Introduction:

Raw (greige) wool fabrics contain residual oils, lubricants, and stresses, causing dimensional
instability. Finishing removes these impurities and adds softness, luster, and stability.

Wool’s scale structure and elasticity make it prone to felting and shrinkage.

Key processes include milling, crabbing, decatising, and anti-felting.

The goal: achieve dimensional stability and a desirable aesthetic feel through a mix of wet and dry
operations.

overview:

Wool finishing combines wet processes (scouring, crabbing, milling, shrink-resist) and dry processes
(drying, pressing, decatising, shearing).

Objectives:

Remove contaminants.

Control shrinkage and expansion.

Develop handle and appearance.

Apply functional finishes.

Milling (Fulling)

Definition & Purpose

Milling (or fulling) is a controlled felting process used to compact wool fabrics.

It takes advantage of wool’s natural scale structure and elasticity to interlock fibres.

The main goal is to increase thickness, density, and strength while enhancing softness and warmth.
It is particularly important in woollen fabrics to produce fuller, softer textures and conceal weave
marks.

In worsted fabrics, milling is applied lightly to preserve crisp drape and smooth handle.

Objectives

Consolidate and strengthen the fabric by controlled fibre migration and interlocking.

Improve appearance, cover, and warmth by reducing porosity.

Achieve a desired hand feel (softer and bulkier).

Correct minor dimensional irregularities developed during weaving.

Prepare the fabric for further finishing processes such as crabbing or decatising.

Principle & Mechanism

Based on the Differential Frictional Effect (DFE) of the wool fibre surface scales.

The scales act like tiny directional ratchets, causing fibres to move rootward during agitation.

When fibres move in different directions under friction, they interlock irreversibly, producing felting
shrinkage.

The process involves simultaneous mechanical agitation, heat, and moisture.

Elastic recovery and frictional locking together cause gradual densification and compaction.

Swelling of fibres in warm water increases contact and promotes inter-fibre migration.
The final structure is a compact, stable fabric with enhanced resilience.

Key Process Variables

Temperature:

Usually warm (35–60 °C) to promote fibre swelling and mobility.

Excess heat can damage fibres or over-felt the fabric.

Mechanical Action:

Controlled agitation by paddles or rollers determines the rate of felting.

Longer milling = greater consolidation, but risk of over-felting.

pH & Chemistry:

Slightly acidic conditions (pH 4–6) accelerate felting.

Use of soaps, detergents, or soda affects fibre swelling and lubrication.

Liquor Ratio:

Lower liquor ratio (less water) increases fibre-to-fibre friction and speeds milling.

High liquor ratio gives gentler action, used for delicate fabrics.

Time of Treatment:
Adjusted based on fibre fineness and desired compactness.

Fabric Structure & Composition:

Finer fibres and open weaves felt faster than coarser or tightly woven fabrics.

Fibre blend (pure wool vs. wool-synthetic) alters milling behaviour.

Tension Control:

Fabrics are milled loose or lightly tensioned to allow natural shrinkage.

Additives:

Milling oils, lubricants, and softeners influence handle and control friction.

Stages of Operation

Preparation: Fabric scoured and wetted evenly.

Milling: Fabric subjected to warm water, soap, and agitation in a milling machine.

Inspection: Shrinkage checked at intervals using standard samples.

Rinsing: Removes soap residues and halts further felting.

Hydroextraction & Drying: Prepares fabric for subsequent finishing.

Measurements & Evaluation

Dimensional Shrinkage (%): Warp × weft change tracked throughout the process.
Mass per Unit Area & Thickness: Indicate densification level.

Air Permeability / Porosity: Lower values confirm consolidation.

Handle Testing: Objective (Kawabata) and subjective hand panels assess softness/fullness.

Surface Appearance: Checked for pilling, nap, and uniformity.

Strength & Elastic Recovery: Ensures fabric remains durable post-milling.

Applications

Used for woollen coatings, blankets, melton, and boiled wool fabrics.

Gives warmth, compactness, and luxurious texture.

Provides dimensional stability and hides weave patterns for fashion fabrics.

Limited milling improves body and fullness in lightweight worsteds.

Defects & Control Measures

Over-felting: Fabric becomes too dense and harsh → prevent with time and pH control.

Uneven felting: Caused by poor circulation or tension differences → ensure uniform agitation.

Loss of Drape: Over-milling reduces flexibility → limit mechanical action.

Distortion or Skewing: Correct with intermediate stretching or crabbing.

Continuous in-process monitoring (sample tests, shrinkage charts) is essential.

Recent Developments

Use of enzyme-assisted milling to achieve softer hand with less felting.

Incorporation of automated shrinkage control using digital sensors.

Development of eco-friendly milling agents replacing traditional soaps.

Research on plasma pre-treatments to control felting without high energy use.

Crabbing (Pre-Setting)

Definition & Purpose

Crabbing is a hydrothermal setting process used to stabilize wool fabrics before final finishing.

