Chapter 1O

Socializotion: Providing a
Mop to the Human World!

[Link]'e happens. Puppies bump their heads, step on bees, and get
sick. People accidentally step on tails and drop loud, clattering
l)ans on the kitchen floor. You can't protect your puppy from
l

cverything in life. He needs to learn to roll with the punches.

Socialization is interaction with life and all it has to offer, and
being able to adapt to its challenges. "It's all about surviving
clrors," as Dr. Karen Overall puts it. I

When accidents happen, be a good actor. Help your puppy it

get through them using the same principles you've been using so I

lar by staying in control. In an excited, upbeat voice, say, "Yay!

I dropped the pot! Here's a piece of cheese!" Or, "Oh, hooray,
I stepped on your tail-here's a piece of chicken!" Of course,
you'll be dying inside for being such a klutz and you'll want to
apologize and cuddle the poor guy. But do your best to suck it up I

and teach your puppy that life ain't no big deal. With repeated i

positive exposures to the same situation, he'll learn how to cope

in a balanced way. (Obviously, if you really hurt your puppy, get
aid immediately!)
Puppies need to explore. They need to meet people. The whole
purpose of this chapter is to help your puppy become acclimated
to the sights, sounds, and smells of the world in a safe way. But
the trick is not to baby your puppy. You want to let your puppy
say hello to people of all shapes, sizes, and mannerisms-as long
as they don't overwhelm her. It's up to you to decide your puppy's

109
 1 10 The Puppy Whispeler Socialization 11 1

sensitivity level. What you don't want to do is introduce an emo- rrrrportant than teaching him behaviors like sit, down, stay, come
tionally vulnerable puppy to good ol' Uncle Bob. He's the guy rrlrcn called, or walk nicely on the leash. Think of socialization
in the family who thinks he knows everything about dogs and, as .rr providing a map to a world that is alien to your puppy-the
soon as he sees your puppy, roughly grabs her while yelling in lrrrruan world. This "map" will lead her to everything she wants
abooming voice, "I've had dogs all my life. They love rasslin'. rn lif'e-safety, food, affection, play, and security. Socialization
Come here, Fido." ' iln be easy and fun.
Of the many goals you have for your puppy, put socialization
at the top of your list. By "socialization" we mean doing yoLrr' A Puppy's Developmental StcAes
absolute best to get your puppy used to, tolerant of. and posi- li r better understand the importance of socialization, it helps to
tively enjoying all of the people, animals, places, and situations look at the developmental stages of a puppy's life. In the 1940s
that he will be experiencing in his lif-e. We expect our puppies ,rrrtl 1950s, psychologists John Scott and John Fuller studied
to easily accept being lifted on to the vet's table and poked with tlrc physical and behavioral development of hundreds of pup-
a needle. We expect them to be patient while groomers douse ;,ics and dogs over a thirteen-year period. They identified three
them with water and shampoo,buzz them with frightening elec- ..1rccific periods in a puppy's development. Please note that the
tric clippers, and clip the nails on their sensitive paws. We expect ;rr:cs during which each developmental stage occurs vary some-
them to greet new, strange dogs ofall sizes and appearances as il' rVhitt from puppy to puppy and that "some of the stages overlap
they were long-time family members and not as intruders com- :r bit.
peting for food, space, and affection. We ask our puppies to be
friendly to outsiders coming onto their turf-hairy bearded men The Neonatal Period-Birth to Ttvelve Days
with loud booming voices as well as running, jurnping, shrieking The Neonatal Period starts at birth and lasts until the puppy
children; people in strange uniforms carrying large threatening rs approximately twelve days old. In this first period of physical
packages as well as strange wheeled creatures such as crying ;rrrd behavioral development, the eyes and ears are shut and the
babies in strollers, kids on roller blades, cyclists, cars, and lawn scnse of smell is still poorly developed, although the sense of
mowers. The list goes on. trrste is present. The effective inability to hear or see shuts new-
lxrrn puppies off from the world outside the nest, and therefore
kceps them relatively immune from psychological influence by
Taking the time and effort to socialize your puppy early on ('r)vironmental factors. Because of this early sensory isolation,
will pay off in huge dividends as he gets older. Socialization thc need for socialization is limited during the neonatal period.
increases the probability that your dog will be friendly, safe,
At this stage, touch is the most significant sense in terms of influ-
and welltempered.
crrcing future behavior so responsible breeders gently handle
lruppies in the litter for several minutes a day. Gentle lifting and
lrandling tends to produce a puppy who is less emotionally reac-
If you would like your puppy to be able to handle all of these live and more stable in later life, and who will better tolerate
experiences calmly and with aplomb, then it takes schooling. bcing held by humans (see Figure l0-l). If you are choosing a
School starts as soon as you get your puppy and the first sub- l)uppy from a breeder, it is important to ask the breeder if she has
ject is socialization. Socializing your puppy is actually more rlone this early handling.

