The story

It is not new that we are looking for a way to highlight the gaze, whether
with makeup, eyebrow design, and now with the so
eyelash extensions. Traveling a bit through time,
we see that back in the times of ancient Egypt, around 3,500
A.C. The men of the time used Kohl and other mixtures to
darkening the eyelashes, while the women used malachite
for the area around the lashes, which at the time was thought to be aphrodisiac.

The natural frame for women's eyes, the eyelashes, were

obviously designed by the body itself to provide protection from
many elements in the environment, such as the wind and dust, but be
intentionally or not, women's eyelashes have served as
an important attribute for the sake of beauty. Women's eyelashes
are recognized for their aesthetic importance, and even those of
Men have already had prominence in beauty.

The eyelash extension comes from the evolution of false eyelashes.

of which the earliest records date back to 1911, when Anna Taylor
obtained a patent in the USA for a fabric with tiny threads
at the tips, in a concave shape, which was implanted through a
adhesive tape over half of the upper eyelid.

For over 25 years, the president of KELA (Korean Eye Lash

(Association) took the eyelashes to South Korea, using different
curvatures, overlaps and diameters, to achieve a more
natural he developed the technique 'in layers' and helped in
popularization of eyelash extensions.
 The eye

The human eye is only 2.5 cm in diameter and is one of the

more complex structures in the human body.
 The eyelashes

Eyelashes exist to protect the eyes, they serve as barriers

important that prevent small particles, such as dust and
the microorganisms reach our eyes. That's why,
importance of keeping them sanitized. They are similar to
hairs with 0.25 micrometer in diameter, containing inside
a bundle of microtubules, so we must take good care of our
eyelashes, as they have many functions.

In cytology, cilia are appendages of eukaryotic cells, with

constant movements in a single direction. The name cilia comes from
from Latin, with the meaning of eyelash, due to its similarity
apparent. However, the term eyelashes is used in cases where they
they are numerous and short.

An eyelash lasts from 90 to 150 days, until it falls out and is replaced by another.
We have about 200 eyelashes in each eye.

Eyelashes grow in three phases: just as it happens with the

head hair, the eyelashes go through an anagen phase (period
of active growth where they grow 0.16mm per day,
we affectionately call baby lashes, catagen (period of
transition) and telogenic (resting period). The longest phase is
a growth phase, and it is in it that 90% of your eyelashes will be in
any moment of life, this means that if your eyelashes
if they were cut completely today, they would be back to size
original in about five months.
 Sticker
CHEMICAL COMPOSITION
Methyl Cyanoacrylate: it is the main ingredient in most of
adhesives, being responsible for the adherence of the extension to the eyelashes
natural (it's the sticky part of the adhesive).

Aquila polymethacrylate / Polyisocyanate: provides elasticity to

sticker. Some stickers, when cured, become very
hard, while others maintain flexibility in their cured form.
The more flexible, the more natural and delicate the extensions will become.

Pigment/Black Carbon: gives the adhesive a deep black color.

Hydroquinone: it is a weak acid used as a buffer to prevent

that the adhesive polymerization occurs immediately. In Brazil,
this product is released at a concentration of 2% to 4% in
produtos manipulados. Enquanto nos adesivos a concentração
used is 0.5%.

Formaldehyde: it is used to produce cyanoacrylate, which later

is purified, becoming free of any excess reagents of
subproducts. This process is called Chromatography. Traces
they may even be detectable, but not quantifiable.

It's not glue, it's adhesive!

 Sticker
POLYMERIZATION
Polymerization occurs when cyanoacrylate comes into contact with
the water. In this process, gases are produced that can cause
irritações durante o procedimento de extensão de cílios.

ENVIRONMENT
Before choosing the best place to work with eyelashes, pay attention to
if some details about light, heat and mainly humidity, look for
work keeping the humidity of the environment between 40% and 50% and the
temperature between 20ºC and 25ºC, humidity and temperature affect the
gluing and application process of the threads as well as their durability
stretching.

For this, have a hygrometer near you while you perform the
gluing and always keep monitoring these temperatures and humidity.
Your environment should be well-ventilated and you should preferably have
an air conditioner to maintain a controlled temperature in a
dehumidifier if working in very humid areas or
humidifier for drier days.

The advantage of having an air conditioner is that it helps to

dehumidify the environment and you can always adjust the
temperature.
 Sticker
CURIOSITY
The stickers, once opened, have a short period of
duration. Some companies recommend only one month, others
up to 3 months. If the recommendation is greater than this period then
stay alert, there is a chance that other substances and
preservatives have been added to the formula.

MAINTAIN THE QUALITY OF THE ADHESIVE

Keep the nozzle clean (make-up sponge);
Leave it in a cool and dry place;
Change your sticker within the timeframe indicated by the brand to have a
Good retention, your sticker needs to be in good condition;
Avoid brightness, heat, and humidity.
If unopened, it can last up to 6 months in the refrigerator.
complying with the product's expiration date;
In case there is no air conditioning and/or your room is very
hot, put your sticker in cold water during the
service, this will maintain consistency throughout the
procedure;
Keeping it open by taking it in and out of the refrigerator can do
with what it condenses and starts the polymerization;
Shake the bottle very well before use;
Do not change the adhesive of your original bottle;
Keep the bottle stored in a container with rice or silica.
 Sticker
REMEMBER
Drying time is different from curing time!

