Detailed Step by StepTutorial - Charizard
We are making a small stuffed Charizard (dragon Pokémon).
It has:
● a big head
● a body with belly
● arms and legs
● a tail with fire
● wings
This is an amigurumi plush. “Amigurumi” means a small stuffed toy made with crochet.
The final plush is about ~25 cm (10 inches) tall.
This is a digital crochet pattern. You are NOT making clothes, you are making a toy/figure.
2. MATERIALS YOU NEED
From the PDF:
● Yarn (DK or Worsted / medium weight):
○ Color A = Orange → head, body, arms, legs, tail
○ Color B = Cream / Beige → belly and inside of wings
○ Color C = Light Blue → outside of wings
○ Color D = Yellow / Red → tail flame
○ Color E = Black → eyes and nostrils embroidery
● Crochet hook: 3.0 mm – 3.5 mm
● Stuffing: polyester fiberfill
● Safety eyes: 8–10 mm
● Yarn needle
● Scissors
● Stitch marker
Tip:
Thicker yarn + bigger hook = bigger Charizard.
Thinner yarn + smaller hook = smaller Charizard.
3. IMPORTANT WORDS (ABBREVIATIONS)
These are the short codes from the pattern.
● MR = Magic Ring
Start a circle with stitches inside a loop you can pull tight.
● sc = single crochet
Basic crochet stitch. You will use this the most.
● inc = increase
Put 2 single crochet in the SAME stitch. This makes the circle bigger.
● dec = decrease
Turn 2 stitches into 1 stitch. This makes the shape smaller, it closes.
(We use “invisible decrease,” which looks cleaner.)
● ch = chain
Making a little chain of loops.
● st = stitch
One entry point / “hole” you work into.
● sl st = slip stitch
A short closing stitch.
● BLO = back loops only
Put hook only in the back half of the stitch, not both loops.
● FO = fasten off
Finish the piece, cut yarn, secure.
How to read pattern lines like:
● “(sc, inc) ×6 (18)”
It means:
Do “1 single crochet, then 1 increase” and repeat that 6 times total.
At the end you should have 18 stitches.
How to read “(12)” at end of a line:
That’s the total number of stitches you should have after that round.
4. TECHNIQUES USED
From the PDF:
A. Magic Ring
1. Wrap yarn around your finger in a loop.
2. Put hook under the loop and pull yarn through so you get a loop on your hook.
3. Chain 1 to lock it.
4. Crochet Round 1 stitches INTO that loop/ring.
5. Pull the yarn tail tight to close the hole.
Why do this?
So the start of the head/body etc. has no hole.
B. Invisible Decrease (dec)
1. Put hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the next stitch.
2. Then (without finishing) put hook in the FRONT LOOP ONLY of the next stitch after that.
3. Yarn over, pull through both loops.
4. Yarn over again, pull through last 2 loops.
This makes the shape smaller in a smooth way (no ugly bump).
C. Color Change
When you are finishing a stitch (last yarn-over), instead of pulling through with the old color, pull
through with the new color.
Then continue with the new color.
This makes clean color borders, important for belly and wings.
5. HOW TO CROCHET EACH PART
We’ll go piece by piece and I’ll slow-walk every step.
Important note for all parts:
● “Round 1” always means: do the stitches, then keep going in a circle (we usually work in
continuous rounds, not joining).
● Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round so you don’t get lost.
5A. HEAD (Color A = Orange)
Pattern:
1. MR, 6 sc (6)
2. inc ×6 (12)
3. (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
4. (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
5. (3 sc, inc) ×6 (30)
6–10. sc around (30)
➡ Insert eyes between Rounds 7–8, about 7 stitches apart.
Then:
(3 sc, dec) ×6 (24)
(2 sc, dec) ×6 (18)
(sc, dec) ×6 (12)
FO and leave long tail. Stuff firmly.
Optional: embroider nostrils / eyebrows with black.
