Cotton

Cotton is a very commonly used textile fiber in the textile industry. Due to its uses
versatile; it is made of short, natural, plant-based fiber. It has a natural color that varies
in earthy tones such as cream, sage, pecan, avocado, rust, and mauve.
Suá19 \\ 10250 ]

[ CITATION Suá19 l 10250 ]

The maturity of cotton is a measure of the degree of development of the cell wall.
immature cotton also leads to the formation of neps. These consist of bundles of
irreversibly entangled immature fibers in tight knots. Like the neps not
they can be undone in the ordinary textile process, causing irregularities in the threads
and light stains on the dyed items. It is worth noting that the affinity of cotton
dead compared to the ripe is very inferior, which gives rise to articles tinged with low
quality. Longitudinally, cotton appears as a flattened fiber in its
Edges. Normally, what is appreciated in it are the so-called 'false torsion turns'.

The approximate composition of raw cotton is as follows:

80-85% Cellulose 6-8%

Water 1-1.8%

Mineral compounds 1-2.8%

Nitrogenous compounds 0.4-1%

Peptic materials 0.5-1%

Waxes 3-5%

Pigments, tobacco, etc.

Physical Structure of Cotton Fiber

It is made up of cells, which, viewed under the microscope, in the direction of their length
they present irregular twists in the form of flattened tubes along their entire length.

Cross section longitudinal cut

[ CITATION Lav13 l 10250 ]

Main physical properties of Cotton

Length

The length of the cotton fiber is an important indicator of spinning. The length
The length of cotton fiber varies from 16mm to 52mm depending on the type of cotton.

The main factors that affect cotton length are the varieties of
cotton, the growth conditions and the quality of processing. The process of
spinning is closely related to the length of the fiber, and the parameters of the
the process of each process must match the length of the cotton fiber used
to ensure the quality of production and processing.
10250

Tenacity

The tenacity of the fiber is an index to measure resistance to external forces.

los materiales textiles. El alargamiento es un índice para medir la capacidad de
deformation of textile materials. They are very important for durability of
the textiles.

[ CITATION Ant12 l 10250 ]

Fineness

The fineness can be greater in the case of immature fiber. The finer the fibers,
the greater is the resistance of the thread. However, the cotton with little maturity has a
good fiber strength but low strength of the single thread. In addition, the fiber is
too thin, easy to knot, the spinning efficiency decreases.
Lav13 \l 10250 ]

[ CITATION Ant12 \l 10250 ]

Chemical properties of Cotton

Legal rate: The legal humidity rate is 8.5%. The moisture absorption is 14-
18% for a relative humidity of 95%.

Water retention by imbibition: it is 42-53%.

Solvent resistance: Good resistance to solvents.

Acids: When faced with acids, it is attacked, dissolving if they are concentrated and in
hot.

Alkalis. The behavior towards alkalis is good.

Oxidants attack cotton fibers: If the action of these oxidants is not controlled
it can attack the fiber and reduce its resistance.

Reducers: do not harm cotton. Cotton fabrics wash easily and their
greater resistance when wet than when dry makes them withstand washing very well
repeated.

Dyeing: cotton dyes easily with direct dyes, reactive dyes, vat and
sulfurous.

In the light, it has good resistance to degradation. They yellow with exposure.
prolongadas.

Molds and bacteria attack it.

The identification of fibers follows the normal analysis path starting with the test
pyrognostic, microscopy observation, and finally testing with solvents.
[ CITATION Ant12 10250 ]

Main Properties According to the Type of Cotton

Main Properties
Type of
Country
Cotton Length Resistance Fineness
(mm) (g/tex) (micronaire)

Peru Peruvian Pima 38.10 – 41.27 38 - 40 3.5 – 4.2

Tangüis 29.36 – 32.54 34 - 35 4.6 - 5.8

Egypt Giza -70 35 – 38.1 37 – 40 3.7 - 4.1

States
Supima - 7 33.65 – 35.41 38 3.94
United
 India J - 34 25.5 - 26.5 26 3.8 - 4.2

DCH - 32 34 - 36 34 -36 2.9 - 3.4

Africa Benin 28 - 29 28 - 29 3.7 - 4.4

Uzbekistan Grade 4 27.8 - 29.4 26 – 29.7 4.3 - 4.8

[ CITATION Bec031 l 10250 ]

