Equine Movement and Balance Mechanics
Equine Movement and Balance Mechanics
STATIC
ATTITUDES
Plumb line
IMPROGRESSIVES
KINEMATICS MOVEMENTS
PROGRESSIVES
PROCEEDINGS
Natural
Acquired
Marched
Stir-fried
Lateral
The animal is in BALANCE when the vertical dropped from its center
of gravity falls within the support base
Base of Support is the area limited by the lines that connect the
centers of the lower extremities of the limbs, that is a
rectangle.
FORCED
ATTITUDES
Decubitus
Sternocostal
DECUBITUS
DECUBITUS
LATERAL
Station
Free station
Forced station
To lie down,
the horse concentrates its limbs, lowers its head, bends
the members, plus the previous ones, and lets oneself fall to
one of the sides.
To get up
extends the head and neck brightly upwards and
backwards, then it firms up on the forelimbs,
raising the front quarters, and finally, lifts the
rear rooms.
This position is
right or left
according to the side
about what the
animal rests.
Decubitus
Lateral decubitus
Empinoorsheep wrangling
Choice
It is the rise of the rear quarters with the projection of the members for
back.
The horse that kicks starts by laying its ears back, lowers
the cephalo-cervical balancer, in order to pull the center of gravity to
forward and downward, it anchors itself on the forelimbs and projects the
hind limbs to the back.
But even more than in the kick, the balance during the kick is
very unstable, and the position lasts only for the duration of its execution;
it can, however, repeat itself a large number of times in a row.
MOVEMENTS
Improgressives
Choice
PROCEEDINGS
PROCEEDINGS
Heavy, when the hoof strikes the ground with great force;
ANDAMENTOS
It is evidenced in the
Individual conservation
The changes in the normal opening of certain angles drag an inequality.
distribution of pressures, which can overload the bone rays,
affect the ligamentous organs or falsify the good support of the surface
to plant.
The inclination of the bony rays, inward or outward from the line of
it also creates an abnormal distribution of pressures,
determining the overload of the external or internal parts of
articular surfaces, the hypertension of the internal or external ligaments
It is the greater pressure on the outside or inside of the hull.
GUIDELINES
There are 3 natural gaits: the walk, the trot, and the gallop
THE STEP
The step is a slower tempo. Its speed is, for a
horse, from 6 to 8 km per hour.
It is a symmetrical march gait, at 4 tempos and without fatigue.
four beats.
When the displacement starts with the
right posterior limb, the sequence is:
right posterior, left anterior
left posterior and right anterior.
Speed: 6 to 8 km/h
THE STEP
Concentrated step (short), the speed is lower and the hooves of the
hind legs land on the ground behind the footprints made by the
helmets of the previous ones.
Ordinary work step, the speed is average and the hulls of the
the hind legs rest on the ground slightly in front of the footprints
two helmets of the previous ones.
Average step
Wide step (widening), the speed is higher and the hulls of
the hind legs clearly land on the ground in front of the hooves
two previous ones.
Free pass, the whole scheme is possible ...
THE TROT
The trot is an intermediate pace. Its speed is, for a
horse, from 13 to 15 km per hour.
It is a skipped, symmetrical gait, at 2 equal tempos. The horse
advances by separated diagonal bipeds through a period of
suspension.
Speed: 13 to 15 km / hour
THE TROT
Concentrated trot (short), the speed is lower and the hooves of the limbs.
the posterior ones land on the ground behind the prints made by the hooves of the
previous.
Work trot (ordinary), the speed is average and the shells of
later ones rest on the ground slightly in front of the footprints of
helmets of the previous ones.
Average trot
Extended trot (elongation), the speed is greater and the hind hooves.
They land on the ground clearly facing the attached fronts of the previous hooves.
Trote livre, todo o esquema é possível …
The supreme stylizations of the
the trot is:
•offer, in which the horse,
without advancing, keeps hitting on
ground, trotting stopped;
a passage, in which he
moves little, exchanging the
members but advancing
with great suspension.
Mechanism OF THE GALLOP TO THE RIGHT (a gallop stride to the right)
THE GALLOP
1st half
Landing the posterior
left
2nd half
Land the right diagonal
(PD and AE)
3rd half
Settle the PREVIOUS RIGHT
Projection/ suspension
Mechanism OF LEFT GALLOP (a left gallop stride)
Projection/ suspension
THE GALLOP
The Gallop is the three-beat gait in which the horse moves forward with the
right front limb when turning to the right and left when
turn left.
He can therefore gallop to the right hand and to the left hand.
The most advanced member touches the ground in line like the nose, even.
that, with the leg stretched out to the maximum, the foot remains in the air in front of that line.
Speed: 20 to 30 km / hour
THE GALLOP
Medium canter
Long gallop (lengthening), the speed is greater and the hooves of the
the hind legs clearly rest on the ground in front of the pads of the hooves
two previous ones.
