Textile processing

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Introduction

Textile products, fibers, threads, and fabrics (mainly the latter), when
are produced, they have slightly rough aspects, with stains and without
mb.

It is therefore necessary to have processes aimed at giving them characteristics.

of use, color, beauty, softness, etc. This is the function of textile processing.

Principle

In general, textile finishing follows these principles:

• preparation of the material; removal of undesirable impurities for the

following processing steps;
• coloration of the textile material, according to what is desired;
• final finishing of the textile material, according to the usage characteristics that
if you want to give.

All textile processing can be classified under these

principles, following, obviously, the recommended techniques for each
textile substrate or for each fiber.

Technically, the treatments can be divided into:

Primary processing

By definition, primary processing corresponds to all operations

for preparing the textile substrate so that it can better receive dye.

They are classified in these categories:

• singeing: cotton and blends;

• ungumming: any fiber;
• cooking/purge: cellulosic fibers;
• washing/purging: others;
• mercerization: cotton;
• fixation: synthetic;
• chemical bleaching: any fiber.

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 • Secondary processing
These are all the operations aimed at giving color to the textile substrate:

• optical white;
• dyeing;
• stamping.

• Final processing
All operations carried out on textile substrates, aiming to make it
own or more suitable for the purpose it is intended for. Many times, however, these
operations are carried out with the purpose of making the product even more noble that
it will be marketed.

There are approximately 500 types of finishes cataloged among them.

physicists, chemists, and physical chemists.

Description of the processes and purposes of primary processing

Charring:

Objective: to remove, by burning, the fibers from the textile substrate (threads or fabrics),
aiming for a smoother final aspect or a preparation for very printed designs
delicate.

Uncapping:

The gums must be removed because they are undesirable for others.
beneficiation processes, as they would hinder the penetration of the baths
in the various treatments.

Cooking or purging:

They are carried out in an alkaline medium (sodium hydroxide) with the addition of a
washing agent (detergent) and is intended to remove oils or greases,
natural impurities of cotton such as cotton waxes, resins, substances
proteins, seed fragments and leaves, dust, etc.

Washing or purging:

Employed for any fiber, evidently, the process varies for each
fiber, as some are more resistant than others to the effect of alkalis.

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 Mercerization:

Mercerization refers to a brief treatment of threads or fabrics of

cotton under tension with concentrated cold caustic soda solution (10ºC). The
cotton shrinks significantly during treatment with caustic soda. When the
cotton, during this treatment, is subjected to tension (maintaining its
initial length, that is, preventing its shrinkage or even stretching it
but it acquires a beautiful shine. Furthermore, mercerization gives to
cotton has a greater affinity for dyes and increased resistance to breaking.

Specific primary finishing for synthetic fibers:

Thermal fixation:

Executed by one of the following methods:

• fixation by fiber expansion;

• in boiling water (100 ºC);
• in saturated steam (110-135 ºC);
• with superheated steam (190 ºC);
• in aqueous dilution of organic or inorganic dilating agents (20-
110 degrees Celsius;

• fixation in a dry state or with hot air;

• hot metal sheets;
• metal baths;
• with infrared lamps.

Description of the processes and purposes of secondary processing

They are all operations aimed at giving color to the textile substrate.

By the term 'color', we exclusively understand the print

sensory provided by a colored body or a colored light source.
This sensation of color is a subjective phenomenon.

The perception of color arises from physical phenomena (light source), reaction
physiological (eye) and psychological impressions.

Tingir, therefore, means to chemically or physically modify a substrate (fiber)

textiles) so that the reflected light appears colored, we thus call dyes the
materials that provide this modification. For this reason, the optical white
(optical brightener) is considered a dye and included in the processing
secondary.

The conscious application of dyes on textile substrates is the responsibility of

dyeing or printing.

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 The printing aims at the partial application of the dye, in the form of designs,
mainly about fabric or knitwear pieces.

The dyeing process aims for the equalized, uniform application (uni) of the dye on textiles.
The substrate can then appear in its various forms. They are:

dyeing

The dyeing industry is subdivided into two sectors:

• dyeing by continuous processes;

• dyeing by the exhaustion processes.
In continuous dyeing, the dye solution is applied onto the material,
generally in pieces, by uniform wetting (impregnation) and then
mechanically squeezed (wrung out), and then fixed:

• by resting: pad-batch, pad-roll +

• by heat (hot air): pad-dry, pad-termofix;
• by steam: pad-steam;
• by hot water with auxiliaries: pad-jigger.
The equalization problem is solved by mechanical installation.

Uniform exhaustion or equalization is determined by:

• bath circulation;
• assembly speed;
• migration of the dye.
bath circulation:

According to the dyeing system apparatus, the bath circulation can

vary.

