhaps even the feedback students have been given
by their peers.

Be as creative as you like!

You may notice you are drawn to certain ingredients or design elements; perhaps this is the
beginning of an organic skincare brand you hope to build in the future.

Look back at your inspiration board throughout this module and see how your ideas develop
with experience – now let's begin this next step!

STUDY ACTIVITY 1
Key notes:
Read through these notes, highlight key information and complete the ‘pause and reflect’
tasks. This will help consolidate what you are learning.

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WHAT IS OIL BLENDING?

Oil blending is the process of combining different oils to create a well-rounded formulation
with a balance of properties, textures, and benefits. You might be thinking, "This sounds
simple," and you would be right. However, the beauty of oil blending lies in its simplicity, and
it serves as the foundation for creating a diverse range of skincare formulations such as
facial oils, body oils, massage oils, lip oils, and more. This technique also allows you to
get started with skincare formulation in a safe and easy way.

Remember that simplicity can be beautiful when it comes to formulating. Many Formula
Botanica graduates fell in love with oil blending while they were taking this Diploma, which
is why so many indie beauty brands very successfully sell botanical facial and body oils.

The world of plant oils is incredibly vast, offering an impressive palette for you to work
with. We promise you that you will feel inspired once you start to experiment with different
botanical oils. Before you know it, your home formulation lab will be filled with cucumber
seed oil, buriti fruit oil, borage oil, rosehip oil, hazelnut oil, apple kernel oil, strawberry seed oil,
blackcurrant seed oil, argan oil, apricot kernel oil, kiwi seed oil, St John’s wort oil, grapeseed
oil… and many more!

Each oil comes with its own unique consistency, skin feel, aroma, and colour. Furthermore,
these oils contain a wide range of compounds that lend them various skin-friendly properties.
This diversity in botanical oils means you can create personalised formulations to suit
different skin types and address a multitude of skin concerns.

One of the further advantages of oil blending

is its cold-process nature – the fact that you
don’t need to heat your ingredients to blend
them together. As some oils can be sensitive
to heat, blending them without applying heat
preserves their integrity and precious botanical
compounds and allows you to harness their
full benefits. This gentle approach ensures
that you can work with a vast range of plant
oils while maintaining their unique properties,
ensuring the potency and effectiveness
of your final formulation. You can find
information about oil’s heat stability in
the Ingredients Directory.

Oil blending is a simple yet incredibly versatile

skill, and we can't wait to see what amazing
blends you come up with!

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WHAT ARE NATURAL OIL BLENDS USED FOR?

Natural oil blends serve a multitude of purposes in skincare, boasting a variety of
characteristics that make them highly sought-after formulations.

Vegetable oils are natural emollients, meaning they have the ability to soothe and soften the
skin, thereby improving its overall appearance. The fatty acids found in these oils closely
resemble those present on our skin, allowing them to help repair the skin's lipid barrier.
Additionally, plant oils create a semi-occlusive film on the skin, helping to retain moisture
and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). This enhanced moisturisation not only
reduces symptoms of dryness but also leads to a plumping effect, making the skin feel
smoother and softer.

RECAP!
Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) refers to the amount of water
or moisture that evaporates from our skin into the environment.
It's a natural process that occurs daily, but when this rate of water
loss exceeds the skin's ability to hydrate itself, it can lead to dry,
dehydrated skin. By forming a semi-occlusive film, plant oils can help
reduce TEWL, ensuring that your skin retains its natural moisture.

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Unrefined vegetable oils may also contain other

beneficial botanical compounds such as vitamin E,
carotenoids, and phytosterols, all of which offer various
skin-protective properties.

When choosing oils for your blends, it's important to

consider their lipid profile. Oils can be categorised
based on the level of saturation of the main fatty
acids that compose them (find out more about
lipid saturation in the Carrier Oils Handbook):

These are oils that are usually solid or semi-solid at room

temperature. However, in hot climates, they may be liquid, as
SATURATED OILS the temperatures are higher. Saturated oils are stable due to
their molecular structure, which makes them less prone to
oxidation. This stability makes them ideal for formulations
that require a longer shelf life. Saturated oils like coconut
oil are often used in body formulations due to their rich,
emollient properties.

These oils are liquid at room temperature. They are known

MONOUNSATURATED for their moisturising and also nourishing properties, making
OILS them suitable for facial and body oil formulations. Examples
include macadamia oil and avocado oil, which are often
used in skincare products designed for dry or mature skin due
to their ability to promote skin elasticity and barrier repair.

