Sewing and Tailoring Course.

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Cut and sew

Chapter: Measures

• Ancho de sisa delantero: se toma por delante de sisa a sisa, un poco por encima del
chest.
• Back armhole width: the same as the front but on the back.
• Contorno de busto: alrededor del pecho pasando por la parte alta del mismo.
• Bust drop or rise: from the top of the shoulder, base of the neck, to the part
higher of the chest.
• Bust separation: from nipple to nipple, highest parts of the chest.
• Back length measurement: from the back, from the top of the shoulder to the waist.
• Front waist length: in front, the same as the back, passing through the upper part of the
chest.
• Waist contour: around the waist.
• Bajada o alto de cadera: por el lateral, desde la cintura a la parte más ancha de la
hip.
• Hip circumference: around the widest part of the hip.
• Shoulder: from the base of the neck to where the arm begins.
• Skirt length: in front, from the waist to where desired.

Chapter: Base Patterns

To create these patterns, some of the measurements need to be divided by 2 or 4.

To calculate the width of the base pattern of the shirt, we will divide the bust circumference by 2.
we will add 2 for the forward, subtract 2 for the back, and divide again by 2.

Base pattern shirt back.

Rectángulo inicial: ancho calculado x largo de talle de espalda.

From the top, we mark a line where we measure half of the armhole width.
back (A) from the right side of the rectangle.

In the top right corner of the rectangle, we mark 2 cm on the right side of the rectangle (B)
and 7 cm on the upper side of the rectangle (C). We connect B and C with a curve.

4 cm from the top of the rectangle and to its left we will mark a not very long horizontal line and
from C to this line we draw a straight line with the measurement of the shoulder, the end of this line
from the shoulder will be D.

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We mark a horizontal line at the height of the armhole (beginning of the sleeve to the middle of the
(axilla), the left end of this line will be E. We connect D and E with a curve passing through A.

To finish the pattern we mark on the bottom side of the rectangle from the right the fourth part.
del contorno de la cintura más 3 cm de pinza (F). Unimos E y F con una línea ligeramente curva.

For the clamp, we mark 8 cm on the bottom line of the rectangle from the right and 3 cm up.
Next, we mark a vertical line through the middle of these 3 and draw 2 straight lines on each side.
16 cm from the 2 marks of the clamp to the vertical.

Chapter: Basic Pattern Front Shirt

Initial rectangle: front length x front width.

In the upper left corner, we mark 7 cm on each side of the rectangle and connect these points.
with a curve.

Point on the left side A and on the upper horizontal B.

We mark a line 4 cm from the top and from the right, a small horizontal line. From B to this.
We mark the shoulder with a straight line, at point C.

We draw a horizontal line 12 cm from the top on which we mark the midpoint of the width of
front left over (D).

A la altura de la bajada de sisa marcamos otra línea horizontal, cuyo extremo dererecho será E.
Unimos C y E con una curva pasando por D.

A la altura de la bajada de busto marcamos otra línea horizontal, en el extremo de la derecha

The waist tuck is done the same way as the back but in this case it is 14 cm.

The end of the pattern is the same as in the back that we join with E.

Chapter: Basic Skirt Pattern

Initial rectangle: skirt length x one fourth of hip circumference.

At the height of the hip bone, we mark a horizontal line. The left end will be A.

On the upper horizontal line of the rectangle, we mark one fourth of the waist plus 3.
measuring from the right (B). We connect A and B with a curve that will protrude 1 cm above the
rectangle and we will connect this end with another curve with another point located half a cm below
from the upper right corner.

Clamp 8 cm from the center of 10 cm on each side.

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Chapter: Skirt

A series of calculations must be made to create the pattern. It will be the base pattern with these measurements.

From the quarter of the waist circumference at the back, we subtract 1 and add 3 from the dart.

We add 1 to the striker and the 3 from the clamp.

To the fourth part of hip circumference, we subtract 1 at the back and add 1 at the front.
forward.

The dart will be located at the 1/8 of the waist circumference on the front, measured from the center.
from the piece, and on the back 1 cm less.

The length of the dart will be 10 cm at the front and 11 cm at the back.

The length of the zipper will be 18 cm and the length of the back opening will be to taste.