It involves passing fabric through hot water (near boiling) under controlled tension and then rapidly
cooling it.

The process relieves internal stresses built up during weaving or knitting.

It ensures dimensional stability and prevents unwanted relaxation shrinkage during later processes
or wear.

Commonly applied to worsted fabrics before dyeing, decatising, or pressing.

Objectives

Remove internal tensions introduced during weaving, scouring, or drying.

Set the fabric dimensions permanently in both warp and weft directions.

Prevent relaxation shrinkage during subsequent wet finishing.

Enhance uniformity of handle and appearance.

Prepare fabric for consistent pressing and tailoring performance.

Principle & Mechanism

Based on thermal stress relaxation and dimensional setting under moist heat.

Hot water causes wool fibres to swell, allowing the release of internal strain.

When the fabric is held under light tension, it assumes a new equilibrium dimension.

Rapid cooling locks this stabilized form by fixing the structure in its relaxed state.

Prevents fabric from shrinking later when exposed to hot water during washing or dyeing.

Process Parameters

Temperature:

Typically 98–100 °C (near boiling).

Sufficient to soften and relax fibres without damaging them.

Time:

2–10 minutes depending on fabric weight and tension level.

Tension Control:

Fabric is wound on a roller or passed through a continuous range under slight tension.

Tension determines the final dimension and prevents over-shrinkage.

Cooling Stage:

Immediate cooling in cold water (10–20 °C) “freezes” the relaxed geometry.

Liquor Flow:

Continuous flow ensures uniform heating and prevents local creasing.

Machine Type:

Batch crabbing machines (two roller type) or continuous crabbing units.

Sequence & Variations

Before Scouring: Used when dimensional stability is needed early, but risk of fixing stains.

After Scouring: Most common practice; ensures a clean surface before setting.

After Dyeing: Sometimes done post-dyeing to correct relaxation shrinkage.

Sequence often depends on fabric type and mill preference.

Measured Effects
Reduction of relaxation shrinkage — typically up to 70–90 % improvement.

Improved dimensional repeatability between batches.

More consistent handle and fall of fabric.

Enhanced sewing and tailoring performance.

Better response to decatising and pressing due to internal balance.

Defects & Control

Uneven setting due to irregular tension → maintain constant roller pressure.

Creasing or marking → ensure smooth fabric path and proper guiding.

Insufficient cooling → leads to partial relaxation and later shrinkage.

Over-tensioning → causes stretching or distortion; control speed and load carefully.

Modern Improvements

Development of continuous crabbing ranges for uniform temperature control.

Use of digital tension and shrinkage sensors to automate monitoring.

Introduction of eco-friendly water recycling systems.

Integration with dyeing machines for combined set-dye cycles to save energy.

3.4 Decatising / “Blowing” (Dry Finishing & Set-Fixing)

Definition & Purpose

Decatising (or decatizing) is a dry finishing process used to fix the final luster, drape, and handle of
wool fabrics.

It is carried out after pressing, using steam and air to permanently set the surface finish.

The process ensures that the fabric retains its pressed form during tailoring and wear.

It also enhances the appearance, smoothness, and dimensional stability.

Often used for suitings and high-end worsted fabrics.

Principle & Mechanism

Fabric is rolled onto a perforated beam or drum, interleaved with a wrapper fabric
(cotton/polyester).

Steam is passed through the roll to soften and reshape fibres.

Air suction or “blowing” cools the roll and fixes the structure.

The combination of heat, moisture, and pressure results in a permanent set.

The operation mimics pressing but stabilizes it for long-term use.

Process Variables

Steam Pressure: 2–3 bar typical; affects depth of heat penetration.

Exposure Time: 1–5 minutes depending on weight and roll size.

Cooling Air Flow: Controlled air suction ensures uniform set and prevents streaks.

Wrapper Fabric: Affects friction, steam diffusion, and final surface gloss.

Roll Tension: Determines compactness and contact between layers.

Temperature Gradient: Uniform temperature essential for even setting.

Fabric Moisture Content: Must be balanced (8–12 %) for best results.

Types of Decatising

Wet Decatising: Steam applied under pressure, then cooled with water.

Dry Decatising: Steam and air used without direct water contact.

Continuous Decatising: For long runs of suiting materials.

Batch Decatising: For shorter or delicate fabrics.

Results & Quality Metrics

Improved crease retention and dimensional stability.

Enhanced surface luster and smoothness.

Better pressing durability and shape retention.

Reduction in fabric relaxation shrinkage after tailoring.

Improved drape and handle consistency.

Defects & Remedies

Over-steaming: Causes loss of set or excessive softening — reduce steam time.

Uneven Cooling: Produces streaks or bands — maintain even airflow.

High Roll Tension: May distort fabric width — calibrate tension.

Residual Moisture: Leads to mildew or odor — ensure proper drying post-process.

Recent Innovations

Automated decatising systems with programmable pressure and temperature.