These oils are also liquid at room temperature and have

POLYUNSATURATED a lighter skin feel, but they have a shorter shelf life than
OILS monounsaturated oils. They are rich in essential fatty
acids, which are vital for maintaining a healthy skin barrier.
Polyunsaturated oils, such as sunflower and hemp seed oils,
are commonly used in facial oils for oily or acne-prone skin
due to their high linoleic acid content, which can help balance
sebum production and reduce inflammation.

By selecting oils with specific characteristics, you have the power to formulate blends that
cater to specific skin types or concerns and create products suitable for different parts of
the body.

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PAUSE AND REFLECT!

? Some common skincare issues, such as dry, sensitive, mature, or oily skin, or
skin hyperpigmentation and spots, may benefit from the use of some natural
oils. Have a look online to see if you can find a natural oil that may help with any
of these issues. A good place to start would be a reputable ingredients supplier or the
Ingredients Directory in your Student Library. Make a note below of your findings:

Skin concern: Oil with beneficial properties:

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STUDY ACTIVITY 2
Exploring the properties of plant oils
Let's delve deeper into the unique properties of various plant oils. Follow these steps
and fill in the table:

1. Obtain Samples: Order small samples of at least five different plant oils that capture
your interest. Look for oils with diverse properties, such as different fatty acid
compositions or distinctive skin benefits. Consider oils like jojoba, rosehip, argan,
grapeseed, and evening primrose, among others. You can find inspiration by reading
the profiles in the Ingredients Directory and reading about the oils’ components in
the Carrier Oils Handbook.

2. Patch Test: Conduct a patch test on a small area of your skin to ensure there are no
adverse reactions or allergies. Apply a small amount of each oil to separate patches
of skin and observe how your skin responds over the next 24-48 hours.

3. Daily Application: For a few days, apply each plant oil individually as a facial or body
oil, observing how your skin responds and noting any distinctive characteristics. Apply
a few drops to clean skin, gently massaging it in. Take note of the texture, absorption
rate, scent, and how your skin feels after application. This experimentation will allow
you to develop a deeper understanding of the unique properties each plant oil offers.

4. Observation and Reflection: Over the course of a few days, take note of the
characteristics and benefits you observe with each oil. Consider factors such as texture,
aroma, skin feel, hydration, and any specific improvements you may experience. Reflect
on which oils you find most enjoyable or effective for your skin's needs.

Absorption Improvements Other

Plant oil Texture rate
Scent Skin feel in my skin observations

Remember to keep track of your observations for future reference. By engaging in this
sensory exploration, you will gain valuable insights into the qualities of different plant
oils and develop a personal connection to their effects on your skin.

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FORMULATION VARIATIONS
The world of natural oil blends is a versatile and exciting one, offering endless possibilities
for skincare formulations. By understanding the properties of different oil types, you can
strategically select your oils based on the formulation you wish to create, enhancing its
effectiveness and suitability for different skin types and concerns.

Here's a rundown of some oil blend formulations and their unique characteristics:

FACIAL OILS
Facial oils are often formulated with monounsaturated and
polyunsaturated oils due to their nourishing properties and
lighter texture. The choice of oils will depend on the skin
type targeted. For instance, oils rich in linoleic acid
(a polyunsaturated fatty acid), like rosehip oil, are beneficial
for oily skin, while oils high in oleic acid (a monounsaturated
fatty acid), like avocado oil, are great for dry skin.

How are these oil blends used?

After cleansing, apply a few drops of your facial oil blend to

your fingertips or the palm of your hand. Next, gently massage
the oil into your face and neck using upward circular motions.
The facial oil can be used on its own or in combination with
other skincare products, such as serums and moisturisers.

BODY OILS
Body oils are typically heavier and may include a higher
ratio of saturated oils for their rich, emollient properties.
Monounsaturated oils can also be used for their beneficial
skin properties and lighter skin feel.

How are these oil blends used?

Following a shower or bath, apply your body oil blend to slightly

damp skin, as this will help to lock in moisture. Using circular
motions, massage the oil into your skin, paying particular
attention to any dry or rough areas. The body oil can also be
used for spot treatments, targeting areas such as elbows,
knees, and heels.

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MASSAGE OILS
Massage oils need to provide good slip and glide, so oils
with a bit more weight and a silky finish are often chosen.
Monounsaturated oils such as sweet almond oil or avocado
oil are commonly used. Aromatherapists often incorporate
essential oils at higher percentages for added benefits, but it's
essential to be mindful of dermal limits, so remember to check
the Essential Oils Dermal Limits Guide for further guidance on
this topic.

How are these oil blends used?

When using a massage oil, warm the oil between your hands
before applying it to the skin. Use firm, smooth strokes to apply
the oil, adapting your technique to the area of the body you're
massaging.

LIP OILS
Lip oils are designed to be incredibly moisturising and often
include oils like jojoba oil, which closely resembles the skin's
natural sebum.