Now I’ll explain like to a kid:
Round 1: Make a Magic Ring. Put 6 single crochet into that ring. Pull it closed. Now you have 6
stitches.
Round 2: Do “inc” in every stitch.
That means 2 single crochet in each stitch.
Now you have 12 stitches.
Round 3: Do this pattern all the way around:
● 1 single crochet in the next stitch
● then 1 increase (2 single crochet in the same stitch)
Repeat that until you go around.
Now you have 18.
Round 4: New pattern:
● 2 single crochet (one in each of the next 2 stitches)
● then 1 increase
Repeat around.
Now you have 24.
Round 5:
● 3 single crochet
● then 1 increase
Repeat around.
Now you have 30 stitches.
Rounds 6 to 10:
Just do 1 single crochet in every stitch, all around.
Don’t add, don’t remove. Always keep 30 stitches.
This makes the head “tall,” not just flat.
Now put in the safety eyes:
● Place them between Round 7 and Round 8.
● Leave about 7 stitches distance between the eyes so Charizard doesn’t look cross-eyed.
After the eyes go in, we start closing the head:
Next round:
(3 single crochet, then 1 decrease) repeat.
Now you have 24 stitches.
Next round:
(2 single crochet, then 1 decrease) repeat.
Now you have 18 stitches.
Next round:
(1 single crochet, then 1 decrease) repeat.
Now you have 12 stitches.
STOP and STUFF THE HEAD.
Put stuffing in. Make it firm so the head keeps its shape, but not exploding.
Fasten off (FO), leave a long yarn tail. You’ll sew the head later.
Optional:
With black yarn, you can stitch two tiny dots for nostrils on the front of the face and little
eyebrows over the eyes to give Charizard his angry / serious look.
5B. MUZZLE / SNOUT (Color A = Orange)
Pattern:
1. MR, 6 sc (6)
2. (sc, inc) ×3 (9)
3. (2 sc, inc) ×3 (12)
4–6. sc around (12)
FO with long tail, lightly stuff, sew to front of head.
Add small embroidered fangs using white yarn.
Kid-level version:
This is Charizard’s nose/mouth area that sticks out from the face.
Round 1: Magic Ring, 6 single crochet → 6 stitches.
Round 2: Repeat “1 single crochet, then 1 increase” three times. Now you have 9 stitches.
Round 3: Repeat “2 single crochet, then 1 increase” three times. Now you have 12 stitches.
Rounds 4, 5, 6: Just 1 single crochet in each stitch (keep 12). This makes it longer like a snout.
Now:
● Cut yarn but leave a long tail.
● Put a little stuffing inside (not too much).
● Sew this piece to the front of the head, under/between the eyes.
Then:
Use white yarn to sew (embroider) two tiny “fangs” at the bottom corners of the muzzle to make
it look like Charizard’s little teeth.
5C. BODY (Color A + Color B for belly)
Pattern:
1. MR, 6 sc (6)
2. inc ×6 (12)
3. (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
4. (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
5. (3 sc, inc) ×6 (30)
6–12. sc around (30)
Switch to Color B (cream belly), sc around (30)
Then continue plain rounds (body height)
Then:
(3 sc, dec) ×6 (24)
(2 sc, dec) ×6 (18)
(sc, dec) ×6 (12)
dec ×6 (6)
FO and stuff firmly.
Now slowly:
Round 1: Magic Ring, 6 sc → 6.
Round 2: Increase in every stitch → 12.
Round 3: [1 sc, 1 inc] repeat around → 18.
Round 4: [2 sc, 1 inc] repeat around → 24.
Round 5: [3 sc, 1 inc] repeat around → 30.
Rounds 6–12:
Just keep doing 1 single crochet in every stitch (30 each round).
This makes Charizard’s belly/body big and round.
Now:
Change yarn to Color B (the light cream color).
Crochet around with that lighter color.
This makes the lighter belly/front of Charizard.
