Essential Oil Classification for Soapmaking
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farmerinthewoodzEssential Oil Classification for Soapmaking
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farmerinthewoodzOil classification
By Nicola Gebendinger
Data about fats are taken from [Link].
The first and most important step in soapmaking is devising a soap’s
fat mix and is often the most complex and time-consuming one; the more
fats go into it the more complex it can be.
To help makers in deciding how to combine oils in a recipe, five groups
have been proposed: #1) high hardening and high cleansing coconut oil
and related; #2) intermediate hardening and little cleansing palm and
related; #3) high conditioning soft oils; #4) castor oil; #5) waxes.
I’ve found this concept very useful.
The first group includes babassu oil, coconut oil and palm kernel oil,
and is characterized by about 50% lauric acid and 15-to-20% myristic
acid in its composition, resulting in a high-cleansing and very hard
soap. Palmitic and stearic fatty acids, which also contribute to
hardness, and unsaturated fatty acids, which contribute to
conditioning, are low. Palm kernel oil is the most conditioning of the
group, while babassu and coconut have the same value.
The most commonly used is by far coconut oil, with babassu oil and palm
kernel oil lagging behind out of cost (babassu oil) and environmental
(palm kernel oil and palm kernel flakes) considerations.
Though many soapers make a 100% coconut oil soap for personal use, with
a very high superfatting, many other soap makers prefer to use a lot
less such fats in their soaps, with 30% being a generally accepted
maximum rate; they often prefer to go even lower.
The second group of fats includes palm oil, tallow, ghee, lard, cocoa
butter, shea butter, laurel fruit oil (deep green), red palm butter
(bright orange), neem oil, illipe butter, kokum butter, mango butter.
They’re particularly rich in stearic acid (up to 56%) and palmitic acid
(up to 44%), which contribute to hardness, but not to cleansing. These
oils are therefore very useful in soaps when one wishes to increase
hardness without unduly increasing cleansing. They’re also high in
oleic acid (36%-48%, on average) and can contain a sizable % of
linoleic oil, 10-26%.
While the coconut group of oils is quite straightforward, the palm
group is therefore more complicated, and a correct choice requires some
skull sweat. Palm oil is the most commonly used member of the group,
being the most versatile and the least expensive; however, soap makers
sensitive to environmental concerns might not like to use it. Ghee,
lard and tallow are good substitutes, but not all soapers like to use
animal products. Cocoa butter and shea butter have a greater appeal, to
both environmental- and animal-friendly soap makers; they are, however,
on the expensive side – cocoa butter more than shea butter.
Red palm oil is bright orange and laurel fruit oil deep green; color is
in this case to be considered in their choice.
Neem oil is considered medicinal, and recommended to be used at low %,
so it is classified as a luxury oil. I’ve never used illipe butter,
kokum butter or mango seed butter; a quick check, however, proves them
very expensive and better suited to balms than to soaps.
It is my experience that the above-mentioned oils also significantly
contribute to bubbles.
The third group of fats includes almost all soft oils that I know of,
rich in unsaturated fatty acids and highly conditioning, generally
liquid even at low temperatures (<10 °C). Their fatty acid profile is
dominated by oleic, linoleic and linolenic acids, which are at least
60% of the total content and contribute to moisturizing, but not to
hardness or cleansing. These fats are way too many to be listed here,
and only a few samples will be given.
The most commonly oils used in soapmaking (base oils) are olive oil
(extra virgin, virgin and pomace), canola oil (both regular and high
oleic), rapeseed oil, sunflower oil (both regular and high oleic), corn
oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, and rice bran oil.
Avocado oil, macadamia nut oil, sweet almond oil, apricot kernel oil,
peach kernel oil and safflower oil can also be included here. Though
they may be quite expensive, they’re often cheap enough to be used in
sizable quantities in soapmaking.
Other oils (luxury oils) can be used, though in small amounts (<10%
each) either because of their cost or irritation potential. Flax seed
(linseed) oil, hemp oil, grapeseed oil, wheat germ oil, sesame oil, are
quite common. Some more rarely used oils, in even smaller %, are
pumpkin seed oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, but also rosehip oil,
evening primrose oil, argan oil, tamanu oil, and moringa oil.
Castor oil is generally not included in the previous group, since its
fatty acid profile is for about 90% ricinoleic acid. It creates a lot
of densely packed small bubbles, so it is used to influence the
creaminess of the lather.
The fifth group includes waxes: jojoba oil, lanolin, beeswax,
candelilla wax and carnauba wax. It is worth remembering that they are
not triglycerides, but diverse esters of long chain organic compounds
such as fatty acids and alcohols. Their SAP is between a third and a
half of the SAP of triglycerides, and their recommended maximum
percentage goes from 1-2% of carnauba wax to 6% jojoba oil. Also, they
tend to inhibit lather and contribute to some hardening of the soap.
