Salgado de Oliveira University - UNIVERSE

Goiânia Campus
FASHION DESIGN COURSE

THE CREATION OF WOMEN'S CLOTHING

ALMINDA ALVES CARDOSO

SUMMARY
This project presents a logical structure for the development of a project
from a collection of clothing articles, with an emphasis on women's clothing, area
increasing percentage of industries in Brazil. Reports on the importance of research and
of planning for the clothing industries, aiming to identify the points
important aspects of research and planning, to previously define the stages of
creation and development of a fashion product. The garments emerged from the
the need to cover the body dates back to primitive times, becoming a
cultural and later social issue, today fashion is considered a reflection of
evolution of behavior, ceasing to be acquired as a necessity and becoming
becoming an object of desire and luxury among women, the main consumers of
clothing articles. To achieve good results for a fashion collection, it is important
conduct a detailed study of the area of product marketing, as well as the
characteristics of the desired audience, this analysis contributes to a good
approach between objectives and results. The production process when followed
Good planning, updated materials and technological resources ensure the
a good work performance, as well as the success of an industry.

Palavras-chaves: Vestuário, Pesquisa, Coleção, Planejamento, Desenvolvimento.

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INTRODUCTION

Fashion is a concept that was established from the need for

man of covering and protection of the body against natural factors, becoming
later a reason for differentiation of social classes, and subsequently a factor
responsible for the reflections of society, as culture and behavior.
The project in question addresses the contribution of research and of

planning in the creation of women's clothing, in the quest to identify the points
important for defining the stages of product creation and development
fashion.
The nature of fashion as a concept began its documentation in
starting from the tailor Charles Frederick Worth, pioneer of fashion shows and creation
of fashion products, as well as presenting their collections, until then there only existed

custom clothing for the customer.

The studies for the application of breeding methods are quite
diversified in clothing products, in the development process needs
all stages and developments of the processes are reported, from research to
date of sale.

DEVELOPMENT

5.1 Fashion

The etymological root of the word fashion introduced in the Italian language around
1950 is derived from Latin, which means use, custom, habit, tradition.
good manners, morality and still law, type, rule (COBRA, 2007, p.10).
 3

Many historians, sociologists, philosophers, journalists, and even the

Society has already attempted to explain the dressing habits of their respective societies,
giving some definitions about the topic. It is a system that integrates a context
political, social, sociological or simply the day-to-day life of people. "Already the word
, commonly used in the international context, is derived from the Latin facere, which
means to do, to build." (AMON, 2007, p. 07).

Integrated into a social context, it becomes evident that, although fashion...

characterizes an individual expression, facing a system of social rules,
able to identify lifestyle, social position, ethnicities, and religions of each one.

Since prehistory, man has been creating his fashion, not just as a
a form of protecting the body, but also as a reflection of social aspects,
religious, aesthetic, and cultural, an example of this are the priests who wore
animal skins to cover the body in religious rituals. Once the figures of
animals were associated with the gods. Even in the early civilizations, that
they differentiated the garments, instead of tanned hides it was the turn of natural fibers
we will cover the body.

Fashion can be considered a reflection of the evolution of behavior. A

a kind of portrait of the community. It is a non-verbal language with
meaning of differentiation that stimulates new ways of thinking and acting
(MORAES, 2008, p.2).

In the past, the concept of fashion was attributed only to clothing,

mainly from the more specific areas of the clothing segment: haute couture and
but more recently ready-to-wear. (COBRA, 2007, p. 11). In recent decades
the concept of fashion has spread to other segments, such as accessories,
cosmetics, household items, appliances, vehicles, music and even
pets.
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From this migration of the concept of fashion to other segments of

consumption, can explain the rapid changes in behavior, especially in the
last three decades. The concept of lifestyle is based on the intersection of
individual and behavioral characteristics of individuals with the reality of life
of each one.

In this sense, fashion is not linked only to a specific object, but

is, first of all, "a social device, characterized by a
particularly brief temporality, due to more or less twists
fantastical, which can therefore affect very diverse spheres of collective life.
(LIPOVETSKY, 2009, p. 25).

The values of a society, the habits and customs are viewed by

fashion as a sociocultural phenomenon. Since early on, man has made use of the
clothing to differentiate or identify an individual's position in society. With the
Commercial Revolution, merchants acquired titles of nobility, in the pursuit of each
more for the better social position, and for this, there were also changes in the way
to dress.

With the growth of the nobility and successful merchants, the growth increased.
also the need for changes in your clothes for better perception of
your wealth. They were creating the details of their pieces. The political influences of
nations dictated the styles of the time, causing the clothing to refer to the
current events through the characteristics of their clothing, where
Europe was one of the most influential. With that, styles varied accordingly.
with the political events of the time, from these changes fashion was
characterized.
Fashion and clothing need to be suitable for lifestyle, types of jobs and
individual leisure activities.

