BASIC PRINCIPLES OF BLEACHING

Basic Principles of Bleaching

Surely you have seen more than one person with partially or completely colored hair.
extra light. This is not easy to achieve with traditional oxidation dye, as it is
It is necessary to use another chemical formula to help raise levels higher than those.
that a normal oxidizer would elevate, that is, to decolorize the melanotic pigment to its highest level
high
Bleach is the most widely used chemical compound in beauty salons, its
presentation is varied, it can come in a tube like a dye, in oil, pills
the octopus. In any case, extreme care will need to be taken in its use since
it can immediately destroy the hair.
Bleach products are those capable of removing melanin pigments.
that exist in the hair, whether granular or diffuse.

TYPES OF DYES
HYDROGEN PEROXIDE (H2O2)
In volumes from 20 to 20, hydrogen peroxide alone is a bleaching agent, albeit to a degree.
much less. Sometimes hydrogen peroxide can be purchased at 110 volumes and of
there they are obtaining the necessary volumes, but it is not advisable, as it results
more practical and easy to use the volumes that are commercially sold already prepared
how they are 10, 20, 30, 40 (60) volumes.

Oxidizing Tablets
These are presented in the form of tablets and are composed of chemical salts called
per sales, which deplete oxygen.

OXIDIZING CREAMS
They are presented in pill form and are composed of chemical salts called
persales, which release oxygen.

OXIDIZING CREAMS
These are prepared with incorporated softeners, they also release oxygen and are
made in emulsion or oil.

OXIDANT BAGS
They are based on persulfate oxidizing powders that come in hermetically sealed bags.
closed. For its preparation, a specific number of volumes was considered and
mix with hot water.

bleaching oils
They are made with protective gellable oils with a variable proportion of
ammonia and it is necessary to mix them with hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), to which the mixture forms
a gel.
BLEACHING POWDERS
As its name indicates, they are oxidizing powders based on persalts and it is the most
used in most beauty salons.

HOW THEY ACT

When applying the bleach to the hair, it begins to gradually remove if there are any
granular pigments and then the diffuse ones, in such a way that they change the
granular pigment in diffuse form and always leaving a reddish hue at first.
As the action of the bleach progresses, the pigments disappear.
diffused and at the same time the reddish tones.
Due to the presence of granular pigment, dark hair is more difficult to
decoloration when there is only diffuse pigmentation in light hair. Virgin hair is
easier to bleach than dyed hair, especially if it is dark, and in that case it cannot be
I would call it decolorization, rather than deoxidation or extraction. The bleaching products are
oxidants, in turn, oxidants are compounds that under certain conditions release
oxygen
The bleach is mixed with oxidizer (H2O2), either with 10, 20, or 30 volumes, in the
In most cases, it is mixed with 20 or 30 volumes. The bleach comes with a catalyst.
the accelerator based on peroxides or ammonia.
The strength of the bleach depends on the oxygen released and is expressed in levels or tones.
obtained in hair clarification. The speed at which it acts depends on the amount
of ammonia or containing persalts.
A catalyst is a substance that in small amounts accelerates the chemical reaction without
that it decomposes. The presence of the catalyst (ammonia, persalts) acts without
participate in the chemical reaction. Without their presence, chemical reactions would occur
very slowly. The chemical reaction that occurs with a catalyst is called catalysis.
In order for the bleaching to take place, an oxidizer (H2O2) is necessary, a
catalyst (ammonia, peroxides) and a reducer (hair). A reducer has the property
to take oxygen while the oxidizing agent releases it. A reducing agent is a substance capable of
to take oxygen from another or to fix hydrogen in it when it decomposes.
An oxidizer takes oxygen. A reducer takes oxygen or gives hydrogen.

STAGES OF BLEACHING
When bleaching hair, it is necessary to know to what level of lightening it is.
wants to reach, based on the formula of the dye that is going to be applied, since if it is a hair
dark level 3 and it is desired to obtain a necessary bleaching level.
A color tone 4/6 that is a medium reddish brown will not look the same if applied to a
dark hair directly than in hair that has been previously bleached up to
a reddish level where the red reflection will stand out the most.
The way this discoloration occurs is by degrading the color of the darker shade.
to the clearest, that is, the bleach acts first leaving the hair reddish before
by yellow and ending in pale yellow, such that the discoloration is between
the red and the very light yellow leaving a wide range of shades between one and the other, which
they will always be warm tones.
Image of bleaching stages

The bleaching depends on whether the hair is:

Natural hair
Dyed hair
Dark hair
Light hair
Porosity of hair
Exposure time
Product used
At the time of bleaching, it is necessary to consider the degree or level of bleaching that is
wants to achieve, since each level is specific for applying different shades and
reflections that exist. To do this, it is important to keep in mind the tone of the dye that is going to
apply after bleaching.

