mini tutorial for binding ebooks

UPDATE, this tutorial continues inthis link

As everyone knows, it's full of ebooks everywhere. Now everyone has their typical 'Books' folder.
and I know people who collect stuff that they will never read.

If you want to read an 800-page ebook without going blind from so many hours in front of the screen
computer, obviously old, shunegg comes to your aid.

I present to you the super mega hyper fast course on how to bind a stack of sheets so that it looks like a
legal book (well, more similar to those sold on the street in Santiago, but the important thing is that the thing is
readable and comfortable. Good, nice and cheap.

Well, assuming that you already have the sheets you want to bind arranged (how you print them is not
my problem), the necessary materials are:

sorry for the cold tail, I forgot to put it in the photo so I applied GIMP and pasted an image. In
summary, you need:

A little bit of hemp

A strip of gauze
two large clips (or two pieces of not very thick cardboard) I'll explain.
cartoner
cold cola
sierra
a kind of press. Mine consists of two profiles with a bolt in each corner... damn it, the thing is understood,
With the butterflies, it is tightening. It could be wood.

The idea is to open the press on a horizontal surface (the table), placing the two clips (or the
little boxes), then place the sheets with the spine of the book facing down on the table. Try to leave as much
I even out the leaves so that it looks nice. Once it is even, it starts to be pressed with the
but not too much, just enough so that the bundle doesn't move. If it is pressed too much in the end
The book is going to open like an accordion.

Next, it is caught that it remains quite even, and the beauty of the clips is that they lift the book a bit.
millimeters over the press. so that when you cut the sheets, it's just cutting the sheets and not the metal.

Then incisions are made on the back. Five cuts are enough. The same, they do not need to be so
deep enough, just enough for the hemp to pass smoothly through the furrow.
A light layer of colafría is then applied to the back, it doesn't matter if you spill a little.
put the hemp in the furrows applying a little pressure and more cold glue is added.

Then a little gauze is cut and placed on top. It should be even and without protrusions.
And then more cold cola on top.
Finally, and as a technical detail (to avoid problems when putting on the lid), put a piece of paper.
on top of everything. And cold tail DOES NOT GO on top of the sheet. and obviously the sheet is going to wrinkle but no
It matters. And don't take the sheet out.

This is left to dry for about a whole night. The next day, the press is removed and we obtain what
next:
The broken leaf is because that's where I took the piece to put on the spine, over the gauze.

If you want to make some covers properly, out of leather and cardboard, do not cut the excess gauze, perhaps
someday put up the tutorial on how to make a book of this style...

but it's a really fucking hassle and I prefer the economical version, a simple cardboard cover. For this,
Let's cut all the excess gauze, hemp, dried glue, etc. (with the cardboard cutter). It is advisable to remove the
first and last page, because that is where all the dirt that dripped before accumulates, and we will be left with something
thus

Then cardboard covers are made to the corresponding size, and the spine folds are made.
(black arrow) and I make two more folds outward (red arrow) to support the opening of the book.
You stick it with a little bit of cold glue, and that's it:

And that's all. And guaranteed by the pitcher. You can even take the whole book from a single sheet and
lift it up and the sheet will not come off, I assure you.
IMPORTANT NOTE.
If you are going to print letter-sized sheets like most Christians, do not read the following.
If you decide to make pocket-sized books, it is essential to choose the right grain of the paper.

It happens that the leaves have veins, meaning a predominant direction in which the leaf will bend.
when I am free. That's where the difference lies between a good binding and a bad one, between a book that you
one that opens and stays open and another that closes automatically, and in fact, if they make a mistake in the
You'll see that it's very hard to open the book.

As I was saying, the letter-size paper, printed in portrait orientation, like this tutorial is written,
this idea is for binding, and it stays open where you leave it, but if you think of cutting the ream by the
half (there's still a super convenient size), you messed up. The vein reverses and it becomes an extremely
hard.

For this, it is more convenient to buy sheets at a printing shop, size A1, and ask them to cut them for you.
in the size you want. I prefer 14 or 15 * 23 cm.

So, to verify the vein, do the following:

Two small pieces are cut, in each direction (H and V), and each piece is licked a little. One will bend and
the other will remain straight, according to the following figures, the side for which they must be made
furrows, it is MANDATORILY the side marked with black lines.
In this case, the sheet has the grain 'along'.
The paper gives way immediately when held in the direction of the grain, and can be easily identified.

and I didn't come with what I filled the post with photos, because explaining it with just words would have been
much more hairy.