It is believed that fashion is a social phenomenon that acts according to the

time, describing what is accepted, acquiring patterns and styles through
of the consumer market in its large mass, contributing to the
social differentiation. (TREPTOW, 2005, p. 24).
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With the evolution of clothing, today fashion involves dealing with elements
but more complex. Obtaining values such as self-esteem, aesthetics, innovations,
beauty standards. It respects multiplicity and becomes part of our daily lives,
It is made with thoughts, behaviors, values, and information.

The exchange of models also imposes an obsolescence on the product, the clothing.

tends to age, thus creating the need for a new piece. The
the need for the launch of new products on the part of the consumer, what happens
also in other areas of the industry, but in fashion it is more frequent because it is more
transitory, even exceeding the two annual launches, winter and
summer.

Integrated into a social context, fashion is a lifestyle, manifesting the

social class or the tribe to which the individual belongs. It marks the place of insertion.
of the individual in space and time, serving as an important source of information
two signs in historical research. Clothing, when crafted
according to fashion trends, it does not only meet the basic needs of
dressing up, she adds value to existence, fulfilling, moreover, the functions of
seduction and glamour. It is evident that, although fashion is characterized by a
individual expression, facing a system of social rules, capable of identifying,
social position, ethnicities, and religions of each.

According to Lipovetsky (2009), the first sign of fashion, in the mid-14th century,
it was the appearance of a new outfit, which clearly proposed the differentiation between
the sexes, being fair and long for women and fitted and short for men
men. Thus, it relates the emergence of the first brief fashion cycles to
final period of the Middle Ages. At that moment, fashion still did not know
true innovations and rather small modifications of details. The big
the novelty is the abandonment of the long and floating overcoat in the form of a jacket in

benefit from a short and fitted male outfit at the waist. Transformation that
establishes a very marked difference between male and female clothing and this
for all the evolution of future fashions up to the 20th century.
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Highlighting its changes in human life, fashion has its existence

marked in time, which generates small blocks of eternity, from the
renewal of its products, creating monuments that honor beauty.
Analyzing the clothing of the 50s or 70s, large
transformations for today's days. Another good example occurred during World War I
worldwide, when women assumed a new role in society (while the
men fought in the war, women worked in the war industries.

According to Aguiar (2003), fashion has become pluralized, which makes it easier and at the same time.

The weather makes it difficult to cover the body, due to the various possibilities of doing so:

There is no longer a single wearable truth, but rather the various that are

present, according to the target niche, hence the numerous possibilities of

to be in fashion, supported by countless opportunities to stay informed
through the media that became popular at the end of the century
XX and the beginning of the 21st century. (AGUIAR, 2003, p.13).

Fashion currently plays a role as a creator of images, creators of

simulacra, creator and facilitator of expressions of subjectivity. Considered the
freedom of expression par excellence, freedom with information and education.

The nature of fashion exists in a transitional state in search of the unusual, of

newness and innovation to subsequently achieve widespread use. Still

according to Aguiar (2003), fashion is not truly cyclical, but helical, since the
the factor of time does not let her return to the same place, but to a proximity to a

previous reference.

Being so transient, the clothing industry classifies fashion in cycles,

like: launch, acceptance, and wear. The launch of fashion occurs
with a style proposal, which may originate, for example, from a collection of
a designer. Collection launches can be carried out through fashion shows
in fashion.

The emergence of the first form of fashion show was around 1860,
in Paris, during the English Industrial Revolution, linked to a series of
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modifications in clothing production. The fashion shows serve as a way to

junction between human invention, institutional support, and the basic activity of dressing.
The consummate fashion lives on paradoxes: its unconsciousness favors consciousness;
your craziness of tolerance; your mimetism, the individualism; your frivolity, the
respect for human rights." (LIPOVETSKY, 2009, p. 19).

Considering it as secondary media, which encompasses everything that is placed

about the body: ornaments, body paintings, tattoos, - complements, the
fashion system. Secondary media amplifies the message of primary media, the
body, and at the same time subject to it. It is known that the fashion show
promotes the universalization of the body, distancing it from physical limits.

Among these segments, the corporeal image, the structure of the dressed body
is manipulated, highlighting the more attractive parts of it, selected according to
aesthetic values of that moment. In this concept, what matters is the concept of
brand, which triggers a field of relationships and social connections.
For a launch to be accepted, people who identify with the profile
for which it is directed, they start to see in the proposed style a new way of
express modernity. The suggested style, after becoming fashionable, will lose its
original concept, reaching its wear and needing to launch new ones
proposals.
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Figure: fashion show

(FLICKR, 2011, ONLINE)

Collection launch held through fashion shows, widely used

by major brands in Brazil and around the world. The parades contain an average of 60
look at each collection, being them winter and summer.

For a launch to be accepted, people who identify with the profile

for which it is directed begins to see in the proposed style a new way of
express modernity. The suggested style, after becoming fashionable, will lose its
original concept, reaching its wear and needing to launch new ones
proposals.