t
 112 The Puppy Whisperer
Socialization 113

Figure 1O-1
\'('ntures into the big world outside the litter. The beginning of
tIr is period is marked by the opening of the eyes, which increases
tlrc puppy's ability to orient to the environment. The puppy starts
, lumsily walking, as opposed to crawling, but still doesn't ven-
ture very far from his mother. Although puppies still nurse at this
slage, the flrst puppy teeth start poking through the gums by the
t'nd of the third week and they are able to start eating semisolid
Iood. Some mothers will feed their puppies regurgitated food as
lxrrt of the weaning process. During this stage, puppies are able
to eliminate without being stimulated by the mother and start
rrlinating and defecating outside the nest. This is a crucial pattern
tlr:rt can be exploited for potty training later on.
A puppy will also begin to play with his littermates during
tlrc transition period, marking an interest in social contact with
others, in addition to the already-established relationship with
lris mother. This period ends with the opening of the puppy's
t'rrrs, evidenced by the appearance of a "startle response" to loud
sounds, such as a whistle or a hand clap. When he hears a loud
During the first few weeks of life
puppies should be gently handled sound, his ears will perk up and he will turn to the sound, per-
for several minutes each day. lrlps with a flinch. A puppy will also start wagging his tail dur-
rng this period, specifically in response to greeting people who
solicit his attention. This is evidence of a willingness and eager-
Most social behavior is centered around the mother during the
rrcss to make positive emotional connections with us humans and
neonatal period. The newborn puppy does not have the ability to
nrarks an increase in the puppy's need for "contact comfort." An
crawl far from the mother or the nest and his most purposeful
t'xperiment that underscored this desire for contact gave pup-
activity is directed toward nursing. At this age puppies respond
pics a choice between a wire dummy that dispensed milk or a
particularly to cold and react immediately if they lose physi-
e krth dummy that did not. Interestingly, the puppies consistently
cal contact with their mother or littermates by emitting a high-
prcferred the softer, more comforting cloth dummy to the milk-
pitched distress yelp. This alerts the mother that one of her pup-
tlispensing dummy.
pies has moved away from her, allowing her to quickly retrieve
Whereas the puppy was virtually oblivious to the world out-
him. In addition to nursing, the mother's nurturing also includes
sicle the mother and the nest in the neonatal period, by the end of
licking the puppy's anogenital region in order to stimulate the
tlre transition period she is equipped with brand new senses and is
defecation process.
cxtremely sensitive to the environment. In general, at the begin-
rring of the transition period, a puppy has difficulty learning that
The T[ansition Period-Tlvo to Three Weeks
rr particular sight (for example, a flashing light), a sound, or odor
Sometime between two and three weeks of age, apuppy transi-
',vill predict the arrival of food. However, by the end of this stage
tions from a life centered solely around his mother and gradually
the puppy's ability to make this kind of connection is essentially
 114 Thi. puppy Whispcre r
Socialization 1 1lr

the same as an adult dog's. If, during this period, you flash
a Iiglrr \ ltcr all, he does great with the family. He's friendly. playful, and
just before you give the puppy food, the puppy will
soon learrr [Link] would there be any problem with other people? To
that the light predicts the amival of food, una *iit wag his tail arrtr \()u" people are people, whether at honte or away, whether fam-
hurry over to his bowl. If the mother is regurgitating food, pulr
rl,,' or guest. But your puppy experiences something else-your
pies will learn that when the mother leaves the nest and returrs. lur'sts eue not you. Your guests are dift-erent. If your puppy uevel.,
she might have something yummy for them. In anticipation,
pulr ( )r ()nly rarely, experiences
unknown people entering his house, he
pies will jump up to lick rhe morher's mouth. This jumping
up ,,, rr ill not have enough information about whether the situation is
lick, incidentally, is likely the basis fbr the jumping Lp bJuui,,, 'rrood" or "bad.'' As an adult dog,
he will not know how tcl react.
that puppies exhibit toward humans later on, when we have
takc,, \rrrl all too often when a dog doesn't know how to react to some-
the place of the mother in the puppy's new famiry. They are
fzril tlrins, he depends on reactions that nature has preprogrammed for
ing back on a behavior they rearned during this transitional peri,tr
11i111-1lrn away fiom it or bite it (or variations in between).
which basically means, ,,take care of me."
Socialization Beyond Sixteen Weeks
The Socialization period-Three to Sixteen Weeks
Il'your puppy is older than sixteen weeks and hasn't been prop-
From the age of about three weeks to sixteen weeks, a puppy
,'rly socialized, don't give up. It is never too late! The socializa-
is like a sponge, absorbing all the experiences the worrd irr".r.
tion schedule below will help no mafter how old your puppy is.
This is the "critical socialization period', when your puppy gels
Note: Social skills need maintenance, just like any other skills.
her first impressions of which situations are "good," tt ailr,
sor" lrrurgine rnaking fi'iends in nursery school, playing and learning
and rewarding, and which are "bad," threatening, or painful.
Thc lrow to get along, and then having no contact with anyone out-
information she gathers and processes during ttris perioa aff'ects
sitlc your family for another fifteen years or so. you wouldn't
how she will react to certain sights, sounds, and sensations as
al) lre able to function very well. The same is true of your puppy.
adult dog.
\rrci1li2n1lon is an ongoing process.
Let's say a puppy has repeated positive experiences with peoplc
coming over to his hor,rse on a daily basis. Guests give him [Link]
The Sociolization Process
treats, play fun games with him, and refrain from doing
anything I lrcre are five simple rules to socialization:
frightening or too overwherming. A puppy in this situation
wirl
be more likely to have rifelong positive associations with guests
1. Don't coddle your puppy. Socialization is all about cre-
coming over and, as an adolescent and adult dog, wiil theiefore
ating an environment where a puppy can gain confidence
be more likely to greet guests happiry and in a fiiendly manner.
in himself and his abilities. Do not pantper your puppy as
But what if a puppy has a single bad experience with gu"rt,
.o.- that can easily lead to neediness. The idea is to provide
ing over to the house? Maybe they made roud noises and sudden
him with opportLrnities to do it things for himself, not to
movements toward him that frightened him. That pllppy might
do something for him. Some puppies socialize to their
greet future guests with fearful or aggressive behavior.
new environment very quickly. while others need extra
But by far the most common mistake in raising a puppy is that
time and experiences to adjust. The socialization exercises
the puppy is given no experiences with guests coming
over to the listed below are to be used as a template. Always be ready
house. When leading busy lives, most people don't glve
much, if to offer more challenging situations br-rt keep in mind your
any, attention to inviting guests over for the sake of their puppy.
plrppy's sensitivity level.
 1 l6 The l'uppy Whisperer Socia lization 117

