Sea waves (also known as 'chop')
Longer period waves move faster and reach distant sites first, & shorter
period waves may reach the site several days later. This process is called
WAVE DISPERSION. It implies that low-frequency (long-period)
waves have a greater propagation speed than high-frequency waves.
Evanescent Wave: Found near structures or boundaries, such as
seabed, breakwaters, or around piers. A wave that decays
exponentially in space, typically not propagating energy.
Solitary Wave: is a single wave crest that travels steadily without
changing its shape and size.
The wave breaking conditions:
H/d ≥ 0.78 - shallow water depths
H/L ≥ 0.14 - deeper water depths
crest angle < 120 degree
The HHW & LLW occur when the centers of the three celestial bodies
involved passes through a common straight line, a phenomenon
(SYZYGY) that takes place in every 11 years and 11 days.
#Sainflou (1928)
➡️Non-breaking waves (for deep water)
➡️assumes force is essentially hydrostatic
➡️Based on standing waves
➡️Uses trochoidal wave theory
➡️Pressure distribution when wave crest arrives
➡️Pressure distribution when wave trough arrives
#Minikin (1950) - used in U.S.
➡️breaking waves
➡️Based on wave pressure records and shock pressure
➡️pressure distribution with peak pressure at or near the still-water level
➡️vertical breakwater resting on rubble mound
➡️impact pressure decreases parabolically to zero at z = -0.5H
➡️generally overestimates pressures
#Goda (1974) - current Japanese standard
➡️breaking and non-breaking waves (for shallow & intermediate depths)
➡️based on model tests
➡️design against single largest wave force in design sea state
➡️uses highest wave in wave group
➡️Hmax is estimated at 5H1/3 seaward of breakwater
➡️modified to incorporate random wave breaking model
➡️assumes trapezoidal shape for pressure distribution along front
➡️Caisson is imbedding into the rubble mound
➡️Uplift pressure distribution is assumed triangular