MINISTRY OF EDUCATION

SECRETARY OF PROFESSIONAL AND TECHNOLOGICAL EDUCATION

FEDERAL INSTITUTE OF EDUCATION, SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY OF SANTA CATARINA
ARARANGUÁ UNIT

First
EDITING

Angela Maria Kuasne

da Silva Macedo
 MINISTRY OF EDUCATION
SECRETARY OF PROFESSIONAL AND TECHNOLOGICAL EDUCATION
FEDERAL INSTITUTE OF EDUCATION, SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY OF SANTA CATARINA
ARARANGUÁ UNIT

Mesh Analysis Notebook (ANM)

Developed by Prof. Angela Maria Kuasne da Silva Macedo
Basic, Technical and Technological Education Teacher at the Araranguá Teaching Unit
For the Textile Technical Course: Knitting and Sewing.

The reproduction of this manual must be authorized by IFET.

 MINISTRY OF EDUCATION
SECRETARY OF PROFESSIONAL AND TECHNOLOGICAL EDUCATION
FEDERAL INSTITUTE OF EDUCATION, SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY OF SANTA CATARINA
ARARANGUÁ UNIT

1. WHAT ARE KNITTED FABRICS?

To answer this question, we must analyze the intertwining below:

Collect the sample Collect the sample Collect the sample

here here here

Figure 1: Flat Fabric Figure 2: Knitted Fabric Figure 3: Non-Woven Fabric

Table 1: Types of Fabrics.

Nonwoven: According to the NBR – 13370 standard, nonwoven is a flat, flexible, and porous structure.
consisting of veil or blanket of fibers, or filaments, oriented directionally or at random,
consolidated by processes: mechanical (friction) and/or chemical (adhesion) and/or thermal (cohesion) or
combination of these.

Plain Fabric: it is a structure produced by the interlacing of a set of warp threads and
another set of weave wires, forming an angle of (or close to) 90º.
4. Warp: Set of threads arranged in the longitudinal (length) direction of the fabric.
5. Plot: Set of threads arranged in the transverse direction (width) of the fabric.

Knit Fabric: The loop is the fundamental element of this type of fabric, consisting of a
head, two legs and two feet. The mesh run is the succession of consecutive loops in
sense of the width of the fabric. The column of stitches is the succession of consecutive loops in the direction
of the length of the fabric. The structure and geometry of knitted items differ.
substantially of weaving fabrics, in which the weft and warp threads intertwine
forming a quite rigid frame (figure 1). In the mesh, on the contrary, a wire takes the shape
of the loops that go through the loops of another thread and so on.
 MINISTRY OF EDUCATION
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FEDERAL INSTITUTE OF EDUCATION, SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY OF SANTA CATARINA
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2. WHAT DO I NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THE MESH?

PARTS OF THE MESH

Figure 4 - Unit Mesh.

The figure above presents a mesh or point (in English = stitch), maintained in its shape by
upper and lower return points, by other meshes.

Each mesh consists of a head, two legs, and two feet. At the location where the legs are
we transform into feet, there are two points of contact with the previous mesh. These are called
connection points.

Figure 5 - Connection Points.

If the feet of the meshes are located above the connection points and, correspondingly, the legs
under them, so technically, this is the back of the mesh or the reverse of the fabric.

Figure 6 - Back of the fabric (reverse).

If on the contrary, the feet are below, and the legs above, at their connection points, then,
technically, there is the front face of the mesh or the right side of the fabric.
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Figure 7 - Face of the mesh (right).

If the knitted fabrics have one side made up only of the front faces of the knits, and the other
fabric face, only from the backs of knits, then it is said that the fabric is single face
and was produced on single-sided machines (with a single set of needles).

Here is the sample Here is the sample

demonstrating your demonstrating your
straight and straight and
opposite respectively.
opposite
respectively.

Figure 8 - Right and Wrong Side of the Fabric.

Figure 9 - Microscopic View of a Mesh.

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In the construction of the fabric, we observe two distinct elements:

1. The knitting career: it is a series of successive loops of the same yarn that cross the fabric.
transversely. All the loops (stitches) of a row are formed by the same thread.

Figure 10 - Mesh career.

2. The mesh column: it is a series of loops of different threads, which are positioned in the direction of
comprimento do tecido. Todas as malhas de uma mesma coluna são formadas numa mesma
The needle and the number of columns influence the determination of the fabric width.

Figure 11 – Mesh column.

Here is the sample

marked with a column
(in blue) and career
(in red).
Figure 12 - Illustration of columns and careers.

The knitting mechanism consists of forming loops of threads, with the help of thin needles and
knots. When new loops are formed, they are pulled through other loops.
formed earlier. The intertwining and continuous formation of new loops produce the
knitted fabric.