2. Make it positive. Link socializationexercises with a huppy. r rscs ofl page 129 to continue to build your puppy's confidence
friendly attitude and. as much as possible, with food! Fcctl rr ncw situations.
her treats at the vet; have the vet feed her treats: f'eed hcr Note: If at any point during these exercises your puppy shows
treats when guests come over; have guests feed her treats: ,rrrrrs of fearful or aggressive behavior, do less or stop the exer-
feed her treats when the mail carrier arrives. . . . You gct ( r\c cntirely. By "do less" we mean lower the intensity of the
the idea. Some people are concerned that constantly giving , \l)crience by creating more distance between your puppy and
food treats means they are raising a dog who will always tlrr' person, animal, or place, and by making sounds softer. move-
require treats or they won't listen. Don't woffy about that. nrr'nts slower, and touches lighter. [f the f'earful or ag-eressive
As you'll learn, it's easy to wean your puppy off food treals lrt'lravior continues, end the session. This is especially impor-
later on. t,urt il'your puppy is between eight and ten weeks old-the "fear
3. Keep it short. Shorter sessions keep things fiesh, interest- rrrrprint period"-when negative experiences tend to have a big-
ing, and exciting. They also lessen the possibility that youl lt'r' irnpact on your puppy's development. If fearful or aggres-
puppy will feel overwhelmed by the situation. ,rrc behavior continues to be a problem, consult a professional
4. Make it frequent. Just as shorter sessions keep things trriner or behaviorist as soon as possible.
fresh, frequent sessions build coping skills and go a long Many of these exercises require that you take your puppy to
way toward strengthening the trust between you and your. .r pLrblic place. If other dogs frequent the area, it's important that
puppy. A good rule of thumb is to give your puppy three to \'()ur puppy be protected by imrnunization. (See "lnfectious Dis-
five diff-erent socialization experiences every day. ,'rrse and Immunizations" in Chapter 15.) If your puppy is not
5. Keep it safe. As you go through the week, you'll be expos- r t't fi,rlly immunized, take walks only in places that are reason-
ing your puppy to more and more situations. Here are somc :rlrly snfs and hygienic. [n other words, don't walk your puppy in
safety considerati ons : ;rrcas where you know there is a lot of dog poop. Even if you are
rrrrcertain about the inf-ectious disease risk in a particular area,
. Outdoor play sessions are held in f'enced-in areas. likc a public park, you can still do the greeting exercises, but do
. Shade and water are always available. so while holding thc puppy in your arms.
. Indoor play areas don't have slippery floors. Do not let fear of disease prevent you from doing this
. No electrical cords, lamps, vases, or other objects that ('\tremely important socialization work. Robert K. Anderson,
could be knocked over. I )VM. has written an open letter to all veterinarians that is posted
on lhe Association of Pet Dog Trainers Web site. He points out:
Below is a sample plan of how you might organize a week's "'l'he risk of a dog dying because of infection with distemper or
worth of socialization activities with your young [Link] can, prrrvo disease is far less than the much higher risk of a dog dying
of course, substitute the suggested times with times that better tt'uthanasia) because of a behavior problem Because it is
fit your schedule. No matter what your schedule, put in the extra tlce med so important to start socialization early to take advantage
time and eflbrt for you and your puppy's sake! ,rl'this special window of tirne in a puppy's life, Dr. Anderson
The Puppy's Daily Suggested Routine at the end of Chapter \uggests beginning at eight or nine weeks of age.
5 shows you how you can fit socialization exercises into your Note: In Chapter l5 we'll give more details on infectious dis-
schedule. As weeks go by, use the Additional Socialization Exer- r'lrse and vaccinations.
 I 1 B 'l'hc F,uppy Wh isperer
Socialization I 1f)