On the base and on the side of the skirt, we mark 1 cm and connect this point with a line.
line with the end of the hip curve (hip height) to avoid creating strange shapes for us
we will trace another curve that saves us from the peak that has formed (approximately from the middle
from the curve of the hip to the middle of the line that we have drawn). Tuck the skirt in at the part
from below allows us to style it.

Screen.

I have chosen a checked fabric, the first thing to do is to match the squares.
squares when folding the fabric.

If the fabric is double width, we will buy the length of the skirt plus 5 cm for the waistband although
We could have quite a bit with what we have leftover from the sides.

Placement on the fabric.

To see it, we can refer to a pattern magazine.

We will cut with about a 5 cm margin.

Sewing.

Once the fabric is cut, we thread lines to mark the pattern on both sides. These threads are left in place.
loose to then separate the 2 parts and cut them. The seam on the back is basted directly.

Then we will stitch together the skirt and try it on; if it fits well, we will remove the loose threads.
where we have basted and sew by machine (we remove the loose threads before sewing because if
If the sewing machine's seams catch us, it will be harder to remove them.

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Por el mismo patrón cortamos el forro y procedemos de igual manera dejando más corta la costura
from the back.

After this, we overlock all the edges (from right to left).

Then we place the zipper that is sewn: the right part with long stitches for
dentro volviendo hacia atrás cada vez que metemos la aguja de forma que la puntada de fuera no
it looks, that is to say, very short, the left side of the zipper, is sewn with a stitch
hidden.

The fabric on the right is the one that goes over the zipper and its closure must reach up to
where the waistband will be placed.

When stitching the fabric that had a checkered pattern, we will do it on the right side, and it is the same as sewing.

with hidden stitch.

We place the lining by matching seams, darts, and the upper edge. We sew the lining to the
zipper edge with hidden stitching.

We cut a rectangle for the waistband that will be the waist circumference plus 6 cm and the
width 11 cm, to make a waistband of 4 cm.

We interface it completely and once interfaced, we baste it to the skirt leaving it on the outside.
Just where the waistband starts and ends, which is where the zipper will be placed, we will leave 1 cm.
to the right margin to then fold it and leave it neatly finished and what remains on the other side.
We sew by machine at the waist, cut the excess interfacing, and also the excess fabric.
We raise the waistband up and baste right along the fold, catching all the fabrics.
up.

We hem the right and left edges by about 1 cm. We fold the waistband at 4.
cm e hilvanamos y metiendo el borde hilvanamos la parte inferior de la cinturilla. Rematamos
sewing by machine, topstitching all along the waistband.

We basting stitched the lining hem and the skirt hem, and then we sew it.

To prevent the lining from showing through the opening, we fold it a bit and topstitch it.

Chapter: Vest

To create the pattern, we start from the base pattern of the shirt and modify it.

The first thing is to calculate the width of the pattern, we divide the bust circumference by two, and subtract 2 for the

back and we add 2 to the front, divide by 2 in both cases and add 2 for clearance
both in the front and back.

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Back pattern

Initial rectangle: length of the vest (measured as the length from the front waist to the length
desired) by calculated width.

The neckline continues to drop 2 cm from the upper line of the rectangle, and we will take part of the shoulder.
We will also take part of the shoulder from the side of the armhole and redo the neckline and armhole curve.

We take the shoulder measurement to the front by removing the same amount from the shoulder as from the neckline.

The clamp that goes above the waist measures 16 cm, the one that goes below can be as long as.
of the vest.

At the waist, we mark a quarter of the waist plus 3 (dart) plus 1 cm of ease.

Front pattern

The initial rectangle will be the width calculated by the length of the vest plus 3 cm for the chest dart.
that we are going to give it to the small side.

En el centro de la prenda añadimos 2,5 cm de margen para los botones.

For the neckline, a curve is drawn from the shoulder to 20 cm below the neckline which will be where
go the first button.

The waist clamp is done down to the bust drop and the chest one goes to the end.
of this. On the front we will mark 2 cm of ease at the waist and the dart below the
the waist goes up to the length of the vest.

Al recortar el patrón recortaremos 3 piezas:

1- the one between the center of the piece, buttons, the darts above and below the waist and
a curve that is drawn from the point where the bust dart and the dart above meet
waist and, more or less, half of the armhole.

2- The one that is between this curve and the upper line of the chest piece and the armhole.