Then we start to close the body at the top:
● (3 sc, dec) repeat around → 24 stitches.
● (2 sc, dec) repeat around → 18 stitches.
● (1 sc, dec) repeat around → 12 stitches.
● dec ×6 → 6 stitches.
Before it’s totally tiny, STUFF THE BODY.
Make it firm so Charizard can stand and not collapse.
Fasten off (FO). Leave a long tail for sewing later.
5D. LEGS (make 2) (Color A = Orange)
Pattern:
1. MR, 6 sc (6)
2. inc ×6 (12)
3. (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
4–6. sc around (18)
Then:
(sc, dec) ×6 (12)
8–10. sc around (12)
FO leaving long tail.
Stuff lightly (bottom half).
Attach near lower sides of body.
Tip: Flatten bottom slightly so Charizard can stand.
Let’s break it down:
Round 1: Magic Ring, 6 sc → 6.
Round 2: Increase in every stitch → 12.
Round 3: [1 sc, then 1 inc] repeat around → 18.
Rounds 4, 5, 6:
Just 1 single crochet in each stitch (keep 18).
This makes the big part of the foot/leg (Charizard’s chunky foot).
Now we shape the ankle smaller:
Next round: (1 sc, then 1 decrease) repeat around.
This reduces from 18 down to 12.
Rounds 8, 9, 10:
Do 1 single crochet in each stitch (keep 12) to make the top of the leg.
Fasten off, leave a long yarn tail.
Stuffing:
● Put stuffing mainly into the bottom (the foot part) so it’s solid and flat.
● Press the bottom a little with your fingers so it’s flat.
That flat bottom helps Charizard stand without falling.
● The top of the leg should not be rock-hard, so you can sew it to the body easily.
Make TWO legs.
5E. ARMS (make 2) (Color A = Orange)
Pattern:
1. MR, 6 sc (6)
2. (sc, inc) ×3 (9)
3–7. sc around (9)
Then:
(sc, dec) ×3 (6)
FO leaving long tail.
Stuff lightly.
Sew to upper sides of body.
Add small white claws with embroidery.
Explain:
Round 1: Magic Ring, 6 sc → 6.
Round 2: Do [1 sc, then 1 inc], repeat that 3 times → 9 stitches.
Rounds 3, 4, 5, 6, 7:
Just 1 sc in each stitch (keep 9).
This makes the arm tube.
Then we make the wrist smaller:
Do (1 sc, then 1 decrease) repeat 3 times.
Now you have 6 stitches.
Fasten off, leave tail for sewing.
Stuffing:
Only a tiny bit of stuffing in the “hand” area.
Do not overstuff the arm. You want the arm to still bend/pose.
Sew arms high on the body, near the chest.
Claws:
Use white yarn and stitch 3 tiny “claw lines” at the tip of each arm.
Make TWO arms.
5F. TAIL (Color A → Color D flame)
Pattern:
1. MR, 6 sc (6)
2. (sc, inc) ×3 (9)
3–10. sc around (9)
Switch to Color D (red/yellow for fire).
Then:
ch 4
sl st in 2nd ch from hook
sc in next ch
hdc in next ch
sl st back into tail
Repeat that “flame tongue” step 2 more times (so total 3 flame shapes).
FO leaving long tail.
Stuff tail lightly, sew to back of body.
Explain like to a kid:
Tail base:
● Round 1: Magic Ring, 6 sc → 6
● Round 2: (1 sc, then 1 inc) repeat 3 times → 9
● Rounds 3–10: 1 sc in every stitch around, keep 9 stitches.
That makes a long tail tube.
Now switch to Flame Color (Color D, red/yellow).
The fire at the tip:
● Chain 4.
● Slip stitch in the 2nd chain from the hook.
● Single crochet in the next chain.
● Half double crochet (hdc) in the last chain.
● Slip stitch back into the tail to attach that flame tongue.