5.2 Collection

Many are the studies on the applications of methods for creating a product.
fashion and how the process of developing a fashion product takes place,
relating the stages and elaborations of the processes. One cannot speak of processes
creatives without first clarifying the creative perception of the fashion designer.

Ostrower's statements (1977) clarify the act of creating as understanding.

organization and clarification
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Creating is basically shaping. It's being able to give form to something new. In any way that...

be it the field of activity, it is about, in this 'new', new coherences, that

they are established for the human mind, phenomena related in a new way
and understood in new terms. The creative act encompasses, therefore
ability to understand; and this in turn, to relate, arrange,
configure, to mean. (OSTROWER, 1977, p.12).

The study of creativity has been the subject of research over the
human existence appears as a supplementary interest and that, by
consequence, raises a varied number of scientific and
your practice in general.

Upon reviewing numerous attempts to define creativity, it is verified that the

the existence of a variety of perspectives and aspects or facets of creativity, now
focusing on the creative person, sometimes their process, other times the type and quality of
product. Or even the quality of the environment that stimulates or constrains creativity.

Studies on creativity indicate that environmental elements also

they receive the focus of creativity studies, emphasizing the importance of family
and the school as essential environments in the appreciation and stimulation of

creativity. It will graduate in the exercise of itself, in a development

dynamic in which man, seeking to survive, acts by transforming the
Nature transforms itself, Ostrower (1977) also states.
Using creativity and extensive research, the designer develops a
fashion collection, including clothing and/or accessories that have a relationship
between themselves, through a visual harmony.

Even in the mid-19th century, there was no profession of fashion designer.

the artisans were the ones who made the clothes following the instructions of the
commissioner.

The concept of haute couture then emerged in the 1850s, in France,

created by an Englishman settled in Paris–Charles Frederick Worth. He dressed
all the prestigious Parisian society, including Eugenia de Montijo, wife
from Napoleon III. The financial ease coming with the Industrial Revolution
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even favored those who had no tradition or blue blood, and with the
invention and the use of the sewing machine, still in the period of Romanticism,
There was, in fact, a huge visual convergence between social groups.
(BRAGA, 2007, p. 63).

He was the tailor who opened the first fashion house in Paris. He is the
first to create models thinking about the clients I intended to sell to, because
Until then, clothes were made only by order. In the Maisons
where the first fashion collections were recorded, where the clients were
invited to watch the parades of the creations.

The women who participated in the models' fitting were also the ones who walked the runway.

with the outfits in fashion shows, with this artifice, the profession of model is created
mannequin.

Fashion Collection "is a set of products in harmony with the point of

aesthetic or commercial view, the manufacturing and delivery are scheduled for
certain times of the year” (RECH, 2002, p. 68). In a collection, there are
considering the brand concepts, the consumer profile, and the choice of theme.
For a collection to be coherent, a methodology is needed for the
the creation process Treptow (2005), the difference between a designer and a craftsman can
to be seen with the existence of a creative method.

5.2.1 Planning

The first phase of planning is marked by the collection and analysis of

information that will support the decisions that will be made during
of the process, in this situation requires a lot of communication among the members of the

team (TREPTOW, 2005, p.95).

In this meeting, it is necessary to define some issues to be addressed in the future.

developed, such as the number of pieces that will be in the collection, the distribution

of these pieces in the product mix such as the sales period, working capital
available for the process and billing potential.
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Planning is of fundamental importance in the development of a

collection, as it not only makes the work of the fashion designer more efficient but also assists

in the creative process. For the collection development process to be dynamic it is

important a lot of communication among team members throughout the company.

Following the market information and history of your products

interiors, the fashion company can detect the needs and desires of
consumers, aiming at opportunities that can be transformed into questions
of design.

During the period in which the analyses are made for planning
marketing and the technical, functional, and aesthetic goals of the product to be
to develop defines the size of the collection, which is the number of pieces that will be

worked on the collection. To better organize these proposals, the mix of

product, in this context it refers to the varieties of products offered by the company.
In the planning meeting, it is necessary to consider what mix the company already has.
It has and defines whether the mix will be maintained, reduced, or expanded.

According to Treptow (2005), Product Mix is the name given to the variety of
products offered by a company. For better organization of activities that
will be carried out in the development of the collection, it is important to develop a

schedule with the activities and dates for each phase of the process. The production and
The distribution of the collection depends on its quantity, complexity, and without a doubt

from the team that will develop it. Regardless of production deadlines and
Distribution, the designer must ensure that the collection is available to retail.
in the predetermined period.

According to Treptow (2005), the schedule is a way of organization,

very efficient in clothing companies:

The schedule can be used to track the progress of

activities. In this case, two lines are used for each activity: one
corresponding to the expected deadline for its execution and the other to mark
when the task was effectively executed. This technique is not very
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widespread, but quite useful for the development of collections, as

Schedules are hardly followed to the letter.
99).

