5.

NECKS
Y
MANGAS

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILES, CLOTHING, AND LEATHER

HIGHER CYCLE OF PATTERNMAKING AND FASHION

 5. Collars and sleeves

INDEX.

NECKS

. Definition and types of neckline

 Types of neckline
. Outline of the different types of necklines
 Base pattern
 Cut to the box
 Boat neckline
 Round neckline
 V-neck
 Square neckline
 U-shaped neckline
 Heart neckline
 Neckline with waves
. Definition and part of necks
 Parts of a neck
. Classification of collars
 Flat collar
 High or raised collar
 Turned collar
. Hoods

MANGAS

. Definition and types of sleeves

 The fitted sleeves
 The integrated sleeves part of the body
 Tipos de mangas
. Terminology
 Location of the elbow line and bleed line on the sleeve
 Location of the elbow drop
. Cuffs and sleeve endings
. Openings and sleeves trims
 Knight's tapestry
 Finished in a clamp shape
 Opening with bias
 Opening with a view
. Base pattern. Cup according to types of garment
. Sleeve patterns
 Manga for sport body
 Manga with a clamp on the elbow I
 Manga with clamp in the elbow II
 Manga with two sheets with a clip at the elbow

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 5. Collars and sleeves

 Uneven two-sheet sleeve with elbow clip

 Elbow type manga
 The expansions of the sleeve
 Tuning of the bass in short sleeves
 Manga lantern
 Mango ham
 Manga with a low flight
 Fluffy mango in the cup
 Bell-shaped manga
 Fantasy manga. Chimney manga
 Manga with central seam
 Sleeve with folds at the cup. Ham sleeve
 Manga with tab
 Butterfly manga
 Japanese manga style
 Straight manga
 Body with sleeve
 Mixed mangas
 Japanese manga
 Train sleeve
 Raglan manga over tailored sleeve with a seam in the middle

ANNEXES

. Other types of necklines

. Other types of collars
. Pattern making for collars and hoods according to the Amador system
. Draped
. Design and manufacturing of collars
. Other types of sleeves
 Fantasy mangas
. Other sleeve patterns

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DEFINITION AND TYPES OF NECKLINES

Neckline: The neckline of a garment is the edge that surrounds the neck.

Low-cut garment: A women's body garment that shows a low neckline or has a particular shape.
pronounced.

Depth of neckline: Very pronounced on the chest or front of the garment.

Neckline width: When it starts to separate from the neck (over the shoulder).

TYPES OF SAILS

. At the box. Round, very close to the base of the neck.

. From the boat. Very wide and shallow, almost to the box, showing part of the shoulders and
following the shape of the collarbones.
. In peak or in point. In the shape of a V
. Round. The one that is parallel to the base of the neck with a more or less pronounced curve.
. Square or rectangular. The edge forms a quadrilateral.
. In the shape of a U
. Empire. Deep and round neckline that exposes the shoulders, reaching up to the
extreme of the scapula.
. In the shape of a heart.
. Of waves.

to the cashier

boat

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at the tip or point

round

square

in the shape of a U

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empire

heart

of waves

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DELINEATION OF THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF NECKLINES

BASE PATTERN

Necklines can be symmetrical or asymmetrical.

In the first case, we will work with half of the front or back pattern, and in the second case, we
it will trace the shape with the front or full back.

When drawing the neckline, we will consider if the garment will be open at that point; if not,
we need to check if the garment's neckline fits over the head, if not it will be necessary
increase the size of the neckline or include some type of opening, placket, zipper, etc. in the pattern.

Whenwestarttomakethetransformationofthenecklineinthepattern,wewillnoterasetheneckline.
fromthebasepattern,asitwillserveasareferencefordrawingthewidthanddepthofit.

To carry out any transformation, we will join the front and back at the shoulders and draw the
desired neckline.

If it has darts, we will mark them parallel to the neckline (approximately 3 - 4 cm).

In the case of drawing a very wide neckline on a sleeveless pattern, the view will be fully traced, that is,
The neckline and armhole view wil be in one piece. It wil be traced or not separately when the distance between the
Sisa-to-shoulderandneckline-to-shoulderpointsshouldbegreaterthan8or9cm(dependingonthewidthoftheview).

Necklinelimits.

When creating a pattern, we must control what the neckline will leave visible, so we recommend drawing on
the base pattern is a circle with the center at the vertex of the chest clamp whose radius is 1 cm smaller than
the distance from that vertex to the center of the forward.

All the transformations shown are indicative, as they will be carried out according to the model.

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V-neck to the box

You will only need to join both parts of the neckline, front and back, at the shoulders to
check the continuity of lines and correct it if necessary. If a tighter fit is not desired, it can be
delay between 0.5 and 1 cm all around or just in the front.

VIEW

boat neckline

Unlike the previous one, this one does not have depth, but it separates quite a bit from the neck at the height of the
shoulder. We must maintain a fixed shoulder measurement (for example 2.5) that wil be marked from the
extreme of the shoulder inward. In this type of neckline, the tension dart is usually traced. Once
trace the clamp, close it, refine and smooth the entry of it.

To avoid runaway situations

in the neckline.

1.5 cm

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Round neck

Add a depth of 11 cm and scoop out 3 cm at the shoulder, the tension pinch will be traced in the direction of the
forward scoop (base).

V-neck

It will bend [Link] tension clamp will be drawn toward the neckline of the front (base).

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SQUARE NECKLINE

In the square neckline that we want to make, we aim for a depth of 9 cm.

We draw a perpendicular to the spine

Atotal width or breadth of 16 cm

B–C8 cm

In the wide necklines to prevent them from drooping, we tensioned by

middle of a clamp of 0.7 (C– C') that we will then close by increasing
its value to the chest.
G
F
From line C' –B we draw a perpendicular to the shoulder (point E).
D E
We take the distance D–E and apply half of it from F–G–
A
Deepening the back neckline to achieve a line
continued with that of forward.
B C'
C

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U-shaped neckline

HEART NECKLINE

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WAVY NECKLINE

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DEFINITION AND PARTS OF NECKS

Collar: It is the piece, usually made of fabric, that is attached to the neckline of a garment.

PARTS OF A NECK

. Considering that the shape of a neck is practically a rectangle, we can name each
one of its sides in the following way:
 [Link].
 Neckline seam. It is the part where the collar joins the neckline.
 Point. It is the union of the edge with the neckline seam and varies according to the type of collar.
model and fashion.
 Center line. It is the line that divides the neck into two parts, usually symmetrical.
It can be positioned in the center-back or in the center-forward.

POINT

EDGE

NECKLINE SEAM

. Considering the neck as a plane, we can divide it into two parts:

 Pie. It is the part of the neck that goes up, that is to say, it makes the neck rise surrounding.
the person's neck.
 [Link]'sthepartoftheneckthatfalls.

These two parts are separated by the break line, which is where the neck bends.
A line can be clearly defined by a seam or it can be imaginary. There are many
break degrees: high, low, flat medium, and raised. The break line is also referred to
denomination of fold, back or bent.

PALA
BREAK
PIE

. Collar tab or tab. Upper part, not visible of the shirt collar that joins the neckline and that
It ends where the shovel begins. It would also be referred to as a type of collar.

. Flap. Edge of the front that breaks, showing the false orview and joins the neck by means of
sewing.

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CLASSIFICATION OF NECKS

The collars can be divided into:

. Flat or semi-flat collar

. High collar or raised
. Turtleneck

FLAT COLLAR

The deeper the inner curve of the neck and the more it aligns with the line of the inner neckline.
Theflatterthegarment,themoreitwil [Link].

