Eqra Knowledge Center
Industrial Engineering & Manufacturing Systems
(IEMS)
Module -4
Production Design
Prepared By-
Akhtar Ferdous Khan Asif
Contact No : 01719253996
E-mail : akhtarferdous@[Link]
Production Design
Garment Production Systems
An apparel production system is an integration of materials handling, production processes,
personnel, and equipments that direct workflow and generate finished products.
Individual System/Make Through/Whole Garment System
In this system the entire garment operation process is done by an individual. From cutting to
packing the individual person performs the entire job. With this production system the operator
would be given a bundle of cut work and would proceed to sew it according to his or her own
method of work. Of necessity, the labour required by this system must be highly skilled and
versatile, a combination which is becoming exceedingly rare and increasingly expensive. This
type of system is effective when a very large variety of garments have to be produced in
extremely small quantities. A typical application would be in the sewing room of a boutique,
which produces its own merchandise.
Whole Garment Production System
There are two types of whole garment production systems:
(1) complete whole garment and
(2) departmental whole garment
Complete Whole Garment
In the whole garment system an individual makes the entire garment from cutting the cloth to
sewing and pressing the garment. The garment is ready for dispatch once the operator completes
the final operation. This type of system is used in few places, which are engaged in custom-
whole sale; they are normally high priced and exclusively made for a particular customer. They
are limited in number and distribution; normally about 10–20 garments are made.
Departmental Whole Garment
The departmental whole garment system is also used by custom wholesale manufacturers as well
as high price or better dress manufacturers. In the departmental whole garment system one
individual does all the work with the equipment allocated to a department. For example on
person does all the cutting work in cutting department, second person does all the sewing work
in sewing department, third person does the pressing and packing work. The workers in this
system may use more than one equipment to complete his/her job.
Advantages
1. This system is more effective when a very large variety of garments have to be produced in
extremely small quantities.
2. In individual piece rate system the operators will do with full involvement. To finish more
pieces, to earn more money.
3. Operator will be specialized in his own working area.
4. As the pay depends upon the complication of the operation, the operator tries to finish the
complicated operation without any difficulties.
5. The work in progress (WIP) is reduced, at a time one cut garment to one operator and so the
amount as inventory is reduced.
Disadvantages
1. Highly skilled labours are used, so the cost of labour is high.
2. The operator is more concerned on the number of pieces finished rather than the quality of
work.
3. Productivity is less due to lack of specialization.
4. For long run/bulk quantity of same style is not effective in this system.
Group System
This is a development of the individual system, with the difference that the operators specialize
in one major component and sew it from beginning to end. For example, an operator specializing
in backs would assemble the back and yoke, label attaching, etc., and performs all the operations
required to finish that particular component.
Advantages
1. As the labour of all levels, i.e. semi-skilled, skilled, trainee, can be used in this system, the
labour cost is less compared to individual system.
2. Productivity is higher compare to individual system, because of use of special machine and all
types of labour.
3. This system is very efficient for producing a variety of styles in reasonable quantities.
4. Automation and specialization can be done.
5. Absenteeism and machine breakdown problems will not cause serious problems
Disadvantages
1. All the operators are involved in the work to maintain the quality of garment.
2. Even though productivity is high still the highly skilled operators required to perform simple
operation within the section.
3. Group of people are involved in each section, so we require more WIP which increases the
inventory cost.
4. As this is not a bundling system, there are more chances of shade and size variation; hence
quality and production are affected.
Progressive Bundle Synchro Straight Line System – Batch System
As the name suggests, this system is based on a synchronized flow of work through each stage of
producing a garment. Time-synchronization is the most important factor of this system because
the flow of work cannot be synchronized if there are considerable variations in the standard
times allowed for all the operations performed on the line. For example, if one operation has a
value of 1.5 minutes then all the other operations in the line must have the same, or a very close,
value. The manipulation required to balance the standard time for each operator can sometimes
lead to illogical combinations of whole or part operations which are not always conducive to the
overall efficiency of individual operators.
To be effective, this system requires Volume production • Accurate line balancing • Skilled
supervision • Reserve operators • Reserve machinery and equipment
Advantages
1. Labours of all levels, i.e., unskilled, skilled, semi-skilled labours, are involved in this system
where the operations are broken into small simple operation. Hence the cost of labour is very
cheap.
2. Here the quantity of each component is checked during the individual operation itself, so the
quality is good.
3. The components are moved in bundles from one operation to next operation, so there is less
chance for confusion like, lot mix-up, shade variation, size variation, etc.
4. Specialization and rhythm of operation increases productivity.
5. As the WIP is high in this system, it is a stable system. Because of the buffer, the breakdown,
absenteeism, balancing of line, change of style can be easily managed.
6. An effective production control system and quality control system can be implemented. (a)
Time study, method study techniques; (b) Operator training programme; (c) Use of material
handling equipments, such as centre table, chute, conveyor, trolley, bins, etc.