Short fibers
They are natural fibers that naturally measure 1/2" in length. The systems of
Yarn can be regulated and adapted to the 'long fibers' or 'fiber length'. If the
fiber length is considerable, it could be more than ½”. A slight increase in the fibers
short (1/4") can cause damage to spinning performance and thread quality,
this is certain whether it is due to a genetic factor or to the rupture of fibers during the
processes.
Short fibers suffer fewer breakages during the manufacturing process at high temperatures.
speeds that the long fibers.
They usually do not reduce the speed of the machine when working with short fibers.
There are fewer neps in the short fibers and this is because there are no breakages when
moment to carry out the spinning, as this is one of the main causes of
that neps appear.
Cotton
It is a fiber of plant origin and the most used globally, one of the most common examples is
relevant as short fiber.
Features
Softness: It provides protection to our babies' skin as it is a
soft and pleasant fabric.
Versatility: Its fibers allow for weaving in different ways, achieving
very varied products.
Durability: They are very strong and durable.
Breathability: It has the property of absorbing sweat and allows the skin
to breathe.
Hypoallergenic fabric: It is a fabric that helps prevent irritations,
infections and allergies.
Bonote
It is a short fiber that is extracted from the coconut husk. There are two types of bonote: the fiber
brown, which is obtained from mature coconuts, and the fine white fiber, which is extracted from
the immature green coconuts.
Bonote fibers measure up to 35 centimeters long with a diameter of 12.
From 1,000 coconuts, 10 kilograms of coir could be extracted at 25 microns.
It has one of the highest concentrations of lignin, which makes it stronger.
but less flexible than cotton and unsuitable for dyeing.
The tensile strength of the bonote is lower compared to that of the abacá, but
has good resistance to microbial action and damage from saltwater, and does not
needs chemical treatment.

Hemp
Hemp fiber is one of the most valuable parts of the plant. It is found in the
interior of the stem and can measure from 80 cm to 4 m in length. The fibers
shorter woody heart fibers ('wool') contain higher levels of lignin.
Biodegradable fiber, lightweight and resistant; its diameter is between 16 and 50 microns.
It has high resistance to tensile stress; once woven, it can be as
smooth and versatile like cotton, being stronger, more stable, more durable
and with greater water absorption capacity.
 It merges with the dyes and does not fade easily, which means that the
garment retains the same shape and color even after multiple
washed.

Kapok
It is a white fiber similar to hair, obtained from the seeds of the tree called
Ceiba Pentandra. It is also called 'silk cotton' due to its brightness similar to
that of silk. It is a short and weak fiber, it is resistant to moisture and its
the texture is smooth and glossy.

Light fiber, provides a soft texture to fabrics and has an excellent

humidity control.
The fiber cannot be twisted when being wound, but it is used for the
mattress fillings, pillows, upholstery, dolls.

Cut fibers
This is how synthetic fibers and filaments that have been cut to a length are called.
determined in order to go through different processes of natural fiber.
Polyamide
Synthetic fiber that arises from chemical reactions because it is a compound of type
polymer, that is, macromolecules that are formed through covalent bonds.
It is resistant, mechanical, rigid, hard, and has medium toughness.
It is used for the manufacture of safety nets in the construction area.
What is a component with a very high damping capacity rate.
Its properties make it a durable as well as a resistant material.
It contains essential features that allow for good sliding.
It works perfectly as a thermal insulator as it has a high rate of
moisture absorption and prevents the passage of air through it.

It applies to construction products, filtration, and rubber products.

Polyester
Most commonly used synthetic fiber, often found blended with other fibers to
reduce wrinkles and soften the touch and achieve faster drying of the fabric.
It is not absorbent, retains heat better, resists acids, alkalis, and also
stain resistant.
Stretch-resistant, does not wrinkle easily, and is not attacked by
mold bacteria.
According to its blend, it is used for the manufacturing of fabrics for shirting.
pants, skirts, threads, complete suits, bedding and tablecloths, fabric of
point.