This mode has very little comeback because it cuts along the thread and the inner edge follows the same curve as
the neckline of the garment.

In the sewing, we would use bias, facings, and piping to cover the seam.

The half-planes would have a bit of a break.

They can be one or two sheets and one or two pieces.

Types of flat collar

. [Link]
. Schoolgirl. Wider than the baby and in one piece.
. [Link].
. [Link].
. From the cape. Very wide collar that falls down over the shoulders.
. From the almilla. Patterns that are sewn to a kind of yoke or inner shirt.

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Drafting

Flat collars can be traced directly or over the front and back patterns.
joined by the shoulders totally or partially.

 Direct Trace. Starting from a rectangle that will be divided and opened. Depending on the
The degree of opening we give it will be more or less flat.

 Tracing on the pattern. Joining the front and back patterns at the shoulders.
neckline-shoulder. Separating the shoulders by the armhole-shoulder point, the more they open up
wider and broader they will be, but they will still remain flat. Putting on the shoulders the
sisa point–shoulder, we will be making a break. In this outline, we can give it the same
shape of the neckline or change it, if so we will also be giving a break.

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Neckline or neckline outline when going to the box

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Flat collar without variation in the collar box. Baby collar

 The front and back are joined at the shoulder.

 The neck is drawn on the patterns, giving it the width we desire.
 The neckline will be traced from the center front to the center back.
 The base of the neck will have the same shape as the neckline.
 The tips of the neck are rounded to taste.
 It would be cut on the bias. The neckline is finished with a bias binding to prevent it from being visible.
sewing.
 When industrializing, a seam allowance is left all around except at the base.

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Baby neck

1–2Half of neckline outline –1 cm.

3 Midpoint of point 1–2

They lower approximately 3 cm.

It is squared at points 1 and 2 resulting in points 6 and 7.

1 3 2

6 7

5
Measure the neck at points 1–6, 2–7, 4–5 (it ranges between 5 and 9 cm)

Baby collar. Another way to make it

The tracing would be done just like the half-circle skirt.

1–21/3 of the neckline contour or 2/3 of the

semi-perimeter of the neckline 3 7
1
4 Half of point 2 - 3

4–5 Neck Width

2 5

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Flat collar with neck box variation

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Semi-flat collar without variation in neck box

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Baby collar. Semi-flat

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Baby collar. Semi-flat

 We start from a rectangle, which will have from 1 to 2 the measurement of the semicircumference of the neckline and from 2 to
3 the width of the collar we desire.
 We will divide the rectangle into as many parts as we wish and open according to the width that
we want to give you.
 This collar will be cut on the bias.

1 2

Schoolgirl collar. Semi-flat

 It is done the same as the previous one, starting from the half-circle skirt, applying half of the
cleavage.
 The only change we made is that from point 3 to 8, we raised it by 1 cm to form the break.
this part will be for the forward and point 2 will be the center of the back.
 The line 2–8 is without rounding, since we will take out the neck in one piece.

83 7
1

3
2 5

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HIGH OR RAISED NECK

The shape of this neck is straight or slightly curved. It is very simple and can take on very
diverse.

It does not bend at its break line, it lacks one, but instead stands up. This type of collar can
to have different finishes on the outer edge, or short blades.

Initslayout,accordingtothemodel,therewil beacrossing,theywil gototheedgeorequidistantfromthecenter,withameasurement

equaltoorapproximatetothetotalcrossingofthegarment.

Types of high or raised collars

. Mao. Slightly high in a strip shape and without crossing.

. [Link].
. Funnel. It is connected to the striker and narrows gradually.
. Strap. Narrow, slightly curved and crossed.
. [Link],whoseshortbladespointtowardstheshoulders.

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Drawing

This type of collar starts from a rectangle. We will transform it into the desired shape.
slightly curved, height, straight, crossing, etc.

We will place some decoration or finish on the outer edge or some brief paddle as in the case of the
bow tie collar.

In this case of one-piece necklines with the body, we will attach the strip to the front pattern and
backside and transformations to give it the desired shape. Another way to do it would be to narrow it.
the neck with clamps so that it adjusts to the neck.

Collar with crossover

A–B ½ of the neckline perimeter (neckline)

B–C Cross from the forward
C–D They increase from 1.5 to 2.0 cm depending on the model, (Note.- the higher this point is raised, the more

(stuck to the neck).

A–E = D–FDesired neck width
E– E’ They are lowered by 0.5 cm (optional)

G Approximately half the distance A–C

F
E
D It is

C B 6 A

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Non-crisscross collar

A–B ½ of the neck perimeter (neckline)

B–C They increase from 1.5 to 2.0 cm according to the model.

A–E = C - D Desired neck width

F Approximately ½ of the distance A - B

D
E
C

B F A

Mao collar

1-2 We will place half of the neckline perimeter (without crossing)

2–3 Desired neck width
Round tip
This type of collar would go placed up to the center of the front or a few centimeters less.

1 2

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One-piece bow tie collar

1–2 ½ of the neck perimeter (neckline)

Square point 2 by line 1 - 2
2–3 = 1 - 4 1/10 of neck perimeter (neckline) (the width of the strap is usually added plus 2 or 5
mm)
5 0.5 of 1 - 2
6 ½ of 3–4
Join 6–5 and extend upwards finding 13
3–7 2 cm. Square 7–7' by line 3–4
7– 7’ 0.2 cm and to square
Join 2–7 and extend until touching the straight line of 7, locating 8.
5– 5' 0.5 cm. Join 8-5' according to design
2–9 = 1–10 equals 1–4 minus 1 cm
10-9 Straight line
9–11 2 cm (front cross)
12 ½ of 11–13
12–14 1/10 of 11–13
13–15 ½ of 12–14. Draw 11–14–15 down to 10, smoothing at 14 and 15.

14
15
11 10
9 12 13
2 1
5 5'
7
3 7' 8 4
6

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TURNED COLLAR

The shape of the turtleneck can range from completely straight to constituting a curve opposite to that of the
garment.

This type of collar gently rises from the neckline seam and then falls back down, thus creating a
edge turned back all around.

Any collar shaped with a pronounced turn around the neckline is considered a turned collar.

Usually, the top part of one piece is cut off and the bottom part of two.

Types of turtleneck

. [Link]:
 Rectos,
 Concave and
 Convex.

[Link].

. Shirt dress. In one piece or in two. A one-piece would have the yoke and the strap incorporated into it. From
two, it would be the blade and on the other hand the strap that wil be joined by means of the seam. The strap would carry
cross.
. [Link].
 Smoking. The striker wears it peak and goes all in with a lapel.
 With flap. Front edge that folds back to show the view in the
point where it joins the neck.
 Sailor. Square and large collar that hangs over the front and the back.
 Napoleon.

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Sailor collar. semi-flat

 To make this neck, we join the front and back at the shoulders, assembling them around.
from 1 cm (depending on the break we want), from the shoulder-armhole point.
 Next, we mark on the back the length and width of the neck that we want,
squaring in the center of it.
 In the front, we will mark the depth of the neckline that we desire, then joining this
point with the back.

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Fake smoking collar

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Transformable or casual collar

1–2 We will place half of the neckline perimeter

1–3 The desired measure will be applied, according to design. Approximately ¼ of 1–2
3–4 Approximately between 2 and 3 cm
6 Half points 5 and 3
The striped space shows us the foot of the neck.

2 1

5 6 3

Shirt collar for lapel

 Make a simple shirt collar.

