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Understanding the Merging Process in Garment Production

This document describes the fusing process and interlinings. It explains that fusing is used to provide firmness to areas such as collars, cuffs, and waistbands. It details the types of interlinings such as fusible, woven, and non-woven, and how factors like temperature, pressure, and time influence the fusing process. It recommends selecting the correct interlining based on the weight and style of the garment to avoid failures in the process.

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
3 views40 pages

Understanding the Merging Process in Garment Production

This document describes the fusing process and interlinings. It explains that fusing is used to provide firmness to areas such as collars, cuffs, and waistbands. It details the types of interlinings such as fusible, woven, and non-woven, and how factors like temperature, pressure, and time influence the fusing process. It recommends selecting the correct interlining based on the weight and style of the garment to avoid failures in the process.

Translated by

ScribdTranslations
Copyright
© All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

Merging process.

Natanael Arroyave David


Nayivis Martínez Hernández
Sandra Orozco Orozco
Liliana Escobar Carvajal
Luz Yenny Carabalí López
Introduction.
Merged products arrived in America 25 years ago,
as an alternative for saving in the tasks, eliminating the
sewing of the interlinings to the outer fabric. Until about 15 years,
that which was achieved with the name of interfacing was
quite close to the definition of canvas, or another fabric
stiffener that is placed between the fabric and lining to give rigidity to the
Nowadays, rigid interlinings are still being used.
but they have made their way into the interfacing market haven't they
woven, which already have a significant participation within
from the market. Softness and comfort have been the boom,
the nineties and the linings have not been left behind this is
the need of the market.
Merging process.

This process is carried out by the confessor.


in its production plant and the success or
the failure of the operation depends on the
care and the available means, for it
which correct selection is recommended
of the interlinings.
THE FUSED ONE.

It is a process done to give firmness to the collars.


fists, straps, knobs, and giving body to certain
garments.
The main input for the fusion process is the
interlining, this process can be done manually, or with
industrial machines.
The fusible interlinings are the most commonly used.
in the sewing projects due to being practical.
Basically, it is a felt impregnated on one of its sides.
with an adhesive that is activated by the heat of the iron.
It comes in different weights and each one fulfills a
specific function when applied to a piece of the
garment.
Variables that influence the process of
merged.
Thermal Adhesion.

Thermal adhesion consumes much less energy, it is better


with the environment and more economical. A wide range of
Products can be made with thermal adhesion, depending
from the options used in the process. The adhesion method
thermal has a significant effect on the characteristics of
product. Depending on the adhesion method, the
product characteristics can vary from non-porous,
very thin, inextensible, and non-absorbent even,
bulky or thick, extensible and absorbent. All the
thermal adhesion methods provide certain points of
strong links that are resistant to the hostile environment and also
to many solvents.
Pressure.
The pressure during the melting process was not taken into account.
has been properly accounted for many years, however
It is now known that pressure depends on the
the transfer of the adhesive resin is appropriate for
that the internal connection between the fabric and the interfacing be
reliable.
If the pressure system does not work evenly across the entire width
from the conveyor belt and the proper pressure is not
then the characteristics of the fabric and the
interfacing cannot be developed properly and the
the result will be irreparable damage to the parts
merged.
General recommendations for
merge.
A machine in perfect condition is required.
conditions to achieve a good result.
Only the exact balance of temperature,
pressure and time can guarantee a
perfect adherence. For this reason the
temperature across the pressure surface
must be carefully evaluated every day,
the same as when there is any interruption.
Causes of failures.

2. The main fabric wrinkles where the interfacing was glued.


The interfacing separates from the fabric partially or totally.
These faults can be evidenced quickly or in use and
after washing or dry cleaning. The reason for these failures
It could be due to the use of an imperfect fissionable, but it is more.
common that it is due to having given the machine bad
coordinates of temperature, pressure, and time, is also
common that occur when a fissile material has been used
incorrect.
Recommendations for prevention
fusion flaws.
The interfacing is an internal support of the garment and the weight.
and the fall must be compatible with the style that is
plan to manufacture, select a interfacing of the same weight
or lighter than the main fabric.
Double the sample after the fused test. If
a fold creates a crease in the main fabric, try
a lighter interfacing. The properly fused fabric
it needs to be flexible and recover from wrinkles.
What is a braid.
The interfacing is the hidden element that provides shape and
support in certain areas of any type of garment,
such as collars, pockets, waists, and eyelets. It adds body
to the light fabrics and prevents the heavy ones from bending over themselves
the same. It is used for both flat and knitted fabrics,
for tailoring and corsetry. There are light and dark ones
depending on the color of the fabric to be interfaced.
The key to choosing the right one is to know the type of
interfacing and what type of garments we are going to fuse.
CLASSIFICATION OF INTERFACES.

WOVEN INTERFACINGS
Made from woven or knitted fabrics, they have
transverse and longitudinal threads. It must be
cut along the same thread as the part of the garment that
it will be reinforced. Otherwise, if we cut it off
biceps will provide elasticity.
NOTESHAKES

They are made from Polyester, Rayon fibers, or


Acrylics, arranged in layers on top of each other,
joined together by means of different processes
chemicals. Therefore, they do not have thread, they can be cut into
any direction, and they do not fray. They result
perfect in knitted genres.
Thermoplastics.
Thermofusible interlinings are faster and easier.
to use, they adhere to the fabric through heat, and provide greater
stiffness to the fabric or body, depending on the item.
They have been in the market for forty years. The decision to
use interfacing.
Thermofusibles or sewing is a matter of preference.
personal. The interlinings
Thermofusibles are suitable for almost all types of fabrics.
But some fabrics do not react well with the
combination of heat, steam, and pressure required for the
application of a thermofusible fabric.
TYPES OF INTERFACES.