Sociolizotion Schedule for the First Week yrct him while yor,r give him treats. Then have your [Link] give
Here's a basic outli'e or template of how various suggestc(r lrinr treats. If your puppy is thoroughly enjoying this. have
socialization activities can ht into your puppy's daily routinc.
vour fiiend throw a ball or squeaky toy. When play is {inished,
such as when you're f-eeding him, when friencls come over, whcrr
sive another treat. End the session on a high note.
yoli go fclr a walk, and so on. choose the socialization activities
that will realistically fit into your lilestyle. These are all things
lntroducing the Mail Carrier: With yoLrr plrppy on a leash
you will be doing anyway. Keep in rnincl that you want to var-y by yonr side,
-eo
out to her potty spot. After eliminating. take
the intensity of the experiences to fit vour pllppy's sensitivity lrer to the mailbox and stand about six f'eet away. When the
level.
rnail carrier begins walking toward yoll. start giving yor-rr
l)uppy a steady stream of treats. Continue cloing this until the
Day One rnail camier leaves. lt's much more likely that tomorrow yollr
l)uppy will be pretty happy about the mail coming! However,
Meals: Begin with Hand Feeding: Each time you f-eed to<Jay. rl'at any time your puppy seerls apprehensive about tl-re rnail
put your puppy's food in his dish and sit on the floor with thc
carrier with his strange uniform and big bulky bag, increase
dish in your lap. Hand f-eed your puppy one bit of food at l your distance from him. Postal workers are officially advised
time. If you are t-eeding your plrppy wet food or a raw dier. by the Postal Service to not pet cir give treats to dogs on their
the f-eeding process may become a little gooey, so yoll can nrLrtes, so please don't ask your camier to do either of those
use a spoon. Some people grind the wet fbod or raw food; il
things.
you do so, let it slightly harden in the fieezer, and then cut it
up and tbllow this same routine. Harve other household mem_ ()o for a Walk: When other people approarch, stop and
bers participate in the hand f'eeding. This will help your puppy -eive
treats to your puppy Lrntil the person passes by. If someone
acclimate to people being around the foocl bowl. As you g,, stops and asks to pet your puppy, ask if he woLrld be willin_e
through the week, you'll see that this is a step-by-step [Link]
to give your puppy a treat first. After the petting, give another
that pronrotes saf-ety so yolrr puppy will be less likely to try
lreat. Better yet, arrange for a friend to meet yor_r somewhere
to protect his food by growling or biri'g if a child or another
on your walk and do this petting and treating ror-rtine with
aninial approaches. As with all the other experiences in this your friend.
schedule, you will slowly progress, step by step, one day at
a time, to different procedures. Eventually, he wiil learn that
Gentle Handling: Collar Hold: Sit on rhe floor with your
people aren't a threat to take food away; they are the source
plrppy during relaxation time, before going to bed. You can
of all goocl things! watch television, or talk with family while doing these exer-
cises. Gently slip your fingers under your plrppy's collar and
Introduce Your Friends: Have your fiiend toss your puppy a hold it, simultaneously giving a treat and then releasing the
treat as soon as she comes in the door. Let your puppy decide
collar. Repeat this many times. You want your puppy to asso-
fbr himseif if he wants to approach your friend or not. If your
ciate being held by the collar as a good thing, so thar you can
puppy approaches your fiiend and seems happy and comfort_
easily manage her in situations where you need control. Be
able about it, as most puppies will, ask your friend to gerrtly
gentle with the collar: no rough grabbin-e. jerking. or twist-
 120 'Ihe puppy Whisperer Socialization 121

ing. After each collar hold, let your puppy roam around fbr.:r puppy on leash unless the area is fenced and dogs are allowed
minute in the room, then gently take hold of her collar agairr. ofT leash. If you have children living in your home, do the
simultaneously giving a treat, and then again releasing tlrr. same kinds of exercises with them and your friends, but do
collar. You are getting your puppy to look forward to your cxercises with unfamiliar children as well, so that your puppy
approach and hold: Not only does she get a treat for beirrll doesn't discriminate between your children and all other chil-
held by the collar, she also gets her freedom again immecli dren. Kids and dogs together should always be supervised,
ately after. It's a no-lose situation! no matter how confident you might feel about your puppy's
and/or your child's behavior. Dogs and children can behave
Day Tlvo crratically and one bad incident can result in a hurt child or
puppy, and perhaps a lifetime of continuing fearful or aggres-
Meals: Continue Hand Feeding: Today you will continue tr sive behavior toward children.
hand feed your puppy from the bowl as you did yesterday.
Introducing the Mail Carrier: How are things going? Is
Meeting Children: Go to a park where children are playing. your puppy showing signs of friendliness and staying in posi-
Stand some distance away from the kids with you. puppy ,i,, tion or is your puppy acting fearful? Depending on the answer
a leash. The children will be yelling and running. As your to this question, continue to give the puppy treats. Once again,
puppy watches, give him a steady stream of treats. If he seerns if your puppy is acting fearful, increase the distance from the
comfortable, move a little closer to the children and continuc mail carrier, as you continue to give treats.
the treats. You can continue to move closer and give treats.
little by little, as long as your puppy does not cower, try to Introducing More Strangers and Other Dogs: Walk to a
run away, hide behind you, tuck his tail, growl, and so on. ll' park or area where you know other people walk their dogs. If
any of the children express an interest in petting your puppy. you see someone else walking a dog, politely ask if his dog
make sure you explain the rules: one at a time, without..o*,t_ is friendly and if it's okay if your puppy says hello. Keep the
ing around; pet under the chin, gently; and give a treat to thc leash loose as the two dogs interact-this might mean having
puppy immediately afterward. If at any time during these to move around quite a bit as your squirmy puppy jumps and
encounters with children your puppy shows any apprehension, plays around the other dog. Many people feel apprehensive
move farther away with the puppy while talking happily and about having their dogs meet unfamiliar dogs, not knowing if
treating him. If he continues to show any fearful or aggres_ they're safe. The problem is, if you restrain your puppy and
sive behavior, end the session immediately. If your puppy is he starts pulling to get to the other dog, he can get frustrated
biting or showing extreme anxiety, contact a professionui Aog and even more excited. To him, it makes no sense being held
trainer who uses only positive methods and, in the meantime, back. Being restrained often communicates to your puppy
keep everybody safe, including the puppy, by keeping your that the other dog must be a threat. This can lead to what's
puppy away from kids. known as leash aggression . . . your dog is fine off leash but
If all goes well with the kids, keep it short and finish on aggressive on leash. So keep it loose! If you feel apprehen-
a high note by going to another part of the park where you sive at all about your dog meeting another dog, it's better to
can play a quick, fun game with a toy. Be sure to keep your avoid saying hello. Afler a minute or two of greeting, give
 I'2'2 The Puppy Whisperer Socialization 12"3

your puppy lots of praise and a treat and continue your walk. Figure 10-2
You will probably find that getting to meet another dog is rr
huge reward fbr your puppy in and of itself, so that you don't
have to give him treats. Besides, you don't know if the other.
dog has any fbod aggression problems, so it's best to avoirl
involving treats anyway. If your puppy shows any fearful or
aggressive behavior while meeting another dog, move away.
Many cities have ofl--leash dog parks, but they involvc
large risks for puppies urrder six months old. Some dog parks.
in tact, have policies against allowing young puppies in (sec
the section on "Dog Parks" in Chapter 4). For off-leash play
in a more controlled environment, make a play date and sign
up for a puppy class ! (See Day 4 and Additional Socialization
Exercises.)