Hybrid steam-air cycles to minimize energy use.

Integration of sensor feedback control for precise luster management.

Development of non-contact air-blowing systems to enhance softness in knitwear.

3.5 Anti-Felting / Shrink-Proofing (Shrink-Resist Treatments)

Purpose & Need

Wool’s surface scales cause felting shrinkage during washing.

Anti-felting treatments make wool machine-washable by modifying fibre surfaces.

Aim: prevent fibre interlocking while maintaining softness and handle.

Types of Treatments
1. Degradative (Etching) Methods

Chlorination Process:

Controlled oxidation partially removes scale edges.

Common method: Chlorine–Hercosett process.

Advantages: Excellent shrink resistance and compatibility with coatings.

Disadvantages: Generates toxic effluents (AOX) and damages fibres if overdone.

2. Additive (Polymer Coating) Methods

Hercosett Process:

Applies polyamide-epichlorohydrin resin after chlorination.

Forms thin film masking fibre scales.

Other Polymer Methods:

Silicone, polyurethane, or acrylic coatings for smoother handle.

Newer emulsions reduce stiffness.

Benefits: Excellent durability and balanced softness.

3. Enzymatic & Plasma Methods (Eco-Friendly)

Enzymatic (Protease) Treatment:

Selectively modifies surface proteins, reducing friction.

Environmentally safe but requires precise control.

Plasma / Ozone Treatments:

Physically etch or oxidize scales without chemicals.

Improve wettability and bonding with coatings.

Research Trend: Replace chlorine with greener, low-effluent processes.

Key Process Variables

Concentration and type of chemical reagent.

Treatment temperature and time.

Bath pH (acidic for chlorination; neutral for enzymes).

Add-on percentage of polymer coating.

Curing or drying temperature after coating.

Performance Evaluation

Shrinkage Tests: ISO/AATCC washing tests for dimensional change.

Surface Examination: SEM/AFM to observe scale modification.

Handle Testing: Kawabata evaluation or subjective hand feel.

Durability: Resistance to 5–10 wash cycles.

Environmental Analysis: AOX measurement, effluent load, and toxicity.

Advantages

Ensures machine washability and shape retention.

Improves consumer satisfaction and durability.

Can enhance color fastness and smoothness.

Drawbacks & Control

Over-chlorination → Fibre weakening.

Heavy coatings → Stiff or waxy handle.

Uneven treatment → Patchy shrinkage resistance.

Need for pH and time control to prevent fibre damage.

Recent Developments

Bio-enzyme systems with mild surfactants for sustainable shrink-proofing.

Plasma-activated polymer coatings improving bonding and softness.

Nanopolymer finishes with self-healing and hydrophobic properties.

Move toward chlorine-free certification and circular textile production.

3.6 Blowing (Clarification & Context)

Terminology

The term “blowing” in wool finishing is used in two different contexts:

a) As part of decatizing, referring to air cooling after steaming.

b) As a surface raising process using high-pressure air to lift fibre ends.

A. Blowing in Decatising

“Blowing” refers to the air-cooling stage after steaming in decatising.

Air is drawn or blown through the perforated beam to stabilize the set.

Prevents differential shrinkage and banding.

Ensures uniform luster and dimensional balance.

Used primarily in worsted suiting fabrics for precise appearance control.

B. Blowing for Surface Raising

In knitwear or flannel finishing, “blowing” may refer to air-jet treatment.

High-velocity air jets lift surface fibres to form a soft nap or raised texture.

Often used before shearing or sueding.

Enhances softness, warmth, and bulk.

Suitable for blankets, flannels, and brushed woollens.

Process Parameters

Air pressure and temperature (adjusted to fabric thickness).

Exposure time and distance between nozzle and fabric.

Fabric speed for uniform surface effect.

Optional moisture pre-conditioning to aid fibre movement.

Applications

Gives velvety touch and improved aesthetics in woollens.

Acts as a pre-finishing step before shearing or pressing.

Used as a soft-finishing method for delicate knitted wool goods.

Precautions

Excessive air pressure can distort or stretch the fabric.

Non-uniform blowing may cause uneven nap or streaks.

Should be carefully controlled depending on fabric type and weight.

Modern Usage

Advanced mills use combined steam–air blowing systems for dual finishing.

Automated sensors ensure consistent air velocity and temperature.

Some sustainable operations use recycled air systems for energy efficiency.

conclusion

Wool finishing integrates mechanical, thermal, and chemical operations for stability and
performance.

Milling: Creates compactness and softness.

Crabbing: Ensures dimensional stability.

Decatising/Blowing: Provides final smoothness and luster.

Anti-felting: Enables washable, durable wool.

The trend is toward eco-sustainable finishing, using enzymes and plasma to replace chlorine.

Effective finishing depends on controlling temperature, agitation, pH, liquor ratio, and treatment
sequence to suit fiber type and fabric end-use.