How are these oil blends used?

Apply your lip oil blend directly to your lips using a clean
fingertip or lip brush. You can use lip oils throughout the day as
needed to keep your lips moisturised and soft. For an overnight
treatment, apply a generous amount of lip oil before bed,
allowing it to deeply nourish your lips while you sleep.

These are just a few examples of how to use your oil blends. With a little experimentation
and creativity, you'll discover the best way to incorporate these nourishing formulations into
your skincare routine, reaping the benefits of their unique properties.

€ Other oil blend formulations you might explore include cuticle oils and bath oils,
for example.

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DO OIL BLENDS NEED A PRESERVATIVE?

Oil blends do not require preservatives because they don't contain water, and bacteria, mould,
and yeasts – which preservatives are designed to guard against – need water to grow. So, as
long as your oil blend doesn't come into contact with water, it remains naturally resistant to
microbial growth.

However, even though they don't need preserving with preservatives that protect against
microbes, oil blends still need antioxidants to protect the oils from a different threat:
oxidation. This process can cause your oils to become rancid, impacting their quality and
efficacy. In the next section, we will explore the importance of antioxidants in detail and their
role in maintaining the quality and efficacy of your oil blends.

STUDY ACTIVITY 3
Key notes:
Read through these notes, highlight key information and complete the ‘pause and reflect’
tasks. This will help consolidate what you are learning.

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INGREDIENT HIGHLIGHT:
ANTIOXIDANTS
Antioxidants play a vital role in maintaining the quality and effectiveness of your oil blends
and many other types of formulations you'll be creating in this course. So, what causes the
need for antioxidants in our formulations? The culprit is a process known as oxidation.

Oxidation is a natural process that can negatively impact vegetable oils and other cosmetic
ingredients, leading to rancidity, off-odours, and a loss of efficacy. This process is triggered
by factors such as exposure to heat, light, and oxygen. If you have ever opened a bottle of
rancid cooking oil, you know how different an oil can smell once it’s been oxidated.

At the core of oxidation lies the formation of free radicals, which are unstable molecules
that can cause damage to the structure of other molecules, including the fatty acids in oils,
leading to degradation and rancidity. This reaction is particularly common in unsaturated
fatty acids, which are more vulnerable to the action of free radicals.

The impact of oxidation on vegetable oils is significant. It can alter their scent, turning fresh,
nutty aromas into unpleasant, rancid odours. The colour of the oils can also change, and
more importantly, their beneficial properties can diminish, leading to a loss of efficacy. Also,
oxidated plant oils can cause unwanted skin reactions. Remember to check your botanical
ingredients regularly for rancidity before formulating with them to avoid spoiling your
formulations.

This is where antioxidants come in. Antioxidants work by stabilising free radicals and
preventing them from causing further damage. By incorporating antioxidants into your
oil blends, you can significantly extend the shelf life of your formulations and ensure they
remain effective and maintain their quality. Typically, you can achieve a shelf life of about
6 - 12 months for an oil blend by using antioxidants.

Two of the main antioxidants used in natural skincare formulations are tocopherol, also
known as vitamin E, and rosemary CO2 extract. Both of these ingredients offer dual benefits:
they help prevent oxidation in your formulations, and they also provide antioxidant benefits
when applied to the skin. This means they can help protect the skin from oxidative damage,
which can lead to premature ageing. You can find more in-depth information about
these ingredients in the Ingredients Directory.

It's also important to note that while we've

focused on these two antioxidants in this
lesson, there are many more out there, each
with its own unique benefits and properties.

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BONUS DEEP DIVE:

THE SCIENCE OF OXIDATION

€ Note: The following section provides additional material for those who wish to
gain a deeper understanding of the topic of oxidation and antioxidants, but it is
not required to complete the lesson. We include these sections to help prepare
you for the next, more advanced courses in your formulation career.

Exposure to factors like heat, light, and oxygen can prompt the formation of free radicals.
These are unstable molecules that have unpaired electrons, making them highly reactive as
they seek to pair their lone electron by stealing one from another molecule. However, this
action turns the victimised molecule into a new free radical, leading to a chain reaction that
can wreak havoc on the integrity and functionality of the ingredients in your formulations,
including your precious plant oils.

FREE RADICAL CHAIN REACTION

Electron transfer Electron transfer

Stabilised free radical Molecule now a free radical Molecule now a free radical

In unsaturated fatty acids, double bonds, where two atoms share two pairs of electrons, are
points of vulnerability. Free radicals can easily "steal" one of these loosely held electrons,
leading to the process of oxidation, which alters the structure of the fatty acid and can
lead to the degradation and rancidity of the oil. Therefore, oils with a high concentration of
unsaturated fatty acids are more susceptible to oxidation and need to be protected from
exposure to light, heat, and oxygen to maintain their stability and quality.