In the book, any scheme is possible...
THE GALLOP
In the world of 'Portuguese' horses (where everyone already knows everything better than their neighbor)
I now humbly propose to recommend to others the knowledge I have access to and with
I adopted for my personal use.
Thus, I dedicate to my students the pleasure of trying to systematize for them some techniques.
related to equestrian management.
Adapted from:
GALOPS
French Equestrian Federation
[Link]
WORK BY GUIDE
Portuguese School of Equestrian Art
[Link]/epae/
[Link]
Approach and handling of a horse
In the field
Before any attempt at manipulation, it makes sense to acquire the basic knowledge inherent to psychology.
specific behaviors of horses that lead us to perceive an animal that is innately fearful, preferring flight over
exploring the identity of those who get closer.
The horse has a natural tendency to shy away from anything unexpected or unpleasant, which means that the type of handling
possível de praticar depende do nível de “condicionamento” a que o animal tiver sido submetido ao longo da sua vida, particularmente
during the roughing phase, which is why we address this topic later on.
Assuming that we are dealing with trimmed horses and usually handled according to convenient rules, the approach
it must be promoted calmly, talking or whistling in a way to prevent them from noticing our presence.
Traditionally, the left side of the horse is the one that is most used in handling, so it may eventually be advisable to use it.
especially when we do not have a previous relationship with the animal or in situations where it shows greater reluctance to allow itself
to handle.
In future manipulations, it is advisable to develop the manipulations to the left and to the right.
equally, in order to ensure a harmonious balance of the animal.
Thus, with calmness, relaxation, and determination, we seek for the horse to consent to
approach to the point of allowing permanent contact of the hand with the shoulder.
In cases where the rider has little practice or is uncomfortable due to lack of
It is possible that the horse feels this kind of 'energy' and it itself becomes
startled or suspicious, preferring to create distance by fleeing. In these cases, one must
wait for the horse to immobilize and restart the entire procedure. Run after a
the horse is the best way not to be able to approach and manipulate it.
After permanent contact with the shoulder, we gradually began to explore the table.
to the neck, gaining the connection with the opposite side of the neck that will give us access
to the control of the bevel in order to ensure the immobilization and subjection of the animal.
After this type of contact and precarious subjection has been consented to, it is important to apply the headlock or headpiece.
The big head, open and wide appropriately to fit the size of the horse's head, is held by the bridle with one hand and
with the other controlling the orientation used, the muzzle is inserted into the snout up to the stop, holding and pulling the cheek straps to
the level until the liquor reaches the height of the pompadour so that it smoothly passes back behind the ears resting on the nape.
Many times, after the approach, contact, and initial subjection, it is possible to put an arm or a handcuff around the
neck, putting on him, soon after the big head.
We are not proponents of using any type of treat (savory or sweet) to manipulate a working horse.
collective (for example horse from 'School'), especially since there is a real risk that later a child or unsuspecting young person,
getting close to a horse accustomed to looking for treats in human hands can manifest as a lick or nibble from a
dirty hand after eating sweets, ice cream, cookies or plain bread.
Next, adjust and fasten the headpiece as well as handle the short reins so that the loops are in the left hand.
The right hand grips near the carabiner, ensuring total control over the animal.
In situations where it is necessary to handle and guide more than one animal simultaneously, it is important to take into account the
existence of potential interactions between them, resulting from the social status that each one has and that may determine attitudes
agonistic behavioral patterns that will need to be anticipated and addressed by the way of controlling the manipulated animals.
Safety distances (2.5 meters ± the length of a horse) are crucial to avoid disputes and assaults between the
horses that can potentially catch the unsuspecting or ignorant knights of these facts.
In the box
The previously mentioned principles remain valid mainly with respect to calmness, relaxation, and determination in
approach and handle the animal on the first attempt.
The lack of trust and the knight's fear are transmissible to the horse, creating a vicious cycle leading to the need for
multiple attempts to achieve my result. A scared horse is potentially dangerous inside a box, as it does not have
possible escape route.
Animals kept in boxes are usually in work, so they are used to the sound signal from
Our presence, open the door and let yourselves be handled easily.
Some are lurking for the opportunity to leave, without prior consent, through the door that was left too open or by
reason for distraction or busyness of the jockey inside the box.
The training of the horse in these circumstances leads to the fact that the desire to show an intention to leave is not allowed when the
the door opens or stays wide open, for the convenience of the approach of the manure truck, or the entry of the knight with the harnesses
in the arms.
Much less will it be accepted that a horse "anxious" to leave the box corners us against the door or a corner.
The necessary education is achieved through friendly, determined, and persuasive orders of 'enough' or 'move aside' with the
raise the arm pointing in the direction of the intended movement. Initially, the non-violent use of a stick or
stick, an effective clarifier of doubts or reluctances that may exist.