The products of a fashion collection can be divided into categories

for better identification of its characteristics, this division is done by the Mix of
Styles or Fashion Mix. This Mix is composed of three segments:

1. Basics: Functional pieces, present in all collections, they make up

at least 10% of the collection must focus on this category;
2. Fashion: Models that follow fashion trends, including colors,
fabrics, finishes, shapes, and patterns. These models should be
sold during the collection period, as they will go out of fashion in the future. They

are responsible for about 70% of the products in each collection;

3. Vanguard: The pieces that complete the collection are the pieces that most
explore the concepts of the collection. These pieces are usually seen in fashion shows.

of fashion, catalogs, and showcases. (TREPTOW, 2005, p.101).

The planning and development of a fashion collection require a

methodology for the creation process, the fashion designer is the professional with
different skills among them the talent for combining shapes, colors, and textures and
the training to communicate through sketches, models, modeling and
pilotage. It is necessary to know the available technologies to develop from
products that can be absorbed by a certain audience.

2 Research

Research is essential to define the path to follow; it must be a

frequent and extensive activity. It requires discipline, techniques, and creativity at work
of research, requires careful attention and meticulous observation of everything that involves the

researcher. In the research, everything that is seen must be recorded, in addition to fairs, windows

In parades, a more creative look at observation is important, in this way it becomes

but richer the research, increasing the possibilities of original and better work
elaborate.
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The more diversified the sources of information are, the greater they will be.
supported your proposals. Research requires the creator's sensitivity to
to translate changes, feelings, and behavior, interpreting and adapting to
company concepts, both in technological aspects and available labor force,
as for the audience it reaches.

It is very common in research to retrieve references from the decades or

previous eras to update the customs of the target audience and better perceptions
futures.

Every fashion project research aims to gather information.

important for the development of innovative collections that are in
harmony with the market and consumer desires. However, the speed of the
changes in the fashion market and the dissemination of information about consumption,
they end up hindering the quality and the time of the research. There is no denying that
within the gears of fashion, there is a fast fashion process (products that
they reached a very fast sales peak, and consequently its duration in
market is of a short period of time) where only consumers from classes
dominants are able to absorb the amount of novelty imposed every six
months by the trends presented by major brands, reinforced by
massification of media information, by the celebrities who adopt it, and by the
social charge of the aesthetics of the new.

Since the 1980s, the phenomenon of reinterpretation has guided many collections.
in fashion, perhaps with the intention of reassessing what has already been done, or even
lack of sufficient innovations for radical changes. In an analysis of current fashion,
the appreciation of 'vintage' is very present, a unique specimen of clothing or accessories
from thrift stores, highly valued mainly by connoisseurs or professionals of the
fashion. Also having those who travel the world, seeking other cultures or
specific environments, bringing a thematic proposal of fantasy within the day-to-
day.
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Some have such a defined style that they promote small changes in their
products, which can be a new texture or a silhouette detail, but nothing
very significant to the point of altering your identity, these can be
included in this category and end up becoming "the new classics" of
fashion. (RIGUEIRAL, 2002, p.40).

[Link] Behavior Research

In the research of social signals and behaviors, they must be explored

concepts from other areas, trying to find convergences with the concepts of
fashion. Can you explain how the striking characteristics of the end of eras,
they provoke greater interest in society for mysticism and spirituality. The
behavioral trends can be used by fashion through the use of icons
related to spirituality, such as prints with images of saints, accessories
with crucifixes, they are great examples of this intervention.

For the development of collections, it is not enough to know only what

the market already consumes. Fashion is the dynamics of change, of the constant

renewal. The emergence of new trends is, ultimately, what

keeps the industry alive, since if it depended on the durability of
clothes, it would not be necessary for us to make new purchases every season
(TREPTOW, 2005, p.79).

The behavior research tracks consumer habits of

target audience and their current interests, such as places they usually frequent,
musical icons, cinema, television.
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Figure: Singer Madonna

(MODALOGIA, 2011 ONLINE)

The 1980s brought us a true profusion of influences and

contrasts, in which opposites began to live in harmony and both being
aspects of fashion. This multiplicity conveyed the idea that there was not a single
truth of fashion and, yes, several realities; diverse perspectives, countless paths to
will be traversed, creating a range of possibilities. The clothes mixed glamour,
concern for the body and informal appearance. The singer Madonna was a strong
influence on behavior and fashion of the decade.
According to Treptow (2005), the new trends that are emerging in their
latest readings, is what keeps the fashion industry alive, since the
the durability of clothes lasts much longer than annual seasons.

The designer who knows their brand well should also know who
they are the current idols of your target audience, this is the brand and consumer relationship,

store, for example, must contain characteristics that please the public (music, smell
decorations) and create a desire to purchase.

People tend to be influenced by the opinion of leaders who are

their counterparts. Social groups have their fashion leaders, who end up
dictating trends. Therefore, fashion implies the imposition of the group and depends
 16

of special feeling for collective acceptance. It is important to know the customers.

and your preferences in order to adopt effective actions to attract them, ensuring
always your satisfaction and loyalty.