Antioxidants play a vital role in breaking this chain reaction. They possess the ability to
donate an electron to free radicals, effectively neutralising them and preventing further
damage. By using antioxidants in your oil blends, you can help protect the formulation's
ingredients from degradation, maintaining their quality and extending their shelf life.

For further reading on this topic, please refer to our blog post, The Formulator's Guide to
Antioxidants in Cosmetics. We also discuss this topic in more depth in our advanced courses.

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FORMULATION DESIGN
Let's begin with an example formula: a facial oil designed for dry skin. For this formula, we've
chosen nourishing oils rich in monounsaturated fatty acids: sweet almond and olive. These
oils are highly moisturising, making them great for dry skin. To protect our oils from oxidation
and extend shelf life, we've added vitamin E as an antioxidant.

This simple formula serves as a starting point. In the next sections, we'll explore more
complex formulations with additional ingredients, but for now, this example showcases
the essential elements of an oil blend: selecting oils to address specific skin needs and
incorporating an antioxidant for formulation stability.

1. Oils chosen for our nourishing facial oil are:

• Olive oil
• Sweet almond oil

2. Our formulation sheet will look like this:

We suggest you start by making 30 - 50g of this formulation:

Ingredient Category % g

Olive oil Foundation 50

Sweet almond oil Foundation 49

Vitamin E Stabiliser – 1
Antioxidant

Total 100 % 50 grams

Now, to recap the conversion skills you learnt in Module 2, Lesson 4 – Calculating Formulas,
use the percentages to calculate the weight of each ingredient required.

€ Tip: Use the formula below to help if you need to jog your memory:

ingredient percentage (%)

x total weight (g) = weight of ingredient (g)
100 (%)

Now check your answers at the end of these course notes. Make any corrections in
a different colour or highlight them to help you remember.

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3. Formulation method

1. Weigh both oils in a beaker. Mix well with a glass rod.

2. Next, weigh the vitamin E and add it to the oil blend. Stir well.

3. Pour into a glass bottle and label.

PAUSE AND REFLECT!

? Look up olive and sweet almond oils in the Ingredients Directory in your
Student Library to work out how this blend may nourish the skin.

Note your findings here:

Olive oil:

Sweet almond oil:

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INGREDIENT TIPS AND INSPIRATION

Explore different oils: There is a vast range of plant oils available, each
with its own unique properties. Don't limit yourself to the oils you're already
familiar with. Explore and experiment with new oils to broaden your
formulating skills and create a wider range of formulations.

Consider the lipid profile: The lipid profile of an oil – whether it's high in
saturated, monounsaturated, or polyunsaturated fatty acids – can greatly
influence its feel, absorption, and benefits on the skin. Keep this in mind
when selecting oils for specific skin types or concerns.

Don't forget antioxidants: While oil blends don't require preservatives,

they can benefit from antioxidants like vitamin E or rosemary CO2 extract.
These antioxidants help to prolong the shelf life of your formulations by
preventing oxidation, a process that can cause oils to become rancid.

Keep an eye on aroma and colour: Besides their skin benefits, oils can also
add a pleasant aroma and colour to your formulations. This can enhance
the sensory experience of using your skincare products, making them even
more enjoyable to use.

Explore essential oils: Essential oils can be used not only for their skin
benefits but also for their fragrant properties, which can help improve the
scent of plant oils that may naturally have a strong or unpleasant aroma.
Lavender oil, for instance, provides calming and soothing effects, while
tea tree oil's antimicrobial properties can help address acne-prone skin.
Remember to research the safe usage and dilution rates for essential oils.

Consider botanical extracts: Oil-soluble botanical extracts, such as

chamomile or calendula macerates or oil infusions, can add unique
benefits to your oil blends. These extracts can provide soothing and anti-
inflammatory benefits, further enhancing your formulation's effectiveness.

Incorporate speciality oils: Some oils have unique characteristics that can
enhance your formulations. For example, you could use borage oil, rich
in gamma-linolenic acid, to help soothe irritated skin or tamanu oil for its
regenerative properties.

Sustainability matters: Consider the sustainability of the ingredients you

are using. Opt for oils that are organically grown, ethically sourced, and
sustainably harvested whenever possible.

Make use of your resources: Don't forget to make use of the Ingredients
Directory and Carrier Oils Handbook provided in the course. These
resources contain valuable information on a wide range of ingredients that
can inspire your formulations.

Remember, formulating is as much an art as it is a science. Embrace creativity and

experimentation, and you'll soon find yourself creating unique and effective formulations!