Caught in a ring
The safest way to tie a horse to a ring or a post is to secure it
guide to a cord (fuse) that will break in case of force majeure, preventing the animal
progressively dulls your intention to free yourself and the trauma can be fatal.
When tying a horse, a knot that is easy to undo should always be used so that it is
It is possible to easily free the animal in any circumstance.
The quick knots are always easy to undo, even if the animals tighten them with the
your pulls.
1. The guide passes through the cord and forms a loop.
2. A second loop made with the end is threaded through the first. As many loops are made as necessary for
so that the guide does not become too long.
3. The hanging end must be tight because the knot is tightened by simultaneously pulling on its upper part and
by the end connected to the head.
4. In case of needing to release the animal, just pull the end of the leash.
ground direction, as the loops progressively unravel, no matter how
tightened that they are.
The height of the animal to be tied to a ring must determine the height of the ring.
in terms of security.
Horse hygiene
The dry cleaning of the horse takes on particular importance, as it is more than just making the horse presentable, it is transforming.
in a pleasant massage that, being done by the knight himself, greatly helps to create a good relationship between both.
Daily cleaning greatly depends on the health and well-being of the horse, as it presents an opportunity to give it a thorough check.
careful all over the body.
A respected knight makes it a point of honor never to saddle a horse without it being cleaned beforehand (free of dirt or
stains on the coat and straw or shavings on the tail or mane) and after working, leave it equally clean (free of dirt and
sister and mainly dry).
Cleaning materials are diverse and should be chosen based on the type of work the horse does and its sensitivity.
Regarding the materials they are made of and the available budget (more expensive natural ones and cheaper synthetic ones).
A cleaning kit, individual, must consist of at least a rubber pad, a stiff brush, a natural bristle.
a mixed mane brush and a hoof iron.
Almofada - The almofada can be made of metal, rubber, or plastic. The metal almofada is preferably used in regions
muscular (fleshy), while the rubber one can be used in these and other more sensitive regions of the joints or of
extremity of the limbs. In most cases, plastic pads are used in the bath.
Cardoa - Brush with long and stiff bristles made of plant fibers (piaçaba) or nylon, which can be used all over the body with
to thoroughly clean the hair freeing it from dust, dry sweat, or flakes of dead skin (dandruff), among others
dirt. The softer brushes are intended for detailing to provide shine (luster) to the horse's coat after cleaning.
Brussa – Brush with short and soft bristles, natural or nylon, is used to remove any remaining dirt between the hairs.
restoring the natural shine to the fur. The best ones are made from horse, goat, cow, or pig hair. Nylon ones work well and are
cheaper.
Combs and mane brushes - The combs were conce used to untangle the mane and trim it by removing the hair
unlike brushes that were designed to detangle the mane and tail of the horse without pulling them out
There are even "shearing" combs designed to trim the mane and even out the tail's roots, cutting the...
longer hair.
Horseshoe tools - The tools are meant for cleaning the hooves, which should be cleaned before and after work. The brushes
they are used in the application of ointments or other moisturizing and lubricating products for the hoof.
Organization of cleaning materials - Depending on the quantity and diversity of the materials to be organized, the model should be accordingly.
the size of the storage solutions. A good principle of hygiene and equine health is for each horse to have its own cleaning materials.
individual.
Cleaning should be done from front to back and from top to bottom, that is, from the ears to the hooves and is usually
carried out in two phases:
• a more coarse and deep one, in which through the curry comb and the brush the animal is freed from most of the dirt, in the
coat, in the mane and in the tail;
• and another, finer, for finishing, in which using the brush and the pommel the removal of residual dirt is done and
promotes the finishing with the shine of the coat, the final touch on the manes and tails, as well as the cleaning of the hooves.
For this reason, the first tool to use is the curry comb, which is passed over various areas of the horse's body in movements.
linear movements against and in favor of the hair, which are clearly more effective than "more or less circular movements."
These movements need to be performed with specific intensity and rhythm to be effective, unlike 'little parties', which
it usually makes the knight 'sweat'.
Obviously, in the meaty parts we can use iron pads, but in sensitive areas, where there are no masses.
muscle and the skin covers almost directly the bones, tendons, and ligaments, we should use rubber or plastic cushions.
The type of pad used can be determined by the sensitivity of the horse, as some are ticklish or weakened by
work (hypersensitive back) thanks the aforementioned rubber cushions used gently.
High-quality carpets "grab" a huge amount of dry dirt that needs to be removed from time to time.
gently striking it on the ground or another fixed point near the floor.
After the unshackled animal follows the use of the card to deeply clean the fur, freeing it from the films of
dust, manure, urine, straw, bedding shavings, and dead hair and skin (dandruff). This cleaning is facilitated by broad strokes and movements.
pulse energies that help increase effectiveness by freeing the animal's body from dirt.