Considerations for spinning short fiber blends

If the material entering the comb has a higher percentage of short fibers,
the greater the waste obtained.
The nature of short fibers encourages their ends to stand out more.
easily from the body or axis of the thread, giving an appearance of fuzziness or
hairiness
Regulations on machines are becoming more complicated due to the control of the
fibers.
In case of working with different bales of cotton. Before mixing, evaluate the
main characteristics such as fineness variation, place where it was
cultivated, fiber maturity, etc. to avoid barring problems.
By dosing different materials in different proportions, such as for example
polyester and cotton blends, heavy-duty loaders can be used.
Manage a control of the proportion of materials
 SHORT FIBER SPINNING PROCESSES - COTTON

In cotton spinning, three processes can be distinguished: one for the cotton
carding, another for the combed cotton and another for the rotor spinning or also called
"open end". However, the cotton spinning process can also be included in
mix with others fibers artificial.
For each process, the following spinning activities can be considered:

• Carded cotton spinning process

Apertura – Cardado – Manuar – Mechera – Hilatura – Acabado

• Combing cotton spinning process

Apertura – Cardado – Manuar – Reunidora de cintas – Peinado – Mechera – Hilatura -

Finished

• Open end or rotor spinning process

Apertura – Cardado – Manuar – Hilatura

• Process of spinning combed cotton / manufactured fiber

(Polyester or viscose)

Algodón:Apertura – Cardado – Manuar – Reunidora de cintas – Peinado

Polyester: Opening - Carding - Stretching

Then both are joined in the spinner, and thereafter the spinning process begins.

The aforementioned processes will be explained below.

OPENING

The opening consists of separating the compressed layers or fiber balls into small pieces.
strands, to facilitate transport and handling (reducing their size to avoid
entangled parts) and an effective cleaning of the material (removal of impurities
trapped inside it.

The opening operation aims to open the bales of fiber and prepare them.
before they enter the spinning process. It refers to the release of the strapping.
(straps) that keep the bale (also called fiber bale) compressed, to induce
to the fiber to its environmental conditioning for a period of time before its feeding
to the process.

Machine-harvested cotton contains a higher percentage of trash and

dirt that is picked up by hand. A bank of bales or bundles is formed, with a
determined number or quantity of them considering whether the feeding of the first ones
machines are manual, semi-automated or fully automated.

The cotton varies from bale to bale, so a blend is made that begins
taking proportional parts from each of the bales to feed the first one
machine. This first mix aims to compensate for the differences in
length, cleanliness, maturity, and color, so that finally a fiber is generated
homogeneous.

Then, a disintegration occurs in the first machines of the process through

cylinders equipped with spikes or tips that rotate at a certain speed, separating the
compact masses of fiber, beating them and removing dust or impurities at the same time
that the fibers are blending.

The opening phase is composed of:

Loaders: it is the first machine of the process, it receives the fiber manually.
the mechanical process and through cylinders with spikes that rotate at low speed, the process begins.

disaggregation and removal of heavier impurities. The loaders can

to be
Automatic Loader
The fibers are deposited on a horizontal web, and later through
from an inclined shelf are stored in a mixing chamber and
conveniently dosed for the next process.
Weighing Loader
When in addition to feeding the opening and cleaning train, it is necessary
dose different materials in different proportions, such as for example
polyester and cotton blends can use weighing loaders.
Openers: they are equipped with a greater number of cylinders that are protruding.
they spin at a higher speed to continue the deep cleaning of the fiber,
continue to disaggregate it until there are no compact masses of fiber.
Mixers: they are containers where the fiber processed by the machines arrives.
anteriores para ser ahora una mezcla homogénea. Mediante aspiración se extraen
the remains of dust and dirt.
Frame: receives the fibers in suitable condition of opening, cleaning and
mix to start its transformation into a sheet and obtain a roll with a
determined weight and length.

Figure. Opening of the cotton bales.

Source: CCI (2007).

CARDING
It is a key operation in the spinning process and directly determines the
final characteristics of the thread, an idea of its importance is given to us by the fact that it is
consider the heart of the spinning.

There are many objectives of carding:

Opening of the fiber flakes and individualization of them.

Removal of impurities contained in the material that were not eliminated
in the previous cleaning processes.
Selection of fibers based on their length, removing the short fibers.
Parallelization and stretching of the fibers.
Elaboration of a ribbon, that is, in a mass of fibers without twist.

In summary, the function of carding is:

Separate and disaggregate the fibers.