Drying is the short time that the glue takes to hold onto the threads.
Healing is the time it takes for her to be completely connected to the
fio.

To choose your glue, pay attention to its drying time!

 TUFO x EXTENSION
O alongamento FIO A FIO é a técnica de colagem de fios soltos um
a one with a special long-lasting glue between the eyelashes
natural aiming for elongation and volume.

The tufts are formed by 2 or more strands that are sold.

glued to each other, to be attached to the natural ones with the intention of
give volume and lengthen the eyelashes for short periods.

There are still many professionals applying tufts like

long-lasting eyelash extension, but know that they
can seriously harm natural hair as they cause overweight.

One way to achieve a more voluminous strand-by-strand effect would be to use a

technique called RUSSIAN VOLUME where small groups of 2 or more
threads are formed on the spot by the professional, using threads of
thinner thickness they are known as fans.

Think about learning the RUSSIAN VOLUME only after mastering

very or classic thread by thread.
 Types of Wires

They are basically divided into 5 (five) types: humans, synthetics,

of silk, mink, and faux mink. These divisions show us
mainly about the finish of the thread, its softness, etc.
Faux mink: manufactured fur for men with the intention of imitating fur
realdo animal marta. It is a synthetic type of threads and its curvature is
keeps for a long time.

Mink real: they are brushed and removed from the marten animal. They have a
very natural aspect, but they tend to lose curvature
but faster. Not compensating for its cost-benefit, having in
Marta's original wires are very expensive.

Silk: they are synthetically manufactured and have a finishing.

brilliant. They have good retention on the threads, however, like those of
Minks quickly lose the curvature of their fibers.

Synthetic: they are the most robust and firm, resulting in a well-defined look.
striking, sometimes resembling a plastic look. These are
the cheapest ones as well.
 Curvatures
The wires also differ by how curved they are.
There are many curvatures and there is no standardization, therefore
pay attention to the differences in curvatures between the brands.

J Curl: this eyelash has a moderate curl, slightly more

curved that the eyelashes. Great way to create a more natural effect, and ideal
for use in men.

B curvature: more curved than J curls, present a

soft curvature, making the natural lashes more beautiful!
the result is as if the lashes were curled with a curler
of eyelashes.

C curl: they are one of the most popular among clients. The eyelash
in C opens the gaze with its extra curvature. They simulate the eyelashes that
they went through a lash perm process.

D curvature: these are eyelashes with a more accentuated curvature, for effects
but bolder.

L Curvature: these are eyelashes with a greater curvature, for effect.

dramatic.

So to summarize, the eyelashes follow this curvature sequence: J, B,

C, D, and L. With J being the least curved, and L being the most curved.
 Thickness of the Wires

In this aspect, we address the gauge of the wires, that is, how much
the wire is thick.
The variety in thickness is also great for the use of the wire.
we usually use 0.15;
0.18 and 0.20. In the latter, choose more modern wires that even
with a thickness of 0.20 will have a weight of 0.7. Never use a
greater than 0.20.
 Wire size
Here we find another vast variety, as in Brazil.
it can be easily found starting from the 8th. Remember that you
You need to talk to your client. Don't put on too many lashes.
long before talking to her. The eyelashes must match with the
personality of the person.
 Mapping
Mapping gazes: it is at this point that the Lash artist imprints her
signature, renews the client's look and harmonizes the eye with the rest
of the face.

According to the book by Philip Hallawel, the eye can be compared to

basic format of a triangle, with a straight base and two sides
equal to 45º.

It is important to remember that a person's two eyes are never

equal; one can be larger than the other, more raised or more inclined.
However, both have the same overall shape.

There are four basic shapes: round and open, almond-shaped.

(lifted), fallen and closed. The shape of the Asian eye is different
from the west, but it can also be almond-shaped, fallen, open or
closed. Another thing to observe is whether the eyes are large.
or small, raised or recessed and separated or close.

What determines the shape of the eye is the type of curvature of the opening of
eye on itself and the type of curvature of the upper eyelids. A
a larger opening reveals more of the iris and the white of the eye, for example. In
Meanwhile, there is little variation in the size of the Iris.
 Mapping

ALMOND SHAPED EYES:

Understand what your client desires and feel free to work on it.
mapping of it.

Fallen Eyes:
Ideal to blend curves: Use 'C' in the first 3/4 of the eye. And at the end,
use 'D' to lift the ends.
Attention: do not use long wires at the end.

PROTRUDING EYES:
Use smaller sizes and dramatic curves.

EYES COVERED BY THE EYELID:

Use larger sizes and softer curves.

DEEP EYES:
Just like in the eyes that are covered by the eyelid, the sizes
They should be larger and the curvature smoother.
C

ASIAN EYES:
Use a lot of volume, always use smaller sizes on the edges.
the most classic curvatures.
L
 Attention!

