Montréal and Québec City Travel Guide
Montréal and Québec City Travel Guide
Made by dk.
06. July 2009
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Things to do
Top 10
Parc du Mont-Royal
The geographic highlight of Montral are undeniably Mont-Royals steep slopes. Named by Jacques Cartier in 1535 (see Jacques Cartier), the protected district of Parc du Mont-Royal covers more than 343 acres of forested mountain, providing abundant green spaces, shrubs and flowers, as well as habitats for hundreds of species of birds and other wildlife. Designed in 1876 by Frederick Law Olmsted, Mont-Royal continues to inspire locals as an arboreal delight in the center of their metropolis activity options, depending on the time of year, include skating, cycling, paddle-boating, tobogganing and snowshoeing. To the northwest of the park is the impressive Oratoire St-Joseph. A new heritage status protects the Parc du Mont-Royal from commercial development.
Top 10 Sights
La Croix Standing 31 m (100 ft) high, the original steel cross was erected by Paul de Chomede, Sieur de Maisonneuve on this site in 1643.
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Centre de la Montagne This is the base of a citizen group focusing on the preservation of and education about both the historic and natural legacy of the park.
Trail Systems The park has a network of forested corridors, popular with cyclists and runners in summer and cross-country skiiers in winter. Lookouts Belvedere Kondiaronk is the lookout of the Chalet du Mont-Royal. The Camilien Houde lookout faces east over the river. Locals sometimes refer to it as Lovers Lookout.
Tam-Tam Festival Sundays in the park during the summer belong to the exuberant Tam-Tam Festival. For more than 30 years drummers, musicians, dancers and artisans have met at the Monument Sir George-tienne Cartier to party.
Cemeteries Cimetire Notre-Dame-des-Neiges (Catholic) and Cimetire Mont-Royal (non-Catholic) are the two main resting places of the city. Far from sombre, they are adorned with lovely statues, sculptures and luxuriant plantings.
Lac aux Castors The heart of Parc du Mont-Royal is Lac aux Castors. People gather during fair weather to paddle boats or to ice skate in winter.
Police Stables Visits to the Police Cavalry Stables are possible, and it is common to see officers on horseback cantering through the park.
Maison Smith Built for Boston merchant Hosea B. Smith in 1858, Maison Smith is now home to the Centre de la Montagne exhibitions.
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sick. He attributed his skills to St Josephs intervention and petitioned for donations to build the Oratoire. Neo-Classical Architecture Inspired by the temples of Corinth, architects Dalb Viau and Alphonse Venne designed the exterior of St Josephs, but the completion of the project was a collaboration of Lucien Parent, monk Dom Paul Bellot and architect Grard Notebaert.
Altar and Stations of the Cross The magnificent altar, crucifix and wooden statues of the 12 Apostles are creations of the French artist Henri Charlier. Roger Villiers sculpted the Way of the Cross between 19579; the stunning interior mosaic was added to the altar in 1960.
Muse de St-Joseph An extensive religious art collection heads the permanent features on display in the Museum of St Joseph. A fascinating wax figure exhibition depicts the life of the Holy Family in scenarios created by Canadian artist Joseph Guardo.
Crypt Church Created in 1916 at the foot of the basilica, the crypt church has a main altar of Carrara marble. Jean-Charles Charest, a Montral artist, has renovated the sanctuary with a new tabernacle, lectern, colonnade, and oak chairs. Dont miss the stunning stained-glass windows.
du 10 Les Petits ChanteursthenMont-Royal church Begun in 1956 by the head of the Father Brault, the oratorys choir is made up of 170 boys aged between 9 and 17. Their silky vocals embellish more than 60 religious festivities each year, both at the oratory, around the country, and abroad. The boys receive their schooling here when they are not performing.
Parc du Mont-Royal
Practical information
Map C2
300 Stairs It is common to see a pilgrim struggling up the 300 stairs to the basilica on his knees. Since many climb each year, plans to refurbish the stairs are in place, to the tune of $8 million.
(514) 843 8240 [Link] Dis. access Free Oratoire St-Joseph: 3800 chemin Queen-Mary (514) 733 8211 Mass 7am, 8:30am, 10am, 11:30am, 12:15pm, & 4:30pm MonFri, 4:30pm & 8pm Sat; 7am, 8am, 9:30am, 11am, 12:30pm, 4:30pm, & 8pm Sun Dis. access Free [Link]
Pilgrims Pavilion A convenient overnight hostel adjacent to the parking area contains a souvenir shop and cafeteria. A resident organization also helps arrange personalized religious journeys for the faithful.