[Link] Trend Research

When thinking about the future, the imagination is triggered. Cultivated images.
through movies or fiction books are giving shapes and formulas. Some of these
Movies have presented interesting and diverse projections of the future.
(RIGUEIRAL, 2002, p.40).

The trend is generally set by the 'big name' catwalks at

fashion world, as well as by other resources such as videos, photographs,
magazines, travel notes, among others. The trends and colors of fashion are
mass-produced in the form of summer, winter, or mid-season collections that arrive at the

stores.

The trends panel is a compilation of information grouped from

in a pleasant way and easy visual perception, to assist the designer in identifying
trends for the season. It is through this panel that the designer identifies the
style elements to be used in your collection.

It is important for a creative designer to deepen their knowledge.

about trends and consumption, to understand which aspects are being
addressed by the market, and position itself, filter out the excess of information
existing and betting on what you believe to be the ideal construction of the aesthetic universe
that wishes to be consumed by its audience.

The trends professional must incorporate concepts and positions.

methodological approaches that will give another dimension to your practice, such as filtering methods,

interpretation, construction of narratives and production of meanings. (CALDAS,

2006, p. 94.
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As Miranda (2008) states, the phenomenon of fashion requires constant

social changes, then alternating the consumption processes. "Fashion
essencialmente envolve mudança, definida pela sucessão de tendências e manias
"in a short period of time, it is a process of planned obsolescence" (p.17).

To better understand fashion, it is important to understand that the

the majority of society identifies, first and foremost, as a field reserved for
costumes and ornaments, but it is not limited to clothing. It involves architecture,
automotive industry, interior decoration, renowned names,
business management, among others, that are affected by the processes of
fashion.

The consumption of symbols is seen as a way to mediate self-concept and

consumption behavior. The symbol drives the buying attitude for a
product or another, according to their meanings expressed in society, in which the
the individual interacts and how he defines himself, or how he wishes to be perceived by her. The

the basic idea is that symbolic attributes are dependent on the social context and that
the cultural value corresponds to an individual need.

When conducting a trend research, the researcher can use several

materials, such as videos, photographs, magazines, travel notes, and everything that
come serve as creative proposals.

Some publications like behavior and design magazines anticipate

you direct paths, containing details that are the translation of the vanguard,
these materials express through layout, photos, focus, of
cores, a careful concern.

According to Treptow (2005), the trends panel is a compilation of

information grouped in a pleasant way and easy to perceive visually, for
assist the designer in identifying trends for the season.

For trend analysis, data collection is important.

Systematically, it is important to create files and divide them by colors, modeling, details,
 18

stamps and raw material. From this file, subdivisions can be made within
of each main topic.

Through the details, the piece draws attention to certain points,

not necessarily the whole. These details are so important that they can even be
embodied the theme of the collection, and represented through them.

The raw material for some brands can even have in-house production.
facilitating the representation of the theme in a more original and exclusive way,
being able to use the print, which in turn serves as a guide for a
line, style, color harmony.
It is important to emphasize that this selection is made considering the profile of
consumer and the brand concepts. By combining with creativity, it is possible to adapt the
trends respecting these characteristics.

This 'grouping' by topics is a way to facilitate visualization and, to

At the same time, check the information that is most repeated among the brands. This
"repetition" tends to be what is called "trend"; these are the strengths, the
inspirations that most designers observed at this moment. In fact, the
the intention of each creator is precisely to propose a more innovative path than the

However, the editors try and manage to group these languages.

(RIGUEIRAL, 2002, p.46).

[Link] Market Research

When evaluating different market segments, it is essential for the company to examine
two macrofactors: the global attractiveness of the segment and the goals and resources of
This last aspect is systematically neglected by companies.
(RIGUEIRAL, 2002, p. 151).
 19

In the market research, the competition analysis is carried out, both in

products like in other consumer products, as knowing the taste of
clients from other areas will easily recognize the choice of products from
fashion.

It is important to know who the market competitors are and to be aware of them.
strategies used by them to retain their customers.

When conducted correctly, market research provides

consistent information, making the decision-making process richer and more accurate.
Attitudes such as visiting the competition, checking their strengths and weaknesses, listening to them

complaints, compliments from your customers are important sources of information that
Often overlooked by fashion professionals.

Market research should be conducted to analyze the validity of a

hypothesis or answer important questions that had not been answered before. The
fashion brands to consolidate in the market must offer benefits that
competition does not offer or something of higher quality, aesthetics or price
differentiated.

[Link] Technology Research

When information moves at an electric speed, the world of

trends and rumors become the real world. The ease of information
allows the traction of different forms, personal, social relationships and
work. (KERCKHOVE, 1997, p. 179).
 20

The rapid emergence of technological devices had a great influence

on the behavior of companies in the fashion industry. New resources have been
appearing and increasingly the market has been adhering to these innovations.