If we pull a thread from the last row, the loops will come undone, and the fabric may become unraveled.
with ease.
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ARARANGUÁ UNIT

Figure 13 - Destruction of the mesh tissue.

2. WORKING WITH DEVELOPMENT AND

PROGRAMMING OF MESH ARTICLES
PLOT
The weave mesh is constructed using machinery that produces items made up of rows of
knits formed in the direction of the weave.

To illustrate this concept, below we have what would be the simplest of the ligaments in this
type of knitwear: the half-knit.

Figure 14 – Unravelable article (half-knit).

It can be easily noticed that if we pull one of the threads that make up one of the careers, this
it will be undone. This is one of the basic characteristics of articles produced about machinery for
weaves: they are always unweavable. Thus, the connection of an article can be analyzed.
through the unraveling, which consists of pulling the threads, one by one, and observing the way they
they were worked on. Often, a thread counter (magnifying lens with a base) is also used.
graduated in centimeters or inches) to facilitate the visualization of the connection. The wire counter allows,
also determine the density of columns and rows in the given article.
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Figure 15 – Wire Counter.

CONCEPT OF TECHNICAL NOTATION
To fully understand the structures seen in knit fabrics, it is necessary to understand the
concept of notation. The two methods used to perform the notation of the frame meshes in
paper is graphics techniques and diagram.

GRAPHICAL REPRESENTATION

The graphic technique uses figures or photographs to illustrate the structure of the tissue just like in the figure
below

Figure 16 - Graphical Representation.

TYPES OF LOOPS

The loop is the basic element for forming the mesh. To develop the various types of
existing structures, infinite combinations are made with the three types of existing loops: loop
regular (mesh); retention loop (fang) and the floating loop (non-working).

mesh fang not working

Figure 17 – Types of Loops.
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DIAGRAMMATIC REPRESENTATION

The constituent elements of the mesh weave connections are represented diagrammatically from the
following way:

Agulhas:
Fang:

Disheveled:
Does not work

Mesh:

WORKING WITH DIFFERENT NEEDLES

From what has been seen so far, we can note that any adjustment made in a system of stones will be
transmitted equally to all the machine's needles, as they will all go through this system.

In this way, if we regulate the stones of a system to make fang, all the needles
the machine will make fang in the same career.

However, there are countless contexts in which we need, in the same career
of mesh, some needles are controlled differently from the others. So that we can
to achieve this effect, we can use different types of needles that can be controlled by
different forms in the same system.

This will allow for a selection of needles, based on a pre-established placement of the
different types of needles in the machine.

Basically, there are 3 ways to differentiate the needles:

High and low foot needles:

In this case, we will have 2 types of needles to use: high-foot needles and low-foot needles.
Both types have feet placed at the same distance from the head, but at different heights.

In this way, high heel needles have larger feet than low heel needles. See the figure
below:

Figure 18 - High Heel and Low Heel Needles.

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The stones can be regulated at 3 different levels establishing 3 ways of working.

[Link] in total action: Acts on all needles, both high foot and low foot.
All the needles will work equally.
[Link] in half action: Act only on high heel needles. The low heel needles
they pass under the stone and are not commanded.
[Link] out of action: Does not act on any needle.

Figure 19 - The Action of the Stones on High Heel and Low Heel Needles.
b) Short and Long Needles

In this case, we also have two types of needles: short needles and long needles. Both types
it has the same length body but the difference is in the location of the foot along the
body, as shown in the figure below:

Figure 20 – Short and Long Needles.

In order to control the two types of needles, each system must have two sets of stones.
placed at different levels, so that the lower set acts only on the needles
long and the upper only on the short needles with both types controlled
independently.

TYPES OF NEEDLE COMMANDS FOR CIRCULAR LOOMS FOR

WEAVING OF MALHARIA

DIRECT COMMAND

The direct command is when only the needle's feet in direct contact with the...
stones. Thus, in this type of command, the movement of the needles is determined exclusively by the
action of the stones of the blocks on the feet of the needles.
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Circular looms can also be classified based on their command resources.

needles. Within this classification we find:

Single track tears

With 1 type of needle

They are looms intended for the production of smooth half-knit fabrics (without patterns). They use only one
type of needle. They do not offer stone selection features. Current machines use a large
number of systems (generally in the range of 70 to 120 systems), whose main objective is to
obtain greater production. Horizontal striped fabrics are very common in these looms. In this case the
report is limited to the number of systems.

Figure 21 – Command with 1 Type of Needle.