The levels of decolorization are used to apply preferably light tones and when
You want to achieve a tone with an exact reflection. What in a normal application case
direct dye on virgin hair would not work since the dye is applied on a
dark base that will mix with the dye, resulting in a tone that approaches the
applied, but in most cases it will not be the exact tone. If you want to obtain
light blonde tones will require bleaching.
EXPOSURE TIMES
The exposure time of the hair bleach depends on the level of lightening that
one desires in relation to the state of the hair. As bleaching begins to attack the
pigmentation that has the most coloring (granular), if it stops at that moment
achieve a reddish tone. If a lighter tone is desired, it is necessary to prolong
the exposure time of the bleach. The standard time is usually:
On strong and resistant hair for 40 to 60 minutes
On thin and fine hair for 5 to 30 minutes
On moderately porous hair, 15 to 35 minutes
On porous hair, from 5 to 15 minutes.

FORMULATIONS
The following are the formulations depending on the levels of decolorization that are
they wish to employ:

To achieve soft lightening, from 1 to 2 levels:

Aceite decolorante+ agua oxigenada (H2O2) de 20 volúmenes.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions. )
To achieve medium decolorations, from 2 to 5 levels
Bleaching oil + 30-volume hydrogen peroxide (H2O2).
To achieve strong bleaching, maximum level and for white highlights:
Bleaching powder + hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) of 20 or 30 volumes
Formula: follow the manufacturer's instructions )

Optionally, for bleaching in hair, gray hair, which is also called

clarification consists of lightening hair with more than 70% gray to try to
uniform the color in the non-gray hair.
When applying bleaching to any hair, it is necessary to take into account that at a level
There is more heat in the scalp than in the rest of the hair due to blood supply.
blood-related, which means that bleaching products have a faster reaction. In the
the moment to apply them should be done first either in the middle or tips, or tips and
means and, always in the end, the growths will have to be lacking approximately
15 minutes to finish the processing time of the bleach according to the stage that
one wants to achieve. Additionally, it is important to consider the porosity of the hair.

POINTS OF ANALYSIS
HAIR DIAGNOSIS FOR DYE
In this section, I present to you each of those points that need to be taken into account for
properly carry out a diagnosis and thus proceed to execute the technique
suitable for each requirement. As seen in the previous sections, the diagnosis is
a comprehensive work tool that you must carry out before any service
colored chemical.
PERSONALITY AND CHARACTER
As you start working with people, you will realize that each one of them
perceives things in a different way, so what one likes, another does not.
another, and what one person sees as good, another sees as bad. When stating the dye color, you must take
consider whether the person's personality is positive, that is, that they take things in a
In a practical and simple way, therefore, their color technique should be the same.
If the personality is negative, that is, if it is pessimistic and everything bothers them, the technique of
the color should be soft and have an attractive point, whether in the fringe, in the temples, or in the
cutting tips to minimize its negative state.
If your personality is average or neutral, it is considered that a person can embody different
color techniques. These types of people have no problem using the color technique
what do you recommend.
Regardless of their personality, there is another factor to consider. When the
a person is introverted, which is when they behave very seriously and talk very little,
generally their appearance is shy. In this case the color technique should not be
sophisticated, as they would not tolerate it. In extroverted people, a very strong character is seen.
open, they usually talk a lot and can have a convoluted color technique or
that is fashionable, even in very avant-garde colors and techniques.

AGE
When a color technique is finally decided upon, the time factor is very important, as
that a mature person, around 50 years old, should not be allowed to carry a
very elaborate or trendy color technique. A middle-aged person around
35 years old, cannot have hair too dark. And very young people, because of the
state in which they find themselves, that is, of carefree, without personal responsibilities of
Adults are allowed to wear any colored accessory, and the more fashionable it is, the better.
it doesn't matter that they have to change the effect every time a color is required, this
they have not yet found their own personality.
Moderately mature people, if their lifestyle allows them to have an effect of
current fashion color, is allowed, as long as they are aware of the effect that this
will lead to their lives.

SKIN COLOR AND EYE COLOR

Nature is so wise that having a certain skin color will always go
harmonized with the color of eyes and hair, but for people who like
changes are necessary to relate it based on your natural skin and eye color. Therefore, each
that when you choose or ask for a certain color you should take this factor into account
so that the person reflects their true personality. In box 12, I present some
options that will allow you to make an appropriate selection based on physical characteristics
from the person.
DYE COLOR THAT EXISTS
At the time of making the diagnosis, it is important to take into account the artificial color.
what it brings, since a dye is generally applied directly to virgin hair not
It could be applied in the same way on dyed hair, as there is a rule.
where a dye cannot be applied over another dye, because this will cause greater
dye concentration and the result would not be what is expected.
If it is about hair that has natural color growth of approximately
two to three centimeters and the rest of the hair is dyed, it is necessary to make a formula
for growths and another for the ends and tips. Hair dyed with a dark shade
it can never be dyed with a light tone and a color cleansing will be necessary,
extraction or deoxidation so that the desired light tone can be achieved.