7. Bundle tracking is possible, so identifying and solving the problems becomes easy
Disadvantages
1. Balancing the line is difficult and this problem is solved by effective supervisor.
2. Proper maintenance of equipment and machinery is needed.
3. Proper planning is required for each batch and for each style, which takes lot of time.
4. Improper planning causes labour turnover, poor quality, less production, etc.
5. Increase in WIP in each section increases the inventory cost.
6. Planned and proper layout should be made to make the system effective, i.e. smooth flow of
material.
7. Variety of styles, less quantity is not effective in this system.
8. Shuttle operators and utility operators are needed in every batch to balance the line effectively.
Unit Production System (UPS)
The essential feature of this type of system is as follows: 1. The unit of production is a single
garment and not in bundles. 2. The garment components are automatically transported from work
station to work station according to a pre-determined sequence. 3. The work stations are so
constructed that the components are presented as close as possible to the operator’s left hand in
order to reduce the amount of movement required to grasp and position and component to be
sewn.
Advantages
1. Bundle handling is completely eliminated. 2. The time involved in the pickup and disposal is
reduced to minimum. 3. Output is automatically recorded, hence eliminates the operator to
register the work. 4. The computerized systems automatically balance the work between
stations. 5. Up to 40 styles can be produced simultaneously on one system.
Disadvantages
1. Unit production system requires high investments.
2. The payback period of the investment takes long time.
3. Proper planning requires being effective.
Quick Response Sewing System/ Cellular Manufacturing System:
Specially when orders for individual styles were in small lots. Each work station is equipped
with two or four machines and the operator takes the garment through the required operations,
including pressing, before it is transported to the next work station.
Layout Objectives
1. First, set the locations of the aisles and the entry and exit points for materials.
2. Remember that the work area is a three-dimensional space. Use the entire space for greatest
efficiency.
3. Consider the atmosphere and comfort of the working environment.
4. Clearly define the main flow (body).
5. When the manufactured product changes, it may be necessary to change the layout. Be sure to
make the layout flexible and easily adaptable to new needs.
6. Keep it simple so that the process can be easily managed and viewed.
7. Avoid moving materials and goods backwards on the line or across another path. Arrange the
equipment so that materials and goods are transported to the shortest possible distance and as
few times as possible. So that the operators do not need to transport goods, arrange transportation
paths to follow the flow of production.
8. Use work table extensions and holding tables to smooth the flow.
Different Types of Layout:
(1) Flow forward layout
Materials are taken from a position behind and to the left of each operator, who then places the
processed good forward on the table for the next operator. This method is suited to large
production lots where each operator uses few pieces of equipment
(2) Side-to-side flow
Goods flow from left to right or right to left in this model. This layout permits the operator to
move more quickly while operating on several machines at a time
Some Typical Layouts Depend On the Map of the Factory Building and The
Production Systems
Designing the Layout
(1) Prepare a plan view of the production area. Indicate the location of permanent fixtures,
including walls, pillars, exits and entrances, presses, and air conditioning packages. Set the scale
according to the size of the factory. In general, a scale of 1:50 or 1:100 is suitable.
(2) Using construction paper or paper board, prepare templates for the equipment and tables to be
placed.
(3) Create enough templates for all equipments used (refer to the flow chart), and record on the
templates the type of machine and the location code
(4) Arrange the templates on the plan view in their approximate locations. At this stage don’t
worry about walls and pillars. Place the pieces in what seems to be the ideal arrangement.
First arrange the equipment for the assembly processes, and then arrange the equipment
for the parts processes.
(5) Modify the layout according to the site limitations, including walls, pillars, and entry and exit
locations for materials and finished goods. Make sure sufficient work space is allowed for the
operators and helpers. If equipment is spaced out too far, excessive time is required for
transportation. Keep the material tables and side tables to the minimum required for the task.
The aisles should be wide enough to not hinder the movement of people or goods.
(6) When the final layout is determined, fasten the templates in place with glue or tape. This
completes the factory layout Note that various other methods can also be used. For example, the
plan view could be drawn on a white board and the templates attached to magnets. This makes it
easy to modify the layout later, and the templates can be easily moved so that the plan will
always reflect the latest layout
Cost Analysis of Production System
Factors Affecting Garments Costing
Fabrication,
Size specification,
Fabric consumption,
Fabric color,
CM (Cost of making),
Trimmings and Accessories,
Print,
Embroidery,
Wash,
Order quantity,
Test requirement,
Inspection,
GSP,
L/C payment term,
Commercial cost,
Profit,
Shipment date.
Garment Costing
1. Fabric consumption: 0.8 yards per garment.
2. Fabric wastage allowance 3%
3. Fabric price: $2.7per yard.
4. Total charges for insurance & fright $ 0.3 (per yard). Fabric is being ordered from Hong
Kong.
5. Finance charges for fabric purchasing is 15%.
6. Trim cost: $ 1.5 per garment (excluding thread cost).
7. 5000 meter of thread cones being used for sewing, 210 meters of threads needed for a garment
and the price of a thread cone is $6.
8. Garment SMV is 40.
9. Labor rate: the selling price of a minute is $ 0.03
Garment Costing Sheet