3 - The one that exists between the lower line of the chest dart, the darts above and below th
waist and the side of the vest.

We joined pieces 2 and 3 by connecting the lines of the chest dart and we corrected the curve of the armhole,
marking the same side as on the back.

Confección.

We cut, pass threads and baste starting from the clamps. We try and sew.
We proceed the same way with the lining.

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The vest will have faces that we will cut confronting each other, face to face, the patterns that will go.
take and marking the edge on the fabric. They will be approximately 7 cm. To cut the facings,
We will even out the edges with scissors. Once cut, we will interface them and attach them to the vest.
Primero las unimos en el hombro dando la forma de éste y las cosemos.

Then, opening these seams, we basted all along the edge.

If we put darts in the side, we will also need to shape the armpit.

Once the layers are basted, we sew and place them. For this, we cut the fabric and the interfacing.
what remains. We hem the edge so that the view looks good and we can sew the hem of the
vest and the views to hold it.

In all seams, we must make notches, small cuts, so that nothing pulls on us.

We place the lining by matching seams and darts and sew it by hand with a stitch.
hidden, except for the bottom part that is sewn like a hem to give it some margin.

Finally, we topstitch the edges, make buttonholes, and sew on buttons.

When making the patterns, we first make the front pattern with the length of the vest that we have.
measured.

We have taken into account the chest clamp that we have given to the side, seam of the middle.
of the forward, so when making the back, we will set the length of the pattern to the bodice length
back plus what we have added to the length of the front waist to achieve the length of the vest.
Once the back is done, we measure the side seam against the front, and we redo the armhole of the...
forward.

Chapter: Jacket

We start from the basic patterns of the front and back shirt, with the length of the pattern being the
length of the jacket and the width that we are going to calculate.

We divide the bust measurement by 2, subtract 2 from the back, and add it to the front.
forward, we divide both measurements by 2 and add 4 for allowance, and we have the width of the
patterns.

The collar will be a shirt collar added to the box neckline.

In the front center of the garment, we add 2.5 cm for the buttons.

We lowered the neckline by 1 cm so we can then put on the collar.

To make the shoulder line, we draw a line 4 cm from the top.

The front armhole goes from the end of the shoulder to the armhole height passing through the middle of the width.
From the edge we will mark at 12 cm measured from the top.

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At the height of the waist length, we mark the darts at one-eighth of the waist circumference and they will be
14 cm long and 3 cm wide.

The side of the garment goes from the end of the armhole to the end of the pattern passing through a point
we mark at the length of the waist, this measurement will be a quarter of the circumference of
waist plus 3 cm of seam plus 4 of ease.

The pattern of the back, neckline, shoulder, and armhole is like the base.

At the height of the high waist, we mark the darts at one-eighth of the waist circumference of 16 cm.
11 on the lower and 12 on the upper.

Here we must also mark the point through which the side will pass in the fourth part of the outline.
3 cm more than the waist plus 2 cm of ease.

When making these patterns, we need to ensure that they do not end up tight in the hips. Hence,
saquemos lo necesario para conseguir esto y además 1 cm más o menos de holgura y conseguir así
el final del costado.

Collar pattern.

We create a rectangle whose width is the sum of the measurements of the curves of the front neckline.
and back, and the height of the rectangle will be the width of the neck.

To the right of the rectangle, starting from the upper right corner, we draw a slanted line.
hacia fuera del rectángulo.

Then we draw two curves, one connecting the upper right corner of the rectangle to a point
located 1.5 cm below the top left corner of the rectangle, the other parallel to this one
desde la esquina inferior izquierda del rectángulo hasta que se encuentre con la línea inclinada.

Manga pattern.

The rectangle will be sleeve long by sleeve wide, which we divide in half lengthwise.

We have to mark the lowering of the cup, which is calculated by adding the measurements of the front armholes.
y espalda, las curvas, dividiendo entre 4 y sumando 2.

At this height, measuring from the top, we make a horizontal line.

Above this line, there are two rectangles from which we draw their diagonal from the vertex.
common superior they have up to their respective opposite vertices.

These diagonals are divided into four parts.