In exhaustion dyeing, the three systems are mainly distinguished.

following:

♦ textile material in motion in the dyeing bath:

• trolley boat
• jigger
• arm device for skeins;
• textile material still, dyeing bath in motion;
• turbo (horizontal or vertical autoclave);
• circulation device for crossed coils;
• cabinet for skeins.

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 assembly speed:

The speed of assembling a dye can be influenced by the

following factors:

• temperature and time;

• acids, alkalis;
• electrolytes (salts);
• dilatants or dyeing accelerators, retardants;
• bath ratio.
♦ influence of temperature and time:

Temperature and time are primordial factors for the execution of a

dyeing.

♦ influence of auxiliary agents:

For better control of the assembly speed, the dyer also has
auxiliary agents at your disposal. One can distinguish between accelerator and
dye retardant.

Example of an accelerator: one of the most compact synthetic fibers is that of

polyester. It only allows the penetration of the dye with difficulty.

Example of retardant: if we apply an agent that has similarities

characteristics of dye affinity for the fiber, then the auxiliary agent
competes with the dye.

♦ influence of bath ratio (bath proportion):

Mainly in the cotton dyeing industry, the more concentrated the solution is.
the dye is displaced from the bath to the fiber all the faster by the
addition of salt, that is, the greater its substance. Thus, the more
the more we dilute the dye bath, the less the affinity of the dye for
with fiber.

colorant combinations - trichrome or bichrome:

The variety of color shades that is released in the market annually

the fast fashion forces the dyer to imitate fashion, through
combinations of a few selected dyes.

As a starting point, the color triangle is used.

By the simple combination of each two of the

three primary colors result in the shades of
orange, violet and green. These behave
how to complement the colors that are with you
opposites in the arrangement of the triangle above.

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 By the appropriate ternary combination of yellow, green, and blue and depending
from the proportion of each component, one can obtain gray, brown, beige, olive
etc.

b. printing

The printing can be differentiated into:

• pigment stamping
• printing of dyes
It also differs by the methods used for the application of the
pigments or dyes:

• plan: with normal panel or with automatic panel;

• rotary: with a cylinder with engraved surface, or with a perforated cylinder.
b1. stamping with pigments:

The pigments do not form bonds with the fibers, for this reason they are
applied and fixed through a binder.

Normally, by eliminating outdated processes, the following crystallize

methods:

• pasta based on oil-in-water emulsions with a high amount of

hydrocarbons (varsol, kerosene, etc.);
• pasta based on oil-in-water emulsions with reduced amounts of
stabilized hydrocarbons with polyelectrolyte products;
• watery pastes, thickened with polyelectrolyte products.
b2. printing with dyes:

Both dyeing and printing have the same classification.

of dyes for each fiber.

The vehicle that serves as transportation between the dye and the
fiber is generally a paste based on thickeners
natural (sodium alginate) and auxiliary products that
vary according to the dye and fiber, such as alkalis,
acids, anti-foaming agents, etc.

After printing, the dyes are fixed on the

fibers by vaporization or by fixation, through air
hot and then are subjected to a wash,
whose purpose is to remove the thickener and products
auxiliaries, as well as leftovers of unfixed dyes.

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 b3. methods of applying pigments or dyes:

• manual frame stamping:

It consists of the use of a flat frame, which is made up of a frame.
It is a fine gauze that can be silk, polyamide, or polyester.

On this gauze, a photosensitive emulsion is applied that will be sensitized.

according to the movie of the cartoon that you want to print.

This film can be made by hand by illustrators ('negativists'), by resources

photographic or by computer. After sensitizing the photo-sensitive emulsion,
the canvas is washed to remove the unsensitized emulsion and reinforced
with synthetic paints to acquire resistance. The stamping, for this
method, is done with tables, usually 40 to 50 m long, using-
two printers per panel.

The parts, after stamping, remain on the tables until they are partially
secas. São então retiradas e secadas de acordo com a instalação da fábrica.

• automatic frame stamping:

The frame is the same used in manual printing. The stamping is here.
carried out by a frame printing machine. In this process, the piece goes
moving as it is being printed, being subjected to drying
immediately after the machine's exit.

This process has an advantage over the previous one, that it does not have
problems regarding the pressure applied to the printing ruler (squeegee), because
this is uniform, which cannot be guaranteed manually throughout the piece.

• cylinder printing of engraved surface ('rouleaux'):

It consists of a machine that works with copper cylinders, whose
the surface is engraved with the designs (usually with a pantograph) and then,
chromed

It is much more efficient to print large lengths at the same time.

standard, as it allows for high speeds due to being continuous and not intermittent
like the stamping on frames. For short films, the cylinder stamping
the engraved surface presents the disadvantage of difficulty in replacing the
Cylinders that significantly reduce the efficiency of the machine.