Votive Chapel Canes, crutches and other medical aids left behind by cured pilgrims line the walls in this small but inspirational chapel. Visitors can light a devotional candle, then walk past a statue of St Joseph to the room of Brother Andrs tomb.
Top tips
If visiting Montral in winter you can still enjoy a version of the Tam-Tam Festival, as well as a drink, at the nearby El Zaz Bar (see El Zaz Bar). Parking fees are high in Parc du Mont-Royal. Park your car inside the grounds of one of the cemeteries and walk to the summit lookout.
Brother Andrs Tomb Brother Andr died on January 6, 1937, at the age of 91. A beautiful fresco, created by Henri Charlier, decorates his tomb wall. Also here is a register of millions of pilgrim signatures seeking canonization for the venerable Brother.
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Basilique Notre-Dame
The most magnificent landmark of Vieux-Montral is this mammoth Gothic Revival undertaking designed by Irish architect James ODonnell and built between 18239. This thriving Catholic church has a stunning medieval-style interior that features walnut-wood carvings, exquisite stained-glass windows, 24-carat gold stars in a vaulted blue ceiling, as well as one of the largest Casavant organs in North America. Dont miss the fine art paintings in the nave and the impressive Chapelle du Sacr-Coeur hidden behind the altar. Architect James ODonnell is buried at the foot of the first column on the side of the churchwardens pew.
Top 10 Features
Gothic Revival Architecture Rectangular in shape, contrary to the norms of the day, Notre-Dame features arcades with cross-ribbed vaulting.
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Daudelin Sculpting Sculptor Charles Daudelins bronze reredos , which hangs behind the Chapelle du Sacr-Coeur, is among his most dramatic works.
Stained-Glass Windows In 1929 Olivier Maurault, a priest and author, conceived the present-day windows, which depict both early religious events as well as scenes from the everyday lives of people of Vieux-Montral. Le Gros Bourdon It is possible to hear the amazing chimes of Le Gros Bourdon, the largest bell in North America, some 30 km (18 miles) outside Montral.
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Casavant Organ Joseph Casavant was a Qubcois blacksmith and the first significant builder of pipe organs in Canada. He built the famous Notre-Dame organ for the basilica in 1891. The Altar In 1880 local artists Henri Bourich and Louis-Philippe Hbert created complementary wood sculptings backed by azure for this spectacular altarpiece.
Famous Weddings Many famous couples have tied the knot in Notre-Dame but the most mentioned celebrity wedding is that of recording star Cline Dion in 1994 (see Cline Dion).
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The Pulpit Architect Victor Bourgeaus first known work is the 1844 spiral staircase pulpit, which some say resembles the tiers of a wedding cake. Set in the middle of the church, it allows the congregation to hear sermons without amplification. Chapelle du Sacr-Coeur Built in 1888, this gem hides behind the main altar. Countless marriage ceremonies take place here, inspiring the moniker of The Wedding Chapel.
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Basilique Notre-Dame
Practical information
110 rue Notre-Dame Ouest, Place dArmes Map K3 (514) 842 2925 Open 8am4:30pm daily Adm $4 [Link]
Top tips
Claude Postel Chocolatier (75 Notre-Dame Ouest) serves incredible sandwiches, coffee and desserts. Breathtaking sound and light (son et lumire ) shows are worth attending during the summer season.
James ODonnell
Irish architect James ODonnell was contracted to draw plans and oversee the construction of Basilique Notre-Dame in 1823. A Protestant by birth, ODonnells pride in the basilica caused him to convert to Catholicism, allowing him burial inside his church. Synthesizing many divergent design elements from contributing architects, he introduced the Gothic Revival style into Canadian architecture.
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Parc Olympique
One of Montrals most remarkable attractions, Parc Olympique is also one of its most controversial. Built for the 1976 Olympic Games, it remained unfinished until the 1980s, despite a cost of $1.4 billion, and the retractable roof over the stadium has never fully worked. Nevertheless, visitors can easily spend a full day or two entertained by the varied exhibitions, sights and activities available within this immense quadrilateral. Ride the funicular to the top of the Tour Montral for the most enthralling view of the region.
Top 10 Sights
Stade Olympique Designed by the French architect Roger Taillibert and constructed by local engineers for the 1976 Olympics, the stadium seats 65,000 people, has a cable-suspended roof and is covered in a membrane of space-age Kevlar material. Today it is used to stage rock concerts and baseball games.
Muse Chteau Dufresne The Gothic-inspired private residence, was originally designed and constructed by Parisian architect Jules Rnard and Marius Dufresne between 1915 and 1918. It now welcomes a variety of decorative exhibitions.