So that the designer is always informed of these changes in

technology, it is necessary to conduct research, both in the same segment and in others
consumer segments, as knowing your customer's taste in other areas,
Your choice in fashion products will easily be recognized. For Treptow
(2005) market research must keep up with new techniques and machinery
released, seeking improvement for the clothing industry.

In this research, it is important to establish contact with suppliers.

participation in fashion fairs and events, keeping up with the latest
launches of what is offered by the technological market.

Not always is receiving visits from suppliers and sales representatives a

the most efficient way to learn about new technologies is to visit the stores,
where the products are located, it is possible to see the display, with all the
benefits and/or disadvantages of these products.

Currently, technology is one of the forces that most affect daily life.
people. The emergence of a resource is the replacement of the previous resource. Immense
investments are being made in software, internet social networks.

The ease of use and the speed of information on the internet allows
that users manage their behavioral relationships differently,
personal, social, learning, and work. The interactive environments
provide new situations that transform the possibilities of participation,
interference and expression of consumers. The consumer/company relationship has passed
to be also through these environments, allowing its search and even
compra, de presença e ação a distancia.
 21

In industry, computer science, associated with the emergence of new materials

primas and processes, is the most visible phase of the available technological innovations.

The implementation of CAD's (computer-aided designer) makes the process faster.

processes of creation and illustration of the collection; facilitate the drawing, fitting,

graduation and printing of the moldings and the creation of prints. While the
computerized machine allows for cutting molds with different shapes,
for exclusive models, the more compact fittings ensure savings,
producing with greater agility and ensuring an unparalleled increase in
number of pieces cut/hour.

Figure: Bad
Automated Cutting Machine
THIS IS VIP, 2011, ONLINE

Raw materials such as fabrics, trims, and accessories in addition to adding

value to the products, keeps the manufactured products updated, adding
differentiation of the collections.
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Figure: Catalytic Clothing

(ISTOEVIP, 2011, ONLINE)

The piece with technological fabric reacts with airborne particles,

transforming them into harmless substances. They contain catalysts that break down.

the pollutant molecules. The clothing can be "replenished" at the time of washing.
It has the function of purifying the air while the person strolls through the city.

[Link] Research on Regional Vocations

The research consists of collecting data and characteristics of vocations.

professionals, production capacity and obtaining specific raw material. With
the increase in competition after the opening of markets and globalization, the
the fashion industry has used the knowledge acquired through these
researches as elements of differentiation. The research of regional vocations provides
subsidies to the designer for the development of products with application of
ethnic, cultural, and artisanal elements as a way of adding value
differentiated.
 23

Photo: Collection of Ronaldo Fraga

(MANNEQUIN, 2011, ONLINE)

The work with the embroiderers of Passira (PE), and with the lace makers of
Monteiro (PA) produced delicate pieces, with the mission of recovering the translation of

office. Thus, the pieces are filled with stitches, shadow stitches, screens,
murderers and lace Renaissance.

[Link] Collection Theme Research

The theme consists of the concept, style, elements, and images collected through
from trend research, with elements that can be used and added
to fashion products, establishing shapes, colors, images, and convergence of
data, where the designer expresses the concept of their collection. The choice of theme is

free, but it is important to base it on research with styling offices, that

they point out behavioral trends and areas of interest of consumers.

Among other examples of themes, we can have historical, musical themes,

of ethnicities, literary, personalities, nature, technology among others. The designer
in fashion when using the elements of trends for the creation of the theme, this is a
confirm through the products, the market forecasts.
 24

In addition to the specific research for each stage of the collection, other sources

research is essential for the success of the work.

The decoding of fashion and what will or will not be a trend goes through

necessarily by the major magazines, in the form of fashion editors, who

synthesize the parades, grouping them by colors, shapes, and themes, resulting in
editorials that will guide the final consumer.

The magazine is a great means of disseminating fashion, especially in

editions of March and September, where the launches of new ones are marked
collections.

A very effective method of getting an overview of what is happening and

you can get a good view of the collections of renowned designers, so that you
discover the trends and the most used elements.

Another fundamental topic for updates in research is the internet, a

an agile way capable of conducting future research in an organized manner. A tip
It is important to observe the signs with which you identify your target audience.

There are other interesting sources that make it easier to define the target audience,
to the point of identifying even your musical tastes. With this defined profile, you can
enter a specific world of languages and images that become a source
inexhaustible to produce collections, catalogs, fashion shows, etc.

5.2.3 Creation
 25

The street, dangerously creative, is one of the main fashion trends.

currently, it began to be explored from an observation of societies and
world around us.

In this part of the work, all the material up to this point is collected.
grouped, to then start developing the collection. All the data that
were studied contributes to the visualization of style elements that
will highlight.

The influences observed and analyzed by trend researchers

function as a kind of mirror of modernity, being thus expressions of
spirit of the time announcing later traces.