With 2 types of needles (high foot and low foot)

In our tears with a track, small effects can be achieved, but the fact that it does not allow for
alternation, that is, the possibility of switching a connection from one career to another such as,
For example, the first system doing mesh and fang and the second doing fang and mesh limits usage.
In this case, there are only 6 connection possibilities (6 types of stones):

A B C D E F
High foot Mesh Mesh Mesh Fang Fang Not-Working
Flat feet Mesh Fang Non-Working Fang Does Not Work Does Not Work

Tears with 2 tracks

Tears with 6 types of needles

The placements of high and low feet at two different levels allow us to obtain 6 types of
different needles.
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Figure 22 - Command with 2 Types of Needles.

All needles have a foot at the upper level, since the machine has only one stone.
of descent, located at this level. At the upper level we have two possibilities, high foot or low foot,
On the lower track, we have three possibilities: high foot, low foot, and no foot.

The types of stones used are the same as those of single-track looms and two types of needles, but with the
the presence of 2 tracks (2 paths) considerably increases the possibilities of knitting.
With the combination of stones and needles, it is possible to achieve a multitude of variations, including
classic articles like Lacoste, Locknit, Moletom 3 x 1, etc. The limitation of these resources
it is in the number of alternations that can be made, which in this case is only possible to make one
alternation. To know if a sample can be programmed or not with the above resources,
It is recommended to follow the following steps:

a) Determine the connection ratio (number of needles and number of systems). If the ratio
having only 2 types of needles (2 points: mesh or fang, for example) is certain that
it can be scheduled, if the report has more than two types of needles, it is necessary
summarize the movements of the hands. In this summary, you can disregard the lines where
all needles make stitches.
b) Check the number of alternations. If we have only 1 work alternation, it is possible
programar. Com mais de 1 alternância, não será possível produzir o artigo. Sendo possível a
in your programming, it is necessary to locate the needles that allow for the execution of the movements
in all systems.

It is recommended to use needles 1 and 6 or 1 and 2, as these allow for alternation. When there are 3
needles in the report (mesh, fang and not working) needles 1, 2 and 6 are recommended. The table to
follow shows the job possibilities and the stones needed for the two tracks:

A A A A A A B B B B B B C C C C C C
A B C D E F A B C D E F A B C D E F
1 M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M
2 M M M M M M M F F F F F M F - F - -
3 M M M M M M F F F F F F - - - - - -
4 M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M
5 M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M
6 M M M M M M M M M F F F M M M F F-

D D D D D D E E E E E E F F F F F F
A B C D E F A B C D E F A B C D E F
1 F F F F F F F F F F F F - - - - - -
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2 M FF F F F M F - F - M F - F - -
3 F F F F F F - - - - - - - - - - - -
4 M M M F F F M M M F F F M M M F F -
5 M F M FF F M FF F F F M F - F - -
6 M M M F F F M M M F F - M M M F F -
Where: F = stone Does Not Work/Does Not Work
A = stone Mesh/Mesh 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 are the 6 types of needles
B = stone Mesh/Clay M = Mesh
C = stone Mesh/Does Not Work F = Fang
D = stone Fang/Fang ( - ) = Does Not Work
E = stone Fang/ Non-Works
The notation used to designate the combinations of stones is for 2 tracks where the first track is
the upper level and the lower level is the second track. In this way, the A/D combination, for example,
it means that we have a type A stone (Mesh/Mesh) at the higher level and a type D stone
(Fang/Fang) at the lower level. In this case, all types of needles will make normal loops, as all
the needles, in this case, receive the command from the type A stone. Now if the combination of stones
it was of the D/A type, that is, if the D type stone is at the upper level and the A type stone is at the
lower level, the one who will command is the high foot located at the top of the needles. The figure a
follow exemplifies these actions:

Figure 23 – Combination of Stones.

Tears with Long and Short Needles

As we have seen, the long needle is one that has its foot located at the bottom of it.
haste and the short needle, the one that has its foot located at the top of its shank. Both with
only one foot size and are generally used in double-bed looms.
Tears with 3 or more tracks
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The greater the number of tracks (technical ways), the greater the production resources of a loom.
Currently, we find on the market looms with 3, 4, or 5 tracks (with 5 being the most common). The
three-lane tears generally have an additional lane at the highest level, whose only
the function is to lower the needles. The other 3 tracks can work with stones to
mesh, fang, and non-working. One can work with 7 types of needles, but normally
we found only the needles and thread.

Figure 24 - Command with 3 Types of Needles.

The looms with 4 shafts usually have 5 paths, the upper path like in the other type.
of tear, commands the descent of the needles so that all the needles must have one foot on
highest level. In the 4 lower paths, stones can be placed for mesh, mud, and non-working.
The combination of the placement of the stones at these 4 levels with the placement of the 4 types of needles with
that this loom is equipped, provides the production of all knitted fabrics made by
previous tiers (1 track, 2 tracks and 3 tracks), in addition to enabling the production of a huge
variety of effects.