Arna Maurice-Richard Named after the Montral Canadiens hockey legend Maurice Rocket Richard, the indoor rink continues to promote the sport. The museum Univers Maurice-Richard features the scoring aces memorabilia.
Centre Sportif This sports complex houses six swimming pools with continuously recirculating water. Other resources include badminton courts, a scuba diving club, volleyball, and more.
Biodome The Biodome houses dazzling ecological attractions, with indigenous plants and animals of the Tropical Forest, Polar World and Laurentian Forest.
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Insectarium Quebecer Georges Brossard, known as the Bug Man, roams the world collecting exotic insects then displays them in this riveting showcase. Jardin Botanique Founded in 1931 and covering nearly 200 acres, the lush gardens were created by gifted horticulturist Henry Teuscher (see Jardin Botanique Features). Tour Montral For the best view of Montral ride the extraordinary, 2-minute, 76-seat funicular in the Tour Montral. An observatory sits atop the worlds highest leaning tower, almost 152 m (500 ft) from ground to summit. March Maisonneuve More than just a taste of fresh market fare, the March Maisonneuve also provides a gathering point. Attracting clientele from all over the city and the province, the market is a great spot for people-watching.
Chinese Gardens A classic example of a Ming Dynasty garden, complete with its own Lac du Rve (Lake of Dreams (see First Nations Garden)). This garden covers over 6 acres and is lovingly nurtured by specialist teams from both Montral and Shanghai. These are the largest Chinese gardens outside China.
Lac du Rve A lush domain in the center of the Chinese Gardens, where visitors can watch resident geese and ducks, find a comfortable area to relax, or just wander through the landscaped lake
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area surrounded by rock gardens, bridges and areas for reflection. First Nations Garden The First Nations (native Canadians) celebrate their magical relationship with the plant kingdom within these 6 acres of gardens filled with interactive terminals, shows and special events. The area is divided up into five different zones: hardwood and softwood forests, an exploration of Nordic life, an interpretation pavilion, and a gathering area.
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Ferns
Bromeliads
Sukiya Japanese Tea Pavilion Honoring the traditional Japanese home, architect Hisato Hiraoka has gathered together the artistic ideals of Japanese society within this graceful structure. There is also an art gallery, Zen and bonsai gardens, an exhibition room and a gift shop.
Cyads
Orchids
Wu Yee-Sun Bonsai Collection At any time of year, in any kind of weather, the captivating Wu Yee-Sun Collection of miniature bonsai trees is on permanent exhibit inside their greenhouse. This is one of the most impressive and largest collections of its kind in the world.
Treehouse This remarkable interpretation center and interactive exhibition is laid out in four parts: Trees in our History, Anatomy and Growth, Trees and the Forest, and The Many Uses of Trees. The Treehouse exhibit is located in the northeast sector of the gardens.
Ballade Since the gardens spread over many acres, take advantage of the popular Ballade minibus circulating continuously throughout the day along the paved pathways. Clearly marked areas within the gardens indicate where buses make regular stops.
Libraries Two fascinating libraries are situated within the gardens. The public library boasts an extensive childrens section and there is an academic library that is home to numerous scientific books, journals and papers, including studies of botany.
Top tips
The best place to eat, for both price and atmosphere, is Moes Deli on rue Sherbrooke (see Moes Deli & Bar). Montral in Motion is a free photography exhibition capturing 100 years of the citys history, located in the Observatory on top of the Tour Montral.
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Aroids
Begonias
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Muse Pointe--Callire
Ascending like a sentinel from the confluence of the St Pierre and St Lawrence rivers, this National Historic Site honors the founding of the city at Place Royale. Within this landmark of stone and brushed steel are three sections: a chic building constructed on top of the ruins of older structures; the archeological crypt; and the renovated Customs House. A self-guided tour system allows each visitor to explore at their own pace, but guides are employed throughout the site to answer questions. These escorts are accomplished storytellers, bringing the history of the city to life.
Top 10 Exhibits
peron Building Architect Dan S. Hanganu designed this edifice to create a building that is an exhibition in itself. The front door marks the spot of the first shelter in Ville-Marie (1642).
10 Montral Love Stories This series of intimate portraits of the city draws on
photographs, videos, and first-hand accounts of Montralers.
Tales of a City One of the most inspired introductions to any museum, this 16-minute voyage through the discovery of Montral enchants visitors and sets the stage for a memorable visit.
Muse Pointe--Callire
Practical information
350 Place Royale at rue de la Commune Map K3 (514) 872 9150 [Link] Open 10am5pm Tue Fri, 11am5pm SatSun Dis. access Adm $10.00
First Catholic Cemetery in North America Residents of the original fortification created a cemetery under Place Royale. When the museum excavated the site, the discovery resulted in this exhibit.