If you're interested, I uploaded the manual to Rapidshare, you can download it from here:

Manual for book binding

NOW LET'S GO WITH THE SECOND WAY OF

EMPASTE:

WITH SEWN PAGES AND OF BETTER QUALITY

ASSEMBLY OF THE NOTEBOOKS
First of all, one must realize that this plaster needs one to believe.
booklets, or sheets, generally 4 pages of the book will be printed on one sheet, and
By joining 8 of these sheets, a booklet is generated.

Since 8x4 = 32, the books will necessarily have a number of pages that is a multiple.
from 32. for example, if the ebook is 320 pages, it will consist of 10 booklets, which
they must be sewn. since almost never does one go to download books of that amount of pages, it
It is ideal to add blank pages at the beginning and at the end, regardless of whether they are 10 or 20.
but the first step of this tutorial is that a number of sheets remain a multiple
of 32.

This format is ideal if you are going to print on A4 sheets, obviously the size of each
page will be half of this type of sheet).

For printing the booklets in brochure mode, you must give it exactly that.
Select the print options from the menu,

For example, when this print option is enabled, you send it to print.
first

from page 1 to 32,

from page 33 to 64,

from page 65 to 96,

and so on, you add 32 to the final page of each notebook and
you start with the one that follows in numerical order, to make it clearer I put
the example:

1 - 32

33 - 64

65 - 96

97 - 128

129- 160

161-192

193-224
225- 256
and so on,
You will realize then that each printed sequence can be folded by the
half and actually forms the booklet with the appropriate page numbering of 32
in 32.

With a little practice, it is understood quickly.

Once all the sheets are printed, comes the boring part, which is to fold each one of them.
fold the sheets in half and start forming the booklets. Don't take too long, do it.
quickly and it doesn't matter if they end up a little out of alignment. For example, when folding the 200
I take about 35 minutes to read 8 pages of an 800-page book.
it's 1 booklet, so the first booklet goes from page 1 to 32, the second
from 33 to 64, and so on.

with this you already have the book ready, you don't need another printer and you can go straight to
theme of how to sew the book. for this, two fundamental elements are needed; thread
of shoemaker (or nylon thread) and a curved needle as shown in the image.
with all the booklets together and making the book even, the sheets are pressed by
thepork loin...

and the sewing process begins by making four shallow cuts in the
notebooks, at an equidistant or similar distance. The idea is that the cuts generate
a notch in everythingloinfrom the book, and leave a hole between all the pages
so that the needle passes through easily. you also shouldn't take risks by making a very deep cut.
deep, just enough for there to be a 'path' for the needle. this step is
similar to the previous method of binding.
with this all the booklets are perforated into four parts, by theloin.
verify that this is the case. and then we proceed to sew (I'm going to see how the hell to explain
the sewing because once talking it's difficult),

Put the first booklet with the page '1' facing down, with thelointowards
One. We will name the four cuts A, B, C, and D as shown in the figure.
The first two booklets are sewn in a special way, from the 3rd onwards it repeats.
the same procedure.

For the first booklet, enter with the needle (with a lot of thread, obviously) through the
hole A, exit through B and enter again through B, leaving a "tear", exit through C and
re-enter through C leaving another "tear", finally exit through D. It should take almost
leave the entire thread, just leave behind the hole A an amount of thread roughly double
from the top of the page (in this case, 40 cm ±).

On the inside, the booklet should look more or less like this:
fold the booklet well and place the second one with page 33 facing down.
Enter the thread through hole D, exit through C and hook the thread through the tear of the
first booklet, as observed below;

re-enter through C, exit through B and connect similarly through the tear
corresponding, enter through B and exit through hole A. next, one must go
tightening the threads until everything is firm and even, so that it does not show the
tears and let the 2 booklets remain united, just as in the figure. A technical note,
whenever you need to tension the thread, do it towards the side (right or
to the left), not towards their body, because they can break the book
the procedure detailed below is repeated for all booklets
from the 3rd onwards.
Take notebook 3 and place it with page 65 facing down, enter with the
needle through A, exit through B and pass the needle through the thread connection in the hole
B between booklets 1 and 2, as seen in the figure:

re-enter through B and exit through C, hook into the corresponding space and enter through
C and exit through D. hook in the thread that is between notebook 1 and 2, as seen:
tension the thread well so that it stays tight
The booklet 4 is added below, enter through D, exit through C and connect through the
thread that remains between notebook 2 and 3, enter through C, exit through B and hook, well,
I think it's already understood, enter through B and exit through A, hook through the space between the
booklets 2 and 3, tighten the thread and place the next booklet and continue like this until the
last notebook:
finally, a knot is made at the last hook; as can be seen in the figure, and
cut the remaining thread.