Sewed.
There is less variety than in the case of the
fusionable materials. To choose the appropriate one, it is necessary to consider
consider the weight of the fabric, the firmness that is desired,
to obtain, the areas where it will be applied and if the fabric is
compatible with the interfacing.
Weight is usually the most important thing. In general, the
The interfacing should be something lighter than the fabric.
FLISELINA.
There is less variety than in the case of thermoplastic materials.
To choose the right one, the weight of must be taken into account.
the fabric, the firmness that is desired.
to obtain, the areas where it will be applied and if the fabric is
compatible with the interlining.
Weight is usually the most important. In general, the interfacing
It should be something lighter than the fabric.

. Fliselina is the most commonly used interfacing in the industry due to


What is economics.
. It has the appearance of paper. It is used to harden and at the same time
to give body.
. There are adhesive ones or sewing ones. They can be found in large.
variety of thicknesses and colors, light and dark.
INTERFACES THAT GIVE BODY.

Another classification is according to its function. The


interlinings that give shape are the ones that give it
density to the garment, giving it more
structure, an assembly.
empowered. About fifteen years ago, there
they used French interlinings.
Mello-Dot

They are thermofusible. The glue


is found in the form of polka dots
there are woven, synthetic, and non-woven
cotton base. It should be cut with
seam allowance.
Mello-Weft

They are thermofusible. There are only woven ones.


synthetic It should be. Cut with margin of
sewing. It has back and forth across.
elasticity.
Jersey interfacing

its composition is synthetic. It possesses


more elasticity in width than in
the length. Ideal for knitting and
thin fabrics the glue has shine
and requires a lot of heat to
adhere.
Interlinings that provide stiffness

They are what give stiffness and structure to the garment.


Percaline is composed of 100% cotton and its
Its main function is to harden. There are some.
fusible or sewing, of tight weave or
open seams. They are used in tailoring and in
corsetry. They are worked without seam allowance. The
fusible interlinings are ideal for collars and cuffs
of shirting.
Tailored armed belt.

it is used to shape the waist in tailored pants


It has inner, outer, and twill fabric for its assembly.
Sold by the meter. It is very useful for covers or pocket linings.
Pocket fund or pocket background.

It is used for assembling the pocket or waistband of the pants.


tailoring. It has a herringbone pattern carved diagonally, so it
It is also known by that name. It comes in widths of 1.4 and 1.5 meters.
light and dark color. It is advisable to use light colors. It must
dry cleaning. It is generally made from 100% cotton batiste or
well mixed with canvas that are more economical for pockets of
cargo pants, shorts, and capris.
Wool interfacing

it is similar to the plaster. It is used to harden the


front chest piece of classic men's tailoring
and achieve a flawless finish on the garment. It
put it through seams but without carrying it
margins. It is also used for the assembly of
necks.
Manga chorizo

It is placed together with the burlap shoulder pad. It performs the


Tour of the Cup of Sastre Sleeve. Hide them.
sewing margins.
It is fundamental for good tailoring. It is similar to
tie assembly.
Hemp shoulder pad.

its shape corresponds to that of the front and back armhole


comes in a standard size, so that they can
make adjustments according to the size.
Little spider

they are used for the rises of the ring. It has glue of
the two sides.
The advantages and disadvantages of the
fusible interlinings.
Advantages

Greater production
Reduction of time and labor costs
A significant increase in quality, appearance, and performance
of the garment
Reduction of stitch ripples in seams
Better way in the production of quality garments
The removal of certain stitch operations
Disadvantages

Generally, it cannot be used on fabrics with


high surface, because when fused it gets flattened.
It becomes firmer once it merges. You might...
It caught my attention its weight and firmness. It
it is recommended to perform the merging tests once
it is stuck to the fabric.
It tends to crush fabrics like gauze and textiles.
with the effect of warp.
It may damage fabrics that cannot be ironed.
vapor. The adhesive may transfer onto fabrics
with somewhat open fabrics.
PREPARATION OF THE INTERFACES

In the case of fusible interlinings, it is recommended


always test on a scrap of fabric to
to ensure that their properties are not altered,
put a clean cloth on the ironing board to
prevent part of the adhesive from sticking to it, and iron
with care without moving the iron from side to side, since
this will cause the appearance of air bubbles between the
the fabric and the interfacing will not be well secured.
THERMAL ADHESIVE TRADITIONAL
THERMOFUSIBLE FUSIBLE, FUSIBLE
HELLO WEEF, NON-WOVEN INTERFACING
Jersey interlining, percale
POCHETTE CHORIZO
COMIC woven
SHOULDER PADS, fissionable.
Interlinings with intercession of
weft and warp.
Weaving. Plot.
Machinery for the process of
merged.
Poor quality of the garment due to
wrinkled interfacing.

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