Figure 25 – Command with 4 Types of Needles.

Currently, there are looms with 5 tracks available on the market, which further increases the resources.
of these machines. Its design follows that of the 4-track loom in terms of the type
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REPORT (STANDARD)

Upon completing the total number of feeders, there is a repetition of the weaving structure and this
fact is known as 'rapport' of the fabric (in Portuguese raporte or pattern), that is, rapport is 'the
smallest unit of repetition of a mesh structure and its developments in the direction
vertical and horizontal that form the fabric.

In summary, the report determines the effect we wish to achieve on the mesh fabric, granting it this
a differentiated texture. The study and development of the various reports is called
pattern.

MAIN TEXTURES OF SINGLE-FRAME MACHINES

STRUCTURES PRODUCED WITH A NEEDLE SYSTEM

HALF KNIT (JERSEY)

The jersey is the most basic fabric of the single-bed machines, which is why these
equipment is also referred to as half mesh machines. The name Jersey derives from the place where
was initially manufactured: the Island of Jersey, England.

The interlock fabric has all the loops drawn only on one side of the fabric (all the stitches
they are simple). The fabric thus has a right side and a clearly defined wrong side (Figures 78 and 79).
All needles pull the fabric only in one direction. As a consequence, the half mesh is a
unbalanced fabric and, due to this difference in tension between the two sides, tends to curl
on the edges or, as it is commonly known, on the selvedges, as well as, they stretch approximately
in both directions, length and width.

Figure 26 - Diagram of the Inside and Outside.

These types of knitted fabrics can be produced on circular and flat knitting machines.
frontura. The mesh fabric is a light and simple programmed fabric, widely used in t-shirts.
sleepwear and underwear (lingerie). The fabric half knit has a single face, on the side
In the right side, we notice the legs of the stitches, and on the reverse side, we notice the feet and heads of the stitches.

The production of jersey fabric is done on single-bed machines. However, we can also knit...
I have machines that have two sets of needles (double-front), where naturally
we will only verify the weaving in one of the needle sets (in a single gauge).
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TECHNICAL SHEET AND SCHEDULING

ENTWINING

It represents the evolution of the thread in the feeders that make up the basic structure of the tissue.
The number of needles to be represented should be a significant total based on the intertwining.

The number of needles to be represented should be a total relative to the ratio of interlacing.

The numbering shown in the figure below, to the left of the intertwining, represents the number of
feeders that are necessary for obtaining the fabric.

Figure 27 - Representation of Entanglement.

2. LEGEND

The legend, as shown in the figure below, represents the types of climbing stones of the
needles for the three basic weaving positions: knit, fang, and non-working.

Mesh Fang Non-Work

Figure 28 - Basic Weaving Positions.

According to the interweaving presented in the feeders, the stones are assembled, following the
desired effect for each type of needle.

3. DISPOSITION OF THE NEEDLES

The arrangement of the needles shows the basic order of arrangement that they should occupy in the cylinder.
from the machine, according to the type of needles used.

It can be noted, from the examination of the figure below, that there are indications of 4 different types of needles, which
diverge due to the different position of the feet. It can then be stated that this machine can
work with up to four weaving tracks, which would be the same as saying that the machine can
work with up to four types of needles.
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Figure 29 - Arrangement of the Needles or Needling.

In the given example, we present the arrangement of the needles for up to four tracks, as the fabric, for
not being complex, it can be worked on in all situations. Depending on the degree of complexity of
fabric, situations change and demands increase, reaching the point of
we find fabrics that can only be obtained with four clues (or four types of needles).

4. ARRANGEMENT OF STONES

The arrangement of the stones presents the basic order of their placement in the feeders, in order to be
obtained the desired fabric. In the figure below, we present the basic distribution of the stones for
four different situations, that is, for machines with 1, 2, 3, or 4 weaving tracks, however,
achieving in any of them, the same type of fabric.

Figure 30 - Arrangement of the Stones.

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PADDING AND PROGRAMMING OF INTERLOCK KNIT (JERSEY)

INTERLEAVING BLOCK SCHEDULE

1 Track

2 Tracks

3 Clues
likewise
4 Clues
likewise

ARRANGEMENT OF NEEDLES
1 Track 2 Clues

3 Clues 4 Clues

Note: The red rectangle is the report.

of the fabric.