Researching trends is like studying the future, in order to minimize

the risks regarding the unknown time, which is not new in our
society. It is worth noting that despite the prospecting of emerging signals
they generally point to defined directions, nothing can assure that such
directions will be achieved. The idea of uncertainty regarding such perceptions
exemplifies very well the insecurities and uncertainties with which the creation market faces

and the trend researcher deals with in their daily life.

[Link] Collection Briefing

The briefing consists of information to instruct the fashion professional in the

development of the collection. In the briefing, the target audience and estimate are defined.
prices, expected sales volume and environmental conditions.

Estebriefing functions as a tool used to communicate

visually the inspirations adopted during the development of the collection for
the entire company. From this, the stylist has enough content to start
to the process of developing the collection itself; producing, first of all, the
sketches and, subsequently, the fashion and technical drawings of the constituent pieces
from the collection.
 26

The decomposition of the briefing aims to interpret fashion trends and

market, generating strong inspiration for the creative team. In the language of
fashion professionals, represent the atmosphere of the collection, its spirit.

5.3 Fashion product

The consumer is influenced by various factors that make them choose to

one product or another. In pre-industrial societies, people needed
subject to a limited supply of products. Currently, the production of
bens is much greater than the market's ability to observe these
well, especially in relation to the purchasing power of the consumer (TREPTOW,

2005, p. 55.

Traveling through the consumer market, one can see numerous manufacturers,
offering similar products, these sales representatives struggle to
achieve a prominent position for your products.

5.3.1 Modeling

Modeling has the gift of modernizing, of bringing lightness and beautifying the

creation. Coming off the paper and becoming three-dimensional is the step towards

concretization of the desired objective. The proportions must be studied

 27

so that the chosen detail is truly valued and the rest of the
work serves as support for this detail. (RIGUEIRAL, 2002, p.104).

In the materialization of a fashion product project, through the definition

of fabrics, trimmings, and piloting, the concrete aspects are decisive for
the definition of the type of product. All these activities depend on each other
for the establishment of a fashion product collection.

For Treptow (2005), modeling is for the fashion designer, just as

engineering is for architecture” (page 154). In a fashion collection, it is developed the

modeling, (whose measurements fit the company's standard), the piloting

(prototypes) and cutting, these are like the main production processes in a
manufacturing.

Modeling, according to Araújo (1996), consists of the "art of crafting

molds from a pre-established model. It is up to the model maker for their
imagination and observation skills, being able to adapt, transform and create
molds, within what is most important: the base of the body. The modeling has
as a goal, to adapt the collection to production, through the development of
molds, based on designing model, from a database of basic molds,
normalized components and families or blocks of molds that represent the body
human and its respective needs to cover it.

The modeling process occurs in two ways: 'moulage' and the

Industrial flat modeling. The "moulage" is the characteristic method of haute couture.
but has been used in the development of parts for industrial manufacturing,
by using fitting mannequins made to standardized measurements.

The industrial modeling is the technique used in the construction of clothing,

being developed in a bi or three-dimensional way in any number of parts
necessary. To do this, the model maker interprets all the shapes of the body,
through anthropometric measures. For the development of modeling of
The main references that should be considered are the drawings.
 28

designed by the designers and mainly the anthropometric dimensions of

user, the body (MEDEIROS, 2007, p. 72).

In the flat modeling process, the patterns are traced on paper.

based on a table of geometric measurements and calculations. In the measurements table, it is

represented as the measurements of the bust, waist, and hips

other measures, using the measuring tape close to the body.

The development of industrial flat modeling includes the stages

described below:

. Stage Activity

1 Analysis of the measurement table that will be used in the execution of the

models, according to the company's target audience;

6 Detailed outline of the base body diagram (using the

measurement table) that will serve as guidance for the execution of the
models created by designers. The base mold facilitates and speeds up the
the work of the model maker, as it will always start from already tested bases and

approved to model new pieces;

3 Interpretation and development of the models created by the fashion designer.

In this phase, the model maker interprets the model from the base.
to be developed, based on analyses elaborated in the technical drawing of
product that is in the technical sheet;

Preparation of modeling for the cutting of pilot pieces;

Analysis and approval of the pilot piece;

 29

Correction of molds and execution of new ones if necessary;

Preparation of the final modeling with the necessary indications for the

series production;

8 Graduation of the molds - making the necessary enlargements and reductions

two molds approved according to the standard measurement table.

Plane modeling can also be developed through systems.

CAD/CAM. Some programs allow, in addition to the manipulation of ready-made molds
inserted in the system, the interpretation of molds on the screen, through measurements or

by the movement of points in the system. The system can operate in two ways:
with the construction of molds by altering archived bases in the system or by
change of molds produced outside the system. These molds are inserted into
system through the 'scanner' for modeling or digitizing tablet.

5.3.2 Piloting

The pilot piece or prototype is made by a versatile tailor.

called piloting, capable of discussing with the designer and the model maker the

difficulties encountered in sewing the piece and suggesting changes to make it

of easier production. (TREPTOW, 2007, p. 158).