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FORMULATION TIPS AND INSPIRATION

Start simple: Begin with a small number of ingredients to better
understand how they work together. As you become more comfortable and
confident in your formulating skills, gradually introduce new ingredients to
create more complex blends.

Experiment with ratios: The ratio of oils in your blend can drastically
change its overall feel and performance. Don't be afraid to adjust
proportions in your formulations to achieve your desired result.

Keep records: Document your formulations, including the ingredients,

quantities, and any observations. This will help you track your progress,
learn from previous experiments, and make it easier to replicate or
modify successful blends in the future.

Formulate for specific needs: Consider the specific needs of the skin type
you are formulating for. This might mean choosing oils that are particularly
nourishing for dry skin or oils that are light and balancing for oily skin.

Test and adjust: As with any creative process, testing and adjusting your
formulations is essential. Always test your formulations to ensure they
are safe, effective, and pleasant to use. Don't be afraid to make changes
and refine your blend based on feedback or your own experiences. This
iterative process will help you create the best possible product.

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STUDY ACTIVITY 4
Examine oil blends that you personally enjoy, be they facial oils, body oils, or other types.
These could be blends you have and use, or have a look online and see what appeals.
Your task is to research the ingredients listed on the labels, gaining insight into what
makes these formulations effective and appealing.

1. Identify oil blends: Start by selecting oil blends from

different brands that you enjoy or find interesting.

2. Spot interesting ingredients: As you scan through the

ingredients list, make note of those that stand out to
you. These could be ingredients you're unfamiliar with,
ingredients with unique properties, or ones that seem
to be prevalent in your favourite oil blends.

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FORMULA SAMPLES
Here, we have provided four tempting sample formulas to look through to inspire your
formulations and get your creativity bubbling:

1. Golden Plum Night Oil

2. Vanilla Silk Lip Oil

3. Peachy Radiance Facial Oil

4. Soothing Calendula Body Oil

Look at the oils used and consider their benefits (use the Ingredients Directory to research
them further if you wish). Notice the antioxidants used and become familiar with different
types of blends as well as how to put together a formula.

Practise converting the percentages to weights if you feel you need more practise with
the maths.

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FORMULA SAMPLES: NATURAL OIL BLENDS

GOLDEN PLUM NIGHT OIL
This facial oil blends nourishing plum kernel and balancing jojoba oils for normal to dry skin
types. Enhanced with antioxidant-rich vitamin E and scented with rose geranium, it offers a
soothing, floral aroma paired with sweet orange essential oil, which adds a refreshing and
uplifting touch.

Recap: As a reminder, you have already encountered the concept of phases in Module 2,
Lesson 3. In our sample formulations, we applied this approach to simplify the addition
of ingredients. In these formulations, phase A represents the oils used, which can be
conveniently combined in the same beaker for ease of measurement and mixing. Phase B
encompasses the remaining compounds, including vitamin E and essential oils, added
at lower concentrations that demand more precise weighing. This division into phases
streamlines the formulation process, providing greater control and efficiency.

Formulation level: Beginner

Phase Ingredient Category % g

A Plum kernel oil Foundation 50

(INCI: Prunus Domestica Seed Oil)
A Jojoba oil Foundation 48.4
(INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil)
B Vitamin E Stabiliser - antioxidant 1
(INCI: Tocopherol)
B Rose geranium essential oil Aromaceutical 0.3
(INCI: Pelargonium Graveolens Oil)
B Sweet orange essential oil Aromaceutical 0.3
(INCI: Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil)

Total: 100%

Equipment list:

‚ Glass beaker
‚ Glass rod
‚ Scales
‚ Packaging: glass bottle

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Formulation method:

1. Weigh the oils (phase A) in a beaker. Mix well with a glass rod.

2. Next, weigh the vitamin E and essential oils (phase B) and add them to the oil blend.
Stir well.

3. Pour into a glass bottle and label.

€ pH: Please remember, since these formulations are anhydrous (contain no water),
there's no need to measure their pH.

Let's familiarise ourselves with the ingredients list of a formulation. In each lesson, we'll
provide you with the complete ingredients list for the formulations we explore. However,
please note that at this stage, you are not expected to write the ingredients list yourself. We'll
delve into the intricacies of creating an accurate ingredients list in detail during later modules,
ensuring you have a comprehensive understanding. For now, our focus is on acquainting you
with the structure and format of an ingredients list.

Ingredients list: Prunus Domestica Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil,
Tocopherol, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Citral*, Citronellol*,
Geraniol*, Limonene*.
*From essential oils.