Gentle Handling: Lifting and Holding: Warm up with some

collar holds, as you practiced last night. Now put your hand
under your puppy's chest and lift him off the ground. Hold To get your puppy used to being
hirn to your chest for a split second (see Figure l0-2).If your held and restrained practice hold-
puppy squirms, wait until he stops squirming before releasing, ing her firmly but gently until she
relaxes. When you feel her muscles
and immediately praise him and give him a treat. Normally
relax, say'bkay"and give her a treat.
we do not use physical force to hold a dog in position because
positive training does not force a dog to submit. Rather, our
goal is to teach a dog to willingly cooperate. Therefore, it Day Three
is critical that you do this handling exercise correctly. Hold
yolrr puppy firmly but not tightly and release him the instant Meals: Begin Feeding in the Bowl: Today, place your puppy's
he is still. To make this even easier for your puppy, give him food dish on the floor in front of her and put one bit of fbod
a treat when you release him. He will quickly learn to relax into the bowl. Wait for her to eat it before dropping another.
and actually enjoy being restrained. By teaching the puppy to Do this until the entire measured amount is finished.
relax when being held, he will better "roll with the punches"
later in lif-e. Take it slowly and don't push. This lifting exer- Introducing More Friends: This time, ask your fiiend to
cise prepares your puppy for being lifted by others-such as knock or ring the doorbell. At the sound of the knock or bell,
children, the vet, or the groomer-who may or may not have give your puppy a treat. Once your friend enters, repeat the
good handling skills. routine from Day One.
 124 lhe puppy Whisperer Socialization 125

Go for a Walk: Go to a place where a number of people an.

congregated. Keep your distance from the crowcl and givr. Remember, Don't Coddle Your Puppy
your puppy a steady stream of treats. As your puppy gcls All socialization exercises should be introduced at an inten-
more comfortable, gradr-rally move closer and continue to givt, sity that challenges but doesn't scare your [Link] want a
treats, until your puppy can be in the midst of a crowd [Link] confident puppy; not a needy puppy. lf your puppy is already
any discomfbrt. At any sign of apprehension from your puppy. frolicking through the adventures that are before him, skip
however, move farther away again. continue your walk-arrr,r the easy stuff and just have fun.
continue to treat when other people approach. continue t.
look for fiiendly dogs to greet on leash.
Day Four
Gentle Handling: Add Holding paws: Warm up with rr
f-ew collar holds, then give your puppy a treat. Gently holtl
Meals: Add Food to Bowl While Puppy Eats: Today, for each
and lifi your puppy a few times, as you did yesterdoy, therr
rneal, put the bowl on the floor and drop a handful or spoon-
give a treat. Now, lift a paw and gently squeeze it in your
lLrl of food into it. While he's eating, drop more food into
palm. simultaneously giving your puppy a treat. Repear
the bowl. Do this five to ten times until he has finished eat-
this with the other three paws, then start again with the firsr
ing his rneasured amount fbr this mpal. Include all members
paw, until you have lifted and squeezed each paw severll
of the household in this feeding process. On day three, you
times. Always give a treat after handling each paw. If your
were putting food into an empty bowl and now you are put-
puppy is struggling to pull fiee, or nipping at your hancls
ting food into the bowl while the puppy is earing. This helps
while you do these paw exercises, try just touching the paws
your puppy acclimate to hands coming toward the bowl while
with your finger for an instant while the paw remains on thc
he is eating.
ground, then treating. Your goal is to start at a point where
your puppy is comfbrtable enough to remain still. As your
More Socializing with Other Dogs: Have a play date. Invite a
pltppy grows relaxed about having her paws touched by :r
liiend over who also has a puppy for an ofT-leash play session.
finger, without fiinching or nipping, genrly hold the paw irr (If you don't know anyone with a puppy, invite a friend who
the tips of your {ingers and give a treat. Gradually progress
has a friendly adult dog who likes to play with other dogs.)
to lifiing the paw, then to lifiing the paw and squeezing it.
You accomplish two socialization tasks at once here: creating
Paws tend to be very sensitive, so don,t worry if it takes
positive associations and social skills with houseguests and
you many days. or even weeks, of exercises to gradually ger
other dogs. Once the puppies are off-leash and playing, don't
your puppy used to having her paws lifted and touched. In
be alarmed at the wrestling and mouthing-that's how pup-
the meantime, yoll will have to refrain from actually clip_
pies play. There will be a lot of back-and-forth interaction,
ping your plrppy's nails. You may get to start clipping by ttrc
with the puppies taking turns chasing each other, being on top
end of the week (see Day Seven, below) or you may havc
when wrestling, making soft contact with their mouths, and
to wait a few weeks, depending on how quickly your puppy
so on. Take breaks every few minutes to allow the puppies to
adjusts. But the lifetime payoff fbr your patience wilL be
rest and to avoid getting them overly aroused. If one of the
enormous--a dog who accepts nail clipping without strug_
puppies bullies the other without letting the other "win," or if
giing, hollering, or biting.
one of the puppies is constantly hiding and squealing without
 126 The puppy Whisperer
Socialization 127

any attempt to i'itiate play, interrupt the play session. Aftcr

treat. Now lift your puppy's paw and touch it with her nail
a few minutes of cool down time, allow the puppies to play
clippers, then give a treat. Repeat three to five times; mi:rke
again. If the lopsided situation continues, then one of the pup
sure to touch all four paws.
pies clearly is not having fun and the session should end.