Before the cardoa is saturated with dirt, it should be passed over the cushion, or another less aggressive surface, to clean it.
as many times as necessary.
At this stage, using a stiff brush and not a soft one, the manes and tails are brushed vigorously, strand by strand.
going up to the root of your insertion to clean and untangle them, inside and out, on the left and on the right.
We must pay attention that it is under the shorter, but stronger, hairs of the tail stump that the horse gets dandruff in crusts.
that bothers them a lot.
If it is very dirty or stained, the tail should be washed in a bucket with water and blue soap or shampoo.
Mane and tails subject to daily hygiene can be cleaned with appropriate mixed brushes (of the type that until recently were only
used for women's hair) with added advantages over the use of traditional combs.
Finally, in the finest phase, the brush removes residual dirt and restores the natural shine to the coat.
The dynamics of this phase are very specific, and to achieve it, one must perform a passing against the grain with each stroke or
shiver, to loosen the dirt, and another in favor to drag it, ending the movement by passing the brush against the
brush in the direction of the ground so that it does not become clogged by the accumulation of dirt.
The hooves should be cleaned at the end of the horse's grooming and not at the beginning so that in case the hooves get oiled they do not
remove all the dirt that has come off the horse during grooming and that lands on them due to gravity. Another reason is that horses
Many times they trample and step on the feces while being cleaned, which discourages its early execution at the beginning of the cleaning.
The cleaning of the hooves is more than thoroughly cleaning the lateral gaps (V) and the median (less deep) of the frog and the entire sole.
inside the horseshoe, removing any stone or hard object that may have become lodged or even stuck under the hoof, implies
the ability to lift the limbs, both front and rear, of the animal in an appropriate and safe manner.
For the horse to feel comfortable and secure in adopting a tripod attitude, it needs to be well grounded (stationary), that is,
with all four legs bearing equal weight of the body. Only under these circumstances should the rider ask the animal to
raise a member.
In the case of an anterior limb (hand) or posterior limb (foot), the rider must facilitate the transfer of the animal's weight to the
the opposite side of the limb that wants to lift, to do this it is enough to apply sufficient pressure on the shoulder or hip on that side to
that the animal does it calmly such that it manages to relieve and bend the member that one wants to lift.
By associating the command "lift" with the previous procedures, the horse gives its hand or foot without problems, in such a way that
Subsequently, it will be conditioned to raise the members only to the command of the voice, which is why it should always be used.
same command of 'raise' and not sometimes 'give' and other times 'lift' or any other term.
Knights with little experience or who are not familiar with a certain horse should always do so in a way
Clara, as previously described, and not any other that may cause doubts in the animal leading to development.
of characteristic difficulties.
We consider it unadvisable to use the technique of 'pushing the horse's shoulder or thigh with our shoulder', as in case of
sensitive and fearful horses will feel threatened and easily become nervous, which then makes proper execution difficult.
It is safe for this task, especially for less experienced riders or those who are not familiar with the horse.
The technique of pulling the hairs from the geldings, under the scrotum, so that the horse lifts its limbs, should only be used by
knights who enjoy being pulled by the ears when they have difficulty understanding.
Finally wash with a damp sponge the eyes, nostrils, mouth, anus, and vulva, and with an apron (mesh cloth) or cloth.
turco to dry these wet parts. These cloths after being damp can be used to wipe the entire coat of the animal, cleaning
thus the last traces of dust, leaving the horse shining.
Rational roughing
Desbastar =Domar =Amansar =Domesticar =Desbravar =Desemburrar = Civilizar = Exercitar = Instruir = Ensinar
Desbastador=Cavaleiro
The thinning should be based on the establishment of trust and, despite some believing that horseback riding is a technique or science,
others that is art, what technicians or artists have to achieve is to use their intelligence and rationality to be strong and
brutality ensures the delivery of the animal.
It would not be reasonable to have an absolute dominant relationship with the horse, as it is a living being that thinks, learns, and has emotions.
needs to mature (especially the colts and young horses).
Technical knowledge combined with passion for horses can be considered an art - the art of relating to the horse - where
the complicity between horse and rider is permanent.
Today, the technique has evolved and is gaining followers worldwide who identify with the concepts inherent to 'thinning'.
rational
Traditional logging, which was done aggressively and according to the cultural characteristics of regions and countries, is increasingly
but conditioned by the current understanding of animal welfare and the right to happiness of the future athlete – the horse.
The traditional taming, where some 'knights' tie the horse to the post or place a sandbag on top of it
The animal, until it bends, has its days numbered, despite this activity becoming a 'show' exploited by a 'business'.
profitable.
In rational desbaste, it is essential for the rider to have wisdom and sensitivity to treat the animal as a true friend.
partner – and always defend the concept that the horse is the "mirror of the rider".
Trust and respect for the horse are essential in the rational trimming, which is basically divided into three stages:
In the first phase, the horse is familiarized with the halter training procedures.