From top to bottom on the left diagonal at the first mark, we mark 1.5 cm upwards.
(point A), the 2nd mark will be point B and at the 3rd mark we mark 2.5 cm downward (point C).
Now we connect the two ends of the diagonal with a curve passing through points A, B, and C. This

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será la parte del delantero, la otra diagonal será la espalda. En la espalda las marcas serán 1 cm
upwards and 0.5 cm downwards and we will make the curve the same.

To finish the pattern, we only have to mark the cuff on the lower line of the initial rectangle.
We measure a fist that allows us to take out our hand and we place that measurement halfway on each side of
the vertical line that has divided the rectangle. Then we connect these points with the ends of the
cup drop and we have the pattern.

Sewing.

We cut, pass loose threads, baste, test, and if it looks good, we sew. When passing threads, it ...
you have to mark the crossing of the buttons in the front.

We move on to attaching the sleeves, for this we gather a bit of the cup so that it adapts to the armhole.

We try it on, and if it fits well, we sew it.

En el cuello la parte que no se ve irá cortada al bies y entretelada.

In the jacket, we interface the facings and hems.

To test the neck, we can use a piece of interfacing, which will allow us to see
about the jacket, the size it has.

To attach the collar, we sew it on the inside and then turn it inside out, sewing it to...
puntada escondida, antes cortaremos la tela que sobra y daremos piquetes en los extremos.

The fabric without a collar is tucked in and sewn with a hidden stitch.

We cut the lining with the same patterns, sew it, and attach it to the garment as we said in
the vest. This lining will be held in the armpit by the leftover fabrics from the seams. In the cuff
things like the bass.

In the sleeves, ironing is very important to shape the cup. Both fabrics are ironed.
seams that are excess from the stitching inwards, clearly marking the shape.

The edges in this part, sisa, we will leave about 1 cm more or less. The shoulder pad will be placed at the
edge of these fabrics well secured with a few stitches using double thread.

Before putting on the lining, we will fasten the hems and the bottoms of the jacket. Since it is lined, it is not

necessary to overlock.

Chapter: Pants

We need to calculate, in principle, 2 measurements:

Knee length: total length - hip height, we divide this difference by 2 and subtract 5.
The shot will be a quarter of the hip circumference plus 1.

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Boss.

Forward.

Rectángulo inicial: cuarta parte de contorno de cadera por el largo de pantalón; a lo que
we add to the right ½ ½ ¼ hip contour for the shot.

In the initial rectangle, we do the same as in the skirt up to the hip height, the dart will be
10 cm long.

In the addition we made to the initial rectangle, we mark the height of the shot which is the seam.
center of the pants. We make a curve that connects the vertical center line of the pants with the
end of the line that we have marked for the shooting height

We mark the knee length measured from the hip height.

En la línea inferior del rectángulo marcamos la mitad de la cuarta parte del contorno de cadera más
The addition we made, we connect this point with the end of the clamp with a straight line.

On both sides of this point, we mark 8 cm which will be the bottom of the pants.

One of the points we connect with the hip correcting the curve and the other point we connect with the
end of the projectile curve, making a curve as we approach the top.

Back.

Initial rectangle: pant length by a quarter of hip circumference to which we add the
length of pant by ½ ¼ hip circumference.

We make the dart as in the 11 cm long skirt. The hip curve must rise 0.5 cm by
on top of the initial rectangle.

In the added section, we marked the shot.

The center seam of the pants will not be the right straight of the initial rectangle as in the front.
A slightly angled line will be drawn that will enter 1.5 cm from the upper right corner of the
rectángulo y subirá 2 cm por encima de éste (punto A). Marcamos la mitad del ancho del rectángulo
added above the shooting line in the initial rectangle (point B). We connect A and B with a
recta. Además unimos A con el extremo de la cadera mediante una curva un poco abobada hacia
upwards extending the lines of the clamp. We make a curve from point B to the line that
marca el tiro.

Finally, we finished as in the front, marking 9 cm on each side of the center for the hem.

Modifications.

I have made the pleated pants, so we will have to transform the front.

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Para ello cortamos el patrón por la línea que hemos trazado desde la pinza hasta la mitad del bajo.
Then we paste it on another piece of paper as follows: we draw a long horizontal straight line and
another vertical perpendicular and we stick the 2 parts of the pattern on both sides opening it from the bottom
as if it were a fan and separating both pieces as many cm as we want to give to the
folds.