Mix the fibers.

Remove the neps formed during opening and cleaning, remove polc.
Formation of a belt that will serve to feed the machines in operations
posteriors.

The carding machine consists of several parts, each with specific functions.
independent from each other, but strongly related to form a set
where all the parts are necessary to carry out the efficient operation of
carded.

The card is made up of a certain number of moving parts, (front taker,

large drum, covers, worker, cleaner) coated with elastic points in steel and
rigid steel reinforcements in the shape of saw teeth. These pieces are already moved
see with a sense of rotation or lateral displacement, but with different speeds.
They are adjusted very close to each other, almost in tangential contact, but without
to touch oneself.

The effect of carding, disaggregation, and cleaning of fibers is carried out between the large drum and

the fixed and mobile clamps. It is essential in this machine to control

fiber rupture, the removal of neps, and the amount and type of waste produced.
It must be taken into account that, for a card to work efficiently, it must eliminate the
80% of the neps that enter. In the carding process, a strip of fibers is obtained, which is
folded inside a boat that will go on to feed the following machines of the
process. It is also important to control the regularity of the mass of the carding belt
obtained, as well as its title and coefficient of variation. For this reason, the cards
They usually carry mass regulation equipment for both short and long periods.
Figure. Cotton carding.

Source: CCI (2007).

 MANUAL OR STRETCHING

Stretching is a fundamental operation in spinning and consists of sliding the fibers.

one another in order to achieve a greater length by reducing the section of the
material in preparation.

Its main objective is to parallelize and homogenize the fibers through the
folding and stretching, moreover fiber blends can be made through folding.

Stretching does not cause elongation of the fibers; it involves a reduction of mass.
of fibers through the longitudinal displacement of some fibers with respect to others. They
It focuses on the first spinning cycle machines and essentially serves to
separate the fibrous material, removing impurities and short fibers.

The raw material for the stretching process is the tape supplied by the carding machines.
love must meet the following requirements:

It should not have thick or thin sections.

It must have a normal weight and length

The tapes are extracted from the carding machines using feeding rollers and then
they run along the 'tape guides' where the 'bending' occurs. After the
Once the ribbons are folded, they go to the stretching train. When the ribbons are stretched, the
fibers also parallelize and mix with each other. The stretching process is carried out
cable using a set of rollers called the Otren stretching system.

The first pair of rollers are the feeding ones. Elecartamiento (distance between the
axes of two adjacent cylinders of a stretching system) in the pre-stretch zone,
It is usually about 7 or 8 mm more than the length of the fiber. The spacing of the area
The main stretch is usually about 3 or 4 mm longer than the length of the fiber.

After the stretching, the emergent tape from the output rollers passes through a
funnel where it is reduced and compacted into two cylinders to be introduced into a container
at the output of the machine. In the manuals, especially in the 'second step' ones, it is
It is common to have some self-regulating mechanisms for the linear mass or strip title.
obtained in order to improve its regularity. In the event of working with two steps
To handle after the hairstylist, the self-regulator would be placed in the last step. The
self-regulating manures allow it to stop when the permitted mass variation,
exceeds a certain value; normally, +/- 5%.

One of the essential controls to carry out is that of the title of the ribbon, obtaining its
average value and its coefficient of variation. It is important to carry it out once every
shift, at minimum.

An excessive widening in the stretching areas of the manual will cause fibers.
completely uncontrolled floating objects that will manifest as 'stretch waves'
in the corresponding spectrogram. Its regularity must also be monitored.
mass, which in the current manuals is done online (just as it can be done in the
cardas).

If there is no online control, it must also be done once per shift. If in the manual
the mixture of two fibers is produced, for example, cotton and polyester, it must be controlled
also the mixing percentage.

Figure. Process of manual or stretching of cotton.

 Source: CCI (2007).

HAIRDO PREPARATION: GATHERER

The preparation of the gathered combines several fiber strips into a bundle, that is to say, the strip.

necessary folded plan for the hairstyle.

Before proceeding to comb the cotton fibers, the material must be arranged in a

appropriate format to carry out this operation.