HORIZONTAL STRIPED

In a jersey-type structure, horizontal stripes can be obtained by assembling the sequence of colors in the
feeders. Thus, if we aim for an effect with horizontal stripes of three rows, such as
As illustrated in the figure below, we used three cones of one color and 3 cones of another color as well.
followed. This sequence repeats:
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Figure 31 – Structure of the Horizontal Striped.

Figure 32 - Illustration of the Horizontal Striped.

VERTICAL STRIPED

The effect of vertical stripes, in a jersey structure, is obtained by feeding the loom alternately with
one color and the other. The needling should consist of two types of needles, arranged in
according to the desired width of the stripes.
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Figure 33 - Structure of the Vertical Striped.

Figure 34 – Illustration of the Right Side and the Reverse Side Respectively.

CHESS

The weaving can be achieved with the correct programming of the needles and feeders of the loom.
Analyzing the figure below, it is observed that the sequence of color feeding of the loom is
similar to the vertical stripes up to feeder 4, followed by the change of the sequence.
The change zone depends on the desired height in chess. The needling, that is, the arrangement
The needles depend on the width of the checkered pattern.

Figure 35 - Structure of the Chess.

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Figure 36 - Illustration of the Right Side of the Chess.

sweatshirt

The fabric texture of sweatshirt is one of the most used in circular knitting, especially in the seasons.
autumn/winter. It is based on the principle of having a thick thread floating on the reverse side, and a
yarn (of an appropriate title for the fineness of the machine) knitting the half knit. This thick yarn on the side
avesso provides a more pleasant touch to the articles and better thermal insulation. Most of the
sweatshirt fabrics undergo a treatment called brushing before they are made,
the process gives the fabric a velvety appearance that provides greater warmth without leaving
that the heat is transferred out of the body. The thick thread used on the reverse side is usually made of
title Ne 8/1, 10/1, 12/1 and 16/1 based on grammage and application. Because it is of very title
different from the normally recommended for fineness 18, 20, or 24 needles/inch, it is
tied in fang.

1. HOODIE 3 X 1

Interlacing BLOCK SCHEDULE

3 Clues

4 Clues

ARRANGEMENT OF NEEDLES
3 Clues 4 Clues
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Figure 37 - Graphical Representation of the Sweatshirt.

PICKET

Mesh structure with a name originated from France. It has an appearance and texture that favors
the polo shirts.

The Piquet texture is achieved with the combination of knit and fang. On the right side of the fabric.
you can see the legs of the mesh with a shift of stitch. And on the reverse side of the fabric, there is
aspect of diamonds in relief or honeycombs and that is widely used as commercial law.

Figure 38 - Polo Shirt.

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Simple Fence

INTERLACING BLOCKS SCHEDULE

2 Tracks 3 Clues 4 Clues

DISPOSITION OF NEEDLES
2 Clues 3 Clues 4 Clues

2. Simple Lacoste Pique

At Piquet Lacoste we have introduced half-knit careers. The original Lacoste is made
with the below texture, on circular looms of fineness 20 needles/inch.

INTERLACEMENT BLOCK SCHEDULING

2 Tracks 3 Clues 4 Clues

DISPOSITION OF NEEDLES
2 Tracks 3 Pistas 4 Clues
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Piquet Lacoste Double

As in Brazil the majority of machines have a fineness of 24 to 28 needles per inch, it was necessary
make some modifications to the texture to compensate for the fact that we are using gauges
thinner and consequently thinner wires.

INTERLACING BLOCK SCHEDULE

2 Tracks

3 Clues

4 Clues

ARRANGEMENT OF NEEDLES
2 Tracks 3 Clues 4 Tracks

GAUFFRÉ (POPULAR FAVINHO)

In the Gauffré or accumulation of fangs, there is a practical limit of 5 - 6 depending on the type of wire that is present.
being worked. In the width of the rapport, we must use an even number of needles so that in the
repetition we can centralize the fang.

The aspect of the right side is that of legs with various sizes of stitches. On the reverse side, we have
feet and heads forming a diamond. The size of this drawing will depend on:

Width: the number of needles that separate the fangs + one needle for the fang.
Height: of the amount of fangs.

The application of these articles basically involves lingerie and baby items.
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Waffle 6 needles

Intertwining BLOCK SCHEDULE

3 Clues

4 Clues

ARRANGEMENT OF NEEDLES
3 Clues 4 Clues

DOUBLE-FRONT ARTICLES

1 Track:
Programming

Unlike single bed machines with 1 track, in double bed looms there is the possibility of
produce differentiated articles.

Although there is only one type of needle on both the cylinder and the disk, it is possible to change the
sequence of disengaging the cylinder or the disk at certain points, that is, removing certain needles.