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Where Montral Was Born This exhibition represents more than 600 years of local history, from Amerindian times to the present day. Underground Vaulted Conduit Montrals earliest plumbing and sewer system, dating from the 18th century, can be seen in this network of conduits, beneath a cobblestoned walkway. Another excavation revealed the tiny St Pierre River, now permanently below ground. Models At Your Feet Virtual technology bridges past with present here. Meet historic figures, hear archeological explanations and view five centuries of artifacts under glass beneath your feet.
Top tips
One of the best views in all of Vieux-Montral is available from Caf LArrivage on the top level of the museum. It serves good but expensive bistro cuisine.
A Customs House and its Architect Montrals old Customs House, built between 1836 and 1838, is a Neo-Classical building designed by John Ostell, a local architect. It has been carefully renovated to its original state by the museum.
Youville Pumping Station Interpretation Center Across from the museum an old pumping station has exhibits on science and technology.
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Market Day, 1750 This interactive virtual fresco is set in the archaelogical remains of the main gate that led to the marketplace in 1750. Visitors can bring to life various figures, who emerge from the stores and play out scenes from their lives.
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Top 10 Paintings
Portrait of a Young Woman A combined use of light, color, texture and setting bring a feeling of intimacy to this 1665 Rembrandt work.
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Apelles Painting the Portrait of Campaspe Italian artist Tiepolo uses the unusual technique of a painting-within-a-painting in this 1726 work. Notice the artwork hanging on the wall of the studio, which is one of Tiepolos own, entitled The Bronze Serpent . Octobre An example of James Tissots control and mastery of space, this 1877 allegorical work is of model Kathleen Irene Newton. It was painted in London after the demise of the Commune of Paris in 1871.
Judith with the Head of Holopherne, Didon Created as two paintings (1500), Andrea Mantegna here displays classic Renaissance elements: absence of emotion, knowledge of anatomy and determinism of line.
The Tribute Money Philippe de Champaignes 1655 work portrays the Biblical tale of the Pharisees in this dramatic religious painting. The figure on the right is said to be a self-portrait and borrows stylistically from Raphael and Valentin.
Portrait of the Lawyer Hugo Simons Otto Dixs artistic freedom is evident in this 1929 portrait of lawyer Hugo Simons. Seen with a halo of copper light, it illustrates the artists wish to portray his subjects souls in his works.
Top tips
The on-site Caf des Beaux-Arts serves delicious but expensive French bistro cuisine (see Le Caf des Beaux-Arts), but there is an inexpensive cafeteria in the same area of the Jean-Nol Desmarais Pavilion.
Venice, Looking out over the Lagoon A great voyeur of the human landscape, Morrice is known for his departure from centuries of art tradition and for his philosophy of painting for paintings sake, seen in this work.
The Wheel Montrals best-known contemporary painter, Jean-Paul Riopelle, lets his spatula work its magic on this canvas (19545), creating a mosaic of elements, colors and tones. Riopelles signature is his chaotic style and some affinity to the brushwork of Czanne.
Museum Guide
There are three pavilions that make up the museum; the Michal and Renata Hornstein Pavilion (Canadian and Inuit art collection), which contains the Liliane and David M. Stewart Pavilion featuring decorative arts. The Jean-Nol Desmarais Pavilion, across the street and connected via a tunnel from Level S2, features European art. Entrance to the museum complex is possible at either address.
The Black Star Paul-mile Borduas began as a church decorator before attending the cole des Beaux-Arts in Montral
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Top 10 Features
Outer Walls In 1820, under the British Lieutenant-Colonel Elias Walker Durnford, building of the outer walls of the polygon structure began. No one could access the Great Lakes or the Atlantic Ocean without coming under the watchful eye of La Citadelles forces.
Dalhousie Gate Named in honor of Castle Dalhousie in Scotland, this formal entrance provides general access to La Citadelle and is the point at which processions and parades enter the grounds.
Changing of the Guard One of the most entertaining military exercises involves precision marching with a musical escort. It is headed by Batisse the goat, the regiments mascot.
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Fortifications The fortress contains the most important elements for a military installation: height over the enemy; 360-degree visibility; difficult access; and durability. Having all of this to its advantage, La Citadelle has never once been attacked by an enemy. Barracks A large part of the site is given over to housing the troops. Tanks used in past battles by the regiment are also on display.
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Top tips
There are no refreshment facilities inside La Citadelle, but you are welcome to bring a picnic. The Changing of the Guard takes place daily at 10am from mid-June to September and lasts about 35 minutes.