For this, there are two prior operations which are:

Tape reunitor: This operation consists of transforming the tapes

obtained in the manual in a manner that they can be used in the

next machine the napas gatherer, which will feed the combing machine that

the combing operation will be carried out. This machine gathers between 20 and 24

manual tapes, where from a small stretch, between 1.2 to 1.5 forms

a sheet. In the roll gathering machine, the weight of the rolls must be controlled.

napa and its coefficient of variation between weights should not exceed

0.5%.

Overlapping aquifers: The formed aquifers 'overlap' to form a

single nap. This one is, in turn, subjected to a stretching process when passing

around a roller with the purpose of producing a more compact layer,

with a higher level of cohesion and homogeneity. One of the defects that

they can produce in the aquifers is a gradual variation of their mass due to a

excessive stretching at the output of the gatherer. This can be easily detected.

in the regularimeter diagram. The resulting layers will be those that

feed the various heads of the hairdressers. The transport of these layers
usually to be automatic.
 Figure. Tape collector.

Source: Youtube (2012).

hairstyle

On the combing machine, short and coarse fibers are removed, neps and impurities are eliminated, and

the parallelism of the fibers increases. After the combing machine, one should have a

only handle of self-regulating manual to then continue with the lighter. From

from the profitability perspective, the selection of a cotton to be destined for the process

the hairstyle will depend on its fiber diagram (short fiber), its micronaire, and for

supposed of on price.

It is recommended that the waste from the hairdresser be a maximum of between 15 and one

20%

A hairdresser can have between 6 and 12 styling heads, which gathers its ribbons in a

integrated manual in the same machine, with the purpose of regulating the joints

produced during the styling cycles. It is a machine whose operation is

relatively complex, and that styles a layer in a discontinuous process,

that takes place in repeated operating cycles.

The styling cycle consists of the following steps:

Styling of the heads

Preparation for the ponytail hairstyle

Styling of the tails

Current hair styling machines can reach 500 styling cycles per minute. After styling,

the tape condenses on a ribbon and joins the other ribbons that emerge from the others

styling heads on a tray placed under the machine and throughout it

length.

Then the tapes undergo a stretching operation again, similar to that of

manually, so that a single cohesive and homogeneous strip is obtained.

A commercial classification of combed cotton yarns may be:

HALF-UPDO: 5 to 9% waste

NORMAL HAIRCUT: 10 to 15% waste

UPPER HAIRSTYLE: more than 15% waste

One of the fundamental controls is waste in %. It should also be

control the amount of Neps/g, the title of the produced tape and its coefficient of

variation, as well as its regularity. The previous checks must be carried out at least

once per turn.

The finishing operation after styling consists of a second pass over the

to provide greater cohesion to the tapes that have come out of the hairstylist and, to

at the same time increase its regularity. The manual used in the finishing operation
The hairstyle at the back is the same as the one used in the stage prior to styling. In this

In this case, it is advisable for the manual to be self-regulating.

 Figure. Cotton hairstyle.

Source: Directindustry (2020).

Lighter

Also called fine preparation. It consists of producing a thinner ribbon.

called mecha, which presents a certain resistance to stretching thanks to a slight

twisting. It is used to feed the continuous ring spinning, to form the yarn.

the function of the wick is to thin the manuar tape to obtain the wick

properly said, stretched and twisted, that will feed the continuous spinning.

This twisting must occur so that the component fibers of the wick can withstand the

efforts to which they are subjected in the continuous spinning (winding), and not

uncontrolled stretching that increases the irregularity of the manufactured threads.

The spinner is fed with manual tape rolls, both in the spinning system of
carded like hairdo. Each strap coming from the manuar cans ends up in a

stretched train. Therefore, the tape is transformed into wick through a process of

stretched and twisted that we will see. The stretching train consists of a group of cylinders of

feeding of which the lower roller is metallic and has grooves, while the

the top is covered with rubber. At both the top and bottom of the train

During stretching, there are rubber bags whose mission is to control the fibers.

Finally, there are the output cylinders. The prior stretching in the sliver must not be

greater than 1.5, while the total stretching is between 10 and 15. On the other hand, there is

that choose the appropriate bag separator or 'clip' in each case, depending

basically from the thickness of the wick and the stretching. If the stretching is not correct, and

the fuse does not melt (raw fuse), action must be taken on the pressure of the cylinders

stretch and/or increase the distance between the upper and lower bags. It can also be

act on the divergences of the stretching areas.