Then the book is turned over, and the needle is threaded with the rest of the thread that was left.
excess at the beginning, which is before hole A of the first booklet (remember
having left the 40 cm that I mentioned!!), and it proceeds to hook by the thread between 1 and 2 of
hole A, enter through A, exit through B, hook, enter through B, exit through C, hook
enter through C and exit through D, hook and make a final knot.

With this, the book is completely sewn. And we can press it LIGHTLY, and
applysodacold atpork loin, just like in the previous binding.
And in fact, the procedure from here on out is exactly the same as
in the first binding.

If you prefer to put hard covers on it, what you have to do is not to cut all the way to the edge.
fabric (you can also use some cloth) with the paper that was stuck and that it stays
as if I had wings, these are the ones that will be used to hold the bound pages to the
lid.

One detail: as you will notice when you do it, the books don't line up evenly with the others.
three sides (that are not theloin) pthe best thing to do is to take it to a printing shop and ask that
trim a few millimeters from each side.

LAST TIPS:
FOR THE FIRST PART OF THE POST:

If you are going to print on A4 paper (the most common and the one they give you copies and all types of
Documents in general), there will be no major problem, you just organize the sheets.
according to the numbering and proceed to the referred procedure.
Now if you want books half the size of this sheet, the ideal is that
applies the second method of binding (sewing).

If you find it very laborious and want to use the first method, then you need to cut the
sheets in half and arrange them according to numbering,

Regarding the cut, you need to use a paper guillotine and do it in groups of
leaves
if you don't have a guillotine, what you can do is use scissors (marking the middle)
obviously) or else fold them in half as if they were booklets and use some
cutting element (cutter, knife) and cut carefully keeping away

the hands of the cutting area (where you start and where you finish).

Then sort the sheets by the numbering, here try as much as possible that the only area
ofpork loinwhere all the glue will fall, thesodarellfill all the gaps and
irregularities and the other edges will be aligned and well shaped.

FOR THOSE WHO WANT TO PRINT MANGA:

The meaning of reading does not affect the order of impressions, that is, before
to start printing, they must begin with the page corresponding to the original that
make the subsequent numbering convenient, that is, it has to be page number 1
Original and check that the digital pages are complete, if there is any that is missing.
since it's a blank page, simply start with the first page of each
chapter every time they print a group.

Then you organize the pages according to the reading flow and you're all set.
apply the first method without problems.

FOR THE PRESS:

I have tried to see several possible options and I think the most useful tool and the most
the cheap one that I recommend and that you can get for making the fillings is the one that
I present in the post,

just get two metal bars (of the right size), two long bolts and the
butterflies, you can get them at a hardware store or if possible used for
to reduce costs
and have the welder from your neighborhood do the job, just print the image of the
Press the post, and show him how it should look and what use it will have.

It is a small investment for a tool that will be eternal and useful and that also does not
it will give you difficulties for the filling and as a plus, it helps you to be able to hang it up
anywhere while the glue dries.

If you have another type of press, try to ensure that the group of sheets to be bound is as much as possible.
I was pressed on both sides across the entire area of [Link], this
from the moment you start to throw it thesodadmust remain pressed until
Let the glue dry, otherwise the pages will wrinkle whether you want them to or not.

REGARDING THE PAGES AND PRINTING:

Try to buy sheets in bulk if possible, it's cheaper, they come in

packs of 500 sheets, if you buy in small quantities it will be more expensive,

You can print on the type of paper you like, always considering the results that
you will obtain according to the type of printer, I have seen in several cases the use of the
laser printer when you want to print on couche paper, well it depends on the taste of
each one.

Black and white printing is undoubtedly the most economical and the vast majority of
Books can be printed in this way.

Try to use the printing mode that saves the most ink, the recommended one.
it would be normal, if you see that the intensity of the color of the letters is strong and that in addition the
The letters are bold, you can lower it to quick print mode and see how it looks.
The important thing is that it is clearly visible and comfortable for reading.