Day Six
Go for a Walk: Repeat the exercises you have been practic
ing all week meeting people, dogs, children, and ,o on.
Meals: Taking Your Puppy's Food Away: Fill yoLrr puppy's
bowl with a food that is of lesser value to hirn than his nor-
Gentle Handling: Contin'e Lifts, Holds, and paw Touches.
mal meal. An example would be to use a handf'ul of kibble.
Yesterday you gave him treats while he was being touchecr;
Put the bowl down and let him eat. As he eats, pick his bowl
now yolr will give him a treat after every exercise.
up from the floor and drop an extra-tasty treat inside. such
as chicken, turkey, hamburger, or cheese. Then put the bowl
Day Five
down again. Repeat this five to ten times. Congratulations!
You have taught your puppy that being approached while he
Meals: Teaching Your Puppy to Leave His Food While Eat_
is eating and having his bowl taken away is one of the best
ing: Today, put one-half of your puppy's usual morning meal
things that could happen to him."No food guarding problerns
in her bowl and place it on the floor. While your puppyls eat_
here-the puppy learns that when someone takes his fbod
ing. place an extra special treat like a piece of cheese -or boilerr
away, it is replaced by something even better.
or roasted chicken next to the puppy's bowl ancl say "leave it"
or "drop it" as you do so. Wait fbr your puppy to take the treat
Go to the Vet's For Fun!: Who says a visit to the vet's office
and then repeat this process five to ten times until the she has
needs to be all poking, prodding, and sticking with needles?
finished all the fbod in her bowl.
Drive to the vet's, sit down in the waiting room, feed your
puppy treats, and pet and play with him. Ask the receprion-
More Socializing with People: To get your puppy used to
ist if she would be willing to give your puppy a treat. You
strange appearances, put a hat and sunglasses on and give your
want a visit to the vet's office to be viewed as a positive,
pllppy treats and play with her. After a few days of doing this,
fun experience so that your puppy won't fear the place as so
invite a friend over and ask hirn to wear a hat o^ungl-urr..,
many do.
or invite a t'iend who has a beard. unusual "additions" to a
person's face can be frightening to a puppy who has never
Go for a Walk: Meet lots of people, dogs, and kids. Give
seen them befbre. Repeat the same process you did with other
treats.
friends earlier in the week.
Gentle Handling: More Touches with Nail Clippers: Gently
Go for a Walk: Meet lots of people, dogs, and kids. Give treats.
lifi your puppy a few times, hold his collar lightly, give his
paws a few light squeezes, then give a treat. Touch a nail with
Gentle Handling: Adding Nail Clippers: Conrinue lifts, col_
the nail clippers but do not clip the nail yet. Repeat this for
lar holds, and paw touches, following each exercise with a
each one of his nails on each of his paws.
 128 I'he puppy Whisper,er Socialization 129

Day Seven tlrt'task is easier, since you can see where the pink vein begins.
l'rrppies with black nails present more of a challenge. Clip just
Meals: Continue to Take your puppy,s Food Away: Now ,'rrough so that the tips of the nails do not scrape along the floor
you will progress to an intermittent schedule by occasionally rr lre n your puppy walks. If you have any doubts as to how short
picking up your puppy's bowl while she is eating, dropping in t. rlip, you might ask a professional groomer to demonstrate it
an extra-valuable treat, such as chicken, turkey, hamburger. t,) vou. Groomers are very confident and quick when they clip
or cheese. Then place her bowl back on the floor. Incorpoiatc rr;rils. The puppy picks up on the confidence level and this helps
this routine of occasionaliy picking up the food bowr and put- r() relax him. If you are hesitant and unsure, your puppy will
ting a special treat into it once or twice a week fbr the rest o1' 1'rek up on that too. But before going to the groomer, be sure
your dog's life. tllrt your puppy is ready by doing all the preparation work to
rt'lax her.
Introduce More People: Invite several guests over your You did it! You did the best thing you could have ever done
house, say for Sunday brunch. Have everyone give treats and lor' !oul' puppy by completing a week's worth of socialization
play with the new puppy. ('\crcises. You helped her start to assimilate to the world she is
loing to live in for many years to come. Your took a huge step
Gentle Handling: Adding Clipping of the Nails: Warm up rrr the direction of preventing debilitating fearful and aggressive
by lifting each of your puppy's paws and touching each nair Irchavior. Your work is not over yet, though. As the weeks and
with the nail clipper, but don't clip yet. Give your puppy a rrronths go by, continue to practice the exercises you practiced this
treat after touching each nail with the clipper. If your puppy is u cek. In addition, introduce new people, places, and situations to
completely relaxed about this procedure and does not pull her your puppy by replacing some of the items in the table above with
paw away, struggle, or chew on your hands or the clippers, rlcms from the list below. The principles remain the same: keep
you can try actually doing some clipping. Are you ready? A rt positive (friendly voice and highly valued food treat), keep it
dog's nails (like ours) are very sensitive. If you clip the nair shoft, make it frequent, and keep it safe. Progress slowly, in small
too short you can cut the vein or nerve and cause bleeding, as stcps. If your puppy ever balks at where you're going, change the
well as a lot of pain. One bad experience can turn your dog rvay she feels about it by playing "find it" (see Chapter l9). If this
off to nail clipping for a long time. Add ro rhis rhe fact that rloesn't work, it's okay to gently pull but never jerk your puppy. If
puppy nails are smaller and therefore the vein and nerve are nccessary, you can pick your puppy up.
even closer to the nail tip than in an adult dog. So play it safe!
When you clip tonight, clip only the tiniest, most miniscule Additionol Sociolizotion Exercises
piece of nail off rhe tip. Every rime you clip a little piece off We are going to get you started with each of the additional social-
one of your puppy's nails, make a very big deal by praising ization exercises below and then you can progress at your own
super-enthusiastically as you give a treat. rute. Just keep in mind that it is not necessary or advisable to try
to get your puppy used to a new situation in one session, espe-
As the weeks go by and you feer more comfortable about e ially if it is something she is nervous about. On the other hand,
nail clipping, you will be able to take a little more off the tip sorne puppies are so fearless that they have no problems with any
of the nail. Always exercise caution. For dogs with clear nails of these situations.
 130 Tho puppy Whisperer
Socializalion 1 31