Even though each block of stones has only 1 track, the mesh stone can be exchanged for a
from fang or does not work. In double front machines, the graphic representation of the disk is made with
the same symbols, but inverted, positioned above those of the cylinder.
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SECRETARY OF PROFESSIONAL AND TECHNICAL EDUCATION
FEDERAL INSTITUTE OF EDUCATION, SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY OF SANTA CATARINA
ARARANGUÁ UNIT

Figure 39 – Representation of the Stones.

MAIN CONNECTIONS - RIB DISPOSITION

The graphic representation of double mesh connections has an additional row of needles,
representing the disk.

RIB 1 x 1

Also called accordion 1 x 1 or cuff 1 x 1, it is the simplest fabric in RIB arrangement. The
stitches are made alternately in each carriage.

accordion

Fabrics derived from the previous one where the knits are made in both frontiers alternately in
groups of 2, 3, etc.

Accordion 2 x 2:

Accordion 6 x 3

ENGLISH COAST
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Obtained according to the figure below. The inversion of alternating careers with fangs on all needles.
it makes the fabric quite voluminous and elastic.

PERLE EDGE

Obtained as shown in the figure below. The meshes that are flanked by fangs will take on the shape.
rounded (pearls).

COTELÊ

Obtained by the suppression of needles in one of the frontiers, which will cause the formation of vertical channels in
fabric corresponding to the needles that do not work. See the figure below.

Figure 40 - Ribbed 3/1

MILAN RIB

Characterized by the formation shown in the figure below:

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SECRETARY OF PROFESSIONAL AND TECHNOLOGICAL EDUCATION
FEDERAL INSTITUTE OF EDUCATION, SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY OF SANTA CATARINA
ARARANGUÁ UNIT

VERTICAL STRIPES

Obtained as shown in the figure below.

Figure 41 – Front and Back respectively.

It is common to use in the front that is not making the striped a selection of needles that requires
of the same number of threads to form the row. This way we will obtain a striped fabric on the right and
with the opposite 'cut'.
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SECRETARY OF PROFESSIONAL AND TECHNICAL EDUCATION
FEDERAL INSTITUTE OF EDUCATION, SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY OF SANTA CATARINA
ARARANGUÁ UNIT

DOUBLE FRONT NEEDLE MACHINE ARTICLES 2 LINES

In these machines, there are two needle tracks both on the cylinder and on the disk. There are machines
that work exclusively in the interlock arrangement, while others work in both
RIB arrangement regarding interlock.

In double front knitting machines with two tracks, the needles are not designated by numbers, but by
letters K (from German kurz = short) and L (lang = long), or simply, like short needles and
longas.

MAIN CONNECTIONS IN RIB 2 TRACKS

Piques

Obtained by distributing inactive needles or fang alternately in even needles or

odd
French Pick

Swiss Piqué
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ARARANGUÁ UNIT

THERMAL

PEARL RIB

MAIN CONNECTIONS IN INTERLOCK 2 TRACKS

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SECRETARY OF PROFESSIONAL AND TECHNICAL EDUCATION
FEDERAL INSTITUTE OF EDUCATION, SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY OF SANTA CATARINA
ARARANGUÁ UNIT

INTERLOCK

DOUBLE FACE 1

DOUBLE FACE 2

ROMA POINT
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SECRETARY OF PROFESSIONAL AND TECHNICAL EDUCATION
FEDERAL INSTITUTE OF EDUCATION, SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY OF SANTA CATARINA
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HORIZONTAL GORGE

ARTICLES IN DOUBLE FRONT MACHINE 4 TRACKS

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SECRETARIAT OF PROFESSIONAL AND TECHNOLOGICAL EDUCATION
FEDERAL INSTITUTE OF EDUCATION, SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY OF SANTA CATARINA
ARARANGUÁ UNIT

The double front-edge machines with 4 tracks on the cylinder are very versatile, as they not only have 4
types of needles can work in both RIB and interlock.

The 2 tracks of the disc and the 4 tracks of the cylinder are programmable by keys, allowing the exchange of
articles much easier and faster. The keys control movable stones. For each clue, there are two
keys: one responsible for the promotion to the fang position and the other for the promotion to the mesh position.

Figure 42 - Double-Needle Loom Blocks.

In this way, the following key positions for the elements are established:

Figure 43 - Work Positions.

There are no standard connections for this machine, precisely due to the great freedom to produce.
Differentiated articles according to specific criteria. Small drawings are usually produced in
2 cores, such as pied-poulet or fishbone, or differentiated structured, like grosgrain
diagonal.

CALCULATIONS

POINT LENGTH (PL or ) ℓ

The point length is defined as the average of the length of wire inserted in each
loop.