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FORMULA SAMPLES: NATURAL OIL BLENDS

VANILLA SILK LIP OIL
Our next sample formula is a lip oil, carefully curated to provide nourishment and care
for your lips. Oat oil, rich in ceramides, helps to reinforce the skin's barrier function, while
coconut and jojoba oils offer lightweight emollience. The inclusion of castor oil gives the
formula a glossy finish, characteristic of many lip care products. Vitamin E serves as an
antioxidant, protecting the oils from rancidity. Finally, the formulation is topped off with
vanilla CO2 extract, lending a pleasing, natural aroma.

Formulation level: Beginner

Phase Ingredient Category % g

A Oat oil (INCI: Avena Sativa Kernel Oil) Foundation 30

A Coconut oil (INCI: Cocos Nucifera Oil) Foundation 30

A Castor oil Foundation 20

(INCI: Ricinus Communis Seed Oil)
A Jojoba oil Foundation 17
(INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil)

B Vitamin E (INCI: Tocopherol) Stabiliser - antioxidant 1

B Vanilla CO2 (3% dilution in fractionated Aesthetic - fragrance 2

coconut oil)
(INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and)
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract)

Total: 100%

Equipment list:

‚ Glass beaker
‚ Glass rod
‚ Scales
‚ Packaging: lip gloss tube

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Formulation method:

1. If the coconut oil is solid, add it to the beaker and heat it slightly in a water bath just
until it melts. It does not need to go over 30ºC, so you don’t need to wait until it cools
down to add the other ingredients.

2. Weigh and add the other oils to the beaker. Mix well with a glass rod.

3. Weigh the vitamin E and vanilla extract (phase B) and add them to the oil blend (phase A).
Stir well.

4. Pour into a lip gloss tube and label.

€ pH: Please remember, since these formulations are anhydrous (contain no water),
there's no need to measure their pH.

Ingredients list: Avena Sativa Kernel Oil, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Ricinus Communis
Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride,
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract.

Top tip! Can’t find vanilla CO2 extract? Don’t worry!

You can create your own vanilla-infused oil to add
to your oil blends.

To create a vanilla-infused oil, start by slicing or

chopping vanilla beans. Place them in a clean
glass jar and pour your chosen plant oil over them
(jojoba oil is an excellent option), ensuring they are
fully submerged. Seal the jar tightly and store it in
a cool, dark place for 4-6 weeks, gently shaking
it every few days to facilitate infusion. After the
desired infusion time, strain the oil through a
fine-mesh sieve or clean cheesecloth into a clean
container, pressing down on the vanilla beans
to extract any remaining infused oil. Store the
vanilla-infused oil in a cool, dark place and enjoy
incorporating this aromatic essence into your lip oil
formulations for a delightful sensory experience.

In this case, you can adapt the formulation, substituting the amount of vanilla CO2
extract and jojoba oil (which will sum up to 19%) for your own vanilla-infused jojoba oil.

Remember to always write down your experiences! Take notes of the amounts used to
make your infusion, the date of manufacturing and any other relevant observations.

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FORMULA SAMPLES: NATURAL OIL BLENDS

PEACHY RADIANCE FACIAL OIL
This intricate blend includes nourishing peach kernel and avocado oils, while camellia, jojoba,
and rosehip oils provide a smooth, non-greasy feel. Vitamin E provides antioxidant properties
to the formulation, and alpha-bisabolol, an active ingredient derived from chamomile, provides
soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. The enchanting aroma of Australian sandalwood
and sweet orange essential oils creates an uplifting and indulgent sensory experience.

Formulation level: Intermediate

Phase Ingredient Category % g

A Peach kernel oil Foundation 30

(INCI: Prunus Persica Kernel Oil)

A Avocado oil (INCI: Persea Gratissima Oil) Foundation 20

A Camellia oil Foundation 20

(INCI: Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil)
A Jojoba oil Foundation 17.5
(INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil)

A Rosehip oil (INCI: Rosa Canina Fruit Oil) Foundation 10

B Vitamin E (INCI: Tocopherol) Stabiliser - antioxidant 1

B Alpha-bisabolol (INCI: Bisabolol) Active ingredient 1

B Australian sandalwood essential oil Aromaceutical 0.25

(INCI: Santalum Spicata Wood Oil)
B Sweet orange essential oil Aromaceutical 0.25
(INCI: Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil)

Total: 100%

Equipment list:

‚ Glass beaker
‚ Glass rod
‚ Scales
‚ Packaging: glass bottle

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Formulation method:

1. Weigh the oils from phase A in a beaker. Mix well with a glass rod.

2. Next, weigh the vitamin E, alpha-bisabolol and essential oils (phase B) and add them
to the oil blend. Stir well.

3. Pour into a glass bottle and label.

€ pH: Please remember, since these formulations are anhydrous (contain no water),
there's no need to measure their pH.