Chapel Since army life requires servicemen to work far from home for long periods, every effort was made to include elements of everyday life at the fortification, including a chapel. Redoubt Tucked away into sections of the fieldstone walls, cannons protect their flanks without the need for backup support.
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Governor-Generals Residence Since Samuel de Champlains tenure in the 1600s the Governor-General has resided here during the summer. Firing of the Cannon The dramatic firing of the cannon takes place at the Citadelle every day at noon and at 9:30pm during the
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Top 10 Exhibitions
The Chapel of the Sminaire de Qubec Information about Catholic rites and church decoration can be found here.
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Encounter with First Nations A magnificent exhibition of First Nations treasures, with over 500 objects covering the history of the native Canadians. Muse de lAmrique Franaise The oldest museum in Canada features over 450,000 artifacts from the earliest French communities. Place-Royale, There and Back Again Two savvy time travelers, take you back to meet five influential figures from Place-Royale. A great multi-media presentation. Maison Chevalier Jean-Baptiste Chevaliers 17th-century home has been lovingly restored and includes the Living Heritage Workshop, a series of tutorials focusing on traditional French customs, music and dance since the days of early settlement. Centre dInterprtation de Place-Royale Daily life as it was in Nouvelle-France comes alive at Place-Royale; historic celebrations are regularly mounted on the site of the first settlement.
Top tips
Good food at a reasonable price is found at the on-site cafeteria near the coat-check area. Do not try to see everything the MCQ offers at their three locations in one day. For a more enjoyable experience, plan to attend only those parts that you are most interested in.
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Sminaire de Qubec Three outstanding exhibitions in the seminary form the largest religious collection in North America. The artifacts document the early religious education of the city. People of Qubec...Then and Now Visitors can relive 400 years of Qubecs history, meeting figures from yesterday and connecting to a past that is still shaping events of today. Original and archival film clips from the National Film Board enliven the exhibit along the way.
Separatism
Ever since the British made an offer in 1848 to allow the French to maintain their language within an English-speaking domain, the relationship between what would become the nation of Canada and the province of Qubec has been fraught with mistrust. As Canada and Qubec continually reached political deadlock, separatist sentiment grew. Many Qubcois feel that their province is distinct from the rest of Canada, and so would be better off as a separate nation. In 1980 and 1995, the province held referendums on whether to separate, and both times the vote was a narrow no.
Make Way for the Middle Ages Based around the workings of a medieval French village, this this costume workshop explores how aspects of life in the Middle Ages have influenced how we live in the modern age.
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Basilique Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupr
The oldest pilgrimage site in North America began life in 1658 as a shrine to this patron saint of Qubec and was established as a basilica in 1887. The present church, started in 1923 but only completed in 1963, has a striking interior with sumptuous decoration, including impressive window archways. Hundreds of crutches, canes and medical aids can be seen stacked in pyramids beside the medieval-style entrance, testimony to pilgrim prayer and the healing powers associated with Sainte Anne de Beaupr. Stunning religious statues frame the entrance and line the luxurious gardens, including a Way of the Cross. Atelier Par is two minutes from the shrine on avenue Royale and provides an opportunity to purchase unusual souvenirs.
Top 10 Features
Medieval Architecture A five-nave towered church blends imposing Gothic architecture with Romanesque details previously unseen in Qubec Province.
Memorial Chapel This votive chapel, built in 1878 to commemorate the original church on this site, contains religious memorabilia, rare documents and artifacts.
Stained-Glass Windows The dazzling 240 stained-glass windows depict moments in the life of Ste Anne. The centerpiece is a huge oval window flooding light into the nave.
St Augustin Thomas Baillairg continued his familys legacy as a religious decorator by carving pieces for the basilica, including a statue of St Augustin.
Candlelight Processions It is common to witness evening candlelight processions honoring saints and religious holidays; those on July 25 and 26 celebrate Ste Anne.
Scala Santa A wonderful little chapel constructed in 1891 includes a remarkable stairway venerating the one Jesus ascended to face condemnation by Pontius Pilate.
Way of the Cross Bronzes Life-size bronze statues line the hillside trail beside the basilica. Honouring saints and Apostles, these artworks infuse a Renaissance feeling to the grounds.
Muse de Sainte-Anne A separate building next to the main shrine features two floors of religious exhibitions focusing on Ste Anne and the 300 years of pilgrimage to this holy site.
Cyclorama de Jrusalem The worlds largest panoramic painting was created in Munich between 187882. It was shipped in
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sections in 1895 and still transfixes visitors with its overview of Jerusalem.