The point length or length of the thread at the point is the unit used for the study of
behavior of the fabric, in terms of dimensional stability, which is ultimately the expression of
own final quality of the fabric.
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SECRETARY OF PROFESSIONAL AND TECHNOLOGICAL EDUCATION
FEDERAL INSTITUTE OF EDUCATION, SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY OF SANTA CATARINA
ARARANGUÁ UNIT

Your determination is basically made through two paths. The first is knowing yourself through the use of
devices, the wire consumption per each turn of the machine, dividing the consumption value by turn
by the number of machine needles. The second, in a practical way.

A quick method, which can be exemplified for the case of simple mesh, consists of
prepare a sample of 30 x 30 cm and mark a line along a column with a pen
located 5 cm from the left margin of the sample. Then count 100 columns (excluding the column.
marked) and you mark it in the same way as 101acolumn. The first row is dismantled, removing it the
frizzed by applying appropriate tension and measuring the length of wire between the marks (Width
The measurement is repeated 10 times and the point length calculation is carried out as follows
way

ℓ
CP ( ℓ in cm )=
100

where:
CP ( ℓem cm) = Comprimento de Ponto;
ℓ Arithmetic Mean of the length of the races.

Procedure to calculate the length of the point of the weave meshes:

Prepare a sample measuring 30 x 30 cm;

2. Mark 1 column 50 cm from the left margin;
3. Starting from 1acount 100 columns and mark the 101stacolumn;
4. Unravel the wire of 1acareer, undo the crimp and measure the length;
5. Repeat the previous process until completing the number of 10 careers;
6. Calculate the arithmetic mean of these values;
7. Calculate the Point Length (PL) using the following formula:

(ℓ) Arithmetic Average

CP (ℓ in cm ) =
100 (columns)

DENSITY OF MESH FABRIC (NUMBER OF ROWS AND COLUMNS PER

UNIT OF LENGTH

The density of a fabric is, in principle, the first item to relate to the quality of
even. It is usually expressed in number of rows X columns of mesh in a
determined area. We use, in present days, the cm.2as the most appropriate unit of area for the
expression of this density. The counting, as we already know, is done with the aid of
a thread count lens and a scalpel, counting in different locations of the fabric, obtained by
average of the counts, a more reliable expression of this value. The density of a tissue will undergo
fundamental variations, depending on the opening of the point (mesh size), of the tension of
pulling of the fabric and the title of the thread. The rows (also called courses) are represented.
by the letter C the columns by the letter W.

Procedure to calculate the density (number of rows and columns) of the meshes of
plot:
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SECRETARY OF PROFESSIONAL AND TECHNICAL EDUCATION
FEDERAL INSTITUTE OF EDUCATION, SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY OF SANTA CATARINA
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The samples must be sufficiently large in order to allow counting of the

careers and columns in 10 different places, spaced 1 cm apart in a way that
provide a good representation of the sample.
2. Spread the sample on a flat horizontal surface, removing the folds without stretching;
3. Position the wire counter-lens so that it is parallel or perpendicular to
a column of meshes.
Careers are counted along a column.
The columns are counted in the direction of the rows.
Count the number of rows and columns in 1 cm.
5. Repeat item 4 in nine more different places in the sample, totaling 10.
counts for rows and columns.
6. Calculate the average for rows and columns per 1 cm.

THE TITLE OF THE THREAD

The determination of the wire title is presented as a relatively simple detail since,
according to basic wiring concepts, the wire gauge expresses a relationship of weight X length
from the wire. This data is obtained according to the analysis instructions of a mesh fabric and we can still
obtain it by knowing the weight per area of the fabric. According to the instructions
from the analysis, of the weight in g/m2do tecido se obtém o título do fio, calculando-se o comprimento total
of the wire used in the manufacture of this m2of fabric, using the simplest calculation formula of
English title of the thread, that is:

KC
T
P
=

Where:
K = the constant 0.59 g/m.
Furthermore, according to our methods, having measured the length of the wire at the point and the value of
With Kc and Kw, we can easily calculate the Tex title of the yarn, which corresponds to the weight in grams of
1,000 meters of this wire, using the formula:

P × (ℓ × 10)
Tex =
Ks

Where:
P = weight in g/m2of the fabric;
ℓ point length.
Ks = the value relative to the total density (grids/cm2) obtained by the formula2x S,
ℓ with S being the product
C x W.

Once the Tex title is found, we determine the English title of this thread, simply using
590.5
the relation Ne = .
Tex

FATOR DE COBERTURA (Fc)

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The main determinant of the density of a mesh fabric is the stitch size (length
of the wire contained at a point) which in turn will be a function of what we call: FACTOR OF
COVERAGE in the fabric. This coverage factor is expressed by the result of dividing the root
the square of the title Tex of the thread by the length of the point. Its value is defined as optimal if
finds in the range of 13.5 to 16.5 (15±10%). Thus, a knit fabric, using cotton yarn with
a coverage factor approximately equal to 15 will have a density determined based on
this factor and will also have great chances of achieving, after being properly treated, a
excellent performance in terms of dimensional stability.