To shape the waist, we make the folds in the paper and over them we create the waist.
correct

By placing the zipper in the front, a rectangle of 18 by 4 cm is added to the rise.

Confection.

We cut, thread, baste and test. If it's good, we sew and overlock.

To attach the zipper, we cut a rectangle of folded fabric that we basted underneath the
zipper (female) on the left side looking from above.

We will place the folded fabric at the right height (end) of the zipper and let it hang over
the left.

To join it to the pants, we take out 1 cm, more or less, outside of the loose threads on the left side.
From the opening, we join the zipper with the fabric we have placed underneath and we topstitch.
along the edge. Then we topstitched the other side shaping the bottom and being careful to
do not catch the fabric that is under the zipper. We sew this stitch 2.5 cm from the edge.
Yes, it will be the mark of the loose threads. To finish, we overlock.

The waistband will be placed just like in the skirt and is cut the same.

Chapter: American with Flaps

The width of the patterns will be half of the bust or chest circumference, subtract 2 on the back and
add them in the striker, divide again by 2 and add 3 of clearance to both pieces.

The length of the patterns will be the length of the jacket.

Back.

Como siempre. En este caso la pinza que va por debajo de la cintura la marcamos hasta el final de
the garment, down to the bottom and the one on top is 16 cm long. From the end of the dart to the middle
From the shoulder, we will draw a straight line to cut the pattern. At the waist height, we will mark the.
a quarter of the waist circumference plus 3cm of seam, plus 3 of ease. We check that in the
The bottom part of the garment has enough measure for the hip, and if not, we can take it out a bit.

Forward.

We add 2.5 cm for the button crossing.

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Below the waist height, it is the same as always; we lower the dart to the bottom as in the
back. The clamp above rises up to chest height and from there we make the clamp of
We will not sew the chest in the garment since when we cut the pattern, we will stick it, giving it to the pattern.

From the point where the 2 clamps converge and the middle of the shoulder, we draw a straight line to
part the pattern. When giving the chest pin to the pattern, it will be necessary to correct the armhole, it also has to be

check if there is enough measurement for the hip.

For the neckline, we first draw the normal and now we address the lapel.

Forward.

We start from the base pattern. Both the front and the back have a side seam that goes up to the
shoulder and we will take advantage of this to give the chest clamp to the front on the side just like
we made in the vest. Therefore, the rectangle of the front will be a little longer than the back,
to be exact, the difference between the front and back torso lengths will be the width that
we give it to the chest clip.

The clamp located above the waistline will rise to the bust height at a point whose
distancia al centro (sin contar espacio de cruce) será la mitad de la separación de busto más 1 cm.
The chest clamp will also reach this point. On the long line of the waist, we will mark the
quarter of the waist circumference plus 3 cm of dart plus 2.5 cm of ease and at the lower part
We must control the fourth part of the hip from the pattern to which we will also give some ease.
(1,5cm más o menos).

Cuando le demos la pinza de pecho al costadillo hemos de rehacer la sisa controlando el punto al
what should arrive by comparing the forward's side with that of the back.

We also need to round off the peaks that remain.

To make the flap, we draw a straight line from the point where we want the first one to be.
button (A) (that we measure from the neckline) to a point B that will be 2 cm outside the neckline
extending the shoulder line.

C is the point from which we extend the shoulder for the 1st line. We draw two semicircular lines.
from points B and C upwards. On the line coming from C, we mark the path of the neckline
from the back plus 0.5 cm which will be point D.

Making a right angle at D (a right angle) going up from B, we achieve the upper line.
del cuello, sobre esta línea marcamos 8 cm que es un ancho normal y obtenemos el punto E.

To make the other part of the flap, we draw a vertical line down from C onto which
We mark 5 cm (F). Making a right angle at F and B, we mark a line from F that will extend outside.
from the crossing of the buttons on which we mark the G point that will be the bottom tip of the flap and
that is 8 cm from line AB. To finish this part, we draw a semicircular line that goes from A
up to G. We mark 3.5 cm from G on the line FG although this measurement will depend on everyone's taste.
one. We obtain H, from H and with the angle we desire, we mark a straight line on which

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we mark the desired 3.5 cm, we obtain I. We just need to draw a semicurve from I to E and
we will have finished.