Basilique Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupr
Practical information
10018 ave Royale, Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupr Map P3 (418) 827 3781 [Link] Open daily Free Muse de Sainte- Anne Open JulAug: daily Adm
Top tips
Restaurant Lain is located two minutes from the basilica and serves delicious home-cooked meals at affordable prices. Call ahead for information regarding any special celebrations or festivities, since the crowds can be an impediment to enjoying the site.
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Ile dOrlans
A haven of greenery and tranquility, Ile dOrlans was one of the first European settlements in the New World and is referred to as the cradle of French civilization in North America. Ever since Jacques Cartier arrived here in 1535, the six parishes along this 30-km (18-mile) island have maintained many of the French traditions of the first settlers, and over 600 heritage buildings present a preserved architectural gem. The fertile soil means that the islands produce has become known as the areas open-air market.
Top 10 Sights
Ile de Bacchus When Jacques Cartier found vines here he named it Ile de Bacchus after the Greek god of wine, then changed the name to honor the Duke of Orlans.
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Horatio Walker Studio The Canadian landscape artist Horatio Walker was a resident of the island, and his studio is preserved in Ste-Ptronille on the street renamed in his honor. His legacy continues in the work of other island painters such as Horace Champagne.
Montmorency Falls Higher than Niagara Falls, Montmorency Falls are a dramatic sight before you cross the bridge onto the island (see Parc de la Chute-Montmorency). Interpretation Center The Centre dInterprtation rents out their $10 tape or CD guide which you can play in your car stereo as you tour the island for a background history of the various parishes. Auberge la Goeliche In the lovely community of Ste-Ptronille the Auberge la Goeliche offers guests old-world hospitality, food and ambiance.
Domain Steinbach Domain Steinbach, located in St-Pierre, welcomes visitors for organic wine and cider tastings, and also makes vinegars and mustards.
Ile dOrlans
Chocolaterie de lIle dOrlans Ste-Ptronille is home to the most wonderful chocolate-maker in the province, which also sells delicious homemade ice cream, jellies and other edible goodies. It also houses an interesting interpretation center that explains the process of creating chocolate.
La Forge--Pique-Assaut The forge offers a fascinating opportunity to look inside a blacksmiths workshop. Artisan Guy Bel labors here, admirably maintaining traditional metalworking
techniques. Manoir Mauvide-Genest This 1734 manor is one of the oldest buildings in the province and a fine example of rural architecture from the 18th century. Theres an on-site museum and a
Le Vignoble Ste-Ptronille With an incredible view across the St Lawrence River to Montmorency Falls, this 50-acre vineyard is an excellent example of a quality, cold-weather grape vintner creating red, white and ros wines, popular in the restaurants of Qubec City.
restaurant.
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Ile dOrlans
Practical information
Dufferin-Montmorency highway 440 Map P3 Bureau dinformation touristique: 490 cte du Pont, St-Pierre-delIle-dOrlans (418) 828 9411 [Link]
Top tips
Auberge Restaurant Le Canard Hupp in the village of St-Laurent (2198 chemin Royal 1-800-838-2292) will spoil you with fine cuisine. They also have B&B rooms if you want to stay overnight. There are also many other B&B accommodations across the island. The tranquility of this island makes it a perfect spot to rent a bicycle, follow the walking guide from the Interpretation Center or enjoy a picnic at one of the idyllic spots beside the river.
Flix Leclerc
No mention of Ile dOrlans would be complete without reference to the spirit of the province at large, as it was embodied in the artistry of Flix Leclerc (191488). The legacy of this prolific singer, song-writer, poet and playwright (see Flix Leclerc), and his ability to perfectly express the Qubecois sensibility is honored at LEspace Flix-Leclerc (682, chemin Royal, St-Pierre Open daily) where there is a permanent exhibition about his work, as well as a coffee house with live entertainment and a gift shop.
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Les Laurentides
Les Laurentides (the Laurentians) are part of a shield of forested peaks enclosed by the Ottawa, St Lawrence and Saguenay rivers, and are best known for their magnificent ski slopes, which roll into sight one hour north of Montral. First Nations relics indicate Amerindian settlements here over 4,000 years ago, and since the 19th century the region has been a rich agricultural zone and famous for hunting, trapping and fishing in its 6,000 lakes and ponds. Visitors can enjoy the historic Francophone villages, cycle and hike on numerous trails in summer, or sample the luxury of modern ski resorts in winter.
Top 10 Sights
St-Sauveurdes-Monts Downhill skiing is the draw here in winter, but in summer the artisans shops, restaurants and galleries tempt visitors to town.
National du Mont-Tremblant 10 Parclargest of an awe-inspiring inventory of The provincial parks, it provides a safe haven for black bears, white-tailed deer, moose, wolves, and raccoons, and over 200 species of birds. Outdoor activities include hiking, canoeing, fishing, and cross-country skiing.