 Lower from C– C’ 1 cm in a straight line
 Join C’, F and D’ with a smooth curve.
 Square in C' so that connecting C' - A' is equal to C - A
 Draw another perpendicular connecting A’ –E to create an edge.
 A' - C' will be the new centerline, making the collar edge larger.
while the neckline stitching continues to measure the same.

A E B
A'

C D'
F D
C'

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Scarf collar (bias)

 It is made from a rectangle with the neckline measurement minus 2 cm, to be able to tie.
the lazada.
 Extend the necessary centimeters to make that bow, it is essential that it is cut.
the beast.

Bow collar (bias to thread)

40.00
1/2 NECKLINE

CENTER CENTER
BACK FORWARD

STITCHED INSIDE
OPEN
(UNSEWN)

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Lapel collar I

1–3 Points that form the neckline, it does not have to be the base neckline, it can be lowered.
4 Cross points on the chest line1
1–5 2 cm is removed, a flap bend is formed by joining to 4, it extends upwards, to
crossingwithanecklinegivesus9points
6–7 Point 3 extends outward with the flap shape we want to give. It is squared.
this point on line 5-4 when crossing with 3 gives point 7, connects to 4
6–8 Apoint6issquaredandthemeasure6-7isapplied,itisjoinedto4,itisjoinedwithshapeto9withthe
misma forma 7–9 (según diseño)
5–10 The measurement 1–2 plus 2 cm is squared.
10-11 2 cm, it is squared to line 1–2 and from there it joins with shape to 9
10–12 4 cm or to taste, square it up to line 1-2 and from there shape the neck (the section
from the back neckline better parallel).
8-13 Apply 2.5 cm or to your liking (Crac)
13–14 Measure 8–13 is applied.
In 12 increase 0.3 to set to 11 11
12–14 10 12
Full collar or with central seam
1–15 Shoulder width ≈6 cm
16-17 View width in low ≈ 12 cm

The line 1–9–3–7 may vary according to design. 2 1

5
15

9
3
7

14
6 13

views

16 17

1
Point 4 depends on trends and design. (wider, more pointed, etc.)

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Lapel collar II

Tuned neck

Once the collar is adjusted and marked on the inside of the front, proceed as follows:

13–16 They advance 2.5 cm. They correspond to the 'neck' foot, a line is drawn.
break
16–17 The measure 13–16, a line is drawn parallel to 16–19
16-19 The back neckline measurement is applied.
19–20 Neck height to taste (4 cm)
21 Point where the lapel break and the neckline line intersect
22 Location of point 22 to taste.
You need to leave 1 cm all around the neck, for sewing, as the silhouette is marked in
the drawing corresponds to the neck once finished, for better orientation.
20-23 0.3 cm to be defined at 18!
Whole neck or with central seam 18 19 23
20

1 0
16 13
17

ABOUT - NECK

14
exterior 21

15
NECK

Interior
It is usually made of cloth. 22

since it settles NECK PIECE

better the jacket

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Napoleon collar

3–5 2 cm
6–4 2 cm
1–7 measure 1–2 plus 2 cm
1–8 2 cm
7-9 2cmandjoins8and9
First, the neck is drawn on the pattern, then the measurements are transferred.
7–10 The square is at point 7, the neck width is applied as desired.
10–11 It rises 1 cm, it joins point 9.
The shape of the neckline that we have drawn on the stop from 10–11 to 5.

11
10
7 9

2 1
8

Breaking line

5 3

6 4

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Smoking collar

3-4 2.5cmaretakenoutforcrossing.
5-6 2.5cmistakenforcrossing,itisjoinedto4.
1–6 Abreakisdrawnpassingthrough1-6,itisprolonged.
1–7 Themeasure1–2plus2cmisapplied.
1–8 2 cm are applied
7–9 Se aplican 2 cm y se une a 8
7-10 Square point 7 and apply the neck width to taste (6 or 7 cm).
It joins point 6 with form
10-11 It rises 1 cm and joins 9.

11
10
7
9
Note: The shawl collar is
similar to Napoleon, but in
place to end at peak
do it in a rounded way. 1
2
8

6 5

4 3

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Italian collar

A2.5cmcrossismade.
1-3 These two points come together to form a break, it extends upwards.
1–4 Themeasure1–2plus2cmisapplied.
4-5 6cmareapplied,itissquaredoff.
3–6 Square point 3 on the break line in line 5 gives point 6.
6–7 5cm are removed
8 At the midpoint of points 5–6
1–9 2 cm are applied
4–10 Apply 2 cm. It joins at point 9
5–11 It rises 1 cm
It is shaped like a neck

11
5
4

10

8
1
2

7
6 3

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Hoods

HANDBRAKE OF TRENCH I

1–2 3/10 of the chest plus 10 cm. Square.

3 Atthehalfwaypointof1–[Link].
3–4 4/10 of the measure 1–2.
2–5 1/6 of the neck + 1 cm. It extends past 4. In line 1 it gives point 6.
5–7 Take out 2 cm. Join it to 4.
4-8 The measurement or shape 1–4 is moved to line 4–6.
8–9 1cmistakenoutandjoinedintheshapeof4.
1–10 ½ of the neck plus 2.5 cm. Square by giving point 11.
10-12 5 cm are cut. It is joined to 11 extending.
12–13 3cmistaken.Itisjoinedto9.
11–14 ½ofthemeasurement5–11.Itjoinsto2.
14–15 3cmaretakenout.Itisjoinedinshapeto2.Itisextendedtoshape15-2.
15–16 Theyrise3cm.Itconnectsinshapeto11and13.

8 9
LOMO
13 10
6 1
12

4 3

Lomo

11 2
7 5

16
14
15

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HOOD OF TRENCH II

1–2 20 cm.
2–3 1/10ofthechest+5cm.
1–4 5 cm.
3–5 Back and front neckline measurement.
2–6 Measure 3–5. Joins to 4.
7 Atthehalfwaypointof6–4.

7-8 2cmaretakenout.
4-9 Lowered by 2 cm. It joins in shape 6–8–9–1.
5–10 Theydecreaseby4cm.Itcombinesinshapeto3.

4 1
9

8
7

6 2

5 3

10

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HOOD

1–2 30 cm.
2–3 1/10 of chest + 5 cm.
1–4 Measure of 1–2
5 Atthehalfwaymarkof1–4

6 Atthehalfwaypointof1–2.Itjoinswith5

7 Halfof5-6.Joinsto1
8 Halfof7–1.
4–9 They go down 2 cm.
3–10 Same as 1–4.
2-11 It enters 1 cm
2–12 1/5 of the chest + 3 cm
12-13 2–12 + 1 cm
12–14/12–15 1.5 cm
15–17/14–16 They drop 3.5 cm
16-18 Front neckline measurement

Note: it looks very good when made with a central seam.

4 5 1
9 8

6
13

14 15 2
12 11

16 17

3
10 18

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MODEL OF WOMEN'S 'PARKA' WITH JAPANESE SLEEVE AND HOOD

Marquense pockets according to model or personal criteria and taste, since these garments allow
always practical news.

This model, as is common in these garments, will have an inner zipper. At the waist, it
will place a rubber band or cord.

DRAWING STANDARDS

This model goes and, as previously indicated, with a one-piece hood at the front.
acting as a neck. For the pattern drafting, proceed as indicated below.

Extend the lines of the forward E–VyD–I, up to 1 and 2.

V–1 32 cm
1–2 32 cm
Join1with2
J–3 1 cm
1–4 2 cm
By the line J–E, square the point LL up to 11
LL–123.5 cm
Draw the curved line 4–3–12 (as shown in the drawing)
2–5 9 cm
5–6 4 cm
1-8 1 cm
8–9 the measure of the back neckline Aa7, excluding its seam.