So, how to apply this classification to creating a fat mix? I like a
base mix of 4 fats: one of the coconut group, one of the palm group,
one soft oil, and castor oil, with a 40:60 saturated:unsaturated fatty
acid ratio. Cost considerations will make the base oils preferable, but
the addition of one or two luxury oils is not forbidden or unheard of.
Of course, soap maker’s judgement and choice are final, so the previous
is only a suggestion.
Common questions
Powered by AIThe choice of oils significantly influences the soap's moisturizing and cleansing properties. Oils rich in lauric and myristic acids, such as coconut oil, contribute to high cleansing and hardness due to their substantial detergent action. In contrast, oils abundant in unsaturated fatty acids, like oleic and linoleic acids in soft oils (e.g., olive oil, canola oil), provide high conditioning and moisturizing benefits but do not enhance cleansing or hardness. The selection of oils thus determines the balance between cleansing aggressiveness and moisturizing ability, impacting the final product's feel and suitability for different skin types .
The visual characteristics of oils such as the bright orange of red palm oil and the deep green of laurel fruit oil can significantly influence the appearance of the final soap product. These color attributes need to be considered when formulating soap, especially if the goal is to maintain or impart certain hues to the final product. This evaluation is crucial for aligning the soap's visual appeal with branding concepts or consumer expectations, especially in natural or visually themed soaps .
Ricinoleic acid, which makes up about 90% of castor oil, influences its use in soapmaking by creating a lot of densely packed small bubbles, which enhances the creaminess of the lather. This property makes castor oil a valuable addition to enhance the lather quality in soaps, often used in small quantities to balance with other oils .
The 40:60 saturated to unsaturated fatty acid ratio is significant because it provides an optimal balance between soap hardness and conditioning properties. Saturated fatty acids, like those from coconut and palm oils, contribute to a hard, long-lasting soap, while unsaturated fatty acids enhance the soap’s conditioning and moisturizing qualities. Achieving this ratio helps create a soap that is firm yet gentle on the skin and is often guided by cost considerations, with the inclusion of both base and luxury oils, depending on affordability and availability .
When choosing oils based on cleansing properties, considerations must be given to the fatty acid composition—primarily the presence of lauric and myristic acids, which are high in oils like coconut and babassu. These oils are excellent for cleansing due to their detergent-like action and ability to produce a robust lather. However, over-reliance on such oils can result in soaps that are too cleansing and potentially harsh, necessitating the inclusion of more conditioning oils to balance the end product. Soapmakers must carefully select and proportion these oils to achieve the desired cleansing effect without compromising skin integrity .
Environmental and cost considerations significantly impact the choice of oils in soapmaking. For example, babassu oil is less commonly used than coconut oil due to its high cost, and palm kernel oil usage is avoided due to environmental concerns. Conversely, palm oil, though inexpensive, is less favored by environmentally conscious soap makers. Similarly, cocoa butter and shea butter, while appealing due to their plant-based origin, are more costly. Decisions around these oils often involve weighing the economic feasibility against the desire to make environmentally sound choices .
Luxury oils, while offering unique benefits such as enhanced skin feel or additional conditioning properties, are typically used in smaller quantities due to their higher cost and potential for irritation. They are often included in upscale product lines to justify a higher price point. Base oils, such as olive and coconut oils, are more cost-effective and can be used in larger quantities, making them ideal for everyday products. The choice between luxury and base oils involves balancing cost with desired soap qualities, where luxury oils might be used sparingly to enhance a soap's market appeal and performance .
The high content of unsaturated fatty acids in soft oils, such as oleic, linoleic, and linolenic acids, provides significant moisturizing benefits and conditioning properties in soap. However, these acids do not contribute to the hardness or cleansing properties, necessitating their integration alongside harder oils to achieve a balanced soap formulation. Consequently, formulating a soap with soft oils requires careful consideration of achieving the right hardness and cleansing level, typically through blending with oils that offset these weaknesses .
Waxes, such as jojoba oil, lanolin, and beeswax, differ from triglyceride oils because they are esters of long-chain organic compounds like fatty acids and alcohols, rather than triglycerides. Their saponification value (SAP) is about one-third to one-half that of triglycerides, meaning they are used in much lower percentages. In soapmaking, waxes contribute to some soap hardness and tend to inhibit lather, unlike triglyceride oils, which vary widely in their effects on lather and hardness based on their fatty acid composition .
Palmitic and stearic acids contribute to the hardness of soap without increasing its cleansing properties. Oils from the second group, which include palm oil, tallow, and various butters, are rich in these acids, making them useful for increasing soap hardness while maintaining mildness. This is important when creating a soap that is firm but not overly cleansing, which is particularly desirable in more conditioning formulations .