Ingredients list: Prunus Persica Kernel Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Camellia Oleifera
Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Tocopherol,
Bisabolol, Santalum Spicatum Wood Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil,
Farnesol*, Limonene*, Linalool*.
*From essential oils.

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FORMULA SAMPLES: NATURAL OIL BLENDS

SOOTHING CALENDULA
BODY OIL
This body oil is a gentle, moisturising treat for sensitive skin. This formulation combines the
nourishing properties of calendula macerate, evening primrose, borage, and coconut oils.
Calendula macerate is known for its soothing benefits for sensitive skin, while evening primrose
and borage oils are rich in essential fatty acids, which help support the skin's natural barrier.
Coconut oil provides additional emollience and a smooth texture. Vitamin E enhances the oil
blend's stability, protecting it from oxidation. The subtle, earthy scents of frankincense and
patchouli essential oils complement the formula.

Formulation level: Intermediate

Phase Ingredient Category % g

A Calendula macerate in sunflower oil Foundation/Active 40

(INCI: Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil (and) ingredient - active
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract) botanical
A Evening primrose oil Foundation 25
(INCI: Oenothera Biennis Oil)
A Borage oil Foundation 18
(INCI: Borago Officinalis Seed Oil)

A Coconut oil (INCI: Cocos Nucifera Oil) Foundation 15

B Vitamin E (INCI: Tocopherol) Stabiliser - antioxidant 1

B Frankincense essential oil Aromaceutical 0.5

(INCI: Boswellia Carterii Gum Oil)
B Patchouli essential oil Aromaceutical 0.5
(INCI: Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil)

Total: 100%

Equipment list:

‚ Glass beaker
‚ Glass rod
‚ Scales
‚ Packaging: glass bottle

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Formulation method:

1. Weigh the oils from phase A in a beaker. Mix well with a glass rod.

2. Next, weigh the vitamin E and essential oils (phase B) and add them to the oil blend.
Stir well.

3. Pour into a glass bottle and label.

€ pH: Please remember, since these formulations are anhydrous (contain no water),
there's no need to measure their pH.

Note: If you want, you can substitute coconut oil for medium-chain triglycerides (also known
as Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides), which does not solidify in cold weather and has a
smoother texture.

Ingredients list: Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract,
Oenothera Biennis Oil, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Tocopherol,
Boswellia Carterii Gum Oil, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil, Limonene*, Linalool*,
Eugenol*.
*From essential oils.

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YOUR TURN
OIL BLEND FORMULATION BREAKDOWN
To guide you in designing your own unique oil blend, we're providing a flexible frame formula.
This general formula can be adapted based on the specific type of oil you wish to create. Each
type of formulation will have slight variations in the percentages of ingredients, as follows:

‚ Plant oils: 87 - 100%

‚ Botanical extracts: 0 - 10%
‚ Antioxidant: 0.5 - 1%
‚ Aromaceuticals:
• Facial oils: 0 - 1%
• Lip oils: 0 - 0.5%
• Body oils: 0 - 2 %

The total must always add up to 100%. Remember your percentage to weight conversion
calculations - do look back to the recap earlier in the lesson if you wish to. The type and
quantity of each ingredient can vary within the given range, allowing you to tailor the formula to
your specific requirements.

Happy formulating!

DESIGN YOUR OWN FORMULATION

This is possibly the most exciting stage of your organic skincare formulation journey so far –
designing your very own formulation! You've gained considerable knowledge about various
oils, their properties, and how they can be blended to create unique formulations.
Now, it's time to put that knowledge into practise and get set up in your lab. This activity
encourages you to think creatively about ingredient selection and the overall formulation
design. Remember, the goal is not only to create a functional
product but also to learn from the process and gain
a deeper understanding of formulating skincare.
Enjoy this experience, don’t rush, and remember
to have fun along the way!

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The framework below will help you document your planning and formulation.

Theme and planning:

What do you want your oil blend to achieve? Which oils could you use? Consider your options
and plan your idea here:

Formula name: Batch size:

Phase Ingredient INCI Category % g

Total: 100%

Equipment list:

‚
‚
‚
‚

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Formulation method:

1.

2.

3.

4.

Formulation notes:

€ pH: You’ll be completing this box from module 4 onwards.

Ingredients list: You’ll be completing this box from module 6 onwards.

‚ Key resources: Refer to our Ingredient Research Form, Ingredient Directory, and
Carrier Oils Handbook for ingredient insights.
‚ Safety guidelines: Always consult the latest Essential Oil Dermal Limits Guide when
using essential oils in your formulations to ensure using them at a safe concentration.