The remaining distance from 9 to K will be a clamp.

Both in the clamp and around the hood, seams should be left, except in the part
front that can be left in fabric to serve as a view and in combination with the inner lining.

Mark everything as in the drawing.

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 5. Collars and sleeves

1 2

5 6

J 9 I
V
3 K 8

12

11 LL

E D

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 5. Collars and sleeves

HOOD

The pattern of this hood is made on the front and back of the garment.

Mount the shoulder of the sword over the front by 3.5 cm.

A–B 35 cm. Draw a right angle A–B–C.

B–C 32 cm
C– C’ 8 cm. Perpendicular to AC–B
UnirB– C' with a straight line
B–B` 32 cm
A–D 20 cm
B– D’ 15 cm
UnirD– D’yB’ –According to layout.

D'

C
B'
C'
E

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 5. Collars and sleeves

LOOSE HOOD

First, the measurement of the back and front neckline will be taken, discounting the
seams.

Squaring A–B–C
A–1 33 cm
1–B 9 cm. Square the points 1 and B
1–2 5 cm
2–3 the measured found of the neckline, plus 2 cm
A–4 the same distance from B to 3
4–C 7 cm
3–5 3 cm. Join with the straight line 5 and C
3–7 10 cm
7–8 3 cm. Draw the curve as indicated from 2 to 3

From point 2 to the clamp, the measurement of the back neckline excluding the shoulder seam plus
0.75 cm.

From point 3 to the pin, the measurement of the front neck plus 1 cm

The clamp will be 6 cm long and will be sewn by the mark without cutting.

C–6 3.5 cm
A–9yA–107 cm

Mark yourself all of

compliance with the drawing.
6 C
Seams should be left
in its outline, except in
the front part from 6 to 3, 5
where about 6 will be left 3
gender cm for folding and 4
that makes it a sight.

This hood can be

incorporated into the trench or 8
coat by means of 7
buttonhole below the
neck, I mean it's a
removable hood, and
wider than the hood 9
fix. 2

B 1 10 A

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 5. Collars and sleeves

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 5. Collars and sleeves

DEFINITION AND TYPES OF SLEEVES

Part of the dress where the arm goes in.

Sleeves have always been at the focal point of fashion throughout history and have been used
as a means to change the silhouette and line of the dress. In 1880, the dominant silhouette was the sleeve–
sleeve, a bulging cuff at the shoulder and tight at the forearm and wrist. In the following 10
Over the years, the volume of the sleeve went from moderate to very voluminous and overloaded. In 1920, the sleeve became
It was simplified to the maximum, the dropped shoulder and the tucks were widely used. By 1940, the sleeve was simple.
but shoulder pads were used, from tailored types to exaggerated ones and very square shoulders. They
returned to natural shoulders in the 1950s. This gave a smooth and natural line to the shoulders. Since
So until today, the very important line of sleeves and shoulders changes in one way or another.

Sleeves are classified into two main groups: fitted, seemingly cut and sewn in the
remains of the body, and those that are part of the bodice as an extension of it.

THE ATTACHED SLEEVES

Anormal fitted sleeve should cover, without tightness, the top of the shoulder and the armpit.
the sleeve should not be loose, because the arm will look thicker and if it is too tight
it will make arm movement difficult and the fabric will pull, which will ultimately lead to tearing. The upper curve of
the sleeve should have a clearance of 2 to 3 cm. This will allow it to fit into the armhole.
comfort, without wrinkling.

The seam under the arm should feel comfortable without pulling. If the garment is going to be worn over others, the
The sleeve hole should be enlarged, especially under the arm, so that it does not pull or bother.

The designer may wish to vary the shape of the opening, which will lead to the transformation of the part.
upper part of the sleeve, to adapt it to the new shape. This part of the dress can have a large
variety of changes.

. Theshoulderpads.

The shape of the shoulders changes spectacularly and with it the silhouette of the dress with the
shoulder pads, which raise and widen the area of sleeves and shoulders. The shape of the shoulder pad
is determined by the style of the sleeve. The fitted sleeve requires a shoulder pad with an edge.
the front, while the dolman or Japanese one should be rounded and slightly covering the
upper part of the arm. The correct shoulder pad wil enhance the shape of the sleeve and wil give it
naturalness.

The size of the shoulder pad depends on the effect that the designer wishes to achieve. Some shoulder pads
small ones favor many figures. The width of the shoulders balances the width of the hips and
makes the person look slimmer. Not too exaggerated shoulder pads also help.
make the person look taller.

The pattern of sleeves to accommodate shoulder pads varies slightly to fit a larger
Shoulder height, the armhole should also be lowered.

. Thefittedtwo-piecesleeve.

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 5. Collars and sleeves

 The sleeve with seam from the shoulder.

This two-piece sleeve has the normal seam under the arm and another that goes from the
Shoulder seam to the center of the wrist. It is only used as decoration or for a design.
specific that requires this type of sewing.

 The two-piece tailored sleeve, with a panel under the arm.

The tailor-made two-piece sleeve does not have a seam under the arm; instead, there is a panel or
piece that covers the area under the arm. This sleeve is very suitable for coats and
jackets made with thick fabrics because the sleeve can be placed more comfortably and
the elbow clamp can be removed.
The piece must be narrow enough so that the seams are not noticeable.
the front as from the back.

SLEEVES INCORPORATING PART OF THE BODY

. Theraglansleeve

This type of sleeve incorporates a part of the body that can vary in shape and width. It
It is called a sleeve because it has a seam under the arm like the attached sleeve and covers the
shoulder to the neck and extends to the arm. The raglan sleeve is very suitable for the
designs with high collars and many variations can be made in the cut of the union of the part
superior of the sleeve with the lower part of the body. Other variations of sleeves that form
part of the bust are the Japanese and the dolman. These sleeves also have a great variety of
possible variations and shapes, from fitted to the arm for knitted fabrics, to very loose ones
under the arm for fantasy line dresses.

Generally, the sleeves are finished with cuffs or decorative details that should be designed.
complementing the rest of the dress.

The variations of cuffs can be: with buttonholes, zipper, with cut and bias edge,
buttons and placket, shirt-style cuffs, gathered with elastic, with or without ruffles, turned in different
forms, and sleeves of different shapes and widths, draped, etc.

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 5. Collars and sleeves

TYPES OF SLEEVES

By its shape

. Puffy. Hollow and swollen from the shoulder seam.

. Flared. In a flared shape, widening as it approaches the cuff.
. Japanese. Which is part of and is an extension of the body, with or without stitching at the shoulder.
. Bat. Similar to the Japanese one but comes out from the waist.
. Kimono. Joined to the body, without a seam at the shoulder.
. Raglan. It extends over the shoulder, partially covering it.
. Bell. It widens from the elbow.
. Ham. Very wide sleeve at the forearm and fitted at the arm.