The designer, the model maker, and the pilot need to always be in sync to
that a good job is done. In the execution of the piloting, it is necessary
point out the modeling defects that may affect the execution of
model, and alerting to the behavior of the fabric on the sewing machine. These
prototypes should be fitted on a model with measurements that correspond to
 30

desired table, to evaluate the fit and comfort of the piece, as well as
finishing issues.

Prototypes that are not approved must be discarded, but

they must remain in the company's possession, if they wish to reuse it, it should be
dispose. In the approval of pilot pieces, the presence of the designer is required,
model maker, pilot, sales managers, and the owner of the company for
they reach a consensus on the final decision before the product is manufactured.

Cards

Technical Sheet:
This sheet is the descriptive document of a collection piece. Its
Filling is generally a task for design assistants or interns.
but the supervision is by the designer themselves or the product engineering department.
The format of the forms may vary from one company to another, considering the fields.
fundamentals that must exist in all of them.

Modeling Sheet:
The piloting sheet is designed to guide the pilot in development.
of the pilot piece. It will include all details, both for the modeling
like for the pilots. It can be considered a draft of the technical sheet.

The design in the clothing product

The study of innovation has been the subject of research over the course of

human existence has become a supplementary and indispensable interest for all
segments, this characteristic to achieve a good result needs to be aggregated
self-care like

Fashion Designer's Role

 31

The creative process is closely linked to the creator's perception of

fashion, that there is to understand the act of creation as, understanding, organization and

clarification of your ideas.

For this field of activity, it is about new coherences that are
establish by the human mind, phenomena that relate in a way
new and new terms. Using creativity and extensive research, the designer
develop a fashion collection, including clothing and/or accessories that
alem de possuir uma relação entre si, através de uma harmonia visual, se agregado
the design in your products allows for product differentiation in
market, adding value and potential to a fashion brand.

METHODOLOGY

The project in question applied the descriptive positivist research method.

using bibliographic research and reading and summarizing references as a technique
for research. For data collection, observed and collected data were used.
during the internship period, as well as bibliographic references, what besides making it easier
the author's understanding of the topic contributed to confirming his studies
theoretical.

RESULTS
To complement the professional's repertoire, having an experience is important.
In the environment where it is studied, the practice of internships contributes to growth.

professional, both in work experience and to create a link between student and
market, as well as increasing your professional network that will serve as
great results in the profession of a fashion designer.
Understanding how a company works while being created
development of the parts, customer profile, is a way to reinforce the
research conducted through bibliographic research on such subjects. Thus
how the method of organizing materials, identify the coherence between model,
accessories and trimmings in each piece in an organized manner lend credibility to
 32

professional both to develop your work and to lead your team of

collaborators.

CONCLUSION
The study about the strategies used in the development of a
collection, brings more and more new discoveries about the creative process, the
planning is of fundamental importance in the launch of a collection, as
besides making the work of fashion designers more efficient, it assists in the process
creative, increasing your image references, enhancing your dynamism between
perceptions, configurations and meanings.

REFERENCES

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AGUIAR. Look. Personal Stylist: Guide for Fashion Consultants. 2nd edition. São
SENAC Publisher, 2003

[Link]. Intro.: COBRA, [Link] na Moda. São Paulo Senac

São Paulo: Cobra Publisher and Marketing, 2007

CALDAS, Dario. Observatory of Signs: theory and practice of research

trends. 2nd ed. Rio de Janeiro: Senac Rio Publishing, 2006.

COBRA, [Link] na Moda. São Paulo: Senac São Paulo: Cobra Editora
e Marketing, 2007.

EMBACHER, Airton. Fashion and identity: the construction of a personal style. São
Publisher Anhembi Morumbi, 1999.

FEGHALI, Marta Kasznar; DWYER. Daniela. The gears of fashion. 2.

edition. Rio de Janeiro: Senac Rio 2003.

KOHLER, [Link]ória do Vestuário. São Paulo: Editora Martins Fontes, 1996.

LAVER, James. Clothing and Fashion: A Concise History. São Paulo: Publisher
Letters Company, 1989.
 33

LIPOVETSKY, Gilles. The Empire of the Ephemeral: Fashion and its Destiny in Societies
modern. São Paulo, Companhia das Letras 1998.

MIRANDA, Ana Paula de. Fashion consumption: the person-object relationship. São Paulo:
Station of Letters and Colors, 2008.

OSTROWER, [Link] e Processo de Criacao. Rio de Janeiro:Editora

Voices, 1977

SCHIMID, Erika; FEGHALI, Marta Kasznar. THE CYCLE OF FASHION. Rio de Janeiro:
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RECH, [Link]: por um fio de qualidade. Florianópolis : UDESC, 2002.

TREPTOW, [Link] moda:planejamento de coleção. 4. ed. Brusque,

Santa Catarina, 2005.
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MORAES, Daniela Eufrásio Cavallaro. Fashion and Art in the 20th Century. Work of
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