Introducing the car: If yoLrr puppy already likes riding irr

the car, as rnost puppies do, yoLr can eliminate this
Walking on slippery surfaces: Lay down a trail of tretrts
exerc'isc. rcross the floor, d la Hansel and Gretel, by placing a trail of
If yor,rr plrppy has never been in a car or is uncomfortablt.
srnall treats, spaced closely together, leading to the slippery
with it. start by gentry rifting her and pracing her on the scirr
srrrf'ace. Give lots of praise as he takes each step, eats a treat,
and
-qivi'g her a treat. Don't close the car door or start tht. rund advances ever closer to the scary surface. If your puppy
engine. Play a short game with a favorite toy and give
hcr lpproaches the slippery area and then backs up again, that's
treats as yor-r play. Then Iift her out of the car and
start ovcr okay-just place another row of treats leading to it. If yoLr
Repeat this rortine three times and do two or three
sessiorrs clon't push or force him in anv way, in subsecluent sessions. he
a day as it fits your schedule. After several sessions,
if your will gain confidence and start to approach more closely. When
pltppy seents relaxed, yoLl're ready to start the engine. placc
he comes right up to the threshold of the slippery area with-
her in the car, give her some treats, play with her, but
don,t out any hesitation, extend the trail of treats onto the slippery
go anywhere. Just keep the engine going for a few
minutcs area itself. Another suggestion is to put small rubber-backecl
while you happily talk to your puppy while feeding her
rrea{s or non-skid rugs close enough together across the slippery
inside the stationary car. Again, when your plrppy is
relaxetl l'loor so that your puppy doesn't have to have four paws on
while the engine is rr-rn'ing, it's time to start moving.
At this the slippery surface at once. Use the same Hansel and Gretel
point, most puppies will be ready to go for a ridel your.
If treat placement from one rug to another. Over time, gradu-
puppy is uncomlbrtable when the car starts moving,
make thc ally extend the space between the rugs until your puppy gains
trip short-like down the driveway and back (reilly!) or to
the corner and back. Gradually add more and more
confidence and is eventually able to walk across the entire
distancc surface.
to your trips. Note: For extremely sensitive puppies,
there arc
sorne [Link] ul herbal products on the market ihat
will settlc Going up and down stairs: Start with one step frorn the top
yolrr pLrppy's stomach. If your puppy is extremely
sensitivc (going up stairs) and one step from the bottom (going down
and won't tolerate any car riding, calr a professional
trainer t. stairs). Treat reward each step your puppy takes. Note: Only
assist yon in this process.
practice on carpeted or non-skid surfaces!
Go to puppy class: One of the best preparations you
can make Visiting the groomer's
tbr yoLrr puppy's smooth social adjustment is to enroll
(see "Go to the Vet's," above): Visit
him in the groomer's shop without actually leaving your pr-rppy there
a puppy kindergarten class. A puppy class provides unique
socialization opportunities with novel peopleand clogs, for -erooming. Talk happily, treat, pet, and play in the waiting
since area. Ask the groomer if she would be willing to give your
everyone is there for the same purpose. Since youi
puppy pllppy a treat. Then leave. On a return trip, see if the groomer
loves riding in the car now, the ride to class i, u g."ut
n.s would be willing to put your puppy on the table without actu-
opportunity to rake a littre bit of a longer trip. The ieward
to ally grooming her. Ask the groomer to give her treats, show
your puppy fbr riding in the car roday is that he gets
out and her some of the grooming tools, and perhaps touch her with
has an hour of fun, learning, treats, and playing
with other some of them, give her more treats, and then end the session.
puppies. With all the treats he got in class, your puppy
can
probably skip the midday meal, bur don't f-orget
io ulrit tt," Having ears cleaned (see also "Gentle Handling"): Start by
potty spot when you arrive home.
touching the ears lightly and treating on each touch. Progress
 132 Thc puppy Whisperer Socializat,ion 133
lre able to reduce the reward down to a single treat, just as the
to holding the ears for longer periods of time, flapping
therrr t'lr is passing you. If your puppy looks at you when the car
back, and so on.
Progress frorn gently handling the ears to doing l)lsses,.jackpot!
it whilc
a cotton ball is in your other hand and a bottre
of eir cleancr l,arger crowds of people: Follow the same procedure as
is open on the floor in fi-ont of you. Give a treat,
as always. with small crowds (see "Go for a Walk" on Day Three of the
and repeat many times. Now put some cleaning
liquid on ih" socialization schedule), gradually increasing the number of
cotton ball itself', while you handle an ear with the
other hancr. people to whom you expose your puppy at one time.
Treat and repeat.
Once your puppy is comfortable having his ears
handlecl. lilderly people and people walking with canes: Some dogs
as well as with the sights and smelrs of ear cleaning, touch
his lcact fearfully to people who do not walk in the same way as
ears with a wet cotton ball and then give him
a treat. Gradu_ the majority of people with whom they come in contact. If
ally progress to longer periods of ear- cleaning, always giving
a treat when you finish.
,you encounter someone walking slowly, irregularly, or with
the aid of a cane or walker, try to keep your distance at first
while happy talking and treating. If your puppy seems com-
Having lips lifted and teeth inspected (see also ..Genflc
fbrtable, gradually decrease the distance while you continue
Handling"): Start [Link] your puppy,s muzzle lightly
to happy talk and treat.
with the fingertips and treating. progress to placing
two, then
three, then four fingers on the muizle, treating
&ery time. Vacuum Cleaners and Other Moving, Noisy Objects
Finally, progress to laying your palm on the top
of you. prp_ The following, more in-depth protocol should be used with
py's nose, and draping your fingers on one side of
the muzzle vircLrum cleaners, lawn mowers, baby strollers, wheelchairs,
while your thurnb is on the other side. Jackpot by giving
sev_ pcople on crutches, and any other strange objects that make
eral treats, one after the other. progress to liiting yo"u,
p.[py,r; rroise or move strangely. Some puppies don't have any prob-
lips with your fingertips for one second, rhen treat.
Lrii itre lcms with these distractions. in which case you can ignore this
lips for two seconds, then five, then ten, and so on.
crrtire process. Always check for your puppy's comfort level and
lcactions.
The rustling of a plastic bag: put bag on the floor
with treats
on it. Pick up the bag and give a treai. Next, rustle
the bag a Level One
little and then give another treat, and so on.
Step One: When the puppy is not in the room, lay out treats
Passing cars: Start as far back from the street as you
can, in Hansel and Gretel fashion leading up to the vacuurn, which is
with your puppy on leash at your side. As soon as you
spot turned off. Bring the puppy in and let her explore. If the puppy
an approaching car, 100 feet away or more, start giving
your goes right up to the vacuum, eating all the treats as she goes,
puppy a steady stream of treats until the car has puir"O.
nog_ progress to the next step. If your puppy seems hesitant, continue
ress gradually to moving on to the sidewalk,
bui never closlr laying out the treats for a f'ew days. Hesitant puppies normally
than three feet away from the curb. Then progress
to delaying stery outside the critical distance of six feet from the object they
the treats until the approaching car is nfty-teet u*uy,
in"i are afraid of.
twenty-five feet away, then ten feet away. Eventually ytu
will
 184 The puppy Whisperer Socialization 135