In the second phase, the rider conditions the animal to interpret command signals and adapts the equipment used in the
equestrianism.
The third phase begins when the horse is mounted and trained for the assimilation of riding actions.
It is worth noting that each horse has its own personality and often may require personalized technique, so it is not
It is possible to saddle two horses in the same way, although generally there are not significant differences in breaking horses.
of different races and abilities.
In the case of breeds specialized in certain functions, specific directions in work criteria may be justified.
from the roughing, but the initial phases are very similar for most cases.
Roughing up a horse is like educating a child; in some, a good slap solves it, in others it may cause them to ...
later in adulthood they exhibit risk behaviors (marginal).
The basic objective of the 'permanent discipline' is not to harm the animal indiscriminately, which does not mean that one should not...
be firm and, once in a while, give a timely scolding or thrashing to correct any attempt at misconduct and/or
clear explanation of dominant personality (the one who has to dominate is the man…).
Each knight has his method, but there are limits that must be followed strictly, because what everyone should want is to maintain
the interactive balance of the horse.
The knight must develop and use three qualities: sensitivity, perception, and intuition, so that the appropriate techniques
they must be used at the right time, otherwise they do not work.
After this "package" of traditional handling, it is common to place a long rope on the ring of the halter, allowing the colt to go.
fighting with these artifacts whenever stepping on the rope. After a few days, the knight can grab the end of the rope and go.
forcing the proximity with the animal, thereby ensuring the "basic domestication."
This type of handling practiced, usually with protests from the animal, ends up creating conditions for it to initiate a process of
if allowed to be led by hand and surprisingly most foals 'forgive' this type of handling and end up not
express any type of "grudge" in future manipulations.
After the 'head done,' the foals return to the field joining the 'piaras' of their respective sex and year, returning later, around
from 3 years old, to be manipulated for the actual thinning to begin.
The early handling of foals can and should be encouraged after birth.
This type of manipulation is only possible if the mares have a good relationship with humans, subduing their instinct and
maternal behavior towards the acceptance of the knight's proximity and manipulation.
Colts manipulated in the first 24 hours of life will have a different relationship with humans than the one that develops.
under the extensive conditions of traditional management.
In the case of mares subjected to controlled reproductive management, the handling of the foals during the various days of follicular control and
artificial insemination, they are suitable opportunities to establish early relationships with the foals.
Rameira and Canela 03-23-2007 Cinnamon 01-04-2007 Cinnamon 01-04-2007 Cinnamon 05-04-2008
Soy and Clove 26-03-2007 Soy and Clove 01-04-2007 Clove 05-04-2008 Clove 05-04-2008
Nowadays, in a 'pre-thinning' perspective, this work begins around 5 months of age or between 15 to 30 days.
before weaning separation (7 to 8 months). The idea is to teach the foal to allow manipulation through the halter, with minimal
possible mental stress.
In cases where the mothers of the foals are perfectly conditioned to the presence and handling of humans, the foals end up
to acquire the same maternal tranquility in face of the manipulations that are made (they accept being touched all over the body, they raise
hands and feet, finally, everything that the knight intends to do within the available time and patience), facilitating the
handling to the point that, in complete freedom, it is possible to put the halter on the colt almost without it noticing.
In our opinion, any attempt at manipulation and/or placing a big head must be successful, no matter how long it takes.
to delay, as the horse cannot disobey a rider's instruction.
It is from the moment the foal has properly put on and adjusted the halter that one should start leading it to
hand, next to his mother, enjoying the interaction that exists between them and that naturally results in the fact that the young
usually accompany the mother sideways.
Birth on 14-03-2008 Birth 01-04-2008 Born on 04-10-2008
Rameira and Duchess on 14-03-2008 Sejane and Dolores on 05-04-2008 Soy and Dakar on 30-04-2008
Starting from the second week onwards, the animal can be led ('pulled') by hand alone, at a slow speed.
-step.
In this first phase, the lessons aim only to teach the colt to walk in response to the command.
by voice or by the snap of the knight's tongue and slightly stretching the short lead of the halter,
accompanying the knight laterally.
Thus, it is necessary that the leading by hand is done in the appropriate way in which the rider must walk beside the horse, in a
intermediate position between your eyes and your shoulders, that is, slightly behind the head but in front of the garrote and the shoulder.
Personally, I like to guide the animals conditioned to an imaginary line that passes through my shoulders and their heads.
This work should always be assisted by a competent helper, who at least ensures that the colt moves forward with
the necessary frankness and do not forget to stop until the knight can
unlock in case of working alone (horse x knight = 1-0).
Sometimes the foals "get temperamental" entering an energy explosion that is important
control the conditioning of the relative position to the rider and the speed of the
progress should be managed by the action of the "thumb and index finger" with vibrations of
appropriate intensity to respect the knight's 'hand'.
