instructables

Workmate Router Table Fix

by FrontierShed

Following an idea I saw on the web I created a Router solid bomb proof mount for attaching DIY router table
Table that clamped into my Workmate a few years to Workmate.
ago. The table served me well, however after
requisitioning my old Workmate to the welding shop I At the same time I am taking the opportunity to
then discovered that the jaws on my other Workmate change out the old router base insert that I made out
wouldn't open up enough to accommodate my Router of 1/4" plywood with a new one I recently purchased.
Table, thus the reason for this instructable; design a

[Link]

Workmate Router Table Fix: Page 1

Step 1: What I Am Starting With...

It's quite likely that you won't be in the same design.

predicament as me; modifying an existing router table
to fit your Workmate and changing out a router insert Original Router Table Specifics
plate but perhaps you are considering building your
own router table from scratch. For that reason let me The table is made from 3/4" pre-finished birch
provide a few particulars regarding my original plywood cut to 33"w x 22"d I mounted a 3/4" panel on

the underside with adjustment screws to level my the workmate clamp. Then use the anchoring method
original 1/4" insert plate although I don't recommend described in this instructable. I acquired a Kreg
that method any longer. Get a commercial Router Precision Router Table Fence ITEM#: PRS1015 for
insert base and recess it as I did in this instructable. I use in my setup. I also made my own feather board
used ROK's 12" x 9" plate. Mount a 4" to 6" wide from a piece of bamboo flooring, pictured in the
piece of 3/4" plywood across the width on the Instructable content.
underside of the table about 6" from the edge facing

Workmate Router Table Fix: Page 2

Step 2: Tools and Materials Required.

Tools: Forstner or Brad Point bit (3/8")

Router Square

Tape measure Tape measure

Handheld grinder with zip disc and grinding disk (or Bar clamps
hacksaw and file)
Glue
Drill
Hammer and 1-1/2" finishing nails or Brad nailer with
Countersink bit (1/8") 1-1/2" brads

Drill bit (1/8", 3/16") Green painter's tape

Materials: Ten 1-1/4" flat head wood screws

Router Four #8 x 2" flat head wood screws

Workmate 400 Two #14 x 2" pan head screws

ROK 12" x 9" router insert plate or equiv. Four #10 x 1-1/2" flat head wood screws

3/4" x 2" x 29" strip of plywood This project could be accomplished in 1 day or
perhaps two.
Two 1"h x 2"w x 3"l wood blocks (or laminate 2
pieces of 1/2" together)Two #14 x 2" pan head
screws

Workmate Router Table Fix: Page 3

Step 3: Preparing the Underside of the Old Router Table to Fit the Workmate Frame

Since the jaws on the Workmate wouldn't open up slots of the Workmate frame) on underside of router
enough to accommodate the Router Table I decided table.
to design a locking system that didn't require the
Workmates removable jaw to be used. Instead I Mount a strip of 3/4" plywood (about 2" x 29") on the
locked the table directly to the existing slots on the underside of the router table directly over marked
metal frame of the Workmate. Removing the locations of anchor slots using 1-1/4" wood screws
detachable Workmate clamp offered a lot more (1-3/4" gap minus this 3/4" strip reduces the gap to 1"
below-table space to accommodate and access the now).
router (think down the road dust collection).
Mount a 1" thick block (I used 2 pieces of 1/2"
With the front of the router table sitting on the plywood 2" x 3" laminated together) to the 3/4" strip
adjustable clamp of the Workmate I measured 1-3/4" directly above the end slots on either side of the
gap from the back underside of the router table to the Workmate frame using 2" wood screws (2 blocks
top of the Workmates metal frame. total).

Steps involved: Position the router table on the Workmate in its

desired location and then trace the furthest rear slot
Remove the Workmate's detachable clamping jaw of the metal Workmate frame onto the underside of
and open the adjustable clamping jaw to full open the two 1" blocks.
position.
Flip the router table over again and pre-drill a 1/8"
Position the router table on the Workmate in its hole near the back edge of each of your previously
desired location. Note the clearance from the marked 1" blocks.
clamping jaw surface to the metal frame surface
(about 1-3/4" in my case), hence the next 3 steps to Insert a #14 x 2" pan head screw in each pre-drilled
build up the difference. block leaving about 1/16" clearance. This clearance
should allow the head of the screw to lock into the
From the fully open jaw position advance the front of the metal slot on the top of the Workmate -
Workmate clamp about 1" to 1-1/2" in the closed adjust clearance accordingly.
direction. Mark location of 2 anchor slots (furthest end

Test the fit; place the router table right side up on the with the rear slots on the Workmate and tighten the
Workmate such that the two #14 screw heads engage adjustable clamp on the Workmate.