A practical example would be:

Wire - No 26/1
Length of wire contained in the point (CP) = 0.31 cm

Remember that the transformation from Ne to Tex is:

590.5
Tex =
No

Tex 22.7
Fc = = = 15.4
CP 31

The coverage factor is very important because it determines the degree of tightness of the fabric, that is,
determine the relationship between the wire gauge and the point length. Thus, as the
the wire diameter increases and the point length decreases, the mesh density increases and,
therefore, it increases the coverage of points (rows and columns).

WIDTH OF THE FABRIC

The circular tear imposes a series of residual stresses on the mesh fabric. However, these forces
are said to be temporary and not causing permanent deformities, since after the process of
There are several other processes that will directly cause a relaxation of the fabric.
cru.

The tear does not directly affect the dimensional properties of a knitted fabric, starting from
principle that the title and the length of the point in weaving are under control and dimensioned
correctly. However, the number of needles in work on a loom directly affects the measurements.
of knitted fabric, that is, it determines the number of stitches in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric, or
thus, the number of columns and consequently its width.

The width of the fabric is determined by the choice of the loom, that is, the width of the knitted fabric is
will vary depending on the diameter of the looms and consequently the number of needles in
work.

L Width of Open Fabric (cm) =

n º of columns/cm
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SECRETARY OF PROFESSIONAL AND TECHNICAL EDUCATION
FEDERAL INSTITUTE OF EDUCATION, SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY OF SANTA CATARINA
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L width of the tubular fabric (cm) =

n º of columns / cm × 2

YIELD

The YIELD of a fabric is commonly referred to in the market as the meter/kg ratio of that fabric.
This yield will then vary, logically, according to density, weight variation factor.
by area, and depending on its width, having a higher yield, a fabric whose width is
smaller, keeping the same density. The calculation to know the yield of a fabric is
In fact, very simple, simply dealing with expressing the relationship, as follows:

1000
=
Re n forgetfulness
LTA × G

MASS PER UNIT AREA OF A FABRIC (GRAMMAGE)

To obtain the weight per unit area of a fabric, it is only necessary to weigh a known area and divide it.
weight per area. Its determination, however, is not that simple, since it becomes
It is necessary to consider the sampling, the cutoff, the accuracy of weighing and measurement, as well as the content.
of the sample's moisture.

Some Roman scales are graduated in g/m2and can be used to measure the
mass per unit area of the samples. Such a sample is usually obtained with a mold of
cut.

For the calculation of mass per unit area (basis weight), the following formula is used:

P weight of the sample

Grammage ( g / m 2 ) =
A (sample area)

L.F.A (WIRE LENGTH PER TURN)

L.F.A is an acronym derived from the French term Langueur de Fil Absorbée, which means
Length of Absorbed Wire. L.F.A is therefore the consumption or length of wire per turn.
do tear.

The length of absorbed wire (L.F.A.) allows for easy characterization of a mesh, in addition to
the regularity of thread absorption between rows of stitches constitutes an essential element of
regularity of the fabric's appearance and also for production forecasting calculations.

L.F.A. (m) = number of needles

× CP

Where:
L.F.A. = Length of wire per round of the machine;
Nº de agulhas = número de agulhas do tear;
CP = Length of Point.
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SECRETARY OF PROFESSIONAL AND TECHNOLOGICAL EDUCATION
FEDERAL INSTITUTE OF EDUCATION, SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY OF SANTA CATARINA
ARARANGUÁ UNIT

PRODUCTION CALCULATIONS

a. Conversion of Titles

Nm = Ne/0.59
Nm = 10.000/Tdtex

b. Hourly Production

. Production in Meters:

RPM × number of ×deals.

60×η
P(m/h) =
carriage per
× nºde
centimeter
fios /carr. 100
×
Where:
RPM = Frequency of machine rotations;
nº de alim. = Número de Alimentadores da Máquina;
η = Efficiency or Machine Efficiency (%);
carr./cm = Fabric Density (Rows/Centimeter);
Number of threads per fabric run.

. Production in Kilograms:

P(m/h) × L × G
P(kg/h) =
1000
Where:
L = Largura do Tecido Aberto (m);
G = Fabric Weight (g/m)2).

. Production in Kilograms direct:

RPM × number of× items

0.59 × L.F.A60
× ×η
P(kg/h) =
No× 1.000