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 5. Collars and sleeves

Due to its length

. Manga cup.
. A quarter. Short sleeve that covers half of the upper arm.
. Short. Covers the arm without reaching the elbow.
. At the elbow
. Three quarters. Covers half of the upper part of the forearm.
. Long or to the fist. Covers the entire arm up to the fist.
. Special design below the cuff

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 5. Collars and sleeves

TERMINOLOGY

[Link] of the sleeve. The curve of the top part of the front sleeve to the back.
Somewhat stiff fabrics should have some looseness to facilitate movement.
2. Height of the cup. The one that goes from the bicep line to the center of the cup.
[Link] line. The widest part of the sleeve divides the wide part of the cup of the part
[Link]
under the arm.
4. Sleeve ease. The excess in width that is allowed when cutting the fabric and that permits better
placement of the sleeve at the armhole and comfort of arm movements.
5. Cup ease. Difference between the cup and the armhole gap (2 or 3 cm).
6. Elbow height. Corresponds to the elbow of the arm and the clamp (if used).
7. Cuff height. Height of the sleeve hem or cuff if it has one.
8. Thread of the fabric. The central line of the sleeve aligns with the thread of the fabric.
[Link]. The sleeve divided into 4 parts is used as a guide to place the pattern on.
the fabric or transformations.
10. Notches. A notch indicates the front part of the sleeve at the cup, two notches indicate the back.
These notches will match the equivalents of the armhole. (these positions may vary).
They mark the control points of the ease as the sleeve is being sewn.
11. Shoulder seam. It is connected to the underarm area of the garment.
12. Elbow clamp. Allows greater ease of movement in the lower part of the arm in a
sleeve adjusted on rather rigid fabric.
13. Opening of the fist. It should be positioned at the height of the wrist bone upwards and
allows the hand to enter. This same opening extends with the fist,
which can then be closed with buttons or other decorative closures.

sleeve cup

picketing

biceps line

elbow height
elbow pliers

rtu

fist height
abe

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 5. Collars and sleeves

LOCATION OF CODE LINE AND BLEED IN THE SLEEVE

Bleed line

C ½ of the distance A–B

C' ½ of the distance A' – B'

It corresponds to the part of the sleeve that is attached to the armhole of the front.

Elbow line

It is done the same as the previous one.

Another way to do it would be to fold the sleeve, aligning the center seams with the
center of this (dashed lines)

A C B

A' C' B'

LOCATION OF THE ELBOW DESCENT

A 1/3 of the cup A

C half of the distance A–B

Lower 2 cm from C to D, placing the elbow drop at this point.

C
D

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 5. Collars and sleeves

Cuffs and Sleeve Finishes

The cuffs in their many variations and the endings of sleeves and their position on the forearm,
They can add interest to a dress design and complement other features of the sleeve.
like: volume in certain parts, cuts at different heights, drapes, etc.

Think of the many modifications that are possible by making changes to these elements of
any of the basic sleeves.

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 5. Collars and sleeves

OPENINGS AND SLEEVES

RUG

Screen strip placed overlaid on a edge or corner of a piece to polish or beautify it (of
shirt), to give it greater consistency (polo) or to place the eyelets or closure of an opening
zipper

OPENING OF SLEEVE

Cut that is made in the lower part of it, for the convenience of the user.

The armhole openings can be finished with facings, bias, bindings, or just with a hem.
double.

The arm openings vary in size, depending on the finish given to them. The size
it ranges between 8 and 12 cm.

KNIGHT'S TAPESTRY

. A mat measuring 15 x 6 cm is made.

. Opening of 10 cm
. Adorno stitched with 4 cm
. Calculated seams of 0.5 cm
. The other part of the opening has a double edge.
. They are made ending in a point (1) or square (2)
. With this type of opening, the fist can carry a hammer.

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 5. Collars and sleeves

FINISHED IN CLIP SHAPE

They are all made with a double edging.

Once the two parts are edged, a small fold is made and a basting stitch is given.
decoration to make it more reinforced.

2. A double edging is also done, the opening is moved to the seam, resulting in a more
reinforced, then the end is finished on the reverse.

3. Just like the previous one, but the opening is placed in its position.

OPENING WITH BIES

Length of the bias = Double the length of the opening + 2 cm for turn.

The width of the bias will be between 3 and 3.5 cm

1. The bias is sewn to the opening. It is advisable to reinforce the end.

2. He turns and finishes with a backhand.

3. Right of the pledge once completed.

The opening is 8 cm.

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 5. Collars and sleeves

OPENING WITH VIEW

The opening is 8 cm.

Viewing distance = 8 cm + 3 cm.

Ancho de vista = 6 cm

To shape the view, lower 1.5 cm.

The view along the edge is stitched along the edge.

2. The overlocked hem goes on the reverse side and is attached to the sleeve with an invisible stitch or with viledón.
Around the opening, a decorative topstitch is added.

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 5. Collars and sleeves

BASE PATTERN. CUP ACCORDING TO TYPE OF GARMENT

. LADY
 3/10 of Shoulder Perimeter: dress, blouse, and jacket (shoulder in its place)
 ¼ of Sisa Perimeter: unisex (shifted shoulder)
 1/5 of Sisa Perimeter: shirts (shoulder quite displaced)

. Gentleman
 3/10 of Sisa's Perimeter: jacket
 ¼ofSisaperimeter:sport
 1/5ofSleevePerimeter:shirts

. CHILD-A
 3/10 of Sisa Perimeter: base pattern
 ¼ofSisaperimeter:sport
 1/5ofSisaPerimeter:shirts

. NECESSARYMEASURES
 Sisa's Perimeter
 Arm length

For the creation of the sleeves, the measurement of the armhole perimeter is needed, which cannot be
to obtain, without first making the pattern of the body, that is, the back and front, to which it is intended
manga.

Once we have the back and front pattern, we will proceed as follows;

 The measurement of the armhole perimeter of the back and front is taken from the inner side, with the tape.
completely perpendicular metric.
 Once the measurement is made, both measures are added together, giving us the result of the PERIMETER.
OFSISA.
 Wewil addthedesiredcuploosenesstothisSisaPerimeter,accordingtothetypeofsleeveorfabric.

Depending on the garment to which the sleeve is intended, the base pattern will differ in the
measurement of the cup drop.

A B

Front Sisa Perimeter

Perimeter of Sisa Back

SisaPerimeter=A+B

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 5. Collars and sleeves

6 1 7
1–2 3/10 of the armhole perimeter (cup height) 4 5

1–3 4/10 of Height 7th Cervical. Square in 1, 2, and 3. 15 16

2–4 14
Halfofthearmholeperimeter
2–5 13
11 8 12
1/10 of the armhole perimeter. 10 9 2
1-6
1–7 Squaring at point 6 resulting in point 9

8
10
8–13 Equal distance of 8–12

10–14
6-15 Equal distance of 1–6
7–16

3–17
1/3 distance of 2–3
3–18

17 3 18

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 5. Collars and sleeves

SLEEVE PATTERNS

MANGA FOR SPORT BODY

1–2 Arm length

3–1 Cup height, ¼ ofArmhole perimeter
4–3 ½Armhole perimeter (measured diagonally)
5–3 ½Armhole perimeter (measured diagonally)
6–3 Just like 1–4
7–3 Just like 1–5
8–1 1/10 ofArmhole Perimeter
9–3 Just like 1–8
10 Atthehalfwaypointof7-9

11–1 1/10 ofArmhole Perimeter

12–6 1/2 of the distance 1–8
13–10 Just like the distance 1–8
14–8 is the same as 1–8
15–11 Just like 1–11
16–12 equals 6–12

Draw curve of cup 7–13–14–1–15–16–6

17–2 ¼ of the distance 1–2

18–2 ¼ of the distance 1–2 5 8 1 11 4

14 15

13

7 16 6
10 9 3 12

18 2 17

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 5. Collars and sleeves

MANGA WITH CLIP ON THE ELBOW I

This sleeve transforms from the base sleeve

A–2 2 cm. Draw a straight line 3–A. Square on both sides ofA.
B–A Just like the distance 2 - 17
C–A Just like the distance 2–18. Draw straight lines B–6 and C–7.
D–6 ½ of 17–6 minus 5 cm. Square from D to E
D– D’ 1 cm. Draw straight lines D' - 6 and D' - B
E–D ½ of the distance 3 - 6
F– D’ 1 cm. Draw the top line of the clamp F–E
G– D’ 1 cm. Draw lower line clamp G–E

5 8 1 11 4

14 15

13
16
7 10 9 3 12 6

E F
D D'
G

C 2
17
18 A B

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 5. Collars and sleeves

MANGA WITH CLAMP ON THE ELBOW II

First, we will make a normal sleeve and then we will proceed with the following transformations.