The interaction between knight and helper is essential, but for this it is indispensable that
both are aware of what they are doing, so it is recommended that this be taken into consideration
the angle and distance that the helper makes with the horse will largely result in the
direction of your course, thus the effectiveness of your help.
After this initial thinning phase, the animals will be introduced into the program of
work physical conditioning to guide.
There are complete and extensive treaties dedicated to this type of work, due to its great importance and
complexity.
Therefore, it's not just about making an animal turn around the rider (drawing water from the well...).
The correct work requires skill and technique, and its performance depends on the level of trust established.
between the horse and the rider.
In this work, besides the reins, the whip and the voice of the knight are fundamental aids. The whip replaces the knight's legs.
when mounted giving the thrust, it must always be in good relation to the elastic tension of the guide. The voice is very
important to reassure.
This work should be carried out with frequent and calm transitions in tempo, then progress to more active tempos.
work on the guide should be done essentially at a trot.
The yearlings and young horses are unrolled to the lead before starting their daily riding work. Such a procedure will allow
that the horses stretch and relax their muscles making them more cooperative and attentive to commands and requests
knight.
MAIN PURPOSES
• It constitutes, by excellence, the initiation of the horse, as it progressively accepts a new one while maintaining obedience to the reins.
balance in the developments that will clearly move forward.
• Familiarize the horse with the man and the equipment, getting it used to saddling and also remaining calm when being ridden.
after warming up. Progressive development of a new balance with the rider's weight.
• Exercise the horse when, for some reason, it cannot be ridden. It allows to expend the accumulated energies.
establishment in live works, without fatigue, and, if well executed, without the danger of straining the limbs.
• Flex and relax the animal before starting the work of mounting. In this perspective, one should avoid the horse bolting.
pull or exaggerate your movements or, on the contrary, move lazily, dragging your feet. The goal is to keep you
at the desired pace, without tension.
• Treinar cavaleiros novos a sentar e a adquirir o equilíbrio indispensável a governar o cavalo com naturalidade. O instruendo,
with time, it adjusts to the horse and acquires a firmer seat, allowing the demands to be
increased, until you can, with your own aids, control your horse.
• Enhancing the work, as it allows the rider to closely observe their animal's gaits and act accordingly.
to correct and improve them, keeping the horse flexible and relaxed.
NECESSARY MATERIALS
For the execution of work with young and adult horses, one can use a
bit or a bridle head. The latter should only be used when the
the horse is already perfectly familiar with this type of bit. If
otherwise, there is a risk of provoking reactions and causing injuries in the mouth of
horse
The ideal, at the beginning, particularly in the case of foals, is for the sawtooth to be of the more type
simple, without a strap, just with a ring on the muzzle, made of leather or
any other durable material, fully padded with felt or wrapped
with a fine and smooth leather cover.
It is important that the headpiece fits perfectly to the horse's bevel, meaning that its muzzle sits below the bones of the
ganacha and not on the cartilage below. The face shields should be positioned far from the eyes and adjusted (graduated) in such a way that
never touch them (sometimes the reins twist outside touching the horse's eyes without the rider noticing). A
the saddle must be adjusted correctly so that the horse's breathing is not compromised.
In short, the knight must take all precautions to ensure that the headpiece fits well.
without gaps, which could cause movements forward and backward, making the
your action too violent, irritating the horse.
The knight must have a long and flexible whip with a fine lash, which allows for
intervene quickly and easily when necessary. Your action is limited to
to increase propulsion or correct a faulty position.
The guide tape must be soft and long enough to allow for the
horse describe with absolute relaxation a circle of fur
less than ten meters in diameter. In the end, it should have a handle that
It should be secured by the rider in order to prevent it from escaping the hand.
BASIC LEARNING
Before starting the work in a circle, it is essential that the horse learns to walk on hand, straight ahead.
In left-handed circular work, the guide must be held by that hand, at the appropriate length. The handle and the
the remainder of the guide must be wrapped in secure loops by the right hand, with the loops having the
length of approximately one meter (half a stride). The leash should never be wrapped around the hands. This
In this way, the rider will be able to easily, without getting in the way or contracting, lengthen or shorten the guide accordingly.
with the needs (type "fishing cart") and without danger of accidents.
The whip should be held by the hand that holds the rest of the reins, so that the lash is on the side.
of the little finger, therefore, turned backward. Thus, a twisting movement of the wrist will be enough for the
The knight should action the whip when necessary, without exaggerated movements that would frighten the animal.
they provoke disordered movements, instead of pushing it forward, which is its primary function.
After having reassured the horse by petting it, the rider commands "walk", pulling it forward,
slightly pulling the guide while making a tongue click; thus it moves,
accompanied by the knight, in the ring or on the track, executing a series of straight or curved lines,
interspersed and increasingly shorter.
The stops should be frequent, pronouncing the word 'ôôôh' and petting the horse during these.
stops.