Since the CF line would give us a very strange shape of the neck, we kill it a bit by drawing a line.
Line segment from C to point J, located approximately 1 cm to the right of line AB on the line.
FG. The crossing of the buttons in our pattern is on the left.

Back.

We will make the base pattern with the length of the jacket and the width that we have calculated, controlling
at the bottom, the fourth part of the hip with a few centimeters of ease.

The dart located below the waist length will extend to the end of the pattern; and the one above
The size will measure 16 cm and will be done at 1/8 of the waist circumference from the center of the piece.

Para hacer el costadillo, trazaremos una línea recta desde el final de la pinza hasta la mitad del
shoulder.

Basic pattern tailored sleeve.

It is done on a folded sheet where we make a rectangle of 22 cm by the length of the sleeve.
We divide it in half into 2 elongated rectangles. We mark the cup drop, ½ drop of
cup and elbow height at 34 cm.

Some modifications are needed: I take out and put in 3 cm where the seam goes, so next to the...
I need to transfer the measurement from the right side to the left and redo the bottom with a curve.
manga.

In the four rectangles that we have left above when marking the drop of the cup and half of the drop
From the cup, we create 4 curves that will take on the shape of a lemon, the vertices that will mark this
lemon is one on the line of the middle of the cup drop 2 cm from the left line of the
initial rectangle, the other 3 are on the upper line of the initial rectangle, the cut with the line
que nos dividía en dos rectángulos alargados, otro en el corte de esta línea con la bajada de copa y
the other at the midpoint of the descent of the cup with the right side of the initial rectangle.

On the lemon curve located in the lower left rectangle, we mark the point located 3 cm.
inward measured horizontally. This point will mark the height of a curved line that will go
from the vertex of the lemon to a curved line we draw from 3 cm outside the rectangle
initial at the height of the middle of the cup descent passing 1 cm outside the initial rectangle to the
height from the elbow to a point located 2 cm above the lower left vertex of the rectangle
initial and 3 cm outside of this rectangle. We draw another parallel curve from the point we have
marked on the lemon down to the cuff. Finally, we make a curve from the right side.
from the rectangle at the elbow height to the lower line of the rectangle at 7 cm from the bottom vertex
right of the rectangle. We connect this point with the end of the curve on the left and we have
the ace up the sleeve.

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The pattern is trimmed along the upper line of the lemon following the curve we have added that
it will be bulged downwards, then we continue along the curve we have made outside the line
left of the initial rectangle, then the bottom of the sleeve and finally the curve on the right and the
straight part. This will be a part of the sleeve that will be the bottom paper, the other part we will take the
top paper and we will cut along the inner curve on the left down to the bottom line of the lemon and
Then along the lower line of the lemon.

Sewing.

Initial steps are the same.

The hidden part of the neck is cut on the bias, interfaced, and cut into 2 pieces.

Hemos entretelado todo el delantero para darle más prestancia a la tela. Por lo que después de la
test we disassemble the garment, interface the front and reassemble it.

On the flap once sewn, we make a few long stitches to hold it and give it shape.

The collar is mounted the same as the other jacket.

The tailored sleeve has the particularity of having two seams, at the back the bottom part.
It goes unsewn and small decorative buttons are added. It will always mount the front part.
On the back and in the open lower part, it will be sewn with a hidden stitch.

El forro se monta igual que el de la otra chaqueta y al colocarlo, cuidamos de que quede flojo en la
back part so it doesn't spill.

Chapter: Dress

The width of the patterns is calculated the same as always, using the bust measurement, adding 1 cm.
slack

The dress has a side seam, so we will add the bust dart to the side seam and the length of the pattern.
delantero será 3 cm mayor al largo del patrón de la espalda que será el largo del vestido.

We will overlay all the views.

Forward.

The pattern will be that of the shirt and the skirt joined without sleeves.

We give more cleavage, we insert 2 cm at the shoulder and 3 cm at the bottom.

The chest clamps and the one above the waist will reach a point located at the height of
chest or bust, measuring half of the bust separation plus 1 cm.

The clamp below the waist will be 11 cm long.

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At the hem, at the high hip we must mark a quarter of the hip and make the pattern by
ahí.

Espalda.

We also corrected the neckline on the back by bringing it in 2 cm at the shoulder and slightly less than 1 cm.

from below.