The twist of the yarn depends on the relationship between the rotation of the spindle and the speed at

the one that the wick comes out of the stretching train. It should always be the minimum necessary

to withstand the tensile force to which it will be subjected in the following operation, the

spun, but without it posing excessive difficulty for the spinning operation. The

the vertical movement of the spindle bench allows for proper folding of the drill bits,

placing the coils (spirals) parallel to each other. In the lighters

the changes of moving are made automatically, which allows to shorten from

an important way to improve timelines, and therefore increase performance.

Another important aspect to consider is the automatic transport of the

mechanisms. This optimizes the performance of the machines, as well as allows

reduce the amount of labor.

The most important controls to be carried out on a lighter are: title and its coefficient of

percentage variation, mass regularity in capacitive system (Uster, Keisokki, etc.)

obtaining both the diagram and the spectrogram. The above from a plan of

sampling that goes through all the spikes of the lighter. These controls must

It should be done at each shift. It is also advisable to keep track of drill breakages.

for every 1000 spindles/hour, detailing whether it is at the beginning, in the middle, or at the end of the

breakage. The breaks should not exceed 20 per 1000 spindles/hour in the case of

cotton.

Figure. Diagram of the lighter.

 Source: CCI (2007).

What are the international standards for quality in the textile industry?
base for the cotton yarn trade such as the USTER STATISTICS
2018?
In spinning, the aim is always to create good quality yarns, but this term can
being subjective to each person, as it may depend on their own standards or those of
the competition. The company Uster conducted a comprehensive study of global values of
the spinning products based on statistically representative tests,
publishing their results under the title Uster Statistics. This serves to help with
yarn producers, yarn users and machine manufacturers.
Yarn producers:
It allows them to establish key performance indicators in the spinning process, to achieve
operational excellence, specify and communicate quality objectively, as well as
guarantee the quality of the thread produced and sold.

Thread users:
It allows you to specify the required quality (quality profile), select threads with the
appropriate quality, optimize the yarn producers' portfolio and pay the price
correct for the correct quality.
Machine manufacturers:
It allows them to develop spinning machinery achieving production goals and
quality, develop the correct spinning components, develop plans for
adequate maintenance, in addition to linking productivity with quality.
This is thanks to the statistical data presented in the Uster Statistics.
regarding:
The irregularity of ribbons, threads, and yarns
The frequency of frequent faults in the thread (imperfections)
The frequency of rare failures in the thread (defects)
The resistance and elongation to breakage of threads
The variation of the linear density of the thread
The hairiness of the thread

The variation of the diameter of the wire

The impurities and dust from the threads
The roundness of the thread
Uster HVI 1000
In ancient times, the spinning mills purchased cotton based on their
experience. However, this type of very risky decisions present
consequences on thread quality when different problems arise, such as variation
due to tone from spots, yellowing, presence of neps, very short fibers, etc.
USTER HVI 1000 solves all these problems. The classification of cotton based on
this instrument produces test results that are very accurate. The tests are
can be completed in seconds, by a single operator. It also provides quickly
complete reports on eleven important quality characteristics that describe the
length, strength, fineness, color, and moisture content of the fiber. The result is
consistent and objective fiber quality data, that allows spinners to make
smarter and simpler buying decisions and prices.
The recognition granted to USTER HVI is highlighted in the agreement of the Standards.
Cotton Universals, signed by 24 cotton associations from 21 countries, that
approve the universal cotton quality standards for strength, length,
uniformity index, micronaire, color grade. These standards are set as the
Universal HVI standards are maintained using USTER HVI 1000 for
establish the values.
The standard measurements carried out by the USTER HVI 1000 are:

Length: Measurement of the average length of the fiber.

Length uniformity: It is determined by the division of the average length of
the fiber and the average length of the upper half.
Resistance: Break strength of the fiber strand in grams divided by the
fineness of the fiber (in tex).
Elongation: Elongation to the break of the bundle of fibers.
Micronaire: Indicator of fiber fineness by measuring the amount of
air resistance passing through the sample.
Maturity Index: Value calculated based on HVI measurements of
micronaire, resistance, and elongation.
Moisture Content: Amount of moisture present in the sample in the
moment of testing. It has a strong influence on the strength of the fiber,
elongation and length measurements.
Short Fiber Index: a calculated value that indicates the percentage of the fibers
shorter than 0.5 inches.
 Color: determined by reflectance and yellowness. The classification code of
color is based on USDA color standards for upland and pima cotton
user-specified color classifications.
Garbage: Count of garbage particles present in the fiber.
Hilability Consistency Index (SCI): A value calculated based on
the HVI measurements of length, length uniformity, strength,
micronaire, reflectance and yellowing.