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Mont-Rolland The historic homes in this laid-back village were built to house workers of the Rolland Mill, once the main employer of this forested domain. Ste-Adle Spectacular outdoor recreation within easy reach of Montral attracted the first tourist train to Ste-Adle in 1891, and the town continues to welcome ski enthusiasts today. Ville dEstrel This lush, rolling area includes Ste-Marguerite-du-Lac-Masson, the village where renowned artist Jean-Paul Riopelle painted for many years. The area was originally developed by a Belgian aristocrat in the 1930s.
Les Laurentides
Practical information
Map N5 Maison de Tourisme de Laurentides:14142, rue de la Chapelle, Mirabel (450) 436 8532 [Link]
Top tips
LEureye is a Belgian restaurant in Ste-Adle, one minute east off the Laurentian Autoroute No. 15 and worth the side-trip (see Restaurant LEuyre). Reasonably priced and comfortable log cabins are available on a first-come-first-served basis inside the Parc national de Mont-Tremblant (1-877 688 2289).
Val-Morin Along the Ptit Train du Nord cycle path, this tiny Francophone village beguiles visitors as the trail meanders around Lac Raymond. Skiers can enjoy slopes at Belle Neige.
Val-David An enthralling town peppered with art galleries, music and poetry festivals, and mountain-biking contests.
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Ste-Agathedes-Monts With its fishing, swimming and skiing, this became the first resort in les Laurentides over 100 years ago. St-Jovite The gateway to the Mont-Tremblant commercial district, the village of St-Jovite offers visitors boutiques and traditional Qubecois restaurants. Visit the palatial Monastre des Aptres de lAmour Infini just east of town. Mont Tremblant This is the highest peak in les Laurentides at over 900 m (2,950 ft) and one of the most popular ski resorts in North America. Spas, shops, excellent dining and live entertainment all add to the appeal.
Jackrabbit Johannsen
Born in Norway in 1875, Herman Jackrabbit Johannsen settled in the Montral area with his wife and children in 1928. First Nations residents apparently gave him his nickname after watching him moving mysteriously and swiftly across the snow. This remarkable man, who lived an active outdoor life until the age of 111, put the Laurentian Mountains on the global ski map and brought cross-country skiing to Canada.
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Where to stay
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Where to eat
La Gaudriole
The best gourmet value in town. Try duck foie gras with cranberry compote.
Auberge Hatley
One of the most celebrated French kitchens in the country on the banks of Lac Massawippi. The owners grow their own vegetables and boast an extensive wine cellar.
La Maison dlise
Trout abound in this region and here you can enjoy it cooked to perfection, along with local venison, quail, duck or pheasant.
LOeuf
A gourmet restaurant, chocolaterie and auberge specializing in creative dishes, ending with handmade chocolate.
[Link]
23
4
Where to drink
Caf Rico
Stphane Tamar Kordahi opened Caf Rico as a politically conscious place serving fair-trade coffee. It has succeeded in creating a relaxed, musical ambiance with the constant aroma of roasting beans.
Artmise et Aubpine
A magical grocer-cumeatery-cum-medicinal herbalist, this fascinating emporium provides organic fish, chicken and pork dishes as well as fruits, vegetables and herbs to an increasingly expanding clientele. Take-out meals available.
An eclectic mix of students, artists and conversationalists frequents this convivial bar. Great beer selection.
Elses Bar
This is a favored neighborhood bar for musicians, artists and Bohemian types, and it is a relatively quiet perch in the middle of a bustling quarter. Elses Bar serves simple food too.
Vol de Nuit
This stalwart watering hole has the best terrace bar in the city for people-watching the crowds on the pedestrian walkway present an endless stream of characters.
[Link]
25
5
Itineraries
(987 rue Morin), open all year. Then enjoy a traditional Qubcois dinner at Restaurant Le Petit Poucet (see Rotisserie au Petit Poucet).
[Link]
27
Auberge du Pierre-Calvet . Take a peek inside at the sumptuous period surroundings. End your walk by strolling through March Bonsecours with its designer boutiques, then continue along rue St-Paul and buy a take-out lunch at Resto Chez lEpicier to enjoy on Place Jacques-Cartier (see Place Jacques-Cartier & Place de la Dauversire) while people-watching.