Step Two: Touch the vacuum and simultaneously

treat y'ur ,\tep Two: "Look for the Look." Ask your puppy to sit (or lie
puppy' Repeat five to ten times. Repeat several
sessions as neces ,lowt.r) and stay.
sary until your puppy seems relaxed. 'furn the vacuum on and have your friend move it perpendicu-
l;u' l'rom your puppy but do not treat her. Wait. Your puppy will
Step Three: Move perpendicular to youl. puppy, Iook away from the vacuum and look at you. Praise and jackpot
_the.vacuum
simultaneously throwing her a treat. iou can also have a frienrl lrt'r'. Your puppy has now made the association that the moving
stick treats in your puppy,s mouth as you move the lilcLlum in an "on" position is associated with treats.
vacuum. Il.
your puppy seems okay, ask her to sit (or lie down).
Say stay
and continue with the previous step of moving
the vacuum antr Level Four
simultaneously treating. Repeat five to ten times,
then add morc
movement, and so on.
Decrease the distance from the vacuum to your puppy a foot
rrl a time, always returning to Level One each time.
Step Four: "Look for the Look.', Ask your puppy
to sit (or lic To review, always begin at a distance your puppy is comfort-
down) and stay. Move rhe vacuum but do noi,r"ui you, rrble with (six to ten feet):
pufpy.
wait' Your puppy wilr look away from rhe vacuum-und
iooi ur
you. Click, praise, and jackpot. your puppy has
now made the L Form a positive association with the object standing still.
association that the vacuum is associated with treats.
2. Form a positive association with the object moving.
3. Ask your puppy to sit (or lie down) and treat while the
Level TWo object is moving.
4. Ask puppy to sit (or lie down), move the object, and wait
_ At this level,
you will be adding a second challenge by turning for puppy to turn away from the object and look at you.
the vacuum on. Stand ten feet from the vacuum
wlin tfre puppy 5. Repeat entire process while the object is turned on.
by^ your side. Ask your puppy to sit (or lie down)
and stay. H'ave 6. Combine movement with sound.
a friend quickly turn the vacuum on and off. Treat you.
puppy ur; 7. Gradually decrease distance between the object and the
the noise occurs' Repeat fi"'e to ten times. over
severar sessions, puppy.
gradually increase the time the vacuum is on to
one minute.

Level Three

step one: At this rever, you will be adding a third

chailenge
by combining the movement of the vacuum with
the sound of the
vacuum. Stand ten feet from the vacuum with the puppy
by your
side. Ask your puppy to sit (or lie down) anO
,tay. iiuu" you
friend turn the vacuum on and move it perpendiiular
to your
puppy. Treat your puppy as the vacuum is
moved. Repeat five to
ten times.