A las cosas que no llevan hombrera se le ponen 5cm, en vez de 4, de bajada de hombro..

Since the zipper goes at the back, we take the opportunity to shape it a bit and then we run the dart.
y el extremo del costado. El entalle será de 1 ó 2 cm, mínimo 1.

We make the fitting from the top to where we measure the armhole width and from the bottom to a little.
below the high hip. If the hip is very low, we make the dart up to there.

The clamps will be one-eighth of the waist circumference measured from the waistline and will be
16 cm long above the waist and 11 cm long below.

We need to check, as with the forward, the measurement of the hip.

Sewing.

Cortar, pasar hilos, hilvanar y probar.

I had to raise it a bit at the side because it was showing too much from below (armpit).

Sewing, you need to put views on the neckline and armholes because it has neither collar nor sleeves.

I have only added a lining from the waist down, to cut it the pattern is marked from the waist.
A margin of 3 or 4 cm is left at the top and overlocked. It is sewn to the zipper with a hidden stitch.
y el bajo se pespuntea.

When cutting the fabric, it is cut with a margin of 3 cm on the sides, 5 cm on the bottoms, and 1.5 or 2 cm on the

restaurant.

The lining is held to the sides and to the darts.

Para entretelar telas finas se utiliza entretela de punto.

Capítulo: Chaquetilla corta

The width of the pattern will be calculated with a 2 cm allowance.

The length will be 3 cm longer at the front due to the bust dart.

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We will give the chest dart in the front to the waist dart, for that we cut the dart with
su longitud y luego seguimos abriendo por la línea recta que marca la vertical de la pinza y la pinza
From the chest, we do it up to that line. Then we adjust the armhole line.

Boss.

Forward.

Initial rectangle: length of the jacket plus 3 cm of chest dart by the calculated width.

We make the same neckline as in the dress.

As it is a short jacket, the waist dart will go over the lower line of the rectangle, we will make it.
to the eighth part of the waist and will be 14 cm long.

Back.

Initial rectangle: jacket length by calculated back width.

The neckline, just like in the dress, and the dart will go on the lower side of the rectangle at one eighth.
from the waist measuring 16 cm long.

Manga.

Just like the one on the jacket.

Confección.

We have reinforced only the views with knit interfacing, which are held a little before
put on the cover.

Chapter: Bias-cut flared skirt with matching blouse

We fold the fabric on the bias, for this we fold the fabric in half following the direction of the grain.
fabric, then placing the fold of the fabric up, we fold the fabric at one of the vertices
superiors, if we choose the left one, we place the fold on the left side by its vertex.

At this point, we cut along the shape of the curve of the waist wherever we have the fourth part.
of the waist and length, taking into account the fold of the fabric, the desired one. We finish off
with a zipper on one side, waistband, and gathering the hem, and that's it because in my case it doesn't have a lining. In

esta falda basta con hacer una costura lateral.

Since cutting on the bias wastes a lot of fabric, I had a lot of leftover fabric to make myself a shirt.
I made it with dropped sleeves, without buttons, without darts, and with a boat neckline.

We calculate the width of the pattern as always with 1 cm of ease.

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Patterns.

Forward.

Initial rectangle: shirt length by the calculated width.

Instead of the usual 4 cm drop for the shoulder, we put 2 cm. To make the neckline in the
On the side line, we mark the usual 7 cm, and on the upper line, the neckline must go through a
point located 3 cm further inside the normal shoulder rising to the new shoulder. The new
hombro parte del mismo punto del otro, uno de los extremos del escote del patrón base.

When drawing the shoulder, it will protrude more or less 2 cm from the initial rectangle, the armhole will be a line.

vertical that will go from the end of the shoulder to the descent of the armpit. To finish the pattern we do
a semicurve from the end of the armhole to the bottom of the pattern. This line will touch the
rectangle and below it will be separated by 1.5 cm from the rectangle. Above it will decrease the first 5 cm,
then it goes very close to the rectangle 8 cm and then starts to separate up to 1.5 cm from the edge,
on the outside, of the lower vertex.

Back.

Just like the forward. We lowered the neckline on the vertical line by 3 cm.

Confection.

Pasos iniciales igual. Como al probarla no me cabía por la cabeza le dí más escote trazando una
curve parallel to the one we had facing and passing loose threads.