[Link]
28
6
Practical Information
Planning Your Trip To Go 1 Whensummer and fall are the best times to visit Early
Qubec, when the climate is more temperate. However, if you are interested in the variety of winter sports on offer in the province plan your visit in October to November or January to March. Peak Seasons Christmas can be magical in both cities, but as a result they are crowded with tourists who come to celebrate amid the fairylights and the snow. June and July are the main months for the regions renowned festivals (see Festivals and Events), so these months are also frenetic, but fun. Qubec City draws the crowds to its Carnaval each February (see Carnaval de Qubec Attractions).
Electricity The whole of North America operates on a 110-volt, 60-cycle electrical system, with two or three-pronged plugs. Equipment manufactured in other countries will need an adaptor.
Getting Around Montral & Qubec City Mtro 1 Montralway around Montral is by Mtro, which The best
operates from 5:30am until 1am. Qubec City has no Mtro.
What to Pack The term weather extremes might have been invented in Qubec, where residents and visitors alike comment on variations from hour to hour. Temperatures range from 40 C (105 F) in summer to -40 C (-40 F) during winter ice storms. Packing rain gear is de rigueur and wearing layers of clothes that can be taken on or off is the most sensible option at any time of year.
[Link]
By Bus Montrals bus/Mtro system acts as a single network seven days a week. A single fare allows access to the entire system. Buses also run efficiently in Qubec City.
Passports & Visas American citizens need only photo ID to enter Canada, but all other visitors must have a valid passport that extends beyond the length of the trip. You may stay in the country for up to six months, providing your passport covers this period. US and EU citizens need no visa to enter Canada, but other nationalities should check at the Canadian Embassy or Consulate in their home country for up-to-date regulations.
Travel Insurance Health care is expensive in North America so it is essential to take out travel insurance prior to departure to avoid paying high fees should you fall ill during your trip. Make sure the insurance also covers travel cancellations as well as loss of valuables should you be the victim of theft.
Airlines More than 50 airlines serve Montral and Qubec City, but the scheduled airline with the most international flights is Air Canada. The charter company Air Transat offers cheaper options (see By Air to Montral, By Air to Qubec City).
By Car The Province of Qubec has a reputation of being a combination of fast drivers, one-way streets, complicated parking signs, short-lived meters and over-priced parking lots. Overnight indoor parking or taking taxis are both worth the investment while staying in either city.
Customs You are forbidden to bring certain food products, such as fruit, into Canada from abroad and sniffer dogs may operate at airports to check your luggage. Visitors over the age of 18 may import 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, one liter of spirits and 1.5 liters of wine.
On Foot Both cities are walker-friendly, providing many wonderful streets to wander along and places to stop for a break. There are clearly marked walking trails but they share space with cyclists and sometimes in-line skaters, so be careful, but courteous.
Time Zones Qubec is 5 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) the same time zone as New York City. When it is midday in Montral, it will be 5pm in London, 9am in Los Angeles and 3am in Sydney.
Cycling Cyclists abound throughout Qubec on the city streets, bike paths and in the parks. With over 350 km (215 miles) of paths around Montral too, there is no shortage of surface. a Roule is a rental and repair shop.
[Link]
30
7 8
Calche Rides In Montral, calche rides (horse-drawn carriages) are available at Place dArmes, Place Jacques-Cartier, at the foot of boulevard St-Laurent or by calling Lucky Luc. In Qubec City, call Calches du Vieux-Qubec or hail one on any of the old town streets. Its a romantic, if expensive, way to get around. Rates are the same in the two cities, roughly $60.00 per hour, but each driver negotiates separately.
Lucky Luc: (514) 934 6105 Calches du Vieux-Qubec: (418) 683 9222
By Boat For the best view of Vieux-Montral, hire a boat the Vieux-Port has all the relevant information. Other beautiful areas to anchor include Marina de la Ronde and Lachines Pleasure Craft Harbour and Visitors Marina.
Pharmacies A 24-hour pharmacy in Montral is located at 5122 chemin de la Ctesdes-Neiges. PharmaPrix is a more central pharmacy, open until midnight, at 901 rue
10 Transport for the Disabled access to their Both cities have partial disabled
public transportation. Montral International Airport is equipped with disabled service personnel and equipment; transport from Qubec City airport can be arranged by calling Roy & Morin. STCUM, Montrals transportation authority, also provides special vans for wheel-chair passengers.
Roy & Morin: (418) 622 6566 STCUM: (514) 280 5341 [Link]
2 3
[Link]
31
You can purchase alternative health supplies at Carrefour Sant in Montral or the Chantal Lacroix Clinic in Qubec City.
Carrefour Sant: 767 rue Rachel Est (514) 524 7222 Chantal Lacroix Clinic: (418) 658 2004
Requirements 10 Seasonalvisiting in winter must wrap up warm Travelers against the deep chill. In summer, bring plenty of suncream.
[Link]
32
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