When it is considered that the obtained results are desirable, one then moves on to the next side.
right, reversing the way of holding the guide and starting the work for the right hand.
It is important to highlight that at this stage the use of voice is a powerful aid and should be widely
used and developed. Horses have excellent hearing and become quite attentive to the voice, perfectly understanding the
orders, avoiding frequent movements/interventions from the rider.
It is important to always use the same words and, especially, the same intonation for the different commands. The horse
it will perfectly attend to what is desired of it, such as calming, changing the speed or pace.
The first objective is to teach the horse to move in a circle around the rider. If a circular guiding track is available, the
work becomes extremely easy.
You enter the track, guiding the horse by the reins and accompanied by one or two helpers (at least for the first few times).
moving in a way that places the horse directly on the edge of the track, next to the fence or delimiting web.
The horse is left with the on the periphery of the circle, who will hold it as if to lead it by hand, and one steps back until the
inside the track (center of the circle), facing the horse and, after all these preparations, it remains to grasp the reins and
the whip as previously described and start the work.
OBEDIENCE TO COMMANDS
At the command 'step', given by the knight, accompanied by a tongue click reinforced by a
light movement of the whip, the assistant moves forward at a pace, guiding the
horse by the lead, holding at the height of the head.
When executing a complete turn, it must end with the command "ôôôh". At the moment this
command is heard, the assistant grips the reins in such a way as to make the horse stop, having the
care to keep it straight on the track. As soon as the animal has obeyed, the helper pets it and rewards it with the voice 'baaa' or
now the ai is
This mechanism is repeated as many times as necessary, until the horse begins to
try to obey the commands of the same without waiting for the 'hints' from the helper.
Usually, three to four times are enough.
When the animal seems to understand what is desired of it, it commits to assisting.
that you let go of the leash, while remaining in the same place where you were, ready
to intervene if the horse tries to turn inward into the circle, back up or delay
obey.
If there are no setbacks, that is, everything proceeding as before - movement for
in front and high at command - the assistant starts to lag behind and to search
to approach the knight, always ready to intervene, as long as it becomes necessary,
however, trying to let the horse completely surrender to itself.
If the work is being carried out calmly and accurately, the animal will remain in
forward movement, at a steady pace, without hesitation. If you try to stop or slow down
movement without command, it will be enough to stimulate it with a click of the tongue or with a
whip cracking movement. This should restore the desired progress. If
try to stop and confront the inside of the circle, it will be the moment for the assistant to intervene,
correcting it in order to restore the desired progress.
There are also those who, in this first position, hold the guide while standing still, pivoting on one leg.
to the side where the horse circles, being assisted by an assistant who holds the whip
with the hand opposite the direction of movement, thus preventing the horse from wanting to go back
backward and ensuring that he moves forward. Rarely does this method not lead,
In the early attempts, the misunderstandings between the involved animals (horse, rider
and the helper).
The knight must have two permanent cares during this teaching:
1. That from the first lessons the horse gets used to keeping the rein (taut), without
force her;
2. Let it stand upright on the circle.
At this stage, the horse should be familiarized with the use of the long whip, aiming not to fear it. The rider should show it with much
calm, touching its body with the whip, while speaking and stroking the animal. The goal is to make it respect the whip only as
an impulsive aid and not as an instrument of punishment. The whip should never be used to mistreat the horse but rather until
as a distance grooming assistant running along the horse's back, neck, and entire body.
When these first lessons - moving at a walk and high - are confirmed, and usually one lesson is enough for that, it is
the time has come to teach the horse to work on the various gaits (walk, trot, and gallop).
TIMELY REWARDS
Put the horse in motion, at a walk, on the command 'walk,' given in a firm and calm tone, prolonging the first syllable, the
the knight swings the whip behind the horse, while at the same time taking a step towards its flanks. This
double threat usually causes instant obedience. If it does not occur, this command is repeated with more intensity until
to be obeyed, leading to an effective intervention of the whip if necessary. Many times the animal gets scared with the
whip movement and rushes forward. The greater care will be to open the hand to let the guide flow and give it freedom
to pass and take a circle of larger diameter.
At other times, he becomes frightened and tries to turn towards the direction from which he is supposed to be threatened. If that happens, the knight should
continue the repetition of the given commands, resolutely moving in the direction of their hips until obedience is achieved.
As long as the animal has responded to the command, we let it take a few steps, at least half a turn in the round pen.
and we try to replace it at the pace. To do this, we command 'step' while we vibrate the guide. The vibration of the guide
Accompanied by the command, repeated as many times as necessary, will quickly make you understand what is desired from it.
Then, you command "stop" for the horse to halt.
The complete lesson is repeated: step, high, step, high, as many times as necessary for the animal to perform it without
hesitations.
Having obtained this result, the next lesson is to teach it to you: stop, step, until it becomes automatic execution.