10–13 2 cm are applied towards point 11. It is joined with a line to 0. It is squared on both sides.
senses.
13–14 Measure 10-11 is applied. It joins to point 4.
13–15 The measure 10-12 is applied. It joins point 2.
16 It will be half of the points 2-15. It is squared.
16-17 6 cm or ½ of the distance 0–2
16–18 1cm.Itconnectswithlineto17
16–19 1cm.Itconnectswithlineto17
18–20 1cmistakenwithatemplate.Itisjoinedatpoint2.
19–21 1cmistakenwithatemplate.Itisjoinedatpoint15.

Forward

B BACK

MANGA
4 0 2

FORWARD BACK

18 20
17
16
19 21

10
14 12
11 13 15

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 5. Collars and sleeves

TWO-SHEET MANGA WITH CLAMP AT THE ELBOW

We start from the sleeveless shirt armhole (Armhole–2 cm) and adjust the sleeve opening.

Match 1 with 1' and 2 with 2' on the X-Y line

4 1/3 d3–1

5 ½ de4–2+ 2 cm. downwards

To draw a perpendicular and find y and 7

Mark 1 cm up and 1 cm down (on the front of the sleeve) to

make the pin until 6

Mark the clamp on both sides

Cut the sleeve at the fold (Awith B and C with D)

1 X 1'
Cut the clip on both sides of the sleeve

Match 8 with 9 and stick. FORWARD BACK

Give 1 cm of seam as indicated in the chart and at the hem in the

sleeve 4 cm approximately

Givetickets,accordingtothegraph.

Y
4 2 2'
A
C
1

SEWING

FORWARD BACK
FORWARD BACK

8 5
7 6
9
FORWARD BACK

2
D B
CIMMERIAN PAGE
LOW SHEET

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 5. Collars and sleeves

TWO UNEQUAL SHEET MANGA WITH A CLIP AT THE ELBOW

We start from the armhole of the seamless shirt (Armhole–2 cm), we adjust.
sleeve

Match the assembly line with the sleeve line and paste it.

4 1/3 de3–1, on top sheet

5 1/3 of the measurement from the fold to the assembly line (on the side), in
the cup in the sleeve (on the lower sheet)

6 ½ de4–2+ 2 cm. down

Draw a perpendicular and we find 7 and 8.

Mark 1 cm up and 1 cm down (on the front) to

1 X 1'
make a pincher up to 8

Mark the clamp on both sides FORWARD BACK

Cut the sleeve along line 5 and 5’

Removetheclipfromtheupperandlowersheetandglue.

Give 1 cm of seam as indicated in the graph and at the hem in the

4 cm approximately sleeve

Give tickets according to graphs.

Y
2 2'
Narrow
3 2 CM ON EACH SIDE

5
5' 1

Forward BACK FORWARD BACK

6
7 8

2
5' 5
SUMMIT SHEET
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 5. Collars and sleeves

MANGA TYPE CUTOFF

Measures

P. Sisa 46
Cup height: 3/10 of P. sisa 15
Sisa: ½ cup + its half 11.2
Sleeve length 58
Arm contour 32
Wrist contour 18

Layout
7
1 3
1–2 Draw a line with sleeve length
1–3 Half (arm circumference + 3 ease) 16 10
7 Half of 1–3
1–5 Sisa (half of the cup + its half)
3–6 9 17
5–9 5 6
3–10 11
5–11
12
13
13–15 Enter 4 cm
Join9with15and15with12
2–16 Half (wrist circumference + 3 ease)
Join 14 with 16 and with 12
Cup. Draw diagonal 1–6 and measure a quarter of it.
diagonal in 1–16 and in 6–17 to draw the cup,
finish layout according to attached pattern with curves
13 15 14

Note: uneven sleeve

12
2 4
16

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 5. Collars and sleeves

THE EXPANSIONS IN THE SLEEVE

1. Prepare a basic sleeve pattern

2. Determine its length (24 cm)

3. Divide between the elbow line and the bleed line into 4 equal parts

4. On the other side of the lines of

elbow and bleeding, trace some
parallel to 2 cm

5. Number each line

These added values, whether they are

displacements or widenings,
they can be done by cuts,
by stamping them or by spins.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Tuning the bass in short sleeves

On the elbow line, lower 2 cm

2. Raise 1 cm on the bleed line

3. Outline the sleeve hem

going through these new ones
pointsandthroughthecenterofthe
manga

4. Check the bass line of

the sleeve closing it.

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 5. Collars and sleeves

LANTERN MANGA

Draw all the lines

Place all the pieces parallel to the center of the sleeve, giving:

1.5 cm on either side of the center of the sleeve

- 3 cm in lines 3 and 5
1 cm on lines 1, 2, 6, and 7

RaiseAtoA' by at least 3 cm

Redraw the outline of the sleeve cup passing throughA'.

At point 6, raise 1 cm

At point 2, lower 2 cm.

Redraw the lower part of the sleeve

A'

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 5. Collars and sleeves

Pork Leg

Draw all the lines

Give the following expansions only in the cup of the sleeve:

1.5 cm on each side of the center of the sleeve

- 3 cm in lines 3 and 5
1 cm in lines 1, 2, 6, and 7

RaiseAtoA' by at least 3 cm

Redraw the outline of the sleeve passing throughA’

Trace the sleeve's hem by tuning.

If a narrower bass is desired, it can be narrowed.

superimposing the pieces of paper on the bass.

A'

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 5. Collars and sleeves

Manga with a low flight

Bulging Manga in the Cup

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 5. Collars and sleeves

BELL MANGA

FANTASY MANGA. CHIMNEY MANGA

view

view

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 5. Collars and sleeves

MANGA WITH CENTRAL SEAM

SLEEVE WITH GATHERING AT THE CUP. HAM SLEEVE

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 5. Collars and sleeves

MANGA WITH TAB

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 5. Necklines and Sleeves

BUTTERFLY MANGA

. Mark all lines

. Give the extensions only at the lower level.
 2cmononesideandtheotherofthecenter
 4 cm in lines 3 and 5
 2cm on lines 2 and 6
 1 cm in lines 1 and 7
. Redraw the cup
. In the center of the expansion 2, lower 2 cm (elbow line)
. In the center of the expansion 6, rise 1 cm (bleed line)
. Draw the bass

The proposed values in the sleeve expansions may vary depending on the desired model.

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 5. Collars and sleeves

JAPANESE MANGA FORM

They are derived mangas from Japanese-style mangas that are defined as body pieces, back and
fronts with the sleeve integrated into them. They receive this name due to similarity to the garments
typical Japanese garments called Kimonos.

Bat

They are very wide sleeves with the central seam of the sleeve in position
horizontal, very comfortable but with strong wrinkles underarms.

Back Shaped.

 From 7 to A and from 16 to B. Half of the difference between Chest and Thorax.
Maximum. The sideA–B is drawn.
 Line 12–C is drawn, squared to center 1–3.
 From 10 to C. Sleeve length equal to 4/10 of Height 7th Cervical
 Square 12–C–D
 From C to D. Width of the bass plus one centimeter.
 AstraightlineisdrawnfromDtoA.