The optional measurements performed by the USTER HVI 1000 are:

Fluorescence of the Fiber: Measures the amount of ultraviolet light that is reflected.
from the cotton sample. The storage practices of cotton and
Growth conditions will affect fluorescence. Important differences.
In UV values, they can cause banding issues.
Neps:Cantidad de Neps por gramo.

The following figure shows the results of the analysis of cotton samples:

Fig: Measurement results of cotton with USTER HVI 1000

With the results obtained through the measurement of different samples, it will be possible to
make an appropriate decision so that in the subsequent processes it does not
spinning problems due to the presence of short fibers, thread breakage in the fabric
the dyeing problems such as streaking due to the presence of immature fibers or
yellowing.
Uster AFIS
The USTER AFIS is an essential tool for control in the process of
preparation of the spinning, its importance lies in ensuring the quality of the fiber for
in this way guarantee the quality of the thread.
For efficient operation and quality thread production, controls are necessary.
in measurement of neps module, fiber length module, maturity module and
fineness and modulus of waste.
In the measurement of the AFIS neps Module, the following is evaluated:

The total gram count of fiber neps and seed hull neps
Fiber nep count per gram
Husk particles per gram
Average size of fiber neps and seed husk neps
Distribución del tamaño de neps de fibras y neps de cascarilla de semilla
Histograms of the distribution of fiber neps and seed coat neps
Critical size report of neps
The measurements of the AFIS length module evaluate:
The average length of individual fibers by number and weight
Variation in fiber length
Percentage of short fiber content by number and weight
Length of fibers of the upper quartile
Histograms of the length distribution
Report of distance between rollers (track gauge)
In the measurements of the Maturity and Fineness Module AFIS:

The Average Fiber Fineness (militex)

Maturity Relationship
Content of Immature Fiber (IFC)
Distributions histograms of fineness and maturity
In the measurements of the AFIS garbage Module, the following is evaluated:

The total counts of trash and dust

Total average size of garbage and dust
Number of dust particles per gram of fiber
Average dust size
Number of plastic particles per gram of fiber
Average size of garbage
Percentage of visible foreign matter
Histograms of waste and dust distribution
Uster Statistics 2018
In 2018, Uster Statistics entered a new era, being available as an application.
mobile for computer and mobile devices. This version differs because
presents a series of blended yarns virtually illustrating a greater variety of threads
in the current market.

The new USTER® STATISTICS publication includes new quality features,

expanded thread title ranges and more types of yarns, which are illustrated in
almost 4,000 graphs, showing quality data of numerous fibers, yarns, and processes.

In addition, two new quality features were added, the first is the
elongation of the fiber, which depends on the type of cotton and helps to obtain a better
performance in weaving with high values; and the second is the difference in neps by
bark and neps of the fiber, which is based on market observations, thus following
the trends of the industry.

Figure: USTER STATISTICS 2018

Bibliographic references:
USTER. (2008). USTER HVI 1000 For the control and selection of fibers.

USTER.

USTER. (2008). USTER HVI 1000 The fiber classification and analysis system.

[Link]

n_USTER_HVI_1000_web_brochure.pdf

Washing, F. E. L. (2012). III. The textile industry and its quality control.

Laundry. Fidel Lockuá[Link]://[Link]/books?id=nkJZ93e-9-

wC&printsec=frontcover&hl=en&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepa

ge&q&f=false

Coats Group (2020). Thread Production. Retrieved from:

[Link]

Production of Spinning of Polyester and Cotton Fibres

International Trade Centre (ITC) (2007). Exporter's Guide

cotton. Geneva, Switzerland.

Solé, A. (2012). Cotton Spinning. Technological Notebook No. 1. Institute

Textile Technology Institute (AITEX) of Spain.

Quiroga, F. (2012). Gatherer 1. Retrieved from:

[Link]