During these lessons, the knight should seek to reward, verbally, the horse whenever it does what is desired. If when asking
one stop, the animal remains straight on the track, one advances towards it, petting it and rewarding it, then retreating back to the
place where it was earlier. If the horse crosses, it should be corrected before going to reward it. If the rider, upon advancing,
the horse shows any movement, it becomes necessary to stop, calm it down, and straighten it out before reaching it. If, when returning to the
his place, the horse tries to follow him, stops, making the horse go back to the track and immobilize before returning to his place
in the center of the circle (roundel).
Many times, the moderation of the pace and the positioning of the horse is achieved in tighter circles.
which should be progressively increased (in a spiral), after successfully stabilizing the
attitude and the desired tempo cadence, as fast as possible, even as a way to reward the
requested effort.
As soon as the lesson of walking is well learned, one moves on to the trot and gallop.
Same progression:
One should avoid the transitions from the walk or halt to the canter, which only much later, when the animal is completely
set against the work to guide, it will be judiciously approached (only to be practiced by competent professionals).
It is advisable to stimulate the transitions within each tempo considering the dynamics.
"normal-ordinary", "work", "medium" and "wide". It is also greatly beneficial for the horse to
gymnastics of ascending and descending transitions, between the gaits of walk, trot, and gallop.
The diameter of the circle varies according to the amplitude of the movements and should be as wide as possible.
in order not to tire the horse.
It is advisable not to work for too long with the same hand, as well as to observe and even protect with
shin guards suitable for particularly fragile joints.
When the work on the rein is consolidated, the rider should be careful to start each new lesson from
from the center of the circle, ensuring that the horse leaves in a measured and rhythmic step to the periphery of it where
then it will proceed with the rest of the lesson as previously described. The knight reduces his own circle
until becoming almost motionless, having the horse framed between the arms/hands that control the action of
guide and the whip (type "slice of pizza").
It is not correct for the knight to accompany the horse (let alone the foal) in its circular movement.
staying permanently behind you, in the direction of the flank, as this will result in ellipses and ovals that are not circles and
Figures that have the corrections most suitable for the harmonious balance development of the horse.
The work at the guide, in a more advanced stage, can be done with fixed reins, never too tight, and done at good paces.
Cadenced movements are essential for good muscle development, as the horse shifts its weight to the hindquarters.
progressively, arranging the hindquarters beneath the mass without the overload of the rider's weight. The duration and amount of
working sessions with fixed reins depend a lot on the horse.
a) The horse leaves the reins loose - swing the reins vertically and then threaten with the whip in the direction of the horse's withers.
horse, in order to make it move away, intending the reins.
b) Horse that pulls the reins - energetic actions on the reins, pulling the horse's head inward.
circle with whip action on the hips to make them deviate. If the horse exerts force
with violence when in live proceedings, it is because there was haste in the initial progression; then it stops-
and one starts working again at a pace in a small circle that can gradually open up.
c) The horse decreases the circle - swinging the line horizontally to force the
your removal, or threatening him with the whip towards the
spades.
The horse does not show consistency in its gaits – energetic actions of the reins accompanied.
of the command 'ôôôh'.
The horse can present two ways to defend itself during work at the lead:
a) The horse refuses to move forward, stopping, turning to face the rider and backing away if the rider advances toward it.
direction:
The knight only has one way to act to correct it. Assuming that one wants the horse to work to the right hand, one reduces
the length of the guide and moves resolutely and quickly until it reaches the height of the right hip, a little back from the
the same. This action is supplemented by threat and, if necessary, the action of the whip on the flanks. As soon as the horse
move, give way to the guide so as not to hinder the movement and let it enter in a circle. A few turns, high, reward.
b) The horse refuses to work on a certain rein or suddenly changes rein. Assuming that it does not want to work on the
left
The correction is similar to the previous one: The rider shortens the reins, while trying, as quickly as possible,
take a position at the height of the left shoulder. In the meantime, your hand energetically acts on the guide, making it vibrate
from left to right.
Reinforcing these actions, as much as possible, with the whip action towards the left shoulder. The guide communicates.
similarly to the horse at the will of the rider: through slight horizontal oscillations, it moves away from the center; through more intense vibrations
Or less emphasized, the pace is moderated or the horse is stopped when it does not obey the voice.
If the work with the guide is well executed and developed with progressive demands, at the end of this training, the horse should show
se:
Calm and steady on the circle;
2. Supported, that is, keeps the guide tense, without letting it loose and without forcing it;
3. Frank transitions from one tempo to another at the simple indication of the voice;
4. Get closer to or move away from the center, according to the freedom granted.
In one word, keep light contact with the tense guide and balanced throughout the entire length of the arena or the track.
as later you should do it with the reins.
Many good things can be obtained through diligent work.
done but, also, many bad things can remain, sometimes
for the entire life of a horse that was disorderly
worked on the guide