Workmate Router Table Fix: Page 4

Workmate Router Table Fix: Page 5
Step 4: Optional Front Workmate Clamp Groove Catch

After the screws were nicely engaged with the rear 1-1/2" wood screws, leaving them stick out about
slots on the Workmate frame, I found that the front 1/2".
edge of the router table could be lifted away from the
front clamping jaw with very little effort. My Then use a zip disk on a handheld grinder to cut the
observations detected that the groove in the front screws off leaving about 1/4" of stud. Then use a
clamping jaw of the Workmate left very little area for handheld grinder with a grinder disk to slightly round
effective clamping. To remedy this I added 4 studs the studs to fit gently into the groove on the
into the underside front edge of the router table that Workmates front clamping jaw.
engaged with the groove on the Workmates front
clamping jaw. Reposition the router table onto the workmate and
test the front stud engagement with the groove in the
Steps involved: Workmates front clamping jaw. If all went well you will
now have a very solidly attached router table
On the underside front edge of the router table, mark mounted on your Workmate.
the location of the groove - this is where the studs will
be located. Congratulations the first phase is complete!

To make studs, simply pre-drill and insert four #10 x

Workmate Router Table Fix: Page 6

Step 5: Installing the New Router Base Insert.

In my case I was replacing a homemade router base recess to the same depth as the insert thickness (1/4"
insert (made from 1/4" plywood) with a commercially in my case) for a perfectly flush installation.
purchased ROK insert. The ROK was slightly wider
than my previous insert and slightly shorter. It was Use the router with the factory base installed and a
easy to make the cutout wider however the gap at the suitable router bit (I used a 5/8" straight cutter)
back edge meant I had to insert a filler and then route inserted to make the perimeter cuts. Clamp a guide
the drop edge for the new insert. onto the table (you can use a router fence if available
for the left to right cuts) to guide your router along the
If you're following this instructable and creating your traced lines - remember only go as deep as the insert
own table as you go then your process will be simpler thickness; I find it best to creap up to the desired
but the insert placement and routing steps will be depth making finite adjustements as I go to avoid
similar. going too far.

Note for clarification: Up to this point I have used Test the fit of the new insert into the recessed
'Front' to refer to the side of the Workmate with the opening.
cranking handles, and subsequently the edge of the
router table that faced that side. As a router table Now measure the resulting gap at the back of the
now, however I prefer to work from the opposite side insert cutout and create a filler 1/4" deeper than the
so the Workmate cranking handles and lower step measured gap. Glue, clamp and nail (brad) the filler
are not impeding access to the table' therefore from strip into place being certain to maintain a perfectly
this point forward 'Front' will mean the side we'll work flush surface at the table top. Note: be mindful to
at the router table from (side opposite from the keep brads and nails further than 1/4" below the
cranks). surface or you might nick them with the router in
next step.
Steps involved:
Once the glue is dry, place the insert into position on
Square up the new insert with the existing hole the router table and trace the outline for the front
positioned centered left to right and back from the cutout. Set up the router fence again and route a
front edge of the opening about 1/4", leaving the recess into the newly added filler strip.
resulting gap toward the rear of the table. Trace the
outline of the new insert onto the router table top. Test the insert for fit into the router table.
Note that the new opening will be routed with a

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Workmate Router Table Fix: Page 8
Step 6: Mount the Insert Onto Your Router.

Remove the factory base from your router and place it well as the depth of the head. Select a properly sized
on the top of your new router insert plate. Mark the forstner or brad point bit (or equivalent) and drill the
position of the attachment holes onto the new insert. holes only to the depth of the screw head (I used a
3/8" forstner bit). Then select a drill bit suitable for
Tip - the hard synthetic material of the new insert may completing the clearance holes for the screws and
not mark easily with a pencil so place small pieces of finish drilling the holes (I used 3/16" bit).
painter's tape beneath the holes then mark with pen,
pencil or other marker. You can now mount the insert plate on your router
and fit it into your finished Router Table.
Note that the screws need to be countersunk so they
are flush or slightly recessed below the surface of the Congratulations, you now have a fully functional
insert. router table firmly mounted to your workmate!

Measure the diameter of the factory screw head as

Workmate Router Table Fix: Page 9

Step 7: Conclusion

I hope you found this instructable helpful. Being as dust collection ports, etc.
this was a FIX for my existing situation the entire
process might not apply to all followers, but I hope I genuinely look forward to your comments and
you found inspiration to adapt any useful concepts feedback.
into your own projects.
This Instructable is entered in the FIX IT contest, I
Specifically I think the biggest Aha for me is realizing appreciate your support and thanks in advance for
how easy it is to fixture to the metal frame of the your vote!
Workmate; hence I can see myself adapting my
planer, sander, scroll saw, etc. Removing the Kent at the FrontierShed
detachable clamp offers a lot more room to
accomodate below-table equipment including router,

Workmate Router Table Fix: Page 10