• stamping by perforated cylinders:

They are cylinders made up of a metal mesh that is quite thin and light.
It can be said that it is a fusion of the previous automatic processes, as they are
recorded as in the cases of paintings, photographically.

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 They present the advantage of non-intermittent stamping, very good for
media and feature films, not presenting the difficulty in the exchange of
cylinders, this can be done relatively easily.

This process is the most recent of those already seen and came to solve a problem.
existing in framing, the fastening which is the function of a rapport
(repetition) with another. In the designated frames, certain drawings cannot be
executed due to this problem, which does not occur with the cylinders.

As a disadvantage compared to copper cylinders, one can consider

the shorter durability of the perforated cylinder and the possibility of clogging in
delicate drawings (fine lines), which also occurs with the paintings.

• some special printing techniques:

devoured

Made from mixed fabrics and consists of destroying one of the fibers in the blend,
placing itself in the folder of products that dissolve only one of the fibers. This
The technique gives a very special effect, as the fiber will only be destroyed where it is.
applied to the folder. It can also be white or colored.

- reserva:

It consists of applying a paste that will resolve the background as follows:

first, the reserve paste is applied and then it is printed, covering.
also the reserved part, because during washing the dye comes out of the reserved part
due to the dye not fixing.

transfer term:

It consists of transferring a print that is on paper to a fabric.

(up to today, good results can only be achieved with pure polyester fabrics). This
paper is printed with dispersed dyes through rotary processes of
printing or with the modern resources of the graphic industry.

The passage to the fabric is done in a special calender at a temperature

superior to the sublimation of the dye, in which the paper and the fabric, face to face,
they come into contact with a heated cylinder, transported by a blanket.

There are many possibilities for printing fabrics, depending on the

technical installations and resources available. It is evident that sometimes there is the
need to adapt some process due to the existing resources.
Therefore, it is impossible to address all work possibilities.

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Description of the processes and purposes of final treatments

All operations are performed on textile substrates, with the aim

to make it suitable or more appropriate for the purpose it is intended for. However, many
sometimes, these operations are done in order to make the product even more noble
what will be marketed.

a. chemical and physico-chemical finishes:

These two types of finishes are closely related, which is why they are
described together.

• application of fabric softener:

It can be done in threads or fabrics, either by exhaustion or continuously,
whose purpose is to give a softer touch and sometimes improve the fit of the
garments. They can also be applied to already made pieces.

• encapsulating:
It gives more stiffness or body to the fabric. It can be with starch gums,
polyvinyl alcohol, etc. Its applications are diverse: upholstery; linings;
clothing, etc.

• anti-wrinkle (wash-use)
They can be permanent (washable solids) or non-permanent. They have the
the purpose of reducing the formation of wrinkles and there are many resins for this.
end. For example: formaldehyde urea; modified formaldehyde urea; melamine; reactants;
etc. The most solid of these is the reactant. The applications are diverse: clothing
external; bedding and others.

• water repellent
Resins that do not allow the fabric to absorb water, with some action
mechanical or with prolonged immersion time. It is interesting to note that
this finish allows the passage of air. Its applications are as follows:
clothing (jackets, blouses, capes, etc.); camping (tents mainly); etc.

• waterproofing agent
Resins intended to make the fabric waterproof, not allowing the
water passage, nor with mechanical action. These resins also make the
airproof fabric. Its applications are the following: tarpaulins; awnings;
umbrellas; etc.

• anti-chama
Finishing with the purpose of preventing the spread of flames.

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 b. physical finishes.

• calendering
Improves the shine and also the feel of cotton and blends.
applications: clothing, bed linens, etc.

Other effects can be achieved in calenders with engraved rollers,

for example, that can form lists or raised designs on the fabric.

The chintz effect is also made in calenders.

• flanneling
Used to obtain fabrics with fuzzy surfaces. They can be applied
for the acquisition of cloths, to lift hairs from rugs and carpets.

These effects are achieved in flannel machines, a machine equipped with several
cylinders with needles that create energetic friction on the surface of the fabric.

• sanding
Sanding is used to obtain sanding, widely used in jeans, and is
achieved with the friction of cylinders covered with sandpaper.

• fixation by steam or hot air:

Used in synthetic fiber articles, fabrics in general, nets, stockings,
etc., for providing them with dimensional stability.

• sanforization
Pre-shrink finish, to prevent the cotton fabric from shrinking
in the subsequent washes. It is obtained in a special machine (sanforizing machine)
intended to carry out this work. The applications are the most diverse.
This finish also has a quality label; however, for it to be
fabric receiving the sanforized label must have a maximum of 1% shrinkage
residual.

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