Highly allergic people, although the glue does not come into contact with
the skin, the very smell of the glue can cause allergic reactions.
We just have to imagine the number of people who have allergies to
mite (which no one sees or feels) that becomes easier to understand.
In this case, do not open the allergy test, it will give you support.
bigger to work with these clients.
• Thyroid problems. Usually these people are with
hair, weakened strands, it's not ideal to overload them. Note that if
the client has already been undergoing treatment the procedure will not cause

problems.
People undergoing oncological treatment.
People who constantly tear up can end up causing a
problem with the placement of the wires. Analyze with eyes closed the
tears continue.
Pregnant and breastfeeding women: Do this with medical authorization. There is a

big discussion even about the use of hair dye in these

, and each doctor guides their patient in a different way. In this
If so, ask her to consult with him and bring it to you.
written authorization.
 Classic thread by thread
It is the pioneering technique of eyelash extension, where we apply a thread.
synthetic for each natural hair of the client, respecting the isolation
two wires.
In this technique we can work with thicknesses from 0.10mm to
0.25mm should always prioritize the result that the client
search, and of course, the structure of the natural wire.

Technological strands
Do you know what technological wires are?
Since the creation of eyelash extensions, a lot has changed.
these evolutions keep surprising us and making our day easier
a day. The technological wires came along with this evolution. They are
known for providing a larger volume to the customer's gaze
applying in the same way as the classic wire-to-wire. These wires are
pressed directly from the factory, do not have adhesive at their base (do not
are tufts).

Its pressed form of manufacturing allows these wires to be

lighter. The application of these threads does not harm the natural eyelash of
your client. They have wire weights of 0.05 and 0.07.

These threads are coming on strong in the eyelash market.

offer this volume convenience without fans.

Reduction of service time;

Space in the schedule;
More income inside the studio.

So, let's see what these wires are like!

 Technological threads

FIO AND KNOWN AS BRAZILIAN VOLUME;

FIO V KNOWN AS INDIAN VOLUME;
FIO W KNOWN AS EGYPTIAN VOLUME
CLOVER FLOWER KNOWN AS
ARAB VOLUME;
STAR FILE KNOWN AS VOLUME
HOLLYWOOD

The names vary depending on the region or even on what

Are you going to put it in the studio.

I have heard of French volume, Carioca volume, volume

rented...
 Tips for a perfect look

Look at the shape of the eyes, they are deep, almond-shaped or

distant?
Ask your client about their wishes. What are they
waiting to reach? Do they want long lengths? There is
habit of putting on makeup?
- Now take a full face photo and a close-up photo with the
closed eyes.
Show your clients the photos and explain to them what shape and
what volume do you have in mind and why.
Determine the Mapping.
Ask the client to lie down and close their eyes.
Start the fact procedure.
Apply the lower guards and start your mapping by drawing
our pads.
Draw the general shape.
Fill in the blanks in the eye protectors. You
Do you need to change lengths within the style guide?
Will she be using different curvatures?
Prepare the eyelashes.
Start your procedure.
After the procedure, note the mapping, wires used, size,
curvature, for the client's file.
Of course, we need to clean the lashes too. So, all of that
step by step that you already know before the lower isolation which
we work in the technique of wire-to-wire.
You can also mark specific points of the mapping in
apply eye pencil and then clean.
 Layers
The perfect mix is managing to align the strands of all layers,
this is done using different sizes, because think: The thread underneath
it needs to be longer to reach the same height as the wire that
It's higher up, do you agree? If we apply the same length
with each natural strand, we would end up with a slightly more
Confused. Why?
The line of the upper eyelashes may be "higher" around 2
at the line of the lower lashes, which means that if we apply
a 10 mm lash in the same line on the top as in the layer
inferior, the upper layer would stand out, as it would become longer.

To mix the threads creating a unique upper line, it is

it is necessary to use 2 mm longer wires in the bottom layer. However
you can get results with this technique

See that this appearance will be beautiful, full, and textured, but not
it will create a top line effect.
 In our commercial eyelashes, we will hardly work on transition.
of layers, or in perfect alignments, are eyelashes that
they need to be quick with satisfactory results. Usually
we will use these works in portfolio or championship eyelashes,
therefore the need to learn the transitions of layers.
Remembering that transition is different from division, in the transition
we work with different numbering, in the division only
we separate the wire to speed up the coupling process.
 List of materials
1 curved vetus tweezer;
1 straight or curved tweezers;
Ellipse mix lashes 0.15mm
Ellipse mix lashes 0.20mm
Y mix eyelashes
W mix eyelashes
1 gel remover
1 sky sticker red cover;
Jade stone;
1 acrylic plate for support;
1 marker pen;
Eyelid protectors PAD GEL;
Microbrush;
Micropore
Dentist's mirror;
Lip gloss;
Brushes;
Paper tissues or gauze;
Disposable mask;
Disposable touch;
lash foam
Water
Mist
Finisher
1 pump foaming bottle;
First;