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FORMULA
TROUBLESHOOTING
Creating your own formulations is an empowering journey, and you've got this! To help you
navigate any bumps along the way, we've provided a handy troubleshooting guide. If you need
further support, we're just a click away in the “Ask the Tutor” Forum, or you can go to the
Online Classroom for peer support.

1. My oil blend is cloudy or didn’t blend properly

If you find your oil blend appearing cloudy or seeming like it didn’t blend properly, don't
worry. This is a common phenomenon seen with certain oils at cooler temperatures.
Some oils, particularly those with a higher percentage of saturated fats, such as coconut
oil, solidify at lower temperatures, contributing to the cloudy appearance. Warming the oil
gently should restore its clarity.

2. My oil blend smells weird

Certain raw oils, particularly those that are cold-pressed, can have strong odours that some
might find unappealing. Neem oil, for example, is a powerful skincare ingredient known for
its pungent scent. If you're noticing a strange smell in your blend, consider a few factors.
Ensure that your oils are fresh, as oils rich in unsaturated fatty acids can have a shorter
shelf life and might develop off-odours if they become rancid. Proper storage in a cool,
dark place away from sunlight is crucial to maintaining the quality of your oils. You can also
check if your suppliers add antioxidants like vitamin E to their oils to extend their shelf life.
Always verify the expiration dates of your oils before using them.

PAUSE AND REFLECT!

? Please do share your fabulous oil blends in your Online Classroom; we would
love to see what you have created, and our students and mentors will be ready
to offer feedback, advice, and support!

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SUMMARY AND REVIEW

We've reached the conclusion of our lesson on oil blending. You've learned that these
anhydrous formulations allow you to combine various types of oils. By selecting oils with
specific properties, you can design your formulation to suit different body parts and address
specific skin types or concerns. The vast array of plant oils available gives you infinite
possibilities for unique formulations.
© Oil types: We delved into the different types of oils - saturated, monounsaturated,
and polyunsaturated. Each kind offers unique textures and sensory experiences and
provides benefits for particular skin types.

© Formulation variations: Despite the simplicity of oil blending, the process allows the
creation of a wide array of formulations like facial oils, body oils, lip oils, massage oils,
and more. Your creativity knows no bounds!

© Stability: Oil blends don’t need to be preserved, as they don’t contain water and do not
provide a friendly environment for microorganisms to grow. But remember, they must
stay free from water contact during use! More importantly, even though preservatives
aren't necessary, including antioxidants in your oil blends helps prevent rancidity,
ensuring the enduring quality of your formulations..

LESSON 1 REFLECTIONS:
Use this space to record notes, key terms, or questions to refer back to:

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LESSON 1 IS COMPLETE!
Next steps:
Looking forward to our next adventure in formulation? As we continue our journey, we'll start
delving into the luxurious world of plant butters. These natural emollients provide a myriad
of benefits and add richness to our formulations.

We'll be exploring two new techniques: cold and warm blending. Both have unique
characteristics and offer different advantages, giving you more tools to customise your
creations. We'll utilise these techniques to design and formulate delightful creamy balms.

We can’t wait to see you take a leap into the next step in your formulation journey. We hope
you are starting to feel like an accomplished organic skincare formulator now; you certainly
should be!

HOW TO GET STUDENT SUPPORT

For general and tech support, contact the Student Experience team by:

  
PHONE EMAIL LIVE CHAT
+44 (0) 800 011 9545 school@[Link] [Link]

‚ Our Education Team is available via the Tutor Forum for your course. You can
ask all your
DIPLOMA INformulation and course
ORGANIC SKINCARE related questions
FORMULATION: there3,
MODULE and our team
LESSON 1 of
tutors will be happy to support you.
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LESSON 1 ANSWERS
Use these answers to check your notes in the study tasks. If you need to make a correction,
it is useful to make it in a different colour – it will help you embed the knowledge.

FORMULATION DESIGN ACTIVITY ANSWERS:

2. Our formulation sheet will look like this:

Ingredient Category % g

Olive oil Foundation 50 25 grams

Sweet almond oil Foundation 49 24.5 grams

Vitamin E Stabiliser – 1 0.5 grams

Antioxidant

Total 100 % 50 grams

How did we get to these weights?

ingredient percentage (%)

x total weight (g) = weight of ingredient (g)
100 (%)

Olive oil:
50/100 x 50 = 25g
Remember – the percentages should always
Sweet almond oil: add up to 100%, and the ingredient weight
49/100 x 50 = 24.5g should always add up to the total weight
of the formulation (in this case, 50g).
Vitamin E: You can always double check by totalling
1/100 x 50 = 0.5g the amounts!

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