Do that same little flame shape 3 times around the tip so it looks like fire.
Stuff the tail a little so it’s not flat.
Sew the tail to Charizard’s lower back/butt so it points up and back.
5G. WINGS (make 2)
Inner (Color B = Cream) + Outer (Color C = Light Blue)
Pattern:
Inner Wing (cream):
1. ch 8
2. sc into 2nd chain from hook, then sc across → 7 stitches
3. ch 1, turn, sc across, inc at end → 8
4. ch 1, turn, sc 7, inc at end → 9
Repeat this “turn, sc across, inc at the end” until you reach 13 stitches total.
FO.
Outer Wing (blue):
Do the same idea but start with ch 10 instead of ch 8 to make it a little bigger.
FO.
Then:
Place the cream (inner wing) on top of the blue (outer wing) and sew them together like two
layers.
Finally:
Sew one finished wing on each side of Charizard’s back, angled out like he’s ready to fly.
Explain simply:
● You’re basically crocheting a triangle/wing shape by making a chain and then adding one
stitch at the end of each row so it slowly gets bigger.
● The blue piece is bigger.
● The cream piece sits on top like the “inside” of the wing.
● You sew cream onto blue, then sew the whole wing to the back of the body.
Make two wings: left wing and right wing.
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6. ASSEMBLY (PUTTING IT TOGETHER)
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From the PDF:
Order matters:
1. Sew the HEAD onto the top of the BODY.
Use the long yarn tail. Go around and pull tight so it’s secure.
2. Sew the MUZZLE to the front of the head.
Add nostrils (black yarn) and little white fangs.
3. Sew the ARMS to the upper sides of the body (like shoulders / chest area).
4. Sew the LEGS to the lower sides/bottom of the body.
Press the bottoms slightly flat so he can stand.
5. Sew the TAIL to the back of the body so it points slightly up and back, with the flame
showing.
6. Sew the WINGS on Charizard’s back, left and right, angled outward.
7. With black yarn (Color E), embroider small details:
○ Eyebrows (angry Charizard look)
○ Nostrils
○ Little mouth lines if you want
Check balance:
Stand him up on a table.
If he falls forward or back, adjust how the legs are sewn until he stands better.
7. FINISHING TOUCHES
From the PDF:
● Lightly brush the cheeks with a tiny bit of red or pink pastel to give “blush.”
● You can shape wings to stay open. The PDF says you can even use a little wire inside
the wings if you want them to stay spread (this is optional and only for display toys, not
baby toys).
● You can bend the tail upwards a little to look more “alive,” like Charizard is ready to
battle.
This is how you make it look amazing in photos.
8. SAFETY NOTES
Very important if you’re making this for a child.
● Safety eyes (plastic) are NOT safe for children under 3 years old.
For babies/small kids: Do not use safety eyes. Instead, sew the eyes with black yarn.
● When you attach arms, legs, head, tail, wings:
Sew them on very strong. Go around more than once.
You don’t want any piece to come off and be swallowed.
● Cleaning:
This toy should NOT go in the washing machine.
You should only wipe it gently with a damp cloth.
9. ABOUT THIS PATTERN
From the PDF: this is a digital crochet pattern (PDF). You are NOT buying a physical plush.
You are allowed to sell the finished Charizard you make by hand.
So:
● You can make it.
● You can sell the finished toy.
● Please do not resell or share the pattern file itself.
QUICK BABY VERSION (super simple summary)
1. Crochet:
○ Head
○ Muzzle
○ Body
○ Arms (2)
○ Legs (2)
○ Tail with flame
○ Wings (2)
2. Put eyes in the head while it’s still open.
3. Stuff everything with filling.
4. Sew all parts together:
Head → Body → Arms → Legs → Tail → Wings → Muzzle
5. Add nose, eyebrows, claws, flame details.
Now you have your own handmade Charizard. 🐉🔥🧶
That’s the entire pattern explained step by step.