Yo le he puesto vistas, no las he entretelado, pero habría quedado mejor.

To finish, I have topstitched the hem, armholes, and neckline to secure the facings. It would have been easier
cut the neckline and armholes along the threads, by their line, and finish with the bias tape sold at the haberdashery that

you just have to baste them.

To make these garments I have used a double-width fabric.

Chapter: Shirt blouse

Fist.

A pattern is prepared that is a rectangle of the width we desire at the cuff by the outline of
add 5 cm for it to fit.

We cut it double to make the cuff, and we interface what will be in contact with the skin and
we sewed all the sides except one of the long ones.

A la mitad de la parte de la espalda de la manga cortamos la tela unos 8 cm. En este corte, en el
on the side that is closest to the seam of the sleeve we make a small hem that
we sew with a hidden stitch. We cut a rectangle of fabric measuring 12 by 6 cm that will be the

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 Curso de Corte y confecció[Link]

sardinetta (fabric that is placed on top to finish the cuff). We place the right side of this fabric over the
revés del lado del corte que tenemos sin rematar justo al borde (borde con borde) a lo largo del
cut. We sew with the machine, we turn the fabric (sardinet) outward pulling it out about 1 cm
(we line up along the edge, leave a sardine of about 2 cm and fold it inward the
another edge on the right side of the sleeve fabric, we baste it and finally finish it.
sardine on the top either pointy or straight, topstitching all around making a
square above and a cross inside the square in the sardine and we finish it straight.

We make folds to the sleeve, two closer to the sardine and always towards the open side and another in the
Sewing of the sleeve also towards the open side. With the pleats, the sleeve must be the right measurement.
from the cuff, then we place the cuff by sewing it with the machine and on the outside, we turn back towards
inside and we topstitch the edges or sew with a hidden stitch.

Shirt collar with a foot or leg.

The two parts are lined, the neck at the bottom and the foot at the top, the other way around.

We have already done the shirt collar in the first jacket, let's look at the pattern of the leg.
We make a rectangle the same length as the neck and 4 cm wide.

Marcamos 1,5 cm en la izquierda y en este extremo estarán el ojal y el botón.

The pattern will start at a point located 1.5 cm above the bottom left vertex, from there
we make a quarter circle to a point located at the mark we made at 1.5 cm, 1 cm
below the upper side of the rectangle. We then finish this curve at the upper vertex
right of the rectangle. The pattern of the leg below will have 2 parts, one for the front part
of the neckline that will be a curved bulge downward, and the one on the back will be a curve
abombada hacia arriba, que va desde donde acaba la otra curva hasta 1 cm por encima del vértice
lower right corner of the rectangle.

The path of the lower curve of the neck and the upper curve of the leg (without the part of the buttonhole and button)
they look the same.

The bottom part of the leg is in two pieces because the leg in the shirt must remain vertical. The
A normal shirt collar is made with a single curve because it will be folded.

Sewing.

I have used a white polyester fabric with a lot of drape.

The initial rectangles are half the width of the shirt by length, both the same.
I have added the cross to the forward.

At the bottom, I have left 2 openings of 15 cm on the sides to also use it as

The pattern is very simple, the neckline is normal, the shoulder is normal, the armhole is normal, and the side will be the

straight line of the rectangle.

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 Course in Cutting and [Link]

In my neck, I didn't make a neck and collar but rather combined both pieces into one.

The collar in the shirts does not need to be cut on the bias.

The interfacing used is knit.

He has hemstitched the whole bottom to finish it like a blouse.

The shoulder pads need to be covered with the same fabric cut on the bias so that it gives.

We make the pattern for the normal sleeve. The width of the sleeve is usually approximately 10 cm.
less than the measurement of the armhole length.

In the cuff, we only insert the sleeve pattern 2 cm on each side of the initial rectangle.
We narrow the sleeve a little, for this, in the middle of the seam line, on the 2 lines.
metemos 0,5 cm y hacemos rectas hasta los 2 extremos de la línea.

We raised the hem of the sleeve by 4 cm for a cuff of 6 cm.

In this shirt, all the edges of the fabric are overlocked.

Para que la hombrera se doble por la mitad, la pespunteamos con pespunte doble desde el extremo
curved from the same point to the middle of the shoulder pad.

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