10 12
C

7
A

B
16

Front Layout.

 From 8 to A and from 19 to B. Half of the 13 12 C

difference between Chest and Maximum Thorax. It
trace the seam of sideA–B
 Aline 13 - C is drawn, perpendicular to the edge.
D
 From 12 to C. Sleeve length equal to 4/10
17
of Height 7th Cervical
A 8
 Square 13–C–D 11
 From C to D. Width of the bass minus one
centimeter
 AstraightlineisdrawnfromDto17

19
B

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 5. Collars and sleeves

Straight back

Same as model [Link] line 7-E is drawn. In this case, the back and
manga forms two different pieces.

E 10 12
C
1

7 6
A

B 3
16

Front straight seam

Same as model 1. A seam line 17–E is traced. As in the case

previously the front and the sleeve form two different pieces.

13 12 E
C

17

A 8
11

19
B

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 5. Collars and sleeves

Curved back sisa

From the shoulder seam, the sleeve is shaped with a curved seam passing through pointA.

The seams from D to B can curve in the armpit area.

10 12
C

B
16

Curved front slice

From the shoulder seam, the sleeve seam is traced in a curved manner.
passing through pointA.

The seam from D to B can curve in the armpit area.

The sleeve can be made of two pieces with a seam at 12–C or from a single piece.
joining the front and rear sleeves by C - 10

13 12
C

17

A
11 8

19
B

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 5. Collars and sleeves

STRAIGHT MANGA

Type of Japanese sleeve less comfortable than the previous one for being primarily a narrower sleeve,
but fewer wrinkles, it is a very commonly used sleeve in knit sportswear.

Back Layout.

 [Link]
 AstraightlineisdrawnfromAtoB
 From 13 to [Link] length (4/10 of Height 7th Cervical)
 Squad 13–C–D
 FromCtoD.¼fromCto13+1cm
 FromAto E. 1/10 of Base
12
 A sewing line is drawn.
fromDtoE 13 1

C
7
A

B 3
16
Front Layout.

 [Link]
[Link] line is drawn fromAto B
 The shoulder line is extended from 13 to 15 towards C.
 From 15 to C long sleeve equal to 4/10 of Height 7th Cervical
 Squad 15–C–D
 FromCtoD.¼ofCto13minusone 13
centimeter
15
 It is squared 11–17–F
 From17toF.1/10ofBase
 Aseam line is drawn 8-D
 FromAto E. Just like from 17 to F
 The seam line of the dart is traced.
fromFto11andfrom11toE 17
C
A
11 F 8
E

19
B

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 5. Collars and sleeves

Sisa straight back

Once the back is traced, the sleeve of the body can be cut by slicing the pattern along the line of the
sewing E–F.

12
13 1

C
7
A

B 3
16

Front straight seam

The forward is cut up in a manner similar to the back by cutting the garment at E–F.

The sleeve can be made in one piece by joining the back and front pattern along the F–C line.

13
15

C
A
11 F 8
E

19
B

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 5. Collars and sleeves

Curved back sisa

With the sleeve planned, the sleeve seam can be cut in a curved shape, placing the seam on top.
frompoint13orvaryingthelocationaccordingtothedesign.Thecurve13isdrawntoE.

12
13 1

C
7
A

B 3
16

Front curved residue

From 13 to 15 the same distance as from 12 to 13 on the [Link] curve from 15 to E is drawn.

If a one-piece sleeve is desired, it can be joined at seam C–13 of the back to C–15 of the
forward.

13
15

C
A
11 F 8
E

16
B

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 5. Collars and sleeves

Body with sleeve

Flat handle manga

Pattern making: Male, female and

infantile.

1–2 According to design

2
1
Raise the shoulder by 1.5 cm to define.
accordingtodesign.

Whole manga or part according to

design.

Hammer manga

1–2 According to design

Whole manga or part according to design. 1

2

back

forward

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 5. Collars and sleeves

Square sleeve. Dolman sleeve.

Sisa según diseño.

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 5. Collars and sleeves

Raglan type manga

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 5. Collars and sleeves

Manga raglan or raglan. Type A

We start from the basic back pattern.

front and sleeve.
1
1
We mark on the neckline from 3 to 5 2 2
cm
5
From there we wil draw a tangent to the 5
where will point3 be located 4
4 ½of2–3 4
4–51/10 of the measure 2–4
(approximately 1.5 cm) 3
Draw a smooth curve from 2 to 3 3
passing through5
Separate the shaded areas of
back and front and place the parts
corresponding to the fees on the
sleeve crown as shown the
graph.
6–73 cm to smooth the curves
Sewing on lines 2–3
(front, back, sleeve)
Optionally, it can be separated the 2
1 1
front part of the rear line 7-8 (give
2
stitching)

3 3

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 5. Collars and sleeves

Raglan or raglan sleeve. Type B

1–21/5 of base
2–3
2–41,5 cm
4–5
6–7 equals 5–6
7–8½ back neckline
8–92,5 cm
10 111/10 of 10 –9
1–121/10 from 1–2
6–133 cm to smooth curves 9
On the back, the shoulder is removed according to the neckline. 7 8
3-5, tangent. 4 5
In forward, the shoulder is removed according to 7-9.
3 2
tangent.

6
1 12 11
10

13

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 5. Collars and sleeves

Raglan or raglan sleeves. Type C

We start from the base pattern of the back, front, and sleeve.

We mark on the neckline from 3 to 5 cm

From here we wil draw a tangent to the armhole where point 3 wil be situated.
4 ½of2-3
4–51/10 of the measure 2–4
Draw a smooth curve from 2 to 3 passing through 5
Separate the shaded area and place point X over the center of the sleeve (mounting the crown on
X, 2 cm)
Since the crown does not fit the armhole perfectly, we wil make some cuts on the sleeve "A and B".
separating them until the crown makes contact with the complement.
Mark the new outline of the sleeve
Add seams to the sleeve.

2 1 2
TERO
DELAN
ES
PA
4 LD
5 5 A
4

3 X

A B

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 5. Collars and sleeves

Raglan back manga

On the back schematic, we can outline the raglan variant with the following variations:

 From 11 to C the quantity

estimatedaccordingtothemodel
11
 From C touching point X 12
C
1
the curve of the sleeve is drawn
C–X–4

A 5
4

B 2

19

Front raglan sleeve

About the scheme of the forward, the variant of the raglan sleeve can be drawn by making the following
variations:

 [Link] 3
0
C
model. 15

 From C and touching point X, the line is drawn K

C–X–4 sleeve curve
X

6 11 A
4

2
B
3

18

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 5. Collars and sleeves

Manga in shape

To trace this sleeve, the basic sleeve must be available along with the back and the front.

Thesleeveisattachedtothecorrespondingpartofthebodywiththeshouldercurved.

This sleeve is much more balanced.

but it doesn't have the comfort of the
previous. 11
16 9
Backdiagram 12

 The normal pattern is cut

2
advancing 6 to A and 8 to B.
Half of the difference between the
Maximum Thorax Measurement and
Chest. X
 Point 9 is matched with the A 6 9
back with the 13 on the sleeve. 4
On point 9 it is rotated the E
manga until they match
point 16 of the sleeve with the 12
from the back.
 The curves will coincide at a B 8 2
3
punto común X. Se traza la curva
fromXto4.