LONGITUDE
When designing the formula, once the color to be applied has been chosen, it is important to take into account the
the length of the client's hair, as it is not the same to prepare a formula for hair
shorter than long hair. A short hair generally only requires 30
at 45 grams and, starting from this, a long hair, depending on the amount of hair,
you can use between 60 to 90 grams, and long hair, depending on the amount of
hair, you can use between 90 to 150 grams. When preparing the formula, it is important that
decide what length of hair the client has to avoid wasting the dye mixture, already
that once prepared, it can only be used once in no more than 20 time
minutes.
TEXTURE
The texture is directly related to the amount of hair, since usually
on a head with fine hair there is a greater amount of hair than on a head with
thick hair. When making the formulation, you should consider the amount of hair,
to prepare only the amount needed.

POROSITY
This is a basic point to consider. Virgin hair tends to take and absorb.
the color of an even shape due to the porosity being almost nil; a dyed hair
the permanent one. Depending on its porosity, it can take and absorb the color
uniformly or it can absorb it unevenly, resulting in the effect
spotted
For dark dyed hair, a light, pure tone should not be applied.
dark tone on dyed light hair. It is very easy on permed hair.
achieve almost the entire color range, since the hair is porous and the effect of the
Wavy solutions have helped to gently bleach the natural pigment of the
hair and it is easy to apply light shades on permed hair.

Bleached hair generally has the highest porosity because it has been
subjected already to decolorations where the natural pigments have already been extracted. Thus,
A clear natural tone is very easy to apply. If they are with warm highlights, one must take into account
Caution, and with a cold reflection (purples, greens, and blues) there may be a greater
focus on the means and tips that generally hold the most
porosity within the hair itself. Remember that shades with cool reflections tend to
darkening and warm-toned hues tend to lighten.

Natural Hair Color

To make the formula it is necessary to take into account the natural color of the hair, since
Starting from this, the technique to be used can be defined, taking into account the oxidizing agent.
(H2O2), the oxidizer of up to 40 volumes, can lighten 4 levels/shades. Therefore,
so, if you need to clarify more than 4 levels, you should use other techniques such as
being pre-bleaching and bleaching and with which you can raise up to the levels that
needs. Please note that at a level of 1 to 3 it is not recommended to apply tones with
very clear levels, 7, 8, 9 or 10, as these would not work.

CANAS
When applying dyes, you will find in different people regardless of their age a
determined percentage of gray hairs. These are often not well received by the
people want to cover them as they represent maturity, and in some cases they make
people appear older. If it is a percentage, the percentage of gray hair is less than
30%, the dye should be applied in its classic formula; if it is greater, it is necessary to take in
count the special formulations that have been made to solve the problem.
Gray hairs are those that do not possess granular or diffuse pigmentation and by
In general, it is very easy to dye them. However, some are crystalline and are more
reluctant to dye. In the first case, the application of the dyes is as it would be done on hair.
virgin, in the second it may be necessary to apply a pre-conditioning before dyeing.
Both should be done based on the percentage of gray hair, which ranges from 10% to the
100% gray hair, see the following chart.

In the above table, you can see that in the quantity of natural color and in the quantity of color
with reflection appear quantities of 1, ¼, ½, and ¾. This means it is the amount of
product of the dye that you must mix. At an international level, any bottle or tube of
Ink, regardless of its quantity in grams/milliliters and ounces, will always be divided into four.
parts, that is, two halves (½, ½) or, four quarters (¼, ¼, ¼, ¼). When mixing
any amount of dye in any of its presentations you must take this into account
account.
The higher the percentage of gray hair (more than 50%), the fewer low tones the hair will have.
during your clarification, in such a way that when making your mixture you should apply less
number of correctors for low tones. The following formulas are recommended for
each case

More than 30% gray hair

Formula l
Tono deseado: 40 gramos + tono natural al mismo nivel del tono deseado: 20 gramos
+ H2O 2 (1 +1)
Formula 2
Desired tone: 30 grams + natural tone at the same level as the desired tone: 30 grams
+ H2O2 (1 + 1)
Desired hair color
Once the majority of the factors described here are determined, it will be necessary to locate in
what level the desired tone is at. This helps to determine the volumes of
oxidizing agent (H2O2) that is required, whether it is 10, 20, 30, or 40 volumes.
One must start from the customer's natural level, that is, if they have a level 4 and the desired level is
7, just count the number of levels between level 4 and level 7.
What would be 3 levels, so it is necessary to clarify 3 levels and the oxidizer (H2O2) that
This clarification would be for the 30 volumes. Thus, the oxidizing agent to be used in that
The formula would be 30 volumes. This reasoning must be used to find the ...
necessary volumes for each case.

TECHNICAL SHEET
To establish a diagnosis for a dye and bleaching it is necessary to have a
guide. It is not about setting rules but rather a criterion of organization that will result in
greater agility, minimal errors, and efficiency.
The technical data sheet is created with the aim of having the largest amount of data.
possible clients to address and, for organization and agility, to seek the services that
You have done it before. Try to gather a series of questions or data, written in
in a clear manner, so that you have the basic and essential information and write it down in your
sheets to achieve greater efficiency in your work and keep track of the services that
appliques.