19

1 13

15
17
14
Front scheme

 The normal pattern is cut by advancing 8 to A 2

and from 9 to B. Half of the difference between the X
maximumthoraxandchestmeasurement.
 The point 11 of the body is matched with the 67 11 A
15fromthesleeve. 5 8
 The curves will intersect at a common point X.
The curve is traced from X to 4.

2 B
9

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 5. Collars and sleeves

Manga with yoke back

It is about a manga that carries

11
attached the yoke. It proceeds from the
9 1
in the following way:
12

 Point C located according to the

model D C
 The seam of the yoke is traced.
fromCtoD
X

A 5

B
3

19

Manga with front yoke

The process is similar in the forward, afterwards 13

0
having placed the sleeve in the correct position.
15
 PointCistheheightoftheyokeaccordingtothedesign. 14
 The seam is drawn from C to D
 The part of the sleeve is limited to 14– C D
13–15–3–18–4–X–DandC X

6 11 A
4

2 B

18

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 5. Collars and sleeves

Manga with side back

The back and front are planned in a Japanese style with form.

 Points C and D according to design

 TheseamofthearmholeisdrawnfromDto4
 From2toFisthesameasfrom5toC
 FromFtoE,theamountoftightnessis2cm
 The seam is traced from C to E.
 Point D according to design
 TheseamofthearmholeistracedfromDto4.
 From2toFisthesameasfrom6toC
 Thestraightlineisdrawnfrom4toF
 FromFtoE3cmforthetighteningoftheclamp
 AstraightlineisdrawnfromCtoE.
 Costadillo. From G to B 2 cm for the fitting
 From F to E 2 cm for the clamp
 TheclampistracedfromCtoEandthesidefromAtoB.

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 5. Collars and sleeves

Mixed Mangoes

Mixed manga – raglan back

From12toClocationoftheseamaccordingtothedesign.

The seam curve C–X–4 is drawn.

The tight sleeve of the forward can have a seam of 2 to 3 or go without it depending on the model.

12
17
5 C
16
11

X
A7
4

18

B 9
3

11
19 1
12

D D
E

C
A C 5
4

F E E
B F 2
3

19

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 5. Collars and sleeves

Three-piece back bodice

Another variant consists of the yoke of three.

11
pieces. Consisting of a wide yoke that 9 1
It reaches up to the central seam of the sleeve, the 12
D
a proper manga that can be of a
or two-piece and the lower back.
E C

The process for its realization is limited to the

next transformation: X

A 5
 ThepointC–E–D,accordingtodesign
 The seam of the yoke C–E–D is traced. 4

B 2
3

19

Three-piece front yoke

It is done similarly to the back, although the

0 13
point D must match the back and front, that is
sewing with sewing. 15

14
D
 Therefore, from 15 to D is equal to from 12 to D in the E
C
back.
 The sewing line D–E–C is drawn accordingly. X

to the model.
6 11 A
4

2 B

18

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 5. Collars and sleeves

Mixed raglan and normal sleeve

It can also be raglan in the front and normal in the back (depending on the design)

BACK Forward

Manga mixta japonesa y normal

ItcanalsobeJapaneseinthefrontandnormalintheback(dependingonthedesign)

BACK FORWARD

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 5. Collars and sleeves

JAPANESE MANGA

real Japanese manga

This transformation consists of making the front and the sleeve form a single pattern, just like the
back and the other half sleeve since it almost always goes to the manga split by the straight-thread except for models
concrete and that the fabric allows us (width).

On the shoulder of the forward, we will remove 1 cm to define the neckline. That centimeter will be added to the
back.

We moved the chest dart to the side or lower, but leaving an opening in the dart of 2 cm.

Onthesideseam,wewil mark4cmonthebackandfront(startingfromtheopening),andanother4cmonthesleeve.
cm on the assembly line and 2 cm in the center of the cup on each side (reference points)

We assemble the pieces leaving 4 cm of space between the shoulder and the cup, and we draw a line from the neckline.
going through the 2 cm of the cup to the base of the cup (smooth line)

To give mobility to the sleeve, we add a piece (like a pleat), called 'sleeve piece'.
"Japanese" having previously separated the patterns in the armpit area 8 cm. (connecting the point of 4 cm with
tangenttothesides)thispiecehastheshapeofarhombusmeasuring10x10and13cmwideaccordingtothedrawing.

13 c 10c

m m

2 2
10 cm

2 4
4 4
4

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 5. Collars and sleeves

Japanese manga

BACK

1–2 Line 1 is extended. Half of the 1

armhole circumference
1–3 Locate point 3 by squaring
about line 1-2, after measuring 3

3/10 of P.S. from point 1

1–4 is extended to 1–3 and 4/10 is applied
height, is squared 6

1/10 of height is applied, it is joined with

form to point 2
2

SQUARE

Thesmallsquareisplacedintheseamofthesleeveandsidesothatitdoesn'tpull.

A line is drawn from the point where the sleeve and side intersect.
the most prominent part or point of the armhole is marked at 8 cm. This
the small square is 8 x 8 cm

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 5. Collars and sleeves

TRENCH COAT

1-2 3 cm
2–3 Arm length, 4/10 of height 7th C4
4 ½ of 2–3 + 3 cm
1–5 ¼ofthearmholeperimeter
5-6 They lower by 2 cm
1–7 Halftheperimeterofthearmhole-3cm.Itissquareddowngivingpoint8.
7–9 1/3 of 1–7 + 0.5 cm
1–10 3 cm
11 Halfof9–10
11–12 rises 1.5 cm
2–13 Enter 2.5 cm. Join 13–12–9
8–15 They rise 4 cm
8–16 Aquarter of 2-3 is applied. It joins 4 and 15.
8–17 Apply ¼ of 2–3. Join 15.
0–18 Themeasurement0–4.Itissquaredtowardsline1andtowardsline3.Itjoinsat17.
19–20 Measure 6–2
20–21 Enter 2.5 cm. It connects in shape to 18 and towards the middle of 00–19.

12
7 9 10
1
11
21
20
13 12

14 5
19 6
00

18 0 4

15

3
17 8 16

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 5. Collars and sleeves

RAGLAN SLEEVE T-SHIRT WITH CENTER SEAM

Note:The tailor's sleeve pattern is made with a seam in the middle, along with its corresponding points.

12–27 Point 12 is extended upward. 1/5 of the base is applied.

It rises 1.5 cm
27–29 Remove 1.5 cm
28-30istakenout1.5cm.Anecklineshapeiscreatedbyjoining29-30.Withastraightline15-30andwithshapeof
29lefttowardsthemiddleof9–10
30–31 Point 4 is extended from 7 in a slanted line towards line 4. It is applied 15–30.
The neckline measurement taken at the back is about 3cm. It is connected straight to point 9.
Itrises1.5cm.Itjoinswithshapeto30andwitharmholeshapetowardsthemiddleof9–10.

33
31 32
28 30
29 27

7 15
14 13
1 4
3 12
6

16

2
5 11
8 9 10

21 22 24 23

25
19
20 26 17 18

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OTHER TYPES OF NECKLINES

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 5. Collars and sleeves

OTHER TYPES OF COLLARS

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 5. Collars and sleeves

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 5. Collars and sleeves

COLLAR AND HOOD PATTERN ACCORDING TO AMADOR SYSTEM

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 5. Collars and sleeves

Draped

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 5. Collars and sleeves

DESIGN AND MANUFACTURING OF COLLARS

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 5. Collars and sleeves

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 5. Collars and sleeves

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 5. Collars and sleeves

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 5. Collars and sleeves

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 5. Collars and sleeves

OTHER TYPES OF SLEEVES

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FANTASY MANGA

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OTHER SLEEVE PATTERNS

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